Replacing the fuel pump on my MKIII - On the road again! [Archive]

David Hodgkins

06-29-2019, 10:05 PM

My fuel pump is kaput. I am starting the process of replacing it and have a few questions:

I have a full tank of gas. Is siphoning my only option to lose some fuel? If so I guess I should buy som surgical tubing and try not to inhale gas?

Is cutting an access hole an option or am I asking for an explosion? Is covering the tank with a moving blanket before cutting wit a dreamer an option?

If I do cut I’ll need measurements. Does anyone have them handy?

If I cut, should first remove the tank entirely? Would the existing exposed gas line become a hazard at that point?

Any other issues I should consider?

:)

frankeeski

06-29-2019, 10:11 PM

Just tried calling you. I have some advice and I think I have a couple fuel pumps if you are in need.

Boydster

06-30-2019, 05:52 AM

Its just like doing it in the mustang that the tank was designed for. Hopefully, with no access panels, you left the lines and electrical loose enough to drop the tank.

Either siphon a bunch of gas out or get a few friends to help balance it on a jack and a piece of wood. Undo the filler and the straps and lower it down, detaching the fuel lines and the electrical as soon as you can access them.

I know an access panel breaks up all that beautiful metal, but with a panel, the whole job would take about 30 minutes. Maybe put one in while the tank is out?

[edit: that tank, when full, is about 100 lbs and really, really awkward. Make sure you get help.]

CraigS

06-30-2019, 06:23 AM

I agree w/ Boyd the tank is especially awkward w/ gas in it. I ran mine down to 1/4 tank when I wanted to remove it and I am not sure that is better. Turns out that with just a one degree slope, as you maneuver it, all the gas runs to one side. Now it's awkward and unbalanced. Mine slid off the small piece of plywood I had on the floor jack pad and came out of the car real fast. So I'd cut an access hole first. Your tank filler is capped. Do you have a hose coming off the tank vent? If so plug it temporarily. If not install one and plug it. I would do it at zero dark thirty so the gas is as cold as it will get and giving off the least amount of vapor. For in place aluminum I really like my multi tool
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Multi-Max-3-5-Amp-Variable-Speed-Corded-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Kit-with-12-Accessories-and-Storage-Bag-MM35-01/305884644
I use a half round blade installed about 45 degress so a lot of it's cutting edge is on the side. I find I can cut super straight lines this way.

boat737

06-30-2019, 07:47 AM

For siphoning, by far, hands down, the greatest invention ever. (Why didn't I think of it.).

https://smile.amazon.com/SUYIZN-Siphon-Shaker-Gallons-Minute/dp/B01N9U7T4H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=siphon+hose&qid=1561898533&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Stick the ball bearing end in the tank, shake it up and down a few times, (I know, pretty suggestive...) and WAH-LAH! Gas flows out.

GoDadGo

06-30-2019, 08:10 AM

David,

After you Yank-Da-Tank and have access to the locking ring remember to use a Brass Rod if you need to knock/tap that sucker loose.
Sparks suck and a partially full gas tank is a bomb as we all know and we don't you to go up in smoke like the fireworks that we'll be blowing up on Thursday.

Steve

David Hodgkins

06-30-2019, 09:24 AM

Thanks guys. And thank for the lead on the siphon. They sell this at my local pep boys so I’ll pick one up today.

I agree that I’m dealing with a potentially explosive situation so I’m not going to cut the access hole with the tank n the car. I will report back after it is dropped. If I do cut it after I might need some measurements from those who have the hole cut at the factory.

Thanks,

:)

SJDave

06-30-2019, 09:31 AM

Have a couple fire extinguishers at the ready with another friend standing by just in case.
Move the car outside
Don't forget to disconnect the battery
Wear only natural fibers clothes...no polyester
A near empty tank is the most dangerous from explosion point of view

Good luck be safe!

Ducky2009

06-30-2019, 03:17 PM

David, the fumes are more dangerous then liquid gas. You can light a small open container of gas and it will burn like a candle. A closed container of fumes is like a hand grenade. As Steve (Go-Dad-Go) said use brass to not have a spark.

As SJDave said - do it outside.

Is cutting an access hole an option-----NO

David Hodgkins

06-30-2019, 10:44 PM

Today I managed to CAREFULLY drop the tank:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109881&d=1561951063

Then I disassembled the pump from the carrier:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109889&d=1561952207

The screen was a lot dirtier than I anticipated. How do I clean it?

One thing I could not figure out was how to get the filter off the bottom of the pump. I didn't want to force it. Do these pumps look compatible to you?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109891&d=1561952236

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109892&d=1561952251

:)

i.e.427

06-30-2019, 11:20 PM

The screen was a lot dirtier than I anticipated. How do I clean it?

One thing I could not figure out was how to get the filter off the bottom of the pump. I didn't want to force it. Do these pumps look compatible to you?

:)

The screen is disposable, throw it away. The new pump should have come with a new one. If you want to remove it, a flat blade screwdriver can be used to pry it away from the bottom of the pump.

The pumps look similar. The rubber isolator from the old pump can be fitted around the new pump.

David Hodgkins

06-30-2019, 11:41 PM

Thanks Frank! I didn’t see a new filter. Going outside to check it out now...

:)

David Hodgkins

06-30-2019, 11:50 PM

No filter included with the pump. The screen on the old pump looks like it’s locked on. I’ll call Fortes’s in the am.

:)

Sdonnel

07-02-2019, 09:59 AM

While you've got the tank out, it's time to cut that access hole. Use some nut-serts and make it easy to remove in the future. You'll obviously need some aluminum to make a cover panel, but the good thing is, you get to decide how big to make it rather than using what FFR provides.

Scott

Tree

07-02-2019, 10:14 AM

You can use rubbing alcohol on that screen to clean it up. I would probably just dip it into some and let it sit there for a bit. Good work on getting the tank out. I remember that being awkward when it was empty. I hope to never need to do it with fuel in the tank.

Jetfuel

07-02-2019, 12:24 PM

OK Mr Hodgkins :)
Did you drain the tank or just man handle it full?

David Hodgkins

07-02-2019, 12:36 PM

OK Mr Hodgkins :)
Did you drain the tank or just man handle it full?

Well... I am a Wookie... ;) -jk

I think the tank ended up being less than 1/2 full. Once I got everything loosened up and the fuel lines separated I put a set of jackstands under the tank and had my daughters stablize the tank while I lowered it to the jackstands. At that point I disconnected the electrical for the pump and sender, then I raised it up, pulled the jackstands, and lowered it to the ground, again with the help of my daughters.

From there I muscled it outside and siphoned the gas out using the jiggle siphon mentioned above.

I'm waiting on a new filter from Mike Forte. I might have to cut the rubber isolater bottom because it looks like the pump have different positions at the bottom for the filter. Once I get the filter tomorrow I'll post more pics and an update.

:)

GoDadGo

07-02-2019, 01:11 PM

Well... I am a Wookie... ;) -jk

I think the tank ended up being less than 1/2 full. Once I got everything loosened up and the fuel lines separated I put a set of jackstands under the tank and had my daughters stablize the tank while I lowered it to the jackstands. At that point I disconnected the electrical for the pump and sender, then I raised it up, pulled the jackstands, and lowered it to the ground, again with the help of my daughters.

From there I muscled it outside and siphoned the gas out using the jiggle siphon mentioned above.

I'm waiting on a new filter from Mike Forte. I might have to cut the rubber isolater bottom because it looks like the pump have different positions at the bottom for the filter. Once I get the filter tomorrow I'll post more pics and an update.

:)

The Moral Of The Story:

You Can't Beat Those Wrench Passing, Tool Handing, Ratchet Swinging Tank Grabbing Baby Girls!

David Hodgkins

07-03-2019, 09:20 PM

I received a new fuel pump screen today - Thanks Mike Forte!!

I'd like to create access holes for the sender and pump before reassembling. Can someone supply the measurements? I need width, length, and location info...

Anyone?

:)

i.e.427

07-04-2019, 12:04 AM

RJD

07-04-2019, 05:58 AM

I'm not at home right now so I can't run out to the garage and measure, but perhaps these photos will help you estimate.

110070

110071

Jeff Kleiner

07-04-2019, 09:24 AM

Frank will probably tell you the same but make that hole as large as possible to provide plenty of working room because even when the tank is on the ground it often takes a lot of wiggling and various approach angles (as well as creative swearing) to get the pump and pickup around the internal baffle and into position. Oh, one other thing...don't forget to put the gas back into the tank before you lift it up into place :p

Jeff

Big Blocker

07-04-2019, 02:02 PM

Dave,

Can't agree more . . . make the hole(s) as big as possible, especially for the pump. It needs a lot of "wiggle room" to get it in to the tank if the trunk floor is still above it - pretty simple if the tank is on the floor.

Grease the gasket "O" ring when re-installing the pump mount - use a non-metal drift punch to tighten the retainer ring . . . we don't want any sparks to get to the fumes coming out of the tank during pump install.

Doc

David Hodgkins

07-04-2019, 02:14 PM

I think I'l take all y'alls advice and make it oversized. I pulled the pump from my brother's car and remember what a pain it was. I might try to copy RJD's design. RJD, I like that size you created. Good job!

Doc, thanks for the reminder. I'll take care putting the retainer ring back in.

Now where did I put that flint hammer???

:)

Ray

07-04-2019, 07:36 PM

This is the one BIG reason that I went an external fuel pump!

Ray

David Hodgkins

07-06-2019, 05:30 PM

Today I worked on drilingout the access holes for the fuel pump and the sender. Here are some pics of how I measured and drilled the holes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110245&d=1562451724

2-3/4" from the center of the outer strap, r=then I added an inch and rilled a 4" hole:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110243&d=1562451657

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110241&d=1562451619

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110242&d=1562451637

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110241&d=1562451619

David Hodgkins

07-06-2019, 05:35 PM

Then I added the corners using a 1-1/4 radius drill and cut out the shape:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110240&d=1562451593

Next,I added a 4" hole 17" from the original measurement of the fuel pump hole (minus the 1: offset)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110238&d=1562451551

Big Blocker

07-06-2019, 09:09 PM

As usual, you are showing off your sheet metal working skills . . . the master at work.

Looks GREAT! Dave.

Doc

David Hodgkins

07-07-2019, 05:22 PM

I have a problem:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110328&d=1562537975

The rubber sleeve I'm attempting to use off the old pump has a thick bottom that is preventing me from attaching the filter.

Can I just cut off the bottom of the sleeve?

:)

David Hodgkins

07-07-2019, 08:32 PM

Bad news. After replacing the pump I turned the key to test it and nothing happened. So I’m back to testing the I Squared harness.

:(

weendoggy

07-08-2019, 08:49 AM

Bad news. After replacing the pump I turned the key to test it and nothing happened. So I’m back to testing the I Squared harness.

:(

What made you think the old pump was bad in the first place? Did you test the pump direct before you pulled the old one out?

David Hodgkins

07-08-2019, 09:31 AM

What made you think the old pump was bad in the first place? Did you test the pump direct before you pulled the old one out?

Nope. Live and learn I guess.

I think the relay went bad. There is an indicator light on the board that isn’t lighting. I thought maybe it was because the connection wasn’t made at the pump but I guess I was wrong. That stopped making that relay in 2014.

Frank (ie427) mentioned there is a stand alone module that I could replace it with. I’d have to figure out a way to wire it.

That’s what I get for going non traditional with the wiring harness...

:)

KDubU

07-08-2019, 11:50 AM

David failed???? What up with that? Built two roadsters and a fuel pump beat you?

videodude

07-08-2019, 12:37 PM

Dave,

What is the manufacturer and part number of the relay?

Allan

SSNK4US

07-08-2019, 01:10 PM

Dave, someone posted some diagrams on your original relay swap post (which for the life of me I can’t find again and no idea how I found it in the first place) of the discontinued relay. The pin configuration, 86,87, 87a etc is the same as every 80’s to mid 90’s BMW used. Basic Bosch relay. BMW dealer, import car part place that maybe deals in old VW’s,amazon? (That’s where I got the pictures) The only difference might be the Panasonic blades might be narrower? Hard to tell but nothing a pair of dykes couldn’t handle lol Or a bigger ford tool ;) We build, we modify...and as the dark side always says...
we persevere lol Panasonic, Bosch, tomato, tomahto.... easy peasy
Most of the Bosch relays have a diagram on them that you can match to what that guy posted in the specs picture. It might even be on your bad relay? Match up the PIN numbers, diodes, resistors etc and your good to go. Oh and hopefully the pin spacing would be the same. If not still totally modifiable.
HTH
Kurt

110374

110375

SSNK4US

07-08-2019, 01:13 PM

Oh but on the plus side of it all Dave.....

You have a new access hole!!! :p

David Hodgkins

07-08-2019, 01:42 PM

Kurt, are you talking about this thread?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29088-ol-5369-has-been-down-since-HB-(-On-the-road-again!

Allen, the relay itself can be found here:

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/315/ds_61204_en_cm_pd2014-1075658.pdf

It is the #3. Micro-ISO PC board type (1 Form C)

:)

videodude

07-08-2019, 03:25 PM

Dave,

Is the relay plug-in or solder-in? I can't quite tell from the Mouser reference. If plug in, there are several vendors on eBay selling NEW Panasonic CM-1a relays. Go for one without the "R", which has a built in resistor. If solder, let me know, maybe I can find something else in the same form factor.

UPDATE: I looked at the data sheet a bit more carefully; see below:

Can you send me the EXACT P/N from the relay? From the data sheet, it appears that the only solder-in relays were 24v, not 12v. If so, the relays being sold by the following vendor would work perfectly: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CM1-12V-Panasonic-Industrial-Devices-Auto-Relay-35A-12VDC-1-FORM-C-SEALED/283180417526?epid=664422221&hash=item41eede41f6:g:AeYAAOSwFMZWqg3V

Also, the only discontinued ones are the ones with the diode, which is typically installed ACROSS the coil of the relay to dampen eddy currents (created during on/off, sort of like back EMF).

Allan

David Hodgkins

07-08-2019, 03:41 PM

Allen it's the solder in type AC13111.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89604&d=1532931126

:)

videodude

07-08-2019, 03:46 PM

Dave,

Those are the same relays you swapped before, and NOT the ones on the Mouser page you sent me. I'm confused now.

UPDATE: Assuming this is from the same board you repaired before, the part number for the fuel pump relay is CB1-D-P-12v; ebay link is as follows:

https://www.ebay.com/i/142407957227?chn=ps

Allan

i.e.427

07-08-2019, 08:33 PM

Frank (ie427) mentioned there is a stand alone module that I could replace it with. I’d have to figure out a way to wire it.

:)

https://www.ebay.com/i/173942057237?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=173942057237&targetid=596465992748&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=9031250&poi=&campaignid=1689407480&adgroupid=74365778068&rlsatarget=pla-596465992748&abcId=1140476&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAjw04vpBRB3EiwA0Iiear3EnWm9bvXgPlr5GWdT bZePtX4NAJrywYGluNNdboj7MvEPaS7b8RoCvKcQAvD_BwE

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=944041&cc=1134133&jsn=495

You'd also need a pigtail to wire it in. I've never heard of one of these stock Ford relays letting go but.................... I'd harvest one with the pigtail from a pick and pull. I have a wiring diagram for this David.

Frank

videodude

07-08-2019, 09:13 PM

Frank,

I actually agree in this case. The only reason for this relay is that the fuel pump draws more than the output transistor on the A9L can provide. It's only rated for around 500ma and the pump likely draws 1.5 amps. BUT the relay contacts are rated for 40 amps, and it doesn't cycle during normal service. It goes ON for 3 seconds to pressurize the system at startup, then goes OFF. As soon as the Crank Position Sensor provides input to the A9L, it closes again, and stays that way as long as the engine is running. If the engine stalls or stops (for whatever reason), the fuel pump relay goes OFF again as a safety measure. I'm concerned the problem is elsewhere.

Allan

David Hodgkins

07-09-2019, 11:50 AM

videodude

07-09-2019, 02:15 PM

Dave,

I would pull the relay board from your car and test that relay with a 12v power supply. If it closes, check for continuity between the contacts. It may be OK. No sense in changing a relay that doesn't need changing. My concern is that the signal to close the relay possibly isn't getting to the relay board.

Allan

Itchief

07-09-2019, 02:44 PM

David

Just another thought on replacing the defective board

You could use three separate relays with wiring pig tails, three inline fuse holders, linemanÂ’s splices, solder, heat Shrink tubing and wire loom to create your own custom replacement to locate the relays wherever you need to

Rick

AC Bill

07-09-2019, 03:31 PM

Reset the inertia switch?

videodude

07-09-2019, 06:35 PM

Dave,

Do you still have a "test" connector in your wiring harness? If so, do the following (per the diagram in post #3):

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/92-5-0-lx-cranks-but-wont-start.899643/

The jumper should force the fuel pump relay to close and the pump to run continuously. If not, follow the trouble-shooting advise. Inertia switch is a prime candidate.

Allan

CDXXVII

07-09-2019, 07:52 PM

Definitely a good one to verify. Eliminate the obvious

Reset the inertia switch?

SSNK4US

07-09-2019, 09:51 PM

Yes Dave that was exactly the thread I was taking about. Also the relay pictures I posted were just a picture I took from amazon for showing what’s on relays. Not the exact one. And also what I meant by modify with dykes (or a dremel) is I knew it was soldered in but looking at specs you can see they are wide terminals factory cut down to be soldered. Typical.
I also thought of what Itchief said. Not a bad idea. Solder or crimp type connectors to relay. That’s what I meant by modifying it. (Or Mickey Mouse lol) lots of ideas out here so it’s probably getting kind of confusing for you :( Even if you replaced the relay, Panasonic or my Bosch idea etc etc, my main concern is what is drawing so much current that you keep frying that relay? It’s worked for how long? Fried one relay and your board. Ya think maybe ok bad relay? But two now?
Somethings up. Also did that other relay actually fry? Or did something go wrong with that mess of a board? And no I’m not bagging on your soldering. Lol Did you check the relay you swapped over? Desolder and break out your multi meter.
Sorry Dave :( Everybody HATES electrical problems. Work backwards and eliminate stuff as you go. Don’t get frustrated.
Wish I lived closer to help. Shoot I wish I could walk right now too! :(

Kurt

110429

i.e.427

07-09-2019, 10:56 PM

Frank are you saying I need one of those or both? Are they considered g-3? g-4? g5?

If I went to a pick-a-part where is this part they located? Will normal electronics shops have new replacement pins?

:)
Both are the same part from different retailers. The CCRM (as it is called by Ford) is usually located on the passenger side inner fender inside the engine compartment. These can be found on most 1994 -2000 Mustangs. Unsure what g-3, g-4 & g-5 are? Not sure what pins you are referring too?

The CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module) controls fuel pump, 2 cooling fans (or high and low fan), ECM, and A/C clutch control. Fan relays are rated to 60amps, fuel pump at 20 amps.

David Hodgkins

07-11-2019, 03:23 PM

You guys really spooked me. I thought I had checked the inertia switch but went and double-checked and it is not tripped.

I have to admin my eyes glaze over when I read about running ground trip wires eec test wires, bla bla bla. (adhd I guess, just can't get through the post on testing)

Not sure what I want to do. Well, what I want to do is tear out the whole harness!

Going back to Frank's solution, buying a replacement module looks like it could work, I just don't know where to buy the pigtail, how to wire it in, run new pins etc.

So yeah. wiring is frustrating for me...

:(

videodude

07-11-2019, 07:30 PM

Dave,

I wish I were closer to you; this isn't rocket science. You either have +12volts to the relay board, or you don't. Your relay board either has a ground, or it doesn't. You've got to start with the basics. Depending on your wiring harness, there could also be a fusible link in the harness. Changing the relay will buy you nothing if there is no signal to turn it on. Can you beg, borrow, or steal a logic probe? Even a test light will do. Assuming that "some" of the led's on that board are ON when the key is in RUN, there has to be a simple reason why the signal to turn ON the fuel pump isn't there. It "could" be a bad relay, but that's highly unlikely as Frank said. Not impossible, but unlikely. Certainly not worth the hassle of replacing the relay, only to have it NOT be the problem. Using a logic probe, or even a cheap HF voltmeter, you could check to see if you have +12v IMMEDIATELY after turning the ignition switch to RUN (first 3 seconds only). If not, you need to trace the fuel pump wiring back to a place where you DO have +12v for 3 seconds in RUN. If you get all the way to the A9L, and there is no +12V, then the driver transistor on the computer is shot. It happens. The circuit is pretty simple.

Allan

i.e.427

07-11-2019, 08:16 PM

You guys really spooked me.
Not sure what I want to do. Well, what I want to do is tear out the whole harness!

Going back to Frank's solution, buying a replacement module looks like it could work, I just don't know where to buy the pigtail, how to wire it in, run new pins etc.

So yeah. wiring is frustrating for me...

:(

I feel a junk yard run! Nothing better than cruising through a junk yard looking for cool stuff. I have the wiring diagram as well, although I think I already mentioned that.

David Hodgkins

07-17-2019, 10:07 PM

Frank (and friends),

Is there a way to just bypass the fuel pump relay circuit on this board altogether, maybe run it independently with a switch and relay through the i-squared harness?

:)

i.e.427

07-17-2019, 11:35 PM

Frank (and friends),

Is there a way to just bypass the fuel pump relay circuit on this board altogether, maybe run it independently with a switch and relay through the i-squared harness?

:)

I don't see any reason you couldn't wire in a separate relay, bypassing the I-Squared relay.

videodude

07-18-2019, 09:32 AM

Dave,

The fuel pump relay is normally controlled by the A9L so the pump doesn't run when the engine isn't running. It's a safety issue. Obviously, if you were in a collision and had a fire, having the pump run would be a total disaster. There is no reason why you couldn't power the fuel pump directly from the battery, with nothing more than a fuse. Wire it to the RUN side of the ignition circuit. That way it will run all the time when the switch is in the RUN position. You might also want to include the intertia switch in that circuit, to have at least some level of protection in the case of a collision.

The relay is only there because the A9L can't supply enough power to run the pump. When the pump runs continuously, excess pressure gets returned to the fuel tank by the fuel pressure regulator. That's why the pump only runs for 3 seconds when the ignition switch is first placed in RUN. The pump only runs continuously when the engine is running (and the A9L "sees" pulses from the CPS (Crank Position Sensor).

To add to this, pin 22 of the A9L goes LOW (ground) to activate the fuel pump relay. That's what the jumper on the test connector does, it bypasses that computer supplied low. There is a 1.5ohm resistor in that circuit that sometimes goes bad. I can send you the pinout of the A9L connector, if you need it. The fuel pump relay has 12v on it all the time, always HOT in other words. Merely grounding the control line to that relay should turn that relay ON.

Allan

David Hodgkins

07-19-2019, 10:32 AM

OK so if I run a line that starts from the I-squared power unit, and splice it to the line exiting the blown circuit board, that would work without a relay? (I'd hook a switch up to the switch unit that feeds the power unit so I can flip it on before starting) I believe that would save the inertia switch functionality...

10 amp fuse should do it?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89604&d=1532931126

:)

David Hodgkins

07-19-2019, 10:55 AM

videodude

07-19-2019, 12:30 PM

Dave,

Do you still have a test connector in your harness? It's part of a standard Mustang harness. I'll try to find a picture and send it along.

Allan

mburger

07-19-2019, 02:13 PM

Here's a pic of the test connector I grabbed from a Google search. Mine is near the master cylinder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110895&d=1563563396

David Hodgkins

07-19-2019, 03:13 PM

Dave,

Do you still have a test connector in your harness? It's part of a standard Mustang harness. I'll try to find a picture and send it along.

Allan

Here's a pic of the test connector I grabbed from a Google search. Mine is near the master cylinder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110895&d=1563563396

I think I do have that plug. I'll post a pic tonight.

:)

videodude

07-19-2019, 04:54 PM

Dave,

If you've got that plug, there is a pair of contacts that can be jumped (or switched) to force the fuel pump to run continuously (for diagnostic purposes, of course . . .). The test jumper effectively grounds pin 22 of the ECM (the A9L) which should close the existing relay on the board. If it doesn't enable the relay, then you can take more drastic action, like running a new wire from +12v to a switch to the inertia switch (and then on to the fuel pump), thus totally bypassing the relay.

Allan

David Hodgkins

07-19-2019, 05:20 PM

Dave,

If you've got that plug, there is a pair of contacts that can be jumped (or switched) to force the fuel pump to run continuously (for diagnostic purposes, of course . . .)

Allan

It's tempting to throw a switch across that as a solution ;)

videodude

07-19-2019, 05:23 PM

Dave,

Try a jumper first; see if the fuel pump relay closes and if the fuel pump runs. That will tell you a lot about what is going on. I sent you a link in post #47 showing which pins to jump.

Allan

David Hodgkins

07-19-2019, 06:30 PM

Thanks Allen!

I assume this is it?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110909&d=1563578985

:)

videodude

07-19-2019, 06:53 PM

Yes sir!

If the jumper doesn't do anything (the relay doesn't "click" and the pump doesn't run), then either the relay is bad OR the wiring to/from the relay is bad. In this case, running a new wire from +12 to the dk.grn/yel. wire of the inertia switch "should" make the relay run all the time. I would put a switch in that circuit. I send you an eBay link earlier to a vendor that has the EXACT correct relay for sale, if you wanted to repair it back to "stock". It is , however, a solder-in relay. Just like the ECM power relay.

If the jumper forces the relay to close and the fuel pump runs, then the ground from the ECM OR the wiring from the ECM (pin 22 in particular) is at fault. I have read that there is a 1.5 ohm resistor that fails (what would be commonly be called a "pull-down" resistor), which would likely be caused by a higher than normal amperage load (but possibly NOT enough to blow the fuse). In order to find that resistor, you would need to remove the ECM, trace from Pin 22 back to the resistor, and change it. There is NO schematic available (that I know of) for the A9L, I've never been able to find one. I only know what I've read online. If that resistor is cooked, you probably won't be able to read the bands on it to see the value. BUT, since Pete (Big Blocker) has a spare A9P, that part of the circuit should be the same and we can look at that one for the value; it ought to work and probably isn't critical. It is also possible that the driver transistor could also have gone bad. This would take more advanced troubleshooting (but not impossible).

If you're not comfortable doing PC level repair on your ECM, I am more than happy to do it. Again. LOL!

Allan

AC Bill

07-21-2019, 12:07 PM

In order to find that resistor, you would need to remove the ECM, trace from Pin 22 back to the resistor, and change it. There is NO schematic available (that I know of) for the A9L, I've never been able to find one. Allan

Is this what your looking for?

mburger

07-21-2019, 12:30 PM

If it comes down to it, I have a spare working A9L you can test with etc.

videodude

07-21-2019, 12:48 PM

Is this what your looking for?

Bill,

No, that is the the ECM chassis wiring diagram, what I have been looking for is the actual schematic diagram of the A9L itself, down to the component level. I suspect that it's available somewhere, but not publicly. Something that gives the component values and transistor/Integrated Circuit types, and how they are connected. I have the diagram you posted, but thanks anyway.

Allan

Allan

David Hodgkins

07-23-2019, 10:00 PM

I've been busy with a new job and just go a chance to test the jump wire.

I installed a wire as shown in by the read dotted line in the image in post #65 and turned the ignition key to the run position.

Nothing happened.

videodude

07-24-2019, 12:27 AM

Dave,

That means that either the relay coil is bad, or the wiring to the relay is bad (including the fuse, which I am sure you checked). The jumper simulates the "low" normally supplied by pin 22 of the ECM. Run a fused wire from the RUN side (+12v) of your ignition circuit to the fuel pump (hook it up to the intertia switch so you have some protection). Your fuel pump will run continuously when the ignition is in RUN.

Or, we can trouble shoot the relay and it's associated wiring. Your choice.

Allan

SSNK4US

07-24-2019, 12:28 AM

:(

That sucks

David Hodgkins

07-26-2019, 11:09 AM

:(

That sucks

Yes. Yes it does. That's what I get for going with a non-traditional harness. Never again!

Dave,

That means that either the relay coil is bad, or the wiring to the relay is bad (including the fuse, which I am sure you checked). The jumper simulates the "low" normally supplied by pin 22 of the ECM. Run a fused wire from the RUN side (+12v) of your ignition circuit to the fuel pump (hook it up to the intertia switch so you have some protection). Your fuel pump will run continuously when the ignition is in RUN.

Or, we can trouble shoot the relay and it's associated wiring. Your choice.

Allan

Allen, since I have an I-Squared harness, I am planning to utilize an existing dash switch, replacing the seat heater with a switched circuit to the pump. I plan to run a wire from the power unit and connect to the existing wire exits the existing relay module. That line goes from the module, through the inertia switch, to the pump.

I'll be doing this on Saturday, after as planned trip to see some of the So_cal boys at Maniac Mikes.

Wish me luck!

:)

Avalanche325

07-26-2019, 01:35 PM

Oh but on the plus side of it all Dave.....

You have a new access hole!!! :p

Yeah! It'll be ready for the next time the doesn't need to change the pump.

That sucks that you went through all that for a relay. Get two. They are pretty much all junk these days. It is easy to dive in without checking the simple stuff sometimes.

David Hodgkins

08-04-2019, 04:17 PM

After studying the board here is my plan as of now

I have a spare fused 12V power source. I'm going to run a power line from the switched source to the wires on the other side of this board. Starting from the top I'l plug into the wires at position 2 and three in the red box. I will extract the wires from the plug and connect them directly to the power source. I believe on goes to the inertia switch and one goes to the pump. I will trace the wires for continuity before connecting 12v power.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111832&d=1564953059

Here is the top of the board for reference:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89412&d=1532484794

David Hodgkins

08-04-2019, 09:32 PM

Well I connected the wires and tested for continuity. Everything was in alignment so I connected the pump and turned the key to the on position. Tested for 12 volts at the pump. Check. Plugged in the pump and turned they key again...It worked! I could hear the pump running.

So I went to the gas station and picked up 1-1/2 gallons of gas. Turned the key and got fuel pressure!

Turned the key and cranked it over....

No start. the board is telling me the eec has power. What's wrong now?

What did I miss?

:(

videodude

08-08-2019, 05:05 PM

Dave,

Sorry, didn't see this until today (we got a new dog from the shelter, she has been taking up most of our time).

Fuel, Spark, Air. That's all it takes. So, Air is pretty much a given, assuming you now have fuel pressure in your fuel rail (and not just air), either the injectors are NOT getting a signal to squirt, or your plugs are NOT getting a signal to fire. So, let's start with the easy one: Do you a have spark tester? If so, use it, otherwise you should be able to see a nice fat spark in the gap of a plug while the engine is being cranked. Do this in a dark garage, the blue spark doesn't show up well in the sunlight. If you have spark, then we need to see if injectors are squirting, which isn't so easy. Try the spark first. Even with a bad Crank Position Sensor (which controls your timing), you should have spark. Try that first, please.

After that, please call me. 1-510-557-4615 It's going to be easier to do this by voice (and I can conference in Pete <Big Blocker>) than sending messages back and forth.

Allan

David Hodgkins

08-13-2019, 12:21 AM

https://youtu.be/TF_zKvmFhUA

No Spark.

I want to ask a question about the relay. I'm wondering if there is a switch not closing?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112265&d=1565673440

Frank,

I actually agree in this case. The only reason for this relay is that the fuel pump draws more than the output transistor on the A9L can provide. It's only rated for around 500ma and the pump likely draws 1.5 amps. BUT the relay contacts are rated for 40 amps, and it doesn't cycle during normal service. It goes ON for 3 seconds to pressurize the system at startup, then goes OFF. As soon as the Crank Position Sensor provides input to the A9L, it closes again, and stays that way as long as the engine is running. If the engine stalls or stops (for whatever reason), the fuel pump relay goes OFF again as a safety measure. I'm concerned the problem is elsewhere.

Allan

I don't know squat about relays. But I know you described a line that goes from the ecu to the relay that turns on the pump when switched power is supplied. It turns off after 3 seconds until engine crank?

If this is the switch from the ecu, can I just close it with switched power? If So, how do I handle the signal? To ground? To 12V? To something else because I don't know squat about relays?

:)

Jeff Kleiner

08-13-2019, 04:09 AM

David,
You don't have your plug wire near enough to a ground to see a spark if one is present. If you can get the metal terminal ~ 1/8" from a solid ground it should show but better yet is to put a plug on the end then hold the body to ground (or use a jumper with alligator clips). If there is spark being generated you should see it between the center electrode and plug's ground strap.

Good luck,
Jeff

David Hodgkins

08-15-2019, 03:54 PM

I was talking to Allen yesterday and one thing that I've noticed is that my check engine light isn't coming on when I turn the key to the run position.

Allen thinks that is an indication of a computer that has gone south...

videodude

08-15-2019, 04:53 PM

OR, your EEC isn't getting any power. Don't rule out the dumb stuff.

I am assuming that your I-Squared chassis wiring harness has TWO +12 lines going to the EEC (the A9L): one directly from the battery for the "keep alive", which should be fused with a low value fuse OR a fusible link, and one via the RUN position on your ignition switch which should engage a relay to power the EEC. These would be part of the I-Squared harness, NOT part of the MASS-FLO system. The MASS-FLO probably has it's own wiring from the RUN side of the ignition switch.

Don't blame your A9L until you can confirm it is getting power. I bet it isn't.

Allan

i.e.427

08-15-2019, 09:57 PM

OR, your EEC isn't getting any power.

Allan

I think I mentioned this to him on the phone................................. A week ago.
;)

videodude

08-15-2019, 11:16 PM

Be nice . . .

videodude

09-14-2019, 05:07 PM

Hey Dave,

Did you ever get this resolved? Inquiring minds . . . yadda, yadda, yadda.

Videodude

SSNK4US

09-14-2019, 09:14 PM

X2

Kurt

David Hodgkins

10-30-2019, 06:42 PM

Thought I'd check in...

I'm giving serious thought to ditching the Mass-flo and buying this Holley HP EFI retrofit kit:
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/hp_efi/hp_4bbl_multi_port_retrofit_kits/parts/550-500

While I'm at it - because I'd take the body off to complete the retrofit - I'm thinking of ditching the i-Squared and putting in a new Ron Francis MKIV chassis harness.

It's extreme, but I know the end result would be a much more reliable ride. I've been on a flatbed too many times (3) already. Time to ditch the experiments of the 'aughts and put in today's standard.

Should only cost me ~ $3500...

:(

frankeeski

10-30-2019, 06:52 PM

Should only cost me ~ $3500...

:(

Dude! Really? Holley just released a new Terminator X kit for 87-93 specific Fox body cars for $1149.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/terminator_x/terminator_x_and_x_max_ford_kits/terminator_x_ford_kits/parts/550-937F

And if you want to save another $250 and do a little wiring/splicing they have the none model specific kit for $999.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/terminator_x/terminator_x_and_x_max_ford_kits/terminator_x_ford_kits/parts/550-937

Since there is nothing wrong with your engines hardware, why replace the intake, fuel logs, injectors, distributor and throttle body? Throw in the $550 for the Ron Francis harness and your at less than half of what you've just estimated.

Just my $.02

PS, if you want to save another $500 you could get the Ron Francis 5.0 engine harness to go with the chassis harness. Did that on the Silver car I just finished.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-cobra75?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6eTtBRDdARIsANZWjYaKJrIQtqcH_oHG2_dB q-I2lKIaofiVnr5a93MNgFJxksGpW2MxJTwaAj_1EALw_wcB

weendoggy

10-31-2019, 09:54 AM

I guess you better decide if you want to keep the Ford electronic crap or move up. If you're thinking of a carb look, I'd do a Sniper (which will need a manifold just like you'd need with the kit you mentioned) and then I'd ditch the TFI and go with either Holley's Dual Sync Distributor or their Hyperspark system. That's if you want to keep it all the same. Just wired a Sniper/Dual Sync on a friends and it is very nice.

If you want to keep PFI, it'll cost a lot more.

David Hodgkins

10-31-2019, 04:36 PM

Dude! Really? Holley just released a new Terminator X kit for 87-93 specific Fox body cars for $1149.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/terminator_x/terminator_x_and_x_max_ford_kits/terminator_x_ford_kits/parts/550-937F

And if you want to save another $250 and do a little wiring/splicing they have the none model specific kit for $999.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/terminator_x/terminator_x_and_x_max_ford_kits/terminator_x_ford_kits/parts/550-937

Since there is nothing wrong with your engines hardware, why replace the intake, fuel logs, injectors, distributor and throttle body? Throw in the $550 for the Ron Francis harness and your at less than half of what you've just estimated.

Just my $.02

PS, if you want to save another $500 you could get the Ron Francis 5.0 engine harness to go with the chassis harness. Did that on the Silver car I just finished.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-cobra75?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6eTtBRDdARIsANZWjYaKJrIQtqcH_oHG2_dB q-I2lKIaofiVnr5a93MNgFJxksGpW2MxJTwaAj_1EALw_wcB

OK I'll bite; do you know if either of the above work with my existing throttle body, and do they support multi-port EFI? I have no problem switching solutions, if they are compatible and save me money, why not??

:)

I guess you better decide if you want to keep the Ford electronic crap or move up. If you're thinking of a carb look, I'd do a Sniper (which will need a manifold just like you'd need with the kit you mentioned) and then I'd ditch the TFI and go with either Holley's Dual Sync Distributor or their Hyperspark system. That's if you want to keep it all the same. Just wired a Sniper/Dual Sync on a friends and it is very nice.

If you want to keep PFI, it'll cost a lot more.

PFI? All I know is that the Sniper isn't multiport, so I'd end up with a bit of a Frankenstein solution unless I switch out the intake, correct?

:)

weendoggy

10-31-2019, 05:08 PM

PFI? All I know is that the Sniper isn't multiport, so I'd end up with a bit of a Frankenstein solution unless I switch out the intake, correct?

:)

Port Fuel Injection. Yes, you'd have to swap the intake. A Sniper package with ignition would be less than $2k including a new intake. Then you can junk all the Ford EFI stuff.

I think if you go the other route as Frank suggests, it may not work with your TB because that is setup for a stock Ford EFI system, so your Mass Air TB probably won't work.

There's always a work around to do things, its just a matter of how much work and money you want to throw at it. :)

David Hodgkins

10-31-2019, 05:23 PM

Port Fuel Injection. Yes, you'd have to swap the intake. A Sniper package with ignition would be less than $2k including a new intake. Then you can junk all the Ford EFI stuff.

I think if you go the other route as Frank suggests, it may not work with your TB because that is setup for a stock Ford EFI system, so your Mass Air TB probably won't work.

There's always a work around to do things, its just a matter of how much work and money you want to throw at it. :)

Thanks Mr. Doggy!

:)

frankeeski

10-31-2019, 07:33 PM

OK I'll bite; do you know if either of the above work with my existing throttle body, and do they support multi-port EFI? I have no problem switching solutions, if they are compatible and save me money, why not??

:)

Your existing Mass-Flo system uses what computer? Why wouldn't a throttle body made for a Ford computer not work?...... That's rhetorical. ;)
Either system will work. The Fox body kit has more of the Ford specific harnesses connector all ready to go as part of the harness. The universal kit has you adding weather-pac connectors to your existing sensors to plug into the Terminator X harness, just a bit more work. If it's less painful to just spend the money, then by all means.

Did you bother to even click on the link?
TERMINATOR X FOXBODY 5.0 MPFI KIT
Foxbody 5.0L Specific MPFI Main Harness - Ford Spaced EV1 Injector Harness, 3.5" Touchscreen Included

PART# 550-937F

It says MPFI twice in the description.

frankeeski

10-31-2019, 07:36 PM

I guess you better decide if you want to keep the Ford electronic crap or move up.

Then you can junk all the Ford EFI stuff.

Nice to know I built my car with a bunch of crap.............. Thanks

Big Blocker

10-31-2019, 09:57 PM

weendoggy

11-01-2019, 09:13 AM

(quoted: Nice to know I built my car with a bunch of crap.............. Thanks)

You're welcome. :)

Now, my point was if he was to put another system and "merge" it with the Ford system (no crap), you run a better chance of having issues. Running the Holley with the TFI is known to have issues (on the Ford side). So, if you change, change it all.

weendoggy

11-01-2019, 09:20 AM

Is it as obvious to anyone else besides me that weendoggy has had nothing but trouble with FORD's EFI system in the past??

There's about a bazillion cars out there with that system and still on the road, Frank's and mine are just a few examples of cars built with fORD "junk".

Just my 2¢

Doc

I'll add a couple more cents. I run a few Ford vehicles and did so with my initial build. However, it only goes so far. Trying to "piece" several different systems together is NOT the way to go, either go all in or leave it be. If the Ford TFI system is so good, how come there are thousands of posts on this and other forums about how bad it is. Plus, lets not forget the many responses to get rid of it, or better yet, try this, try that, replace this, replace that. All I'm saying is NOT to piece several different EFI electronic systems together. To answer your question on having trouble, that answer is no, maybe this is 1 in a bazillion that does. nuf said.

Big Blocker

11-01-2019, 12:39 PM

Agreed, don't mix-n-match parts, especially when it comes to the electronics - stick with tried-n-true combinations

Doc

frankeeski

11-04-2019, 08:19 PM

If the Ford TFI system is so good, how come there are thousands of posts on this and other forums about how bad it is. Plus, lets not forget the many responses to get rid of it, or better yet, try this, try that, replace this, replace that. All I'm saying is NOT to piece several different EFI electronic systems together.

What a flaming pile of garbage that is. The Holley system I linked has just been introduced and you already "know" it has issues? For the record (Doc wouldn't know this) I run a Stinger ECU with a dieted 94 harness, Summit billet distributor, Accufab throttle body with a Standard Motor Products TPS, Airtex Wells IAC and a CCRM I harvested from the donor. Are you telling me that none of that is designed to work together?

I've become somewhat of an authority regarding the rebuilding of poorly built Factory Five Cars. I generally see at least 2 of these fine examples a year. Some are private party sales but most are ebay sales. The car below was an auto broker sale.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7858/47321094882_4e402c78ec_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2f6AYSf)20181007_115057 (https://flic.kr/p/2f6AYSf) by i.e.427 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152631091@N02/), on Flickr
Rebuilding as many of these cars as I have, has shown me that you can use the cheapest parts or the most expensive parts there are and still end up with a car that won't run for squat. I've used just about every combination of parts to build or rebuild one of these cars and I just don't have the issues you describe. Why do you think that is? I'm pretty sure it's because I build them the right way, read the instructions for the products before hand and make sure I understand how they are all supposed to work. A large problem with some of the people that are building hot-rods today is that they choose, so called, plug and play parts for their cars and have no working knowledge of how any of it works. On top of that, they have no troubleshooting knowledge. Not sure if it was here or on another car forum that I read but someone ditched an entire FiTech system in their car and replaced it with a brand new Holley Sniper? Maybe the one you referred to? Anyhow, the same guy is now having issues with the Holley system dousing the spark-plugs in fuel. So much for getting it all from the same manufacturer.

To your point regarding the Ford TFI. Discussion on forums is hardly a statistic. There is more dis-information on most automotive forums then there are facts. In real life experience I can tell you that 1-20 TFI so called failures are actually the TFI. More often than not it's poor diagnosis or wiring like I posted examples of above.

In the end, David is going to do what ever he chooses. I'll lend him a hand regardless of which system or parts he decides on.

In the interest of moving forward, forget everything I said above..........................................

You're right.

weendoggy

11-05-2019, 10:01 AM

...

I've become somewhat of an authority regarding the rebuilding of poorly built Factory Five Cars. I generally see at least 2 of these fine examples a year. Some are private party sales but most are ebay sales...

Thank you, and because you are the "authority" (self induced I see), I can honestly admit I have been wrong in the past, present and future. So, with that in mind, I'm done. :cool:

David Hodgkins

11-05-2019, 03:43 PM

This thread has really jumped off track. Not really a proud brotherhood moment.

7tvette

11-05-2019, 04:45 PM

David Hodgkins

11-05-2019, 04:53 PM

Hi Troy,

The chassis change out is definitely going to happen. I suppose I could wait to change out the EFI but since the car will be apart it seems logical to replace it too.

re: HB - It is set for April 25, 2020. On Main Street and the Pier. It will be a MAJOR party!!

:)

PS Too bad you missed the 2019 show. I heard there was a killer band!

canuck1

11-05-2019, 05:45 PM

This thread has really jumped off track. Not really a proud brotherhood moment.

Sorry this turned into a bit of a stinker of a thread. I was actually following along with the diagnoses and suggested fixes. Started out interesting enough.

Just to add to the anecdotal 'data', my I-Squared harness has been in place since 2007 and still running strong. I bought the 'relay based' system though (not the mosfet transistor style), so I can still replace components fairly easily if I need to. Hasn't needed a thing. I'm also running a mongrel Ford/aftermarket EFI mixture that has worked pretty well, considering the lack of support that comes with DIY. It made me have to figure stuff out on my own, and I'm a slow learner (or stubborn, depending on who you ask) :rolleyes: I still have a Ford-based Mass-Flo-EFI style EFI system that's working fine too! Feel free to tease me about running ancient technology, everyone else does. What can I say? I turn the key, it works. To be fair, I do have my eye on the Holley Sniper kit if the current EFI setup ever packs it in.

I wouldn't jump to a full scale harness and EFI system replacement to deal with the bugs you've had, but I know that piece of mind is worth a lot when it comes to reliability. Do what suits you.

Sean

ptstew

11-05-2019, 06:47 PM

I’ve just read through this entire thread first time so I am definitely a few days late and dollars short. Two years ago, I started my car and as I went to pull out of the garage it stalled and wouldn’t restart. There was no 3 second fuel pump. I spent hours going through all the diagnostics described in the thread for checking the fuel pump circuit and eventually found no signal from my original 1991 donor EEC to the fuel pump relay when ignition on. I opened the computer and found all three capacitors inside wet with leaking electrolyte fluid. I sent it away for rebuilding and put it back in and car fired right up first try. I bought another one and also had it checked out and capacitors replaced and it works fine in my car. It is a working spare which I’d be happy to send to you to try if you haven’t already eliminated the EEC as the problem and/or moved on to another system.

videodude

11-05-2019, 09:06 PM

Ptstew,

I already did the capacitors on Dave's A9L EEC some time ago; it is working properly. The problem is in the I-Squared chassis harness and Dave isn't the first one to have this problem, apparently. A number of us have suggested some work-arounds, but Dave isn't comfortable with electrons (which I totally understand) and even if some of us who ARE comfortable with wiring were to diagnose, troubleshoot, and fix the actual problem, I get the impression that Dave would be MUCH happier with a brand-new chassis wiring harness. Couple that with the fact that his Mass-Flo system is no longer being supported, I think he wants to start over from square one. Nothing wrong with that, and nothing wrong with Dave's original build choices. There's just better choices available today and he wants to upgrade. Totally understandable.

Video

Big Blocker

11-05-2019, 09:25 PM

QUOTE: "PS Too bad you missed the 2019 show. I heard there was a killer band!" What 2019 show??? Too funny . . .

That being said, I'm already gearing up for the 2020 All-Out-Bash, Whoo-Hoo!! 1 7 2 days but who's counting.

Doc

ptstew

11-05-2019, 10:35 PM

frankeeski

11-06-2019, 07:21 PM

and because you are the "authority" (self induced I see)

Ya nailed it. I don't know how you do it? It's almost like you have a window into my soul.

David Hodgkins

09-17-2020, 08:21 PM

Hello David! I missed not coming down to visit last Spring. I also had the I-Squared unit and had problems with the fuel pump wiring after about 8 years. It wasn't the fuel pump and I couldn't ever diagnose what the issue was, so I replaced the I-Squared unit with the Ron Francis and FAST 1.0 (external pump). No Issues.

Any update on HB 2020?

Troy

Hi Troy,

The chassis change out is definitely going to happen. I suppose I could wait to change out the EFI but since the car will be apart it seems logical to replace it too.

re: HB - It is set for April 25, 2020. On Main Street and the Pier. It will be a MAJOR party!!

:)

PS Too bad you missed the 2019 show. I heard there was a killer band!

Well, well, well.

I see it's been a while since my last post. November. Anything happen in the world since then??

So not using that as an excuse in and of itself at all - Thank God - the truth is that I've been waiting to pull the plug on a new EFI due to the financial impact all 3 kids moving home. But finally, as luck would have it, a guy named Mike posted a power module for sale. I jumped on it and this just arrived:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135187&d=1600386818

This is LIKE NEW. The board and electronics are immaculate. He also packed a whole set of extra pins so I can just re-set the two power cables I had cut and then just plug in this brand-new looking power unit!

Interesting side note: he took this out because he wired in replacement fused relays into his harness and was able to ditch this unit. I'm determined to learn how to do the same!

:)