Did I Fry my heater?!

[Mark Eaton]

I wired up my heater and windshield wipers a couple of days ago. I tested the wiper motor and it was working fine. Hadn't gotten to the heater yet but I was working on some fog light wiring when I noticed smoke coming from my firewall near the heater. This is what I found.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106455&d=1556495289

The insulation around the heater valve control cable was melting against the firewall. I looked at the switch and found that the main power source "blue" wire came from the factory with no insulation. I'm irritated with myself for not noticing when I installed it. At any rate, it shorted against the control cable and caused a melt down.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106456&d=1556495324

I immediately shut off my MDS and wrapped the connection with electrical tape. It was too late, the cable is essentially welded to its metal sheath and won't actuate the heater valve. Also, when I turn the knob the fan does not come on. :( Hopefully this is because it threw this circuit breaker and did not fry the fan motor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106457&d=1556495354

I don't know anything about this type of circuit breaker. Is there a way to trip it back and find out it my heater fan motor still works, or does it just need to be replace?

I thought about contacting FFR and having them send me a new knob, cable, assembly thing but I really didn't like it after I had installed it. It wasn't going to go nicely in the spot I was planning. I'm thinking about replacing it with this Heater control valve assembly from Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-50507-vua

Anybody have good experience with these?

Thanks,

Mark

[michael everson]

Your heater motor is probably fine. Pretty sure that circuit breaker self resets.
Here is what I do on all my builds to eliminate that hard cable.
Purchase these parts numbers through summit
VTA-11458-VUS
VTA-11542-VUS
VTA-46103-VUH
You need one of each. The open lug on the heater control switch powers the vacuum valve that opens the heater valve.
Mike

[CraigS]

Or don't bother w/ remote control for the valve. I didn't get my cable installed right away so just opened the valve manually. I close it some time in April. Fan off ,or on low, or on high, is good enough control for me.

[phileas_fogg]

Thanks for posting; I wish I'd seen this before I installed my heater switch. Looks like folks need to wrap that cable stem with electrical tape before installing the switch.

Also, if you're using the Ron Francis harness & fuse box, that 30A breaker will never come into play. You'll blow the 20A fuse in the RF box first. I removed mine.


John

[Norm B]

If you need another breaker I think I still have mine in a box of leftover electrical parts. Didn’t see the point of a fuse and breaker on the same circuit. Your heater motor should be fine but your switch is most likely fried.

Good Luck

Norm

[DadofThree]

I'm with Craig on this one. Having only gone through one winter with the heater (which works great!), I used the fan to control the amount of heat by Lo-Med-Hi selection. I don't have a temp control switch at all on my car. The heater's used a lot when my wife or daughter are in the car (Just used it this morning) and it's comfortable for them. :) But I do indeed understand your desire to have one.

HTH, Dave

[swwebb]

I thought about contacting FFR and having them send me a new knob, cable, assembly thing but I really didn't like it after I had installed it. It wasn't going to go nicely in the spot I was planning. I'm thinking about replacing it with this Heater control valve assembly from Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-50507-vua

Anybody have good experience with these?

Thanks,

Mark

I just installed the heater control valve over the winter, and I love the control it gives over the heat from the heater on the cool nights driving home. Totally recommend it.

It does make the heater line installation a little more complicated depending on your current setup. I mounted the control valve on top on the passenger footbox.

[Boydster]

I have a new, never-used heater control if you want it. No wiring, but has the knob, 4 position rheostat, push-pull cable, black covering, exactly like what you show above. I didnt use it because my heater fan is either on or off, and I have a Old Air Products electric on / off / modulator valve.

You can have it if ya want it.

[Mark Eaton]

I have a new, never-used heater control if you want it. No wiring, but has the knob, 4 position rheostat, push-pull cable, black covering, exactly like what you show above. I didnt use it because my heater fan is either on or off, and I have a Old Air Products electric on / off / modulator valve.

You can have it if ya want it.

I'll take it!

PM sent

[Boydster]

I'll take it!

PM sent

It'll ship later today. Want me to put some heatshrink on the tube? ;)

[Mark Eaton]

It'll ship later today. Want me to put some heatshrink on the tube? ;)

LOL, much obliged! I have plenty of heat shrink:p