Graduation of FFR #8692 20th Anniversary MK4 #9 of 20

[Paul Mischenko]

Hi Guys,

Finally after a 4 year build its time to graduate #8692, I'm # 9 of 20 from the 20th Anniversary MK4 kit. Wanted to thank everyone who takes the time to post ideas and their build threads to this forum. Really was a huge help during my build.
I wanted to give a special thanks to Edward b (Paul Borrow) who's build log was my go to during my entire build not to mention all the help he provided along the way with my hundreds of questions. I also wanted to thank Tony Zullo from FFR, Tony was also a go to resource helping me along the way. Thanks so much guys for all your help.

Details of the build:

Kit purchased Aug 2015, completed July 2019

Options/Modifications:

Custom Stainless-Steel Brake and Fuel lines
All uncoated Aluminum Panels powder coated Tiger Drylac Glimmer to match frame
FF Metal - Trunk Battery Box
FF Metal - .090” FireWall
FF Metal - .060” Transmission Tunnel Top
CNC Triple Brake & Clutch Reservoirs
Breeze Fan Shroud powder coated Tiger Drylac Glimmer to match frame
Breeze Aero locking fuel cap
Breeze stainless steel hood prop rod kit
Breeze billet aluminum side-view mirrors – driver & passenger
Breeze engine compartment battery mounting kit – powder coated Tiger Drylac Glimmer
Breeze radiator cowl cover – powder coated Tiger Drylac Glimmer to match frame
Tangent Technologies Blind Roll Bar Kits
Lodestone Billet Work polished brake and power steering hose clamps
Moreland Hose custom stainless-steel fuel hoses
Watson Streetworks Billet Dash LED indicator lights
Gas N polished stainless-steel side pipes & 4 into 4 stainless steel headers
Drummer Mike mirror polished stainless-steel side pipe heat shields
Herb Frazer custom interior leather matched door panels
Fortes Mechanical Throttle Linkage
Acton Cobra Custom FFR Aluminum Dash with Custom Glovebox
Dark Water Customs rear mirror bracket
Dark Water Aluminum Door Sills – Mirror Polished
Eddie Marine polished dash grab handle
Whitby Motors stainless steel windshield posts
********** Front Bumper Grommets
********** Wiper Arms
********** Cobra Nose & Deck Emblems
********** Shifter Handle 427 T5
Lucas Switches
Replica Parts under-dash filler panel
Replica Parts Seat Belt Trim plates
Replica Parts Russ Thompson Turn Signal Bezel
Replica Parts Billet aluminum windshield post trim plates
Replica Parts Roadster Firewall support
Replica Parts Shifter Trim Ring
Fortes hydraulic clutch kit
SuperBright Tail Light LED’s
Metco Motorsport driveshaft safety loop – Powder Coated Tiger Drylac Glimmer to match frame
Hudson Valley Interiors – leather work – Dash/Transmission covering, carpet binding, shifter & e-brake boots. Transmission cover and shifter boot stitching Navy Blue to match body color.
Twisted Shifter – 2” chrome shifter knob
Billet Badges – Custom Steering Wheel Hub Badge
Boig Radiator Tubes
Jet Hot - Silver Polish Ceramic coating: stainless steel headers & Boig radiator tubes
Jegs mirror polished stainless steel 52 oz radiator overflow canister
Triple Chrome Plating: hood hinges and brackets, door hinges, trunk brackets
Factory Five Trunk Strut Kit – mirror polished
Factory Five Wind Wings Kit
Factory Five Roll Bar Trim Rings and Grommets
Factory Five Sun Visors
Factory Five Vintage Wiper Kit
Factory Five Trunk Carpet Kit
Factory Five Passenger Roll Bar
Russ Thompson Turn Signal System
Russ Thompson FFR Throttle Pedal
Russ Thompson Dead Pedal
Russ Thompson Trunk Drop Box
Custom Stainless Steel Brake Duct & Oil Cooler covers
Custom Stainless Steel Radiator Grill
Painless Classic Braid
XPEL paint protection – rear wheel well, bottom from wheel well, bottom front spoiler




Drivetrain:
Roush 427 SR 351W polished, Dyno 516 HP, 527 ft lbs. torque at flywheel
351 W block, valve covers, air filter, MSD box & coil all painted to match body
Tremec TKO 600 5-speed with upgraded syncros, 0.64 final drive
Quicktime Bellhousing
McLeod billet steel flywheel
McLeod Super Street Pro Clutch


Interior:
Custom Speedhut instruments with GPS speedometer
Custom Competition dash covered in leather
JL Audio hidden stereo w Bluetooth receiver
Removable transmission cover with matching leather covering w dark blue (body match) stitching
Custom Billet Badges steering wheel hub badge
Matching leather door panels, dash, transmission cover, shifter boot, e-brake boot and carpet binding
Cockpit coated with Lizard Skin Sound and Heat Insulation

Body:
Bodywork and paint by Ron Randal Metalmorphous
Color is a Midnight Metallic Blue – white stripe is a match of the white engine panels in our 20th Anniversary Kit
Show quality paint
3m undercoating
Front and Rear Elephant ears removable and clear undercoated


Front Suspension:
FFR 2-piece spindles and LCA’s
Koni 8212 double adjustable coilovers
Power Steering with custom Jones racing Pump – painted to match body – canister polished
Swaybar



Rear Suspension:
IRS with 2015 Mustang differential, limited slip, 3.55 ratio, modified IRS knuckles and hubs.
FFR UCA’s and LCA’s
Koni 8212 double adjustable coilovers
Driveshaft Shop driveshaft and CV axles
Swaybar
Driveshaft Loop – Powder coated to match frame
A-Frame Transmission support powder coated to match frame

Brakes:
Willwood 6 piston 12.88 dia front, 4 piston 12.88 dia rear, separate parking brake caliper

Wheels & Tires
FFR Hildebrand style 18x9, 18x11 5-lug
245/40 front, 315/30 rear, BF Goodrich Rival S

[Paul Mischenko]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111407&d=1564324538

[Paul Mischenko]

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[Paul Mischenko]

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[Paul Mischenko]

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[GoDadGo]

Congratulations!

Very Nicely Done!

[Paul Mischenko]

Ride height is a little high, will adjust once the car is driven a bit and settles. Hope to get plates by Tuesday then its the first proper drive!

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks Steve. Cheers

[Mick40]

Beautiful, nice job!

[65 Cobra Dude]

Awesome job ��!

Henry

[Straversi]

Congratulations! That’s a fantastic build. I like the chrome hinges. Didn’t think I’ve seen that before. All of your personal touches are spot on.
-Steve

[Vspeeds]

Beautiful. Congratulations

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks guys, appreciate all the kind words! Cheers

[BadAsp427]

Congratulations... Looks fantastic.

[Garry Bopp]

That's a gorgeous car. Well done, Paul!

Garry

[David Williamson]

you did an awsome job, looks great.
David W

[Corsair343]

Beautiful job

[mburger]

Awesome build!
I fly into HPN every month for work and would love to see it in person if you’re open to that.

[karlos]

Very, very nicely done. Congratulations on a beautiful build!

-Karl

[SSNK4US]

WOW!!! Beautiful job Paul!!! Very nicely done. Thanks for sharing!

Kurt

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well done! Now go enjoy it :)

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Looks spectacular. Really like the stripes on the underside of the hood and trunk lid! Very cool touch. Hope you enjoy many happy miles.

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks again guys for all the comments of encouragement. As this forum is amazing for ideas, will try and further update the thread with some of the things I did which were a little different. mburger, of course, we're about 30 min away from HPN on Hudson side.

[KDubU]

Congrats! She is a beauty. Those hood hinges are a nice touch and that engine, what a monster. Hope you have spare tires.

[Paul Mischenko]

While I probably won't be listening to it much, as the engine sound is so much better. I had decided early on to to install a stereo but wanted to make sure it was as hidden as possible and didn't take away anything for the car. I decided on an JL Audio system. I decided to use the drop battery box for the amp and crossovers, I installed 2 way JL speakers between the seats. Grills are pretty much all black and blend into the carpet. I have an under-dash panel where I mounted the Bluetooth receiver and there is also a volume control knob for the amp. When you look at the car only thing you can see are the speakers. I drilled many ventilation holes in the battery box to ensure proper air flow. The finished backs of the speakers are also nice, aluminum which blend nicely.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111482&d=1564397153

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[Paul Mischenko]

Here is a photo of the underdash panel. I have 2 strips of LED lighting, they are off/on and dimmed with a knob in the panel. All the speedhut gauge control wires are lined up beside the charging station. I have a switch which controls the power to by MSD box, I thought an added security feature, then the JL audio Bluetooth receiver, there is also an amp volume knob so I can control the volume with this button and not on my phone. Tried to hide everything as much as I could so when looking at the car it was as clean as possible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111484&d=1564397767

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111485&d=1564397774

[Paul Mischenko]

In the last picture you can see the stitching in the removable transmission tunnel. It matches the body color. Did the same for the shifter boot. It is almost black so blends well, but in the sun you can see the difference. I attached the transmission top with 4 6/32 black oxide screws. I taped the frame so they go in directly. For those looking to do the same. A little tip, don't drill the holes until you have all the gaskets and you know the thickness of your covering.... I did before and had to make a few modifications to get the holes to line up!

[Paul Mischenko]

Here is a photo looking inside the battery box with stereo inside. I also ran a 2 gauge wire right off my battery cutoff, with the amp switch inside the engine bay. Think it looks pretty clean. With the cover on you don't see anything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111486&d=1564398601

[Paul Mischenko]

Here is a photo of the JL Audio amp fuse. For all the exposed wire sleeving I used painless classic braid. Think it looks really nice. With Ancor Marine tube shrink.
The blue wires is the clutch safety switch circuit. I didn't want to have the clutch in to start the car. I originally just had a switch up under the dash, another security thing I thought. But then as I had the engine and trany out..more about that later... I decided to use the neutral safety switch on the TKO600 with a relay. SO installed a waterproof relay in transmission tunnel and now to start the car, switch needs to be on and the car needs to be in neutral. Clutch can be out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111487&d=1564399327

[aspbite]

Congratulations. Very nice build. How did you like the Acton dash? I've been considering one.

[Mick40]

Hi Paul,

Did you do the stitching on the transmission cover? Nice touch!

Mick

[Paul Mischenko]

Nick was really great to work with. I sent him the full specs of where I wanted the gauges with measurements. He did proper cutouts for the switches with notches etc... It will take a little massaging to fit properly especially around the bends and you will need to trim the top of the bends as the body will hit. We had a little mix up with the glove box, first try had interference with the support column so Nick was kind enough to redo. He also made and welded a custom glove box. The dash is also very stiff with the bend along the entire bottom of the dash so very sturdy which is nice. Highly recommend it. I'll look up some photos to post re dash mock up.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Mick, I didn't do the stitching myself, I had Hudson Valley Interiors do the stitching, they also did the carpet binding which I did in the matching leather throughout the car. Last time I touched a sowing machine was in 8th grade.....

[RJD]

Beautiful build! Love the color. Congratulations.

[Boydster]

Very nice build, cool details. Well thought out. Congratulations!

[GTBradley]

Very nice! Congratulations.

[Paul Mischenko]

Here is a better photo of the wiring layout in engine bay, with JL Audio fuse. Tried to hide it yet get to it.
I thought the classic braid sleeving from painless was nice quality

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111527&d=1564446699

[Paul Mischenko]

Congratulations. Very nice build. How did you like the Acton dash? I've been considering one.

The areas that needed most work with the Acton dash was the interference here on the ends and getting the dash to sit flush on the 3/4 tube along the front with the ends level. Just took a little bending to get the dash to align and used a dremel to grind away the interference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111525&d=1564446636

[Paul Mischenko]

These were the parts I had triple chrome plated.
I had to swap out the trunk hinges as I went with the new Factory Five trunk strut kit as I was concerned about mine pushing up on the back lid of the trunk.
The Factory Five ones came as Stainless Steel and I mirror polished them, they look and work great.
Struts are just strong enough to hold the trunk open, with the new design no pressure on the back hood lid, so lines up perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111528&d=1564447467

[Paul Mischenko]

Metco Driveshaft Safety Loop - Debating this and decided to add. Had it powder coated to match the frame and also powder coated the A-frame transmission support to have an even look under the car. Was super easy to install and seems very sturdy. Had to make some spacers out of aluminum stock to lift up the loop for more clearance. Had those powder coated to match as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111534&d=1564504558

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[Paul Mischenko]

Wanted to thank everyone for all the encouraging comments regarding the build. Really means a lot coming from fellow builders who know what we've gone through!

[Paul Mischenko]

Rookie Mistake
So one the the mistakes I made during the build was drilling into the floor plan for the drivers and passenger floor aluminum. I didn't realize till after that I would be looking at an unfinished rivet on the bottom. I tried to have all the unfinished rivets on the inside covered up with the lizard skin. In coming up with a fix, I tried some black epoxy fill I used to fill other gaps, but didn't like the look. So I decided to drill the holes out, and use some 1/16th SS button head screws held in place with JB weld so they are not coming out. They give a finished look to the underside.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111538&d=1564507831

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[mlewis]

gorgeous build, in out and under …

love the color.

[Paul Mischenko]

Regarding the engine, I had the engine block, power-steering body, filter cover, valve covers, MSD box & coil painted body color.
I also had the oil pan powder coated the metallic gray to match the frame and other aluminum panels so the bottom of the car was matching.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111610&d=1564572624

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[Paul Mischenko]

Forgot to add I had the top of the dipstick done in matching body color and the dipstick tube was metallic grey, matching fame/pan etc...

[Paul Mischenko]

Bought some XPEL vinyl wrap on Amazon, was only $22 for 6" x 84" and cutout and installed some pieces for the rear fenders.
Took a couple of tries but you can't even see it done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111691&d=1564698664

[Paul Mischenko]

Decided to swap out the indicator lights from amber to clear, think it looks better with the colors of the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111690&d=1564698632

[mburger]

Regarding the engine, I had the engine block, power-steering body, filter cover, valve covers, MSD box & coil painted body color.
I also had the oil pan powder coated the metallic gray to match the frame and other aluminum panels so the bottom of the car was matching.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111610&d=1564572624

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Absolutely gorgeous.

[Paul Mischenko]

In addition to having all the aluminum panels powder coated to match the chassis, for any areas that would be left exposed I also had rivets powder coated to match the frame, worked out pretty well, however I did have to sand off some of the powder coating to ensure the tool could grip the rivet shaft properly. For the trunk access panels I used 10-32 nutserts and stainless steel button head screws. For the battery box top and drop trunk top I used 10-32 nutsert with stainless steel thumb screws to make them easy to remove. I bought the FFR trunk carpet kit and just used the main section. All the edges were bound with the same leather I used for the dash and interior. The carpet wasn't glued down as it's held in place from the battery box cover, drop trunk cover, and roll bars. Doesn't move and should I even need to access the panels below can lift it up. I used the painless classic braid to cover the bumper mounts once the body was installed. Blends in nice with the carpet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111760&d=1564850552

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[Paul Mischenko]

Finally got the last piece to complete the car. I had Billet Badges do a custom steering wheel badge in the spirit of the 20th Anniversary build. Took them 4 months to complete but I am pretty happy with the outcome. I had the blue in the badge matched to my navy blue body color and the badge was domed so it follows the contour of the steering wheel hub.

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[edwardb]

Wow, that's awesome. Very cool touch. I haven't posted in your graduation thread until now, but let me also add my congratulations for your beautiful build. Getting near the end of the third driving season for my 20th Anniversary Roadster, and don't get tired of driving it. You're going to love it. Thanks for the shout out too. It was my pleasure to help whenever I could. You did the work and did it well.

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks Paul. Appreciate the words of encouragement and all the help along the way. Many Thanks.

[BadAsp427]

Looks awesome. I’m so excited to be getting mine painted soon as well. I really like your steering wheel. When I first saw the picture I thought like wow how am I going to get mine since I didn’t get one of those in my kit! That is fantastic.

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks. Paint was certainly an exciting and milestone step. Especially the first time seeing the body painted with stripes. Then its homestretch!

[KDubU]

Okay now, I commented previously but the details, just wow! Beautiful colors and the continuation of it in the engine bay is awesome. Love what you did with the center piece on the steering wheel.

[WIS89]

Paul-

You did an awesome job with your build!! I love all of the extra details that really help the car stand apart. The car turned out beautifully, and I know you must be really proud of how she turned out!

I hope you get some driving time before the season closes on you. The weather can be unforgiving up there to be sure.

Congratulations on a stunning build, and thanks also for showing the extra details as well. I really admire the folks that can make the modifications that make these cars so unique, and yours really stand out!

Well done!!

Regards,

Steve

[Paul Mischenko]

So one more final detail here which was completed. Wanted some slightly different plates s decided to go the custom route. Can't get Historic plates as it's registered as a 2019 Custom. For some reason NYS the ends of the plates are not painted so were left bare, didn't look great, so bought a polished stainless steel frame on Amazon for $30 which after some adjustments worked out well.
Just finishing up my new floor as well. Decided to go with Dark Grey and & PVC tiles.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112935&d=1566775661

[GTBradley]

I like that TNT is dead center in the built not bought license plate!

[Paul Mischenko]

In sticking with the theme of the build.
As I had the blue in the steering wheel badge matched to the body color, we also repainted the hood, trunk and side emblems.
We replaced the light blue with the blue body color.
Supposedly the new paint doesn't stick to the chrome, so didn't have to mask everything exactly.
Also with lots of polished parts, I decided to do the same with the upgraded side louvers that came from FFR.
Got those to a mirror finish, however had to paint the inside part black and replace the rivet holding them together as you could see the reflection.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113153&d=1567116906

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[Paul Mischenko]

With the lower breeze radiator support I decided to go with the Replica Part Radiator aluminum piece.
It's a quality piece. As with everything takes some fitting, but once installed it's in good and snug.
Benefit is you have a really clean finish on the front as no rivets into the body are needed.
As with all the bare aluminum I had it mirror polished. Please with the way it fits and looks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113155&d=1567117382

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[Paul Mischenko]

Fabricated the radiator grill from 3/4" aluminum strips and stainless steel mesh. Very similar to what edwardb did, thanks for the idea, along with many others! Held in place with two screws up top. I also installed 1/4" spacers to keep the screen right off the radiator face. Sides were mirror polished as well. For the brake and oil cooler openings I made paper molds, then cut out the shapes in 3/4" plywood and bend the screen around the shapes. It's held in place on the back with Black Hi-Strength silicon. Feels pretty sturdy. Used the elastic bands to hold them in place while it dried overnight.

[Paul Mischenko]

Installed the Factory Five Wind Wing Kit along, Replica Parts Windshield post trim plates and Breeze Billet Mirrors. Decided to install the wind wings so you can read the factory five logo on bottom from the outside instead of the inside. Made sure there was clearance on the bottom to swing them in. Also the hardware to install the billet mirrors doesn't match what comes with the wind wings so ordered matching hardware from McMaster. Didn't like the screw on the outside of the of the windshield post trim plates so turn them around. They aren't going anywhere with the windshield on top of them. To fill the screw hole on the inside, I cut a chrome screw head off and put a little silicon to hold it in place. Very happy with the Breeze Mirrors they work great, installed them on the passenger side as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113906&d=1567949443

[Paul Mischenko]

Just looking at the photo, the door isn't closed so the gap all around is even not what it's showing in the photo.

[Paul Mischenko]

Watched a great movie tonight. Highly recommend if you haven't seen it already.

The 24 hour War

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114151&d=1568253711

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4875844/

[Paul Mischenko]

Receive my Phill & Kay tonneau cover today. Fits well and they were a pleasure to deal with.
Backing is soft which is nice and black vinyl looks good.
Ordered the storage bag as well, fits nicely into the trunk.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114246&d=1568379431

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[BadAsp427]

I really like those covers as well. Just a little knowledge from experience make sure that you tighten those bungee cords pretty darn tight that way if it’s in the rain the water will flow off and not puddle. Too much puddling and it could cave-in. I caught mine just before that happened one morning and learned my lesson.

114334

114335

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks very much for the suggestion. Will certainly make note of that when using. Nice catch on your side!

[Paul Mischenko]

I went with the Gas-N side pipes and also used their headers. Georgie was such a pleasure to deal with. We had a couple issues finding the correct flange which gave enough clearance for the spark plug wire with my Roush set up. After a couple tries we got it just right. In trying to keep the engine bay as cool as I could, decided to have the headers, boig cooling pipes ceramic coated at JetHot. I used their Polish Finish which most closely matched a chrome finish. Took about 3-4 weeks for the turn around and I had to sand the headers before sending to ensure a smooth finish.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114353&d=1568580665

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[Paul Mischenko]

Here is a photo of the boig cooling pipes installed. Not a perfect match to the polished engine but pretty close and hopefully the ceramic coating will keep it cooler.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114356&d=1568581451

[Paul Mischenko]

Before I had my car painted I saw Factory Five had some cool metal signs on their website. Bought both sizes and also had a custom aluminum sign made (that idea came from one of edwardb posts! thanks again) had them all painted to match the car colors. Thought would look cool in the garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114523&d=1568834385

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114524&d=1568834393

[Paul Mischenko]

Did the wipers and hood latches slightly different from the instructions. Instead of drilling through the hood, I bonded nut plates on the inside of the hood (similar to what edwardb did) and used chrome screws to hold the latch in place. Installed the copper bushing on the other side where the shaft exists and this was bonded in place and painted the body color. I made some new clips from angled aluminum and polished both the clips and wings. Originally was going to attach the clips with screws through the edge of the hood perimeter, however a suggestion from my painter was to try and keep that as clean as possible, so I found some small studs which we bonded to the underside of the hood. Holds the clips in place and there are no screws on the other side. I have only 2 small hood grommets, center top and center bottom, with small pieces of gasket attached to the hood (same gasket used on the doors). For the wiper assembly I swapped out the rubber supports underneath and made pieces from square aluminum tubing (similar to how edwardb did it -... anyone see a pattern here!) polished it as well, for the tubing I decided to make new pieces from the same SS 3/8" tubing I used for my fuel lines. Polished them up as well and everything fit in nicely.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114526&d=1568835652

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[NiceGuyEddie]

10

;)

[Paul Mischenko]

So I had originally planned on using Mike's Trunk MK4 Strut kit you use with the factory hinges. Had the factory hinges chromed and mounted with the kit. Kit came with 40lb struts. I had read a few posts where some people had problems lining up the top part of the trunk as the struts where attached to the hinge were pushing up. Then saw a post where FFR redesigned the hinge and included a spot to mount the strut pin. The result is there is no pressure pushing up on trunk. Had the hinge and brackets shipped out. They are really nice SS, which I polished up to a mirror finish, looks just like chrome. I ordered the recommended 28 lb struts and used Mike brackets to connect to strut to the 3/4" where the seat belts come in. Very pleased with this setup, looks great and holds the trunk up perfectly. FFR Kit # 16590 for those interested. You can see how the hinge changed with the different mounting point for the strut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114578&d=1568940764

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114577&d=1568940756

[Paul Mischenko]

Like many I also went with CNC's triple reservoirs. I also installed Forte's hydraulic clutch system. One word of caution, if you stick with his master, be careful on how far your throw the slave out. Think max is 1.25 ish... over 1.75 and you can easily push the piston out and have a mess. Ask me how I know that one!
Also make sure you have the proper play from the slave to the clutch fork at rest. I had a lot of back and forth trying to get it right. Pedal travel is pretty short, which works out well as my chassis still had the interference issue with the clutch pedal and the frame. I chose to notch out one small corner of the pedal and use a rubber stop so it doesn't go to the floor. So shorter pedal travel worked out just fine.
For the CNC setup I made a bracket out of thicker aluminum, had it powder coated to match the frame. Bought the all black tubing, same and edwardb used on his 20th. Good quality stuff and think it looks nice. Have 3 angled chrome connectors on the bottom of the CNC's. Changed the screws on top to the SS button head, another great idea I got from edwardb build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114702&d=1569186274

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[Paul Mischenko]

As I ended up changes many things from the standard build I found the electrical to be one of the more time consuming parts. Lots of thinking, researching, planning and lots of just looking at the build! One tool I found particularly useful was this Pyramid Power Supply. Great safe and easy way to test your work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114706&d=1569187451

[Paul Mischenko]

Went with the Russ Thompson turn signal kit. Really a quality product. Again the wiring took some decent planning. I decided to use the button on the stock for the horn. For all my connections I used Ancor Marine heat shrink connectors and used their black heat shrink throughout the build. This is how I ended up wiring the turn signal kit. Installed a terminal block and attached it right on the edge of the under dash support panel. It's on with velcro so I can pull it down if needed. I made the dash removable (I hope I never have to) so there are connectors all around.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114708&d=1569187739

[Paul Mischenko]

700 Mile Update.
Having some great weather in NYS this past weekend allowed my to really enjoy the car. Put the stereo on for the first time. Have a 400 watt amp, and while you can hear it, it's really overpowered with the sound of the exhaust. Was nice to have on the longer drive, kept the music pretty tame. Last thing I need is to put on GnR and wrap it around a tree! However more than happy just to hear the exhaust! As mentioned in a previous post my front ride height was a little high. 5" on passenger side and 4 3/4" on drivers. I've been slowly adjusting it down, so I'm at 4" in the front and the rear has settled from 5 to 4 3/8". Going to leave it there for now. One thing that I noticed was at first drive the car felt loose to me with the power steering, I didn't have the feel for the road I wanted and just too easy to turn. In addition the one issue I had to deal with was a power steering leak. Wasn't too easy to find, but finally traced it with Marks help to the top tube nut. Filed off some of the powder coating and only needed only about 1/4 of a turn to seal properly. That seems to have done the trick for now. I was running 23.4 psi all around, Mark suggested I drop the fronts to 22, which made a difference. I contacted the team at Jones Racing and asked about a valve to lower the pressure. Long story short they managed to get me a low flow valve. The current one I had the small opening was a #32 bit, the new one a #42 bit, specs were Open Flow 1.25 GPM, Max Pres 0.093" PSI. Installed the new valve and worked perfectly. There is much more feel now at lower speeds and car doesn't feel loose. So happy with that and looking forward to enjoying some more nice weather!

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[Boydster]

I also have a Jones Racing front end. I was wondering about a lower flow power steering valve. Also, what mount are you using to allow your reservoir to clear the steering shaft? I've seen they have a higher mount power steering bracket... is that what you used?Mine was deep into interference, so had to go to a remote reservoir. This would be a much cleaner install.

Thanks...

[Paul Mischenko]

I also have a Jones Racing front end. I was wondering about a lower flow power steering valve. Also, what mount are you using to allow your reservoir to clear the steering shaft? I've seen they have a higher mount power steering bracket... is that what you used?Mine was deep into interference, so had to go to a remote reservoir. This would be a much cleaner install.

Thanks...

So I remember when working to spec the engine out I had a pretty hard time trying to find a power steering setup, spoke to all the top brands. I was also thinking external reservoir. In all the back and forth with Roush, they had started working on offering PS as an option with their crate engines. I know Roush makes the other brackets and pulleys custom in house, but not 100% sure about the PS, I'll ask them. I know the pump is a GM Type - II and the reservoir is from Jones Racing as they had a polished one. Regarding the low flow valve, I deal with Chris at Jones Racing (610) 847-2028, he was a great help, dealt with him on a few other things as my cap was leaking initially as well. When I received the engine I was pretty concerned it would interfere with the rack as well. Here are a few more photos. I have a little over an inch on the bottom, not a lot of room but enough.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115045&d=1569544208

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[Boydster]

Great, thanks for the detailed pics. I have the same GM type II pump from Jones. Your PS pump mount is def Jones, and it is def their high mount. I have the lower mount and its OK, but not how I'd really like. It interferes hard with the pump mounted res, and I had to go remote. I'd like to do just as you and have the pump with attached reservoir, clearing the steering shaft. I see you are 351 based, so am I.

Thanks, you answered some long-standing questions I've had. So new bracket, pump & res, lo flow valve, Breeze lines and fittings, maybe new belt... $$$ ;)

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Boyd, Yep the Roush 427SR is 351W based, I also have a mechanical pump which is another reason for the higher mount. Many of the options I had explored would have interfered with the mechanical fuel pump I have. Good luck and let me know if you needed anymore info. Cheers

[Paul Mischenko]

Dash - So I spent a lot of time thinking and planning the dash layout. First debated the standard dash vs the competition dash. One I decided on Comp dash, I did a layout similar to how edwardb suggested, sitting in the car and laying out the dash. Bought a bunch of circle stickers from Amazon in sizes which matched gauges and just sat in the car with the steering wheel and placed them in the spot I thought worked best which cleared the steering wheel. I marked where the body was sitting so I was sure not to have any interference with the gauges. I also decided to add an Oil Temp gauge. Contacted Speedhut and ordered one which matched my custom 20th Ann gauge with MK4-009 on them. I used to provided blank dash to mock everything up, measured a bunch of times, then measured again, and then cut the dash. Laid it out with the gauges and once I was happy I worked with Nick from Acton Cobra and he cut me a dash with the exact measurements I gave him, used the steering column as a reference. I chose Nick's dash as there is a bend across the bottom and the dash is supper solid. I used the under dash lip to mount the dash to my underdash filler panel. With a similar grab handle mount that edwardb did, the dash is rock solid, doesn't move. I actually put some brackets with the 3m hi strength velcro to hold the dash against the mounting tube. Tried a bunch of different ways to bond the 3m velcro to the aluminum brackets. Thought I had it with contact cement then didn't hold. With the way the dash was built I didn't need it anyway. Couple of points, Nicks dash is a little lower right in the middle, so with the way mine lined up I didn't fully cover the 3/4" frame. So I had to make sure not to trim too much off front body cowl as didn't want to see the top of the dash. As a precaution I painted the 3/4"frame tube black to blend in with the dash. I had about 1/4" right at the high point. Also ask mentioned previously it took quite a bit of fitting, trimming, bending to get the dash to fit properly. As it's so stiff this took a little time. In the end it all worked out and I'm very happy with the dash. I don't like the puffy look with the dash so I didn't use any padding behind the leather. Very happy with how it turned out. Nick did a great job and was bang on with the measurements along with cutting the ignition and switch holes with the straight sides so they don't spin.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115133&d=1569774846

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[Paul Mischenko]

Glove Box - I used the same hinges as edwardb did in his build. Took a while to get everything lined up. Door, linges, making sure the face was level with the dash and it was a tight closed fit all around. Used a small pieces of leather taped to the dash to help me ensure I got the gaps correct. Used the same VW latch. Fabricated a small bracket from aluminum, again more trial and error getting it in the right spot so the latch caught tightly, while holding the door snug to the opening. Polished it when done. Happy with the way it turned out, don't think I'd change anything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115137&d=1569776721

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[Paul Mischenko]

Bumpers
So similar to many I used the ********** grommets in the front. Takes a little time cutting out the body openings to get them to sit flush, used a dremel with small sanding disc. I bought 3/4" stainless tube from McMaster, cut it to length and polished it. The inside diameter of the 3/4" tube was slightly larger than the long bolts which came with the kit, so I bought some plastic tube again from McMaster to fill in the difference. The long bolt threads into the overider then I have nuts ensuring it stays tight. I used washers to try and get the angle just right so it matches the opening in the body. I great point edwardb made in his post. For the rear I used the couplers, similar to how edwardb did it. Had them powder coated to match the frame. I thought the rear over-riders sat a little too close to the body when I had it all mocked up. So cut some slightly longer 3/4 stainless steel tube (same I used in the fronts) was about 3/8" longer. I used a neoprene washer against the body, then a chrome washer before the tube. I wanted the over-riders to sit out just past the rear lights. Drilled out the rear over-riders and used locknuts to hold in place. Not easy getting the bolts on, took many tries but this worked out well in the end. Looking in the trunk I held the Stainless Steel Threaded rod in place with nuts up against the body I used the same neoprene washer and a chrome washer. To cover the rod inside the trunk I used a piece of the Painless Classic Braid which I used throughout my build. I like the finished look it provides over the plastic wire covering.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115445&d=1570282361

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[Boydster]

Nice work. I just installed my bumpers but am using the **********s with a welded in nut. I NEVER thought I would get it, but I did.

Highly suggest using the F5 units like you did.

[Paul Mischenko]

Nice work. I just installed my bumpers but am using the **********s with a welded in nut. I NEVER thought I would get it, but I did.

Highly suggest using the F5 units like you did.

Thanks Boyd. Funny I had a similar experience, let's just say there were a lot of choice words used trying to get those nuts on! I did buy these stubby flex head ratcheting wrenches which helped and have come in handy a few times since. Cheers

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBC7LM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Paul Mischenko]

Reverse Light - Living in NYS you need a reverse light for safety inspection. I spent a lot of time researching different options. I really didn't want to install a light in the body. Thought about LED lights on license plate, however not compliant as you need the correct SAE numbers on the lens. I decided on a removable bracket where I installed a clear Lucas reverse lens, had the correct reverse light markings: SAE SRP 69. Made a bracket from some .08 aluminum, powder coated it the gray metallic to match my 20th Ann frame. I used the 3m high strength velcro to attach it. For those wanted I slightly more permanent, nutserts could work as well. Used a weatherpack connector. Like the back end much better without it, but thought it was a decent non-intrusive way to meet the safety requirements then remove. Can always be put back on if needed in future.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115502&d=1570361930

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[Paul Mischenko]

Clear Undercoating
So with the 20th Ann Kit the engine bay panels, including the elephant ears were powder coated white. I chose to powder coat all the remaining panels the same silver metallic to match the frame. While coating the elephant ears with the black 3M undercoating, I asked my painter, Ron if he had come across any clear undercoating that didn't yellow the panels. After some digging around he came up with the product below. Decided to give it a try. Made my elephant ears, front & rear removable so if it didn't hold up I could always revert to the black. So far very happy with the results, it wipes clear and doesn't have a yellow tint at all.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115580&d=1570481123

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[Paul Mischenko]

Carpet - I decided to put my battery cut off switch dead center just above the transmission cover in the front. I went with the one from Breeze as it had the removable key, like the look and that you can remove the key. To make the circular hole in the carpet I heated up an old socket with a butane torch, and it easily cut the hole perfectly round, used smaller bolts for the two small holes. I suggest a couple of practice runs and using a slightly smaller socket as it melts back. By melting the ends I think there is also less chance of fraying. I did the same for all the round holes in the carpet. Happy with the results. I bought some extra carpet from Factory Five to have on hand. For the passenger side floor I made a new full length piece instead of the two pieces which didn't cover the back of the 2" frame. Was also nice having the extra carpet on hand as I had to make several more of the odd shaped sills pieces on the drivers side to get the carpet to cover everything properly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115731&d=1570660726

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[Paul Mischenko]

Removable Trans Cover - As mentioned above I used 4 6/32 black screws which I tapped into the frame to hold the transmission cover on. Didn't want anything across the top and these screws blend in nicely with the black leather. With my setup I was able to turn around the shifter top of the TKO600 to move the shifter I little father forward. Just had enough clearance to the 3/4" frame. I used the FF Metal .060" Trans top, no hole was cut, so I was able to align the hole in the dead center. This piece is also wider than the original which really helps as you need the clearance if you want the carpet to tuck up underneath. Even so I still had to bend out the sides a tiny bit, a little more in the corners, and had to trim a little in front corners. Centering the shift hole also allowed me to put a nutsert in the 3/4" frame and use the top center screw from the shifter ring to hold down the transmission top from the middle. Not sure it was necessary but it all ligned up. I used the lizard skin on the underneath of the transmission cover with the addition of the lizard skin black finishing spray. Underneath the leather I used a very thin piece of padding, so different to my dash which has no padding.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115866&d=1570900774

[PrestonT23]

Such an amazing car! great work!

[Paul Mischenko]

Carpet Binding - As there was binding already on my 20th Ann floor mats, I tried to find a matching binding. No luck there. I then decided on using the same leather I did my interior in. I tried to bind all the edges that were visible, in addition to the top of the transmission side pieces that are covered by the transmission top. Pleased with the way it turned out. I was able to do everything all from one hide: Dash, glovebox, transmission top, door panels, shifter boot, e-brake boot and all carpet bindings. Still a small gap near the door latch, a tough spot to fill and make it look finished. I did make some panels in the wheel wells to plug the gap between frame and body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115946&d=1570990144

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[Paul Mischenko]

Dark Water Sills - I went with the Dark Water Aluminum Sills. Go them unfinished and once I did all the fitting, trimming, banging etc to get them to fit they were polished. I highly recommend fitting these before you paint. To get them to fit properly I spent a while with a hard rubber mallet getting the curve right and minimizing the gap to the body. Similar to edwardb I trimed the front short just under the hinge to avoid any interference, also easier to fit. I tried to line up the other side to the top of the latch. Messed one set up as cut the top side too short, so started again, to fill as much of that gap as I could. There was a decent amount of trimming to get proper clearance from the carpet to get it to sit flush on the fiberglass. In the end happy with the results and I think was worth the effort.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115947&d=1570990153

[Paul Mischenko]

Oil Pressure Sending Unit - Instead of using the oil pressure sending unit that came with the kit. I decided to get one from Speedhut. As I have the mechanical fuel pump right there I liked that this one was more compact and wiring was a little cleaner. I had to swap out the internals of my gauge so it was compatible with this sensor. Speedhut did that along with building be an Oil Temp gauge with my 20th Ann markings. Again I used the speedhut temperature gauge sending unit for both the oil temp and my coolant temperature, wiring and connections matched. For the wire braiding that was right close to the engine I didn't use the painless classic braid used on the rest of my build, I used Insultherm from WireCare.com. It's a resin coated fiberglass which protects up to 1,200. I thought they had some pretty good products. I also used this to protect the wires running along the top of the engine from the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116066&d=1571159271

[Paul Mischenko]

Hood Gasket - Originally I was planning on using the small rubber bumpers placed around the perimeter of hood opening on the body. In discussions with my painter, he had suggested using a thin gasket placed in 4 places on the hood and only needing 2 rubber bumpers on the body hood opening. The two rubber bumpers went on the dark blue, top and bottom, as did the gasket around on the hood. This allowed for a clean look on the body opening when you open the hood. He glued the ends shut of the gasket to give it a finished look. Given the dark blue color of the body, the gasket blends in well. By also not placing the gasket all around the hood the should allow for increased air flow. Hood is good an snug when closed.

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[Mick40]

The level of detail is outstanding, nice job!!!!!

Mick

[Gizmosrcool]

Too many nice and cool mods and details. Congratulations!

[ydousurf]

It's an absolute work of art and I think we all love it too! Paul, you"ve taken your build to the top level and you went, well, way beyond it! Nicely done!

Dj

[Paul Mischenko]

Alternator Wiring - As mentioned the wiring took me a while as did lot of thinking and research. I changed some of the harness, one was removing all the alternator wires. My set up had a single wire alternator. As my battery was in the front with the Breeze mount. I decided to run a wire from the alternator to a manual reset circuit breaker. I went with 150 amp Blue Sea one. Then directly to the battery. This was a nice short run that kept any of the wires out of the cockpit and by adding the circuit breaker gave me a little protection should the alternator fail. Thought this was cleaner than running the wire back up to the battery cutoff switch. Made a bracket for the breaker out of aluminum and used nutserts should I need to swap out the breaker. Where it's placed it's easy to access. I have a JL Audio battery connector which has 3 inputs, only 2 were use, one line from the alternator/circuit breaker and the other goes to my battery cut off switch mounted in the front middle under the dash.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116214&d=1571439995

[Paul Mischenko]

Hardware - I ended up changing a lot of the hardware, McMaster was my go to. Anything that didn't need a strength rated bolt I changed to stainless. Got the button head screw idea from edwardb's build and pretty much used them throughout my build on the drivers foot box, front & rear elephant ears, rear wheel well cockpit filler panels, radiator cowl cover and the two access panels in the trunk. As mentioned previously I had all the door, hood and trunk hinges and brackets all triple chromed. So I ended up changing all the hardware to stainless and chrome. For the doors I went with higher acron nuts to ensure proper clearance. For some reason I couldn't get the doors to swing out enough so I turned the bracket around, used matching acorn nuts there as well. For the straps and belts I used the same black dye edwardb did in his build. Very happy with how those turned out and matches the interior as well.

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[delta0014]

Door hinges look good.

[tt400]

Really like the door hinges. Nice choice

[rezell3d]

My God, that is a beautiful built. Well done Paul.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Meant to ask in case I missed in in the really nice thread. What is the source for the passenger grab grab handle. Wife could really use that. :D

[Paul Mischenko]

Got the Grab Handle and mounting bracket idea from edwardb's build. It was a great addition. Made the mounting brackets out of steel and had them powder coated to match the frame. Really helps keep the dash in place. Grab Handle is from Eddie Marine - part # 275-24
https://www.eddiemarine.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=275-24

[Paul Mischenko]

I did the Breeze locking gas cap option. It's a really nice piece. You need to do a little work to the original cap but I think the finished product is a nice look. I also changed the grounding wire. Made my own from and wrapped it in the painless classic braid, matches what I used throughout my build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116333&d=1571591455

[Paul Mischenko]

I used Weatherpack connectors on all the exterior connections in the build. After a few practice runs with the right crimping tool they were pretty easy to put together.
I finished all the wires with ancor marine black shrink wrap. Kept the original wire covering which came with the lights. Made installing and removing the lights pretty easy, something that I did many times throughout the build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116337&d=1571591917

[Paul Mischenko]

Here is another photo of the painless classic braid I used. I also changed all the battery wires. I switched to 2 gauge for the power cables from battery to cut off and also for the starter. I used 2 gauge for the grounding wires. I used 4 gauge wire to the alternator. Thought the ancor marine heat shrink was good quality. Only thing I didn't like was the name written on it, I tried to always have that towards the back so you don't see it. I tapped the frame to hold the clips in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116351&d=1571593134

[Paul Mischenko]

Ignition wiring - Again spent a decent amount of time on the wiring schematic for the ignition system. Wiring was one of the most time consuming parts of the build for me. With my power steering set up I couldn't mount the coil on the front of the engine. Thought about the firewall, but that was a long way for the coil / distributor lead. Saw there was a spot on the intake manifold where I could bolt a mounting bracket for the coil. Found a chrome bracket online which worked and swapped out the regular coil with the MSD high vibration coil (which you can lay flat). I painted both the 6AL digital MSD box and the coil the same Dark Metallic Blue as the body, matched what I did with the block, valve covers and air cleaner. As I was planning a stereo I also added an MSD noise capacitor, wired this up on the passenger side as decided to mount the MSD box on top the passenger footbox. Decided on that so I could have access if needed to be swapped out. The original leads from the MSD box were just long enough to reach the coil running behind the firewall. Knowing now how loud the side pipes are, I doubt there is any chance you would hear any interference or noise coming through the stereo with the car running, so not sure it's necessary. Also now that I'm well through the break-in period I have to say I'm really glad the MSD box has a rev limiter, was pretty easy to get to 6250! So highly recommend you use that option on this box.

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[Paul Mischenko]

Sharing some photos I took with a decent camera...unfortunately it's the end of the driving season for us here in NY. Getting ready to do an oil change and park the car on the Race Ramps for the season....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117268&d=1573246152

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117269&d=1573246159

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117270&d=1573246166

[Paul Mischenko]

Tried to use LED's in the build where I could. Used the small low profile LED indicators from Watson's StreetWorks, similar to edwardb, in the dash. Tried both the large and small and settled on the small low profile. They have a nice finish which matches the chrome on the speedhut gauges. They are bright and easy to see during the day. The nut on the back was a pretty tight fit over the wires, one LED came with a wire slightly frayed, easily replaced, but something to keep an eye on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117307&d=1573321336

[Paul Mischenko]

Update Crystal Clear 2K Chip Guard - post #88 above - So after 1200 miles wanted to update on clear chip guard I used on the front & rear elephant ears. Think it held up pretty good. Roads around me aren't great so a reasonable amount of rocks/debris. After wiping them down with a mild cleaner, only marks you can notice are very very small clear chip marks. So far happy with the way they have held up and allows me to keep the matching colors throughout the wheel well. As I made both the front and rears removable, worst case if they don't hold up after a full season is to remove and spray with the black 3M which was used on the body. So far so good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117639&d=1573915021

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117640&d=1573915031

[2FAST4U]

Gorgeous build. Your attention to detail is flawless.

[Paul Mischenko]

2000 Mile Update & Build Suggestions.
First off, I hope the FFR community and your families are healthy and safe during this time.
The weather in NY has really been amazing, at these last 2 months, so have had the chance for some great drives. Outside of today, was bound to happen at some point, but got caught in the rain for the first time. Thought I would provide a 2000 mile update. One of the biggest decisions is the engine. I went with a Roush 427 SR, it had 516 hp and 527 ft lbs torque at the flywheel. I got the polished version, matched the block, valve covers and air filter housing color to the body. Came out great and wouldn’t change a thing. I read some previous issues of minor leaks, knock on wood, so far, no issues. It has plenty of power for the weight of the car, you can lose the back end fairly easily in 1st and 2nd and possibly 3rd but really fun to drive. It does have a pretty rough idle, something I presume you don’t get using the Coyote. However, it really sounds great. I don’t think it’s too much power for the car and so far, I’m really happy with how it drives.
For the side pipes I went with the Gas-N along with their headers. I can’t comment if they are any quieter than the polished FFR ones that came with my kit, but I think they sound great and are not too loud at all. Some wear ear plugs, I don’t. However, it’s up there. You don’t want to be driving beside a concrete highway divider for too long!
Having 2 kids, I also bought drummer mike’s polished side pipe shields. These really came out great and I would certainly do it again. I actually got caught once before having them on and it’s not fun.
Lots of debate around a stereo or not. In the end I’m glad I put it in. Hid as much as I could, you can only see the 2 speakers on rear cockpit wall. I certainly don’t use it much on my solo drives, but my eldest daughter enjoys playing DJ when she comes along, so I’m glad it’s in to make her want to come on more drives! If I had to do it again, I would likely hide two speakers in the front somewhere to give is slightly better sound. Above 3k and it’s really tough to hear.
For the mirrors I got the billet ones from Breeze which attach to the side wings. At first, I thought they were a little close, but they are great mirrors. You can really see a lot and they look great. Much more functional than the fender bullet mirrors on my MGB. So, I would definitely recommend these.
For the shifter location I did the following. Have a TKO600. I turned the shifter around so it sat a little further up. I also used the finish line bend shifting arm, 427 T5 handle. I managed to pretty much center it on the removable transmission cover I did. The location is very comfortable and easy to drive. I have a fire extinguisher mounted on the rear cockpit wall and everything works fine with no interference. I wouldn’t change a thing with the shifter.
I have the stock radiator that came with kit, I didn’t install an oil cooler. I did however install a larger overflow canister. Living in NY, I’ve never had any issues with the car overheating. I installed Replica Parts Roadster Aluminum Panel which I think turned out great and I have the breeze Fan shroud which will help a bit as well. Driven the car when it’s 95 degrees out with no issues and no coolant leaks in the garage.
Used the Dark Water aluminum door sills. Polished these up and think they look great. Very happy with these and they give the interior a nice finished look.
I did the lizard skin heat & sound spray insulation. I don’t have any air vents; you can feel some heat in the footboxes if its really hot out but it’s not a big deal at all. I also had the headers ceramic coated at Jet Hot. Very happy and no issues with the cockpit getting too hot at all.
Installed the Russ Thompson dead pedal, happy I did. It’s nice to have a spot to rest the foot when driving on highway.
For the clutch I have a McLeod Super Street Pro Clutch and the Forte hydraulic setup. I’m happy with this. The car is very drivable in traffic. The one issue to note with the McLeod clutch is I believe its narrowed then a Centerforce. This means you need a longer clutch fork pivot ball to get the right fork angle. The longer McLeod pivot ball has an indentation right at the end so it’s not as wide as the one that comes with the QuickTime bellhousing. This gives you some play when its connected on the fork unless you press the springs closer together. I had an issue with it popping off when I was adjusting the clutch. A huge pain as I had to pull the engine out to fix it. I would either try and find a pivot ball without this indentation or go with a Centerforce clutch.
The one big mistake I made in the build was when I attached the transmission to the engine. I underestimated how heavy the TKO is and how tight of a fit it is with the engine. Pulling and installing the transmission on my 64 MGB was easy, slide right on every time no issues. First time I installed it on the roadster engine, I lifted it on my own and really had to push/rock it to get it to close into the engine. It was really tough and a tight fit. In the process I think I knocked the fork off one of the springs holding the pivot ball and I got some noise in the go-cart stage. Probably made easier from the issue I mentioned above. In any event I had to pull the engine and trans out fix this. I certainly got some good practice at putting the engine in and out along with installing the tranny. In any event, the second time I reinstalled the transmission I took some longer bolts, cut the heads off, narrowed them a little on the end and screwed them into the bellhousing. I used these as guides so the transmission lined up right from the start and stayed that way even as you push it on. I found this really helped and wished I would have done it the first time.
The other thing I would do differently is when you have the rolling chassis. Set the ride height up correctly here with how you want it just before the car goes to the body shop. Mine wasn’t set even and I had it set a little high thinking it would settle it was also easier to jack the car up that way. It went to the body shop not at the right height so a little adjusting had to be done to get the body just right.
I did leather door panels and glad I have the pockets in there. Perfect place to put my cell phone and now a mask! I didn’t do cup holders; I don’t miss them. I like the clean look of the black leather on trans cover.
I used the Watson Streetworks Billet Dash LED indicator lights. I used the small ones. They are great. Bright so you can easily see them during a sunny day. They look great.
Used the Tangent Blind Roll Bar kits, these are really great. You don’t have to drill into roll bar, nor do you see a bolt. Holds them good and tight together. Certainly, recommend these.
I will add more as I think of them.
For anyone on the fence about building one, bite the bullet and do it. For me it was probably the most rewarding project I have completed to date. Now that it’s finished, I actually miss all the research and the build. I highly recommend this to anyone. I will say that driving it is also ton of fun, you get a lot of looks and questions from all types of people!
Be safe n healthy!

[edwardb]

Great update! Congrats on the 2K mile mark. Glad to hear it's working out for you without any issues and that you're having a good time driving it. My 20th (#3) is almost to 7K miles. Still absolutely love driving it, although it has to compete with the Coupe now for drive time. Be safe and stay well.

[Paul Mischenko]

3600 Mile update - Hope everyone had a great driving season and you and your families are safe and healthy. Currently 70 in NY, so got some great drives in last few days!! Car has been driving great, lots of fun. However I do really miss the building, that was a great release and a fun challenge. One of the the gauges I added was an oil temp gauge, had them weld in a bung in back left top of oil pan beside the dipstick. Speed Hut matched my 20th Ann gauges. Works really well, and is a really clean install. Glad I did this. I received a clock with the 20th Ann kit. I added it to the custom competition dash I did to the right of the speedo. I like the look of the dash, however I never use the clock. Also I use the batter cut off switch as security as well so it cuts all the power. I did install a jumper fuse but didn't want any drain on the battery even if it was small. Plus I always wear a watch so I wouldn't install the clock if I had the choice again. Stereo is debated, I enjoy having it, even if you can't hear it too clearly with the side pipes, nice to have for my 90 min rides, plus kids like it. Something I am looking for is clear type plastic to cover the metal strap adjusters on the seat belts. You have to be really careful when taking the belt off not to catch the top of the door, or the polished door sills...outside of just being careful, if anyone has an idea please let me know... For my engine Roush has the idle at 950, that was pretty lumpy when stopped, I adjusted it up slightly to 1000/1050, which is better. The wind wings and visors work well and have stayed in place. As mentioned above I really like the integrated mirrors. I installed a dead pedal and enjoy having it. Nice place to rest your foot, I installed it pretty much level with the clutch. Took some nice photos today and video which I will post next.

[Paul Mischenko]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137303&d=1604774687
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[Railroad]

Congrats on your build completion. I have #15 of the 20th Anniversary roadsters.
Hopefully all I lack is Jeff K doing his magic.
Looking forward to posting some completed pics too.

[edwardb]

Awesome pics and congrats on a great driving season and miles. One suggestion for the shoulder belts. Agree the outside ones can wreak havoc on the paint. Suggestion: Always swing them to the inside of the car. I got in the habit of doing that myself, e.g. always swinging the belt over my head and behind me to the inside. And instruct my riders to the same.

[Paul Mischenko]

Been a while since I've updated. I hope everyone is healthy and doing well. Weather is finally nice in NY and got the Cobra out last weekend for a nice drive. One thing I noticed when putting it away for the winter was a small leak, traced it back to the drivers side valve cover. Did read previously that others with Roush engines had this problem. Tightened it up, which seems to have addressed the issue. For winter storage I've used the Race Ramp curve blocks for under the tires. Pretty pleased with these. Easy to use and no flat spots on the tires at all. I also bought their blocks to set the tires on when working on the car. They work well too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146022&d=1618088866

[Paul Mischenko]

One other thing I'm really happy with is the body work and paint. For anyone in the Northeast I highly recommend Ron Randal at Metal-Morphous. He wasn't quick but I haven't washed or polished the car in 2 years since getting the body back. I have only used a spray detailer to make sure I remove any bugs or little dirt marks. The shine is still there and I get a full clear reflection all around the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146023&d=1618088877

[Paul Mischenko]

I had originally bought the seat tracks but decided not to use them. I'm 6'0 and 180lbs, I set the seat almost as far back as I could allowing for a little space for carpet etc... I'm happy with the seating position and the angle of the seats. I used the leather seats which came with the 20th anniversary kit, they are great. I placed the fire extinguisher in a similar spot to Paul B. It's great, not once has it caused any interference when shifting, plus I think it looks good on the back wall between the seats. I did turn the shifter around on the TKO600 to move it a little forward. I remember before I made the decision to buy a kit, I read many build posts. While the level of customization can raise the build difficulty, I am really happy I made the decision to build it. Spending 4 years on the build and seeing and enjoying the outcome I am super happy I did it. So for anyone on the fence, do it, it's an amazing experience and very rewarding once you are done. The only downside once you finish is I miss all the time spent building! Wishing everyone happiness, good health and a great driving season ahead. Cheers!

[BadAsp427]

Looks fantastic.

[CobraboyDR]

This is one of the most superior FFR builds I have seen, especially the details.

Can you share with us the total cost of this level of perfection?

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks very much for the kind words. I do have to thank many of the previous builders that took the time to detail their posts, highlighting again Paul B (edwardb 20th Ann build) and also Tony Zullo from FFR. I had many questions along the way along and challenges / issues which they always were willing to help, so thanks again guys! This forum is really amazing, people are great and was super helpful in the build and with ideas. It really was a lot of fun, not quick taking 4 years, however I wasn't in a hurry and I do really miss the build now, but driving it is certainly fun. Regarding the cost, I did tell my wife a ballpark # and she was shocked and still brings it up! So I would suggest not making that mistake, I became obsessed with the build, down to finding the exact matching hardware...Without putting an exact number on it I'm in for over $75k, main items were 20th Ann kit + IRS which was $31.5k, Roush 427 SR Polished was $20k, TKO600/Tires $4k, Options/hardware around $20k + body/paint. Lots of SS hardware from McMaster and I still have quite a collection now as a lot was trial an error. I certainly could have done it cheaper, but as mentioned it became a real focus for me. Thanks again to all for nice comments.

[GoDadGo]

Without putting an exact number on it I'm in for over $75k, main items were 20th Ann kit + IRS which was $31.5k, Roush 427 SR Polished was $20k, TKO600/Tires $4k, Options/hardware around 20k, + body work/paint. .

Definitly Worth Every Penny & Every Hour Spent Building It!

[Paul Mischenko]

Another option I chose to go with was the windshield side plates. I got the aluminum ones from replica parts. I think they gave a little more finished look. Ron my painted had mentioned that they had turned them around so the screw wasn't on the outside. I'm not a fan of the screw on the outside and like the more finished look so went with it. Everything is held in place so they don't flop around as the windshield gasket pushes down on them. To fill the little hole on the inside I got a tiny ss screw and used some clear silicon to hold it into place. 2+ years now and no issues at all.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148837&d=1622490076

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148838&d=1622490076

[Paul Mischenko]

2yr - 4,700 Mile update. Had an amazing drive in NYS today, weather was just perfect mid 70's! It never gets boring going for my weekend drives. I have a pretty good route now that takes me about 90 minutes which some decent roads as long as I don't get many cars in front of me. Regarding the bigger options on my build. The stereo is one that comes up and is debated. I can say I'm glad I did it. The sound isn't great competing with the side pipes but it nice to have in the background on my drives. For those looking more for audiofile quality not sure you will get that in these cars, but for sure I would add front speakers, I didn't. The bluetooth receiver works pretty well and everything is hidden except for the speaker which I think don't look too out of place. The next big option was power steering. I'm 50/50 on this one. Given the power in the car my original setup I felt was way too loose feeling in the front. I put a more restrictive valve on the power steering pump and let a couple of pounds psi front the front and now its much better. The setup took a lot of time to plan out and wasn't cheap, not to mention there is only about an inch or 2 of clearance from the steering rack where my pump sits. I didn't add an oil cooler. I do have a fan shroud, replica parts radiator panel and marks radiator cowl. I've driven the car when it was 95+ out and never gets over 185, oil temp max is 220. So I certainly don't think you need it. It does look cool though I think. I added an oil temp gauge, had a bung welded in the driver side rear top of the pan and had speedhut match my 20th gauge, I like having this, so would recommend adding. The clock on the other hand I never use. With the power cut of switch I actually turn all the power off, I did install a 5am by-pass fuse to originally keep the clock going but just don't use it. I think the dash looks cool with it in, it's a little unique, but it's not functional. For the tranny I went with a TKO-600, I got it from Liberty Gear with their upgraded syncros. I went .64 for the 5th gear. I have to say I rarely use it, you need to be over 85 mph for it to make sense so that is maybe something I would change if I had to redo it. So far I had a very minor leak for the driver side valve cover, just tightened the bolts, so far so good. I now have a minor squeak when I go over a bump, I checked the car over and everything seems tight, I'm thinking it may be the drivers side pipe, but that is yet TBD. Outside of that the car drives great, I get a ton of responses and questions which is always fun. Something that I will never regret going. So if you're on the fence, just buy the kit and take your time you won't regret it!

[Christopher]

Now this is a nice detailed list and beautiful car.

[Paul Mischenko]

Amazing weekend in NY for driving 68-70 both days so got some great drives in.
I still can't seem to nail down exactly where the squeaking is coming from when I hit a bump. I've greased all the fittings multiple times. It's a bit odd. On some drives its worse than others and some I don't hear it.
Did the upper A arm fittings many times, greases comes out both ends. From what I hear its both in front and rear, but I could be wrong. Tough to really tell while driving and with the side pipes. I think this is going to have to be a winter project when I take some stuff apart. Season is almost over here.

Also had my first part fail, it was a Lucas toggle switch I use on the dash to power my bluetooth receiver. I have the full underdash panel and while its solid, it's going to be a pain to get the switch out and replace it as a bunch of stuff will have to come off. In hindsight if I were to do the dash again I would just use individual support pieces so I could replace a switch or reach behind. I did a custom Acton dash which is really solid so think the underdash panel was overkill. I installed some LED lighting along the full underdash panel but I haven't used it once, so I don't think its needed.

In the interim I bought a bluetooth speaker that sits just in front of my battery cut off switch. $70 bucks, 22 watts and it sounds almost as good as the 400 watt JL system I have just behind me. I guess that the benefit of the speakers being in front vs behind. Anyone looking for a cheap stereo option which won't change the car at all get one of these bluetooth speakers.

Got this shirt below from my wife for my birthday. I guess she is ok with all the time I spent building the car!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153817&d=1632696486

[BadAsp427]

Amazing weekend in NY for driving 68-70 both days so got some great drives in.
I still can't seem to nail down exactly where the squeaking is coming from when I hit a bump. I've greased all the fittings multiple times. It's a bit odd. On some drives its worse than others and some I don't hear it.

Here is what I had going on with mine... CLICK HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29472-Carl-s-20th-Anniversary-8690-Graduated-12-000-miles&p=374037&viewfull=1#post374037)

[Paul Mischenko]

Excellent, thanks for sharing that and your solution, that's the first place I'm going to look!

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks very much for the suggestion BadAsp427! Only took a couple hrs yesterday. Did one strap at a time. Noticed it was rubbing the gas tank in the rear and there were also some spots it was rubbing the plastic. Used some of rubber fuel line and slit it down the middle to go over the gas tank. I did 3 of these, both rears and the passenger front also seemed to be making contact. I also had some very thin hard rubber with 3m on the back that I put on the metal gas tank strap in places that it seemed to be rubbing. Nice fall day today in NY so a great day for a drive. Squeak is gone, so fingers crossed that was it. A much easier fix than to start taking apart the suspension. I would recommend anyone doing their built now just to address this when you install the tank, no point in waiting till later if its an issue. I did have to order a longer bolt, 3" on the passenger side as the rubber hose pulls the strap down a bit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154543&d=1634499406
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[Paul Mischenko]

Took the cobra to a gathering Caffein and Carburetors. Was a great 50 min to drive to get there and car got lots of attention which is always fun. I have about 6k miles on the car. Not sure if I mentioned in a previous post but I had one of the Lucas type toggle switches fail on my dash, this one controlled power to the bluetooth receiver under the dash and hence the stereo. As an interim last year I bought a portable speaker that just sits on passenger seat if I wanted any music. I have to say this portable speaker does a great job. If I had to do my build over I would skip the installed stereo and just use this 40w portable speaker. Cost was like $60 bucks vs a few thousand and a lot of work. I also used the full under-dash panel. While this is more solid it makes a simple thing like changing a switch a much bigger issues. If I were to do over I would put some access panels along the bottom or just use brackets similar to what Paul B did. For those planning their build, as we can customize I would recommend thinking through how you will access parts should they need to be replaced. I spent a lot of time planning, but seems I should have spent a little more time thinking about this. I was glad to have solved the squeaking sound last year with a easy fix. So this year just the other day I noticed a random and odd winning noise when letting the clutch out of first gear. Doesn't happen all the time, just the odd time. One thing I remember was reading in one of Paul B's posts the need to adjust the slave push rod to ensure there is some slack. I have yet to do this and when I checked it was tight. So took off the slave removed the pushrod and adjusted it in about 1/8" and this seemed to give me the play back with everything at rest. I was hoping this would possibly fix this random noise but no luck, happened yesterday at the end of a 40 min drive and again today just getting to the gathering. Confirmed I have full oil in tranny and I don't seem to have any leaks in the hydraulic clutch system. I had some issues during the build of the fork coming loose and I had to pull the engine and trans twice in a week to fix. I'm really hoping I won't have to do the same here as with the body and car finished I imagine this will be much harder. Wonder if anyone else has experienced a similar issue? Only seemed to happen coming out of 1st gear. Pretty random and rare. If it happens, it would happen again right after, but then after up to speed it could be fine the next time I start off again.

[Paul Mischenko]

Been a while since I have posted. Weather so far this summer in NY hasn't been great lots of rain. But this past weekend was amazing. Mid 70's and perfect weather for a few drives. Still absolutely love driving the car. Took it to a car gathering a few Sundays ago and lots of attention. For anyone sitting on the fence, build one, it will be the best thing you ever do! Only issue I've had so far this year was one of the header to side exhaust bolts came loose, used double metal lock nuts this time so hopefully that will do it, but something I check now! Added a new accessory this past weekend!

217202

[edwardb]

Hey Paul. Great to hear from you and that you're still enjoying your car. I like the flag!

[MaxVmo]

Wow! What a build! Congratulations!

[Paul Mischenko]

Wow. I see you’re on another Ann build. I will have to take a look. I think I miss the build almost as much as driving!