Jason's 33 HotRod #1142 - Kingwood Texas

[Michael101]

Hello Everyone! After months of planning, and planning, and planning....it's finally here! I think that I'm one of the lucky one's in that my kit arrived about a month ahead of what I'd planned. Kit was ordered March 29 and arrived yesterday, May 9th. I really can't say enough about how well the overall process of ordering and shipping went. Jim from Stuart Transport was a hoot and really made the delivery experience enjoyable.

To be honest, I feel like the dog that's been chasing cars...and now he's caught one...so now what :)

My plan is to tackle the body alignment and dirty work first then move on to the mechanical although my firewall being back-ordered may cause a re-work of those thoughts.

Build Highlights;
Removable Hardtop
Bike Fenders
AC of course - I live in Texas and it's damn hot
427ci Dart Windsor w/dual Holley EFI
TKO600
Monster Stage 2 Clutch
IRS with 2018 Mustang Aluminum Diff & 3.90 gear

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[TxMike64]

Awesome! Congrats man! And now the exciting, fun, frustrating, fun, frustrating, fun, blast, agony, fun, fulfilling roller coaster ride begins! :)

What part of Texas? Kinda looks like Houston area in the pics...

[Michael101]

Thanks Mike! Yep, I’m in Kingwood just NE of Houston.

[HVACMAN]

Welcome to the madness. Let the spending begin. lol I am about 90 miles East of you. I hope you avoided the flooding the last couple of days. It got pretty scary here early this morning. Enjoy the build. It's rewarding.

[Dodgeman]

Congratulations,

Welcome to the rewards and frustrations of building your own car.
I am located about 70 miles Northeast of you in Onalaska.
My 33' hot rod car is number 843, been building slowley since 2015.

Bob

[JOP33]

Congratulations! And if you are building it in a garage or shop in the middle of the Summer here in Texas you will have even a greater appreciation for the AC when done!

Good luck and enjoy!

[JimLev]

Congrats. Read all of the build threads if you haven't already.
I had a split air AC/heat installed in my garage and glad I did. You'll need it too.

[FF33rod]

Woohoo! Now the fun begins! I look forward to following your build
Steve

[Michael101]

My first major hurdle...I seem to be having a territorial dispute with my two year old grandson. It looks like he’s laid claim to the HotRod 😊
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[Michael101]

I was so distracted by the wonderful weather here yesterday that I ‘forgot’ to go to work and instead spent some time playing with the HotRod erector set. I’ve managed to get through inventory and found all but two interior pieces from what I can tell. I ran a few errands in my Chevelle then brought it bye to introduce it to the HotRod.
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From my understanding, the firewall servers as the base for setting the body in place is that correct? Or is there another way to get the body set that I haven’t found yet? Looking for an alternative if there is one so that I can move forward without my back ordered firewall piece.

[AJT '33]

Firewall is your first thing to get in place then set the body based on that.

[NAZ]

There are many dependent steps and having a firewall before fitting the body is one. It's good to have a build sequence plan but you'll learn to be flexible with that plan as you wait for parts, materials, and supplies. You'll be jumping back and forth working in areas that you can.

[peterh226]

Welcome to the Gen 2 family. Lots of exploration needed as there are quite a few improvements. They are catching up on the POL items. I’m taking it slow as I’m looking to get the body in primer before I even start much mechanical. Also getting stuff powder coated slows things down. Right now my firewall is out so things are slow. Read through the PDF as the new floor is a lot different.

[Michael101]

We’re on the same planned path Peter. I want the bodywork out of the way first, then I’ll powder coat the frame, then start mechanical assembly. I spent the day leveling the frame and marking the frame and body centerlines. I did a test fit with the hood and see I have some work cut out for me to get that aligned.

I have rev. 3A of the PDF that shows March 2019 so guessing it’s current? It still shows Gen. 1 body so I’m not sure.

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[peterh226]

I have the same manual. I found the chassis and the body line up very well. I focused on the Firewall first and used that to locate the body and trimmed the body a bit to clear the frame. I ended up not worry about about leveling the frame once I got the body locked in. The frame is rigid enough and it all seems to line up OK. I had to read to body mounting instructions a couple of times for the rear mount as the pictures don't show the spacer in place. Need to get my brackets back from powder coat so I can evaluate the front. Working a bit on the roof now. I went with the same laser!

[RBBJ 32 HOTROD]

That's awesome. My kit should be here in about 3 weeks. I'm also using Stewart transportation. I hope they can fit that truck down my street. Lol

[TxMike64]

What laser level are you using? I'm looking at a Bosch one, but considering how often I'll use it, I might just buy a cheap amazon one...

[Michael101]

SC-L07G Green Laser via Amazon for $36 Mike. Seems to work fine.

RBBJ, I live in a very tight area with lots of trees and in a cul-da-sac that’s only 80’ across. I was shocked at how easily the driver turned around, wasn’t even a thing for him.

[Dodgeman]

That's awesome. My kit should be here in about 3 weeks. I'm also using Stewart transportation. I hope they can fit that truck down my street. Lol

RBBJ,

I live in Onalaska, Tx on a narrow one way 20’ wide road Steve with Stewart had no trouble getting down it. Only problem was making a 130 degree turn at the end of road.

[Michael101]

Received some good news today from FF, looks like the balance of my POL is on the way via FedEx due Friday.

Also picked up my engine block from the machine shop today. I’d dropped it off five weeks ago and was told “couple of days at most”...man that’s been frustrating!
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Still working on shop logistics, I’m in a three car garage so it’s a bit of a challenge to store everything out of the way in order to have room to work. I got the idea for a body cart from someone on this forum, great idea and will be super helpful once I’ve finished the body fitting and move on to chassis prep. I have some items stored in the attic and with the wife being out of town I’ve managed to sneak some parts into the house upstairs...for now anyway ��
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[FF33rod]

A 3 car garage is challenging? I wish I had that problem ;) Great news on the POL!

P.S. your attachments above didn't work for some reason.

[Michael101]

Firewall along with most of my POL showed up last Friday so I was able to get it mocked up and set the body on. I haven’t done anything with the body accept set it in place but I’m already agreeing with Peters comment above that the Gen 2 body seems to be an easy fit. You can see from my frame and body centerline that’s it’s centered well without any manipulation. It’ll take a little trim work on each lower side as Peter suggested.
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I’m not understanding this gap from the foot box aluminum at the lower rear of each piece. The way it’s lined up there is nothing supporting the lower lip of each piece, do I have something messed up?
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[FF33rod]

I’m not understanding this gap from the foot box aluminum at the lower rear of each piece. The way it’s lined up there is nothing supporting the lower lip of each piece, do I have something messed up?


Nope, nothing messed up, it just hangs there and is eventually tied in with the floor aluminum (with rivets and RTV) and also the transmission tunnel (likely screwed). Because of this, you're going to find that the initial attachment of the gas pedal to that piece will cause flex as you approach WOT. Hopefully that flex goes away when it's tied in with the rest of the structure.

Steve

[Michael101]

Progressing through the bodywork. So far I have to say I’m relieved to find that the quality of the Gen II seems to be really nice. I had some struggles with the driver door but have a replacement on the way.
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Aside from the air conditioner that I added to my shop I’m thinking that this Deebot is likely the best tool I’ve added to the build, especially during the sanding phase. I don’t know about you guys but the dust drives me nuts!
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[sethmark]

Keep up the good work. I’m hot on your heels and appreciate any information you post.

[progmgr1]

OK, my ignorance is showing again...
What is a "Deebot" and where did you get it? I tried searching on Summit but no joy?
Keith

[sethmark]

OK, my ignorance is showing again...
What is a "Deebot" and where did you get it? I tried searching on Summit but no joy?
Keith
I’m pretty sure it’s his robot vacuum. Lol!

[JimLev]

And what are all of those projections on the top? To keep it from getting stuck under tool boxes and other low things?
My wife has a iRobot Roomba that I used in the garage once, it's low but can get stuck under things.

[peterh226]

Check out the striker mount bracket. Mine leaves a gap where it really needs to be flush against the door frame fiberglass.
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You Gen II guys seeing this?

[Michael101]

And what are all of those projections on the top? To keep it from getting stuck under tool boxes and other low things?
My wife has a iRobot Roomba that I used in the garage once, it's low but can get stuck under things.

Jim you’re right. I added fence post caps to the top hoping to stop it from getting stuck under some areas of my shop.

Keith...Check out Deebot on Amazon, they’re only a couple hundred buck and well worth it to me. I schedule mine to run at midnight every night.

[Michael101]

Same thing for me on the pass. side striker assembly. I added shim washers between the inner bracket and body.
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I also had to cut down the collar of the striker (poor boy style so it’s ugly, I plan to buy new ones and redo that for final assembly)

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[peterh226]

So your striker pin was a little long and hitting the door? I really don’t like washers for this critical a part. Seems like that area would crack after a while without some area to distribute the load.

[AJT '33]

Same thing for me on the pass. side striker assembly. I added shim washers between the inner bracket and body.
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I also had to cut down the collar of the striker (poor boy style so it’s ugly, I plan to buy new ones and redo that for final assembly)

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I spoke with Tony at FFR a whiles back on this and he suggested that I grind the hex portion round to match the bolt body (he said its not needed). This keeps the hole in the body small and you have more adjustability in and out. It worked great and will be painting the whole assembly. Unfortunately I had already opened up the hole to accommodate the hex head so I will be making a thin copper ring to cover the hole and add that finishing touch when the door is open. No pics of the final assembly as I am going to paint and all is disassembled.

[Michael101]

That's a good thought Peter, I may look at adding full size plates that match the inner bracket.

Yes, my striker pin hit the door on both driver and pass. side. Could be that I'm trying to keep the door too far forward but I had to remove quite a bit from each pin. I didn't look at cutting the fiberglass out of the way behind the latch, that might also be an option.

[sread]

Mine is a gen 1, but I had to bend the angle that mounts the striker bolt as well as cut the hex head off on mine also.

[peterh226]

Thanks AJT. I think that will solve both issues for us. I was waiting for tony to get back on this and the warped door. I got the feeling talking to FFR that the drivers door may be a common issue with Gen 2.

[Michael101]

My drivers door seemed to be over trimmed or mis-trimmed at least. Without removing any material from the back vertical edge I still ended up with a large gap on the inner trim to dash fit.
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Also ended up with a cracked hinge area when I tightened the inner door framing

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And the latch area broke as well...
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I have a replacement door on the way.

Passenger side figment was much easier and the inner molding lines up nicely...
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[Michael101]

I’m enjoying the bodywork but at times I need a break, so I started engine assembly. I got the block prepped and painted using the POR system. Scat stroker crank cleared everything in the block with no issues and the main journal clearance checked out at .0015 as advertised.

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Piston & Rod assembly went by with no issues and rod bearing clearance hit the mark at .0015 as well.

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Deck clearance is at .0085 on #1 and .009 on #4 which is near what I’d planned. Using .027 Cometec head gaskets will get me right at 10.5:1 compression.

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Lunati cam an timing chain went in next...and then I ran out of beer 😡 so I stopped. Poor planning!

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[Michael101]

Question for the team. I’m curious to know if my engine side panel/nose cone alignment is consistent with what you guys have done. It’s hard to see in these photos but I’ve run a yellow string along the door body mounding out to the grille. If you zoom in you can see that the side panel/nose cone has a rear to front rise. I have the radiator assembly set up on the top upper control arm bolt per the manual. I also have the radiator tilting about as far forward as it will go.

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[sethmark]

I love that you’re running at the problem the opposite direction from me. Hopefully I can learn from your body work and you can learn from my assembly.

[AJT '33]

Question for the team. I’m curious to know if my engine side panel/nose cone alignment is consistent with what you guys have done. It’s hard to see in these photos but I’ve run a yellow string along the door body mounding out to the grille. If you zoom in you can see that the side panel/nose cone has a rear to front rise. I have the radiator assembly set up on the top upper control arm bolt per the manual. I also have the radiator tilting about as far forward as it will go.

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Don't set your side panels until the hood and under grill lip are fitted and aligned. Once that is done then work on the side panels. I see you have the Gen 2 version so I would expect the alignment to the Hood will be better. In the Gen 1 version, based on how much rake you put on the front grill, you may need to trim the side panels. I placed as much rake as possible on it and needed to cut a slice out of the side panels. Get the grill in and work your hood, then work the sides. Work to what you like best and then adjust from there.
You can see what I had encountered in my build thread (Black & Copper) but here are a couple pics of the side panel modification I ended up doing due to the pronounced angle of the grill.
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[duff33]

I also had to take a pie shape wedge out of the side covers after I set the grill and hood. Must be a common issue.

[Michael101]

OK that's making me feel a bit better...Thanks guys.

I had initially done as AJT suggest, set the grille at the angle that I want then fitted the hood. But when I moved to the nose cone it wasn't even close to being aligned with the grille, it's way short. I'll set it back up that way and add photos for future builders since the manual is a bit of a 'no man's land' when it comes to side panels and nose cone.

[FF33rod]

The body fitment isn't covered at all at the build school either which is too bad because in the end it seems it is the most difficult part.

[Michael101]

“I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.”
― Thomas A. Edison

So following what I thought was the process according to the manual...

Step 1: Fit the hood to the grille and firewall. That’s what I did first but it turns out I should have started with the nose cone pieces. I read that fact somewhere and should have paid attention. What I did was fit my hood with the grille leaned as far back as possible, read that somewhere also and it sounded cool so I did it. Seems that adding length to the front of the nose cone pieces would be an easy task but in reality it would really throw the relationship between nose cone and suspension parts way out of whack. So since I fit the hood with the grille laid back but have now figured out that this might not be the way, looks like I’ll be doing some hood addition this weekend to correct my gaps .
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Step 2: Fit the nose cone. The manual provides no usable content for this part of the work. Some of the photos are still Gen. 1, they should have just left this part out and indicated that it was being modified. On top of that, the two halves are not cut to the same length on the front, not off by much but still, WHY? So I’ll end up adding to both sides and making the tie between the two parts. Don’t get me wrong, it’s nothing major and not a show stopper...but again, WHY?
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Step 3: Install side panels. Man these are really nice pieces...THAT DON’T FIT! Likely the only left/right pieces that actually match and I’ll be hacking them up to make them fit...ugh

Again, I know this isn’t anything compared to what the Gen. 1 folks have faced so I hate to b!tch. But man this is $10k and it’s just shoddy work. I have a replacement door on the way because it was basically trimmed wrong. The nose cone pieces aren’t cut the same. Side panels don’t fit...I can tell you that my a$$ would be unemployed if I produced product like this at work.

Where’s my beer assistant! ��

[RBBJ 32 HOTROD]

Anyone with the gen2 hotrod with the 32 deluxe nose get the vented engine side covers? I was told just the prototype car got them, they never made production.

[RBBJ 32 HOTROD]

My driver ended up using a parking lot up the street, we put the kit and boxes on my brother in laws flatbed and hauled it to the house. Worked well.

[Michael101]

I saw a laughable post on FB today with someone stating that the average FF builder spends about 250 hours to complete one of these cars. I mean, I know I’m not quite as energetic as I was in my younger years but I’m thinking I’ll be at this for a few more than that 250 mark. Hell, I’ve probably spent more than 10% of that time just staring at the car trying to figure out what I’ll do next!

Made a decision on my hood/grille angle/nose cone situation finally. It was a weird puzzle because basically none of the parts fit together as they are. The nose cone leads to one grille angle, if you choose to fit the hood first that’s a different grille angle, and side panels fit neither scenario. Regardless of the path I’ll be doing quite a bit of glass work to get the front body parts installed.

With my setup I’m extending the glass of the nose cone and side panel pieces, plus I’ll be cutting the side panels in half horizontally and bonding them back together ( not there yet).

My hood is rough fitted with the firewall and grille where I want it but did a quick check with the hood hinge and see I’ve got another challenge on my ‘to-do’ list
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I’m working to get the nose cone in place and extended. Interesting thing here, there doesn’t appear to be any mid-point attachment of the sides to the frame. Seems like this would be flimsy with only a rear and front grille attachment points especially considering that the side panel weight basically rest on these pieces. I made some mid point attachments although I’m not sure this is what I’ll end up with ultimately.
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Also decided that I needed a better frame cart with bigger wheels so that I can roll this thing outside on sunny days to let the fiberglass cure. Didn’t realize that this needed to happen but learned it here on the forum so thanks guys.
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I’m guessing that ‘250 hour’ build statement doesn’t include all of the ‘other’ things required. Let’s see, with my 25 plus hours of dumbfounded looking at it, another 10 or so counting parts, 10 building a ‘body parts’ and ‘body’ cart , about 20 trying to get the messed up driver door to fit plus another 10 at least with the replacement drive door, then there’s the 30+ working on the front bodywork...man I’m staged to set a new record!

Joking aside, I’m lovin’ every minute of it though. I didn’t want or expect a standard bolt together piece that would look just like every other 33 out there.

[peterh226]

So with the Gen 2, there are two mounting holes for the suspension but I think the radiator should use the upper mount and the hot rod suspension use the lower mounts to get a bit more ride height with fenders. Any thoughts?
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[sethmark]

Could I ask a favor and get a couple of pics of how the radiator mounts to the frame?

[peterh226]

Here’s some better pics. Any comments welcome as to whether this looks right.
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I put a spacer bolt as a temporary way to raise the rad up a bit. Then a piece of foam to space and protect it from the frame.

[sethmark]

Thank you. Only 2 points of contact with frame?

My POL indicates I’m missing some mounting brackets....

[peterh226]

Yeah, I was scratching my head a bit on the mounting as well. Couldn't remember from the Build School what the mounting looked like. The nose cone will help keep it forward I guess.
I was wondering if I used the top upper control arm holes and the bottom lower control arm hole if that would be a good solution.
Are you running A/C? The extra brackets and spacers are entertaining to install.
What bracket Part Number are you missing? I don't have my hood hinges yet.

[sethmark]

Yeah, I was scratching my head a bit on the mounting as well. Couldn't remember from the Build School what the mounting looked like. The nose cone will help keep it forward I guess.
I was wondering if I used the top upper control arm holes and the bottom lower control arm hole if that would be a good solution.
Are you running A/C? The extra brackets and spacers are entertaining to install.
What bracket Part Number are you missing? I don't have my hood hinges yet.

Im missing 34777. I have the 32 deluxe grill and it seems evident that the radiator is different, the mounting is different and I can’t figure out how.

[Michael101]

Yeah, I was scratching my head a bit on the mounting as well. Couldn't remember from the Build School what the mounting looked like. The nose cone will help keep it forward I guess.
I was wondering if I used the top upper control arm holes and the bottom lower control arm hole if that would be a good solution.

Hey Peter. I’m going off of what I found on page 36 of the manual where it indicates using the upper mounting locations. My pics show the grille angled back quite a bit but this is my final mounting location.

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[Michael101]

I’m not a bodywork expert by any definition and I’m undoubtedly taking more time than someone with experience would. I am stubborn and determined though!

I have my nosecone about 90% complete, took me a loooong time to land on a plan, then even longer to do what I needed. I ended up extending the front of the nose cone quite a bit using multiple layers of fiber and resin. It’s still rough but I’ll have it knocked out soon.
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I just couldn’t get comfortable with the idea of only attaching the nosecone at the grille up front and then at the body in the rear. To start with, the grille/radiator mounting isn’t all that rigid. It’s rigid enough sitting still but with road vibrations and the pot holes in my area I just think it’s bound to move around a bit. It looks like the Gen 1 had a mounting point on one of the lower control arm tabs. I went with that idea and fabricated a couple of plates, feeling much better about the rigidity of the nosecone side panels now.
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Needing a break from the saga, I took a little time to do some engine work. It’s slowly coming together.
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Also took some time to give the Chevelle a bath.
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Back to bodywork..
With the side panels being nowhere close to fitting (Thanks FF!) I decided to start with cutting a 3” strip from the top of each panel. After truing the bottom lip of the hood and setting it in place I was able to test fit the 3” slat and get it mounted.
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[Michael101]

There’s a lot of interference with the rear sides of the hood and the attachment point of the side panels. Button head screws are a no-go so I did some counter sink treatment and installed machine screws. Even with that and relieving the inside of the hood the interference is substantial. I’m not sure what my plan is yet to get this sorted out.
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I know that I don’t want complete coverage of the sides but wasn’t sure where this was headed. I’m liking how this is shaping up so far though. Seeing the upper side panel pieces in place has given me an idea of how I want the front end to look. I’m going to experiment with only adding enough of the side panel forward section so as to cover up the radiator area.
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[FF33rod]

Jason, if you haven't already, I'd talked talk to FFR about that interference. This part of Gen 2 seems half baked....

[Michael101]

Originally I’d thought that I might want to go with the side panels as delivered-fully enclosed, but maybe remove them from time to time for a different look. But now I’ve decided to make some mods to the panels that would give me the open look around the engine while hiding the congestion around the radiator and front suspension.

I started by cutting the panels horizontally as I needed to fit my radiator / hood alignment anyway.
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I made several cardboard templates to find a design that looked right for me, the made the arc cut in the lower half of each panel followed by bonding the top and bottom together using glass matte and resin.
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I wanted the arc to look like it belonged there so I recycled the lip from the back half of the side panels and bonded that to the trailing edge. I still have a lot of finish work to do but I’m happy with where I’m headed.
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[AJT '33]

There’s a lot of interference with the rear sides of the hood and the attachment point of the side panels. Button head screws are a no-go so I did some counter sink treatment and installed machine screws. Even with that and relieving the inside of the hood the interference is substantial. I’m not sure what my plan is yet to get this sorted out.
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I actually did not use that lip to attach my side panel in the end, since my theme allowed me to have exposed fasteners that look like rivets I opted to simply add two fasteners through the panel when installed. If they are not there, the button head fasteners are still installed like a rivet
110871 You can just see them in the picture, just two of them.

Your doing the body setup the RIGHT WAY, which will pay dividends later. I would set it up as you have if or when I do another one! KEEP IT UP!!

[Michael101]

You know what, I’ve been eyeballing that area and thinking that I want to do it differently. Thanks for the idea AJT.

[Michael101]

Man I’m really looking forward to getting past my front body work. My wife is asking what in the world I’v been working on, “looks just like it did a month ago” she says, thanks for the ego check woman!

I’m basically done with the nose cone and side panels, gaps are mostly where I want and I’m happy with the way they’re bolted in place.
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Looking for help/ideas for hood latching. The Gen 2 comes with a single cable operated bear claw that mounts in the upper center of the firewall. I’m hoping to keep the firewall area as clean as possible so this setup isn’t going to work for me. Looks like a big metallic zit and would look more obtrusive with the cable routed to it. I’m looking for alternate options that would latch on the driver and passenger side in the area that I have circled below. Another reason for my wanting to do dual side latches is that I think it’ll be easier to get the rear corners of the hood to line up with the body. As it is now, my pass side tends to pop up while the driver side is too low. The central latch configuration doesn’t offer any help with this situation.
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[FF33rod]

Front end is looking great Jason!

[peterh226]

I am thinking of designing and printing a cover for this. There is a lot of stuff that needs to go on the firewall anyway. Reservoirs, A/C, fuel pressure, etc. I think I can make something that will be a nice cover and fit in with the other stuff. My latch and hinge was POL but should arrive this week. Once I come up with something, it will be easy to provide to anyone that wants one.

[Michael101]

I am thinking of designing and printing a cover for this. There is a lot of stuff that needs to go on the firewall anyway. Reservoirs, A/C, fuel pressure, etc. I think I can make something that will be a nice cover and fit in with the other stuff. My latch and hinge was POL but should arrive this week. Once I come up with something, it will be easy to provide to anyone that wants one.

Definitely looking for ideas Peter, Thanks!

[TxMike64]

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Wow that is bad.... I don't think the manifold on my 4.6 will clear the bearclaw! What if you used something like a QuickLatch or AeroLatch - one on each side. (sorry on my phone, not posting pics/links right now)

[Michael101]

I feel like I’ve almost reach a milestone! Heavy on the ‘almost’ though. At this point I have all of the body panels fitted and gapped plus 90% sanded/scuffed in preparation for the first coat of House of Kolor KD3000 Surfacer/Sealer.
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I’m in the process of taking everything apart AGAIN 😳 so that I can get every surface covered inside and out. Then it’s put it all back together AGAIN to get final alignment bodywork done. Man I’ve this thing together and apart more times than I can count, thank goodness it’s all light weight and easy to get too!

I’m curious as to what you guys think should happen with the top of the doors. I’m thinking that I need to fill in this offset? I really have trouble understanding why it’s there in the first place.
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[AJT '33]

I feel like I’ve almost reach a milestone! Heavy on the ‘almost’ though. At this point I have all of the body panels fitted and gapped plus 90% sanded/scuffed in preparation for the first coat of House of Kolor KD3000 Surfacer/Sealer.
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I’m in the process of taking everything apart AGAIN 😳 so that I can get every surface covered inside and out. Then it’s put it all back together AGAIN to get final alignment bodywork done. Man I’ve this thing together and apart more times than I can count, thank goodness it’s all light weight and easy to get too!

I’m curious as to what you guys think should happen with the top of the doors. I’m thinking that I need to fill in this offset? I really have trouble understanding why it’s there in the first place.
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I used the HOK paint system as well and used the SP1600 Polyester Primer before the KD3000 on a recommendation by HOK, boy I am glad I did. I would HIGHLY recommend that once you are confident you are pretty close to having your panels faired properly, apply the SP1600 and then sand down again with a longboard block sander. I guarantee that you will find all kinds of high and low areas. When I first laid down the SP1600 I thought it would be a quick sand and then apply the KD3000, what a surprise, I ended up applying a second coat of SP1600, got the panels smooth and got all those micro pinholes out that re-appeared after I broke though the SP1600. I would make 100% sure that you have an even coat of SP1600 without breakthroughs before you go to the KD3000, I guarantee it will save you tons of sanding and touch ups due to micro pits and pinholes that are inherent in the fiberglass body that you don't see. My build blog shows the progress this too, here is what the body looked like after the first sanding.
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114469Just After
We ended up removing virtually 80% of the first coats of primer, when we did the second coat the sanding was easier and then after the application of the KD3000, the sanding was to even out the surface to remove as much of the sand marks as possible. Just an FYI.

[Michael101]

Thanks Andreas. I think I’ll take that advise! Would you happen to remember what sandpaper grit you used at each stage?

[AJT '33]

Thanks Andreas. I think I’ll take that advise! Would you happen to remember what sandpaper grit you used at each stage?

- For the Gelcoat/fillers, sand to an even 180 grit (dry) finish then apply the three coats of SP1600 (Follow the technical instructions from HOK)

- For the SP1600, for the first sanding, sand with 180-220 grit using dry paper overall

- For the 2nd SP1600 coat, once cured, sand with 320 grit dry paper then you should be good for the KD3000 (try not burning through the SP1600 if at all possible, not an issue if you do however, the KD3000 will seal it up). This is the best opportunity to fix any blemishes and any leftover pinholes.

- For the KD3000 coat, once sprayed (you will be doing three coats, again follow the HOK technical instructions) and cured, sand with 400 to 600 grit wet max (I used 600 wet), don't sand any finer or you risk not getting the adhesion that you need for the base coat (some say you can do 800 but the pro's don't go more than 600). If you burn through the KD3000, you should do spot touch ups and do a recoat of the part then resand. Again, even coverage is important for when you apply the base coat next. You must have an even layer of KD3000 applied without any burn through to the SP1600

- Once you have the KD3000 evenly applied and sanded, your ready for the base coat of color. When your at this stage you need to remember that you need to apply the clear within 24 hours after applying the base coat, any longer and your sanding and re-applying the base coat, then applying the clear. I applied 3 coats of the black base coat as my final color is black (use a tack cloth between the layers to keep any dust or particles from the color coat, do this when the base coat is properly dry at each stage). It's important to apply a base close to your final color, this ensures the greatest depth of color. There is NO sanding of the color basecoat! (as before always follow the technical instructions from HOK for mixing and coat drying durations)

- Once the base coat is applied and has dried to the proper level, your ready to apply the clear right after, I used the ShowKlear and applied three coats. Make sure that you have the cleanest booth possible to alleviate any dust or particles getting on the surface. We "lightly" wiped with a good quality tack cloth between each coat of the base coat. You don't use any tack cloths when applying the clears. I sanded my clear after, however if I do it again I would do a base sand to 1500 and then apply a flow coat, this would save time later.

If I could recommend you use Norton dry sandpaper (its blue in color), I tried using other brands and the ONLY one that sanded consistently and did not clog up was that from Norton. I used their "dry ice" brand, it is more expensive than all the other sandpapers, however, I actually ended up using less paper and the level of finish and the evenness of the surface when sanding was far superior. If you use the stuff from the local hardware store you will be cursing the paper and the surface your sanding (I found that out right away with the first sanding)

Have fun and do your research on the HOK technical docs site and you'll be fine. I went to the Nth degree and wet sanded my ShowKlear with 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 5000 and we are polishing it right now. A lot of people say no more than 3000, I agree, however I decided to go that extra step, not everyone will do that. here is a picture of the dash polished, not finished, so you can see the potential, the reflection is the wall about 20ft beyond.
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[Michael101]

So two weeks ago I 'thought' that I was 90% ready to start shooting primer but ….

Heeding the excellent advice given by AJT I decided to add HOK SP1600 primer to my routine. My original plan was to only use the HOK KD3000 as it's advertised to be 'Direct to Substrate' and useable as sealer or heavy build primer. I though maybe the KD was the upgrade to SP1600 but that's not the case. I ended up calling HOK to get a better idea as to how and when I should use the SP and KD products. As a side note, the HOK customer service seems to be excellent. I've called several times over the last few weeks and seem to get a different person each time but they are all extremely knowledgeable of their products and the painting process overall. I actually called one time and didn't get through to anyone, no answer and I didn't leave a message figuring I'd try again at another time. Less than five minutes later my phone rang with a number that I didn't recognize, turned out to be one of the HOK techs calling me back.

Following the HOK guys advice I went back after the body a bit more aggressively than I had originally planned. My first go was with 220 grit and more or less aimed at sufficiently scuffing the gel coat in preparation for primer. HOK guy suggested that I get after it a little more and try to block out as much of the waviness as I can ahead of starting with the primer so that's what I've been doing the last two weeks. Thankfully, again from reading AJT's recommendations, I had already purchased some of the Norton Dry Ice in 180 grit and holy cow he's right, that stuff is fantastic! What a time saver...thanks AJT! The Norton product cuts much faster than the Dura-Gold product and hardly clogs at all. I've since ordered the other Norton grits that I'll need as I move forward.

Something else that I've been meaning to add as useful info for those that will be tackling their own bodywork. Make sure to do a very thorough investigation of every body seam. You'll notice opaque areas along the seams after you've sanded the area flat. I first started with a small wire brush and pic but could see right away that this area needed a far more aggressive approach. So I ended up going at the seams with my Dremel and a small carbide tip. It was shocking to see how many of those areas that I thought were solid from using the pic and brush simply popped right off with a touch of the Dremel. I found some nasty craters, especially on the lower post of my hard top. Better to find this stuff now and fix it than have one pop after paint.

Another step change that may be useful, or maybe it's a no-brainer and it just took me a while to figure out. I now have my shop vac turned on and next to me while I'm sanding and use it to pick up as much dust as possible. I'd started out just blowing off everything with an air hose but man what a mess that ends up making. I have dust EVERYWHERE in my garage and it drives me nuts!
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The cheesy tail lights that FF sent with the kit have been bugging me since I first saw them. I know that I want to go a different route but I'm not sure what it will be yet. I went ahead and got rid of the tail light buckets though.
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The firewall-to-body seam is taking me a while to straighten out. On the top center I had almost a 1/8" dip when putting a straight edge from front to back. I also had to rebuild the body molding line (half round) on the pass side to adjust it upwards about 1/4".
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[AJT '33]

Glad to hear that things are working out, the effort you put in now will pay off later when it comes to the finishing work!!!

Taking note of your dust problem, what I did is place two 24" square floor fans on opposite sides of my shop (up off the floor) and placed a cheap furnace filter in front of them where they draw the air, and let them run on medium while I worked and left them on low after. They circulate the air in the shop and pick up a ton of dust, they don't get all of it but it substantially reduces the amount in the shop. Just a suggestion and an inexpensive way to create an air filtration system.
115299 You can see one of mine in the middle of this picture at the top, above the hard top, I hung it off a clothes hanger from the garage door rails.
115300 I did a lot of work on the top of where the firewall is as well, I would suggest that you get your hood on (if your using one) so you can get that fired to it as well.

Again... HAVE FUN SANDING!!!! ;):rolleyes:

PS. I know its harder to do, but STAY AWAY from those orbital or DA sanders!!!

[Michael101]

"PS. I know its harder to do, but STAY AWAY from those orbital or DA sanders!!! " … You're right about that AJT, tempting sometimes to grab the DA but this is all hand blocking. At least I can stop feeling bad about skipping the gym, plenty of exercise to be had with sandpaper in hand!

I'm hoping to figure out a good looking flush mount exterior door handle set up. I think a C5 handle would look good but I'm not sure if there is enough clearance on the inside once the window is installed. Thinking I'll do the window install after I get the first round of primer done and then figure out if this handle set-up will work.
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I'm also experimenting with the tail lights and kinda like the '70 Mavrick/Pinto setup. Whatever I end up with I'll likely be using Digi-tails LED lights because they are very bright and very noticeable.
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Earlier in my thread I'd mentioned that I had alignment issues with the FF hood hinge setup. I ended up making these wedges to get proper alignment, so far they're working well.
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[AJT '33]

I would suggest that once the final sanding (just before final rimers and then to paint) with all the parts on the car and you are happy with all the alignments, AND before you disassemble any of the critical components that are reliant on alignments with each other or the body, such as the hood, trunk, door latch, door strike, plates to the grill to name a few. I would suggest you add at least a pair of alignment pins (I used simple 1/8" spring pins) to each of the parts that I wanted in exactly the same place. As an example, on the hood I added spring pins to the plates that were bolted to the fiberglass. I drilled them randomly on the pate such that I could not place a left plate on the right side. This ensured that the car goes right back together with the same alignment and gaps as it was in when I set it up. Just a suggestion, here are a couple of pics of what I had done as an example.
115679 Bracket that was on the hood
115680 Front latch bracket of the hood
115681 Hood to firewall pin and plate (note: I did not take the pin off before I painted the plate and pin to maintain the alignment)

Any bracket that had pins or bolts in them I did not remove to maintain the alignment as noted above, that included the strike pin for the door.

Have fun!!
Andreas

[Michael101]

That makes a ton of sense AJT. I'd thought about doing that on the door hinge assembly but dismissed it just before this recent disassembly because of laziness. Hadn't thought about it on those brackets but I am now. I think I'll make sure to do it like you're suggesting to hopefully help with final alignment and save me from scratching paint...and throwing a fit.

[sethmark]

How on earth did you get your doors to look So good? Gaps and panel blend is excellent. What was the trick to aligning all the brackets inside?

[Michael101]

How on earth did you get your doors to look So good? Gaps and panel blend is excellent. What was the trick to aligning all the brackets inside?

I spent more hours than I can count messing with the doors. I bet I had them on and off 20+ times for each side. The hinge assembly is extremely adjustable, which is great, but man it’s hard to nail down the final install. I’m looking to come up with a better way to hold the hinge arm in place on the door frame. You’ll find that regardless of how tight you get the bolts, it’s still likely to wiggle around a bit. I’ll probably do as AJT suggest and pin those areas.

Things get a bit easier once you establish the striker bolt location.

[Michael101]

I took advantage of fantastic weather conditions today and shot primer on some of the car. My new Fuji sprayer did well with the SP1600. It also produced very little overspray.
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FACT CHECK: House of Kolor claims that the SP1600 provides excellent adhesion.
FACT CHECK STATUS: Verified! I had my spray area covered in visqueen so no issues there. But the area where I did my mixing wasn’t covered. Tracking the spray residue into the mixing area resulted in my needing to pry my dang shoe loose from the floor. Ended up pulling up the shop floor epoxy! Excellent adhesion for sure!
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[McGuyver]

I have been following your build, I am just down the road in Houston and planning to start a ‘35 truck build in 2020.
Looks great! Did you have to upsize the air cap in the new spray rig to handle the SP 1600?

[Michael101]

Thanks McGuyver!

I used a 1.8 tip for the SP1600. That stuff is super think like liquid body filler. It shot ‘ok’, a couple of areas could have come out smoother.

[Michael101]

Holy cow I am tired of sanding! I have noticed though that when sanding the SP1600 it gives off a nice smelling odor, I think they've done this by design to make the task less aggravating. I'm slowly getting the panels block sanded, re-installed, and working out the final gaps and alignment. I still have to address the hood fitment issue on the driver side, I plan to try heat treatment this weekend to see if I can get it worked out.

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[sethmark]

Looks great. I’m jealous of your skill there. I suppose I’m going to need to learn this winter.

[JOP33]

Nice use of the plastic underneath to catch the dust :)!

[Michael101]

Yes Sethmark, I am truly skilled...at craftily taking photos so that you can't see the flaws ;)

And Jop… that plastic is the floor to my 'hi-tech' paint booth :D


So I spoke with one of the HOK reps yesterday to get a little guidance on my next steps. I have to say again how impressed I am with their technical support. This is the second time that I've called but did not reach anyone and didn't leave a message thinking that I'd call back another time. Instead I received a callback within ten minutes from one of the guys asking if I needed help with anything...great company.

Good news is no more SP1600 for me. I'm not complaining, it's a great product and performs just as advertised, but it's a bit of a chore to sand. Once I'm done sanding the SP1600 coat and working some panel alignment issues I'll be moving on to the KD3000. One drawback that I hadn't worked into my plan though is that the KD3000 wont work at 65 degrees or below. May not be an issue here in Houston but I could potentially need to revise my plans if I'm not able to finish the bodywork as planned and get stuck sitting for a few months.

[AJT '33]

Yes Sethmark, I am truly skilled...at craftily taking photos so that you can't see the flaws ;)

And Jop… that plastic is the floor to my 'hi-tech' paint booth :D


So I spoke with one of the HOK reps yesterday to get a little guidance on my next steps. I have to say again how impressed I am with their technical support. This is the second time that I've called but did not reach anyone and didn't leave a message thinking that I'd call back another time. Instead I received a callback within ten minutes from one of the guys asking if I needed help with anything...great company.

Good news is no more SP1600 for me. I'm not complaining, it's a great product and performs just as advertised, but it's a bit of a chore to sand. Once I'm done sanding the SP1600 coat and working some panel alignment issues I'll be moving on to the KD3000. One drawback that I hadn't worked into my plan though is that the KD3000 wont work at 65 degrees or below. May not be an issue here in Houston but I could potentially need to revise my plans if I'm not able to finish the bodywork as planned and get stuck sitting for a few months.

I would suggest you look at their cold weather reducers and activators, they work very well, I needed them. I also heated up my shop hotter than normal and then shut it off before spraying such that the residual heat would be adequate to dry the primers. One extra piece of advice, if you blow through the KD3000 when sanding, then I would spray the extra coats so you alleviate any possible pinholes you won't see now. When doing this again, as much of a PIA the SP1600 is to sand, I will be applying an additional coat such that I have a consistent finish and it will ensure that its as smooth as possible.

Here's a couple of pics of my hood and side panel after buff, polish and application of CQuartz ceramic nano coating. Really happy with the outcome!!
118047 118048
PS. No comments on the bedding, it used to be my kid's room, now my grandkids room! :)

[Michael101]

Your ride is looking awesome AJT. You’re putting a ton of work into that paint and it sure is looking great. I definitely see your point about the pin holes, those damn things are everywhere. Any idea what causes that?

Made it through round two this past Monday. I sprayed two coats of the KD3000 mixed as a medium build primer. It was quite a bit easier to shoot than the thicker SP1600 for my 4-stage turbine set-up. Time to put it all back together for a final fit, this time with the weather stripping.

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[Michael101]

I made good progress over this past week. Body is back together except for the rear fenders which I’ll get to this week some time. Doors are back on and aligned, probably my fifth or sixth time to install and align them and it’s still a total PITA. I’m planning to pin all of the hinge hardware before taking it apart this time in hopes that it’ll help with re-assembly later on.
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My replacement driver door cracked at the bear claw just like the original. I have to think now that it’s either a mold misalignment issue or my steel door structure is off. I’m definitely not going to start over with a new door so I’ll need to figure out a patch that looks presentable.
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Hard top went back on with no issues so it appears that leaving it in the sun strapped in place earlier this year to get it aligned has paid off. With the doors aligned and the top in place I’m able to get the side window measurements. I’ll be making the cuts but debating if I need to do the full window install now as a test fit or just wait until final assembly.
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Next weekend I hope to get the body panel alignment close to completion. The hood is still fighting me a bit but with the use of a heat gun and strategically placed weight I’m zeroing in on it.
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[LonDart]

Per your photo, it looks like the door is hitting the striker.

[Michael101]

Per your photo, it looks like the door is hitting the striker.

Yes, it was, I've fixed that. Door strikers have been one of the oddities when fitting the doors along with the tendency of fiberglass to 'move around'. Every time that I've fitted, taken apart, and re-assembled there are tweaks required to get it back in-line. I had to modify both door strikers to make them fit and on the last round of dis-assembly/re-assembly they aligned just right. Some how on this round of re-assembly the pass side fit fine and the driver side didn't so I had to cut it down more. It likely has to do with the infinite adjustability of the door frame and hinge assembly.

[Michael101]

I’m getting close! Well, not close to being finished but close to another milestone.

Working on panel alignment over the past week. I suppose that all of the hours spent sanding, shaping, removing, installing, and repeating paid off for this latest round of fitment. I ended up with only a few areas that needed attention in order to get a smooth transition between panels. The hood of course is one, it’s been a PITA since the beginning. in original condition it was very low in the rear center and about 3/8” too high on the driver and passenger rear. It also had extreme contact on the passenger rear at the side where it overlaps the side panel. I’ve done quite a bit of heat gun work on it up to this point and had it close enough to where I only needed minor shaping and body filler to finish it off.
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Driver side door needed work on the front edge
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Passenger side needed help on the rear edge
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[Michael101]

I made a few changes with the door hinges as well. Using the door stops as shown in the manual didn’t allow the doors to open wide enough for me so I removed them and will likely weld in new stops later. I’ve adjusted the hinge slots on the body side and marked where I will add the new stops on the door hinge bracket. Much better with the new setup.
118621

Added bonus with removing the original door stops is that I can now remove the doors with the hinge arms in place. This makes a huge improvement on removing and replacing the doors.
118622

I’ve also drilled several alignment locations on the door hinge hardware hoping that it will help with alignment during final assembly. I have a total of six holes drilled per side in the hinge arms, hinge brackets, and side bars. My original plan was to drill and tap each of the holes for #10 screws but I quickly learned that this chassis steal is really hard stuff. So after breaking two #10 taps and a 1/4” I decided to abandon the tap idea. I now have 1/4” holes at each location without threads.
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[sethmark]

You’re doing one hell of a job. Nice work.

[cob427sc]

I modified the door stops by removing the allen head socket top, adding a piece of steel and offsetting the top, welding it all back together. Now with the offset you can adjust how far , within limits, you want the door to open. It does open considerably more than stock, provides room for my old crotchty body to get in and out and still plenty of room for body clearance. FFR could easily make a bolt with an eliptical head that would work.

[Dduty]

I modified the door stops by removing the allen head socket top, adding a piece of steel and offsetting the top, welding it all back together. Now with the offset you can adjust how far , within limits, you want the door to open. It does open considerably more than stock, provides room for my old crotchty body to get in and out and still plenty of room for body clearance. FFR could easily make a bolt with an eliptical head that would work.

This sounds like a good solution to the limited access.
Do you have a photo of it to post?
Thanks

[LonDart]

Michael, you body work is excellent, I am following this thread in hopes to learn something
Lon

[Michael101]

i really appreciate the compliments guys. I’m certainly not an expert but working through this has really improved my skills! Lessons that I would have rather not learned after spending this much money on the body kit, but I’m happy with the progress.

There are a few things that I feel could help others;

Patience is a must have. Thankfully now that I’m older I’ve mellowed out quit a bit. I could definitely see my younger self kicking the sh!t out of this fiberglass at several points and making it worse. Been there done that :rolleyes: On this project I’ve learned to not set specific goals but instead accept that I may end up working for days on a task that it seems should only take an hour (doors are a good example).

Put the power tools away. For initial fitting I used a DA and air file but since that point it’s been 99% manual. My primary tools are a long dura-block and a long soft sand block.

My initial plan was to scuff the gel coat in prep for the first round of primer. However, following advise from HOK I went really aggressive on the gel coat and knocked down a lot of the high spots prior to primer. I’m thinking that doing so likely saved from doing repeated primer rounds trying to build up around the high spots...don’t really know. I can say that after my first coat of SP1600 I’ve been working with mostly flat surfaces and not negotiating with high spots.

Dremel the heck out of every seam. Don’t skip any of the seam areas, if they look even slightly transparent or opaque dig them out and repair them. Take a look at this shot of the front lower section of my hard top. This started with my finding an opaque dot smaller than a pencil eraser. Turned out to be extremely flimsy beneath.
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Buy the Norton Dry Ice sandpaper like AJT recommends. Takes a while for it to arrive even using Amazon so think ahead.

Two is one and one is none. Buy more of everything. Sandpaper, primer, mixing cups, spreaders, bolts, nuts....etc. it’s really frustrating to have to shut down because you’ve run out of something cheap.

Fiberglass can be heated and re-shaped to some extent if you’re patient with it. I’ve had success with my hood and door edges using a heat gun, some weights, and straps.

Read everything on every thread here repeatedly. There’s a ton of practical knowledge here. During your build go back and re-read threads that you’re sure you’ve already seen. Nine times outa ten, depending on your build progress you’ll notice details that you’ve missed before. Things are more relevant when they’re relevant ;) I glance at my build manual rarely, but re-read post from AJT, SVT, FF, JOP and others constantly. When I finally get to the mechanical part I’ll be doing the same.

[sread]

lots of good advice here!

[Michael101]

I’m sure that this will come as a surprise to everyone, but test fitting my hard top windshield today was a complete no-go. Man I'm glad I did this test fit before paint! My current summary of the Gen 2 body as it comes from FF...’it’s made of fiberglass and none of it fits together’. OK I guess that’s a little harsh, my trunk lid and rear hard top glass fit well...but that’s all! Rant over.

Windshield glass didn’t fit into the opening at all. I’ve had to carve out a substantial amount of material all the way around the inset just to get it close. I’m to the point that removing any more material makes me nervous that I’ll end up with stress cracks later from vibrations or other mechanical stresses related to driving. Really wish I’d have just gone with the soft top but I like the look of the hard top, plus I have a lot of hours invested in this top so far. It’s hard to get a good photo that explains but to sum it up either the hard top opening is too small or the glass is too large. In retrospect test fitting the windshield should have been step #1 prior to any sanding or primer work.
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[JOP33]

Remember you have some butyl underneath that as well. Some of the same on mine, but not quite as bad as what you show.

Good luck!

[Michael101]

Not gonna lie, this step made me a bit nervous.

I knew early on that the supplied door handles just weren’t my thing, I’m looking for a smoother look. I ended up ordering a used Vette door handle off of EBay wanting to see if it fit my vision and also fit the Hot Rod door. Today I finally took the plunge, held my breath, and went for it.

First I mocked up the window glass and motor to verify available space inside the door
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Looked like there was room so I measured out a pattern on the door using the Vette handle gasket
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Then I took the plunge and made the cut
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I’m really happy with this. I’ll need to make a linkage rod to get to the door latch and figure out a way to get the lock to work but that shouldn’t be a problem. Notice I had to mount the handle in reverse to make the linkage work also. Good victory after fighting the windshield issue earlier today.

[Michael101]

Remember you have some butyl underneath that as well. Some of the same on mine, but not quite as bad as what you show.

Good luck!
Thanks JOP. I may stick some half round weather strip in there tomorrow to simulate that. Good reminder, thank you.

[progmgr1]

Those door handles look good. I'm going forward with no handles and using door poppers, but this is a good backup idea if Plan A falls apart (again). Keith

[cob427sc]

Sorry I didn't respond sooner about the door stops and I didn't take any pictures during assembly. Basically I made an ecentric or an off center circle on the end of the bolt which allows you to adjust the amount of opening of the door. I set it snug, opened the door to the point I wanted then tighten the bolt. Being 6'-2" and old joints, the extra width helps a lot getting in or out.

[Michael101]

The Gen 2 power window setup looks to be quite an improvement from before. I had to make a call to FF to help me understand the instructions since my manual still had Gen 1 info in it. But Tony steered me in the right direction and all turned out well.

Something important to note. In my manual it leads to cutting the window openings on the top of the door to somewhere near 3/4” but the Gen 2 opening requirement is much larger. I wasted quite a bit of time carefully trimming before Tony pointed out that I wasn’t even close to getting the cut opened up enough.

Another important point. I’d initially thought that I’d wait until final assembly to fully install the entire window assembly but thankfully decided to do the full install now and tear it down before pint. Getting the whole assembly completed isn’t all that difficult but you will need to remove and re-install the parts multiple times to complete it. I think that the odds are that I’d have slipped up at least once and damaged my paint if I’d waited. Also, getting the final window alignment requires trimming and drilling so again there would be risk to a finished surface.

Here’s the door cut out per the manual vs the final result
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Two things about removing and replacing the window motor assembly repeatedly. One, insert the screw that I show here first instead of the one shown in the manual. Trust me, after your first try you’ll understand. Two, the blunt threads of the screws along with the flat face of the motor mount threads are a big challenge especially since you’re working in a tight space. Find some 1/4”-20 tapered point bolts to use for mock up.
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Finished assembly looks great and seems very sturdy
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[FF33rod]

Looks great! the aluminnum finishing strips on the top of the door are new, finishes it off nicely.
Steve

[Michael101]

Last piece to the bodywork puzzle is done. Mounted the roadster windshield without any issues. Can anyone tell me if it’s safe to take this windshield frame apart? I’d like to have it powder coated but can’t tell for sure if it’s glued or just using rubber for the glass mount.
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Another issue resolved with help from Jim at FF concerning my hood hinge not fitting. After sending him pics of my temporary fix he sent me a test piece that ended up doing the trick. I had to re-drill mounting locations in my hood but it all worked out great. Another customer service win for the FF team.
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So after seven months of bodywork I'm now moving on towards the mechanical fun. I have my body parts set aside and will continue to work towards final paint but can now work the go cart as well. I’m thinking that a few weeks of prepping the metal parts and test fitting a few things should do and then it’s off to the powder coat guy.
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[JOP33]

Last piece to the bodywork puzzle is done. Mounted the roadster windshield without any issues. Can anyone tell me if it’s safe to take this windshield frame apart? I’d like to have it powder coated but can’t tell for sure if it’s glued or just using rubber for the glass mount.
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I had my frame apart for polishing with no issue. If you are going to powder or plate, make sure you tape off any mating surfaces so that the frame fits back easily without a lot of clean up.

[Bgardner]

The Gen 2 power window setup looks to be quite an improvement from before. I had to make a call to FF to help me understand the instructions since my manual still had Gen 1 info in it. But Tony steered me in the right direction and all turned out well.

Something important to note. In my manual it leads to cutting the window openings on the top of the door to somewhere near 3/4” but the Gen 2 opening requirement is much larger. I wasted quite a bit of time carefully trimming before Tony pointed out that I wasn’t even close to getting the cut opened up enough.

Another important point. I’d initially thought that I’d wait until final assembly to fully install the entire window assembly but thankfully decided to do the full install now and tear it down before pint. Getting the whole assembly completed isn’t all that difficult but you will need to remove and re-install the parts multiple times to complete it. I think that the odds are that I’d have slipped up at least once and damaged my paint if I’d waited. Also, getting the final window alignment requires trimming and drilling so again there would be risk to a finished surface.

Here’s the door cut out per the manual vs the final result
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Two things about removing and replacing the window motor assembly repeatedly. One, insert the screw that I show here first instead of the one shown in the manual. Trust me, after your first try you’ll understand. Two, the blunt threads of the screws along with the flat face of the motor mount threads are a big challenge especially since you’re working in a tight space. Find some 1/4”-20 tapered point bolts to use for mock up.
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Finished assembly looks great and seems very sturdy
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Michael

nice build you have going. Where did the aluminum strips for the door glass come from, is this a new item on the Gen 2 models?

Bob

[Michael101]

Michael

nice build you have going. Where did the aluminum strips for the door glass come from, is this a new item on the Gen 2 models?

Bob

Yes sir, it’s the Gen 2 set up.

[FF33rod]

Hmmm, I wonder if those bits work with the Gen1 doors and window pieces. I know that's what Bob is thinking....

[progmgr1]

For a Gen 1 build you might want to check out Tim Collins' build thread (tcollins). Tim built aluminum window support frames and shared his design drawings with anyone who asked. Really nice build and a really nice guy.
Keith

[Bgardner]

Thanks for the info, I will contact FFR and see if these pieces will work with the Gen 1 and if we can order them separate.

Correct that Tim Collins has a great build thread, I did check it out and requested to try and get some info on the job he did with the power windows.

[peterh226]

Remember the Gen 2 has a wider window sill on the door so may not be room.

[Michael101]

I’ve spent the last couple of weeks prepping metal and marking it for powder coating. I think that the hardest part has been to finally land on a color and stop flopping around about what direction I’m going but that’s finally over. It’s been a little weird for me, I usually know exactly what color combos I’m after before I even start on a build but not with this car. I think the issue is that regardless of the color, it’s still going to be a cool looking car so every color that I imagine would work.

The only thing that gave me a little trouble during prep was taking the steering column apart. But I eventually figured it out.
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Made the trip today to drop off the frame and parts for powder. While I live in Houston and have easy access to several reputable coating companies, I chose to make the 280 mile round trip to Louisiana so that a long time friend can do the work. I’ve known this guy for many years and trust him.

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[shmelty]

Love your build!! You are doing an amazing job! If you don't mind me asking... could you provide a ballpark figure on your powder coating costs? i have asked several shops but no responses yet.

[progmgr1]

Love your build!! You are doing an amazing job! If you don't mind me asking... could you provide a ballpark figure on your powder coating costs? i have asked several shops but no responses yet.

PC costs vary widely between vendors and locations. Out here in the People's Republic of Kalifornia the cost to coat a chassis is 4-8 times what it is in Louisiana, for example. Also, don't forget the cost of the prep work - some shops quote that separately. I suggest you take photos (or actual parts, if small) of what you want coated to several shops in your area and talk to the owner / manager. Finding someone you can work with is more important than absolute lowest price, IMHO. Keith

[Michael101]

Received pictures from my powder coating friend. Man I'm excited now!
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[sethmark]

Wow. That translucent red is gorgeous.

[tony]

Very pretty color!
with the springs, is there worry the powder coat will flake off from fatique?

[TxMike64]

Wow. That translucent red is gorgeous.

Agreed! WOW!

[Michael101]

Very pretty color!
with the springs, is there worry the powder coat will flake off from fatique?

I don't think so Tony but not sure. The springs that we get from QA1 or just about any others are powder coated too.

[FF33rod]

Love it. Now to protect it while you put everything around it!
Steve

[Michael101]

I was able to make the trip to Lake Charles last Friday to pick up my frame and parts. One thing that I hadn't considered before hand was storage of the powder coated parts and the amount of space that it would take. Wasn't an issue when the parts were all bare metal but I sure don't want to just pile them up now. I ended up clearing out some real estate in the attic of my garage to store some of the parts.
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[Michael101]

I have a used 8.8 IRS 3.55 ratio center that I'll be rebuilding and changing gear ratio. Looking to hear from the other 5 speed guys here on what ratio your running, but most importantly wondering if your happy with it or do you wish you'd gone with something different. Understanding that this choice is dependent on tire height and cam profile, to fit my combo I'm trying to decide between 3.73 and 3.91.

Another question for those that have installed new ring and pinion. Did you go with the Ford Performance (which is quite a bit less money) or something like Yukon or Eaton?

How about pinion yoke/flange, did you stick with the stock part or upgrade. In my case I have the stock automatic style flange. Would you upgrade?

Also, did you guys use the stock posi or upgrade to a locker or similar?

[sethmark]

The 3.55 ratio is fine for most driving assuming that you have enough torque and an appropriate size tire. I’m running a 26 1/2 in the rear and can go up to a 29 comfortably. Deeper is quicker...

Really, the only thing that matters is your final drive. I made the mistake of opting for the deeper overdrive, which puts me at about 1700 RPMs and 70. Little low. Basically a cruising speed I'm below the cam.

As for the gears, using Ford gears will certainly be better than a Yukon. I don’t know if it’s still the case but the Yukon gear used to be made in Indonesia. Finally, as far as I’m concerned, a posi is mandatory, but the locker would be hell on earth. The cars aren’t heavy enough to unlock a Detroit locker style case. A truetrac would be as aggressive as I would go....

[cob427sc]

Stay away from the Detroit locker unless you have had prior experience. They work great on the strip but around town can be quite a hand full. I built a roadster and a t-buket with Detroit lockers and though I was able to control the car without too much trouble, both cars were crashed by the new owners shortly after I sold them. Both cases were making a left hand 90 degree turn. Punched the throtle and rather than turning the car plowed straight across the intersection into objects on the other side of the street. Nobody hurt. I instructed both buyers before the sales, but as we all know, sometimes we forget.

[Michael101]

Moving at the speed of a drunken sloth lately but I am making a little progress. I have the front suspension set up using QA1’s and Tim’s bump steer kit (really nice looking stuff, glad I did that)
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True to form I decided to do the rear differential the hard way and build it myself. It’s not that hard to do but there are a few special tools required that I had to work around. I ended up building a jig that allowed me to use a readily available case spreader. I also had to buy an extra pinion bearing and machine it for use as a pinion set up bearing. All in all I ‘might’ have saved a few bucks but I just like doing things myself. Good news is that the Ford Performance parts are all very affordable. I ended up using new 3.73 gears and a new Track Lok.

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[sethmark]

Nice work. You’re on your way to a gorgeous car.

[HVACMAN]

Moving at the speed of a drunken sloth lately but I am making a little progress. I have the front suspension set up using QA1’s and Tim’s bump steer kit (really nice looking stuff, glad I did that)
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True to form I decided to do the rear differential the hard way and build it myself. It’s not that hard to do but there are a few special tools required that I had to work around. I ended up building a jig that allowed me to use a readily available case spreader. I also had to buy an extra pinion bearing and machine it for use as a pinion set up bearing. All in all I ‘might’ have saved a few bucks but I just like doing things myself. Good news is that the Ford Performance parts are all very affordable. I ended up using new 3.73 gears and a new Track Lok.

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Good job Michael. Your build looks amazing! We Texas guys like doing things ourselves. The only thing I haven't done by myself , is set the body on. A friend from work came over twice to help with that.

[Michael101]

Brake lines are done except for the reservoirs. I wish I’d thought to tackle the front lines before installing the front shocks, that was a bit tight.
I thought I had all of the parts together to finish the install but I ran across a post from Seth this morning showing his cute little braided lines going from the masters to the reservoirs....resulted in yet another Summit order and a bit of a delay...thanks Seth!
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[sethmark]

Ha! I’m here to spend your money! I will say that the brakes on the car are so good.....

[FF33rod]

....
I thought I had all of the parts together to finish the install but I ran across a post from Seth this morning showing his cute little braided lines going from the masters to the reservoirs....resulted in yet another Summit order and a bit of a delay...thanks Seth!

That will only happen another 200 times before the end of your build...

[Michael101]

Big day today!
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[shark92651]

I wish I had a build in the garage to work on, especially during this "social distancing" virus lockdown. Your hot rod is looking very cool - love the frame color! My roadster is at a shop now for paint and bodywork so I have nothing to work on or drive right now to fight the boredom. When I get it back, it will probably be too hot to drive it for awhile. I'm gonna follow this thread, I always thought the roadster with bike fenders would be what I would like to do next if I ever build another. Good luck and enjoy the build!

[AJT '33]

Love your adaptation of the wheel casters, very fancy and useful!!

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Looking great.
-Steve

[sethmark]

The all black shaved firewall is money! 3m panel bond?

[Michael101]

The all black shaved firewall is money! 3m panel bond?

I chickened out on the 100% panel bond idea Seth. I ended up counter sinking flat head screws instead and used fewer than normal with a silicone adhesive.

[sethmark]

Find it hard to believe that you chicken on anything. You do great work.

[Michael101]

Didn’t feel much like tackling anything major today so I added insulation to the firewall. This may be overkill but the older I get the less I appreciate baking in the south Texas heat. What I have is one layer of Design Engineering Floor and Tunnel Shield plus two layers of Design Engineering Under Carpet Lite. I may wait until installing the trans tunnel to complete the firewall. I used the Under Carpet on my Chevelle and have been really happy with how well it blocks heat from reaching through the floor.

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[Roger Pugh]

Very cool!! I love the red!
Roger

[Michael101]

I swear ... I’m going to get a custom license plate with ‘DIDNFIT’ on it

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[sethmark]

Welcome to the joy of interdependencies.

[FF33rod]

Yup. I redid the brake line routing twice in one part of the car ... Remember, this is fun!!! ;) Just think how much easier the next one is going to be knowing what you know now...

[sethmark]

Yessir. And it’s ALL about attitude and expectations. Expect nothing and never be disappointed.

[Michael101]

Expect nothing and never be disappointed. :D

Good one Seth. I’m not really upset about this ‘DIDNFIT’, did it all myself. I must have ordered the distributor before deciding to go with the dual quad setup. So if anyone is in the market for a new (only halfway installed once) MSD 8451 let me know.

[sethmark]

Why not get a $10 phenolic spacer for the EFI?

[Michael101]

I’m about to be exhausted :p

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[Michael101]

This DIDNFIT theme is starting to wear thin :mad:

Looks like my super cool CVF Racing Accessory Drive is a no-go. Really disappointing because I like the look of their setup and they've been very responsive to my needs.

I started mounting the kit last night only to find that the bracket hits a frame support on the lower pass side. This part of the bracket is where the belt tensioner mounts so it would need at least three inches of clearance to work. I sent the CVF crew a message this morning but I'm not optimistic that they have a different mounting option.
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[tony]

that's an awesome bracket!

[Michael101]

I'm almost finished with the easy part of my exhaust setup, which is from the headers to the rear of the drivers compartment. The Gen II has a ton of room to route exhaust in this area compared to what I've seen on the Gen I.

I started by replacing the socket type connection at the headers with V-Band clamps. The socket isn't a bad option and is typically a bit more flexible for installation. I guess this is just another instance of my obsessing over things that probably don't matter :cool:
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I used a Summit 2.5" stainless universal cross-over kit with Summit mufflers to build the first part of the exhaust system. It'll be suspended by one exhaust support located just behind the transmission cross-member. I've ordered DEI wrap for this part of the system and will use their muffler shield material as well. I know that the DEI wrap will trap moisture so just to be safe I coated each of the weld areas with hi-temp exhaust paint, maybe useless but I had it available so why not.

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Haven't really figured out how I'm going to route through the IRS area yet. I have several 45's and a couple of 180's plus a welding machine...and plenty of time to figure it out right?

[Michael101]

Progress on the exhaust today. It’s going to be quite a bit easier than I’d thought to get through to the rear of the car.

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[McGuyver]

That is coming along very nice!

[FF33rod]

Looking great. Hey, just a thought on the front pulley system.

I put the March Performance Style Track on my 347. Worked fantastic. The belt tensioner was optional and I initially I didn't purchase it. Without it, the tension is set old school with moving the alternator or AC compressor outward to make things tighter. Even though it worked fine I got the bright idea of getting the spring loaded tensioner - found exactly the same as you, there was no darn room for it. So, what about forgetting about the tensioner and just go with manual adjustment? Alternatively, maybe have a look at the March systems

Cheers, Steve

[Michael101]

Thanks Steve. My plan was to read through your post this morning to see what you had used, you saved me some reading! Did you buy your accessories separately?

I thought about using a different style tensioner but hadn’t consider going without. I know that I’ve seen manual tensioners before somewhere. I actually have two main brackets in my possession, the one that came with my kit had a bo-bo so they sent a replacement. I should be able to experiment with the bad one and come up with a working solution.


Looking great. Hey, just a thought on the front pulley system.

I put the March Performance Style Track on my 347. Worked fantastic. The belt tensioner was optional and I initially I didn't purchase it. Without it, the tension is set old school with moving the alternator or AC compressor outward to make things tighter. Even though it worked fine I got the bright idea of getting the spring loaded tensioner - found exactly the same as you, there was no darn room for it. So, what about forgetting about the tensioner and just go with manual adjustment? Alternatively, maybe have a look at the March systems

Cheers, Steve

[FF33rod]

Yes bought the accessories separately, without knowing if they'd fit.
The key to manual tensioning with either the alternator or the compressor is having a slotted mount so the adjustment can take place. Looking at your picture I don't see any slotted holes which may make it difficult.

You can see the slotted holes in the upper corners of the mount in this picture....
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[Michael101]

I’ve made it to the rear of the car with the exhaust. I’ll have to make changes with the rear exit though. I should have mocked up the trunk aluminum before finishing the rear part but it was in the garage attic and somehow getting it down seemed to difficult at the time...now that seems dumb :rolleyes:

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[Michael101]

I started working on my CVF accessory drive today. I had to remove a part of the main bracket where the belt tensioner mounted to make it fit so I’ll need to fabricate a tensioner somehow.

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[cob427sc]

It looks like your exhaust terminates inside the trunk area at this point? Your correct in that I believe you need to fabricate the remaining exhaust once the trunk aluminum panels are installed.

[Michael101]

Working on the trans tunnel a bit today. It wold have been fine as it comes from FF but I decided to modify it to get a little more foot room. I’ll pick up about an inch on the driver side and about two on the pass side. Doesn’t seem like much but I think it’s worth the effort. Doing this presents a bit of a challenge around the floor and firewall. With this narrower set up I’ll need to add some support material to which I can secure the tunnel flanged surfaces.

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[Michael101]

Made some mods to my exhaust route in the rear. I couldn’t fit the 2.5” through the same area as the FF exhaust but found what I think is a suitable spot. I don’t think I’ll have interference with the lower A-arm, that would only happen with a very compressed suspension. If I do I’ll just have to rethink it once again. I’ll add the final pieces with tips once the body is in place.
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[FF33rod]

Looking good! I'd be a bit apprehensive about that routing on the exhaust. I guess the true test is car on the ground with proper ride height and then see what the margin is. Routing over the IRS center section that the manual calls for didn't work for me so I went outside like you but above the upper control arm. You don't have enough room for that? 127292

Steve

[AJT '33]

I also routed it over the top, this is the end result sitting on the ground to alleviate and interference.
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[Michael101]

Thanks for the photos guys

[Michael101]

I wouldn't have thought that installing the go-pedal would warrant much discussion. That is, until I installed mine. I spent way more time messing with this thing than I'd thought so I'm adding this info to my thread thinking that it may help someone down the road.

First off, there's always discussion about pedal placement in relation to the brake/clutch pedals and many on here have added spacers to get them inline. I did the same using a piece of 1" tubing. I added a threaded tab on the side of my bracket just in case I need to add a pedal stop at some time.

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My fuse box placement along with the use of an interior mounting panel gave me a small challenge when routing the throttle cable. Getting around the fuse panel wasn't that big of a deal but drilling through the mounting panel/firewall without being able to see the firewall frame did cause me a bit of trouble. I'm saying this to point out that I wish I'd addressed the throttle cable install much sooner in my build progression, at least I should have mocked it up before adding the interior panel.

End result worked out great though with my throttle pedal being almost even with the brake/clutch. I feel like I have adequate room too between the pedal and trans tunnel.

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[Michael101]

After much deliberation I decided to install the battery in the trunk. I'd originally planned to install this hidden beneath the fuel tank but decided that this install will be better suited for easy maintenance while on a road trip. I'll end up building a fiberglass box around it just to make it look a little better.

I welded a ground stud to the frame just below the battery location for the battery ground and ground distribution throughout the car.

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[Michael101]

Earlier in my build thread I’d mentioned that my CVF bracket was a no-go with our chassis configuration. I had a chat with CVF at that time and found that they unfortunately did not have a setup that would work with our cars. Also at that time I was well beyond their advertised return window since I’d ordered this setup very early in my build process.

The issue is with the lower passenger side of the CVF bracket where the belt tensioner would go. The bracket hits the frame and there’s just no way that the auto adjust belt tensioner would go in that spot without cutting the frame support.

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I spent quite a bit of time thinking about what I should do. The Acc drive is one of the bigger cost items for our builds so I really didn’t want to buy a second setup. And I knew that trying to sell the kit would likely only get about half of my money back IF it even sold. I may have been able to work something out with CVF but this isn’t their fault and at the time everything had just shut down because of COVID, so that didn’t feel right.

I’ve had an idea of how to make this work from the beginning but it required cutting up this great looking bracket so I took some time to think it over first. It really helped that CVF sent me a replacement for the original bracket which was missing some of the finish machining, I was able to experiment with the bad original then make the final cuts on the good bracket.

I finally went for it this past weekend and I’m feeling really good about the result.
I would have preferred to have an auto belt tensioner but that wasn’t doable so I settled for a manual tensioner. Like everything else on these cars, it’s cramped and will be a challenge to adjust later, but I’m feeling lucky to have what I have.

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[sread]

looks like it should work great - and I have to say I think that is the fanciest tap handle I have ever seen...

[ken33]

i would agree on the tap handle lol

[shmelty]

Jason,

What intake are you running? Any issues with space for the dual snipers?

[Michael101]

Jason,

What intake are you running? Any issues with space for the dual snipers?

I have the Edelbrock #7585 intake. Spacing for the dual snipers doesn't seem to be a problem but I haven't had the hood on since installing the engine. I did have issues with distributor fitment though. I tried MSD first but the cap was too big. What I have now is the Holley Sniper distributor (shoulda done that first anyway) #510-556-302BK.

[Michael101]

Finished my fuel lines yesterday. I'm realizing now that I'm not very far from being able to start this puppy up!

I need to find a good place to mount the vent line filter. There's plenty of space directly beneath the fuel tank, but I'm thinking that it needs to be in an area that will not trap the fuel fumes?

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[Michael101]

Everything is ready for start, just waiting on radiator hoses from Mike.

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[JOP33]

Very clean build! Looks awesome!

[JimLev]

I see you have Tim’s bump steer parts. Have you set it up yet?
Do you remember how much of the threads you had to cut off?
I still need to install mine.

[Michael101]

Hey Jim
I haven’t set the bump steer up completely, it’s semi close as it sits. I cut off several inches. It’s an easy install and the parts from Tim are excellent.

[sethmark]

On the second gen car, any bump steer correction is unnecessary. Tie rod ends are parallel and travel with the suspension links without compromise.

[JimLev]

IIRC I’m pretty sure NAZ had mentioned just because they are parallel doesn’t mean you won’t have bump steer. Correct me if I’m wrong.
I haven’t installed mine yet, been working on installing the power windows.

[sethmark]

Certainly there’s more to it than just parallel. But the long and short of it is that in order to avoid bump steer, the tie rods and suspension have to remain equal lengths throughout the range of motion. In essence, as a suspension moves through it’s range of travel everything shortens at the same rate.

Since we moved, my car lives at Virginia international raceway. I don’t have parking for the house..... It’s been picked apart ruthlessly by some fairly name brand race car guys, plus was corner balanced by one of the prep shops. Perhaps the set up is just right now, but I just drove it 50 miles and it definitely does not bump steer in corners.

[Michael101]

OK....so I cheated :D

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[TxMike64]

OK....so I cheated :D

NICE! Makes for a neat clean installation. I can't justify the cost for something that rarely gets used in my daily drivers, and would nearly never get used in an automatic hotrod weekend cruiser. But both our dailies have electric parking brakes and they're nice to have.

[RoadRacer]

Wow super clean, and you really did change all the exhaust system routing even under the car! I ended up wrapping my mufflers in two layers and the ends too, and it sure made a difference in the heat. I'm also wrapping the joints with some leftover strips.

[Michael101]

I ended up wrapping my mufflers in two layers and the ends too, and it sure made a difference in the heat.

I think I'm going to re-do the muffler insulation like you're talking about. I have to send my headers off to Jethot anyway so I'll be making a few exhaust changes.

[Michael101]

Current Status...I spent a couple of months just focusing on body prep and now have almost everything ready for paint. I’m working through a few details with the defrost vents, gas cap, and tail lights. I thought it would be a neat idea to have this stuff flush mounted.

I’ve been procrastinating on ordering the wheels but I think it’s time to get past that and move on. The wheel thing has been the most difficult decision for me. There’s a lot of info on here about sizes and backspacing but no definitive ‘do this’ . Like everyone else I want the fattest I can get without interference. Plus I’ve really been debating on the color combo, trying to decide if I should match my powder coating or just go with polished finish. Right now I’m thinking full red finish with 18x9/5.5 BS up front and 18x10/5.5 BS rear. I may go ahead and pull the trigger this week.

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[McGuyver]

Jason, looks great. Good to see the post and progress.

[Michael101]

So at the last minute I (my wife) decided I should switch from my planned HOK paint scheme and go with Satin Black. Now that it's done, I'm loving the way the black blends with the red so good call. Another thing, I haven't painted a car in probably 20 years and had totally forgotten how much of a task it is just to shoot the paint, especially with these cars having so many individual parts. Shooting four coats of the satin left me absolutely exhausted, if I'd have gone the original HOK route I'd have shot nine coats...I think I'd have passed out before finishing :cool:

From the beginning I've wanted to go with black but have just a hint of red hidden in the paint. Something that makes a person do a double take and wonder if they're seeing something other than black. I used Custom Shop Chassis Satin Black and blended in a small amount of red garnet micro-pearls directly into the paint. Pearls are typically suspended over a base coat using a carrier coat, that way the pearls really show up. But in my case I didn't shoot a base/clear, and I didn't really want the pearl to jump out. Everything worked out like I'd hoped, only under direct sunlight can you see the red, and it kind of disappears when you try to look for it.

I have to say, in spite of all of my b!tching and whining while doing body fitment, I really enjoyed the challenge. I started off as a fiberglass novice about a year ago, and now I'm still a fiberglass novice, but with probably 350 hours of experience. I've gained a ton of knowledge. Good stuff.

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[HotrodMike]

So at the last minute I (my wife) decided I should switch from my planned HOK paint scheme and go with Satin Black. Now that it's done, I'm loving the way the black blends with the red so good call. Another thing, I haven't painted a car in probably 20 years and had totally forgotten how much of a task it is just to shoot the paint, especially with these cars having so many individual parts. Shooting four coats of the satin left me absolutely exhausted, if I'd have gone the original HOK route I'd have shot nine coats...I think I'd have passed out before finishing :cool:

From the beginning I've wanted to go with black but have just a hint of red hidden in the paint. Something that makes a person do a double take and wonder if they're seeing something other than black. I used Custom Shop Chassis Satin Black and blended in a small amount of red garnet micro-pearls directly into the paint. Pearls are typically suspended over a base coat using a carrier coat, that way the pearls really show up. But in my case I didn't shoot a base/clear, and I didn't really want the pearl to jump out. Everything worked out like I'd hoped, only under direct sunlight can you see the red, and it kind of disappears when you try to look for it.

I have to say, in spite of all of my b!tching and whining while doing body fitment, I really enjoyed the challenge. I started off as a fiberglass novice about a year ago, and now I'm still a fiberglass novice, but with probably 350 hours of experience. I've gained a ton of knowledge. Good stuff.

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Your car is really looking exceptional I like all of the attention to detail. Just one question, where did you get your center console it looks like it was made for the hotrod!!

[Michael101]

Just one question, where did you get your center console it looks like it was made for the hotrod!!
Modern Classics Interiors Mike. Do some research before you decide to order though. It’s a great product but communication with this guy is non-existent. It took six months to arrive and I had to email the guy a zillion times to get that to happen. It’s not a COVID thing ,that’s always been his MO. Some people have better delivery times, some people never receive the product.

[FF33rod]

You did take the risk and get the console, glad you got it!

The black over the red looks fantastic!

Steve

[j33ptj]

Modern Classics Interiors Mike. Do some research before you decide to order though. It’s a great product but communication with this guy is non-existent. It took six months to arrive and I had to email the guy a zillion times to get that to happen. It’s not a COVID thing ,that’s always been his MO. Some people have better delivery times, some people never receive the product.

Awesome colour scheme!! Have you thought abt painting the rim around the car red too? or a pinstripe on it?

which console did you order? Stiletto 1005?

[FF33rod]

Awesome colour scheme!! Have you thought abt painting the rim around the car red too? or a pinstripe on it?

which console did you order? Stiletto 1005?

Mine was the tall stiletto, thought the regular was just a bit short. If you order (and PLEASE heed the advice of researching this company, go open with your eyes open) be careful about shifter position relative to cup holders and other options.

Steve

[Michael101]

Working on alignment now that I have the wheels
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[sethmark]

Definitely one of my favorites.

[Michael101]

Definitely one of my favorites.

Thanks Seth!

[Michael101]

Moving along at the speed of an old turtle. Like some of our other FF friends have pointed out recently ‘life’ sure has a way of reprioritizing us sometimes.

Anyhow, I have the dash assembled and ready to install, just waiting on extra A/C vent hose to come in. I can’t imaging trying to get this done without the removable dash.
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[FF33rod]

I can’t imaging trying to get this done without the removable dash.


LOL. Well putting it together is one thing without the removable dash but then servicing or doing anything afterward is even more difficult. Getting at the wiring is a challenge, the bolts for the removable hard top is next to impossible,.... FFR changing it to a removable piece was a very good idea....

Steve

[Michael101]

A couple of ‘I wish I would haves’ from my dash install…
1. Wish I’d attached the A/C duct hoses to the A/C before installing the body. It’s not an impossible task with the body on but it’s quite a bit more difficult for sure, and I have the bloody knuckles to prove it.
2. Wish I’d inserted the A/C thermostat wire in the A/C core before installing the body. It’s almost impossible to get it in with the body on, I have it inserted but not as far as the Vintage Air instructions want…oh well.

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[peterh226]

I recommend the Holley part that provides a larger arc and a less sensitive pedal.
Holley 20-16 Sniper EFI Throttle Lever Extension

[33fromSD]

Fully agree with Peter. I have a Holley Sniper EFI w/ Holley Hyper Spark EI on my 70 Challenger with a built 318 and without the throttle extension I couldn't leave a stop sign or stop light without spinning the tires or giving someone whiplash.

After I installed the 20-16 throttle level extension I have no issues feathering it off the line and having a nice controlled start. It will still react too if you want too.

Such a simple yet effect mod. Probably the smartest $14 I ever spent.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_efi_service_components/parts/20-16

Jim

[Tampa33Build]

I have had one on back order for two months, Holly estimates shipping Dec 31

[peterh226]

I got mine from Summit...

[FF33rod]

Just an FYI, EFI systems pro is an excellent resource for Sniper and other Holley EFI systems and accessories. Some excellent articles and videos.
Unfortunately they are sold out of the throttle extension at this point
https://www.efisystempro.com/sniper

Steve

[Michael101]

Here's one of those things that I should have made a decision on earlier in my build. I 'kinda' knew that I didn't want to go with the racing belts but back shelved the decision until now. This is a fairly easy install but it would have been easier if I'd planned it before installing the body and before painting the waterfall. Just thought I'd archive that bit of info for others.

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[FF33rod]

Cool Jason, thanks for the pics. What's in behind the waterfall - the seat belt retractor portion....

Thx
Steve

[Michael101]

It's a little hard to see but I have the retractor bolted through the frame just below the gas tank.

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[FF33rod]

Ahh, got it thanks! That second shot really clarified. I may get rid of the 5 point and go that route. The 5 point is cumbersome, chunks of metal on it are wacking the paint on the console, doors,....

Steve

[33fromSD]

Ahh, got it thanks! That second shot really clarified. I may get rid of the 5 point and go that route. The 5 point is cumbersome, chunks of metal on it are wacking the paint on the console, doors,....

Steve

Yup, I installed a lap belt about 3 rides in after I completed the 33 last year. Since I don't have a hard top, the 5 point harness was really uncomfortable in hot / humid days as well as the chunks of metal on it hitting the paint all the time. I left the shoulder belts installed (tucked behind the seats) should I ever choose to go back to the 5 point if I would ever track it (doubtful).

Just the lap belt is not the safest I know, but I'm used to the lap belt on all my other classics (mustangs, challenger, austin healey). If I ever do major interior work on the 33 I will convert to 3 point.

Jim

[Michael101]

I've finally made it through registration and I'm on the road! Temp tags for now but I should have the official title/reg back within the next few weeks.

Wow it's been a long time since I've updated, so long that I've probably forgotten some of the things that I've done to the car over the last year. A couple of things that I want to add to the thread though for those that are starting the process and might benefit from the info.

1. Power Steering - Solid yes for me. I drove the car down the road once (several months ago) and immediately knew that I wouldn't be happy without the PS install. I ended up using a Flaming River kit because at the time FF was out of stock. Installation was easy and very worth the effort.

2. My car weighed in at 2520lbs with a 52% Front/ 48% Rear distribution.

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[33fromSD]

I've finally made it through registration and I'm on the road! Temp tags for now but I should have the official title/reg back within the next few weeks.

Wow it's been a long time since I've updated, so long that I've probably forgotten some of the things that I've done to the car over the last year. A couple of things that I want to add to the thread though for those that are starting the process and might benefit from the info.

1. Power Steering - Solid yes for me. I drove the car down the road once (several months ago) and immediately knew that I wouldn't be happy without the PS install. I ended up using a Flaming River kit because at the time FF was out of stock. Installation was easy and very worth the effort.

2. My car weighed in at 2520lbs with a 52% Front/ 48% Rear distribution.

191957
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191959

Nice looking Hot Rod.

Jim

[cvacca]

Jason, amazing looking HR. You did an incredible job and I've really enjoyed reading your posts. Love the color scheme. In the process of building my own. You mentioned you were thinking about going with 18x9/5.5 BS up front and 18x10/5.5 BS rear wheels to fit under your bike fenders, but it looks like you may have gone with slightly different sizes. Can I ask what they are and have you had any issues while driving?