Seths 33- 1133. Famous guy donut post.

[sethmark]

Since today is my completion date with factory five, I figured I’d go ahead and start a thread. This is my second factory five car, the first being a mark 1/2 from 2001 which I finished in 2013. It was a car that a buddy mine had started and couldn’t get through.


This car is an engineering project for my 12-year-old daughter. She is a math whiz and ultimately wants to go to MIT. I figured we would start a project together so that she can learn all sorts of skills that will translate through the rest of her life.

The basics of this car will not deviate much. We are building a full-bodied roadster with the 32 hood and grill. I tend to like a more traditional line, so to start with we’re going to use piecrust style tires and wheels and I’ll probably do a low profile set later on...

Drivetrain
LQ9 HO 6.0L LS
TKO 600
MPS 8.8 with a 355 gear and limited slip
American racing salt flats

While the car is done today, I don’t have a delivery date from Stewart yet. However, parts have been ordered and are starting to flow.

[FF33rod]

Excellent, welcome back! love father/kid projects, look forward to seeing your build progress...

[Straversi]

Love the plan and the inspiration. Big fan of the pie crust tire look and also favor the new 32 grill. I’ll watch this one closely. Your daughter is already a lock at MIT since no one else will have an application letter like hers.
-Steve

[sethmark]

Thanks. Garage is prepped. $300 window unit rules.... it’s 99 outside and 76 in the garage. Genius.

[sethmark]

I have a delivery window!!! 2 weeks out give or take. That will work out great. Excited to move forward.

[sethmark]

Someday.... this is gonna be a car...

[sethmark]

Another piece of the puzzle. Hopefully the car will arrive shorty. Expecting it in a day or two.

[sethmark]

Stewart called. Tomorrow.

[sethmark]

Hell yeah brother!!

[FF33rod]

Congrats! let the games begin.... ;)

[JimLev]

Have fun, enjoy the build.
Good to see your using an LS, lots of potential upgrades can be found everywhere.

[coolair247]

What brand is your lift and where did you purchase it?

[sethmark]

Done! Lol

[sethmark]

What brand is your lift and where did you purchase it?
Bendpak md-6xp. I bought it used but summit will ship for free. Worth every penny. This will be the 4th car that lives on it for months. Plus it’s great for everything else. My suburban will go on it safely.

[sread]

Great choice on the wheels/tires! I'm going for the old school look also. Can you share the specs/sizes of the wheels and tires? and which brakes you are using.

[sethmark]

Great choice on the wheels/tires! I'm going for the old school look also. Can you share the specs/sizes of the wheels and tires? and which brakes you are using.

Theyre coker Firestone 10-16 Cheater slicks with a 5-16 Firestone dirt track front. 16" wheel. I bought the small brake package from an sn95 rear and the standard brake from ffr. Might still need a small spacer to clear. TBD. Wheels and tires were on the steel 33 ffr built for SEMA.

[sethmark]

6 hours later we made it through inventory. Not awful on the POL or missed parts. Good job FFR!

The body is officially in my dining room.

[coolair247]

Thanks!

[sethmark]

Thanks!
You’re most welcome. I’m amazed that guys build cars without a lift. I’ve run the car up and down at least 10 times already.

[sethmark]

In house powder coat is convenient.

[sethmark]

First parts out of oven.

[sethmark]

I’m a pragmatic man and this works for me.

[sethmark]

First assembled parts. SFSG. Kid is engaged and helpful.

109297

[sethmark]

Decided, perhaps foolishly, to gloss black exposed parts. I’ve prepped the heck out of the powder coat. Hopefully the chassis black will bond nicely. It’s got a ton of ceramic in it...


109378

[sethmark]

Rear axle made an appearance finally. The front tires are excellent for moving it around!

All the suspension parts have been assembled and prepped. My daughter and I should have the car rolling by the weekend.

[sethmark]

Rear.

Tip: Coil overs fit in slot towards rear of car. Ffr shipped the wrong spacers.

Second tip: Bottom of coil over is 1” spacer, coilover, .125” spacer. Also not as described.

[sethmark]

I hate to do things twice but I really hate doing things wrong. The satin powder coat on the frame was wrong. Needed to be a prismatic gloss black. So. Back to powder.

[duff33]

You will find that is common to "put it together and take it apart" over and over

[sethmark]

You will find that is common to "put it together and take it apart" over and over
Yeah. I know. Three times for everything.

[sethmark]

Waiting for chassis to return from powder.....

[sethmark]

Today I’ll be brutally honest... The hardest part of this whole process is teaching and not fussing.


With the chassis still in powder coat, we moved on to prepping parts for installation. I figured we would learn how to do a little stainless steel polishing. Probably the least likely part for anyone to ever see, but the clutch and brake switches are now mirror.

And she’s gonna be WIDE.

[TxMike64]

I see you left your calipers on the back of the axle housing... Have a plan for the e-brake cables?

[sethmark]

I see you left your calipers on the back of the axle housing... Have a plan for the e-brake cables?


Update on this....
this is the cable to use. Plenty long and works perfectly. No caliper changes.

Raybestos BC95740 Professional Grade Parking Brake Cable

[TxMike64]

...Is there something I’m missing?

I believe the manual says to swap the calipers and brackets left-to-right to put the calipers on the front of the housing. The main reason given is so the e-brake cables reach.

I'm trying to find out for sure what everyone is doing, as I'm refreshing my 8.8 and need to know if I actually do need to swap the brackets and calipers. I don't really want to pull the axles if I don't need to.

[sethmark]

The cables I posted are right.
On another note, I finally got the frame back from powder. Time to assemble in earnest.

[sethmark]

Front and rear suspension is in the books. Spindles, front brakes and hubs are all prepped. Nice and easy.

110060

Tip. Pancake porta power makes opening brackets super easy and scratch free.

110066110067

[sethmark]

-Getting the toeboard’s in and out without scratching the powder coat is an utter challenge. I have video of both if anyone is interested. I may just post it.


For the GEN two guys that have installed the firewall already, I have some overlap over the door frame. Should I trim this back and flush? Additionally, how good a gap did you get between the toe boards and the firewall itself?

[FF33rod]

overlap with the door frame? Are you referring to your first pic? if so, that extended bit of the firewall is what attaches to the body just forward of the door... so no, you don't trim it flush. (I'm pretty sure the construction in this area hasn't been changed with Gen 2).

Steve

[sethmark]

Thanks, Steve. That’s what I’m referring to. I guess my next step is to try and get the car more level on the lift, and then level the firewall.

[peterh226]

Put a block on the frame at the entrance to the Transmission tunnel. This sets the height of the firewall - its flush that piece or tubing. Everything lined up great from there. Putting the the lower pieces is a test of your problem solving skills. Some ways it drops right in, other ways it will never fit!

[sethmark]

Putting the the lower pieces is a test of your problem solving skills. Some ways it drops right in, other ways it will never fit!

You’re not kidding. Doing it with fresh gloss powder coat ups the challenge substantially. There was a period of time this afternoon where I thought it was impossible. However it is possible, but only one way. Both sides are a pain.

How much overlap did you have on the gusset that the steering bearing is near?

[peterh226]

Here you go. 110122

[sethmark]

The downside to 12-year-old help is occasionally I have to use my words, which sometimes I forget to do....

Needless to say there was an error made, fortunately I have a tig the house and was able to fill it and keep moving.

[1932]

But that is how we all learned, i am very happy to see your 12 year girl working on the car!

[sethmark]

But that is how we all learned, i am very happy to see your 12 year girl working on the car!
Without a doubt.The onus is on me to teach. If I don’t explain what I want, she has to guess. It’s not her fault.

[wrp]

12 year olds don't make mistakes, They etch lifelong memories that serve as benchmarks for us all. I would not touch those minor scratches. Congratulations on the best build I have seen. Kudos for your daughter. Tell her to kick the old man to the curb and continue with her build. It will happen.

110266

[sethmark]

Got to have a shot of the rolling chassis right?

[sethmark]

With my daughter off to summer camp for three weeks, my pace has slowed to a crawl. Kind of a pain in the neck to promise to not do too much while she was gone....But I did receive my POL, and have made some substantive changes to my plan. Other good news is the 6.0L is in the middle of its reconditioning and should be done this week.

[FF33rod]

Seth
I notice you have a MC for a hydraulic clutch, what size bore is it? Most don't use the 0.75" bore that FF has in their hydraulic clutch option. It usually doesn't result in enough travel of the slave or hydraulic throwout bearing

Steve

[sethmark]

Steve,
Thank you for the heads up. I was aware of the potential. However, I figured I would wait and see if it worked. It’s bought and paid for and my combination of throwout bearing may be different enough to be satisfied with the results. If not, I’ll change it. Like everything else with this car, I try it...if it doesn’t work, I chuck it.

Part of the experience for my daughter is teaching her to be patient and understand that it’s OK to work iteratively. We don’t have to nail it out of the gate. She has to be willing to modify, adapt and make things work through experience.

[FF33rod]

Perfect. good strategy. I tried it, didn't give me enough throw with my RAM bearing. Just put in the new MC (1.125") last night but will be awhile before I bleed the system and try it out. Good luck keeping hands off for 3 weeks ;) Cheers

[sethmark]

I wouldn’t call it hands off, more like tidy the details. Hardlines are the perfect project for alone time.

[HVACMAN]

With my daughter off to summer camp for three weeks, my pace has slowed to a crawl. Kind of a pain in the neck to promise to not do too much while she was gone....But I did receive my POL, and have made some substantive changes to my plan. Other good news is the 6.0L is in the middle of its reconditioning and should be done this week.

I don't have any experience with the Gen. II frame but I had to swap the thermostat housing for a swivel type and I had to change the exhaust manifolds for my LS3.

[sethmark]

I don't have any experience with the Gen. II frame but I had to swap the thermostat housing for a swivel type and I had to change the exhaust manifolds for my LS3.

Thank you for the heads up

[sethmark]

Better.... I hope.

I’m Sure their way was sufficient, but better is better.

[sethmark]

After much deliberation and a whole bunch of test fits, I made some decisions on the master cylinder reservoirs.


100% percent hidden hardware and hoses. Bonded firewall. Total shave look.

Now to see if I can pull it off.

Kid gets home on Sunday and I have to take apart all the pre-fit so that she can assemble.

[TDSapp]

After much deliberation and a whole bunch of test fits, I made some decisions on the master cylinder reservoirs.


100% percent hidden hardware and hoses. Bonded firewall. Total shave look.

Now to see if I can pull it off.

Kid gets home on Sunday and I have to take apart all the pre-fit so that she can assemble.

Are you going with a hood on the car? I ask because I am not sure if the hood and the hood pins will clear where you have your reservoirs? I can't really help with that because I am going hoodless so I am not exactly sure where it hits.


Tim

[sethmark]

No hood. If I add the hood later, I’ll have to get creative if there’s a conflict. This was a real pain to find just the right spot and hide everything.

[FF33rod]

I agree, a total pain to try to find where to put it a triple reservoir. I didn't really want to drill through frame so I gave up and went individual. Good job!

[sethmark]

I agree, a total pain to try to find where to put it a triple reservoir. I didn't really want to drill through frame so I gave up and went individual. Good job!

It’s funny, we drilled hundreds of holes for rivets, but one hole in the least structural part was a really tough sell for me.

In the end, it was the only spot that yielded the clean look I was after. Right or wrong, it’s what I did. If I decide later on I hate it, I have the technology to fix it.

[Michael101]

What ore you’re thoughts on doing the bonded firewall? I actually ordered a second firewall set because I’m thinking of using a 3M adhesive instead of bolting the firewall aluminum in place.

[sethmark]

What ore you’re thoughts on doing the bonded firewall? I actually ordered a second firewall set because I’m thinking of using a 3M adhesive instead of bolting the firewall aluminum in place.

I’ve used it before, most recently to install a floor pan in a jeep that I didn’t want to tear up the paint on the outer rocker. It is ridiculously strong. They do require bare metal to bare metal in order to guarantee good adhesion. But that’s not a big deal.


As for whether or not it’s a good idea, I can’t think of any reason I would ever take the firewall out of an assembled car. And frankly, if I need to take it out it’s not impossible. It would require a heat gun....

The biggest issue that I can foresee is that you get one crack at it. And then every accessory mounted to the firewall has to be carefully planned out. Now with that said, I anticipate only having the reservoirs and the overflow bottle mounted to it.

[sethmark]

Finally my progeny is home and we continue with actual progress..... Engine is still on dyno, so I’ve been focusing on prefitting for her return. Today we reassembled the grill and installed it for the first time. Fuel system is now loosely plumbed and I’m waiting on fittings. Brakes are done, except for bleeding.

[sethmark]

Happy so far.

[sethmark]

Had to go for a drive.

[wrp]

Had to go for a drive.This is my favorite build

[sethmark]

This is my favorite build

That’s very sweet. We are having a grand old time.

[sethmark]

The firewall is back from powder coat. Now to see if I can get it bonded. Engine is about ready to ship as well.

Did I mention I have an unreasonable relationship with blue tape?


111571111572111573

[TDSapp]

Did I mention I have an unreasonable relationship with blue tape?



I do as well... One year for Christmas I received an odd shaped present from my wife. I could not figure it out and kept feeling of it to see what it was. Turns out it was a 12 pack of blue tape. I was thrilled! I use it when working on the Hot Rod and when working on one of my Rockets. You will always find blue tape at our house.

[sethmark]

Tim.... I’m glad I’m not alone. It was getting lonely in crazy town.

[JimLev]

Engine is about ready to ship as well.

111573

Seth, is that the LS engine your going to use? (nice intake manifold)

I found the 2 coolant pipes for the heater and the t-stat outlet was too close to the frame.
I pulled out the pipe fittings, threaded the holes, and screwed in 45° fittings.
For the t-stat outlet I used one that swivels.

111620

111621

111622

[HVACMAN]

Ditto what Jim said about the swivel t-stat housing. I would suggest you put a light coat of RTV on both sides of the o-ring when you install the stat. It's not fun to go back and it after everything is installed on the front of the car. Ask me how I know. I did use molded 90 degree heater hoses instead of changing the stock nipples.

[sethmark]

Thanks for the heads up, gentlemen. Any idea on the thread pitch?

btw.... panel bond prep is more work than drilling and tapping.

[Michael101]

I’m thinking it’ll be worth it! What’s the plan for firewall to the fiberglass body lip?

[sethmark]

I’m thinking it’ll be worth it! What’s the plan for firewall to the fiberglass body lip?

Probably gloss rivets. Not committed yet.

[JimLev]

Any idea on the thread pitch?



1/4 x 14 NPT and 3/8 x 18 NPT.
I found the brass 45º fittings on Amazon.
Harbor Freight also sell these taps but they are garbage, at least the ones I looked at were.

[sethmark]

I think it turned out fairly well. Interestingly, the corner Of the seam catches the light really aggressively and makes it look like a huge gap....there’s no gap.

[FF33rod]

Looks great! Gloss or Satin - looks like satin. I just pulled mine off and am brushing the aluminum and putting a satin clear on it....

[sethmark]

Looks great! Gloss or Satin - looks like satin. I just pulled mine off and am brushing the aluminum and putting a satin clear on it....

Very gloss. Prismatic powder USA-2603 to be exact.

[sethmark]

Kid sure enjoyed this part. The previous fiddly stuff not so much.

[wrp]

Kid sure enjoyed this part. The previous fiddly stuff not so much.I think you are having the most fun build ever posted. I would love to be a fly on the wall when you reach the go kart stage :) Looking at her face, I think you need to start planning your replacement car

[sethmark]

I think you are having the most fun build ever posted. I would love to be a fly on the wall when you reach the go kart stage :) Looking at her face, I think you need to start planning your replacement car

Thank you for the kind words. I’m trying my best to make it fun. I think she loves it because I want her to, which is wonderfully sweet.

The hard part for me is teaching. As for a replacement car, I will have to wait and see. Certainly the mechanics of this thing are in my wheel house. I can build go carts any day of the week.

However, I’m curious to see how the bodywork goes. That’s uncharted territory.

What’s interesting for me to read is the difference in satisfaction with the parts from builder to builder. Perhaps my expectations are low due to enough years of building with garbage, but I think everything fits great. I have no expectations of anything going together right, once, the first time. Fitting every part is expected.

I’m hoping that’s what my kid learns from all this. Be a problem solver.

[sread]

I think having those expectations really gives you a head start. I really feel for the guys that try and tackle one of these things without much previous hands on mechanical experience. I have been working on cars, motorcycles, aircraft, and even boats for close to 50 years and it is challenging to me as well as frustrating at times. It calls on pretty much every skill I have acquired through the years. And I really cringe at the thought of building one of these cars without the use of a lift - man, I don't think I could do it now without it - but that is largely a by product of getting up in age.
One thing is certain though, your daughter is gonna be one popular young lady. Great job!

[sethmark]

She believes deep down inside that she’s going to be driving a 2100#, 430hp to school everyday.

[JimLev]

She believes deep down inside that she’s going to be driving a 2100#, 430hp to school everyday.

You've got to let her do it at least once. Put a piece of wood under the go pedal so it won't go to the floor.

[sethmark]

She will have earned it. Lord knows, by the time we get the go cart I might be tempted to let her drive around the neighborhood. It is a private road.

[wrp]

I think you hit it on the head about problem solving. Some of the builders here are engineers or automotive professionals. Figuring out how to establish the centerline on the roof or hood isn't a big deal. Some of us have pursued other skills most of our lives and we tend to lose those skills; like how do I get the holes for the roll bar in the waterfall just right. Developing those skills up front in a 12 year old is a priceless parenting point. Having a 12 year old that will hang with you and is interested means you've done something right. I raised two daughters. I'm still betting you'll be waving to her as she drives off to school.

[sethmark]

I hope you’re right.

[sethmark]

Sophia and I pushed the car out today to check out the firewall in the sunshine and get the chassis turned on the lift for the engine install. We’re pretty much at an impasse until the motor install. Cooling, fuel and electrical are all prepped.

[sethmark]

Minor change of plan.... upgraded to 3 link.

[sethmark]

Fuel system is basically plumbed. We decided to mount it behind the waterfall and out of the elements. Lots of piddling until the motor FINALLY arrives next week.

[sethmark]

Pressure tested the brake system this am. Failed! FOMOCO rear caliper is leaking. No wonder I’m a Chevy guy.:D:cool:
I actually think the banjo is leaking, but haven’t gotten a replacement yet.

[sethmark]

With the LS on a truck due in on Tuesday, we’ve been messing with busy work. Nothing like a couple of hundred holes to teach a kid to drill.

[sethmark]

This is highly convenient.


https://youtu.be/JFJRmk0EkVM

[JimLev]

Lucky you. That's one job that never seemed to end.

[sethmark]

Lucky you. That's one job that never seemed to end.

We counted 216 rivets. So that means 432 drilled holes. She drilled the aluminum on the table before we fitted the panel. She did All the aluminum and half of the install drilling. Nothing overhead or potentially dangerous. The last thing I need is an optometrist visit to boot.

[FF33rod]

Surprised how quickly she's able to drill into the steel without putting much weight into it. My bits must be extremely dull.
After she's done there, send her on over to help out here! :)

[Straversi]

Nothing overhead or potentially dangerous. The last thing I need is an optometrist visit to boot.
Get her some eye protection anyway, please... Good habit to start early.
Love that you are doing this with your daughter, btw.
-Steve

[sethmark]

Get her some eye protection anyway, please... Good habit to start early.
Love that you are doing this with your daughter, btw.
-Steve

Oh we got the whole station!

[sethmark]

Close your eyes if you’re embarrassed by LS porn...

Now to paint and park....

[FF33rod]

112292

LOL
Another milestone, have fun!

[sethmark]

I preach the importance of details to my guys and my daughter like a psycho.... today I failed to heed my words. Badly.

The kid and I started strong. Took the floors to work to powder and they turned out lovely.

112417

So then we checked parallel of the flywheel, concentricity of the Bellhousing and did the clutch.

112418112419112420

Finally, I installed the throwout bearing. Measure gap and assembled.... and found that 0.50 is more than 0.050. Pretty sloppy for a machinist. But I’m getting old.......... at least that’s the excuse.

Either way, pull it apart and add shims.
112421112422

Hopefully install all Sunday with exhaust and floors.

[JimLev]

Love that intake.

[sethmark]

This went well. Everything lined right up and dropped right in. Having the lift worked a trick. Being able to raise the car to the motor instead of trying to drop the hoist was super convenient....

112509

112512

[sethmark]

Passenger Side exhaust hits the frame at the end of the J pipe.

112569

I went ahead and stacked the included spacer, tig welded them together and requested a third spacer from factory five. Problem solved.

112570112571

[sethmark]

I can taste the first start........ soon. Ls engine side wiring is complete. I hate the alt. mounted high, that will have to change. The kid really liked plugging in the harness. Something tactile about it I suppose.

112726

112725


I think the underside of this car may be its prettiest. The gloss black floor pans and plated oil pan pop.....
112727

112728

[FF33rod]

Looking great Seth. Hey part of the problem with that alternator location is the size and look of the alternator itself. The one I got with my March pulley system is significantly smaller and is chromed - would be less obtrusive than the one you have IMO.

[sread]

Are you gonna keep the knock sensors? I don't have any previous experience with the LS but what little I have read seems to say that as soon as you stray from the stock configuration re: engine mounts, chassis, different cam, etc that they will no longer work correctly.
It also looks like the FFR downpipes put the o2 bungs right on the very bottom of the pipe - where they will collect condensation - i.e. not where you want them to be.

[sethmark]

This is an early gen iii and is pretty stupid. The later reluctor wheel motors are more finicky. If it doesn’t work, I’ll deal with it.

As for the 02 sensor, it’s not mounted in a horizontal tube, so I would expect condensation to be minimal at that angle. Again... if they start acting up, I’ll fix. But for now, I don’t see any problem. My approach is very practical. If it’s a problem it gets resolved. If it MIGHT Be a problem, I’ll be prepared but not fearful. The internet doesn’t scare me.

[Michael101]

I’m running a LSX 408 in my Chevelle with factory knock sensors and stock type ECM with no issues. I’ve had several modded LS Engines over the years and haven’t had any knock sensor issues. Sensitivity is easy to adjust if something gets funky.

[sread]

I’m running a LSX 408 in my Chevelle with factory knock sensors and stock type ECM with no issues. I’ve had several modded LS Engines over the years and haven’t had any knock sensor issues. Sensitivity is easy to adjust if something gets funky.

that's good to know - this is the first one I have messed around with and it will be a while before it is up and running, but when I did a little research on it it seemed many guys said to just get rid of them

[sethmark]

Busy day of problem creating and solving. Exhaust is still an issue. I had to space the trans up a quarter which killed the exhaust work. It needs another 1/2" spacing down. Not a deal breaker.

Started muddling through the harness and it’s a packaging quandary. The ac evap unit eats a bunch of space.

112891

I have to get the computer, tac module, fuse panel for the engine and the factory wiring in that space. Just takes time. Meanwhile, I needed some measurements and some questions answered, so I drug out the body and tires.... tires won’t work. The rear is huge and doesn’t package. They’re bias anyway.

I spent several hours getting the suspension and ride height nailed down. Not a big deal, but not as it sounds isn’t the book.

Anyway. Onwards.

112892

112894

[sethmark]

I’m starting to see the light on electrical packaging. The big key was thinking 90°. I think I’m going to permanently mount the ECM this way. It’s the only thing that frees up any floor space for the remaining fuse panel and TAC module.

[JimLev]

I took off most of the plastic corrugated tubing off the wires then wrapped the wires with automotive cloth tape. This reduced the diameter of the bundles by up to 50%.

[sethmark]

LS and chassis?

[JimLev]

Mostly on all of the ECU wiring that was behind the dash and under the tranny tunnel.
Also both fuse boxes. I left the wiring on the engine side of the firewall as it was.

113064

113065

[HVACMAN]

I used a modified version of what Jim did. 376/480 LS3 & Gen 1. I kept all the rear wiring inside the car. 113088113089113090113091113086113087

[sethmark]

It’s remarkable how much time I spend thinking about wiring the car and how little time I spend actually wiring the car. Lay out the harness, be unhappy, put it all back. Rinse and repeat. The rear section took way too long. The front section took way too long. I don’t wanna look at it, I wanted to all be totally hidden. Unfortunately, it takes wires to make a car go bang.

under dash makes me want to cry. My ocd is being tested.

[Michael101]

Totally feel that pain Seth. On my Chevelle I built the wiring harness from scratch in order to hide it as much as possible. I have PDF wiring diagrams that might help if you want them.113159

[sethmark]

Thanks. I’m just about done. But I sweat the details. Takes longer.

[1932]

113432113433

[sethmark]

I My goal was for the kid to turn the key by Labor Day. If the fuel line wasn’t 18" too short we could. Now to wait for parts from summit.

Funny the things you can’t plan for. I had no idea that the factory alternator location blocks the an fitting on the fuel rail to allow the crossover to be mounted up front. Silly...but it is what it is.

I have decided to forgo the bias drag tires for radials and go with a smaller tire in the rear. Just not enough clearance.

Battery install was sanitary. Underdash less so. Cold air intake needs one more cut.

[sethmark]

Not a total waste of a day... we finished most of the aluminum with the exception of the kicks and tunnel. Dropped the seat in and mocked up the gas pedal. Brake pedal feels fantastic. Started mock-up on radiator hoses and coolant overflow.

113670

113671

[JimLev]

Is that the seat FF is now supplying for the 33? I like it.

[sethmark]

Is that the seat FF is now supplying for the 33? I like it.

no. It’s the truck bench. An option gen2.

[HVACMAN]

It’s remarkable how much time I spend thinking about wiring the car and how little time I spend actually wiring the car. Lay out the harness, be unhappy, put it all back. Rinse and repeat. The rear section took way too long. The front section took way too long. I don’t wanna look at it, I wanted to all be totally hidden. Unfortunately, it takes wires to make a car go bang.

under dash makes me want to cry. My ocd is being tested.

I used the Can-Bus gauges from Speedhut. They daisy chain and plug into the OBD II connector. It reduced the dash wiring by at least 50%.

[sethmark]

CAN is 2008 and newer. I’m running an older computer.

[sethmark]

We have fuel to the rail... in theory at least. Can’t fill the gas tank until after the hurricane. I might need it!

Intake is mostly mocked up. What a pain... there’s just not enough space for everything to make it look sanitary. But I’m trying. Ordered a new, small filter for immediately in front of the the MAF. HOPEFULLY, I won’t regret it.

[sethmark]

Engine builds oil pressure, spins over with key... first fire tomorrow with any luck. Need to fill the trans.

[sethmark]

Best 30 grand I ever spent.


https://youtu.be/HDad1eHF3fY

[JimLev]

Sounds good.
Only $30K.....your not done yet.

[sethmark]

Mufflers would have helped.... but ruined the reaction.

[FF33rod]

30K, you've barely started ;) The video and reaction, priceless....

[sethmark]

30K, you've barely started ;) The video and reaction, priceless....

Boy you guys are hung up on the number! :cool:









We all know the truth....:p

[JimLev]

Nah, we're just here to help you spend $$$.

[sethmark]

Nah, we're just here to help you spend $$$.

please don’t tell SWMBO.

[sethmark]

I don’t like the corrugated hoses. So I bent up some 1.5" stainless tube. Still playing with the upper..... the stainless should polish up nicely.

[Plimpton]

I am building kit#1128 so, although I don’t read often, I’m following the gen 2 builds fairly closely. I admire your progress so far. This pic prompted me to write... I’m surprised there is not more chatter about the fuel plumbing. It’s been a head scratcher for me. I recently discovered that the standard F5 fuel lines nor the F5 efi option package was compatible with my 302 SBF with Sniper EFI setup from Blueprint so I’m basically starting from scratch. My question for you is, did you run the black braided hoses exposed underneath the car? I’m trying to decide whether to transition from hoses (at tank) to steel (under car) and back to hoses (at engine). Finding fittings for this is a challenge. Maybe other readers can jump in with comments. Sorry for the long post on your thread.

[sethmark]

I ran the braided all the way with AN fittings. I have no idea why they would suggest that the EFI rated line is unacceptable for the sniper. In hindsight I would skip their EFI kit and piecemeal it myself, as I have a lot of leftovers, but it turned out how I wanted. No regrets.

[sethmark]

Trans tunnel. Not excited.

[Plimpton]

Trans tunnel. Not excited.
With wiring approaching, didn’t want to run fuel in trans tunnel. Thanks for your input. I’m pretty sure I’m going to run 3/8” flared steel tubes under car and then, I found some flare x an adapters from Fragola (pricey, but seems they are the only ones who make this particular fitting) that will transition me to -6an hoses for the fitting work at tank and throttle body. Thx again.

[sethmark]

Shoot me and email and I will send you pictures of the entire system as I ran it.

Seth@offroadmarketing.com

[FF33rod]

I am building kit#1128 so, although I don’t read often, I’m following the gen 2 builds fairly closely. I admire your progress so far. This pic prompted me to write... I’m surprised there is not more chatter about the fuel plumbing. It’s been a head scratcher for me. I recently discovered that the standard F5 fuel lines nor the F5 efi option package was compatible with my 302 SBF with Sniper EFI setup from Blueprint so I’m basically starting from scratch. My question for you is, did you run the black braided hoses exposed underneath the car? I’m trying to decide whether to transition from hoses (at tank) to steel (under car) and back to hoses (at engine). Finding fittings for this is a challenge. Maybe other readers can jump in with comments. Sorry for the long post on your thread.

I have the Sniper EFI as you. Ran 3/8 hard lines down the passenger side for both feed and return. Used Russell Performance 640610 for the hard line to steel braided hose transition in the engine compartment. Have a look at post #91 (pg 3) of my build thread, there's a pic there that shows it. PM me if you want more details.
Steve

[sethmark]

I think I’m going to successfully build this car with NOTHING below the frame. If nothing else it makes trailer loading easier...

[JOP33]

I think I’m going to successfully build this car with NOTHING below the frame. If nothing else it makes trailer loading easier...

That's saying something...my lower radiator hose is the lowest point on my car :(, and of course the tip of the Grill only sits 4" off the ground :(.

[sethmark]

Not super productive this weekend, but I started on the trans tunnel, finished the coolant hoses, finished the intake and got the clutch bled.


https://youtu.be/TsInumN8BRA

[Plimpton]

I have the Sniper EFI as you. Ran 3/8 hard lines down the passenger side for both feed and return. Used Russell Performance 640610 for the hard line to steel braided hose transition in the engine compartment. Have a look at post #91 (pg 3) of my build thread, there's a pic there that shows it. PM me if you want more details.
Steve
Steve, thanks for the info. I looked at to photos you referred to. Yes, that is what I had in mind. Of course, the devil is in the specific routing, bending and clamping the hard tubing but, I’ll give it my best attempt. Your a/c lines have me thinking about what to do on mine. Yours look really good. Thanks to all for your input. I always am amazed and thankful for the collective knowledge from fellow builders and your willingness to share.

[sethmark]

I’ve now unwired most of the car to get the tunnel in place. I do NOT like the grommets and am actively seeking a better idea. Either way, it’ll get done. Rear tires arrived today and I’m pleased. My look will be more symmetrical but without the low profile ride penalty. Rear tire is a hair over 26.5" tall and 10.5" wide. Front measures at 23. Both on 16" wheels....
114058 114057

Intake is done.

114060 114059

[sethmark]

Oh...and to answer the most common question I get.... 48" lift height. $2000.

[sethmark]

Handful of loose ends and we drive. Biggest trick was getting it off the lift and turned 90*.

Waiting for fittings to finish the steam port. I had to drill and tap the filler neck to get it to recirc. Other than that it’s seat, belts, and coolant.

[sethmark]

https://youtu.be/nXVnDKqFXhw

[sethmark]

After two months of efficient, successful building, karma caught up to me. There have been a whole bunch of little, needling issues that have gotten in the way of driving chassis.

The transmission tunnel has put up nothing but a fight. It doesn’t fit real well and it does interfere with the transmission a little. I believe I fit it to the car at least 20 times. Every time I think I’ve got it, I try another piece of the puzzle and it doesn’t work. For example, I had the tunnel fit, test fit the seat and now the bench seat interferes ... where it didnt before adding the center.

Additionally, a bit of my firewall panel bond popped at the thinnest portion of the corner. I haven’t decided how to remedy the problem... options being re-bond the corner or put a screw through it to hold it in place permanently. Fortunately, it is in a spot that is very discreet and a screw would not be noticeable.

Additionally, getting the wiring nested nicely has really put my patience to a test. I have fully wired and unwired the car three times. I’ve tossed about 100’ of unused wire and I just am not happy with how the harness lays. In due time...

Anyway. The car starts like the donor Escalade and comes up to temp nicely. I’m sure will be a blast to drive when I sort out the last details.

Until I get it right it sits. Adding to the chaos, my wife took a job in southwest Virginia and it appears that we’re going to be relocating in the next couple of months. Kind of a normal thing for us due to the nature of her work, but it does make getting the car finished a real challenge. However, it’s much easier to register the car in Virginia than Georgia. That’s good news.

[sethmark]

Need to do a preflight checklist tomorrow and I’m driving.

Car delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19.

With any any luck we drive 9-24-19. Now comes the part I have no idea how to do.........

[peterh226]

Need to do a preflight checklist tomorrow and I’m driving.

Car delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19.

With any any luck we drive 9-24-19. Now comes the part I have no idea how to do.........
Just the next phase of the adventure. There are lots of folks that will provide ‘guidance’.

[sethmark]

https://youtu.be/UdBU-FSFi6Q

[sethmark]

And first drive.

I wasn’t really ready to go anywhere, so it’s brief.


https://youtu.be/40lL7FMbJDg

[HVACMAN]

Awesome!!!

[1932]

Nothing better than the first time out.

[sethmark]

https://youtu.be/_Mr-LfQ75Jc

Two seatbelts later, I have a couple of miles on the car. Round and round in circles. Brakes are acceptable. Power is absurd. Steering is excellent, and really good even without the power. And she is friggin fast.

[FF33rod]

Where's the "love it" button.... the giggles are priceless, I suspect some of them were yours ;)

Steve

[sethmark]

Where's the "love it" button.... the giggles are priceless, I suspect some of them were yours ;)

Steve
I’m not admitting to squat....:p;)

[peterh226]

Awesome. I’m getting there!! Guess I’ll need some wheels first! Enjoy

[sethmark]

Onward.... body on.
114989

Lower lip of firewall flange hits frame. I assume that’s a straight cut all the way down?
114990

And my first official WTF?
Really? The body hits the gas return? Cut flange?
114991

[peterh226]

The body is a new adventure..
- I trimmed quite a bit around the lower half of the firewall flange and down around the frame. I used the firewall to drive the front mounting of the body. Then the side by the doors where the screws (or whatever) will hold the door sill area to the body I trimmed the body around the frame so that it was not resting on the frame but had a little space. I expect the hood side lowers and the fenders to fit to the body in this area as well.
114996 114997

I have not put the body back on since doing the fuel stuff, but you be able to trim that flange without any issue. The bigger thing will be waterfall clearance. That I am a bit curious about as well.
I ended up with slots rather than holes in the waterfall. I'm planning to turn these into slots so I can remove the waterfall without taking off the top and roll bar. I'm still debating about glueing (bonding?) the top in place anyway.

[sethmark]

All initial concerns have been resolved. Taking the body on and off a dozen times is a pain. Truly you should do bodywork first. Truly.

Did I mention that this car is friggin fast?

[sethmark]

My neighborhood is 2 miles around on a private road. Now aside from the fact that it would be a built-in racetrack except for the 3 speed bumps, I can drive the Hot Rod as much as I want. Today I just did that. Got the motor up to temp, let the fan kick on, bedded the brakes and enjoyed a brutal hot day in Georgia.

It’s going to be a friggin great car. Responsive, fast, and just cool to look at.

A good day. Enjoy your builds and your weekend.

I appreciate everyone’s counsel!

[1932]

O-boy! That's what this hole thing is about

[40flash]

The car is turning out beautiful. Great work. Can I bother you with a question? I'm looking for a few measurements that aren't on the web site as far as I can tell. I'm wondering how wide the front end is from outside to outside of the front tires. I know this will change depending on what offset wheels I use but curious about yours. Also looking for outside to outside on the frame rails in the area of the rear bulkhead. It appears that the frame is straight so I'm assuming the measurement would be the same all along the seating area? I know you're busy and possibly moving so if it's a lot to ask currently I understand. I'm actually looking at this frame for a Mid-engined Manx project. Would move that beautiful fron end back to just in front of the pedal assembly to get an 85 inch wheelbase. Trying to determine if my manx type body would come close to matching the width of the 33 frame.

[sethmark]

It’s 65" wide at the front tires. The rear bulkhead is too covered up to measure reasonably, but the frame measurements are on the here.

[sethmark]

Took the wife for her first rip around the test track.

[sethmark]

And reading for comprehension failed me. As it turns out there’s a body template for door hinge cut outs and a door doors hinge cut out. My mistake. Time to learn to fiberglass.........

[sethmark]

I need to repair this screw up. I misread....
Should I fill the entire slot or just build up the edge?

[40flash]

That helps a lot. Thanks.


It’s 65" wide at the front tires. The rear bulkhead is too covered up to measure reasonably, but the frame measurements are on the here.

[AJT '33]

I need to repair this screw up. I misread....
Should I fill the entire slot or just build up the edge?

If you have the original piece you cut out, glass it back into place from behind and then recut the slot as you need it. I did the same screw up and took a piece of 2" tape, taped the piece back on covering the entire hole, glassed it from the back with a couple layers of mat and then recut the slot in the proper location about an inch higher than where I had cut it! Teaches me for looking at it upside down at the time!! If you don't have the original piece, cut out the piece and use a portion of it to fill in the area you miscut. The bodywork will take care of the rest.

Have fun!!

[sethmark]

Thanks for your input. Ironically, it was a very innocent mistake. I double checked the part number against the inventory list and was satisfied. I did not realize that there was a door side and a body side. Reading for comprehension failed me.

Needless to say, I fixed it.

[Plimpton]

I just did the first test fit of the body on my build and the conflict with the fuel lines (very similar to yours) was my first discovery (I even have a 2 x 4 in the same place). I loose fit the waterfall in place and it will also conflict with the fuel lines. So, I’m thinking I can’t just cut fiberglass. I’m wondering if I can find a 45 degree fitting but, I think it will still be in the way. Can I ask what you did as a work around?

[sethmark]

I cut it with the expectation of having to modify the waterfall later on.

[sethmark]

So I’ve kind of stalled. I had always intended on driving the chassis for a while before starting body work, and with the impending move to Virginia, I got sidetracked.....

but I’ve been driving the go kart. A lot. I’ve learned that it does NOT LIKE a low gas situation. An inch at the bottom of the tank will not pickup....

It’s fast. It handles. It has a ton of brakes. it’s also loud. I like loud. But I need to get the doors hung, which is a tough proposition with a house for sale. Too much dust.

[HVACMAN]

So I’ve kind of stalled. I had always intended on driving the chassis for a while before starting body work, and with the impending move to Virginia, I got sidetracked.....

but I’ve been driving the go kart. A lot. I’ve learned that it does NOT LIKE a low gas situation. An inch at the bottom of the tank will not pickup....

It’s fast. It handles. It has a ton of brakes. it’s also loud. I like loud. But I need to get the doors hung, which is a tough proposition with a house for sale. Too much dust.

Congratulations on getting to put some miles on your go cart. I envy your situation. My observations were a lot like yours. After reading early posts, my first go cart surprised me. Especially on the braking and the ride. It was not near as rough as expected and stops on a dime.

[sethmark]

Congratulations on getting to put some miles on your go cart. I envy your situation. My observations were a lot like yours. After reading early posts, my first go cart surprised me. Especially on the braking and the ride. It was not near as rough as expected and stops on a dime.

The acceleration is astonishing. I’ve owned a lot of fast cars, from 911‘s to my mk 1 cobra. This is substantially faster. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a 10 second quarter mile. I’m not sure what one of these cars would do with 500 or 600 hp. I can pretty much knock the tires off in any gear anyway.

[sethmark]

Pressing on, I started hinges, door cutouts and brake lights.

[sethmark]

Rough as hell, but the driver door fits in the hole. No surprises or disappointments. Does anyoen secure the bottom of the body to the frame at the firewall?

[HVACMAN]

The acceleration is astonishing. I’ve owned a lot of fast cars, from 911‘s to my mk 1 cobra. This is substantially faster. I wouldn’t be surprised to see a 10 second quarter mile. I’m not sure what one of these cars would do with 500 or 600 hp. I can pretty much knock the tires off in any gear anyway.

It is quick! I went with the larger tire to have at least some hope of keeping it hooked up. Probably not. We will see.

[sethmark]

More doors. Still haven’t gotten the trick of the order of locking down the hinges.

[sethmark]

Trunk lid is done and roughed in. Both doors still don’t feel well. More grind, more struggle.

[JimLev]

More doors. Still haven’t gotten the trick of the order of locking down the hinges.

The doors are a pita. I put the bolts in from the bottom so the nuts are on the top, easier to get to.

[AJT '33]

More doors. Still haven’t gotten the trick of the order of locking down the hinges.

OK, quick question, not sure about the Gen2 doors, but the Gen1 doors had a bracket that would be right up against the back of the door. Once I had the door aligned as good as I could, with the door closed and from the inside, I drilled two 1/4" holes and placed two bolts in to hold that bracket in place and lock the skin to the inner door frame. The heads were on the outside, the nuts inside. That way when I worked the big hinge bolts (you see them in your pic) the shell would no longer slip in any direction. Here are a couple pics showing the bolts. Just an FYI in case you may be having that issue.
115766 In this shot you can see the two hex head bolts heads, I left them there and painted over them.
I could not find an inside door shot, will try and remember to get one tonight if I can. My son and I are helping a friend with terminal cancer getting his car done so he can enjoy it in case he can't beat it.
Andreas

[JOP33]

Nice touch on the copper escutcheons around the hinges, thinking of something similar for my build, but two piece to make removal a bit easier.

[sethmark]

Thanks for the help. My brother has cancer as well. I totally appreciate helping out a friend with an expiration date. It’s super kind.

[1932]

If you are going to have door windows, the glass to top fitting will change with door fitting. My top is permanent but i would think that every time the top was on and off the glass could be a problem. Have fun!

[AJT '33]

If you are going to have door windows, the glass to top fitting will change with door fitting. My top is permanent but i would think that every time the top was on and off the glass could be a problem. Have fun!

I added Alignment pins so it always goes in so the same place. Only needed 2 pins in the back.

[sethmark]

Passenger door went in fine. Drivers door has too much warp. New one incoming....

[Michael101]

Passenger door went in fine. Drivers door has too much warp. New one incoming....

Same here. My driver door just wouldn't line up right, it appeared that they had cut mine wrong from the mold. So I ended up with a replacement and I'm using the original as my test dummy for painting.

[FF33rod]

...I'm using the original as my test dummy for painting.

Handy, great idea!

[sethmark]

Unfortunately, I’m totally covered up with move stuff. The only upside to this move immediately is that I’ll be spitting distance from Virginia international Raceway.


Got home this morning after a week away and finally managed to get a door to close. Gaps are all over the place, but that can be dialed in later of course.



https://youtu.be/ma0xQI_CeFc

[FF33rod]

Watching the video I started to laugh. Can you imagine the average person looking at this video? their reaction - WTF, of course it closes. However, I can appreciate the amount of work that went into that!!!

Good luck with the move, glad it's not me - I did that just over 2 years ago after being in a place for 14 years, it was not fun sorting through all the crap....

Steve

[sethmark]

The average person knows better than spending this kind of money on a rocketship.

We move a lot. Part of my wife’s gig. The upside is good, but the downside is it’s a pain in the neck. Of course, I cracked the door at the latch which will need to be repaired, but otherwise it opens and closes. It’s amazing how much time is in that stupid door.

[LonDart]

Following this build convinced me, I need a 33...so I got one

[Michael101]

My original drivers door cracked at the latch as well as on the hinge flange side. Good luck with the move!

116111
116112

[peterh226]

Mine did the same thing and I have to twist the hell out of it to get even close (washers where the long beam attached to the rear mount). For any of the folks that complained and got a new door, did it help???

[sethmark]

It helped quite a bit. My drivers door is workable now.

I’m a whole lot closer than I was a couple of days ago. At least they’re hanging now.

[JimLev]

F5 had to send me a new drivers door too. I still needed washers to get the lower front to align with the body.
The top of the door doesn't evenly align to the top side of the body when closed, will need to do some grinding and glass work to fix it.

Seth, does the rear lower corner of your doors hit the body when they are closed? Both of mine do, not sure I can adjust for that.

[sethmark]

Not sure yet.... but it’s a challenge.

[sethmark]

It’s funny how driving the car makes up for the irritation with the doors. Get pissed, do a couple laps. All better.

[sethmark]

Fair warning to us newbies. Doors must be adjusted with the weight of the vehicle on the ground. Apparently adjusting them on the lift results in a non-adjusted door when you set the car down.

[DoBoy]

I'm glad I'm not the only one having issues with the drivers side door, as unfortunate as that is. Mine broke at the latch after twisting it into shape with washers. FFR sent me a new one, but the replacement wasn't much better. I ended up making a few relief cuts near the latch and glassing it back together while clamped to the body. I didn't like the washer idea either, so I ended up pre-twisting the metal frame to pull the door straight.

The adjustment concerns me as I started on the body first, did your gaps change with the weight on the ground?

[TxMike64]

Fair warning to us newbies. Doors must be adjusted with the weight of the vehicle on the ground. Apparently adjusting them on the lift results in a non-adjusted door when you set the car down.

That's a bit disconcerting... You would not expect this type of chassis to flex that much just setting it on the ground.

[sethmark]

I build dirt track race car chassis for a living. I wouldn’t say that the deflection was any worse than I anticipated. You should see a box tubing chassis from an OEM car without the body. They’re like limp noodles.

[Michael101]

I could use your opinion on the chassis flex issue Seth (or anyone that wants to chime in)

Now that I have the first coat of primer on my car my plan is to re-assemble the body then block sand it while also aligning the body-lines, gaps, etc. The thought would be that after I have all of the panels fitted, blocked, and gapped that I could effectively remove the body and paint it in pieces. I'm then planning to move on to the mechanical work and wouldn't re-install the body until I'm done with full powder coating and assembly of the chassis/mechanical part. Do you think that there is enough deflection potential within the chassis to cause issues with this plan?

Just thinking out loud, a loaded chassis on a lift would deflect in the front because of engine and front suspension weight. I'm trying to envision how that correlates to what I'm doing, non-loaded chassis body alignment without the chassis sitting on the four suspension points. I wonder if it may be better for me to revise my plan to do another mock up after I've finished the chassis/mechanical before final paint.

[FF33rod]

Would suggest waiting to do the final paint until all the mechanicals are done. As you make progress through the mechanicals you are going to want to make sure that there is no interference with various parts of the body which means you are going to be working with different pieces of the body and it would be a drag if you were to scratch or have to modify an already painted part.
JMO
Steve

[sethmark]

To be honest, I don’t know the answer to that question. Virtually all of the weight of the car is between the front and rear axles....I would expect the frame to show some deflection in the middle.....the 300 pound frame suddenly weighs 1500 pounds. I can’t tell you that the difference would be visible to the naked eye, but it was enough to make a door that opened and closed easily, sticky. It was easy to adjust out, but it had to be adjusted out.


Considering where you are in the process, I would seriously consider building the chassis and then cutting door gaps. I do not have the depth of experience with a GEN two car to know for sure.

[progmgr1]

Sorry for the thread hijack, but please answer a question from a bodywork novice: what gap are you shooting for at the door edge? Same gap around the trunk lid? Thanks, Keith

[AJT '33]

Sorry for the thread hijack, but please answer a question from a bodywork novice: what gap are you shooting for at the door edge? Same gap around the trunk lid? Thanks, Keith

I started with close to a 1/4" gap and once primed and painted I ended up close to 3/16" which is a relatively tight gap based on feedback and some industry experts, so i was happy with that.

[sethmark]

I finally have made enough progress on the doors that they open and close.... And latch. The trick seems to be to hang the door loose and get it to latch. Once it latches, you can shim it into place and tighten it all down. My gauge cluster should arrive today and that will allow me to finish up most of the wiring.

[sethmark]

Trunk lid was simple enough. A little adjustment to get it sitting flush and I’m done with it.

116601

[sethmark]

Hand sanded the parting seams today. That sucks.

[sethmark]

Fedexaclaus brought my gauges today.

.116610116611

[FF33rod]

Cool gauges, how deep is the main gauge? Wondering if you have to put it in the center or will be able to put it right in front of the driver.

Steve

[sethmark]

2.5" depth. They’re super shallow. And there’s no connection other than cat 5 on the gauge.

[sethmark]

My ocd is happy....

[sethmark]

Oh... and a little sneak.....

[sethmark]

OBDII Hookup is key...

[sethmark]

I’m happy. Got some ideas for pinstripe and paint too....

[sethmark]

https://youtu.be/BpLrQ-qeZ-8

[sethmark]

Details on the headlights. The park wire, which is tan from the chassis harness, is not utilized. The turn signal from the car powers both the daytime running light and the turn signal. They have to be paired going into the headlight. I’m not running DRL‘s.

Outback, make sure to not wire in the brake light Wire. Simply wire only the ground, turn, and dim. Wiring in the brake light wire back feeds.

[sread]

Hey Seth - are those the lights that come with the kit? I like the integrated signals.

[sethmark]

Hey Seth - are those the lights that come with the kit? I like the integrated signals.
Yessir.

[HVACMAN]

Details on the headlights. The park wire, which is tan from the chassis harness, is not utilized. The turn signal from the car powers both the daytime running light and the turn signal. They have to be paired going into the headlight. I’m not running DRL‘s.

Outback, make sure to not wire in the brake light Wire. Simply wire only the ground, turn, and dim. Wiring in the brake light wire back feeds.

I received the same lights with the Gen 1 and they were not in the manual. FFR sent me the digital Gen 2 manual and I elected to use the DRL's.

[sethmark]

Trunk latch is a pain. Doesn’t work well in any direction. I need to lengthen the striker pin and had to bend the hell out of the striker mount a good 10*.

Windshield is another fiddly bit to fit....

[FF33rod]

You're truckin' Seth!!! not sure how you find the time....

One thought on the windshield, since we want a nice fit with the cowl/dash and that area is likely to need filler, sanding, etc to finish it properly, I was thinking of getting the mounting sorted initially but not doing any "fitting" until most of the body work is done. Thoughts?

[sethmark]

You're truckin' Seth!!! not sure how you find the time....

One thought on the windshield, since we want a nice fit with the cowl/dash and that area is likely to need filler, sanding, etc to finish it properly, I was thinking of getting the mounting sorted initially but not doing any "fitting" until most of the body work is done. Thoughts?

My existence is atypical.... my wife has already relocated for her job, I don’t need to be working much during our transition and my kid is gone from 7:30 in the morning till three. So right now I have time to mess with the car. A good bit of it is also wheelhouse stuff for me. The mechanicals were things that I was intimately familiar with. It’s just what I know how to do.... Probably best not to ask me to do surgery, try a case in front of a jury or sell something.

I am not tightly fitting the windshield to the body. Just roughing it out close enough to be close enough. I intend on driving the car through most of 2020 before paint. With that said, I was not anticipating sucking up the fiberglass to the bottom of the windshield frame, but that’s clearly part of the fitting process. The windshield is not a lot of fun to work with. In fact, I found a fair amount of the car to be fiddley and less fun since the body went on.

[duff33]

It took me quite awhile to get the hard top to fit the body. Check out my posts on how much fiberglass work I had to do to get everything right

[sethmark]

I think the kid and I have the basics in place. The mechanicals seem to be solid. I’ve got about 40 miles on the car around the test track. Car needs an alignment better than a tape measure.

On to Body work and interior......

117175

[sethmark]

Couldn’t resist.

[sethmark]

This morning I got up really early and trailered the car to a private road in another country.



https://youtu.be/H9LmmWKcEfA

[FF33rod]

LOL, must have been the same country I took mine to! ;)

[sethmark]

Put this in the back of your head for electrical gremlins. If you powder coat the bracket that the alternator bolts to the motor with, make sure that you knock off the powder coat on the mounting bosses on both sides.


Alternator and engine sides. Otherwise it just drains your electrical system and doesn’t charge.

[sethmark]

LOL, must have been the same country I took mine to! ;)

might be.... they had gas....

[sethmark]

I totally poisoned the well driving the car yesterday. I want to do it again so bad I can't see straight.

[sethmark]

And that’s it folks. All forward progress stops until after the move. I feel pretty good about what the kid and I accomplished. Certainly if push came to shove I could drive the car to Virginia from here. That’s accomplishment in and of itself.

The good news is that the registering process in Virginia and the replica laws are excellent. I should be able to get a plate on it after the first of the year and enjoy driving it while I finish the body and interior.


On an unrelated note, my new shop is on the property of Virginia international raceway. I will be continuing to build late model mini dirt track chassis as well as offering DIY garage space and tools for privateer racers.

I think after I get this car a little further along I’m going to do an 818 for daily driving.

[FF33rod]

Good luck with the move buddy!

[sethmark]

Thanks Steve. This one has good potential upside, but it’s a big pain.

[sethmark]

Had to move the car to pack up that side of the garage. My foot slipped.


https://youtu.be/hSJDKvcG3p4

[GoDadGo]

Remember to watch your potassium levels because your leg could cramp causing you to floor the car and hamper your ability to lift and/or pedal.
For some reason this only happens on warm weather days and for me seems to only effect my right leg.
I think it has something to do with the way our circulatory systems work.

[sethmark]

Remember to watch your potassium levels because your leg could cramp causing you to floor the car and hamper your ability to lift and/or pedal.
For some reason this only happens on warm weather days and for me seems to only effect my right leg.
I think it has something to do with the way our circulatory systems work.

thank you for the suggestion. I’ll make sure to banana up before I drive again !:cool:

[JimLev]

I think there's an opening on RoadKill for you. Right foot antics are the way to go.

[cob427sc]

Just a simple question -- was this at the old house or were you just letting the neighbors know you've moved in?

[sethmark]

Just a simple question -- was this at the old house or were you just letting the neighbors know you've moved in?
Old house... lol.

[sethmark]

Humble beginnings. New shop at VIR

[peterh226]

Hey it’s a shop and at a race track. What’s not to love! I suggest LED lights. A huge difference in brightness.