Pat’s Truck, back to the Turbo, see post 497

[Pat Landymore]

Hi Everyone:

It is my great pleasure to log the first build post for my ‘35 Truck kit. For now my chosen engine and transmission combination is ‘top secret’ until I can confirm my belief that it isn’t too large, isn’t too heavy and doesn’t have ‘too much power’. As if such a thing exists! LOL

For now, here (hopefully I’m able to upload them...) are a few photos of me picking it up at the US border on Saturday, April 13th.

[Pat Landymore]

it seems my iPhone isn’t allowed to upload photos. I’ll put them on my laptop and upload another time.

[David Hodgkins]

Pat,

I upgraded your account. For help on embedding photos, see this thread:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts

Congratulations on your new build!

:)

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks David. Trying again. 106263106263

[Pat Landymore]

Photo 2106265

[Pat Landymore]

And 106266

[Pat Landymore]

Here it is in my garage today. 106270

[Robodent]

Congrats!! Have fun building. Idk. There might be a sweet spot of 350-425hp

[nbjeeptj]

Ls7 505hp in mine and the power to weight seams just right.

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

Darned photos are still sideways, but, whatever I’ll figure it out eventually.

A view of the current trial installation of my 440lb BBC (minus crank, rods, etc) but with Powerglide attached.

Final location will be approximately + or - 1/2 to 1 inch from where it is now. (Up and/or towards rear of vehicle)

[Pat Landymore]

I chose this engine as I’ve always admired the BBC and I have plenty of LSx and SBC/SBF experiences.

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

The 1990 turbo LSx Mustang is my current ride, the 1968(?) Firebird is a friends car where my Dad and I did the machining for his used diesel blower and I built the carbs and ignition system.

[ztoolman44]

There is something magical about a big block

[Pat Landymore]

Agreed! Hello from Calgary.

[Pat Landymore]

Latest attempt...getting closer to final.
Really liking the ‘normal’ direction the headers can now face. 106934

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

Previous photo is of engine nicely centred

[Pat Landymore]

Should be posting early photos of my mocked up turbo kit later tomorrow or Friday. :-)

[Pat Landymore]

Mock up with turbo106976

[Pat Landymore]

And...106977

[Pat Landymore]

Fitting of turbo is slowly getting closer, but there’s still a way to go. Downpipe shown. 107010

[Pat Landymore]

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A lot of things done but perhaps not looking like it in this photo.

Taken by my buddy Joey yesterday afternoon.

Currently in that mode of the e-brake affects...where I mount my PG shifter...which then might affect where I put the accelerator pedal...and so on and....

[herb fraser]

Looking good !

[Pat Landymore]

I haven’t posted in this part of the forum for quite a while. A busy summer with other things in life.
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Making nice progress with the box right now. I’m guessing there will be some disagreement with my methods, but I believe it’s going to turn out fine. The goal is to be able to remove the box in almost one chunk. Will make servicing and future modifications so much easier.
Once the floor is out the rest of the box will come down at the rear and then straight back for removal.

[Robodent]

Sounds like a good plan. Don’t worry about what anyone thinks ! It’s your gig

[bnelson]

I haven’t posted in this part of the forum for quite a while. A busy summer with other things in life.
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Making nice progress with the box right now. I’m guessing there will be some disagreement with my methods, but I believe it’s going to turn out fine. The goal is to be able to remove the box in almost one chunk. Will make servicing and future modifications so much easier.
Once the floor is out the rest of the box will come down at the rear and then straight back for removal.

I was looking at same thing. Ended up going with side removal and making the rest one piece. Still in progress. Haven't figured out the back yet :(

[Pat Landymore]

My overall plan includes elevating the back of the truck about 1ft during removal. I will be trimming off the lips along the bottom of the box sides forward of the rear wheels to allow me to slide it back without too much flexing of the sides.
The rear fenders and stake pockets should help support the box sides.


Looking forward to seeing more photos of your approach!

[Pat Landymore]

Seems like success, managed to remove the complete box on my own just by hand and not too much flexing. Need to trim the lips a bit more to make it easier.

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[Pat Landymore]

Finished the box today. Tried to move the stake pockets around so my pocket holder bolts would also work as box mounting bolts. The alignment didn’t work. So I’ve decided to glue the stale pockets on, drill holes through for box mounting bolts and then I’ll find paintable body plugs down the road.

Already using the nice wood bed as an extra workbench...very handy.

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[ztoolman44]

Kinda diggin' the flatbed look. Nice work

[sperger72]

We are going with full one piece bed. Will see soon if it will come off of chassis without issue.

Zach

[Pat Landymore]

Good luck, I hope it works out great!

Was busy today on mine but not much would show up in a photo despite 7hrs in the shop...

I know everyone on the forum can relate LOL :)

[Pat Landymore]

There is this...115484

[Pat Landymore]

I just want to add a warning to anyone doing a wood bed.

Based on my experience, do not use a water based varnish without additional preparations! It will pull the soft grain up and look awful unless you use a solvent based sanding sealer first. And then sand, and sand and...,

I tried the water based varnish straight up on the underside of my wood bed and it was terrible. Very rough. It was a ‘Professional Outdoor Semi Gloss’ finish. Horribly rough despite sanding per the recommendations on the can.

Thankfully being the underside I really don’t care very much.

For the top side I switched to a good ol Solvent based (very smelly) finish and...voila! Perfect even with less sanding than before.

[herb fraser]

I just want to add a warning to anyone doing a wood bed.

Based on my experience, do not use a water based varnish without additional preparations! It will pull the soft grain up and look awful unless you use a solvent based sanding sealer first. And then sand, and sand and...,

I tried the water based varnish straight up on the underside of my wood bed and it was terrible. Very rough. It was a ‘Professional Outdoor Semi Gloss’ finish. Horribly rough despite sanding per the recommendations on the can.

Thankfully I tested it on the underside of the bed where I really don’t care very much.

For the top side I switched to a good ol Solvent based (very smelly) finish and...voila! Perfect even with less sanding than before.
Excellent advise , I never liked waterborne clear finishes

[Pat Landymore]

A great day to be in the garage, it’s the second week in a row we’ve had snow here.
Installing brake lines today.
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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

A busy day yesterday ‘editing’ the transmission tunnel. I need all the room I can get for my size 13 runners! Note cut out for shift linkage...it allows me to move the tunnel nearly 1-1/2” inboard. Will use some sheet aluminum and pop rivet it back into one piece today and then install some riv-nuts for easy removal later on.

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

Also got my shifter solidly mounted directly to the transmission.

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[Pat Landymore]

Decided to mostly glue the trans tunnel together as it will be stronger. A few pop rivers though. Shifter adjusted and neutral/reverse light switches in. Then decided to see where the wiring will go as my throttle is being a pain. A big block Chevy starts with the name ‘big’ for a reason! Either a head or valve cover is in the way of the throttle cable. I’ve come up with a McGuyver solution ( my favourite kind LOL :D ).

Will post that up in the next day or two.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116033[/ATTACH

[bnelson]

Decided to mostly glue the trans tunnel together as it will be stronger. A few pop rivers though. Shifter adjusted and neutral/reverse light switches in. Then decided to see where the wiring will go as my throttle is being a pain. A big block Chevy starts with the name ‘big’ for a reason! Either a head or valve cover is in the way of the throttle cable. I’ve come up with a McGuyver solution ( my favourite kind LOL :D ).

Will post that up in the next day or two.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116033[/ATTACH

Man I feel your pain. I'm trying to get the tunnel to fit my 4L60E and it is not working out real well. I've cut the tunnel into four pieces and am glassing back together to fit around the pan and into seat. Not fun :(

[Pat Landymore]

My McGuyver attempt at the throttle didn’t work out. Need to think more...

In the meantime decided to lay out all the wiring so I know other places the linkage/cable can’t be.

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

And I made my gauge panel removable with four screw and pulled all the excess wiring out of FFR’s gauge harness

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[rponfick]

What seats are you using, bucket or bench. Have you test fit the seat over the tunnel if it is the bench model?
Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

Howdy Ralph:
I have the standard bench seat. It fits with a just little shoving down. I’ll be raising it 2-3 inches for my comfort so it will fit better after that.
Pat

[Pat Landymore]

Lots of little items cleared from the list today. The one I’m most happy with is the mounting system for my road race/triathlon bicycles. 116296

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

I’m fairly certain many before me plus a lot of those to follow are where I’m at right now....

You get SO frustrated doing some small task in the build that takes forever. :rolleyes:
Then you put the seat in and sit inside of what you’re creating and say “Dang! This is the coolest hot rod I’ve ever seen...it’s mine and I’m building it!”

[Pat Landymore]

Finally got the hydraulic portion of the brakes installed and bled the other day, that was interesting working on my own.

Today’s work...A spy photo inside my fuel tank showing the Holley Hydramat on the end of my newly fabricated 1/2” ID fuel pickup tube. The other tube closer to the camera was the original pickup, now turned into a -6 AN return.

It was of course more work than it looks like now.
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Isn’t that always how it goes! LOL :rolleyes:

[Pat Landymore]

A decent day today mounting my AEM pump and regulator plus mounting the fuel filter. Got all the lines cut roughly to final length and some fittings started to be installed. One photo shows the aircraft style ‘master contactor’ that will be used to completely shut down all power from the battery to the truck.

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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This is the master contactor.

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Lucky you, hoping it gets below the nineties this week end. Got my long eared bushing housings being coated; I'll let you know

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks Mike, I’m really interested to see a photo of how they fit once you get them installed.
We’re heading down to a low of 0F this weekend...
I’ll trade you! :D

[Pat Landymore]

I spent the past weekend working on my garage instead of the truck...all but one panel of drywall up on the ceiling and a bunch of insulation up there too. It’s much warmer now!

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[Pat Landymore]

It seems I’ve been scooped on my engine combo for the ’35!
I hope HotRod magazine and Richard Holdener don’t mind me linking this....
For the record I’m building using the Holley Super Sniper 1250 and an 88mm T6 Borg-ish turbo.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/junkyard-454-163-ebay-turbo-700-hp/

[bnelson]

It seems I’ve been scooped on my engine combo for the ’35!
I hope HotRod magazine and Richard Holdener don’t mind me linking this....
For the record I’m building using the Holley Super Sniper 1250 and an 88mm T6 Borg-ish turbo.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/junkyard-454-163-ebay-turbo-700-hp/

I have a SBC stroker with Sniper and having nothing but problems with it. Would love to talk to someone with experience with these if possible? Other than Holley trying to figure out why its all in my setup. It could be but they are sure not helping me figure it out :(

[Pat Landymore]

Today’s fun was figuring out where to mount my AEM water-meth kit and then getting started on it. Also some more routing of various wiring in the truck. Last item today, finally completed the work in my basement to facilitate a second circuit in the garage. Now there are so many outlets...it’s awesome :)

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

I’ve been back at my previous work as a contractor so haven’t had much time in the past almost three weeks. A cool cooincidence though, a local driveshaft shop is directly on my drive to work. So I measured up and took it in to be (re) built several inches longer early this week. ( length increase due to the Powerglide)

The driveshaft wouldn’t fit today due to the cross member at the rear of the foam sandwich floor... the transmission is a bit too far forward and short, the driveshaft a bit long and my suspension height a bit too high.

All of these are my fault, but not one am I willing to give up. I’ll figure it out.

So I had to cut 4-5” out of the rear floor, including a non essential cross member. Will install a driveshaft safely loop kit tomorrow to make up strength and safety.
Will try to post up photos but this website keeps kicking my iPhone out when I try, so it may be an hour.

[Pat Landymore]

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This is a before photo. The rear of the driveshaft is sitting on top of the diff. You can see it’s fairly close to the floor despite being up on top...

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

The photo second above is part way through the surgery, the last photo will be at the end of it. Still touching the floor so have decided to raise rear of transmission 1/2”.

[Pat Landymore]

My experience leaves me wondering about SBC-TH350 and LSx-4L65E people...how close is your clearance at this point when the truck is sitting normally?

Or more importantly, jacked up in the rear by the frame...??

[Pat Landymore]

Got the safety loop installed today after significantly modifying it so it looks a bit better.
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[Pat Landymore]

Today was random items as in truth, sometimes I prefer that way of working. Rebuilt the rear transmission mount 1/2” higher, then moved on to finishing some of the fuel lines, and then on to tidying up and completing some of the wiring aft of the cab.

[Pat Landymore]

The transmission mount after rebuild

[Pat Landymore]

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Upload hopefully corrected now

[Pat Landymore]

Last failed one corrected

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[Pat Landymore]

What does anyone think of my old school dimmer switch? :D

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[bnelson]

What does anyone think of my old school dimmer switch? :D

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Its sweet! I'm doing the same thing. What P/N did you use? I planned on doing that exact same thing but have not researched the correct P/N.

[Pat Landymore]

Howdy Bruce:
I purchased the OMIX-ADA Dimmer Switch 17233.02 from Summit. Next least expensive is the ACDelco Replacement Switch pn# 12338706 from them. You might find these cheaper elsewhere, but I had a Summit order coming anyways so the combined freight levelled the price for me.

[bnelson]

Howdy Bruce:
I purchased the OMIX-ADA Dimmer Switch 17233.02 from Summit. Next least expensive is the ACDelco Replacement Switch pn# 12338706 from them. You might find these cheaper elsewhere, but I had a Summit order coming anyways so the combined freight levelled the price for me.

Thanks Pat. I'm going by Summit Friday so will pick one up while I'm there. Nice having them just 50 miles from me :)

[rponfick]

I have that type of dimmer switch in my roadster, but a word of caution. One night coming home after dark, I went to switch to low beam, and everything went dark. Luckily I was only a few blocks from home.
The wiring to the switch was easily disconnected by sloppy clutch engagement, or missing the dimmer a little bit, and hitting the wiring, and unplugging the switch. All lighting goes thru the switch and it gets real dark quickly.
I used some zip-ties to firmly keep the wiring in the switch.
Just sharing a little of my excitement.
Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

Hi Ralph:
Appreciate the heads up!

I cut my teeth on various trucks on our family farm in my youth, (1939 through 1972 varieties ) all with the same type of dimmer. Understand the potential issue.

I will add a few ty-wraps per your suggestion. :)

The other thing I would suggest to anyone else considering this option is a layer of insulation between the dimmer and the floor. The dimmer switch is ‘Hot’, and the floorboards are ground.
Dead short if anything goes astray.

Thanks!

[Pat Landymore]

Have my tail lights bolted on and both front fenders and running boards roughly in place...just clamped for now. Fibreglass is kind of weird for me to work with... seems I can shuffle positions 1/2” or more with relative ease. Last pickup I built was steel...around 35 years ago.
This is going to be one of those measure 6x before drilling any holes deals.

My “tomorrow work”!
LOL :D

[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

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[bnelson]

Have my tail lights bolted on and both front fenders and running boards roughly in place...just clamped for now. Fibreglass is kind of weird for me to work with... seems I can shuffle positions 1/2” or more with relative ease. Last pickup I built was steel...around 35 years ago.
This is going to be one of those measure 6x before drilling any holes deals.

My “tomorrow work”!
LOL :D

I cant imagine! I just completed all the gaps and molding alignment on doors, hood, cowl and got everything taken apart for final block, seal, and paint. Cant imagine having to get all the fenders, side panels and the rest aligned as well!

PS: Got my dimmer switch hooked up. Works great :) Ended up getting one that had an insulated connector housing with pigtail to connect. No worries about shorting. Little more expensive but came with carpet trim ring as well.

[rponfick]

Have my tail lights bolted on and both front fenders and running boards roughly in place...just clamped for now. Fibreglass is kind of weird for me to work with... seems I can shuffle positions 1/2” or more with relative ease. Last pickup I built was steel...around 35 years ago.
This is going to be one of those measure 6x before drilling any holes deals.

My “tomorrow work”!
LOL :D

I had to move my rear fender/running board further forward than manual specifies. My front tire would not center in wheel opening until I moved everything forward a bit.
Maybe yours is different.

Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks for the input Ralph, I was already testing it a bit and wondering if that’s what I need to do.

What kind of number did you use at the rear of cab to front of back fender?
I’m at 12-1/2” now and looks like I need to decrease that to move things forward more...

[Pat Landymore]

Nice find with your dimmer switch Bruce, did you get it at Summit?

Re doors....I’m not looking forward to that particular test of my patience... :D LOL

[rponfick]

Pat, think I used about a full inch forward. Can't remember or measure right now because everything is apart. Just tried to get the front wheel centered in opening as best as possible. The rear of my rear fender was even with the bed sides.
I am in the middle of the door test of patience you mentioned.
Ralph

[KenWilkinson]

I cant imagine! I just completed all the gaps and molding alignment on doors, hood, cowl and got everything taken apart for final block, seal, and paint. Cant imagine having to get all the fenders, side panels and the rest aligned as well!

PS: Got my dimmer switch hooked up. Works great :) Ended up getting one that had an insulated connector housing with pigtail to connect. No worries about shorting. Little more expensive but came with carpet trim ring as well.


I have a Painless Dimmer (floor mount) Part # 80150. I checked it with my expensive Fluke meter and no shorts to the case from and of the connections.

[Pat Landymore]

Got behind the dash and started tidying up that mess today...it’s coming, but connecting my Holley Super Sniper, AFR Meter and electronic fuel pressure gauge will take up most of tomorrow before I’m done.

The fuse between the two junction blocks is to protect the headlight circuit. There are two feeds going to the switch as delivered...one is fused and best I can tell the other isn’t. It is now :)


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[Pat Landymore]

Ken, that’s great, Painless stuff is always really nice.

[Pat Landymore]

Got quite a bit done the past few days. I think most everything is correctly connected, rebuilt my shifter mount and finally have the transmission tunnel fitting ok.


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[Pat Landymore]

The interior is finally beginning to look like a real truck :)

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[Pat Landymore]

And the drivers door process begins...

:confused:

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[Pat Landymore]

Still working on fitment of the drivers door....

On a happier note, have my A/F ratio, fuel pressure and antique boost gauge fitted now.

The latter has been in every hot rod I’ve built in the last 35++ years... It’s actually a WW2 era manifold pressure gauge from an aircraft.

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[Pat Landymore]

Spent a chunk of today messing with the drivers door and very little progress.

After checking various blog posts, I decided to gut the door and install just the hardware bare on the truck to find (one of...?) the source of my problems. Look at the difference between gap of upper and lower hinge to inner door mounting plate. Will require a significant shim on the inside of the door to rectify this.

The rear plate is almost parallel without any tweaking.

:confused:

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[Pat Landymore]

Any suggestions?

[Robodent]

Hang in there it’s the most challenging part of the build. Rob

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks, I will.
Suspect I will have learned to curse in Klingon by the time I’m done though!
LOL :D

[Robodent]

Pm sent.

[Pat Landymore]

Got it, thanks!

[rponfick]

I had to build up a lot on the inside of the door to get the inside metal brace to fit flush in the hinge area.
Now, got the inner metal to fit inside the door, but having a lot of fun hanging the doors. I have elongated the support bracket holes in the part that bolts to the frame to get the doors to move further to the rear, but think I will have to work on them some more.
Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks for your reply Ralph. I’ve concluded I’ve also got to build my doors up on the inside, both to get the bracket to sit flat and they seem a bit thin there for supporting weight. I’ll post up how it goes.

Will also post up photos of the complete inner door assembly bolted up to the truck. It’s quite helpful to see where the material needs to be placed.

[McGuyver]

Looking forward to seeing what you have come up with. This is one of several areas that concern me. Thanks for posting.

[Pat Landymore]

I’ll begin with the end product..the nicely fitting drivers door.



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[Pat Landymore]

After struggles mentioned above, I assembled all my inner door guts on the truck to have a look see...

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[Pat Landymore]

This is actually a cool trick IMHO as you can easily see how adjusting each different point affects the fit. Also please notice if you blow the photos up that the gap between the lower hinge is larger than the upper one...more so on the drivers side. Why? Could be how I’ve plopped my cab on, honestly don’t know.

I messed with things til the door guts closed nicely all on their own and then marked them for reference.

[Pat Landymore]

So I decided not only to fibreglass the inside of the door, but on the drivers side ( because it was quite thin) I fibreglassed in a 9 or 10” long chunk of 3/16” flat bar to support the lower hinge. It stops roughly half way up the door.
The passenger side door was a little bit thicker so just used fibreglass. Will install it tomorrow.

Drivers side..,
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Passenger side...

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[Pat Landymore]

At the end of it all the drivers side door pretty much installed directly to the level in the first photo with no struggle other than a couple of trips with the jigsaw and a few more with the orbital sander.
A big shout out to Tony at FFR this morning for his great support as I started this door stuff. :)

[Pat Landymore]

Passenger side door fitted today. More trimming and adjustment needed but it’s not looking bad. I figure a day and a half to two days each to get them finished the way I want them.

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The shims I’m trying between door and hinge...

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Battery is mounted available for testing power windows when they’re ready

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[rponfick]

Pat, I glassed up the area where the hinge fits on the door to keep pressure off door skin seam. Worked pretty well, and adds more strength. Still working on fit on mine.


Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks for the suggestion Ralph, I’ll consider it. Want to try again today with a different shape of shim, as knowing my fibreglass work, the shim will look a lot better. LOL :D

I’m a bit spooked about cutting the doors so the windows and rubber will fit correctly...those cuts seem a lot more irreversible than the work I’ve been doing so far.

[Pat Landymore]

So I spent a chunk of today on ( no surprise here...) the doors.

I think I’ve come up with a better way of getting them more or less right. My drivers side door I fibreglassed plus 3/16 steel on the lower inside. I had only fibreglassed the inside of the passenger door. I tried a couple of different shims between the door and the hinge, not getting much further.

After more frustration I took it all apart again. Today I cut the front door bracket, bent it so it fits the front of the door correctly, welded it back up and bolted it all back together with my thinnest shims between hinge and door. Passenger side door works quite well now!

Front passenger side door bracket before modification:

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After modification:
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It fits well now top and bottom at the front of the door plus the carriage bolts at the rear line up nicely too.

[Pat Landymore]

I also cut both doors to get an appropriate space for the window rubbers plus the window.

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[rponfick]

Pat, what gap did you aim at around the door glass fitting area? Same gap all the way around?

Thanks, Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

I’m starting with what I believe is a bit small... 0.67-0.69”.
Doing the same everywhere until I learn more.

[Pat Landymore]

I couldn’t handle working on the doors two days in a row, particularly after a nice box of parts from Summit arrived this morning. LOL
:D

So instead I installed the heater core that arrived, wired it and installed my defroster vents. I think it was the weatherman’s fault as he’s been telling us we’re down into the minus 30’s C by the weekend. :eek:

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[Pat Landymore]

Will try reloading the photos again...right way up

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[Pat Landymore]

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[Pat Landymore]

Wow, I think I’ve finally conquered my doors!

A week of being frozen out of my garage, another week of goofing off, finally got back to it.

What i did is changed my game plan. Please see attached photos, I think they will explain my logic...

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[Pat Landymore]

Once I had the hinges in alignment by this method, the passenger side door evolved quickly to fit well. The drivers side...ahem, I tried playing by the rules to no avail. Finally fabbed up a roughly 3/16” spacer between the lower hinge and the door, reinstalled it, loosened the hinge attachment points inside the cab, gave everything a shake and retightened the hinge attachments. It’s an 80-85% fit now. Good enough for me to move onwards. I can tweak in a year if I feel like it. :D

[rponfick]

Pat, I used a long threaded rod to slip between my door hinges to line up (yours looks like a wooden dowel), same principal. We struggle, but come up with similar ideas.
I may go out to the garage today to think about my doors. I have been letting them "simmer" for the past two weeks, hoping they will straighten themselves out. I like your idea of waiting a year to finalize. You have to get to the other assembly items.
Keep us advised.
Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

I did a random item on the truck that has been bothering me for a long time, making supports for the rear fenders.

Photo below.

Yes, they are pop riveted to the fenders...for now. When I remove the box next time I’ll fibreglass them in, drill out and fill the pop rivet hole.
On the bright side, the fenders are much more solid now.

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[Pat Landymore]

Per my question on the other thread, I also drilled drainage holes in my doors today.

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[Pat Landymore]

I’m completely moving on from the doors for now but still have them sticking out a bit at the bottom.

Will figure it out eventually.

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[rponfick]

That ample "C" clamp should hold them in nicely.
We are still having fun.
Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

LOL!
It’s been very handy for many things on this build :D

[Pat Landymore]

I’ve decided the time has come for me to build my Big Block and Powerglide. I’ve had the components for a while now...it feels like time for a (FUN!!) change.

Will be about 2 weeks in total, plus the rest of my turbo kit.

First I had to take it back out by myself...

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[Pat Landymore]

Prior to that I removed heads intake etc that I had mocked up.

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[Pat Landymore]

Then out it came and on to the engine stand. I had the block fully machined previously and have an Eagle rotating assembly plus a full Trick Flow 280 cc top end kit. Hopefully everything plays nicely together and this part of my build will progress quickly.

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[Pat Landymore]

Unless there is a huge mistake in some vendors machining; engine, trans and turbo kit will be all home built.

[RuffShod]

Did you change the front springs to handle the weight of the big block?

[Pat Landymore]

At this point I haven’t.

My reasoning is that everything, except the block, will be aluminum and I’m using a Powerglide trans which is far lighter than 700R4,4Lxx and 6Lxx transmissions.

My guess is my big block combo will weigh in similar or less than an iron small block (or iron block LS) with the much heavier transmission. I have a scale for my chain hoist so will have accurate weight once the engine is assembled. Ill post its weight here in my build thread.

[Pat Landymore]

A couple of decent days building Mr Big Block. I think I’ll be done tomorrow other than installing the oil pump pickup tube and final bolt up of the pan. Waiting on Amazon for delivery of the tool for that job... Setting up the valve train in the morning. Hopefully on to my transmission the day after.

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[RuffShod]

Lookin good!

[Pat Landymore]

Big block complete!
122462

And Survey Says!

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[Pat Landymore]

So on to the transmission.
I’m going to take a day or two off to allow my garage ( and me) to de-fumigate from all the solvents used to prep my engine build.

The chain hoist was used up as I couldn’t move my big block out from underneath it so had to get a bit creative and lift the transmission by myself onto the engine hoist.

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The three stages of lifting something an older guy like me probably shouldn’t be lifting on his own LOL :D

[Pat Landymore]

All ready for installing a shift kit and deep sump pan on the transmission tomorrow.
Flexplate and torque converter to follow after that.

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[Pat Landymore]

Wow, sometimes the aftermarket gives, and all too often it takes away. Today was definitely in the latter category.

Tried installing the flexplate today but there was a bolt that fought me. Had to run the 7/16” NF tap through a brand new, $900.00 crank to get it to fit. Then the flexplate didn’t have enough radius for my ARP flexplate bolts, so 20 minutes of radiusing and cleaning everything up later it all fit correctly. Brand new parts...

Then, I fully opened my nice new (brand name deleted) shift improver kit, only to discover there is a ‘servo spring’ listed in the “what this kit contains” list and of course included in the kit...but nary a word of instruction OR the required gasket for the cover to replace the one that will inevitably crack when I remove it.

What the heck?!
Are these people Neanderthals??

Thank goodness it’s Valentine’s Day and I can take my wife out for dinner, a drink and conversation not relating to car stuff.

[Pat Landymore]

The adventure continues...

So I taught myself about all the things that could go wrong changing the servo spring and got that done this morning.

Then I removed the tailshaft housing and replaced the bushing and the ( red locktighted in :mad: ) tailshaft seal.

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On to the actual shift kit. I hit the point in the instructions where I’m supposed to drill the separator plate at locations marked ‘B’ but no where in the instructions is something that tells me where B is!

Wow...

I’ve emailed the manufacturer after finding my instructions are basically the same as, and newer than, what is online. Hopefully they get back to me soon. If not I’ll do some research and just make my own shift kit.

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Meantime I’m going to take a couple of days off from this project.

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[ztoolman44]

Some days are like that. Its not just you.

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks!
A great reminder that I’m not alone in this hot rodding adventure
:)

[RuffShod]

Looks like you are havin fun!!!

[Pat Landymore]

Transmission completed and joined up the the engine.

Back to working on the truck...

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[Pat Landymore]

And the final weight of engine and transmission is...

661 lbs incl the converter filled with ATF.

[Pat Landymore]

Spent bits n pieces of the last couple days running hard line in a few different places


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[Pat Landymore]

And starting in on my High Tension ignition wiring...

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[rponfick]

Tranny lines to front? Where do you plan to put your cooler? Or, are they just temporarily pointing in that direction?
Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

Howdy Ralph:
You’ll see in the coming weeks. The cooler will be mounted in front of the radiator.
Cheers,
Pat

[Pat Landymore]

Its going to get crowded on the right hand side of the engine area as my build progresses...

[Pat Landymore]

Today I fabricated and installed seat risers, approximately 3” high. Will post photos of those tomorrow, I’m inside now.

The other major work was removing the front end bodywork and disassembling the front suspension.

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Two reasons; first, to install my new longer lower suspension hinge points (longer tabs), and second, to install a QA1 bump steer kit.

I’m doing this because the ride height of this truck will be higher than recommended. I used a Foxbody Mustang kit as a lot of the front suspension in the truck is simply is bass ackwards compared to a Mustang, so it’s perfect.


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Those boys use this kit to fix bad suspension angles when they lower a car, I’m using it for correction because I’m raising mine!!
It looks so far like it will work as planned.

I know I may be wrong doing this but my hunch-o-meter tells otherwise to going to give it a shot.

[Pat Landymore]

The white wire some of you may notice in the first photo above is for the front side marker lamps. In my jurisdiction side marker lamps apparently are not supposed to come on with the DRL’s, they need to be wired into the tail lamp circuit so they only operate when the switch is in park or headlight mode.

Regulations. As long as they let me register it I’ll play ball with them.

[rponfick]

Do you have the newer chassis with multiple front suspension mount holes. Mine is very early (#15), so I am stuck with what I have. I hate the lowness of the grill and running board supports that barely clear my drive way, even at an angle approach. Not sure the demographic FFR was aiming at. I wish I had options to get mine higher also.
Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

Howdy Ralph!

Yes, mine is the newer frame with multiple holes, sn# ending in 59.

[Pat Landymore]

Of course the installation of aftermarket parts makes it necessary to further modify the parts one already has :rolleyes:

In this instance it was shortening the steering rack tie rods approx 3/4 inch so the QA1 bump steer kit will fit correctly.

Here it is before shortening, I would have had about 1-1/2” toe in this way.

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How much was removed

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A view of completed installation

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[Pat Landymore]

Here’s a photo of my seat riser referred to a couple of days ago. 2” angle iron with enough overlap to bolt together. Makes installing the carpet much easier.

123453

[Pat Landymore]

Per Ralph’s question on February 23rd, here are two photos of my transmission cooler installation coming together

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[Pat Landymore]

I also modified my Super Sniper to a progressive linkage

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[Pat Landymore]

Mr Big Block is back in the truck. Will bolt him in fully tomorrow and begin on the (many) other tasks ahead. I may decide to rig up the engine temporarily just to fire him up briefly later in the week.

He’s a bit of a beast as was installing by myself.
Overall a fun day :D


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[rponfick]

A beast to say the least. Should make the truck move.
Ralph

[RuffShod]

Thatsa lotta motor!!!

[Pat Landymore]

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:D

It will be a whole lotta more motor when I start fabbing up a home made kit for an 88mm turbo I have sitting in the garage! LOL
Coming next week...
Cheers ��

[RuffShod]

Gonna be hard to hook up!!!

[Pat Landymore]

Turbo kit fabrication is delayed a couple more days as I had to make a hard right turn with my plans. More parts arriving Monday from Summit that will reignite my imagination and get it back on track.

Meanwhile completed installing the hardline for the trans cooler.

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[Pat Landymore]

Yay....,...just frikken yay.

So I go to install my brand new Performance World 150 Amp single wire alternator on ‘35 with the gorgeous new chrome alternator bracket I received (two days early) from Summit Racing.

What could possibly go wrong?
Oh wait a minute, it’s me! So plenty.

I had to “clearance grind” the alternator plus grind the heck out of the underside of the little bracket above the alternator plus drill the bolt hole larger so everything would play nice together. ⚡️

Once again, a five minute job was an hour and a half. I’m not laying blame, this just seems to be a typical day in the life when a guy is trapped in the aftermarket auto parts world. And again it gives me huge respect for the OEMs and how they build 500 cars in a single shift!!

Photos below. Must say, once done it does look great.

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[Pat Landymore]

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[bnelson]

Yay....,...just frikken yay.

So I go to install my brand new Performance World 150 Amp single wire alternator on ‘35 with the gorgeous new chrome alternator bracket I received (two days early) from Summit Racing.

What could possibly go wrong?
Oh wait a minute, it’s me! So plenty.

I had to “clearance grind” the alternator plus grind the heck out of the underside of the little bracket above the alternator plus drill the bolt hole larger so everything would play nice together. ⚡️

Once again, a five minute job was an hour and a half. I’m not laying blame, this just seems to be a typical day in the life when a guy is trapped in the aftermarket auto parts world. And again it gives me huge respect for the OEMs and how they build 500 cars in a single shift!!

Photos below. Must say, once done it does look great.

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Dose look nice :)

[Pat Landymore]

A much better day today...early stages of the turbo kit taking form.

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[bnelson]

A much better day today...early stages of the turbo kit taking form.

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Gonna be a beast!

You might try turning your phone horizontal and pictures should come out right side up :)

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks!
I thought I tried that but I’ll try again with my next update.
:)

[bnelson]

Thanks!
I thought I tried that but I’ll try again with my next update.
:)

Worked for me but no telling what affects what when posting here. :)

[Pat Landymore]

A fairly good day.

Turbo drain line fabricated...which meant I had to un-dumb some of the turbo parts I’d purchased, turbo drain line to be specific. Think the photos will explain the sizing issue resolved.

All in the for the better once I was done.

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[Pat Landymore]

Hopefully all the photos are correct way around!

[Pat Landymore]

Some progress on the downpipe today. Came back in and posted correctly oriented photos.

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[Pat Landymore]

More progress today.

Trial mounting wastegate, cutting the turbo blanket and fabbing up some hard line for boost reference on wastegate and loud valve.

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[rponfick]

Wow. That is going to be hard to fit under the hood. Joke.
Ralph

[Pat Landymore]

Lol!

:D

[RuffShod]

Mad skillz, brother!

[Pat Landymore]

I took the entire turbo kit off the truck today and slowly began finish welding it with plenty of checks for distortion and major movement.

Tomorrow’s task is modifying the passenger side exhaust manifold. This is due to me using an inverted drivers side manifold on the pass side of the truck. It makes an awesome and strong turbo mount, but due to how GM designed the Rat motor heads around 55 years ago, the bolt holes line up but the ports are ‘out’ by between 1/8 and 1/4”. So I’ll drill out the bolt holes a bit larger and then do some gasket matching type porting. I knew this going in almost a year ago when I decided to do a big block, now is the time for this task.

LSx guys ( me on my previous turbo LSx Mustang build) are lucky; you can flip manifolds around to your hearts content and everything still lines up.

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[Pat Landymore]

In my world, it seems fitting my desired power plant always requires body surgery, in this instance the passenger side fender.

Oh well...I still want what I originally wanted, so now ‘today me’ needs to make it all fit. LOL :D

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[bnelson]

In my world, it seems fitting my desired power plant always requires body surgery, in this instance the passenger side fender.

Oh well...I still want what I originally wanted, so now ‘today me’ needs to make it all fit. LOL :D

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That's a whole lot of intricate plumbing Pat. I'm having a hard time envisioning the final outcome so look forward to the finished product :)

[RuffShod]

Thatsa weird place for a hole saw....

[Pat Landymore]

I know, eh?
Just using it to show where I’ll be doing surgery to the turbine housing, likely today. :D

[Pat Landymore]

These photos are for Ruffshod.

Here’s what the hole saw was about...cutting a hole in my $1k turbo for the wastegate.
It’s on my barbecue for pre welding heat and post welding stress relief.
LOL

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[RuffShod]

I bet you had to grit your teeth....when ya pulled the trigger on your drill motor!!!

My truck is still in the box....until my wifes chicken coop is finished and my 70 Bronco is runnin.

[Pat Landymore]

You bet I was!
Even more so post welding as I was listening for the sharp clinking sound of cast iron cracking as of course the turbo is made of the finest Chinesium alloy...
Didn’t hear any.
Honesty it welded up great with my cheap MIG so I think it’s quite decent metal.

Out in the shop now trying to figure out a nice transition from my 3.5” downpipe to one side of the stock FFR exhaust system. Don’t worry about back pressure, there is a plan in play for that!

What I’m trying to pull off is a transition pipe that can be readily removed, leaving the one muffler intact, allowing me to install a 3-1/2” open dump just ahead of the passenger side door.

May be trying for too much...a day or two of work and I’ll know what I can pull off.
:D

[Pat Landymore]

Turbo system update.

It appears that mission has been accomplished.


I’ve completed my day to day downpipe that ends in the FFR exhaust, added the loud valve to greatly reduce back pressure under boost, and made what I call my ‘Bad Pat’ downpipe, a 3-1/2” open end with no muffling exiting beside the passenger door. Anyone want to guess which one I like best?

I’ll post up some photos next.

[Pat Landymore]

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This is the 4” loud valve that fully opens up by 4-5 psi boost

[Pat Landymore]

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Overview of completed system with loud valve installed.

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[Pat Landymore]

A look at my nice guy downpipe and single FFR exhaust

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This pipe goes from the 3-1/2” downpipe to a 2-1/2” Vee band clamp welded to the front of the FFR ~~2-1/4” muffler

[Pat Landymore]

Here’s a noisy end view of my bad guy pipe!
LOL :D

I’ll try this again.....125966

[Pat Landymore]

A buddy sent this to me today.

I find it really funny as I’ve owned two of the three and am building the third.

:D

125977

[Pat Landymore]

Honestly it doesn’t matter as they’re all fun!!

[Pat Landymore]

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[bnelson]

Holy cow Pat. That's quite the contraption! Looks like you know what your doing though :) How soon till you can fire it up?

[Pat Landymore]

I’ve been telling myself a week or so for a month plus now... but honestly, I think in around a week.

Copy you on contraption...my favourite kind of hot rod :D

Do you know how to post videos here from an iPhone, or so I just post a link to my Facebook page?

[bnelson]

I’ve been telling myself a week or so for a month plus now... but honestly, I think in around a week.

Copy you on contraption...my favourite kind of hot rod :D

Do you know how to post videos here from an iPhone, or so I just post a link to my Facebook page?

I don't. Have not tried yet but I think you need to post link to you tube or Facebook or the like. Cant wait to hear that thing!

[Pat Landymore]

Gentlemen (and any Ladies present...)

Here is my completed turbo kit!

Tomorrow going back into the truck for hopefully the last time.

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Factory manifold on wrong side of engine, upside down and drilled/ported as a turbo mount.

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[Pat Landymore]

An old photo, but the sentiment holds....


#isolationburnouts
Or
#garageburnouts

Haha ��

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[VIRGIN MIKE]

Drove mine today for the first time (out of the parking lot- -lost my build space, had to move home) felt like a rocketship, you sure you got enough power?

how did you mount the fenders without a shroud

[Pat Landymore]

Sorry to learn you lost your space.

I think I’ll have plenty! That’s the nice thing about a turbo, just turn down the waste gate if I start scaring myself too often. That and the 2 speed Powerglide will make if quite drivable.

As for the front fenders...

- 1 rivnut/bolt per side to the cab
- 1 rivnut/bolt per side to my custom engine mount support via a fabricated bracket
- 2 rivnuts/bolts per side to the radiator support and shell

I plan to fab up another pair of brackets and supports if that seems too floppy once I drive it

[VIRGIN MIKE]

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used a ⅜ X 4 x 16 aluminum plate bolted to radiator bracket. Holds cowl tight to grille and provides mid-point brace for fender; needs to be trimmed to fender contour

[Pat Landymore]

Cool idea! Thanks for showing me. I’ll take a couple photos of my set up later today.

[Pat Landymore]

Got it running today... plenty of minor exhaust leaks ( no surprise) and a few oil leaks...hopefully all of them minor.

Will try to put a video up on YouTube and then link from here.

[Pat Landymore]

https://youtu.be/X7geavgJ1pE

[Pat Landymore]

Here are those photos I promised of my front fender mounting. Not shown is the grille shell, there are two more rivnuts per side in it further tying fender and grille together.

That chunk of box tubing you can see welded to the top of radiator mount in second photo is my headlight mount. I didn’t want the headlights dancing around at night and don’t care very much about looking ‘original’...this approach makes them far more rigid for a truck with fenders.

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[bnelson]

https://youtu.be/X7geavgJ1pE

Pat that thing sounds SWEET!

[Pat Landymore]

Thanks!!
She will sound way better in another week or so...

[Pat Landymore]

Here’s a quick video tour of all the plumbing. I recall someone asked....

https://youtu.be/Z9PTiVJ-6xo

[Pat Landymore]

A video of my spinny muffler at work. LOL ��

https://youtu.be/z7IOFtYxEmE

[Pat Landymore]

A fairly nice day here so I pushed her outside and drove her back inside.

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[Pat Landymore]

For anyone interested; with the 0.600” lift cam that came with the Trick Flow top end kit...idle vacuum is 9-10” Hg at 800 rpm. More than I expected quite honestly....

[Pat Landymore]

Drivers eye view but for now with untidy engine wiring/plumbing

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[Pat Landymore]

From this angle, I remember exactly why I ordered one of these.

There are days, as some of you know, and some of you may find out, where you (or your spouse) will start asking why, oh why the heck did you start this project?!

Here is the answer.... because it is SO Cool!!

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:D

[Pat Landymore]

A quick video tour of other aspects of my build to date.

https://youtu.be/XyUGyHzRgQM

[bnelson]

A quick video tour of other aspects of my build to date.

https://youtu.be/XyUGyHzRgQM

Nice Pat. Keep the updates coming :) I really enjoy following along :)

[RuffShod]

Very nice!!!

[Pat Landymore]

I’ve just been doing some small random stuff in the last few days...finally after our winter (September through to early April) it finally feels like spring here.

I started installing some luggage latches on the removable wood box deck to prevent it doing a ‘lift off‘ during a 9 second 1/4 mile. :D

127427

[Pat Landymore]

Re-torqued the heads today and did a (hopefully) final lash adjustment on the valves.

Then I removed the box so I can slightly modify a couple of mounting points and then I think....put primer on it. We’ll see.

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[Pat Landymore]

I’ll likely prime the back part of the cab that’s obscured by the box while I’m at it. The rest...well...meh. Whenever!

I’m not a guy that’s in love with super nice paint on my own rides...those kind of paint jobs are just one rock chip or scratch away from me being aggravated and not enjoying what I’ve worked so hard to build.

I just want to get it on the road legally and enjoy it!

[Pat Landymore]

Mounting an auxiliary radiator under the box today...just in case I need it. Will run the lines but not connect them quite yet. It’s my process of completing absolutely everything I can think of under the box prior to me painting it and putting it back on ‘35.

Also ordered my custom Alberta license plate today.

I know my hot rodding skill and power plant choice is a bit raw.....more like like rat rodding than the ultra nice hot rods others are creating on this web-space... so the plate will read ‘PAT ROD’.

I think it’s a great description of what I’m trying to build.

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[Pat Landymore]

The heater can be my auxiliary radiator for most of the year...up here in my area of the great white north, the days for air conditioning for most people are few and far between.

[Pat Landymore]

Drove it up and down the alley a few times last night, they’re a bit faint but here’s my first pair of 11’s.... drivers side is closest to the garage.

I’ll do better next time! LOL :D

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[Pat Landymore]

I went for the second time to my local registry today. I have no idea why they have so many reviews below 4... the guy was patient and kind, couldn’t have asked for more.

All I need to do is get an out of province safety inspection within the next 90 days.
I can do that!!

Talk about motivation for completion ��

LOL

[RuffShod]

I went for the second time to my local registry today. I have no idea why they have so many reviews below 4... the guy was patient and kind, couldn’t have asked for more.

All I need to do is get an out of province safety inspection within the next 90 days.
I can do that!!

Talk about motivation for completion ��

LOL

Good luck!!!

[Pat Landymore]

Worked on different things yesterday.

-installed the coolant header tank, the cap for the loud valve and the loud version of my exhaust. Have the other intermediate pipe off for touch up welding.

-installed a relay and fuse to control the fan on the under box auxiliary radiator.

-got tired of real work so tried a bunch of different versions of the door art I’ve been thinking of. My favourite version shown.

Photos below in same order as list above.

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[Pat Landymore]

Here’s how she sounds now with the loud pipe, some tuning and corrected spark plug wiring. Still can’t believe I did that...!
:p

https://youtu.be/JJ1ZcTBNhZc

[wallace18]

Sounds Good!:cool:

[Pat Landymore]

Today’s work...mounting the dash and (re) testing the electrics in their final position.

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[Pat Landymore]

The bright light on the RHS of the second photo is the management screen for the EFI system.

[Pat Landymore]

Here’s a startup video from inside the almost finished interior of my ‘35.

Hope you lads enjoy it!

Video link
https://youtu.be/sh2ArOZC20M

[Pat Landymore]

I’m definitely joking here, but somehow the truck startup reminds me of this video clip from my youth...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJZbef8eYO8&app=desktop

[RuffShod]

Pretty high tech, Pat!!!

Sounds healthy!!!

[Pat Landymore]

Primed the grill shell yesterday and painted it today. Will need the top half to be redone, but for me...good enough for now. Easy to redo later...it’s a small and accessible area.

More importantly this lets me mount the headlights and allowed the installation of a bulkhead fitting for the water methanol system and finally got that the way I wanted it.
I’m kinda happy how it turned out.

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[Pat Landymore]

Well, I’ve had at least two days off for me to follow the Spacex/NASA launch, the orbit and docking...all online.
So cool! Congrats to all involved!

Back to Earth now and back to my ‘35...

First off, I am no newbie to engines and timing. The Super Sniper had me frustrated. I did two days of online research and called Holley tech support this morning. What I learned is that their written instructions for a magnetic distributor are most likely incorrect. Go with the 45 degrees shown in the videos, not the 15 shown in the two newest revisions of their documentation. Everything else they say is the same and correct about the timing settings in the LCD screen and confirming rotor position. And to note: the very helpful gentleman at Holley Tech Support also advised me in many cases the adjustable rotor doesn’t work out all that well. After careful checking I removed mine.

Main thing is...my beast now runs like a Super Beast!
WOW!

[Pat Landymore]

As I inch ever closer to my roadworthiness inspection, today felt like the day to install my FFR data plate. The FFR serial number is already approved by my province as I previously had insurance and then ordered my custom plate tied to this vehicle.

I think it looks so old school where it’s mounted...Just how I like it!

129337

[Pat Landymore]

Unfortunately I had to take a major detour today. Oil leak from the pan. Purchased one of those cool Fel-Pro one piece gaskets...I sure hope it works!


Only thing I needed to remove was a small part of my exhaust cross over...I’m happy I considered the pan may need to come off one day and planned that into my turbo kit design!

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Cross over

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[Pat Landymore]

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[ztoolman44]

Unfortunately I had to take a major detour today. Oil leak from the pan. Purchased one of those cool Fel-Pro one piece gaskets...I sure hope it works!


Only thing I needed to remove was a small part of my exhaust cross over...I’m happy I considered the pan may need to come off one day and planned that into my turbo kit design!

129395


Cross over

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Love it when a plan comes together

[Pat Landymore]

Have the box all tied up at a nice working height and mostly sanded/filled. Running boards and tailgate already sanded. Possibly tomorrow for primer for these parts...certainly by Wednesday.

129695

[Pat Landymore]

Box, running boards and tailgate primed...awaiting wet sanding tomorrow. Had to purchase a larger compressor to keep up with the spray gun...not to bad with the primer but awful for the top coat.

And this arrived in the mail!
Ya Hoo! :D

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