Non Vented Brake Reservoirs

[Railroad]

I am communicating with FFR about my hyd reservoirs (3) leaking around the neck.
I have 1 for the front, 1 for the rear brakes and 1 for the clutch. They all 3 are leaking around the neck. I have read about this issue prior to mine manifesting itself, just now go carting.
My caps are also unvented.
Since I may or may not end up using the leaking reservoirs, I wanted to let others know my plans to vent the caps.
Small engine shops, lawn mowers, etc have a part called a duck valve. It has butterfly lips that will vent one way. It is made of a silicone like rubber and is less than 1/4" in diameter.
I have plans to drill into the side of the reservoir cap, then drill an intersecting passage from the bottom. The duck bill valve will be installed and secured in the side passage.
This valve will let air in, only under an internal vacuum.
I paid 2.39 for the valve at the local shop, probably buy 10 of them off the net for that price.
I did drop mine in a container of brake fluid, so far, so good.
The one I bought looks like the OD green ones at this site.
Hope this helps those stuck with the old bad design reservoirs. I think it will be the perfect mod to prevent issues.

https://www.google.com/search?q=small+engine+duck+valve&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj0wsKpia7jAhVBZ80KHcNkAkwQ_AUIECgB&biw=1280&bih=584

[SSNK4US]

Cool idea. Keeps fluid in and doesn’t create a vacuum in the reservoir. But.... it’s not a sealed system with a collapsible type membrane in it. It still brings in outside air/moisture. Thoughts everybody?

Kurt

[Railroad]

Cool idea. Keeps fluid in and doesn’t create a vacuum in the reservoir. But.... it’s not a sealed system with a collapsible type membrane in it. It still brings in outside air/moisture. Thoughts everybody?

Kurt

True, not the best arrangement, but maybe next to it for what we have.
We used to have a local motorcycle junk yard. I had thought some of the handlebar brake reservoirs may have the right size accordion baffle to use. I had a Honda 750 and just from memory, it would be the first I would try.

[Avalanche325]

I would try to find something that won't let air in. I would look for a bellows seal that fits the existing cap, or bite the bullet and buy different reservoirs.

[Railroad]

I would try to find something that won't let air in. I would look for a bellows seal that fits the existing cap, or bite the bullet and buy different reservoirs.

Thanks

[initiator]

As I'm working through the long process of getting my brakes properly bled, I'm starting to see leaking around my reservoir necks, too - old-style sealed FF versions. Somehow I've missed the previous conversations about this being a known problem. Thanks to Papa, I think I'm going to go this direction.

https://www.scottshotrods.com/remote-reservoirs/

[Avalanche325]

As I'm working through the long process of getting my brakes properly bled, I'm starting to see leaking around my reservoir necks, too - old-style sealed FF versions. Somehow I've missed the previous conversations about this being a known problem. Thanks to Papa, I think I'm going to go this direction.

https://www.scottshotrods.com/remote-reservoirs/

Look at the size of these. 1.1oz. Little mini-reservoirs. That's literally a shot glass in reserve. I just switched over to a hydraulic clutch, so went looking for a 3 reservoir set. I almost ordered these until I saw the size. I wanted more capacity than that.

"Everyone" used to use CNC, which is out of business. I scoured the internet, made several phone calls, and found someone that has some triples. Several sites have them listed, but not in stock. www.kartek.com had 8 left a couple months ago. No doubles. I have a double that came off of my car that I am going sell. It even has a polished AL mounting bracket and the fittings and hoses from the triple kit. Just been too lazy to put it in the classifieds.

Then there is Jamar Performance that has one that looks sort of like the CNC, but with a too modern for me logo.

I actually bought 3 Moss Motors Girling replicas. They looked really vintage - cool. But, I ended up sending them back. They were too original. The decals come off if you look at them too hard and 1 cap froze up the first time I installed it. Not even cross-threaded. Just like the originals.

[DANW]

110572
Scott’s hot rod reservoir is what I used. Had them send me an extra cap that I installed a hose barb on and used it to pressure bleed the system.
Dan

[BadAsp427]

It is my understanding that you DO NOT want outside air going in with the brake fluid as the fluid will absorb the moisture in the air and then you could have a lower boiling point of the fluid. Also, if that valve is a one way valve, then you could very likely have your brakes dragging a lot as as it suck air in, it will slowly pressurize the reservoir thus not allow your brakes to retract as they should. I have the very same reservoir on mine and about once a month during my normal detailing/cleaning, I do have a little moisture around the top of the reservoir under the cap. Not dripping, just evident that it is there. I simply wipe it off as I polish them. I've checked my levels several times and so far I have never seen a lowering of the fluid. I have them both filled up to about 1/4 inch from the top of the canister. (not from the top of the threads) I do have some anti-seize on the threads and I do tighten them pretty tight, but I've never had to use any kind of mechanical assistance to open them, just my hand with a rag on the top. Not sure if this will help in your decisions going forward.

[Railroad]

FFR agreed to replace mine, due to leaking at the neck. The new ones are supposed to have the baffle gasket under the cap. I had to pay shipping? I have encountered the same on shipping on other replacement parts. I just pay it rather than get into a debate.
I am sure the replacement parts mount differently. I have a good bit of time in drilling, tapping and mounting the original reservoirs. It takes some time to insure they are parallel and the same height.
Anyway on to the second set.

[BadAsp427]

FFR agreed to replace mine, due to leaking at the neck. The new ones are supposed to have the baffle gasket under the cap. I had to pay shipping? I have encountered the same on shipping on other replacement parts. I just pay it rather than get into a debate.
I am sure the replacement parts mount differently. I have a good bit of time in drilling, tapping and mounting the original reservoirs. It takes some time to insure they are parallel and the same height.
Anyway on to the second set.

Awesome... Yes, I've paid a few shipping charges as well... Still better than full price.

[Tree]

Huh, I just gave up on buying another reservoir from FFR and ordered a Willwood reservoir for Summit this morning. The part is listed as out of stock on FFR's website and when I called a little over three weeks ago they told me 2 weeks. Yesterday I called again and they told me two months. I have been waiting to get another reservoir to finish my brakes. With you going 0 for 3 on them, I wonder if I just waisted some money. I know some builders have been using the Tilton triple reservoirs which I have not seen any issue with but they are a plastic instead of metal.

[JRL16]

I used the triple reservoir from Scotts Hot Rods in my Mk4. They are smaller than the CNC reservoir but still have enough capacity to get the job done. I mounted an aluminum plate to the side of the foot box and mounted them there. Had the CNC reservoirs at first but they hit the valve cover. Scott's reservoir clears it just enough. No leaks and working well for 2 years now.