Professional Motorsports Wiring Harness Venture [Archive]

Shoeless

04-27-2019, 11:45 AM

Hey Guys,

So I have been taking some HPA classes for a bit learning EFI Tuning and general wiring harness construction and recently pulled the trigger on their Professional Motorsports Harness Construction class to learn the methods of constructing a top tier motorsports wiring harness for my GTM. I'm about a third of the way through the classes and have decided to go down this path for my GTM wiring harness. This class builds on what was taught in the previous two classes (Wiring Fundamentals and Club Level Harness Construction).

I figured since this will be an area that might garner a lot of attention, I decided on a new thread separate from my build thread was appropriate. I plan on documenting the training as I go along, the differences between lower level wiring harness construction versus a motorsports level harness, the tools required (which are damn expensive BTW), and the actual construction of the harness for my GTM. What I have learned so far is that this process will easily take 4 X more time than just a standard wiring harness construction, with way more time upfront in planning even before you cut the first wire.

The training starts out with the following main areas:
1. Component Listing and Physical Location
2. Power Supply Design
3. Sensor Design
4. Grounding Design
5. Actuator Design
6. Material Selection
7. Harness Routing
8. Concentric Twisting
9. Construction Plan

I'm currently somewhere between 3 and 5 laying out what the current harness would look like for an AEM Infinity Series 7 ECU integrated into the GTM. This will help me create the plan for the full pin out documentation and a general understanding and check that I have everything accounted for.

https://i.imgur.com/0pFD0OY.jpg

As mentioned this process will take significant time, but the end result will be a wiring harness that will withstand any operating conditions and perform for years to come.

Stay tuned for more and I hope this will be as enjoyable for everyone else and it will be for me to learn and actually build a high end motorsports harness.

GWL

04-27-2019, 12:41 PM

I look forward to seeing what you put together here. For my roadster build I made significant changes to the harness supplied with my kit. Even added a second harness, ignition switched and unswitched to manage my accessories such as cruise control, A/C and heating, driving lights, radiator modulated cooling fan control and more. Read as much as I could in the standard auto books and got involved in dicussions here and elsewhere but I know I only am touching the surface.

Again, I am looking forward to your posts.

George

GWL

04-27-2019, 12:47 PM

Your schematic - what kind of learning curve does it take to develope and what program/software are you using? Obviously I'll be working from the wrong end as my wiring is 95% done.

George

Shoeless

04-27-2019, 01:05 PM

Your schematic - what kind of learning curve does it take to develope and what program/software are you using? Obviously I'll be working from the wrong end as my wiring is 95% done.

George

Hey George,

Thank you for the interest in this post. I figured there would be plenty of interest in this community. The software I am using is Visio Professional 2016 and thankfully I had a reason to get it loaded on my work computer. The software itself is pretty straight forward. I simply googled the topics I needed to learn (Creating special connectors, page layout size,...) the simple stuff, but some things were a little difficult to find, like creating custom wire colors. I found this to be cumbersome in the software as you are creating special formatting for each wire and the file size quickly grew out of control and started to lag. In order to alleviate this issue, I followed the training from HPA on wire color choices:

Power Supply - Red
Power Ground - Black
Sensor Supply - Orange
Sensor Ground - Green
CAN H - White
CAN L - Green
All others - White

This will also cut down on the cost of procuring wire. When creating a Club Level/Daily Driver wiring harness TXL wire is the preferred go to, but when you step up to Professional Motorsports level you need to use Tefzel. Tefzel is Milspec, more tolerant to heat, smaller diameter sheathing and requires special tools to strip and crimp.

The learning curve to simply create the diagram is very intensive. The approach I have taken is pull as many schematics from AEM as possible related to a GM LS motor application, using what will apply to my build and deleting what is not used. This is currently where I am at. So far I think I have put in about 30 - 40 hours of pulling schematics, dissecting available pin out documentation from the schematics, and laying out what I will use in my set up. Each harness will be unique to the car and application, so it's important to follow the steps listed in the first post of outlining all the sensors, actuators, and grounding scheme you will use.

Its also worth noting, I have started with no automotive wiring experience, except installing some stereo equipment in my daily drivers, so its a steep learning curve for me at the moment. Not to mention reading the 400+ page manual for the AEM Infinity Series 7 ECU. The majority of topics are brand new to me, so I have taken the time to pick up more books on the topic as well as taking the HPA Tuning Classes.

crash

04-29-2019, 11:36 AM

If you are going to step up to "professional grade" wiring harnesses with Tefzel, Deutsch plugs, and Raychem then I would recommend ProWire USA. Nick is a long time supplier for my personal projects and he has everything you could need to build whatever you may want. He also sells in small quantities and caters to motosports. Abouth the only items I have found he doesn't have are Lemo plugs. He says they are too expensive to stock, but I keep asking for them every time I get something from him. Maybe someday...

https://www.prowireusa.com/

Shoeless

04-29-2019, 05:23 PM

jamesfr58

05-04-2019, 05:20 PM

Shoeless,
It will be interesting to follow this new thread on building your wire harness. I also scrapped the painless harness on my build. In going with the Infinity Box system, I also built my own wiring to integrate the different components used in my build. I have the Infinity Box CAN bus system, Digital Dawg RFID keyless system, E-brake electronic parking brake. The CAN bus system ties into the Digital Dawg RFID system for safety systems starting the GTM. They control the different accessary systems, accessary 1 come on with the first push of the ignition button turning on systems that I want to run without turning the ignition system on, with a second push of the ignition button the accessory 2 circuit come on turning on all main ignition systems and causing the start button to flash ready for start. The third push and hold to start the GTM with brake depressed (safety system) and ready to go.

I also have a Dakota Digital HDX dash gauge system monitoring all functions and systems required and displayed on the dash. With this system I also have the GPS speed module and a 2 speed fan controller that I can set the on/off temperatures for both fans, this system ties into he AC system to control the fans during AC on / AC off and there is also a window switch controller controlling the AC clutch to protect against over speed conditions that will turn off the AC compressor clutch at a specified RPM and turn the AC clutch back o at a specified RPM.

To get this all to work together I also had to build my own wire harness and bring the wiring from the ECU (I also have a create LS3 engine supplied with custom controller for the engine that was built for my GTM) into the Dakota Digital system controlling everything else.

I am sure your wiring harness when finished will be what my harness should have looked like as all I did was build a logic tree for the systems and build the harness from there. There were a few hiccups and had to move a few wires around but got it all working. Each sensor from engine has its own separate wiring, dedicated ground, power supply and in some cased is inside shielding to prevent electrical interference. I am sure this method caused me to run more wiring than might have been needed but on some of the other cars I have in my collection there have been and still are issues with gauges etc. due to common grounds and no shielding.

It may have been possible to make it look cleaner and hide more of the wiring if I had done what you are doing and put the wiring schematic down on paper instead of in my head, but I did not go through the same exercise you are now doing (or I should say, did not do it the right way after building my logic tree) and develop a really good road map for my built harness should I every forget where the wiring goes (which I am sure I will do someday) to be able to look up and trace a wiring problem easily if there is ever a easy wiring problem!

So now that I have written a dissertation on my wiring, I will be great to follow your new thread on the development and implementation of building a pro class wire harness. Thank you for sharing your learning experience and knowledge as you move forward building a first-class pro wiring harness as I am sure you will do after following you on this form and he work you have done to date. Keep up the good work….

Shoeless

05-06-2019, 06:34 PM

Hey James,

Looks like you and I both have some of the same features in mind for our GTMs. Both of our setups will control both fans at different temps, AC clutch control, LS3 with custom controller, and all monitored via a dash display. I always like seeing what others have done/are doing to get ideas and make sure I'm not out in left field with my expectations. Although I have had some setbacks, I think I have it all straightened out now.

Going with a complete standalone ECU that I will wire up from scratch, and program from scratch, A LOT of time will go into the planning. Even once I have the sensors, actuators, power supply, and grounding design all laid out, then comes the routing design (I need to have basically everything on the engine and in place to do the harness routing) and then plan the concentric twisting design.

I'm really looking forward to this as I was originally overwhelmed by the idea of wiring up the GTM, but I'm taking it one step at a time and following the classes I'm taking.

Shoeless

11-03-2019, 08:36 PM

I have finally arrived at a point where I can confidently say my pinout diagram and associated documentation for for my standalone ECU is complete. I'll likely do some tweaks along the way, but she is 99% complete. It has been quite the journey from the first posting on this topic. This has taken countless days of research and teaching myself the basics and advance functions of standalone ECU control and the knowledge I have gained along the way will allow me to troubleshoot any issue I find along the way. At this point I can say I have the following items of the 9 step process I'm following laid out.

2. Power Supply Design
3. Sensor Design
4. Grounding Design
5. Actuator Design

I had to halfway skip the first step as I know all the components, but their physical location will take more work on the GTM. Hopefully the guys at Mendy can get me my transaxle and I can start laying out physical location of everything in the car.

https://i.imgur.com/DBbLfm8.jpg

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

11-04-2019, 09:29 AM

Dang....you are in for a lot of work there!! I do not envy the work you have ahead of you.

SteveE

11-04-2019, 12:43 PM

Great Job glad to see that you have gotten the design part out of the way. keep up the outstanding work

Steve

claybags

11-04-2019, 01:34 PM

Geezz!!! My hat is off to all you electrical geniuses out there. I thought the Painless harness was a PITA!!
Cheers , Jeff

Logan

11-04-2019, 05:02 PM

As a big proponent for Motorsports-grade hardware...this is awesome to see. Keep this ball rolling, and post the updates as you go. It’s fun to follow along!

Shoeless

11-04-2019, 05:44 PM

Dang....you are in for a lot of work there!! I do not envy the work you have ahead of you.

You got that right LOL. I was told the amount of time involved in the motorsports grade level harness will be about 4 X that of a track day level harness, but in the end it will be a true work of art.

Great Job glad to see that you have gotten the design part out of the way. keep up the outstanding work

Steve

Thank you Sir!!!

Geezz!!! My hat is off to all you electrical geniuses out there. I thought the Painless harness was a PITA!!
Cheers , Jeff

Thanks Jeff, this was quite the feat to accomplish. Even more challenging was figuring out how to integrate the other systems (InfinityBox, Vintage Air,...) to make sure everything is talking to each other the way it should.

As a big proponent for Motorsports-grade hardware...this is awesome to see. Keep this ball rolling, and post the updates as you go. It’s fun to follow along!

Thanks Logan!!! More posts to come.

beeman

11-04-2019, 08:06 PM

Impressive.
Do you have an approximate date for your gearbox?

Shoeless

11-05-2019, 11:00 AM

Impressive.
Do you have an approximate date for your gearbox?

Thanks beeman!!!

It was supposed to be 3 months ago when I sent the last check, but then more excuses started to fly. I’m kind of at a standstill as I have the frame on roller dollies to move it around to get the shipping crate into my garage for when the trans arrives. Once it arrives, I can finally put it back on hard stands and throw the motor back in and go from there.

Shoeless

12-07-2019, 06:34 PM

https://i.imgur.com/770bnU4.jpg

Got some goodies in the mail after blowing some Black Friday cash. Although I'm still not ready to start building the harness, I couldn't pass up these deals to start getting everything ready.

- Crimpers and wire strippers on the left include an Ideal Ergo Elite with Wire Stop, Ideal Strip Master HD, Ideal Cutter, Sargent 3137 Splice Crimper, budget crimpers, and various Deutsch and Delphi removal tools.
- Top left is are 25 ft spools or Raychem DR-25 in various diameters.
- Top middle box are various lengths of Raychem RT-375 (used to put over printed heat shrink labels to seal them)
- Top right is a race spec ID kit (used to identify wires when you are using one color, white mainly, for many of your circuits)
- Bottom right is Raychem and Molex splice kit (includes solder sleeves and several variants of race spec splices)
- Bottom middle is kapton tape, kevlar lace, and a couple connector plugs.

I'll still need to pick up a DMC AFM-8 crimper, but before I do that I'll spec out all the mil-spec connectors I will use. Each one has very specific pins and require different positioners for the AFM8 to crimp them properly, so I want to know how many different positions I need before I order those up. Sometimes there are bundle kits that include some of the popular positioners to save a little, so I'll hold off on these.

jamesfr58

12-07-2019, 11:59 PM

Sean,

Looking good, it takes a while and I had to modify a few things but in the end you know where every wire and circuit goes which is a help if you every need to diagnosis a problem later. Keep us informed and good luck lots of tedious work ahead but well worth it.

crash

12-09-2019, 12:19 PM

I'll still need to pick up a DMC AFM-8 crimper, but before I do that I'll spec out all the mil-spec connectors I will use. Each one has very specific pins and require different positioners for the AFM8 to crimp them properly, so I want to know how many different positions I need before I order those up. Sometimes there are bundle kits that include some of the popular positioners to save a little, so I'll hold off on these.

Just get the three position turret and it will cover all the pins you will use. Basically just three different size pins. Between the tool adjustment for wire size and the turret adjustment for pin size you should be covered. I have never needed anything else.

Shoeless

12-09-2019, 04:02 PM

Just get the three position turret and it will cover all the pins you will use. Basically just three different size pins. Between the tool adjustment for wire size and the turret adjustment for pin size you should be covered. I have never needed anything else.

Thanks for the heads up on those. I've seen them and figured they were for several sizes, just didn't quite fully understand them yet. This confirms my suspicion.

Shoeless

12-30-2019, 06:33 PM

I've got a couple more orders into suppliers for needed tooling, some Tefzel wire, and several Deutsch AS connectors, so this won't be a large update on the construction of the engine wiring harness process, but on a topic that we all may think is a simple process. Crimping and sealing an auto sport level splice.

As I'm working on knocking out odds and ends, I have finally started on running wiring in the GTM. The first steps I'm working on are following the install instructions for the InfinityBox system. They all basically start with running power and ground, running switch and activation wiring, as well as CAN communications wiring. Since my front Power Cell and InMotion are right next to each other, the long CAN wire is not needed and offers up the perfect opportunity to discuss crimping and sealing in order to cut down the length.

List of Tools and Materials:
Heat Gun
Sargent 3137CT Crimpers
Raychem D-609-06 Mini-Seal Butt Splice
Raychem SCL 3/16 Diameter

First step was to layout and cut the CAN wire to the length needed and then stagger them so the butt splices won't be close to each other. I also did some test insulation stripping and recovered a piece of SCL just to make sure I was going to be happy with the end product.

https://i.imgur.com/dpgB7p7.jpg

From there, you need to choose the proper splice. Raychem offers the following three options for smaller diameter crimps and its all based on Circular Mil Area of the combined wires looking to crimp.

Red Band combined CMA 304-1510
Tin Plated: D-609-03
Nickel Plated: D-609-12

Blue Band combined CMA 1058-2680
Tin Plated: D-609-04
Nickel Plated: D-609-13

Yellow Band combined CMA 2350-6755
Tin Plated: D-609-05
Nickel Plated: D-609-14

The wiring for the CAN network on the InfinityBox system is 18 AWG which has a CMA of 1559 and is on the higher end of the red band, but I did a test crimp and pull test and it held perfectly. The proper length of the insulation to be removed is based on the diameter of the wire itself. You want to have between 1 and 2 x the diameter of the wire conductor exposed after the crimping operation is complete. The Tefzel wire strippers I picked up have a wire stop to perfectly be able to repeat wire strip length, but this is not tefzel wire, so I did not use that stripper. You can see in the crimps below that I have about 1 x the diameter of the 18 AWG wire exposed after the crimping operation.

https://i.imgur.com/s2on5RX.jpg

From here, I slide on two pieces of Raychem SCL Heatshrink, as I wanted a semi-rigid and sealed butt-splice, and recovered with the heat gun. You can see after recovering the Raychem SCL that the glue on the inside of the heat shrink has melted and is perfectly sealing the butt-splice.

https://i.imgur.com/thZAa9Z.jpg

From there, I completed the other connection and recovered the SCL and now have a finished CAN cable. II performed a continuity check with my volt meter and all checked out. I slid some of the wire protector on from the original section of the CAN wire and installed for a test fit. Perfect fit.

https://i.imgur.com/k5Tn9KP.jpg

In the long run, if I was going to do more of these types of connections on the InfinityBox setup, I would have approached this completely differently. I would have de-pinned one of the network connectors, procured need terminals that are proper for this plug, crimped on new network connectors, then re-pinned them in the network connector. But since I'm picking up a boat load of other crimpers for the engine wiring harness and battery cables, the pocketbook couldn't quite justify this for only a couple connections LOL.

Shoeless

01-10-2020, 06:48 PM

I have started to receive some goodies over the last couple of days and the below Deutsch AS connectors are a perfect example to share some more information. I plan on using these as flange connectors for the wheel speed sensors in the ZR1 hubs I have on my build. I will mount them close to the brake lines, using the appropriate gasket and nut plate, and will provide a sealed passthrough for the wiring for my wheel speed sensors.

Here are the associated PNs:
Left (Flange Socket): AS008-98SN
Right (Free Plug): AS608-98PN
Gasket (not pictured): GV-08
Nut Plate (not pictured): ATM396-8

This set of matched plug/socket combo will accept 3 x 20 ga. tefzel wires and will be sealed with a shrinkable boot and potting compound. This will accomodate the two signal wires and a passthrough of the shielding (the signal wiring will be a two conductor shielded braid).

I'm pacing myself on purchasing all the connectors and raw materials to not take a hit to the bank account all at once LOL. These are a thing of beauty, but damn pricy.

https://i.imgur.com/yzbwx5d.jpg

crash

01-13-2020, 11:42 AM

You might want to also check out Mouser and the two pin Lemo plugs they offer. I actually am responsible for getting that line item added to their inventory as I use them specifically for the wheel speed sensors. As with the ones you have there, they are pricey, but the Lemo plugs are quite a bit smaller and you can put them on the WSS wire and then mount the connector on the a arm as the form factor is significantly smaller than what you have there. This eliminates a splice, which I do as much as possible.

Aircontroller

01-13-2020, 02:05 PM

Hey, is this the course?

https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/professional-motorsport-wiring-harness-construction/

Shoeless

01-13-2020, 05:48 PM

Shoeless

01-13-2020, 05:53 PM

Hey, is this the course?

https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/professional-motorsport-wiring-harness-construction/

Evening Aircontroller,

Yes it is. I started with their wiring fundamentals, worked through the club day course, and finished off the professional motorsports class a little while back. i have also gone through most of the tuning classes as well as I want to do all the tuning on my build myself. The courses are very organized, full of content, and walks you through practical real world examples. Plus once you purchase the courses, you have access to them for life. You can access them as much as you want. I find myself referring back to them several times to make sure I'm absorbing the knowledge.

I started by watching one of their free Facebook 1 hour tuning sessions and at the end they give you a reduced price on their tuning package. From there I sign up for their free giveaways every so often and when they do the giveaway they always shoot you a coupon for $$$ off any new courses you want to order. I also just picked up their new offering by Racecraft on wheel alignment since I'll be do that myself as well.

crash

01-14-2020, 11:25 AM

I'll have to check those out. Could you share the PN of the ones you are referencing? I did a quick look and there are tons of options for Lemo.

Sorry, don't have one in front of me and I would prefer getting the PN off the body of the plug so I know it is correct. I'll stop by the shop this afternoon and try and get the PN.

crash

01-16-2020, 02:29 PM

LEMO part numbers are:

FGG.0T.302.CLAC50

PHG.0T.302.CLLC50

Mouser part numbers are:

736-FGG0T302CLAC50

736-PHG0T302CLLC50

Shoeless

01-16-2020, 07:10 PM

LEMO part numbers are:

FGG.0T.302.CLAC50

PHG.0T.302.CLLC50

Mouser part numbers are:

736-FGG0T302CLAC50

736-PHG0T302CLLC50

Thanks for running by the shop and getting these numbers for me. I'll take a look at the data sheet and get educated on them.

Shoeless

03-19-2020, 03:13 PM

Hey guys,

I decided it was time to practice my soldering and potting skills on a test button for my steering wheel button plate I'm putting together. This skill will be repeated several times for every sensor, and possibly every coil, for my build.

Equipment:
Tefzel 20 ga wire and wire ID kit
60/40 rosen core solder
ResinTech TR125 Potting Compound
Swivel base bench vice

I started out by cutting all the wire to length (Red - LED +, Black LED -, White with Black Stripe C, and White with Orange Stripe NO), stripping proper length of insulation, tinning the wire itself, tinned the connectors on the switch, and finally joining the wires to the proper terminals. Once a pull test was conducted I added an additional strain relief loop for each wire and tried to turn the loops inboard. Then cut up some plastic and used packing tape to create a form around the switch to hold the potting compound. Now that the switch was ready, I mixed up RT125, filled a syringe, and then injected the potting compound around the solder joints and filled up the form to cover the strain relief loops. Let set for 24 hours and bam, a fully functional switch ready to install.

I've got to source some moldable shrinkable boots or use a combination of Raychem SLC, ATUM, and DR-25 to finish this off nicely on the back side.

https://i.imgur.com/u5e752W.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3GbmgM6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WkLMPCe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5TFSov7.jpg

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

03-19-2020, 05:21 PM

Very cool! That should be darn-near indestructible!

Shoeless

03-19-2020, 07:42 PM

Very cool! That should be darn-near indestructible!

Rock solid, that’s the plan :cool:

jamesfr58

03-19-2020, 11:45 PM

Looks very good and as rock solid is an understatement, should hold together no matter how much vibration it gets....

Shoeless

03-20-2020, 08:28 AM

Looks very good and as rock solid is an understatement, should hold together no matter how much vibration it gets....

Hey James, you hit the nail on the head. The major benefit to going down this path is to withstand vibration. This approach is far superior than purchasing the plug and splicing the wiring. If I go through with my plan on the engine harness, the only non milspec connectors will be for the fuel injectors. The reason behind that is that the LS style injector plugs are USCAR and are designed to withstand a motorsports grade application.

crash

03-20-2020, 10:39 AM

Shoeless

03-20-2020, 11:06 AM

You really have to use the plugs that are there for all the sensors, and injectors. Again, Pro Wire USA carries almost all of the pins for the stock plugs so you don't have to try and reuse the ones you pull out. This gives a no splice wiring harness with proper pins that have not been stressed by reusing them.

https://prowireusa.com/

I'm thinking of potting and booting all the sensors to a pig tail with mil-spec connectors. Definitely a costly approach, but rock solid. Plus I'm enjoying the learning.

ProWire has been absolutely great to work with and thank you for recommending them a while back. I've made two orders with them so far and am very pleased with how quickly they pull my order and get it to my door step. Even the packaging is top notch, with most items sealed in individual plastic bags with proper labeling. On top of that, they have been the only place that will sell higher quality larger gauge wire by the foot.

crash

03-20-2020, 11:50 AM

I'm thinking of potting and booting all the sensors to a pig tail with mil-spec connectors. Definitely a costly approach, but rock solid. Plus I'm enjoying the learning.

ProWire has been absolutely great to work with and thank you for recommending them a while back. I've made two orders with them so far and am very pleased with how quickly they pull my order and get it to my door step. Even the packaging is top notch, with most items sealed in individual plastic bags with proper labeling. On top of that, they have been the only place that will sell higher quality larger gauge wire by the foot.

That's great to hear as I have used them for over 10 years and seen their line items grow and their business expand. I have always been very pleased with their service, but I do see a lot of new faces when I pop in there these days so it is good to know that the owner is keeping the quality service side going. Here is the specific page with the plug terminals. Some of these I have not found anywhere else, and, as you said, even if I did find them, I would have to buy quantity.

https://prowireusa.com/c-11-contacts-terminals.aspx

Shoeless

03-22-2020, 02:01 PM

Thank for the link crash, its great to have exceptional suppliers to work with on a project like this. My final product will only be as good as the input materials.

While my repainted axle is drying I decided to prep and check the four buttons I'll be using for the steering wheel. The first one was a test run to see if everything would work the way I anticipated. All was good so this cleared the way to proceed. Exactly as before, I cut all the wires to length, stripped them, and tinned them with solder in preparation to attach to the switches. I then tinned the terminals on the switches and went to town on soldering all the wires in place. Tested each switch at the end and I'm good to go with the messy part of potting each one individually.

https://i.imgur.com/IRBJf7M.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4tYPzpe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/T7dITjm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qM2hJyy.jpg

Shoeless

03-26-2020, 11:53 AM

Finished potting all four buttons. Next steps will be to layout what the back side of the steering wheel will look like. I'm hoping I can fit a nice Deutsch AS connector for this connection, may be a tight fit.

https://i.imgur.com/sD8RRFA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZgISvu3.jpg

HardRocker

03-26-2020, 04:52 PM

Shoeless

03-26-2020, 05:50 PM

Great work Shoeless. The great stock of tools you have make everything a magnitude easier. A tip on long runs of + - signal wiring like Canbus etc is to pull an arms length longer of wire than you think you’ll need, clamp the ends in your vice, and the other ends in your electric drill. Walk back to pick up the slack and then twist away (for “twisted pair” noise rejection) and then trim the ends. Also get an armful of plastic cable wrap at Harbor Freight! Also those cheap “helping hands” stands with the alligator clips make holding all your soldering work easier still.

Thank you for the kind words HardRocker and you make some excellent points, enough so its worth going into some more detail. High quality proper tools definitely go with out saying. When you are creating a mil-spec harness there really is no room to cheap out, although I have found some good budget tools that I will be trying along the way. One specific example of this is the tool I will use to crimp the pins on my Molex MX123 connectors (those identical to the LS computers as Shane pointed out to me in an earlier post). The recommended tool is a Molex 63811-4200 that retails for around $360, while the Molex 63811-1000 will do the same crimp but sells for about $50. If I was going to build more than one of these, I could likely justify the $360 pair, but I'm only building my own right now so I'll try the $50 pair on some test wire first.

CAN Bus cable is another great topic to discuss. You are absolutely right on pulling more wire off the spool before you twist and then cut to length. Another approach is twist a really long run and wrap it around a spool for later so you can cut off as much as you need, when you need it. Now on to the question of how many twists per lay length is ideal. Well, it varies by the diameter of wire you are going to use, although it is a broad range that easily overlaps for different wire diameter size. You should target a lay length of between 8-16 times the diameter of the wire, and lay length is the distance down the length of the wire as it makes one revolution. When you go to actually twist it with a drill, to help it from fraying apart and relieve a little tension, you can actually over twist it and then back the drill the other way to untwist it a little until you get the proper lay length. This will give you a very nice and clean CAN bus network that will work as intended.

Oh yea, and you mine as well grab a bag of about 1,000 small zip ties to us for your entire harness building project as they will be used as a consumable item throughout the whole project :cool:

jamesfr58

03-29-2020, 02:20 PM

I bet I have gone through a 1000 wire ties, use them to hold ting in place and cut off later as well as final position and to cleans up wiring. They do come in really handy when build by yourself and you need to hold thing in place temporarily. Have them in all different sizes and would not have done some of the thing I have done without them or a second pair of hands...

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

03-30-2020, 08:26 AM

Same here....the tiny 4" cable ties....I use a TON of those.....most of them being temporary, only to be cut off and discarded.

Shoeless

04-01-2020, 03:12 PM

Got a new toy today in the mail. This label maker will print directly on heat shrink tubing and will be used to identify the branches on the engine wiring harness as well as help me label all the other wiring in the GTM to keep it all nice and neat. Love me some new toys :cool:

https://i.imgur.com/onqgskw.jpg

crash

04-01-2020, 04:29 PM

HardRocker

04-01-2020, 04:57 PM

Now on to the question of how many twists per lay length is ideal. Well, it varies by the diameter of wire you are going to use, although it is a broad range that easily overlaps for different wire diameter size. You should target a lay length of between 8-16 times the diameter of the wire, and lay length is the distance down the length of the wire as it makes one revolution. When you go to actually twist it with a drill, to help it from fraying apart and relieve a little tension, you can actually over twist it and then back the drill the other way to untwist it a little until you get the proper lay length. This will give you a very nice and clean CAN bus network that will work as intended.

Indeed, especially for high RF environments. These days for car stuff I usually go with what looks correct having pulled many spools of twisted pair back in the day.

btw, that labler is super cool. And Crash, nice to know about the heat shrink you have, I'll take a look.

Shoeless

04-01-2020, 05:01 PM

Just a heads up...we make the heat shrink with the label on it, put it in place, shrink it down, then add a protective cover of clear heat shrink so the lettering can never be rubbed off. It just makes the label that much more durable.

Absolutely. Slide a piece of Raychem RT-375 (Clear Heat Shrink) over the label and shrink that down for a very durable label.

beeman

04-02-2020, 09:41 AM

That's pretty cool! And price is not bad. Too late for this project, but may have to grab one for the next build!

jamesfr58

04-02-2020, 12:11 PM

I should have done the same thing, I used a normal label printer and wrapped it around the wires but the method you used is much better. Thanks for posting your methods and travel into the electronic wiring world. Learning new things is always good, even though it is to late for my current build as beeman stated still good to know for the next one....

Shoeless

04-02-2020, 02:07 PM

This unit is very reasonably priced for its functionality.

I've got it charged up (came with a rechargeable battery and charger plug) and started to familiarize myself with the settings. It will print on 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" diameter tape and if I remember correctly, the roles of heat shrink tubes are a 2:1 shrink ratio. I've got some cartridges of 1/4" that will hopefully be delivered tomorrow and I'll throw up a little example of what a finished product will look like.

crash

04-03-2020, 11:27 AM

And Crash, nice to know about the heat shrink you have, I'll take a look.

We actually don't sell the heat shrink. I was just relating what we do on our harnesses. Don't mean to sound like a broken record, or a paid pitch man, but we get our supplies from www.prowireusa.com.

Shoeless

04-03-2020, 01:21 PM

Hey guys,

Crash is right, I have found prowire to beat most prices I have found on Deutsch AS (Auto Sports) connectors and several other products that are required to build this level of harness.

I got some of the heat shrink tubing in so I wanted to run a few tests and see what would work or not. My goal was to mimic the steering wheel button switches that I'll be cleaning up nicely and connecting with a Deutsch AS connector to the clock spring beeman hooked me up with.

On a side note, I only need 11 wires, but the closest Deutsch AS connector I could find is a 19 position 20 ga plug/receptacle combo. There may be other AS level plugs out there, but then you have to think of a whole suite of tools just to use them. So I may just stick with the 20 ga connectors I'll be using in nearly every area of the engine harness to keep tooling costs low.

Materials Used:
- Heat Gun
- 4 x sections of 20 GA Tefzel wire
- DR-25 Heat Shrink Tubing (Note US version has yellow lettering and UK version has white lettering) There is no difference, and I got a killer deal on the UK version so that's what I got.
- Label Maker w/ 1/4" Dia. shrink tubing
- Raychem RT-375 Clear Heatshrink

1. First measure the cross section of the bundle of wires you are looking to put heat shrink on (4 x 20ga Tefzel wires is ~ .100") and then choose which size DR-25 is appropriate.
2. DR-25 has a 2:1 shrink ratio and you want to chose the diameter that will tightly grip the bundle after being recovered. The closest that is available that I have is 1/4", so I'll have to pick up some 1/8" or 3/16" for when I do this for real on the switches.
3. I recovered the DR-25 onto the bundle of 4 wires. Note DR-25 has a minimum full recovering temperature of 347 deg F so you want to choose a temp just over that to help it recover nicely. The Dewalt heat gun is perfect as you can choose temps in 50 increments up to 500 deg F. so I chose 400 deg F.
4. Then I tested out 3 of the smallest font sizes on the new Rhino 5200 (XXS, XS, and S). Worth noting is that the Rhino 5200, as well as most other label makers, will leave a good bit of "waste" tubing that you have to trim back. If you can print out a whole bunch of labels with 3-4 spaces between them, you will save more of the ribbon tubing.

I ran into issues here with the 1/4" labeled shrink tubing being too small to slide over my recovered DR-25, so in order to continue with my demo I chose to install the test strips onto a piece of 12 GA Tefzel. This will be perfectly representative of how I will use this to label all other connections on the car, so not all is lost.

5. I then recovered the labels over the 12 ga Tefzel wire with the largest in the center, which I think it what I would go with on this size. Worth noting is that you will want to pick a font size that will work for every situation so you have only one font size throughout the whole car just to look more sharp.
6. Then chose the smallest size of Raychem RT-375 that I could slide over the label and recovered that with the heat gun. This clear heat shrink is what crash mentioned earlier. RT-375 is also a 2:1 shrink ratio and recovered nicely with 400 deg F.

We now have a representative sample of what a finished product will look like.

https://i.imgur.com/LOK7Sc4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6tNJR9t.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hv95K6H.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/X3xbY2Z.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TPBKHfS.jpg

beeman

04-03-2020, 02:17 PM

That's REALLY cool

Shoeless

04-04-2020, 07:24 AM

That's REALLY cool

Thanks Dave!!! This is a pretty slick way ID your wires :cool:

jamesfr58

04-04-2020, 09:38 AM

Sean, that looks really good and since you can print on shrink tubing will stay on wires better than the way I did it. I had a brother label maker and printed labels but can only flag the label on the wiring. But it did kinda work but they can move sometimes. Don't need it on this build as all wiring done but would sure use your method if building another car.

Shoeless

04-04-2020, 10:44 AM

Thanks James!! This approach will give me a very tidy and long lasting label that will stay put for the long run.

I’ll be ordering up more sizes here soon so I can dial in the perfect size for my steering wheel button plate. This thing is going to turn out awesome!!!!

Shoeless

04-19-2020, 06:25 PM

I spent some more time working on the steering wheel button plate over the weekend. This could either fall in my build post or here on the wiring post, I figured I would post here.

I had to find either a shrink moldable boot that would fit the 4 momentary push buttons or a combination of the heat shrink I had on hand. After a number of samples on a scrap button, I landed on a combination of 2 sizes of Raychem ATUM. This is a 4:1 heat shrinkable tubing that is glue lined and would be appropriate to seal everything up nicely. I started with the DR-25 tubing on the wiring and then worked towards the switches with two different sizes of the ATUM.

https://i.imgur.com/eOzl653.jpg

I had to then lay out where the wiring would be routed around the Momo adapter. This actually had to be done before the above so I could use the proper length of DR-25 on the wiring itself. Then had to think a few steps ahead of where the last junction would be before feeding into the Deutsch AS connector.

https://i.imgur.com/dZoA9z8.jpg

Then worked on bundling, splicing, and sheathing the wires for the 12 position dial switches. This was a PITA as I had to move all the heat shrink to one side, splice the wires, and then shrink the Raychem SCL over each of the spliced joints. Once all the joints were covered I slid one last piece of SCL over all the splices to seal them up perfectly. Add a zip tie to hold the two branches that come out to the right of the SCL and the joint is now properly strain relieved.

https://i.imgur.com/vf68bLB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wpCR6HV.jpg

I'm now to the point that I can trim down all the wiring, install the last pieces of heat shrink and install the pins. I checked my tooling and damn if I didn't pick up the wrong positioner for the AF8 crimp tool. I made a call to ProWire as it said it was out of stock and glad I did. They are putting an order together and hadn't added these positioners to their order. They should have one in stock for me in about a week so the rest of this will have to wait. In the meantime, I did a final fit check on the Momo adapter and steering wheel and then performed a continuity check on all the circuits.

All told there is a total of 22 wires that are spliced down to 11 to go through the clock spring that beeman hooked me up with.

It's coming together nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/iwhipnk.jpg

beeman

04-19-2020, 07:25 PM

That's the coolest steering wheel I've ever seen on these forums. It puts a lot of Ferrari wheels to shame.

Shoeless

04-20-2020, 09:22 AM

That's the coolest steering wheel I've ever seen on these forums. It puts a lot of Ferrari wheels to shame.

Thanks for the compliments and kind words!!! I put a ton of thought and effort into this and glad it turning out the way I saw it in my head months ago when I first started.

crash

04-20-2020, 09:57 AM

I know it's a little late now, but there are 90 degree boots available...

https://prowireusa.com/c-73-222d.aspx

I would have thought you would have seen these? Any reason you did not go with these?

Shoeless

04-20-2020, 10:32 AM

I know it's a little late now, but there are 90 degree boots available...

https://prowireusa.com/c-73-222d.aspx

I would have thought you would have seen these? Any reason you did not go with these?

Hey crash,

I reviewed those as well as the 222D921 and the 222K series boots. Since my momentary buttons were so long, not the typical steering wheel button plate buttons, I didn't like the "P" measurement for any of the offerings. Also each of these boots has a lip that would need to be trimmed off as there is no groove on my switches. That part is doable, just didn't like the length of the small opening leg. Looking back at my pics you can see as soon as the wires exit the back of the switch they loop almost 180 deg back toward the CF plate. Any of the shrink moldable boots I looked at just had a leg that was too long for my liking. Could I have trimmed the long leg of the 222K921 to make it work or trimmed the "J0" length on the 222K or the 222D you shared? Sure, but I would still have to add a piece of ATUM or SCL to cover the potted area of the momentary switches for a nice look. My approach just happened to work out for me and achieve the look and sealing I was going for.

crash

04-20-2020, 10:41 AM

Shoeless

04-20-2020, 10:47 AM

I agree that what you did looks pretty good. I think I might have gone with the 90 degree boots for the rotary switches though...except they are FREAKING EXPENSIVE! I thought maybe that's why you didn't use them. It's why I didn't use them when building our steering wheels.

LOL that is a great point, this whole venture it STUPID EXPENSIVE!!!! I can hardly believe how much it cost me to get Deutsch AS connectors for my whole suite of engine sensors and coils. But I got some invention money from work for 6 patents I filed last year, so that covered the expense of all the connectors. In the end, I would not recommend this approach for many people. For myself, I simply love the idea of learning something new and I like the idea of building a world class engine harness. It will be a serious work of art when completed.

crash

04-20-2020, 11:21 AM

This is one of the things I think most people do not understand about when one steps up to a racing or motorsports environment. The conditions can be brutal. Whether it is heat or water intrusion with wiring, or durability with oil lines, or just flat out stress on suspension components, most items need to be either custom made, OEM improved, or brought in from the aircraft/aerospace lines, and that gets expensive very quickly. Just to run the AN lines throughout a race car runs in the $10,000 neighborhood. Wiring? Easily $5k. Electronics? $10-15K. Point is, sometimes it is easy to get into the mindset of "eah, what's another $100 on boots for the steering wheel". Do that 100 times, which can easily happen during a build, and it gets into real money real quick.

Shoeless

04-20-2020, 12:10 PM

That's the TRUTH!!!

jamesfr58

04-21-2020, 12:38 AM

Agree, does not take long and you have a lot of cash in the upgrading parts. But worth it when build your master piece or at least I keep convincing myself of that....... makes those expensive PO's easier to swallow ! :rolleyes:

Shoeless

05-05-2020, 07:31 PM

So i've gotten in a couple big orders of stuff to start building my harness for the engine, but the first step for me is to create pig tails for all the sensors and coils. So for the mean time, I'm going to set the steering wheel aside. When I get a few parts potted and RT125 drying, I'm sure I'll pick it up and finish it off. Plus I want to get some more practice on shrinking the large Raychem boots. There is a technique and I need some practice to not screw it up.

So I'd like to share the steps of installing a Deutsch Auto-Sports connector to a sensor, specifically the Cam sensor. To start out with I've already soldered and potted 3 conductor shielded wire to the Cam sensor. Normally I would put a piece of Raychem SCL or ATUM over the sensor and potted area to add strain relief, but the flange of the sensor would not allow it.

Here are most of the things I used today for the job.

https://i.imgur.com/MqhEsg0.jpg

The first step is to remove the casing on the shielded cable to expose the shielding. From here you trim back all but about .250" of the shielding in order to use a solder splice to connect a separate conductor in order to pass the shielding through the connector.

https://i.imgur.com/rfcdfIp.jpg

Once the shielding is slide back over the insulator of the wiring, slide the solder splice over the shielding, insert the extra conductor, and apply about 950 deg F to the solder splice. Each splice has a ring of solder that has a red coloring on it and once the red is all gone, the solder is done melting.

https://i.imgur.com/SvLliAi.jpg

Each of the four wires are now stripped, socket installed, and crimped in place. In addition you add a loop for strain relief.

https://i.imgur.com/wuQ1nUu.jpg

At this point you can now use the insertion tool to install each conductor. In this particular free socket, there are 6 positions for 20 ga wire and I'm using four. In order to fully sealy this connector, you still install the sockets in the two blank position, and then install a red plug behind it. You can see one of the two in this pic.

https://i.imgur.com/5hyhbgR.jpg

In order to protect the wire and make this serviceable later down the road, just in case, you add some Kapton tape over the wires and a small portion of the socket. Also notice I had to put a piece of Raychem SCL to increase the diameter of the wire so the small end of the shrink moldable boot would seal against it. Note the fact that the shrink boot is much larger in its unrecovered state, so I don't have to install it over the wire before intalling the socket.

https://i.imgur.com/dwpZRUc.jpg

Before shrinking the boot, you lay down a small bead of Resintech RT125 in the grove of the Socket. Then working with the heat gun applying even heat to shrink the end over the Socket. Then lay down a bead of RT125 on the other end and shrink down that side of the boot.

https://i.imgur.com/BWXKyA4.jpg

Shoeless

05-05-2020, 07:31 PM

Now we have a perfectly sealed, fully rigid pig tail end for the Cam sensor.

https://i.imgur.com/Ee48hsz.jpg

Finally I can throw it back on the engine and reinstall the water pump, hopefully for the last time.

https://i.imgur.com/6HpLXyd.jpg

This is now set up perfectly for a 90 deg boot to be on the harness side to plug right into the Cam sensor.

https://i.imgur.com/z18OIer.jpg

beeman

05-05-2020, 09:15 PM

Nice write up, fun to learn about that high end stuff. I can't believe the boot shrank that much, definitely not consumer level stuff...

Shoeless

05-06-2020, 10:26 AM

Nice write up, fun to learn about that high end stuff. I can't believe the boot shrank that much, definitely not consumer level stuff...

Thanks Dave!!! I'm really enjoying this process of creating a high end wiring harness and extending it to each sensor. Pretty wild on that shrink moldable boot, right? There is definitely a technique on shrinking them properly and I hope to get better as I do more, but this first one turned out pretty nice. One more thing to add is this boot (PN: 202K132) can actually be trimmed back to the next moldable lip. There are two lips on this boot and I didn't realize the final length as the data sheet was a little ambiguous. On my next one, I'll try to trim the boot back to the next lip, as I don't need it this long to cover the wires underneath.

crash

05-06-2020, 04:57 PM

Shoeless

05-06-2020, 06:03 PM

Did you stripe your wires or did you buy them striped? If you striped them, what product did you use? I have used a Sharpie based product previously and it didn't work well. The Tefzel sheathing caused it to not stay on/dry.

I’ve picked up several rolls of the 20 ga Tefzel for the whole harness, as well as several other 10-20 foot sections of various gauges for the power distribution side.

I’m using the Ergo Elite (grey handle strippers in the first pic on the right) with the wire stop to strip my smaller gauge Tefzel and an Ideal Stripmaster for 10, 12, and 14 ga wire. On the Ergo Elite with the wire stop you can do test pieces and set it to the perfect strip length for the pins and sockets for the AS connectors.

Here the actual link to the kit I picked up. Pro tip, if you can wait till Black Friday, they do a once a year big sale. There were some exclusions last year, but that’s when I picked this kit up.

https://racespeconline.com/collections/bf2020-race-spec-tooling-bundles/products/race-spec-experienced-tooling-bundle

crash

05-08-2020, 09:59 AM

Um….I was asking about STRIPEING not stripping. Trust me, I know much about strippers! :)

Shoeless

05-08-2020, 10:44 AM

Um….I was asking about STRIPEING not stripping. Trust me, I know much about strippers! :)

HAHA my bad, I figured you did, shared anyways. STRIPEING wise I guess you are asking about the white/blue, white/orange from the shielded wire I used on this sensor. These came striped from Prowire.

Have you tried something like the following Ident. Kit with heat shrink colored rings? I've done a few wires so far, the ones on the steering wheel button plate (Bottom of last pic in Post #57). I've found you better shrink them with enough heat or they can slide off.

My main engine harness will only have 5 colors and mostly it will be white with these ID rings so I can keep track of the wires.

https://racespeconline.com/products/race-spec-mini-ident-kit?_pos=18&_sid=0732a3677&_ss=r&variant=30409669761

crash

05-08-2020, 11:11 AM

Good to know about the already striped stuff from ProWire. The last time I bought Tefzel it was from Aircraft Spruce in bulk on sale and all they had was white. I also bought their suggested striping kit with the Sharpie method, but I was not happy with that. Guess I'll have to go talk to Nick.

Shoeless

05-14-2020, 02:03 PM

Nothing too earth shattering to share, but I finished up the 2 x knock sensor pig tails. Probably a bunch of different ways to do this to minimize the sealed joints, but this is what I came up with for what I had on hand. On the knock sensor side I took a razor and cut off the alignment and lock features for the male plug that would normally attach here and then sanded down to scuff up the surface for the Raychem SCL to adhere to. I used a couple smaller diameter pieces as its a 3:1 shrink rate to ensure I would have a nice sealed joint. It also spreads out the load from the wire to the knock sensor body. Again, probably a better more expensive solution, but this is going to work for me. Similar on the boot side. The smaller version of the boots I used on the Cam sensor above were used here for the 3 position Deutsch AS connector. Add a little SCL and this is a perfect setup for me.

Next will probably be the Crank sensor. I may make a longer pig tail as this is hidden up behind the starter and hard for me to access since I put in the additional heat shield. Probably target the length to meet up next to the knock sensor plug and ultimately the main wiring harness.

https://i.imgur.com/WtQYTK6.jpg

Shoeless

05-22-2020, 03:06 PM

It was a slow work day with a good bit of the office furloughed, so I broke out some wire and did some test branches on concentric twisting. The idea was a build a few sections to see how they lay would look, how many circuits I could get in one branch, and just get some practice.

The idea is that you start a core that you then twist in alternating directions subsequent layers to give a very flexible compact harness at the end of the day. the down side is this approach is eating up a ton of time with all the documentation required to get it right, but in the end this will be bad a$$.

There is a general rule of thumb that you don't want more the 5 "cables" in the core, so I tried a core of 1 x 3 wire shielded cable followed by layer one of 1 x twisted pair CAN, 4 x 2 wire shielded cable, and 1 x 3 wire shielded cable, all 20 ga. The second layer consisted of 26 x 20 ga wires and this is where I stopped. From here the next layer would have taken 32 x 20 ga wires, but I have 41 wires remaining and would drive another layer of 38 wires just to take up the 9 wires I have left. I would then be left with 29 filler wires just to round out that last layer. Not idea, so its time to take it all apart and try another approach.

https://i.imgur.com/uUCkxR7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HYxYqOw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Y5daOsj.jpg

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

05-22-2020, 03:27 PM

Holy Sh*t.......I have a lot of patience......but that ^^^^ would be pushing it. I think I'd need a lot of beer.

Shoeless

05-22-2020, 03:38 PM

Holy Sh*t.......I have a lot of patience......but that ^^^^ would be pushing it. I think I'd need a lot of beer.

HAHA Some days I question my decision to learn this approach and spending all the time and money doing it, but I am really enjoying learning the process and can't wait to get to the point of starting to build the real harness. For now its just test after test until I get the branches planned out properly.

What's really screwing with my plan is items like my throttle body that connect to the ECU through both of the two master connections. This is leading me down the path of needing to combine approximately 130 wires into one branch right after coming out of the ECU. It will be one hell of a branch point at the very first part of the harness, so I need to get it right.

jamesfr58

05-22-2020, 04:43 PM

Shoeless

05-22-2020, 06:05 PM

Shane is right you must have a lot of patience for sure, unbelievable, it looks fantastic, know I did not do that good a job. Keep up the post and work it is fascinating to see your progress and how to build a professional wire harness.

Thanks James!!! I'd like to think I have some level of patience, but I think my wife would argue opposite that LOL. I have lost plenty of sleep over thinking I have already missed a note somewhere or one circuit somewhere in my diagram. I have only started to scratch the surface of actually constructing this wiring harness (pig tails for the sensors mostly), but the amount of planning that goes into this is unbelievable. I'm sure it gets easier and faster the more you do this, but for me being my first time its quite time consuming.

beeman

05-26-2020, 11:13 AM

I may have missed it, which soldering technique are you using? I typically do the twist-solder-fold technique, have looked at the NASA technique. What do you prefer?

jamesfr58

05-26-2020, 11:52 AM

beeman

05-26-2020, 12:13 PM

I know how that goes, after making sure I had wire pulled for everything, well I don't, forgot to add the wires for day time driving lights (LED's) that are going into the headlights. Since I am working on them now it became apparent that I just forgot to pull these wire in when I took the headlight wire to the from of the car. Oh well, now I have some more wiring to pull and of course finish the headlight wiring when the hood is mounted.

For the DRLs, I used a single 5 pin relay for both the headlight low beams and DRLs. Hook your DRLs up to pin 87a (normally closed), your DRLs will come on when the relay gets powered up by your key or battery switch. When your relay gets power across the coil (when you flip on the headlight switch), you will get voltage (pin 87) to the headlight lamps and the DRLs will turn off. May save you running some wires...

129027

Shoeless

05-26-2020, 12:27 PM

I may have missed it, which soldering technique are you using? I typically do the twist-solder-fold technique, have looked at the NASA technique. What do you prefer?

Hey Beeman,

Are you referencing when I'm creating the pig tails for the sensors (soldering the wire to the actual metal lead in the sensor plug socket, similar to pic 1 and 3 of post 38) or soldering wires for general wire to wire connection? The only solder that is in a motorsports grade harness is in the pig tails or if I'm using a solder sleeve to connect the shielding sleeve on twisted shielded wire to a wire to then be able to pass it through an Auto Sports connector (pic 3 of post 77) or ground it to the ECU pin. For any wire to wire connections, I'll use closed barrel splices as seen in pic 2 of post 21.

Thanks for the tip on the DRL, I was scratching my head on how to get that to work.

I know how that goes, after making sure I had wire pulled for everything, well I don't, forgot to add the wires for day time driving lights (LED's) that are going into the headlights. Since I am working on them now it became apparent that I just forgot to pull these wire in when I took the headlight wire to the from of the car. Oh well, now I have some more wiring to pull and of course finish the headlight wiring when the hood is mounted.

I almost forgot DRL, thanks for the reminder.

Shoeless

05-26-2020, 12:58 PM

I know how that goes, after making sure I had wire pulled for everything, well I don't, forgot to add the wires for day time driving lights (LED's) that are going into the headlights. Since I am working on them now it became apparent that I just forgot to pull these wire in when I took the headlight wire to the from of the car. Oh well, now I have some more wiring to pull and of course finish the headlight wiring when the hood is mounted.

Hey James,

What DRLs are you going with? I just found these as a pretty slick kit. It looks like the function is either on or turn signal activated.

https://www.amazon.com/CARLITS-Flexible-Headlight-Waterproof-Decorative/dp/B07K7F7KRS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=BQLWE2DAPX8X&dchild=1&keywords=daytime+running+lights+led+strip&qid=1590515745&s=automotive&sprefix=daytime+running+li%2Cautomotive%2C172&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUEMwQ1ZKREZMM0JQJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDk3NDkzM0FEUVkzUzdZV0lWRCZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDg1NjQxMllKWTBCQzk1OU9FVyZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05 vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

beeman

05-26-2020, 01:01 PM

Ah, I see, so no end-to-end soldering, just crimp connectors with heat shrink overlay. What are pro's of doing that over soldering? Looks a lot quicker anyways, if you have the right crimper, I'm assuming splices are cheap but crimper is $$$.

https://i.imgur.com/s2on5RX.jpg

beeman

05-26-2020, 01:03 PM

Hey James,

What DRLs are you going with? I just found these as a pretty slick kit. It looks like the function is either on or turn signal activated.

https://www.amazon.com/CARLITS-Flexible-Headlight-Waterproof-Decorative/dp/B07K7F7KRS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=BQLWE2DAPX8X&dchild=1&keywords=daytime+running+lights+led+strip&qid=1590515745&s=automotive&sprefix=daytime+running+li%2Cautomotive%2C172&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUEMwQ1ZKREZMM0JQJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDk3NDkzM0FEUVkzUzdZV0lWRCZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDg1NjQxMllKWTBCQzk1OU9FVyZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05 vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Reviews look good for those until you click "show recent revews"..

https://i.imgur.com/PSeoX64.jpg

These guys have much better quality stuff, I'm using one of their switchbacks on my GTM. Typically 3 year warranty.
Cheap Chinese LEDs will have you ripping your headlights back apart, I didn't want that hassle.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/rgb-switchback/led-halos-strips-universal

Shoeless

05-26-2020, 02:02 PM

Beeman,

Thanks for the heads up on a better quality product out there for the DRL. I'll bookmark them in my BOM and refer back when I'm ready to purchase.

On the topic of closed barrel splices versus soldering for end to end connections, or any soldering for that matter, you are essentially taking a multi-strand wire and once soldered you are making it a single solid core solid wire. When you do this you are essentially making a flexible wire brittle as you have now taken away all the strain relief that comes with a multi strand wire. Over time the vibration in the car will cause the solder joint to fail where the closed barrel splice will survive.

When it comes to cost, those little closed barrel splices are pricy compared to other connection options out there. If purchased separately the Red size in the pic above are $2.00 each (depending where you get them). I picked up a large variety kit of splices for around $300, link below. This was a better start for me as I didn't know exactly how many and of what size I would need. You are spot on for the crimpers, expensive as all can be, but when done right its the best connection available. I think all told I spent about $400 for three crimpers to do everything from these mini-splices, to the larger Molex splices, and all the way up to 1/0 battery cable. I will say I think the investment is worth it, at least for me, being able to use the proper tooling to make large 1/0 battery cables and then switch up to splicing 5 x 20ga wires to 1 x 12 ga wire is an absolute pleasure.

https://racespeconline.com/collections/bf2020-race-spec-starter-kits/products/race-spec-splice-solder-sleeve-starter-kit

beeman

05-26-2020, 02:15 PM

crash

05-26-2020, 02:45 PM

Yep, solder is a no-no in wire looms. The only exception for me is in large(small gauge) wire for batteries and such. In those cases I use both crimping and some solder. The thinking is that because of the large size there is relatively low bending anyway, and the solder helps ensure the electrons are transferred from the inner copper out to the connector body with the least resistance possible. Generally speaking, connections of all types should be kept to a minimum and solder, IMHO, only used on really large cables that will see high amperage rates, and then crimping should be used as the primary fixer.

Can't say I haven't repaired a wire here and there though, and in doing so I fold the wires back on each other so they loop together and are in a straight line. Then I twist the exposed wires back on thelselves. Then solder. Then heat shrink. I splice so rarely that I do not own any of those splicing terminals.

jamesfr58

05-26-2020, 11:00 PM

Dave,

Thanks for the information on the DRL wiring and the relay reference. Never thought about using a relay since I am using the Infinity Box System but know I can add on into the the system even using the Infinity Box.

jamesfr58

05-26-2020, 11:06 PM

Sean,

We must think alike at times, I actually have a set of light as you describe above on order, not from the same company but same type of LED lights to use as DRL lights. They are white DRL and amber sequential turn signals. Going to check out Dave's relay idea but not sure I can make work with Infinity Box but as mentioned I know you can add relay to the system. I had another way to get the DRL to come on when the ignition was turned on but they would remain on even with the head lights until you turned the ignition off so the relay idea may be just the ticket.

Shoeless

07-03-2020, 11:12 AM

I figured it was time to finish up the wiring on the steering wheel button plate this morning.

The first step was to prep and install some Raychem ATUM over all the splice joints to clean it up a bit. Where the four branches come out of the top there is a zip tie for strain relieve and I filled inside the branch with ResinTech RT125 to totally seal things up.
https://i.imgur.com/bYrQyZy.jpg

Next it was time to cut to length, strip, and install the pins on the ends of the wire. This was then followed by inserting the pins into their appropriate position in the Deutsch AS Connector. You begin inserting the wires into the connector at the center and work your way outboard. Similarly strain relieve loops at the center start farther away from he connector and then work towards it as you get to the outside pins.
https://i.imgur.com/ADmQCJm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mhFEaPN.jpg

Followed by installing and shrinking down the 90 deg Raychem semi-rigid boot.

https://i.imgur.com/h9Wf0S8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8DM37Wh.jpg

Once the RT125 dries, she will be ready to install.

https://i.imgur.com/0gm8TdT.jpg

While the RT125 is drying, here is a final pic from a prior test fit up.

https://i.imgur.com/h21qE5d.jpg

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

07-03-2020, 02:28 PM

Very cool!! Definitely looks production!

Shoeless

07-04-2020, 09:23 AM

Very cool!! Definitely looks production!

Thanks Shane!!! I really enjoyed planning this out and building it. Now I’ve got to do the mating side on the steering column and clock spring.

jamesfr58

07-04-2020, 11:15 PM

Looks really great Sean very professional will look production as Shane said when you are done.

beeman

07-05-2020, 08:37 AM

Elegant and exotic

Shoeless

07-06-2020, 10:10 AM

Thank you James and Dave for the kind words. I'm really enjoying this new approach to wiring up my GTM and sharing it with the forum. I can't wait to start the process of the engine harness, which should be pretty soon as I have most of the mechanical items installed.

I built the pig tail that I'll attach to the clock spring yesterday and let the RT125 cure overnight before I did a test fit this morning. Everything looks as I planned it out and you can barely see the Deutsch connectors behind the steering wheel, so I'm pretty darn happy with how this is turning out. The only thing left is to cut a hole in the Momo adapter boot, pass the pig tail through it, and splice to the clock spring and I can check this item off as complete on my todo list.

https://i.imgur.com/gHBOKRr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HB4TJYA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ANznER7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oNS5ksf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/m2xp5Cs.jpg

jamesfr58

07-06-2020, 11:03 PM

Looking good.....

Shoeless

08-02-2020, 10:08 AM

I finished up the steering wheel installation and splicing all the wiring to the clock spring. Started out by cutting a little hole in the Momo adapter, fitting the pig tail I built inside, and then started splicing to the clock spring. All while double checking and marking off on my documentation when each circuit is completed.

https://i.imgur.com/5QGcYa2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NXZQiuX.jpg

Once everything was spliced it was time to put the Momo cover on and install the wheel for final fit checks. Heres a shot of the top and bottom of behind the plate and a final LED light check from the front. The Deutsch AS connector tucks up nicely behind the steering wheel and everything is secured with a couple zip ties for final strain relief.

https://i.imgur.com/sIBw6tg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Q21yKgJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OweqM50.jpg

Time to finally move on to creating a harness from scratch. I'll be starting with a smaller harness, specifically the chassis side of where the engine harness connects to as a practice run. I will use all the same steps on this harness as I would for the engine harness, so this will be good practice.

beeman

08-02-2020, 06:40 PM

Congrats on wrapping up the steering wheel plate!
What are you using for a fuse box?

jamesfr58

08-02-2020, 11:26 PM

Look real good a very nice installation, you have more patience than I have for sure. Great look !!

Shoeless

08-03-2020, 04:49 PM

Congrats on wrapping up the steering wheel plate!
What are you using for a fuse box?

Thanks Dave!!! I'll be using a GEP fusebox for the engine harness construction.

Look real good a very nice installation, you have more patience than I have for sure. Great look !!

Really appreciate it James!!! I wouldn't think I'm a patient person, but this wiring is sure humbling me LOL. Glad my final product here on the steering wheel button plate came out as I envisioned it in my head a number of months ago.

crash

09-08-2020, 04:21 PM

Shoeless

09-09-2020, 10:04 AM

Just a little update on Prowire... Nick finally got out of CA and moved the operation to Arizona. I don't blame him. Not real convenient for me as I used to "pop in" and grab what I needed, but I do understand not wanting to own a business or live in California. This state, politically, SUCKS! Now they are talking about trying to tax those that leave the state for a future 10 YEARS!!! These people are insane...but I digress.

Fortunately they have increased their offerings and have also stream lined their website.

Perfect timing. I was just reviewing/creating my build documentation for the chassis side engine harness interface and putting together another order for them.

I can't believe the BS that California is trying to pull these days. Absolutely insane!!!

Shoeless

09-13-2020, 03:51 PM

The time has come that I finally kick off building the chassis side harness that my engine harness will interface with. This will be great practice before I tackle the engine harness and will allow me to follow all the same steps I'll need to follow on the engine harness.

Here are the steps I'll be following and sharing along the way for building a professional motorsports harness.

Step 1: Spec and Circuit Design
Step 2: Layout, Branching, and Routing Design
Step 3: Documentation Detail and Concentric Layer Design
Step 4: Generating Construction Plan
Step 5: Follow the Construction Plan
Step 6: Connector Boot Prep and Labeling
Step 7: Terminal Crimping and Connector Installation
Step 8: Continuity Testing
Step 9: Transition and Connector Boot Recovery and Sealing
Step 10: Final Install

I've shared my Visio Pro Harness Construction document before and have used that and an xcel file to complete step 1. There have been several changes over the last month or two, but I think I finally have it all figured out and am ready to proceed. The excel file lists every circuit, wire color, wire size, connector type, boot part number, pins used,...literally everything needed to actually build each of these harnesses. I've use this to purchase every connector, pin, multiple spools or wire, tools,...nearly everything I'll need to complete the construction. I'm sure I'll need more supplies along the way, but I have enough to make myself dangerous :cool:

Step 2 is physically choosing the routing path for the harness throughout the car. You can do this by using small diameter rope as it will mimic the physical size of the harness and also has nearly the same bend radius. I actually did this part twice as I wasn't too confident on my first try. You essentially start at the most complex connector, in my case its a "bulkhead" connector that will interface with engine harness and then run the rope to the longest point of the harness. In my case its all the way up to the front of the car, into the driver's side cabin, and to the location of my CD-7 Race Dash. From there you can create several branch points along the main branch where you need breakouts for other sensor, actuators, or interfaces. I have items like all 4 wheel speed sensors, DBW pedal, Log button, CAN network interfaces, and a few more. Once I had this mock harness all in place in the car, I took about 20 photos so I know exactly how I routed it in the design phase and how it will be installed when completed. Here are a few pics.

This is the "bulkhead" connector, CAN interfaces, and 6 port CAN Hub

https://i.imgur.com/MPGlXZW.jpg

Followed by a couple pics by the drivers cockpit.

https://i.imgur.com/KpMucmv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ldj4mfg.jpg

Now I removed the mock harness, making sure all the branches stayed in place so that I could measure out of the car.

https://i.imgur.com/BvHJ1pa.jpg

The next step is to create a diagram for the whole harness with measurements of each branch. This will feed into the following steps when I start to prepare the wire for the harness construction. It's tempting to want to start cutting wires, but not yet, there is more planning work to do. If you look closely at the following diagram, I have two measurements for each branch. The physical measurement is in parenthesis and the length that I need to cut the wire is to the left of this number and is 20% more than the physical measurement. This is done to make up for the loss in the concentric twisting that will take place during the construction phase.

https://i.imgur.com/7bkrTVy.jpg

Shoeless

09-13-2020, 03:59 PM

I'm now mostly through Step 3 with completing the Documentation Detail and Concentric Layer Design. Starting at the "bulkhead" connector, going layer by layer, and documenting every detail for each branch of the process. If you have been following along, I have been building test branches that mimic this harness so I know what to plan for. This document has all the detail I need (what wires are on what layer, the function of that wire, twist direction, laced or not, diameter of DR-25 that will go over each branch, final diameters of each layer, ...damn near everything you need.

I've got a few things to clean up in this document before I move to the next, but I'm going to go ahead and start Step 4 Generating the Construction Plan.

https://i.imgur.com/p8DqQIo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ESOMOyI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7vuY6bP.jpg

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

09-14-2020, 08:23 AM

Wow....that is a mind-blowing amount of organization and preparation!

Shoeless

09-14-2020, 03:13 PM

Wow....that is a mind-blowing amount of organization and preparation!

You're tell me LOL. The amount of time I've dedicated to this is insane. When I first started taking the classes to learn this, they straight up said it will take 4x the amount of time when compared to creating a "club day" harness. I can attest, that is a no BS statement.

Just think, this is actually a fairly "easy" harness. The engine harness is going to be a MONSTER to do.

Shoeless

09-27-2020, 07:24 PM

I was super stoked this morning to get up early and officially kick off starting the chassis side wiring harness for the GTM, unfortunately I wouldn't make it very far. I found an old hobby table I had kept my hands on from my RC car days that I decided to use for a separate work station just for this project. Not ideal, but it will work. I got all my supplies lined up on the pool table edge, all my tools and splices on the left, and documentation to follow all printed out.

First step was to twist about 15 ft. of CAN communication wire that I will use on this harness and the engine harness. After twisting what I needed, I cut the length for the first segment of this core, installed the pins, and installed in the Deutsch AS connector. Note, you want to start working from the center of the connector out and your service loops should be further from the connected for the wires in the center of the connector. As a guide I cut out a silhouette of what the shrunken boot will be to make sure I keep everything behind the boot.

The next step was to build a sample of grounding two twisted pair cables to one ground wire using a Raychem Solder Sleeve and this is where my problems started. When you fully melt these solder in these sleeves, all the red coloring will disappear. As can be seen there is still some semblance of red and therefore not a complete soldered connection. I got the size on the connection done enough to hide behind the boot, but I've got a problem I need to figure out. Oddly I did a handful of samples, some would work, and then I go to my cut cables and try it and nope, the solder wouldn't flow. I obviously have an issue with my heat gun. Sure enough when I would crank it up to 1100 and then check the temp and was only reading about 750. These solder sleeves need about 900-950 so I need a replacement. I decided to step up to the Ideal 46-204 Heat Elite Plus Heat Gun, probably should have bought this heat gun to start with, but oh well. So everything is on hold til that comes in.

https://i.imgur.com/2RO9EUq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4WSFX2K.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/11YHRDg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ehrSs7t.jpg

Jay-rod427

09-28-2020, 12:01 PM

Personally I'd skip the solder sleeves, and do open barrel crimps with a short piece of shrink tubing. Solder just makes the wires stiff and brittle prone to cracking.

Shoeless

09-28-2020, 12:14 PM

Personally I'd skip the solder sleeves, and do open barrel crimps with a short piece of shrink tubing. Solder just makes the wires stiff and brittle prone to cracking.

Normally I would totally agree with you here on this, but there is really only 2 times that solder is used on a motorsports grade harness.

1. When you solder leads to a sensor or actuator and then pot with potting compound and make completely encapsulated.
2. Raychem Solder sleeves like these.

An open barrel crimp option you mention is more "club day" level harness construction. Plus, I'm trying to ground the shield on two twisted shielded cables with one ground lead to feed through the AS connector. Not to mention I get to buy a new tool that is designed for this level of construction with the controls and features on the heat gun, plus I love new tools :cool:

Jay-rod427

09-28-2020, 12:33 PM

#1 sure as there is no other choice.

#2 I work in aerospace communications, and solder is frowned upon whenever possible. My company specializes in eliminating solder sleeves and terminating shielding wires, but that's a whole other story. Even the academy recommends against them whenever possible. Mechanical crimp joint is proven over and over again when done properly to be superior to solder.

You could even go one step further and just crimp both the shield wires together directly into the contact for the AS connector if the contact is big enough since it's only
2 shield wires on this harness. You couldn't do this on say an AMP superseal ECU connector since the contact is inserted with the wire pressure, but on the AS connector the contact insertion tool can push the contact in to seat. Since the shield braided wires have no rigidity.

High quality reliable heat gun absolutely should be in the arsenal for ya! Hot enough to activate/shrink certain products, but controllable enough to not damage other things.

When you get to other areas you are going to have to utilize open/closed barrel splices. "motorsport" level or not. Say your ECU sensor 5v references. You'll have many 5v sensors that need this power feed, but limited outputs on the ecu. It is very common to split a single 5v ref output to 4-5 sensors. 1 wire in an open barrel crimp becomes 5 wires. Same with sensor grounds. Low current wires split very commonly.

Shoeless

09-28-2020, 01:14 PM

Very cool, who do you work for? I've been in Aerospace Manufacturing for the last 15 years and currently work at Pratt and Whitney in West Palm Beach FL.

I'll actually have 4 x twisted shielded pair cables in this side of the harness. My plan was to Raychem Solder Splice two together to one ground lead, repeat this for the other two cables, and then close barrel splice the two ground leads to one, and then pin in the 32 position AS connector. Unfortunately, all positions are taken up with my plan so I have to get all 4 shields into one 20 ga pin.

Most definitely will be using closed barrel splices for splicing Sensor Supply (+5V) and Sensor Ground signals throughout both this harness and the engine harness when I get there. Even with the AEM Infinity Series 7 ECU I've got there are limited pins for these as you noted.

Jay-rod427

09-28-2020, 02:27 PM

Way easier to closed, or open barrel splice all 4 at the same time into a single contact lead. Less bulk and clutter in the bundle. I work for a small company called Isodyne. EMI/RFI connector accessories. We make the rugged functional military versions of the knurled nut on the back of that AS connector. Our system shield drain wires are grounded through the backshell/connector bodies so a contact in the connector isn't needed/wasted.

Shoeless

09-28-2020, 03:10 PM

Very nice. One of our applications on our expendable turbojet platform (TJ150), which by the way is the only harness we build in house, drains the shield to the back shell.

KGTM

09-28-2020, 03:28 PM

Damn question, what are you sheiding from?
Most car sensor have large outputs and should not need shielding, the ground connection is more important than the shield.

Jay-rod427

09-28-2020, 04:07 PM

Damn question, what are you sheiding from?
Most car sensor have large outputs and should not need shielding, the ground connection is more important than the shield.

Pulse signals are very susceptible to interference. Any speed signal is a pulse based signal. Wheels sensors, driveshaft sensor, crank signal, cam sync, Wideband O2's even. Where the computer is processing VERY fine signal pulses at a very high rate outside noise making that signal dirty can cause issues. That's also why those wires are twisted pairs to keep the wire from causing noise from itself. The signal and feed being twisted cancels out the interference from itself. The worst offenders are magnetic pickup sensors as they read magnetic interference intentionally, and shielding reduces external magnetic interference. Modern Hall effect sensors are not as sensitive.

Those overshields also need grounded typically to the ECU otherwise that shielding which is basically a Faraday cage would build up static electricity to the point of high enough charge to discharge on the closest ground it can find. Helicopters for example buildup tremendous static electricity from the blades passing through the air. By grounding those shields to something they are in a constant state of discharging that charge instead of building it up. Shielded wires don't really carry any significant current, but they do need grounded to prevent static discharge spikes which can be hundreds of thousands of volts of electricity.

Very similar to old school "race spark plug wires" they were unshielded and would cause the interference heard through the radio.

KGTM

09-28-2020, 10:04 PM

Pulse signals are very susceptible to interference. Any speed signal is a pulse based signal. Wheels sensors, driveshaft sensor, crank signal, cam sync, Wideband O2's even. Where the computer is processing VERY fine signal pulses at a very high rate outside noise making that signal dirty can cause issues. That's also why those wires are twisted pairs to keep the wire from causing noise from itself. The signal and feed being twisted cancels out the interference from itself. The worst offenders are magnetic pickup sensors as they read magnetic interference intentionally, and shielding reduces external magnetic interference. Modern Hall effect sensors are not as sensitive.

Those overshields also need grounded typically to the ECU otherwise that shielding which is basically a Faraday cage would build up static electricity to the point of high enough charge to discharge on the closest ground it can find. Helicopters for example buildup tremendous static electricity from the blades passing through the air. By grounding those shields to something they are in a constant state of discharging that charge instead of building it up. Shielded wires don't really carry any significant current, but they do need grounded to prevent static discharge spikes which can be hundreds of thousands of volts of electricity.

Very similar to old school "race spark plug wires" they were unshielded and would cause the interference heard through the radio.

For most part any twisted pair is intended to be differential like the can bus or wheel sensor cam position sensor which has a very low signal level and even them have no shield as the connectors on all the hub is not designed for ground wire, hall sensor generally have no need for shields they also have higher voltage so less need, even today most spark plug wires that I know 0f do not have shield, but has higher resistance than the old just straight wire and this limits the current and lower the ground noise generated by sparks and less possible audio noise.

Aslo one has to be careful about shield and its termination, when grounded on both end large ground current could flow and that is not always good and if a main ground is removed very large current can go through these and burned them up as they are not intended for large current flow.

Mostafa

crash

09-29-2020, 10:38 AM

Jay-rod427

09-29-2020, 11:16 AM

Just a question here...wouldn't one want to keep the shield isolated from the chassis ground? Putting sensor shields through the shell doesn't make sense to me. Please explain why this won't cause interference issues?

The shielding serves zero purpose to the signal transmission of the wires inside it. The shielding simply protects those wires from outside interferrence. But as said it needs grounded, typically to an ECU pin, to keep static electricity from building up, and to give a place for the interference to go instead of into the wires inside it. And as was said it only gets grounded on one end. It has to go through the connector via a contact, or can be grounded to the shell itself with the right parts to continue it's grounding conduction all the way back to where it is grounded. Otherwise not grounding through the pass through connector would break it's continuity chain and the ungrounded portion would build up static charge.

Shielding works in two ways. 1 it physically rejects emi waves by bouncing them off, second it sends them to ground instead of penetrating the wires. Hence the need to ground it. Fuel injectors, and ignition coils are a common source of emi. Their inductive magnetic coils that activate them kick off a pulse of emi. This pulse if picked up by nearby signal wires can make the computer think it got a pulse from a legit source when it didn't.

I'm not sure 100% on the AEM infinity, but most ECU's have a dedicated shielding ground pin position. Holley Dominator, HP EFI, and terminator it's J1 A14.

crash

09-29-2020, 11:30 AM

The shielding serves zero purpose to the signal transmission of the wires inside it. The shielding simply protects those wires from outside interferrence. But as said it needs grounded, typically to an ECU pin, to keep static electricity from building up. And as was said it only gets grounded on one end. It has to go through the connector via a contact, or can be grounded to the shell itself with the right parts to continue it's grounding conduction all the way back to where it is grounded. Otherwise not grounding through the pass through connector would break it's continuity chain and the ungrounded portion would build up static charge.

I'm not sure 100% on the AEM infinity, but most ECU's have a dedicated shielding ground pin position. Holley Dominator, HP EFI, and terminator it's J1 A14.

Yes, so our practice is to keep the shield isolated and to use a pin through the connector and ground at the ECU via the dedicated pin. I am still unclear why using the shell would be a good choice as, in our cars anyway, the plug is usually used in an aluminum bulkhead that is riveted to the chassis and therefore the shield would be exposed to the rather "dirty" ground of the vehicle instead of the filtered ground of the ECU. Again, this is just how we have always done it and I am curious as to how this might be done appropriately via the shell.

Jay-rod427

09-29-2020, 12:17 PM

Yes, so our practice is to keep the shield isolated and to use a pin through the connector and ground at the ECU via the dedicated pin. I am still unclear why using the shell would be a good choice as, in our cars anyway, the plug is usually used in an aluminum bulkhead that is riveted to the chassis and therefore the shield would be exposed to the rather "dirty" ground of the vehicle instead of the filtered ground of the ECU. Again, this is just how we have always done it and I am curious as to how this might be done appropriately via the shell.

The concept of using the shell doesn't really apply here. In aerospace there is no chassis grounds so it's a dead path except through the mating connector and back to the shielding on the other side back to the source component. Aerospace doesn't use chassis grounds for components as they are a nightmare. Everything has dedicated grounds ran all the way to the power source.

Sorry to muck up this thread with shell grounding the shields. OP is doing it beautifully except for said solder sleeves imo.

Personally I don't use chassis grounds on something built from the ground up exactly as you said you end up with dirty grounds, and the potential for ground loops. I just finished a race car with ALL grounds ran to the ground post. Upon first startup a huge noticeably faster cleaner starter turning over a 585" BBC.

jamesfr58

09-29-2020, 04:24 PM

Jay-rod427

I set my ground up as you spelled out in the last paragraph. I have a lead from battery to a ground block and all ground go back to the ground block. Was very good information about grounding and dirty grounds. Always a pleasure to read and learn an few new things from time to time..

Shoeless

09-29-2020, 04:45 PM

No worries going off on a tangent with other aspects of wiring. I actually enjoy the fact that a post I started has spurred so much conversation and side discussions. That’s why we are here, to share our collective knowledge and help each other build better cars.

KGTM

09-29-2020, 11:49 PM

In general there are several reason for ground and good ground and shields

1. All high speed signals are shield for most part due to impedance requirements, these are signals above 100 Mhz, 50 ohm, 80 ohm 90 ohm and so on
2. Very low level signals like audio inputs like RCA, these are generally only few volts max and very large dynamic range may be 100db, so even uv changes will be noticed as noise or click especially when volume is at high level
3. Stops emission from signals carried on the wires and if not done well it will make thing worse and not better.]
4. Very high impedance input, may be above 100k or so with low level signals
4. if grounded on both end this only works well is sides is isolated which generally is not in car wirings, on must avoid the shield carrying load current
5. Most sensor today are active and not like the old day like a single wire temperature sensor (they used more current than new one) , hence 3 wire, power ( 5V) ground and active output.

Crash, Star grounding is always a good just may add a lot to wiring, chassis is very low resistance and for most grounds connections and should be good enough, but for sensors is best to go to device ground that receives the sensor input or make differential connections if possible.

I like to say I am no arguing here, I want to make sure I did not miss something in my wiring as well as I have no shielding on all my body control stuff, what crate ECU does I do not know, but some that I have cut and shortened did not have any shield.

Mostafa

Alan_C

09-30-2020, 12:51 AM

Just found your thread, quite an undertaking. I am putting a 2nd Gen Coyote into a 70 Mach 1. To keep engine compartment clean, I have mounted the PCM in the front PS fender well. Also moving the power distribution box to the interior requiring modifying the controls pack harness and adding connectors to split it. My job is trivial compared to yours. I look forward to going through your thread step by step.

Subscribed!

Shoeless

09-30-2020, 07:24 AM

Just found your thread, quite a undertaking. I am putting a 2nd Gen Coyote into a 70 Mach 1. To keep engine compartment clean, I have mounted the PCM in the front PS fender well. Also moving the power distribution box to the interior requiring modifying the controls pack harness and adding connectors to split it. My job is trivial compared to yours. I look forward to going through your thread step by step.

Subscribed!

Welcome aboard Alan!! This is definitely quite the undertaking, but when complete I will have two harnesses (Chassis and Engine) that will be nothing short of a work of art.

Shoeless

10-01-2020, 07:44 PM

Got in the new heat gun and boy did that make a difference. Here is what the soldier sleeves look like when properly melted/recovered. Probably could have used just a tad bit more heat to make sure all the red indicator is gone.

https://i.imgur.com/6cBb3xE.jpg

Shoeless

10-03-2020, 08:05 PM

After playing with the carbon fiber tubing this morning, I decided to spend some time on the chassis harness. Now that the solder splices are good to go, I needed to splice the two ground leads to one and then install a socket before installing in the Deutsch AS connector. Here you can see I have a yellow band closed barrel splice which is good for CMA of 2350-6755, these are all 20 ga wire, which have a CMA 1006 each and I'm splicing 3, so this is perfect. After the splice is complete, I cover it with a piece of Raychem SCL to seal it up.

https://i.imgur.com/9cdrTQd.jpg

Now that the ground shield is good to go, I've got to strip and install the sockets on all the twisted shielded cables.

https://i.imgur.com/wJul2Vv.jpg

After installing all the sockets in their respective locations, service loops are installed, and a check to make sure this will all fit behind the shrink moldable boot. Note again I'm working from the center of the connector out and these service loops will be further away from the connector. As I work around the connector, the service loops will get closure to the connector.

https://i.imgur.com/UEwdM4q.jpg

Now its time to do some twisting of Layer 1 (all the shielded cables) around the Core of CAN twisted cable from the connector to the first branch point. After twisting this layer, I use kevlar lace to hold it all in place. I've also got to introduce some of the other branches into the first branch point per the build plan. From here, I did a test fit in the car and noticed I was a bit off on one branch point, so I got to do a portion of this all over again LOL. Its better to find and set the branch point locations here, as you will see if there are any changes required down the road, its VERY time consuming to take this harness all apart and redo it.

https://i.imgur.com/hUT6k9N.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dNgr62p.jpg

Shoeless

10-04-2020, 05:09 PM

Hey guys,

I took some time today and finished the first branch of the chassis harness build. This one 32 pin plug will interface the engine harness and computer to the chassis and has the following functions, all tightly bundled in a 0.450" cross section.

Speed Sensors for all four corners
ECU Flash for programming
Sensor Grounds
Sensor Powers
Tractions Control Sensitivity Dial on the Steering Wheel
Launch Control RPM Dial on the Steering Wheel
Pedal
Vintage Air Full Throttle Switch (can program at the ECU to what ever RPM I want)
Clutch Digital Switch (not used)
3 Step Launch Control Switch (not used)
Log Enable
Low and High Fan Signal as the ECU will control temps and settings and ground to the InfinityBox
CAN Bus Network for Digital Race Dash
Fuel Level to Race Dash
Tach Signal for Knock Detection Equipment while tuning (normally you have to pick up an injector signal at the engine)
One Open
4 Filler Wires to finish off a nice concentrically twisted pattern with the proper lay length.

https://i.imgur.com/oik72bA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8jIgKfn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2YHtBov.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hz5mnHD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4VgVQFC.jpg

Jay-rod427

10-05-2020, 09:36 AM

Looking good!

crash

10-05-2020, 10:48 AM

Shoeless

10-05-2020, 11:18 AM

I know you might not want to hear this at this point and I probably should have spoken up earlier, but it is my practice to run the harness unfinished as far as bundling and heat shrinking at least a couple of hours to make sure all desired components are covered. In other words, no matter how careful I am in planning, invariably there are additions that I make once I start using the vehicle. If you package the harness all up before testing the car...well you are either cutting the harness back apart or remaking the harness again. Neither option is all that attractive.

This is a good point and likely something I may do for the engine harness side of things. I can say, before I shrink branch points and boots for every sensor, I will be trying to turn the engine over. The AEM Infinity ECU will give me a "likelihood of ignition" percentage as I crank it. It is essentially checking to see if the Cam and Crank are in sync and will tell me if I am good to go.

I decided to do this harness first as sort of a practice run on checking all my documentation, build plan, and actual execution of the build plan. I found a situation about 9:00 last night that I had one of the branches right after this branch point, that I introduced the wrong CAN Switched Power and Ground leads. I found that I inadvertently labeled two sets of this function the same color IDs, although the branches were significantly different when it came to length of lead. Thankfully I didn't have to tear this branch apart, but it does bring home the idea that you need to check functions of the harness as you go along or as you stated try to run the harness before even putting together to see if you have it all worked out. Similarly, I have taken this harness to the car no less than 10 times to check my branch points, run lengths, and just general idea of confirming some runs are long enough. My nylon rope mock up was a bit off as it didn't do to well mocking up the perfect 90 deg boot that will go on this connector. So I essentially moved the first branch point closer to the connector and that moved everything closer to this connector.

crash

10-05-2020, 01:27 PM

You bring up an excellent point on errors. Sometimes it is as easy as reconfiguring a output/input on a "black box" or sometimes just swapping a pin at a connector. If you need to swap the pin and the harness is all buttoned up...

This is actually a regular occurance for me. Last time was that a "black box" (ECU) manufacturer changed up the pinouts on their product but I had built to their previous units and their previous pin out call outs. Major changes and I was SO glad I had left everything loose and tried it first.

Things happen. Sometimes beyond your control. The proof is in the pudding when it is all said and done...and planned and schematiced.

Alan_C

10-05-2020, 02:47 PM

All the words of wisdom and experience are appreciated. I will make sure to test before shrinking the boots on the back of the connectors.

Shoeless

10-06-2020, 11:24 AM

Took some time during my lunch break today to work on the continuity check after finishing the first branch. Simply take a corresponding Deutsch pin that mates to the socket and create a custom lead for your volt meter. I'm about half done and hope to finishing this check tonight and carry on with the next step of sheathing this section and recovering the DR-25.

https://i.imgur.com/JgAFrHj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aLzc1Xi.jpg

Shoeless

10-06-2020, 08:08 PM

Finished up the continuity check and everything checked out as expected, so time to move forward. Following the build plan (which is in a repeating Brach, Twist, Sheath, and Boot process) my next step is to sheath the harness section from the Deutsch Body Connector to Branch Point A. Measuring the diameter of the twisted section at .450" lends to 3/4 DR-25 as it has a shrink ratio of 2:1. There is also the question of length. Although DR-25 spec states it won't shrink on its length, I've been taught to add 5%. So I carefully measure from the branch point to the area I know the 90 boot will cover at the Deutsch connector, cut to length, and slide in place.

https://i.imgur.com/SRYKMo5.jpg

Now you can shrink a small portion of one end, I chose the branch point as it is a little more critical to me, and then put a piece of Kapton tape over it to hold it in place.

https://i.imgur.com/QmdJ6ux.jpg

Now shrink the whole length making sure to apply even heat. I use a circular reflector for this, I'll get a pic of that another time.

https://i.imgur.com/zvSQxaM.jpg

Now this section is complete. At this point I can now demonstrate one of the huge benefits of this entire technique, it is completely flexible in any direction.

https://i.imgur.com/WhrD8Ft.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GGrs4Mm.jpg

Shoeless

10-09-2020, 10:43 AM

I worked on the splices that will be hidden behind Branch Point A on the harness. These are sensor ground and sensor power leads that split and go to several areas in the harness. Then covered with Raychem SCL. The took the harness back to the car to confirm the branch lengths for the leads that will actually go toward the rear of the car from this branch point. Covered them all with DR-25 and shrunk in place.

At this point I'll clean up this branch point, secure with Kapton Tape, measure for the proper shrink moldable boot and get that on order. I'll try to order all the boots I need for my transitions so I don't have to place multiple order.

https://i.imgur.com/s9FWQWe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xJBzm8R.jpg

beeman

10-09-2020, 12:05 PM

Briefly, what is the kapton tape for? I have only used it as a sacrificial surface on a glass 3D Printer bed.

Jay-rod427

10-09-2020, 12:51 PM

Briefly, what is the kapton tape for? I have only used it as a sacrificial surface on a glass 3D Printer bed.

It can serve several purposes. Holding the wire bundle instead of lacing tape, but in most instances it is to keep the adhesive from shrink products, or epoxy off of the wires. So if need be shrink products can be removed without damaging the wire insulation integrity. Also commonly used to "build up" a bundle diameter if needed to make it an appropriate diameter.

Shoeless

10-09-2020, 06:37 PM

Yup, also good as a masking around connectors so as you are building and moving things in and out of the vehicle for test fits you don’t beat up your expensive connectors. See the last pic in post 140. I have Kapton tape wrapped around the forward side of the connector. When you remove it, it will not leave a residue.

Shoeless

10-11-2020, 12:46 PM

Got some Sunday morning progress on the harness. Worth mentioning another function of the Kapton tape is assist with strain relief in the branch points. You will see this below.

The progress today is building up the 3 layer twist from Branch Point A to Branch Point B, securing Branch Point A for final boot measurements, and sheath from A to B. I'd really like to work from Brach Point B outward so I can get a boot measurement for this location and order these both up at the same time, so I'll have to do some more work before I order them.

I start out twisting Layer 1 and Layer 2 as seen in pic 1 and 2, worth noting is any time you see violet wiring in my harness, these are all filler wires to fill out the concentrically twisted layers. Pic 3 is securing the filler wires that go to Brach Point A and pic 4 is the 3/4" DR-25 shrunk on the run from A to B. Notice the lettering on the sheathing, the entire harness will read all in one direction, it's all about the details. The last pic is with more Kapton tape as a strain relief of Branch Point A and scuffed up in preparation for shrinking a boot on this transition point. Scuffing the DR-25 allows for better adhesion when apply RT-375 epoxy under the transition boot while recovering. Note in pic 3 all the branches are placed in such a manner that they don't have to cross over each other to get to their final destination.

https://i.imgur.com/EPKimRv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/F887KbE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2g6ACwl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TVvSXzP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2MGIEuD.jpg

KGTM

10-14-2020, 12:44 AM

That is a lots of wires!

I thought you have ISIS system and that was suppose to removed all these wires.

I hate to debug this baby.

Shoeless

10-14-2020, 07:34 AM

That is a lots of wires!

I thought you have ISIS system and that was suppose to removed all these wires.

I hate to debug this baby.

Since I will be running a standalone ECU with WAY more function than a stock ECU, an AEM CD-7 digital race dash, traction control, and countless other features, the additional interface with the engine harness is required. If you read post 132 you will see all the functions that interface with this part of the harness.

No need to debug if you build it right the first time :cool: that's why I spent countless hours on the build documentation and check the harness along the way while building it.

beeman

10-14-2020, 01:07 PM

I've torn apart a lot of factory harnesses, looked like a child built them compared to this.

KGTM

10-15-2020, 12:50 AM

With all these connection you will need a great documentation.

Looks like you are doing great job in that, I need to do same one of these day.

Mostafa

Shoeless

10-15-2020, 10:22 AM

Thanks for the kind words and feedback.

Documentation is an absolute MUST for this approach. As you can imagine if you make one mistake on Layer 1 of the first Branch, I'd be in for A LOT of rework to fix it.

Shoeless

10-17-2020, 11:22 AM

I started working on the Tunnel Flying Lead branch point this morning. This is a perfect example of the most simplified concentrically twisted pattern. This branch has a core of one 20 ga wire and 6 x 20 ga wires twisted around this core. A rule of thumb if I had the need for a second layer is to add 6 wires to the last layer count of wires in order to determine the amount of wires that would be in the subsequent layer. Since there were 6 wires in layer one, I would add 6 to that to get 12 wires for the next layer, if I needed to. This patter will continue if you had more layers as well, just add 6 to the previous layer count.

This branch is now ready for DR-25 and then I'll start working the branch that goes to the drivers cockpit location.

https://i.imgur.com/EP6OqxG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4rFuBkn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rgy4yQP.jpg

Apexspeedtech

10-18-2020, 01:36 PM

This all just blows me a away. 15 years ago, I owned a professional motorsports electronics wiring shop, and the only way we had to learn was by tearing apart harnesses built in the UK and trying to reverse-engineer the parts and processes. Now there are so many talented people like yourself getting into it, my hat's off to you for the fine work!

Shoeless

10-18-2020, 04:01 PM

Apexspeedtech

10-19-2020, 10:16 AM

Thank you for the kind words and welcome to the GTM madness, looking forward to seeing the progress on your resurrection.

Yes, and if you have any questions wiring wise, I'm happy to try and help. My former wiring techs have gone on to do work at Space-X, Nissan Motorsports & TRD, I can reach out to them as well. I've also had a 20-year relationship with IS Motorsport & MOTEC; happy to help with anything regarding mil-spec wire, Autosport connectors, etc.

That said, you're already killing it! The concentric twist, use of lacing tape, SCL sealed splices, solder sleeve shield terminations & service loops check all the boxes. If anything: Are you using Mylar or Teflon tape, I can't quite tell but it still looks Mylar. All good, but the newer Teflon stuff seems to work a little better.

I do like your wiring diagram, though the industry standard is more spreadsheets + layouts. I think a lot of this comes from Harnware and other software tools - which by the way I'm totally out of date on. If you have the bandwidth to do all you did in CAD, that'll be a real benefit in the end.

Have you already committed to the AEM ECU? I'm sorry if I missed it in your thread, but what else have you chosen hardware wise? Integration is a main goal of the car I'm working on. I'm going to set it up with 4 "drive modes:" Street, Track, Rain & Valet: 3 on a visible switch, the 4th hidden. We will have different throttle response, traction control, ABS & ride height based on the switch position & other criteria.

-Neel

Shoeless

10-19-2020, 02:37 PM

Thanks for the offering of help, you never know when you are going to run across something you may or may not know how to deal with it. Especially from someone with way more experience that I have at the moment :cool: to be honest this is one huge learning exercise for me.

I'm using just regular Kapton tape, no Teflon tape on this build, I may have to try some out and see how I like it.

When I first started this venture, I downloaded and studied what was available from AEM. They had some large PDFs of their harnesses to accompany the pinouts in the instructions. I quickly discovered if I went with any aftermarket setup, I'd need to build my own harness to get the functionality I was looking for. So I studied more of the AEM documents and pretty much created my diagram in conjunction with an excel spreadsheet for all the pin outs. I can't remember at what point I gravitated to AEM and really made a decision to go with them. Likely a combination of simply studying their manuals (yes, I read all 400+ pages before I even knew what I was doing, LOL), making the plan for my GTM and what I wanted functionality wise, and then just stayed with them once I started putting in all the work. So I am HEAVILY committed to that at the moment. Custom ECU mounting bracket in place and powder coated, months worth of documentation created, and with the above build being specifically designed for the I/O of the Series 7 setup. Right now I'll have two 12 position dials, one for traction control sensitivity and one for launch control RPM. I'm sure I can blend in some other features depending how I set up all up with the tables in the software. O that's another point, I'll be doing all the tuning on this from scratch. I'd love if someone would rent me load bearing dyno time and just let me run it, but I need to look around for that. Likely all road tuning until I can get to a dyno someone would either let me rent or work directly with one on it.

I'm pretty excited to be finally jumping into build this chassis side harness. This is actually going to be a piece of cake compared to my engine harness, so this is a good practice run for me.

Apexspeedtech

10-19-2020, 11:50 PM

I'm using just regular Kapton tape, no Teflon tape on this build, I may have to try some out and see how I like it.

If you want to grab a roll to try it you can get them here: https://www.milspecwiring.com/12-204-2HD-Teflon-Tape--36-YARDS_p_880.html

I've done a few AEM Infinity Systems, happy to answer any questions there too. These days I pretty much stick to MOTEC because of the integration possibilities. Do I remember you're someplace in Florida? This car is up in Daytona Beach, tuning is what I do and again happy to guide you and anyone else.

Shoeless

10-20-2020, 02:09 PM

Thanks for the link on the tape.

It will be nice to have another builder/tuner around when I get this bad boy fired up and ready to go. Yup, I’m down in Palm City FL about 2 hrs S of Daytona. I actually went to ERAU in Daytona for my BS in Aerospace Engineering.

Shoeless

10-22-2020, 11:24 AM

Hey guys,

I got in several boots to continue with the harness construction and our next step is to slide the boots in place and print out all the labels for each of the branch points and put those to the side with each connector that will ultimately be installed.

The boots I picked up are as follows:
1 x 222K152-25-0 For the large Deutsch AS Connector
1 x 202a142-25-0 For the first large transition point
2 x 202A132-25-0 For the next two smaller transitions
Several others for the other Deutsch AS connectors which I will add later

https://i.imgur.com/9l4oQ6e.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bZe3GyB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xZtbz0C.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/n1sSWo2.jpg

crash

10-22-2020, 11:41 AM

Shoeless

10-22-2020, 01:13 PM

Just curious...why aren't you using branched boots?

https://prowireusa.com/c-71-382a.aspx

Here is the three way that would probably work for most of your branches...

https://prowireusa.com/c-121-raychem-462a-boots.aspx

Great question.

The way this harness lays in the GTM, the straight boots that I'm using and the direction that the harness goes off in after the branch are more aligned with straight boots. I thoroughly reviewed exactly how I could branch a couple things out and one "Y" branch might have worked at the first large branch point, but the B dimensions (after shrunk) did not work for my setup. There was also a possibility of a "T" branch at the second branch point, but again the B dimensions were not conducive to the diameter of all the branched entering and exiting each opening. I would have to build up diameter with additional pieces of SCL shrunk over the branch just to make it work.

Worth noting there will be a number of locations when I get to the engine harness build that I fully intended will use T and possibly Y branches.

Jay-rod427

10-23-2020, 01:27 PM

And the T's and Y's get crazy expensive! But that ship has already sailed in this adventure. It's crazy how quick the $$$ adds up on a harness like this.

Shoeless

10-23-2020, 08:04 PM

And the T's and Y's get crazy expensive! But that ship has already sailed in this adventure. It's crazy how quick the $$$ adds up on a harness like this.

That's the damn truth LOL. This approach is not for the weak at heart if you don't like burning through cash. I think the fact that i'm an avid offshore fisherman and have owned several boats over the years, I'm used to a lighting hundred dollar bills on fire and not crying :cool: I'll never forget my first Blue Marlin I caught a couple years back in the Bahamas. Best $600 in fuel i've ever burned in one day in my life.

That aside, on an honest level, I've got nearly every expense of the engine harness in my BOM so that I can track the cost and I'm easily over $3,500 in just materials and easily around $2,000 just in tools.

Shoeless

10-25-2020, 11:55 AM

Now that I have the boots in place its time to print out all labeling, cut clear heat shrink, and install on each branch. I've also noted that I need some additional SCL in place to build up diameter so when I shrink the moldable boots they are fully recovered. I'll be using these three pin Deutsch AS Flanged connectors for the wheel speed sensors and building up leads to go from these to the hubs. I made a template of the boot so I can mark where it will recover. This will be the first time I used these small boots and it actually has 2 lips on the boot. You can trim it back or leave it full length. I also got to start workin on the connector for the 6 Channel CAN Hub, the 4 Port CAN Hug, and a Flying Lead just incase I want to add more sensors down the road.

https://i.imgur.com/gXormMT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UhACq0k.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/088k1KE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nOER3oR.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jhLWdYJ.jpg

crash

10-26-2020, 10:49 AM

Did you know that the plastic Deutsch plugs can be optioned with both boot flanges and mounting flanges? Probably save you a good bit of $$ as opposed to the metal bulkhead connectors. The heat shrink boot flanges are not cheap for what you get, but you do end up with a nice finished product. At this point you could likely still easily swap them out. Give Nick a call and talk to him about connectors with the shrink boot flanges. He had almost all of the different plugs in stock with the boot flange option when he was based here and I would guess that is still the case. The mounting flange option he carried very few of, but maybe that has changed.

Shoeless

10-26-2020, 12:12 PM

Hey Crash,

I'm sure I have come across the ones you are noting above. It's absolutely amazing how many options are out there in this crazy wiring world. I'll have to poke around a little more and see what all options are out there.

crash

10-26-2020, 02:53 PM

Here is a 6 pin with the boot flange...

https://prowireusa.com/p-2512-dt06-6s-e008-with-shrink-boot-lip.aspx

crash

10-26-2020, 03:00 PM

Just saw these...

https://prowireusa.com/p-2997-dt-8-way-receptacle-a-key-bussed.aspx

Never used these before but they are a bussed plug so multiple pins are connected to each other internally. This would mean that one could use this connector instead of bunching wires together to do branch splits. Very cool. I think I will pick a couple of these up.

Shoeless

10-26-2020, 07:23 PM

I'll have to check out the bussed plugs, that's a new one for me too.

Actually I do have some of the lipped connectors, they are on the GTM side versus the harness side. I do it this way as the socket connectors are on the GTM side and pins are on the harness side. The only caveat to that is my 4 port CAN Hub, it’s got the pins in the hub so the harness will have the sockets. I guess I picked that up somewhere that sockets are on the car/motor and pins are on the harness.

Look familiar :cool:
https://i.imgur.com/xuYufAE.jpg

Here's the clock spring plug
https://i.imgur.com/TPYB6TW.jpg

And the reverse light switch plug from the transaxle
https://i.imgur.com/FUrxuwd.jpg

Shoeless

10-29-2020, 05:58 PM

I went ahead and shrunk down the boot on one of the four 3 pin AS connectors I'm using for my wheel speed sensors to make sure my template was actually representative of the shrunk boot. Sure enough good to go. After that I prepped the other three and if I have a bit of time tonight I'll recover these boots as well.

https://i.imgur.com/jguRmFW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xUfrYCz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZuRYunN.jpg

Shoeless

10-30-2020, 05:04 PM

Finished up shrinking and epoxying the other three.

https://i.imgur.com/RNoVuzq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/H9E3jbX.jpg

Shoeless

10-31-2020, 05:23 PM

I started working on the first transition boot recovery this afternoon after gettin all the other Deutsch DTM connectors in place. This was the first time I have dealt with a larger transition boot ( 202A142) and I will definitely be doing a little things differently next time, but I think it turned out ok and is full sealed and completely strain relieving the branch point.

Started out with supporting branch point A with my two vices in the orientation it will sit in the vehicle. I checked the full length of the fully recovered boot and ensure the DR-25 was scuffed up. This was the first lesson, since my branch points are a larger diameter than the shrink dimensions, the overall length of the fully shrunk boot would not show up. This showed up as I was working this boot and thank god I had my heat resistant glove on and could move the boot around a bit. Before shrinking the boot on the brach point that has multiple leads coming out, its good to inject some RT-125 in between the branches and then put a nice bead all the way around. I then shrunk down the H end and here is where I noticed the length issue. Again thankfully I could act quickly and adjust. I applied a bead of epoxy on the J end and then shrunk down the boot towards that end. From here, since the epoxy is self leveling, you need to adjust the harness in the vice so all the separate branch points are pointing up. At this point you can apply more epoxy in the center between the branches, then zip tie the branches together and apply epoxy around the perimeter. Since its self leveling you need to check back on it and reapply more epoxy in areas that leveled into the boot.

Overall results are not too bad for my first time using one of these larger boots and I'm sure I'll get better as I practice. It's proving a perfect plan for me to build this small chassis harness with all the methods, tools, and approach that I will us to build my engine harness.

https://i.imgur.com/wMD9Ksi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4aFbqIg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dhHQr9t.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qE30S98.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8k8PBex.jpg

Shoeless

11-01-2020, 05:15 PM

Been a busy day wiring harness wise. I've got one small transition that I decided to us SCL instead of purchasing a specialty boot. I think it worked out pretty well. Just cut a longer section of SCL, shrunk down the large end, heated up the exit and pinched it with some needle nose so the glue will stick, and then finished recovering.

https://i.imgur.com/61jh2JW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cCQeBZc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DfWBv4U.jpg

Then moved on and recovered the large 90 deg boot around the main connector boot. No in process photos, but here is the finished product.

https://i.imgur.com/fCdVDOp.jpg

I also started to prep the leads that will plug into the ZR-1 wheel speed hubs and connect back to this harness. I'm starting to get pretty proficient at some of these tasks, so today was a busy day.

https://i.imgur.com/8Pp6wLb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kr4KM8g.jpg

Apexspeedtech

11-02-2020, 12:47 PM

I decided to us SCL instead of purchasing a specialty boot

I use a lot of SCL (or W5 glueline) semi-rigid shrink for making transitions and sealing the ends of ring terminals. In a pinch if you don't have a connectors but you do have pins, they work great for isolating them from each other. I'd recommend that anyone doing wiring keep a bunch of these in their toolbox, they're super handy and are much better suited to the average thin-wall Flexi stuff I see.

Some suppliers:
https://www.milspecwiring.com/W3-Glueline_c_449.html
https://racespeconline.com/products/scl-heat-shrink?_pos=1&_sid=4bd6ef949&_ss=r&variant=23009229697

Though the W3 is listed as a 3:1 shrink and the SCL is 2:1, I've used them pretty interchangeably.

beeman

11-02-2020, 01:03 PM

I use a lot of SCL (or W5 glueline) semi-rigid shrink for making transitions and sealing the ends of ring terminals. In a pinch if you don't have a connectors but you do have pins, they work great for isolating them from each other. I'd recommend that anyone doing wiring keep a bunch of these in their toolbox, they're super handy and are much better suited to the average thin-wall Flexi stuff I see.

Some suppliers:
https://www.milspecwiring.com/W3-Glueline_c_449.html
https://racespeconline.com/products/scl-heat-shrink?_pos=1&_sid=4bd6ef949&_ss=r&variant=23009229697

Though the W3 is listed as a 3:1 shrink and the SCL is 2:1, I've used them pretty interchangeably.

Nice stuff. For the less extravagant builds, I've had great luck with the Harbor Freight marine heat shrink, it has an inner lining of heat activated adhesive to waterproof the splice.

https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

Shoeless

11-04-2020, 08:26 PM

I took Crash's recommendation and made a last minute change on some of the DTM connectors since I had to order up some additional DR-25. Installed those this evening and finished recovering some ATUM over them and this harness is officially completed. I did leave one DTM specifically as it was so that I could see the wire ID colors and it will actually be in the foot well of the driver's seat as a flying lead, so I need to be able to see what they are for the future if I ever need them.

Short of installing in the chassis and installing the pedal plug and the AEM CD-7 Race Dash Deutsch DTM Plug that won't fit through the grommet, she is complete.

https://i.imgur.com/YTbGFca.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DKIn2Im.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MbXYdRr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qrRywrM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/B7GlYcR.jpg

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

11-05-2020, 09:08 AM

Wow.....looks like you are making some really good progress with this!

crash

11-05-2020, 11:04 AM

Looking good.

Just so you are aware, the last time I had an outside vendor quote me a simple replacement harness like this for an LS3, which is basically a "standard" harness, they wanted over $2500.00, so you have quite a valuable product there and if you ever sell your car you should absolutely point out the value of these harnesses to the potential buyer. They are NOT CHEAP.

Shoeless

11-05-2020, 11:22 AM

Wow.....looks like you are making some really good progress with this!

Thank you Shane!!! All the effort that went into this really paid off. It is real work of art.

Looking good.

Just so you are aware, the last time I had an outside vendor quote me a simple replacement harness like this for an LS3, which is basically a "standard" harness, they wanted over $2500.00, so you have quite a valuable product there and if you ever sell your car you should absolutely point out the value of these harnesses to the potential buyer. They are NOT CHEAP.

Thank you Sir!!!

I don't doubt that quoted price one bit. Material costs aside, the labor to do this is unbelievable. I'm sure I took WAY longer than a shop that does this all the time, but $2,500 seems about right.

The GTM is going to be staying with me for quite some time :cool: but will definitely be pointing out items like this if/when I sell. The engine harness is going to be even more insane than this one. The use of Deutsch AS connectors for everything is driving material cost WAY up, but I bought most of it on sale, so I at least saved a little bit of $$$. The way I envision the engine bay you will see all the connectors for the coils so I choose the carbon fiber plenum cover and not a full engine cover that would hide the work of art I'm about to build.

dlud

11-05-2020, 02:00 PM

So impressive!

Shoeless

11-08-2020, 04:25 PM

Hey guys,

I've been spending the last day or so installing the chassis harness and finishing up the leads for the wheel speed sensors and installed those as well. So far so good, harness fits and reaches every location as planned. I really can't wait to jump into the engine harness plans here shortly so I can hook this all up and turn some 93 octane into the sound of freedom :cool:

https://i.imgur.com/5Epo0xx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qk0Jl6v.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FJBbpNS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GaaCDQ7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xGbQS6v.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MQuJ4R1.jpg

Shoeless

11-24-2020, 12:35 PM

The process of doing up pig tails for sensors and actuators has kicked back off again with the Throttle Body up next. I may wait a bit to do the others on the engine, we'll see. I like working these on my little craft table in the evenings after my day job or working in the garage all day. If you notice in the third pic I have actually trimmed back the Raychem boot as I don't need the full length. The little template I made with the dotted line showed me where the trim would be. I started out with a brand new razor blade and slowly worked around the line on the inside. After the trim you can clean up the boot with some 125 grit sand paper to smooth out any imperfections.

https://i.imgur.com/RlD9dh7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2FazLkk.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/J1pdggM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yNLxcCr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jbFMm9k.jpg

Shoeless

12-14-2020, 11:30 AM

Worked on a few more sensors over the weekend. These are for the AIT, Dual Fuel Pressure/Temp, and Dual Oil Pressure/Temp. Ready to be installed for the final time.

https://i.imgur.com/97vRsrF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/g0er4Y3.jpg

Shoeless

12-20-2020, 05:50 PM

The time has come to officially kick off the engine harness build. There is going to be many late nights planning, possibly building some test sections, and eventually building this beast of a harness. I've still got all the coils to solder and pot with pig tails, but I'll mix that in while I'm working on the harness.

Following the same steps I did for the chassis harness, I start out with nylon rope and run it from the ECU to all sensors, actuators, and power distribution. Paying attention to heat management, adding P clips, and marking all branch points and all the sensor ends.

https://i.imgur.com/7mVcug3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Lazg5XB.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/gNIWJTY.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/3XnHpZk.jpeg

After mocking everything up and taking about 20 pics so I know exactly how I routed everything, time to pull out and create a diagram. For those that have been following along the complexity of this harness compared to the chassis side is night and day. This is really going to test my skills and i can't wait to get going. At this point its time to create all the build documentation that will support the build. This is definitely going to take some time.

https://i.imgur.com/6WvwoBl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Lp8bYDW.jpg

Shoeless

12-30-2020, 12:36 PM

Now that I have the general layout of the harness and what wires need to go where (holy crap that took 3 solid days of excel work), I've got to build some test branches to confirm my build plan sheet. I've got two main connectors on my ECU with each having multiple twisted shielded cables, the CAN network twisted pair, and then according to my plan they merge into one branch. Below are the test branches for each of these 3 main branches of the harness. So far so good and everything is lining up per the plans, so now I can carry this core design out to their termination points in the harness and start to plan out the layers that accompany each branch in the build documentation.

https://i.imgur.com/D9vEr7D.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/QxCpHCC.jpeg

KGTM

12-30-2020, 01:06 PM

Sounds like FUN.

So much to keep track of.

Shoeless

12-30-2020, 01:20 PM

Sounds like FUN.

So much to keep track of.

You have no idea LOL. It haunts me in my sleep at night that I've left one circuit out. I've tried a number of ways of double and triple checking everything, but even that is very challenging and time consuming.

KGTM

12-30-2020, 07:28 PM

You have no idea LOL. It haunts me in my sleep at night that I've left one circuit out. I've tried a number of ways of double and triple checking everything, but even that is very challenging and time consuming.

This is why I did my own controllers since every time I looked at other builders wiring I got scared as how to connect all these, keep track and fix there is an issue later.

So beside my Crate engine ECU, and Camera to dash units, all the other wirings like tail light, rear engine fan, fuel pump, fuel sender, rpm, speed, head light, signal light, park light, gauges, windows, door popper, rad fans, horn, heater valve, power steering control, temp sensor, fuel pressure sensor, reverse gear ditector, and plus more, in most case there are only with in few feet of destination. I can almost follow the wire to where it goes without any documentation. all goes in to computer with special high speed CAN messaging to connect all together, about 1/3 of wight of any other system for what I have in my car.

Only place that got a bit clutter is under my steering column as there are lots of input, output, audio and two displays that works together, like if you turn on hazard light with center console , then the dash will also light up and arrow will blink on both display.

Wish car show where still on, was planning for FFR huntington beach last year but did not happen. so may be this year.

It would have been nice if you were close by where we can work together, I think you would have liked these over ISIS, far more powerful.

check tail LED lights ,just for fun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC8QT4pHaJg

Mostafa

RR46

12-30-2020, 11:35 PM

You have no idea LOL. It haunts me in my sleep at night that I've left one circuit out. I've tried a number of ways of double and triple checking everything, but even that is very challenging and time consuming.

Helpful sanity check, do you have the AEM ECU set and wired to switch off the AC compressor above 4k rpm (and if wanted at WOT)? Or a manual rpm/wot switch that will do that. My car didn't have that, and the early Z06 ECU I am installing now doesn't have the means to do it in standalone mode.

Shoeless

12-31-2020, 10:08 AM

Mostafa,

I wish I had half the skills you have on the Electrical Engineering side, the items that you have developed and implemented in your build are hands down amazing. If we lived closer together and could collaborate on some things, that would be amazing as well. My closest GTM is about 30 min south of me and he actually purchased the car complete and is not mechanically inclined at all.

RR46,

Thanks for the sanity check on the A/C shut off. I've got this wired from an ECU HighSide Switch into the VA unit and can set the RPM at any level for the desired outcome.

Shoeless

01-06-2021, 12:12 PM

Hey guys,

I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday and got to spend some time on their builds. I spent several days working on creating build documentation for the engine harness and below is the final product. I've got a few edits to my step by step instructions due to some challenges in the first stages, but the rest of the documentation is all set. After the build documentation was prepare I cut, labeled, and bagged about a 1,000 feet of wire (that took some time LOL). I've also got to order some special pins to help with continuity checks per the Molex manual.

Once I address the step by step instructions and get these extra pins, I'll be able to kick this massive build off.

https://i.imgur.com/sDMdbz9.jpeg

Shoeless

01-10-2021, 10:24 PM

Now that everything is all organized it's time to dig in. First up is to do all the shield drain splices, sensor power splices, and sensor ground splices that will hide underneath the Molex MX123 cover. I then moved on with pinning every wire in the Molex MX123 connector and making a hug rats nest in the progress. Thankfully I picked up the special depinning tool off eBay for $20 from some guy as I ran into an issue right on the third pin and had to adjust. This thing is literally the size of a needle and barely disengages the pin. I ran into another one that wouldn't lock in place properly and had to tear the plug apart a bit. The Molex manual says don't remove the TPS (Terminal Position Assurance - Grey piece on the face of the connector), but it kind of popped off as I was playing with it, oh well. It worked out as I was then able to remove the second trouble pin. From there on out it was smooth sailing.

https://i.imgur.com/2wG77wM.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/4XUw6tw.jpeg

After everything was pinned properly, it was time to start laying out the first branch. There are a series of splices that run right to the first branch and I'll have to build the second plug up to this stage, do a fit in the car, and make a final mark where I'll do the largest branch point of the whole harness. I'll also wait to lay out this branch point before I put in the filler wire in this last layer to make it all perfectly smooth before lacing it with kevlar cord. From there its basically taking a separate 73 pin connector and a 56 pin connector and run them into one branch right out of the gate about 10" from the ECU. There are a few blank cavities, but you get the idea. This will bundle things really nicely and should look nice.

https://i.imgur.com/8cKlZzT.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/aQxLVVX.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/FDKHl24.jpeg

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

01-11-2021, 09:17 AM

I would always like to comment on this thread, but can't come up with the words......what an insanely ambitious/staggeringly complex project! Wow!!! Very impressive work!

Shoeless

01-11-2021, 02:17 PM

I would always like to comment on this thread, but can't come up with the words......what an insanely ambitious/staggeringly complex project! Wow!!! Very impressive work!

I think those words capture it perfectly LOL. As is likely evident at this point, the planning and documentation needed to even thing about a build like this takes several FULL days of work just to lay it out. All told between the build instructions, splice summary pages, and concentric layer design documentation its a total of 25 pages of printed documents that are absolutely necessary. Not to mention the side notes I keep in excel on my laptop that I refer to.

I really appreciate the comments, especially coming from you Shane. Your work is beyond amazing on these cars!!!

Shoeless

01-16-2021, 04:56 PM

Got some time in on the second Molex connector and made some real progress. I confirmed the branch location in the car, installed the DR-25, and recovered it. Now is the very difficult task of merging these two branches, the power distribution block, and performing several splices that I will need to hide.

https://i.imgur.com/WyOnMkl.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/hRFf7yd.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/WMJpswT.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/DUAbBJS.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/85YFUrQ.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/vgfTifs.jpeg

Shoeless

01-18-2021, 03:47 PM

I've got lots of pics to share over the last two days. We had a furlough day at work today, so that afforded me another full day of working on the harness. Systematically working each section now that the power distribution branch is complete. That was literally the hardest part as I had wires that I had to build from each direction with several large splices and then trying to make it look nice. The branch from the power side is not the best, but it will be behind the fuel tank and under the aluminum so you won't see it when done.

https://i.imgur.com/n3x5UN5.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/VIdSwV2.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/oCCkM1c.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/OLNndir.jpeg

Shoeless

01-18-2021, 03:51 PM

Post #2 for today. My goal today was to knock out the largest branch in the whole build and it has taken me damn near 7 hours and now I'm ready for another test fit in the car.

Worth nothing is this branch alone has 8 x twisted shielded cables, CAN network, Injector, Coil, and Wideband O2 Power, and 71 x 20 ga wires and it top it off, I only needed 1 x 20 ga filler wire to make it a perfect bundle. All the planning and pre-work has paid off and this section alone is confirmation I was on the right track on how I laid this whole thing out.

https://i.imgur.com/Zw6t49i.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/r9Ex9nC.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/s629zh1.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/0tluNYd.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/bAMCL3g.jpeg

Shoeless

01-21-2021, 09:49 PM

Now that the beast of a mid branch is done and recovered, I'm working on the passenger side bank of the engine. I may have been a little ambitious with 5 splices planned behind a 90 degree boot for the transition down the block, but I'll make it work. Each of the Injector pairs and coil branches all match is twist direction, lay length, and orientation of the wires for the coils. I'm likely at the point I'll need to solder and pot the coils and create the pig tails with Deutsch AS connectors so I'll know exactly how long to make the coil branches. Also running a little low on 1/4" DR-25 so I'll need to inventory I what I have left for the whole build and get another order going.

https://i.imgur.com/IwfMJTS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iTElmCx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QH0mlOA.jpg

Shoeless

01-29-2021, 12:13 PM

More progress over the last week. I have officially opened my SECOND bag of 1,000 zip ties as I'm nearing the end of all the branch locations. I have completed the second of the two largest branches and they came out awesome. Now on to the final branch for the driver's side Coils, Injectors, MAP, Throttle Body, and Wideband. I've done what feels like 100 fit checks on the GTM itself. May look a little messy, but there is method to the madness.

https://i.imgur.com/JnqWSfi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kRNZ9b8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8qvSyHf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/avYegND.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/1qcXreM.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/HLewlGo.jpeg

Shoeless

02-01-2021, 11:10 AM

I finished off the Ground, Power, and Power Distribution Block last night and will be working on pinning and installing all the connectors from the ECU plug outboard. This should keep me busy for a while LOL.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the progress and can't wait to at least hit the power button and get the ECU up and running to start setting up the configuration and load a tune.

https://i.imgur.com/6gN6uHK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SURIFuc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UOND6Wd.jpg

Shoeless

02-03-2021, 09:03 AM

Finally stated to install plugs on the ends of the harness leads starting from the ECU plugs and working outboard. Each cylinder will repeat the first pic below with Coil and Injector plugs and the second pic shows the passenger side engine bank branch ready for fit check. Lots of repetitive work ensuring labels, clear heat shrink, and any boots are installed first while some boots can be put on later. Did a fit check last night and so far, I'm very pleased with the progress.

https://i.imgur.com/g6Id9xc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MW0SHKn.jpg

Shoeless

02-06-2021, 08:36 AM

Just finished up installing the last connector on the harness this morning and thought I'd share a pic before I jump in and do one final continuity check. From here I'll start to shrink and epoxy the majority of the boots before I though the harness back in. I'm going to leave a few boots off until I can get into the tuning portion of this just to 100% confirm I have everything pined correctly. Once I start setting up the ECU there is a nice function where I can turn off all the coil, do a test crank, and it will tell me if the Cam and Crank sensors are synced and what is the percentage chance of firing up. Pretty cool options.

https://i.imgur.com/IsihJq1.jpeg

Shoeless

02-07-2021, 03:22 PM

Making tons of progress here lately. I guess that's what happens when you can't sleep because you are so excited to fire this thing up.

I finished up the pig tails for all 8 coils this morning. Cut, epoxied, and recovered the boots in place. I then installed the passenger bank, but still need to pull the valve cover off the driver's side to loosen the rocker arms and validate TDC so I can ensure the ECU is using the proper timing that the engine actually is seeing.

https://i.imgur.com/2gLnzDa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VaqQa4f.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/LfjpxmR.jpg

crash

02-08-2021, 10:58 AM

You might want to leave the boots off your coil plugs. We ended up having to put bleed down resistors on the coils and did so at these connectors.

Shoeless

02-08-2021, 12:17 PM

You might want to leave the boots off your coil plugs. We ended up having to put bleed down resistors on the coils and did so at these connectors.

Interesting. I did come across the attached diagram in my research.

Couple questions:
1. Are you referring to the resistors in this diagram, there are two?
2. What condition did you experience that warranted having to do this?

142271

crash

02-08-2021, 12:32 PM

Shoeless

02-08-2021, 12:46 PM

I had a feeling you were going to ask for specifics. Unfortunately this harness that I have was built at least 8 years ago and I did not do the tuning personally. My tuner said he had to add them to each coil. Easy enough because we used the stock coil plugs and the resistors just sit right outside the silicone plugs. IIR later today I can take a picture of what I have?

Yea, if you can take some pics, that would be awesome. I've also got the old OEM harness that came with the engine that I can try to dissect and see if there is anything in there.

Overall, my intent of leaving the boots on the harness side off until I have the engine up and running seems to be a good decision. Maybe I'll recover the labels and RT-375 so the engine heat doesn't inadvertently shrink them unintentionally.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond and sharing your experience.

Shoeless

03-08-2021, 08:25 PM

After firing up the GTM for the first time this past weekend, I pulled the harness and sealed it up with RT-375 and Raychem shrink molded boots for every Deutsch AS connector and also found some micro boots for the Bosch Injector plugs. I had to resort to ATUM on the Wideband O2 plugs, but overall everything came out excellent.

With this, I'm officially done building this harness. Thank you for the guys that followed along, adding to the conversation, and I hope I have been able to share a bit of what it takes to create a top tier motorsport wiring harness.

https://i.imgur.com/aam2y8U.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/G9FdSCd.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/bGMrpHd.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/wozM8SU.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/Tw3n6L7.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/SHMFur0.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/A4i768f.jpeg

beeman

03-08-2021, 09:31 PM

Congratulations, no small feat. Looks beautiful, try not to hide it too much.

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

03-09-2021, 09:15 AM

A real work of art there! Congrats!!

Shoeless

03-09-2021, 01:29 PM

Thank you for the kind words gentlemen!!!

I wish this was something a bit more visible in the build, but it’s somewhat designed to be hidden and out of the way. I’ll take some pics of the coils and injectors plugged in once I get it installed again. Turned out exactly how I expected!!!!

Shoeless

03-11-2021, 06:52 AM

I finished up installing the harness yesterday. I double checked all the clearances, connections, and then secured in place with p clips.

https://i.imgur.com/ZAQcK66.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jwvAYZY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nPrxjTw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qYUxY8O.jpg

Shoeless

01-29-2023, 11:52 AM

As some of you have read in my build thread post, its time to convert the GTM to a full MoTeC set up. With this comes a number of changes needed to my current harness. So back to this thread.

I started with mapping out the locations of the hardware (M170, C127, LTC, RaceGrade 6 axis IMU, and Wifi Router), then drew up a map of the needed connections. From here I broke out the rope to map the routing of the harness and then measuring the branch lengths. From there I'm creating a supplement to my main harness documentation. The branches and needed wiring for this modification have me working down to 24 AWG wire, so several test branches need to be made to create a BOM for what I need to order to build these parts of the modified harness.

Several branches have single and double twisted pair ethernet 24 AWG wire with others having simple CAN with power and ground.

https://i.imgur.com/LnCxgxE.jpg

hhttps://i.imgur.com/WkKxKMA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WkKPiCB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lFJKNdW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iacK9my.jpg

Next up is building my BOM for the harness portion of this and getting another order in.

I'm still waiting on a bit of consultation on the whole swap, but i finished watching all the HPA videos on the M1 platform. Pretty damn powerful.

VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC

01-30-2023, 09:32 AM

That is insanely involved!! Wow.....

Ajzride

01-30-2023, 10:15 AM

So you are skinning the Cat6 cable sheathing away and just inserting the raw twisted pairs? I assume it's not shielded then.

Shoeless

01-30-2023, 10:43 AM

That is insanely involved!! Wow.....

Oh yea it is. I spent hours and hours simply going pin by pin from the AEM to the MoTeC M170 just to see if this was even possible. I need to add about 10 splices for sensor power, sensor grounds, wheel speed +12V switched power, and reconfiguring the power distribution scheme. This is going to be quite the endeavor.

So you are skinning the Cat6 cable sheathing away and just inserting the raw twisted pairs? I assume it's not shielded then.

I actually bought the industry standard Ethernet RX and TX wire already twisted to the proper lay length and then incorporated them into the branches as needed, no shielding needed. One branch will have 4 x 2 x 24 AWG twist pairs, power, and ground going to the wifi module. That's the last pic in the above post.

crash

01-30-2023, 11:27 AM

Shoeless

01-30-2023, 03:59 PM

I find it much easier to just order the shielded twisted pairs or three wire cables. Between the shielding and the outer sheath provided, the wires are very protected. Then you put the DR-25 over it and it is REALLY protected. Much care should be taken when stripping though to not nick an individual wires insulation.

I do not use anything smaller than 22 gauge as 24 is like two strands thick and does not leave much for the connectors to grab onto, much less it is a little difficult to even get the strands into the connectors.

EDIT: I had a look at the connectors I have here and the DTM (mini Deutsch connector) pins are only rated down to 22g.

I was about to just order the wire and twist it myself, so that I can stay with the industry standard color code (Green and Green/White twisted and Orange and Orange/White twisted) then I came across a couple spools already done so I just picked them up. Yea the 24 AWG is going to be fun to work with. I have a need for a couple Deutsch ASL connectors with size 23 pins (I think you can use 22-26 in them with the proper crimp tool and positioner, which I will have). Similarly, I have the proper strip tool. If anyone wanted to know that tool alone is about $350.

Thankfully all the Deutsch connectors have insertion and retraction tools. Inserting in a DTM connector even if you folded back the wire on itself to make a larger CMA, you would still have a very hard time.

Shoeless

03-27-2023, 05:26 AM

I figured a good place to start before getting all the hardware was creating the MoTeC C127 Dash Pig Tail Plug. This uses a single 34 position Amp Superseal 1.0 mm pug and needs to be broken out to several plugs (for my application 12 different plugs). I've never done one of these plugs, but am using the RaceSpec 1.0 connectors that Joel himself developed. This requires another expensive DMC tool, but I was able to get another positioner and now I can do really nice closed barrel DTM pins for all the gauge wire I need.

https://i.imgur.com/qaQ4t4q.jpeg

Next step is cut and prep all the wire. This required creating a few twisted pairs and a 3x twist for a flying lead. I also started at the bottom left with the CAN comms cable as I needed to splice this then also the power and ground splices.

https://i.imgur.com/8hpWDTw.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/GfKDZCC.jpeg

From here I went with the other connections that required me to do a concentric twist or a twist of a twisted pair with filler and wrapped all Kevlar binding.

https://i.imgur.com/4jvpLRk.jpeg

A fun shot of my workstation taking up half our pool table so I can work inside in the AC.

https://i.imgur.com/I4XPfxG.jpeg

And the finished product strain relieved and ready for the back shell and DR-25.

https://i.imgur.com/J2ezIhX.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/sq4jIxk.jpeg

Shoeless

03-31-2023, 06:23 AM

I'm making some decent progress on the C127 pig tail. Albeit I am working ahead in my steps due to needing more materials (DR-25 and a couple connectors). Typically I'll do all of each step for each branch and then move to the next task for all branches. That was its easier to make sure you don't miss any one thing. Thankfully this is a pretty small jumper harness so its not terribly complicated, plus having the proper documentation makes it easy to know what's done and when. Once each branch is covered in DR-25 and terminated, I'll keep the C127 back shell boot unrecovered until I receive the unit, get it in the car and test it all out.

https://i.imgur.com/oLpu7SM.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/eUE4QL7.jpeg

Alan_C

03-31-2023, 03:54 PM

Just incredible effort and attention to detail. My hat is off to you and your project.

Shoeless

03-31-2023, 06:00 PM

Just incredible effort and attention to detail. My hat is off to you and your project.

Thank you Alan, I greatly appreciate it!!

Shoeless

04-01-2023, 06:33 AM

Had to do a little rework today, thankfully I wasn't past the point of no return and it was to add additional functionality. Another reminder having your plan set and all your documentation in place is very important.

I discovered the JRR Universal Motorsports Package has cruise control. You only need to have all the required inputs (speed sensor, brake switch, clutch switch - I'll skip this for now, on, set, resume, speed up, slow down). My M170 is completely full, but I do have some inputs on the C127 open that I can use for the brake switch, but I need everything else. I have steering wheel buttons I can program for long hold to do this, but I didn't want to confuse myself, so I needed another solution. MoTeC has a 6 button CAN rotary keypad that looks perfect for this.

I initially hit up the HPAcademy forum and was told the JRR package doesn't support this. hmmmmmm I swore Joel told me this was a option. An email off the JRR and he explained it. I need to hook up this CAN rotary keypad to the C127 via CAN2 (dedicated CAN bus for this), the C127 will interpret all the inputs, and will then send to the M170 over CAN1 and the M170 will take action against the changes requested. Pretty interesting way to do this, but it took me a bit to figure out being VERY new to MoTeC.

I now need to add CAN2 lead to my C127 Pig Tail. I also need to add a single 120 ohm resistor near the Dash. Below is my solution. Crimp a resistor across the CAN Hi and Low, cover in Raychem SCL and then plug into the CAN2 Slots. This will all be hidden behind the boot for the C127 plug.

https://i.imgur.com/eM9QvLP.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/h2xWJ39.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/6Ce5Y9Z.jpeg

Shoeless

04-06-2023, 06:25 PM

After many early mornings working on this pig tail harness before my day job, its as complete as I plan on making it for the moment. The only item remaining is the Raychem shrink molded boot intended for the C127 back shell/plug. I intend to do a full functionality test once the hardware gets here and get it temporarily installed. I'm confident of the build, this is more to make me warm a fuzzy before I seal everything up.

Most of the plugs were pretty straight forward, 2 pin, either 20 or 22 ga wire.

https://i.imgur.com/cWnlXU0.jpeg

But this one was a pain. 2 x twisted 24 ga with 2 x 22 ga power and ground into a 6 pin DTM. I can't say enough of how much a pleasure it is using the proper DMC crimpers that flawlessly handle this small gauge stuff. A left over Deutsch AS pin insertion/removal tool was key in getting these small gauge pinned wires into their cavities properly.

https://i.imgur.com/sI8g5nR.jpeg

And the finished product.

https://i.imgur.com/qcNLkjh.jpeg

crash

04-10-2023, 09:34 AM

Definitely a lot of work there. Thanks for taking us along on this journey.

Shoeless

04-10-2023, 06:05 PM

Definitely a lot of work there. Thanks for taking us along on this journey.

Yes it was.

It's my pleasure to share what I have learned and am implementing on my build. I'm constantly learning and by sharing it opens the door to conversations with other like minded individuals, such as yourself, to share on this topic and others.

Next steps I have been working on is cleaning up some of the chassis side wiring and installing the DTM plugs needed to connect to this pig tail. I've also got my wifi router in build as we speak at RaceSpec and it looks like I'm going to add the MoTeC 6 Button Rotary CAN Controller I mentioned above. Once the wifi router arrives, I'll build the harness that will interface with the dash and the ECU. Then, I'll pull the engine harness and do the needed modifications to interface with the MoTeC ECU.

beeman

04-10-2023, 06:33 PM

Agreed, I'm finishing up a complete rewire of my Lotus Esprit, I'm not going to post any pictures of my work in the same forum as this thread!

Shoeless

04-10-2023, 07:35 PM

Agreed, I'm finishing up a complete rewire of my Lotus Esprit, I'm not going to post any pictures of my work in the same forum as this thread!

Thank you, it’s my pleasure to share.

crash

04-11-2023, 10:15 AM

I skimmed real quick but did not see mention of the WiFi previously. Maybe I am missing it, but what are the plans for the WiFi?

Shoeless

04-11-2023, 01:48 PM

I skimmed real quick but did not see mention of the WiFi previously. Maybe I am missing it, but what are the plans for the WiFi?

Hey crash,

I breezed over it in post 211 when I first mentioned the upgrade. The WiFi router will connect to the M170 ECU and the C127 Dash and allow me to simultaneously connect my laptop to those devices for tuning, updating, and downloading log files. Will be nice to not have to swap cables to connect to each device and also be able to do work while sitting on the couch in my living room working on the car :cool:.

crash

04-11-2023, 03:54 PM

Had an interesting observation the other day. Engine builder and electronics guy said that they have done a setup where they use Star Link to do telemetry on a race vehicle. It is darn near real time and you can do live video, diagnostics, etc. Probably not needed on your setup,(really not needed on mine either) but, hey, you could be "working on your GTM" from anywhere in the world, as well as seeing exactly what it is doing!

Shoeless

04-11-2023, 05:28 PM

That's pretty damn cool!!! The capabilities are endless these days.

I've come across some seriously high end equipment in my research, but I'm sure I'm just scratching the surface. The C127 has a built in 3 axis accelerometer, or you can do a 6 axis RaceGrade IMU for $500 or an Obsidian Motorsports Group INS for $4,500. All depends how much data you want :eek:

Shoeless

04-30-2023, 06:04 PM

Got in a shipment this past Friday. Pretty stoked to get in the WiFi Router and the MoTeC 6 Button Rotary Keypad. I can now start the harness for the WiFi Router and the short CAN harness for the Key Pad. I have a piece on the 3D printer to make a temporary mounting plate for the Keypad to be mounted below where the shifter is located. I had to move my window switches to the sidewall of the tunnel, but that was a perfect move as that's where I originally had my USB connection ports for my old AEM devices. Just waiting to link up with my guy to route out a piece of carbon fiber to finish that little piece off.

https://i.imgur.com/YXcDakH.jpeg

beeman

05-01-2023, 12:09 PM

Shoeless

05-02-2023, 08:08 AM

Cool parts for sure.
Are the 3 buttons on the rotary dial plate user-selectable or fixed? Do you label them with a decal?
I'm trying to figure out the best way to make OEM-like labels for buttons and switches, playing around with laser-printed waterslide decals but finish isn't perfect.
Laser engraving?
I think dry transfer might be a better option?... https://www.drytransfer.com/

Thoughts?

The three buttons are completely user-selectable. That's one of the benefits of making this swap to MoTeC. I originally needed more inputs into my C127 Dash to be able to set up and use cruise control, but have since discovered the possibilities from this small key pad are endless. I can set these buttons to do completely different things all based on what page is displayed on the dash. One guy that helped me with the AEM in the past noted that he created a page within the Dash Creator that has 10 different selectable windows. When each window is selected, with the rotary dial, the three buttons perform different functions ranging from LED brightness, fast lap reset, fuel used reset, TPMS on/off, anti-lag on/off, pit limit speed map selected, and even a specific "dyno" screen that shows pertinent info while dyno tuning the car. These are some advanced features that I'm going to have to learn to set up for myself, but I love this stuff, so I'm all in.

To answer the question, yes there is a standard translucent label pack you can order with this if you wanted to make these buttons singularly fixed. I'm not sure if its the same label package that would come with the larger CAN key pads, but it looks very similar. Check out this link to take a look at the key pad lables:

https://racespeconline.com/products/copy-of-motec-can-keypads-1?_pos=4&_sid=6ff52d007&_ss=r&variant=11457623392299

Looking at that dry transfer page, that looks pretty slick for creating your own custom labels.

I've had great success with Billet Automotive Buttons in Australia (https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/), I choose the function of the button that is laser engraved. They have a TON of options or you can even upload an image and they can laser engrave it. I actually had them just make me two high current latching buttons with text on the buttons and around the bezel. One for my battery charger that I want to mount in the car (I need to be able to disconnect it from the battery as it has an LED indicating the charger is connected to the battery and would drain the batter if not disconnected, plus it needed to handle I think 7 amps) and another one for a clutch safety switch bypass (this didn't need high current, but the buttons would have looked different so I ordered both high current to match)>

Shoeless

05-02-2023, 06:49 PM

Been waking up early each day again to do some work on the next harness. First up is the first branch of the WiFi router that will lead to the M170 and C127. This branch has 8 x 24 ga twisted ethernet comms, 2 x 22 ga power and ground, and 3 x 18 ga filler. Holy crap, working with 24 ga wire in 22 ga pins first thing in the morning before fully caffeinated is quite the task LOL.

https://i.imgur.com/V6hJLBn.jpeg

Shoeless

05-04-2023, 04:16 PM

I'll make up a mounting plate to mount the wifi router to the back of the front infinitybox power cell this weekend, but was able to work on some mock up this morning. Thankfully I put a good sized PVC pipe as a crossover from the passenger side to the driver side foot box. The Deutsch AS connector barely passes through. As soon as it gets to the driver's side there will be a T that splits from the C127 Dash lead up front to a bulkhead connector down the tunnel for the M170 ECU connection. Time to cut the M170 leg to length and cover with DR-25. Then I'll shrink the T boot and put the labels and connectors on the ends. I'll likely wait to seal the whole thing up until I do a test run when the hardware gets here.

https://i.imgur.com/M2bYE3O.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/XxsWLVE.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/E8OsHf5.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/eKYF4Qp.jpeg

Shoeless

05-07-2023, 07:34 AM

Got the wifi router permanently mounted and made some more progress on this harness section.

THis was the first time I used a Raychem T shrink molded boot and of course it was challenging being the smallest one they offer in the 322A series. The challenge with T boots is you need to shrink the center section first with out getting any heat on the legs as they are thinner material than the center section and will shrink quickly. Not my best effort, but I think it turned out pretty good.

https://i.imgur.com/PagHnoY.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/T5K1hkG.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/mFIfftk.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/nHw9qUO.jpeg

beeman

05-07-2023, 09:17 AM

Shoeless

05-07-2023, 11:14 AM

Great update as usual.
I have a question on wiring, is there a way to apply a shrink wrap insulator to an intact wire? it would have to be non circumferential obviously. It looks like you did something like that in the last photos. I was not aware there was a product like that, I have always had to cut the wire, placed the circumferential shrink wrap, reapproximate the wire, and apply the shrink wrap.

Thanks beeman, I'm loving that I get to share more of this electrical journey with the group.

There is no product that I know of that you can wrap around an already terminated wire. Each piece that is put in place on these harnesses have to be timed before you terminate the end OR if the shrink molded boot is large enough to slip over the end that is terminated.

For example, in Post 236 photo #2 you see two pieces of Raychem SCL that have been put in place at the "top" of the T and at the "right" leg of the T and then abraded before applying RT125 to seal it. These are put in place because the Shrink Molded T boot finished diameter is larger than the leg, so you have to build it up with something (SCL) so that it seals properly.

Or, in Post 235 photo #1 you have the connector that goes into the WiFi Router with no boot in place. The 90 Degree Raychem 222K121 boot in its unrecovered state is large enough to slide over the already terminated Deutsch AS Connector.

It sucks some times when you already terminate something into a connector and forget the needed SCL on a branch leg, or forget to put the label and clear heat shrink that covers the label in place. I then have to pull the terminated plug off, put on the needed items, and then redo it. Rework sucks LOL.

crash

05-08-2023, 10:14 AM

That is one of the really cool features of using Deutsch plugs. All the pins can be removed from the plug if you forget to put the heat shrink on, or if a pin is in the wrong place, etc. Yes it sucks to have to pull all the pins, but still much better than having to cut and redo a harness. Also, some of the heat shrinks get 4:1 shrink rates so many times you can use a diameter that will fit over a plug and then still shrink down to the proper size. https://www.prowireusa.com/raychem-atum-4-1.html has lots of these.

Shoeless

05-08-2023, 05:30 PM

ATUM is awesome. I have a full spectrum of sizes.

Post 222 pic 1 shows some unrecovered ATUM and then the last pic you can see every DTM plug is strain relieved and covered with ATUM.

Shoeless

05-14-2023, 09:22 AM

I finished up the WiFi sub harness this morning and installed in the GTM. Due to the size of the Deutsch ASL (yes, even as small as that thing is), I elected to run the harness through the grommet near the divers right leg in the foot box and then pin it in the ASL Bulkhead connector. Once I confirm everything is operating as intended, I'll shrink the molded boots.

Now on to creating a simple CAN Harness for the MoTeC Rotary button switch panel.

https://i.imgur.com/nNjLuPR_d.jpg?maxwidth=520&shape=thumb&fidelity=high

Shoeless

05-31-2023, 06:34 AM

Bit of a sad day when you take a running and driving GTM and tear it apart and make it no longer running. Oh well, this is needed to finally dive in head first on the MoTeC conversion.

I started with pulling the Bosch 4.2 O2 sensors and installing the MoTeC NTK O2 and connecting to the LTC Module. I added some hose/wire guides to support the wiring. At this point the GTM will no longer run until MoTeC hardware gets here and I finish the wiring mods. The driver's side was a PITA with the intake and my PCV catch can, but it allowed me time to service that.

https://i.imgur.com/VaV4qE9.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/Q7WoDZg.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/14BYzTi.jpeg

Next up was pulling the engine harness so that I can modify it on my pool table makeshift work bench. Making sure to cap off every Deutsch AS connector to protect them.

https://i.imgur.com/cGtezet.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/S1DNJh3.jpeg

Shoeless

06-04-2023, 07:21 AM

Major surgery had commenced. Now I need to cut this back, consolidate about 14 splices, and then pin in one Deutsch AS Connector.

Interestingly enough, I found a couple wires had cracked near a soldier sleeve (I suspect I put too much heat on it when I did then) and one ground wire that had a small nick in the insulation (can't tell if I did it depinning it or it was there before). Glad I have the opportunity to address these issues.

https://i.imgur.com/muTG7M1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YXcusFF.jpg

crash

06-05-2023, 12:13 PM

Are you using Tefzel wire? I know you said earlier you were using Tefzel but if this is happening with Tefzel, this is the first time I have heard of the kind of stuff you are describing. As I mentioned before, small cuts and nicks can happen easily when unsheathing shielded cabling and extra attention should be taken to not have this issue, but I have never heard of having a heat issue with Tefzel wire. It's jacket is ridiculously strong and durable.

Shoeless

06-06-2023, 05:09 AM

Yep 100% tefzel.

After closer inspection, and the pic below, I can tell this was one of my first soldier sleeves and I put WAY too much heat to it. For soldier sleeves 930 deg F is the ideal and I now have the proper gun and attachment to do it. They literally now take about 5 sec to melt the soldier and by the ends have shrunk so pull off the heat immediately. I remember when I did these originally I was concerned I didn't melt the soldier enough and I think was using my dewalt heat gun and wrong attachment. Either way they all need to be shortened to accommodate the new plugs.

https://i.imgur.com/woMAivl.jpeg

I'm now methodically pulling back the DR25 to the point where the new boot will recover and starting to disassemble to get to those core shielded braided cable to redo them.

https://i.imgur.com/44qO5D8.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/XT96OVy.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/Z6t5nBv.jpeg

Shoeless

06-07-2023, 04:28 PM

I was able to successfully cut back, re-ground the shielding, and re-splice sensor power (5V) and sensor ground for two traction control sensors, cam, crank, and the two knock sensors. Quick continuity check and kapton tape as strain relief and on to doing the same for the other two wheel speed sensors from the other plug.

https://i.imgur.com/KtYwskt.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/m4dHsUk.jpeg

Shoeless

06-14-2023, 05:17 AM

Got up early this morning and knocked our more on the harness modification. First off was putting some Raychem SCL over the DR-25 were I cut it back to in order to provide additional strain relieve and have a nice clean "end" to the DR-25. Even though I will be putting a Raychem boot here, I wanted this a bit more rigid to help with all the further work. Thankfully I had some 1" SCL from my original build, this stuff is like gold trying to get your hands on right now.

https://i.imgur.com/dvsHraE.jpeg

I then started on cutting back and/or placing SCL on some circuits. For example, the old O2 sensor wires all got cut completely back to the edge of the 1" SCL and their respective plug in the harness got cut off and SCL on top to seal it off (making sure to seal off the main relay power wire to the O2s individually). Some of these circuits may or may not ever be used, but i do have flying leads strategically placed in the harness just in case I need a repaired circuit or an expansion. There were a couple permanent 12V wires in this bundle, so they got SCL to cover them up to not cause any issues.

https://i.imgur.com/EkfT1Dm.jpeg

To add further strain relieve I went ahead and wrapped these cut back and SCL applied circuits close around the soldier sleeves as if they were part of the center core of a concentric twist.

https://i.imgur.com/VEiusX1.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/6ViuVJe.jpeg

Before I did all the above I did a 'mock" splicing exercise with zip ties of all 10 splices I need to hide behind this boot. You can see in the pics the shorter of all the wires are the shielded cables I had to cut back and redo. I will likely start to pin this into the connector so that I can see just how much space I have to work with and then methodically start to populate the Deutsch AS connector and executing the splices as I pin the connector. I was to think that through a bit, but it seems like the most logical approach.