Tim Wittaker's 33-Hot Rod dash panel

[Dodgeman]

Has any one used the dash panel from Tim? how did you cut the fiberglass dash and install the aluminum panel.
I just received mine. hate to begin cutting not knowing if I should remove the original dash or just cut windows to access the electrical etc.
Pictures if you have any and what fasteners did you use?

Thanks,
Bob

[wrp]

At a minimum I would trim out the gauge area so you can lay that open and access it from the front. I would make sure the electric panel was accessible too

[Kamp]

I'm going to cover mine with carbon fiber looking vinyl and use #8 socket head black screws to attach the panel to the fiberglass dash. I will use revnuts in the fbrglass. I have the openings cut in the fbrglass and sprayed machinist's bluing on the back of the panel, clamped the panel to the dash and scribed the openings. Aside from the AC outlet openings my instrument cluster and radio are rectangular so I used a oscillating saw to cut these openings in the fbrglass. That's as far as I have gotten!

[NAZ]

Kamp, suggest you consider using the rivnuts made for fiberglass and counter bore where the heads go so they are flush with or slightly below the surface then your bolt-on panel lays flush against the fiberglass dash.

https://www.mcmaster.com/97217A359

[Kamp]

I had planned on the countersink but didn't know about the fiberglass rivnuts thanks for the steer.

[HVACMAN]

I plan to do a carbon fiber wrap on mine with a rubber edging to bring it up off the fiberglass. I was afraid counter sinking the rivnut heads would make the fiberglass too thin. Is this not necessary?

[NAZ]

Do not "countersink" the holes for the rivnuts use a COUNTERBORE. This is not simply semantics, a counterbore is a different tool. You can find them at machinist supply shops or McMaster-Carr. The dash is thick enough to counterbore the thickness of the rivnut flange so you can set it below the surface. Use the style of rivnut made for plastics not the style that came in you kit. This makes a very clean installation and anything you mount will sit flush against the dash.

[AJT '33]

Do not "countersink" the holes for the rivnuts use a COUNTERBORE. This is not simply semantics, a counterbore is a different tool. You can find them at machinist supply shops or McMaster-Carr. The dash is thick enough to counterbore the thickness of the rivnut flange so you can set it below the surface. Use the style of rivnut made for plastics not the style that came in you kit. This makes a very clean installation and anything you mount will sit flush against the dash.

Agree with NAZ on the counterbore, dont countersink. As to the rivnuts, they are typically quite thin so even once installed, with the curve of the fiberglass, the dash panel will still sit a bit proud.

[HVACMAN]

Do not "countersink" the holes for the rivnuts use a COUNTERBORE. This is not simply semantics, a counterbore is a different tool. You can find them at machinist supply shops or McMaster-Carr. The dash is thick enough to counterbore the thickness of the rivnut flange so you can set it below the surface. Use the style of rivnut made for plastics not the style that came in you kit. This makes a very clean installation and anything you mount will sit flush against the dash.

Thanks Naz. I have the rivnuts already. I followed your suggestion earlier and used them on the trans. tunnel install.

[Tim Whittaker]

Happy to go over my panel attachment technique or how the panel is bent to anyone who cares to call.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs

[HVACMAN]

I will definitely give you a call when I get to that point.

[sethmark]

I’d like to see it!

[Tim Whittaker]

I’d like to see it!

You can see a picture of the panel mounted on: kootenaivalleycustoms build page.

Tim Whittaker