View Full Version : front brake line routing near coyote header?
Brian76
04-20-2019, 01:37 PM
My father and I are ready to begin routing brake lines on our roadster. The consensus for rear brake lines is to route them inside the pedal box because FFR's routing on the front of the pedal box panel is too close to the coyote header. For the front brake line, FFR shows routing the line along the 3/4" tube right above the headers. Is this also a concern for heat? I've attached a picture of Fixits routing as an example (Thanks John!). Does anyone have a measurement from front brake line to the top of the header (see #1 in picture)? Also, does anyone have the measurement of the header to the front of the pedal box panel (#2 in picture)? I'm curious what the difference is.
thanks
106060
GoDadGo
04-20-2019, 02:34 PM
Though I'm not Ford Powered, I had concerns too so I ran the front line down the inside of the upper tube since my headers are close too.
You can see how I ran it 23-30 seconds into the attached video.
https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs
Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!
rich grsc
04-20-2019, 02:53 PM
There is NO issue with running the brake line along the 3/4" tube. The brake caliper will be 50X hotter than the air at that location. You can hold your hand 2" away from a header.
GFX2043mtu
04-20-2019, 07:52 PM
If it bugs you that much run it along the bottom of the upper 3/4” tube.
Brian76
04-22-2019, 11:25 AM
Thanks. Routing the line on the upper 3/4" tube is an option we are considering. We're trying to hide as much brake line as possible so we would prefer to route it on the lower 3/4" tube. DOT3 boiling point is 284F. Headers can reach 500-600F during normal cruising (from what I've read). Would autocrossing be 900F? Maybe the air gap is large enough to lower the temp. I'll look into heat wrap or silica sleeve for the area nearest the header just to be safe.
rich grsc
04-22-2019, 12:06 PM
Thanks. Routing the line on the upper 3/4" tube is an option we are considering. We're trying to hide as much brake line as possible so we would prefer to route it on the lower 3/4" tube. DOT3 boiling point is 284F. Headers can reach 500-600F during normal cruising (from what I've read). Would autocrossing be 900F? Maybe the air gap is large enough to lower the temp. I'll look into heat wrap or silica sleeve for the area nearest the header just to be safe.
Yes the headers can reach that temp, but the air flowing around them never will, and yes auto crossing could boil the fluid in the calipers, but that's not, always will. If you plan on racing, buy high quality brake fluid and change when needed.
AC Bill
04-22-2019, 01:34 PM
Run it on the top of the 3/4" frame, instead of at the side, (as shown in the picture), so the frame acts as a heat shield.
Can't help with measurements as my headers are completely different.
How about this? Run the brake line along the upper frame rail. They aren't the best photos, but these should give you an idea.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106191&d=1555966276
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106190&d=1555966248
This approach requires a few extra bends, but it takes the header completely out of play.
Paul2STL
04-23-2019, 09:19 AM
Like Rich said the air temp where the brake line is will never get very hot even will sitting in traffic. I would be surprised if that line got above 150 degrees itself. The coyote runs pretty cool. Keeping it as is would be fine or you can run it like Al suggested, that is how I have mine ran.
JohnK
04-23-2019, 10:26 AM
You could cover them in a heat shield sleeve for a little extra protection:
https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hot-rod-sleeve
Brian76
04-23-2019, 11:31 AM
Thanks for the recent replies. As mentioned, we are considering routing the brake line on the top 3/4" tube but we prefer the lower 3/4" tube to hide brake line as much as possible in the engine compartment. More than likely this isn't an issue. But now I'm curious so I might experiment with my 87 foxbody and a IR thermometer just to see how hot the brake line material gets at various air gaps.
John, thanks for the link. I think a couple of those products would do the trick.