FLFrank's '35 Hot Rod Truck Build

[FLFrank35]

Delivery expected in the 2nd half of July :D

BluePrint Ford 306, EFI, automatic trans
Powdercoat frame, satin black
7S 28 spline 38.50" driveshaft
Black leather faced bench seat upgrade
3-Link rear suspension
Platinum 6 gauge set
Sound insulation kit + Dynamat
Chrome tilt steering column
EFI in-tank fuel system
Electric steering
Air conditioning
Wood bed kit
Aluminum interior door handles
8.8 rear axle housing w/TOP 3-Link
HR 11.65" rear brakes
Second brake reservoir
Diamond-plate firewall
Open engine compartment
Anti-lock brake system?
Wheels: Amer. Racing Authentic Hot Rod Sport Muscle Nitro 5?
Paint: Probably metallic red (like the SMG truck)

[wallace18]

IMO you should delete the seat track. You cannot move the seat forward or back. It only fits in one location.

[FLFrank35]

Wallace18, thanks for the heads up! I didn't consider that; I guess I'll take that off the order. I was thinking of different sized drivers, possible future owners. I sat in the hot rod at the build school but couldn't get a feel for pedal operation and seat placement. I guess I'll figure it out when the time comes.

Side note...I see you're in Alachua. I have a Hunter 356, which is/was built in Alachua...Do you happen to work at Marlow-Hunter?

[wallace18]

Wallace18, thanks for the heads up! I didn't consider that; I guess I'll take that off the order. I was thinking of different sized drivers, possible future owners. I sat in the hot rod at the build school but couldn't get a feel for pedal operation and seat placement. I guess I'll figure it out when the time comes.

Side note...I see you're in Alachua. I have a Hunter 356, which is/was built in Alachua...Do you happen to work at Marlow-Hunter?

No I am retired from GRU. Here is my truck build thread. Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26958-Wallace18-s-35-Hot-Rod-Pickup

[rponfick]

Agree on delete seat track. With seat all the way back, it would still be tight for a child.
Ralph

[FLFrank35]

Finally got my truck last Thurs (Aug 1). Did inventory in 3 days; found a few missing parts, but what took the most time was trying to figure out what some parts were...although I learned a lot about the parts. Also, got the engine and trans.

Took some of the bare-metal parts to the powder coater today...said they should be ready in a day or two.

Any suggestions on were to get headers for the BluePrint Ford EFI 306 (w e-power assist steering) to mate with the FFR exhaust pipes??

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Sorry, would have posted more photos but some are turned 90 degrees and I can't figure out how to re-orientate them.

[wallace18]

Summit is a good place for headers.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bbk-15150/overview/year/1989/make/ford/model/mustang

[Salty Chief 35]

I assume the FL in FLFrank is because you’re in Florida. I’m located just north of Tampa. If you’re close, I can offer help turning wrenches. I’m planning on getting my own kit, but probably a couple years out.

[bnelson]

Finally got my truck last Thurs (Aug 1). Did inventory in 3 days; found a few missing parts, but what took the most time was trying to figure out what some parts were...although I learned a lot about the parts. Also, got the engine and trans.

Took some of the bare-metal parts to the powder coater today...said they should be ready in a day or two.

Any suggestions on were to get headers for the BluePrint Ford EFI 306 (w e-power assist steering) to mate with the FFR exhaust pipes??

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Sorry, would have posted more photos but some are turned 90 degrees and I can't figure out how to re-orientate them.

I had some pictures with same issue. You can open them in paint program, rotate and save. Good luck with your truck!

[FLFrank35]

I assume the FL in FLFrank is because you’re in Florida. I’m located just north of Tampa. If you’re close, I can offer help turning wrenches. I’m planning on getting my own kit, but probably a couple years out.

Thanks for the offer. I’m over on the east coast near Melbourne. If you’re ever in the area, stop by and check it out.
It took me a couple years from considering building my own truck to ordering the kit.

Cheers,
Frank

[DamnYankee]

Hi Frank,
I'm in Port St Lucie with my truck. Mechanical done, just started bodywork phase.

[FLFrank35]

Hi Frank,
I'm in Port St Lucie with my truck. Mechanical done, just started bodywork phase.

You’re a little over an hour away...I’ll have to stop by when I get a chance (if that’s ok).

[DamnYankee]

Yup anytime !

[FLFrank35]

Got the control arms powder coated and assembled...



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[VIRGIN MIKE]

Hey Frank, I'm also in FL - Fort Lauderdale; My kit is due to be shipped next week; similar to yours; other than Blueprint 346 (Carb). manual, fenders etc, Wilewoods, Moser rear end, 18' wires by Wheelsmith.
Be interesting to compare note as we progress.

Also wondering about headers

Good luck.

[FLFrank35]

Sounds good! These headers from Summit were recommended to me...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bbk-15150/

[BluePrintEngines]

Following!!! Looking forward to seeing the build!!

[FLFrank35]

Got the shocks assembled. One question for anyone out there...The manual says the front shocks are supposed to be 2.5" shorter than the rear, but mine are all the same length. Did I get the wrong shocks or am I supposed to adjust them to the proper lengths? Thanks in advance!
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[sperger72]

Got the shocks assembled. One question for anyone out there...The manual says the front shocks are supposed to be 2.5" shorter than the rear, but mine are all the same length. Did I get the wrong shocks or am I supposed to adjust them to the proper lengths? Thanks in advance!
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I had the exact same question, I never received an answer.

Zach

[FLFrank35]

Dan Golub from FFR says the truck uses all 4 same size shocks.

Next question...
In attaching the 3-link suspension, the manual says attach the lower control arms to the center (out of 3) hole on the frame. I have 4 holes...Which one? Either of the center holes? Depending which ride height I want?

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[wallace18]

Dan Golub from FFR says the truck uses all 4 same size shocks.

Next question...
In attaching the 3-link suspension, the manual says attach the lower control arms to the center (out of 3) hole on the frame. I have 4 holes...Which one? Either of the center holes? Depending which ride height I want?

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Yes, just make sure your pinion angle is correct once you are finished before you drive it.

[FLFrank35]

Ok, thanks for the advice! I did eventually notice that the two bottom holes are too small for the bolts, so that narrows it down the the two top holes. I chose the lower one to raise the ride height.

I had a hell of a time getting the control arm eye-bolts and spacers installed in the frame brackets...it's a VERY tight fit. Still have to install the shocks...Any suggestions on how to make this easier?

Thanks!

[rponfick]

I made a spreader spacer tool out of some threaded rod and nuts and bolts to force the ears out if they were too tight. Had to use them in multiple places on the build: front suspension and rear.
You have the newer frame, I have the early frame, so I had to follow your first picture.
Ralph

[wallace18]

Ok, thanks for the advice! I did eventually notice that the two bottom holes are too small for the bolts, so that narrows it down the the two top holes. I chose the lower one to raise the ride height.

I had a hell of a time getting the control arm eye-bolts and spacers installed in the frame brackets...it's a VERY tight fit. Still have to install the shocks...Any suggestions on how to make this easier?

Thanks!

You can also use a large crescent wrench to spread the ears slightly.

[FLFrank35]

Thanks for the advice guys!!

[FLFrank35]

In August I got the rear installed; still waiting for the calipers.
The rear cover is leaking. I torqued the bolts like the manual says but I may have to call Moser and get a new gasket:confused:

In September and into October I painted and built the front calipers, and got most of the front-end installed, including the rack.

I am currently work on applying a diamond-plate layer to the firewall and installing that.

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[wallace18]

The last Moser I installed leaked there also. They have a production problem IMO. I had to replace the rear gasket.

[FLFrank35]

The last Moser I installed leaked there also. They have a production problem IMO. I had to replace the rear gasket.

I was afraid of that. I guess I’ll call Moser.
Thanks!

[House Money]

The last Moser I installed leaked there also. They have a production problem IMO. I had to replace the rear gasket.

I have yet to fill my Moser rear end, what about adding some gasket sealant to the gasket?

Gary

[FLFrank35]

Talked to Shane at Moser...he said it's possible the cover bolts are too short, or the chrome is not allowing a good seal. May have to grind chrome off of the flange so the gasket can seal properly. He's sending a new gasket...I'll post when I figure it out.

[DamnYankee]

I had a leak there too. I scraped away the old gasket and used just sealer. Ok now.

[sperger72]

Mine leaks too.

[rponfick]

Mine leaked also. Removed and re-sealed.
Ralph

[FLFrank35]

For those interested, I finally solved the axle leak issue...

First, I replaced the original gasket/sealer with the replacement sent from Moser, and as I was scraping off the gasket and sealer I noticed some over-spray of the black paint. This is the original black paint applied at the factory. It appeared that the paint over-spray (or powder coat) was built up enough that it prevented the cover's flange from properly mating with the axle housing causing the initial leak.

You can see some on the paint that caused the problem along the edge between the 5 and 6 o'clock positions...
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So I sanded the paint off of the axle housing down to bare metal and I installed the replacement gasket After I tighten the bolts to the minimum torque (25 fl/lbs as stated in the FFR manual) I noticed that the gasket and some sealer squeezed out from the cover, torn near the bolts. My mechanic said that usually happens if the the bolts get over-torqued and the cover's flange gets distorted, which makes sense since the 2 pieces could not form a tight fit and as the bolts were tightened they deformed the cover's flange enough to tear the gasket and push it out along with the sealer.

My mechanic hammered the cover's flange at the bolt-holes so the entire flange was flat. I applied a new gasket and sealer and torqued the bolts to the minimum 25 fl/lbs. Between the smooth and level surfaces it seems that I finally have a tight seal and stopped the leak.

Hope this helps others.

[David Hodgkins]

Testing Frank's image...:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118555&d=1575591261

:)

[FLFrank35]

Got the firewall, wheels/tires, brakes and steering done. Engine/trans going in this coming weekend :D

[wallace18]

Looking Good!:cool:

[FLFrank35]

Installed the engine yesterday. It started out straight-forward then we had a little problem with the transmission mount bracket...there is no guidance as to which way to install it. Curve forward, backside, wing-tabs up, down, forward slot, rear slot:confused:. The transmission wouldn't really fit either; the rear part of the trans oil pan was hitting the frame/brackets and we couldn't move the engine any farther forward. So we tried flipping the bracket over so it supported the trans spline higher (above the frame bracket) and it worked. I guess it's universal, so you install it whichever way works for your application.

[shmelty]

What wheels are those? I like the look!

[FLFrank35]

Thanks, I love them! Rocket Racing Booster Chrome Wheels from Summit. My wife picked them out and they look great. Solid, shiny wheels. And not a bad price...$320 for the 18" (front) and $380 for the 20" (rear).

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPM-R14-886547
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPM-R14-2106555

[FLFrank35]

Installed the floor, driveshaft, exhaust system...

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125214 125215 125227 125217 Side note: The manual says to bolt the exhaust pipe mounts through the frame, but the problem I found is that the bolt would be protruding through the cab floor. So I used 3/4" long, stainless steel, sheet metal, flanged screws to attach the mounts to the bottom of the frame tubes. Also, most of the pipes are 2-1/4" and the supplied brackets fit fine, but the turn-down tips are 2-1/2" so I got some good hanging brackets from Summit...and I undercoated the bottom with Dupli-Color Bed Armor.

[FLFrank35]

125220 125218 125219 125221Here is where I discovered that if you drill the mount/tab holes as directed, the radiator outflow sits lower than the frame bracket. So I raised the radiator frame mounting brackets a little...hope it holds :confused:
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[RuffShod]

Frank....can you drill and roll pin those brackets....so it wont slide down?

[FLFrank35]

Frank....can you drill and roll pin those brackets....so it wont slide down?

Thanks for the suggestion but I’m not sure what you mean :confused:

I’ve tightened the bolts, but haven’t torqued yet, and it seems to hold. The bottom radiator hose is resting on the frame bracket...hopefully it won’t slide down but I know that’s not ideal.

There is another hole on the frame, above the control arm bolt. I may be able to use that, but it looks pretty tight.

[RuffShod]

I was just thinkin out loud....

Slotted holes wont move anymore if you drill a hole near the slot and put a roll pin or bolt in it. Kind of like a bumper bracket. Adjust it to where it needs to be....and then immobilize it.

[RuffShod]

My truck is still in boxes....

[FLFrank35]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll study it and see how that might work.

Good luck unpacking.

[FLFrank35]

My time got temporarily diverted to another project but I'm back in the shop. I got buried in the wiring so I haven't been keeping up on the progress, but here are more pictures.

132243132241 A layer of DynaMat Xtreme, then DynaLiner 132242 132244
The a/c unit132245 I attached the valve bracket under the unit in the cab 132246
I didn't want the filler in the bed because I just know I'll end up stilling it in the bed. 132247 132248
The transmission fluid cooler 132249 132250

[FLFrank35]

The in-tank fuel pump with -6AN fittings, supply and return 132251 132252 132261
Started the wiring 132254 132255 132256 132258
The Lokar Electronic Sport Shifter 132259 And trying something with the leftover diamond plate from the firewall 132260

[FLFrank35]

I got the loop suggested by some, from Summit. Solid piece of metal. It's a tight fit but I rotated the shaft and it clears with some room for movement.
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Wrapped the mufflers...
133858 Test fit the tunnel...133859 Got the Lokar Elecronic Sport Shifter. It's a nice piece of equipment and there are many ways to mount it. But the problem I had was this...it's designed to be floor-mounted. The problem with that is that the cable goes aft, and if I mounted it on top of the tunnel, the cable would be above the seat. Well that wouldn't work so I tried to make a trans mounted bracket but I couldn't figure that out. So I mounted it on the tunnel, just low enough for the cable to pass between the tunnel and the safety loop and through the floor. It's a pain-in-the-a** and I hope I don't have to remove the tunnel or the shifter, EVER, but it seems to work...so far.
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Installed the battery. Like everything else in this truck, it's a tight fit. I tried and I have no idea how I would get the battery out from under the bed once the build is complete. I imaged disconnecting the terminals from underneath and rotating the battery in every direction. Rather than become a contortionist I plan to put an access panel in the bed similar to rponfick.
133862 Added some aluminum to the cab...133863

Installed the gas pedal. Got a Lokar stainless steel braided cable and bracket. The cable was easy to cut to length.
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Hope to start it next week.

[wallace18]

Looking Good!:cool:

[McGuyver]

Great pictures. I added driveshaft safety loop to my list too. I am not an expert but should they be mounted a little further back to catch the driveshaft if the u-joint yoke fails?

[FLFrank35]

Great pictures. I added driveshaft safety loop to my list too. I am not an expert but should they be mounted a little further back to catch the driveshaft if the u-joint yoke fails?

Thanks! I studied the placement for 2 days, and I did look at putting it farther back, but I ended up putting it where I did with the idea that it will shield against any flying pieces of the u-joint, if it comes apart. I have the u-joint perfectly centered under the loop. Also, the top end of the shaft yoke (I guess that's what it's called) is under the loop. In addition, it seems that if the shaft somehow backed out from the loop, the frame's built-in loop and the opening in the frame should also restrict it.

It's a solid piece of metal and only $28 at Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g7900), so I guess 2 could be installed for ultimate protection :) and it fits almost perfectly under the tunnel. I did have to cut a small hole in the side of the tunnel to accommodate the loop's bolts but doesn't seem to be a problem.

And I don't know for sure how effective it is, but I applied some Kevlar and carbon fiber to the underside of the tunnel.

Good luck,
Frank

[chuck35truck]

Great idea about bring the fuel filler out the side of the bed. I may change that as I don’t have my bed wood in yet.

[FLFrank35]

Great idea about bring the fuel filler out the side of the bed. I may change that as I don’t have my bed wood in yet.

Thanks! I know it would only be a matter of time before I spilled gas in the bed, in addition to the chance of rain/water or other debris getting into the filler neck.
I got the 90 degree hose and the coupler from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/TNK-NE-90, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/TNK-FC-200

I think I like it there. It was a little tricky pouring gas from a can (with a short nozzle). A funnel or can with a long and flexible nozzle would be helpful. It might be easier from a gas pump (I haven't tried that yet).

Good luck,
Frank

[FLFrank35]

https://youtu.be/8kn_aPfPpiw

[wallace18]

Congrats!:cool:

[FLFrank35]

Thanks! :D

[FLFrank35]

https://youtu.be/qVFlbwyH2-M

[FLFrank35]

https://youtu.be/fWM9CT9o_mg

[FLFrank35]

https://youtu.be/VpvxCscRrN8

[Robodent]

Nice job!! Now comes the fun dusty job with the body.
Good luck. Rob

[bnelson]

Sweet :) Sounds awesome. Now as Rob says...let the fun begin!

Bruce

[FLFrank35]

Thanks! I am detecting a tone which tells me it's NOT going to be fun. ;) But, hey, in for a penny...

[bnelson]

Thanks! I am detecting a tone which tells me it's NOT going to be fun. ;) But, hey, in for a penny...

LOL. There are portions that were a bit challenging. Having chopped mine I created a bunch more work. The door alignment and radiator cowl alignment to hood were the hardest for me. And judging from other posts most had the same experience. I ended up cutting and doing major mods to get the cowl in alignment. After a lot of trial and error I have the doors figured out. If you have trouble with them drop me a message and I can go over what I found to be a pretty easy method to get them flush at all corners and lined up with the body moldings. They may have it in the manual by know but I know the first ones we all had a bit of a struggle.

Bruce

[Pat Landymore]

Congratulations on go karting your truck!

It sounds great 👍🏼👍🏼

[FLFrank35]

LOL. There are portions that were a bit challenging. Having chopped mine I created a bunch more work. The door alignment and radiator cowl alignment to hood were the hardest for me. And judging from other posts most had the same experience. I ended up cutting and doing major mods to get the cowl in alignment. After a lot of trial and error I have the doors figured out. If you have trouble with them drop me a message and I can go over what I found to be a pretty easy method to get them flush at all corners and lined up with the body moldings. They may have it in the manual by know but I know the first ones we all had a bit of a struggle.

Bruce

I appreciate the offer, I may need the help. Thanks!

[FLFrank35]

Looking less like the Flintstone mobile...and more like the Munster Koach.

[FLFrank35]

I’ve been busy building and haven’t updated this thread for a while, but I’ve been making some progress.
After my last post I got working on the doors. I agree with the consensus…the doors are probably the trickiest part of the build. More specifically (at least for me) the hinges. Once I figured out the right combination of adjustments, I got it. Now they are opening/closing pretty well.
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Then I moved on to the cowl…pretty straight forward.
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Next, got into the meat of the dash. Coved the gauge panel with diamond-plate, cut the holes for the ignition switch, lights, wipers, vents, and gear indicator.
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I fabricated a lower-dash for the a/c panel and radio. I plan to cover it with a leather-like vinyl wrap so it kind of matches the seats.
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[FLFrank35]

Then I installed the wiper system. Got the WWK-21 wiper kit from Specialty Power Windows like DamnYankee (thanks for your post!). This kit has an intermittent setting. Nice system.
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The bed floor…Before starting on the bed, I attempted to remove the battery from underneath to see how difficult it would be. I would have to say “impossible.” So, as others have suggested/done, I cut an access panel in the bed floor. Then I thought, why not cut holes for all of the other parts that may need work/replacement in the future. So, I also made access panels for the fuel filter, charcoal canister, fuel pump, fuel quantity sending unit and the transmission oil cooler. I admit it looks a little like the old board game, Operation, but according to Murphy’s Law I should never have to work on any of these now that I have done all of this work.:rolleyes:
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[FLFrank35]

And to make it easier for jumping and charging, I added a charging port in the rollpan.
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The tailgate is installed and working. Next is to secure the metal strips in the bed.
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Body/paint: I had a reputable body guy out to give me an idea of cost to prep the fiberglass and paint…$14-17k. I was expecting closer to 10. That is with a premium red metallic paint, and he does great work. He said he would make all of the lines/seams look good; straighten, level everything; explained the layers of filler, primer, paint, clear coat, etc. He also mentioned that red is the most expensive color (who knew?) but other colors would be more affordable.
Does that price sound somewhat reasonable for a great paint job? Comments on the paint?
Thanks

[wallace18]

And to make it easier for jumping and charging, I added a charging port in the rollpan.
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The tailgate is installed and working. Next is to secure the metal strips in the bed.
144957 144958 144959 144960 144961


Body/paint: I had a reputable body guy out to give me an idea of cost to prep the fiberglass and paint…$14-17k. I was expecting closer to 10. That is with a premium red metallic paint, and he does great work. He said he would make all of the lines/seams look good; straighten, level everything; explained the layers of filler, primer, paint, clear coat, etc. He also mentioned that red is the most expensive color (who knew?) but other colors would be more affordable.
Does that price sound somewhat reasonable for a great paint job? Comments on the paint?
Thanks

That is a fairly good quote. I have paid 20-25K for body/paint.

[Robodent]

Yes red is the most expensive color to spray. There’s a certain type of bug juice that’s used to create the color and that’s what drives the price up. I painted mine in a red burgundy and material alone was close to 3K . There’s different kinds of paint systems varying in price however they vary in quality too. There’s cheap production clear and then there’s quality clear
Cheap clear has a yellow tinge to it and quality clear when mixed is clear and flows out like glass which is nice and shinny .
I’m a very experienced body guy and did my body work myself and probably had 150 hrs of body work into my build . I got everything ready and had a buddy prime it then I helped block things out and he shot it for me because I’m not that good of a painter. If there’s one thing I could suggest is the stainless panels that are attached to the upper quarters need to be removed and re glued back in place mine are coming loose as several other guys have had this issue from ffr.
I like to know my material cost on every project I get into then I can go from there. Cash is king and maybe you can work with your guy in that respect.

[FLFrank35]

That is a fairly good quote. I have paid 20-25K for body/paint.

Ok, good to know. Just a little sticker shock...since I'm going without a hood/panels I thought it might be closer to $10k. But I DO want a good job, and that was his "realistic range" but (hopefully) could come in at the lower end. I believe he does good work and it includes all of the fiberglass work. After all, you get what you pay for, right?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/icons/icon14.png Thanks!

[FLFrank35]

Yes red is the most expensive color to spray. There’s a certain type of bug juice that’s used to create the color and that’s what drives the price up....

I appreciate the explanation...good info! They must be rare bugs from the Amazon jungle and it must take a lot of them :D

Regarding the stainless panels, I already had one separate while working with it. Used JB Weld cool steel epoxy to reattach it.
Thanks!

[FLFrank35]

It’s been a while since my last update but I have been working pretty consistently on my truck. I had the door setback (link to post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?39349-Next-question-Door-window-gap)) which took some time to get the new doors and some more time to install them. I spent a few weeks trying to install a keyless lock system, which I ultimately removed.

In November I had a professional mechanic tweak the timing, adjust the suspension and do an alignment. He also checked over my other work…all good.
Before paint I tied up some loose ends like shortened/eliminated unnecessary wires, fabricated brackets for the forward bed corners, finished the dash, etc. Last week the truck went to the paint shop, so while it’s being painted, I’ve been working on the bed wood.

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[FLFrank35]

Finally got the truck back from the paint shop. It took longer than estimated but I'm not surprised...they had to do a little more body work than expected. There were some air gaps in the fiberglass, the roof was sagging a little and they had to fix my mistakes. Will be getting to work on the interior and finishing this up.
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[Salty Chief 35]

Awesome job!
Respectfully
Jeremie

[wallace18]

Very Nice!:cool:

[edwardb]

I like it. Nice work and congratulations. Good luck finishing it up.

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Looking good

[FLFrank35]

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The doors still droop a little and the bottom rear corners aren't flush. A little water got in when I gave it it's first bath. I guess I'll have to upgrade the door seals.
Otherwise, I think it's ready for the road...just waiting for my title/tags.

Thanks to everyone who provided input and answers!! I really appreciate it https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/icons/icon10.png

[Chopper]

Lookin' good! I really like your quilted trans cover/headliner.
And it's done, but you'd be bored if there wasn't something to work on! :)

[tony]

It looks excellent. I really like the interior. Should be winning best in local shows before summers end!

[Robodent]

Congrats on your build. It looks great. Thanks for the pics you gave me some ideas on how to upgrade my interior this winter. Rob.

[RuffShod]

Well done!!!

Excellent craftsmanship!!!

[FFinisher]

Looks fantastic, those doors are tough....

[Salty Chief 35]

Outstanding!
Jeremie

[edwardb]

I like it a lot. Looking forward to mine getting that far along. I like your interior roof treatment. I may copy something like that for mine.

[RuffShod]

I like it a lot. Looking forward to mine getting that far along. I like your interior roof treatment. I may copy something like that for mine.

Interior looks allsome!!! I'd like to see a video or detailed explanation of what you used to do it, how it was attached, etc. I've never been exposed to that type of craftsmanship.

[FLFrank35]

Interior looks allsome!!! I'd like to see a video or detailed explanation of what you used to do it, how it was attached, etc. I've never been exposed to that type of craftsmanship.

LOL..."craftsmanship" ;). I'm probably more of a hack, but thanks for the comment. I've only done a sailboat headliner prior to this and this was different...there were channels on the ceiling of the boat to tuck the headliner into and no rollbar. With the truck, I kind of improvised. I am not a carpet/headliner installer and I am not good with cutting material around curves/corners. I had to figure it out as I went along.

To start off, my body guy noticed that the roof was sagging (I didn't see it) so he added some wood bracing.
I think he epoxied it or used resin. That gave me something to screw into, which worked out well because I had planned to add some fir strips anyway.

Next, I put some Dynaliner on the ceiling and sidewalls.
I cut out around the wood strips. Ideally, I think you'd want the wood fir strips and the insulation the same thickness so it's relatively level. My wood strips are about 1/2" thick and the Dynaliner I used is 1/2" thick.

Then, I took some measurements, cut the cardboard and screwed it to the wood strips.
I cut 2 pieces so it would be easier to slide into place above the rollbar. Had to go in and out several times to cut it just right. I used a sharp utility knife and #8-9/16" truss screws to screw into the wood. Very important...do not screw through the roof...obviously. Note: You have to leave a small gap at the edges/corners so you can tuck the material into it to hide the edges...in other words, cut the cardboard smaller than the surface area of the ceiling, don't go all the way to the sides/corners with the cardboard. Ideally you should have a gap (1/4" - 1/2") between the cardboard and the ceiling and enough room so you can tuck the material around the edges.

Next, I applied some heavy-duty Velcro about every few inches and here is where I erred...
The adhesive-side of the Velcro sticks fine to the Dynaliner, fiberglass, and cardboard, but it does not adhere the the vinyl headliner foam-backing. I removed the Velcro from the ceiling and used Shurtape double-sided carpet tape. That also sticks very well to everything but, like the Velcro, doesn't adhere to the vinyl headliner foam-backing. My goal here was to make it removable (in case I wanted to add/change something later) but the next attempt will be to use 3M spray adhesive which will make it pretty permanent.
I cut the material larger than needed then trimmed it once it was in place with a good pair of scissors. You'll want 1 to 2" (or as needed) extra headliner material around the edges of the cardboard. I used a putty knife to tuck the excess material up above the cardboard into the gap. If it has trouble staying in place, use some of the double-side carpet tape.

For the sidewalls I used trunk liner material (carpet would probably work just as well). It was inexpensive and easy to work with. I sticks well to the hook-side of the Velcro. Disclaimer: I have several pieces around my corners and around the doors because I haven't learned to cut material around curves:confused:. A lot of trial/error, but the edges of the material blend together well and stick to the hook-side of the Velcro and the double-sided carpet tape. Did I mention I'm not a carpet installer?

I hope I explained it well enough. Let me know if more explanation is needed.

Here are the links to the materials. Most are inexpensive and easy to work with, except the cardboard is a little difficult to cut.
Good luck!

https://smile.amazon.com/Dynamat-11103-Dynaliner-Self-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001JT5NIU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ZMHQVJMAV67X&keywords=Dynamat+11103+Dynaliner+32%22+x+54%22+x+1 %2F2%22+Thick&qid=1663256094&s=automotive&sprefix=dynamat+11103+dynaliner+32+x+54+x+1%2F2+th ick+%2Cautomotive%2C170&sr=1-1

https://www.automotiveinteriors.com/waterproof-cardboard-door-panel-board-cowlboard-p/cowl-dp.htm

(https://www.automotiveinteriors.com/waterproof-cardboard-door-panel-board-cowlboard-p/cowl-dp.htm)https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5JXO94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(https://www.automotiveinteriors.com/waterproof-cardboard-door-panel-board-cowlboard-p/cowl-dp.htm)https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08GFB8C3B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

(https://www.automotiveinteriors.com/waterproof-cardboard-door-panel-board-cowlboard-p/cowl-dp.htm)https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shurtape-1-88-in-x-75-ft-White-Double-sided-Seam-Tape/3407976

(https://www.automotiveinteriors.com/waterproof-cardboard-door-panel-board-cowlboard-p/cowl-dp.htm)https://www.fabricempire.com/vinyl-soft-grain-texture-high-quality-red-thread-quilted-black-fabric-2-x-3-diamond-with-3-8-foam-backing-upholstery-52-wide-sold-by-the-yard.aspx

172529 172530 172531 172532 172533 172534 172535 172536 172537 (https://www.fabricempire.com/vinyl-soft-grain-texture-high-quality-red-thread-quilted-black-fabric-2-x-3-diamond-with-3-8-foam-backing-upholstery-52-wide-sold-by-the-yard.aspx)

[RuffShod]

Allsome explanation!!!

Thanks!!!

[FLFrank35]

Allsome explanation!!!

Thanks!!!

You're welcome, hope it helps!

[McGuyver]

Very nicely done!

[FLFrank35]

172663

[DonS]

Salty Chief, did you get your kit yet? Mines on order and I'm in the process of collecting parts for the build. I'm in The Villages.

[Salty Chief 35]

Not yet. I’ve been gathering parts but have 1 of my kids left in college. I have a 351 Cleveland I’ve been working on and getting ready. Also have a few aesthetic things that I plan on using that I’ve collected. Hopefully towards the end of next fall.
What kit did you end up ordering? What’s your build details?
Respectfully
Jeremie

[johnnyfive]

Looks awesome. Your thread has been helpful as i've started my build.

What kind of Trans cooler did you get? Where did you mount it?

[FLFrank35]

Looks awesome. Your thread has been helpful as i've started my build.

What kind of Trans cooler did you get? Where did you mount it?

Thanks! Glad I could help someone. I Received a lot of help on this forum, as this is my first build.
I mounted it under the rear, left side of the bed, above the fuel tank. If you didn't see it, here are a couple pictures from my thread...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132249&d=1595440705&thumb=1 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132250&d=1595440728&thumb=1

Wallace18 put one in his truck and has some good pics at his thread, post #105 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26958-Wallace18-s-35-Hot-Rod-Pickup/page3
(https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26958-Wallace18-s-35-Hot-Rod-Pickup/page3)He recommended it to me, so I got the same one...

Part # 57313211 Perma-Cool 13211 Maxi-Cool Jr. 6-Pass Transmission Cooler w/8 Inch Fan https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Perma-Cool-13211-Maxi-Cool-Jr-6-Pass-Transmission-Cooler-w-8-Inch-Fan,97986.html
(http://Part # 57313211 Perma-Cool 13211 Maxi-Cool Jr. 6-Pass Transmission Cooler w/8 Inch Fan)Part # 91064044 Speedway Budget 40-Amp Electric Relay Kit https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Budget-40-Amp-Electric-Relay-Kit,7052.html
Part # 57318899 Perma-Cool 18899 Inline 185 Degree Thermoswitch, -6 AN https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Perma-Cool-18899-Inline-185-Degree-Thermoswitch-6-AN,97988.html

Good luck!

[DonS]

Jeremie, lost your post. Extended cab ordered, due April 8,23. ZZ4, holly sniper, 4L60E, 8.8 mustang 3.55 posi, power brakes, A/C. Still trying to decide on fenders, full vs motorcycle, too much rain here in Fl. to go bare. DonS

[Salty Chief 35]

Sent pm
Respectfully
Jeremie

[Grandpas Garage]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll study it and see how that might work.

Good luck unpacking.

I drilled and tapped a1/4" hole in the frame mounting ear to match the 1/4" hole in the radiator bracket. Can't move anymore!