requesting pictures of dashes

[J Bell]

Would like to request those who have completed their builds to post pics of the dash. I'm unsure of where I want to place my gauges and I'm also thinking of adding some design to the dash. I got to look at Jetheft's cobra last night and I really dig the extra dash work he put into his. I would post a pic for those who do not know but I haven't hit 20 post to be approved.

[Gumball]

Slightly modified version of the traditional S/C layout, as those didn't have glove boxes originally.

I made the glove box myself and the dash is covered with automotive grade (i.e., UV protected) leather with no padding.

https://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172844286_zpsnitwfdgs.jpg (https://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172844286_zpsnitwfdgs.jpg.html)

[skidd]

I built my dash from a blank. My fav feature is the aeronautical switch guards.

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20190719_170639_595.jpg (https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/albums/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20190719_170639.jpg)

[johnnybgoode]

I re-did mine in a finished car several years ago. Scott

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[CDXXVII]

Here is mine. Based on the competition dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110911&d=1563580292

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110912&d=1552097702

[2bking]

You said you might want to add some design to your dash. Mines very functional and very not traditional.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110914&d=1563582628

[David Hodgkins]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49201&d=1451252652

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92416&d=1535842673

:)

[MisterAdam]

Carbon fiber with copper inlays
110915

[silver_pilate]

Standard FFR layout on their formed composite dash works well for me. With my height, I see right down clearly through the steering wheel to the tach and speedometer.

https://i.imgur.com/xQUZhnx.jpg

[edwardb]

I'll play. Modified competition layout starting with a blank FFR dash. With Speedhut gauges, homemade glovebox, all hidden mountings, under dash courtesy lights and auxiliary power ports. The leather seats that came with the 20th Anniversary edition Roadster inspired me to do an all leather interior. Dash, center console, and door cards are all from one automotive grade leather hide with 1/8-inch closed cell padding.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3863_zpsgutwqoct.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3863_zpsgutwqoct.jpg.html)

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1180_zpsbwemc7x9.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1180_zpsbwemc7x9.jpg.html)

[Fixit]

Here ya go...
Based on the SC layout, using the FFR blank. "Pleather" over 1/8" foam.

Custom glovebox (for heater clearance) made from fiberglass.

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[Ponymedic]

Still in the mockup stage. The vertical thing is folding cupholder from a saab 9-5 that I stole from another guy110963

[phileas_fogg]

I set my seat & wheel in place, and then used paper cutouts to get the sight lines exactly the way I wanted them. I covered the dash in 3M 1080 vinyl with a carbon fiber pattern, which is not particularly glossy. If you use the 1080, (1) paint the underlying aluminum to match the color of whatever vinyl you use; that way if you nick the vinyl while installing a switch the imperfection won't be obvious, and (2) let the vinyl set up for a week or so before populating the dash. The 1080 needs some time to "cure" to full hardness.


John

https://live.staticflickr.com/4305/35455976474_e44a9e377b_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W289xd)IMG_3514 (https://flic.kr/p/W289xd) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/4306/36248648136_c7871f2bf1_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XeaNd1)IMG_3561 (https://flic.kr/p/XeaNd1) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[Vspeeds]

I mocked up my dash gauges by taking a photo with my phone and printing the gauges in the proper size. Then I laminated the photos and placed them on the dashboard so I could sit in the driver seat and make sure I could see them properly. I used the Semi-Comp (SC) dash setup and modified it a little. While sitting in the seat I was able to place the gauges exactly where I liked them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110987&d=1563727830

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110994&d=1563727857

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103973&d=1552891519

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103972&d=1552891507

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110995&d=1563728316

[J Bell]

Slightly modified version of the traditional S/C layout, as those didn't have glove boxes originally.

I made the glove box myself and the dash is covered with automotive grade (i.e., UV protected) leather with no padding.

https://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172844286_zpsnitwfdgs.jpg (https://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172844286_zpsnitwfdgs.jpg.html)

Gum ball,

Would
You happen to have more pics of how you made the glovebox door and pocket?

[Corsair343]

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s182/corsair343/HPIM2091.jpg (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/corsair343/media/HPIM2091.jpg.html)
Standard s/c layout

[Big Blocker]

https://i.postimg.cc/4xpg9yzW/PB100005-Re-Size.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

MK-II

Doc

[Zots]

In my 289 USRRC, when I installed the A/C I had to relocate the speedometer, which left a hole in the dash...what to do? I tried a faux glovebox door but I did not like the location it had to be to cover the hole. So...I ordered a bezel from SpeedHut and mounted the FFR badge recessed into a piece of the dash material. I thought about inserting the AC steeering wheel emblem but I like the Factory Five emblem...and after all, it is a Factory Five and I am proud to have built it. I still might swap it out with the AC emblem...an easy swap. Or maybe use it as a picture frame!
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[clancypm]

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[SSNK4US]

Haven’t done ours yet, but I’m afraid the the competition setup is gonna put the speedo to close to my wife! :cool:

Kurt

[Race Ratz]

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[J Bell]

111054

111055

Thats the first time I have seen someone paint the dash to go along with the car. Well done sir.

[J Bell]

So reviewing everyone's dash pics, I see toggle switches and I can see up to 4 or 5 toggles.... What all do they control?

hazards, high/low beam, wipers, and what other toggles are there for? How difficult is it to change over to a push button?

[Vspeeds]

[QUOTE=
hazards, high/low beam, wipers, and what other toggles are there for? How difficult is it to change over to a push button?[/QUOTE]

Like you mentioned, those are what Im using them for with additional toggles for driver and passenger foot box fans, manual radiator fan, 2 rockers for seat heaters, horn pushbutton, knob for headlight switch, and knob for panel light dimmer.

To change over to pushbutton should be easy as long as they are not too long. It should be a matter of just drilling out the correct size diameter hole in the dash.

[J Bell]

I see the center dash support is an option. Does the dash vibrate our bounce when driving and that's why this is an added option?

[Gumball]

Sure thing - here you go....

This is a link to my glovebox "how to" and below are a bunch of detail pics of building the box and lid.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?5303-Glove-box-quot-How-To-quot&highlight=glovebox

[Gumball]

Underdash supports are something that is a vestige from the original cars - there were a couple of tubes that ran from behind the top of the dash all the way down to the main chassis tubes - and they were exposed between the dash and the transmission tunnel. Many builders opt to add the supports to mimic the original cars. I used mine to run the speed cable up to the back of the speedometer and the other contains some wiring - specifically for the seat heaters.

My gauges are Smiths mechanical (with a couple being electric) throughout - oil pressure, coolant temp, tach, oil temp, voltage, fuel, and speedo.

The myriad of lights, switches and knobs on my dash are for the following - from left to right.

Ignition switch (reproduction '65 Ford part with red "charge" light above it - from FFR)
Cold air pull for foot box vent (one at both far outboard positions on the dash)
Two silver metal push-buttons are horn and windshield squirter pump
Blue hi-beam indicator (from FFR)
Single green directional flasher light (from FFR)
Headights (reproduction '65 Ford)
Lighter (reproduction '65 Ford)
Toggles for cooling fan override (it's thermostatically actuated, though) and 4-way flashers
Windshield wipers
Heater
Choke (now abandoned, as carb no longer has choke function due to a high-performance blueprinting job)
Map lamp and switch

Not really visible are the Russ Thompson turn signal switch that is on the right side of the steering wheel, the hi-beam switch ('65 Ford reproduction part foot switch on the floor), under-dash 12v power outlet, and the seat heater switches (on the side under each seat).

Lots of stuff going on in a very small area!!!

[Robert 2006]

Leather with real snake skin over 1/8-inch foam. 5 center gauges have tipped bezels.
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[cgundermann]

Another real carbon fiber -

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Chris

[grluisi150]

Moved all switches to console, only Gauges, indicator lights and push button start on dash. The space to the right of the Tach is for my cell phone (epoxied a super magnet in dash to hold phone), enjoy

[Ducky2009]

I made a blank dash (with 3/32" material vs stock .040") and rearranged the gauges as many others did (competition dash). With the stiffer dash and an aluminum brace plate (3/32") approx 12" wide, mounted in the center above the tunnel from the dash to the frame, makes the dash pretty solid. The firewall is 3/32" too, to add some stiffness, needed because of the large hole for the heater push-out box.

I also made a heater push-out box (2 1/4" out) and made a glove box. Mine is welded together, but could easily be a riveted assembly. With the push-out, the glove box is 3" deep at the top and 4" at the bottom.

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[Sdonnel]

I went the path of the competition dash with a little twist. Real Carbon fiber that is currently getting clearcoated. Speedhut Revolution Gauges with all billet push buttons. Headlight switch and ignition key are on home made dash supports under the dash. Seeing that all the gauges are programmable with LED warning lights, I decided to center the auxiliary gauges around the speedo in the center. High beam indicator and turn signals are integral to the GPS speedometer as well.

Scott111150

[RR20AC]

Preformed dash. Set up just like the manual says. Extra box between the dash support the factory offers with a bias adjuster, electric steering adjuster, clock adjust, GPS speedo adjust, and electric plugs for phone.

[J Bell]

Moved all switches to console, only Gauges, indicator lights and push button start on dash. The space to the right of the Tach is for my cell phone (epoxied a super magnet in dash to hold phone), enjoy

Your pic or pics did not attach but I'd like to see your setup.

[J Bell]

Moved all switches to console, only Gauges, indicator lights and push button start on dash. The space to the right of the Tach is for my cell phone (epoxied a super magnet in dash to hold phone), enjoy


Preformed dash. Set up just like the manual says. Extra box between the dash support the factory offers with a bias adjuster, electric steering adjuster, clock adjust, GPS speedo adjust, and electric plugs for phone.

I'm not able to see your pics as well.

[J Bell]

Moved all switches to console, only Gauges, indicator lights and push button start on dash. The space to the right of the Tach is for my cell phone (epoxied a super magnet in dash to hold phone), enjoy


Preformed dash. Set up just like the manual says. Extra box between the dash support the factory offers with a bias adjuster, electric steering adjuster, clock adjust, GPS speedo adjust, and electric plugs for phone.


I made a blank dash (with 3/32" material vs stock .040") and rearranged the gauges as many others did. With the stiffer dash and an aluminum brace plate (3/32") approx 12" wide, mounted in the center above the tunnel from the dash to the frame, makes the dash pretty solid. The firewall is 3/32" too, to add some stiffness, needed because of the large hole for the push-out box.

I also made a heater push-out box (2 1/4" out) and made a glove box. Mine is welded together, but could easily be a riveted assembly. With the push-out, the glove box is 3" deep at the top and 4" at the bottom.

111147 111148 111149

So by pushing the heater box in more into the engine bay as you did allowed for you to creat a deeper glove box correct? The way you made your glove box is how I planned to make mine. All aluminum. I have access to metal fab shop.

[Straversi]

Competition dash covered in leather with home made glove box. Ignition on the left, Russ Thompson turn signal lever with horn button on the stalk. Single malfunction Indicator light above steering wheel, turn signal and high beam indicator lights in speedometer. Head light pull with high beam toggle above. Seat fan knobs and foot box fan toggles above. Battery cut-off, fuel pump kill toggle and hazard toggle with switch guards in the panel below the dash, through the firewall. Seat heater switches are mounted on seat mounting brackets out of sight.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93814&d=1537383179

-Steve

[RobCYoung]

Carbon Fibre dash FFR used to sell. Quality was not that good with some flaws so after I had two sent to me I laminated them together and polished them and the dash came out pretty well. Console is mad out of 1/8" alum sheet riveted together and laminated with Sapele wood and carbon fibre sheeting.
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[RobCYoung]

Carbon Fibre dash FFR used to sell. Quality was not that good with some flaws so after I had two sent to me I laminated them together and polished them and the dash came out pretty well. Console is mad out of 1/8" alum sheet riveted together and laminated with Sapele wood and carbon fibre sheeting.
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[Ducky2009]

So by pushing the heater box in more into the engine bay as you did allowed for you to creat a deeper glove box correct? The way you made your glove box is how I planned to make mine. All aluminum. I have access to metal fab shop.

Correct... This allowed for a deeper glove box. Notice the difference... 3" top, 4" bottom. The heater has an angled backface. I have a 1/8" "consistent" gap, which was enough space to add some insulation. After shaping the glove box, I added a lip and bolted it to the dash using flat head screws. I drilled holes in the dash and inserted flat head screw (Backed up with a steel block, drilled and counter-sunk large enough) and hammered the screw to form the counter sink shape in the dash, allowing the screw head to be flush to the face of the dash.

ALSO: You'll need a 4-way valve for the heater. It allows water to flow through the heater when open, and circulate from left to right head (needed per Ford) when closed. You can find it on Amazon or most auto parts store. P/N 74809 Had to make an angle bracket to mount it to the firewall.

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