Help and advice needed. Wife and I dont know where to start

[Timo]

Hi guys,

Wife and I starting the Roadster Journey in Juni by ordering the Roadster Kit.
We have a $30.000 budget (is it possible) we are not looking for a racer, just a Sunday driver.

Here are our options so far we came up with

Option 1

Get the Base-Kit with a 98-04 Mustang ($3000-$4500 running) and pull all parts out I need including 4.6l engine and 5 speed transmission. Cost about $16000 to $17500

Option 2

Get the Base-Kit with a 98-04 Mustang ($3000-$4500 running) and pull all parts out I need and buy a 302blueprint engine and transmission combo kit for $7500 delivered. Cost $23500 to $25000

Option 3

Get the Base-Kit all parts pulled by parts puller for about $1000 and a blue print engine combo. cost $21000 to $22500

Option 4

Get the Complete Kit with a used pulled 4.6l and transmission out of a mustang for $2600. cost $23000 to $24000

Option 5

Get the Complete Kit with rebuild 302 engine by us for $2000 and a used transmission for $600. cost $23000 to $24500.


Any advice welcome also help. We are in the San Antonio Area. If someone knows someone with a engine for sale etc..

[michael everson]

Get the complete kit. It will cost you a little more up front but save you tons of money and aggravation later on. Especially if you have never done this before.
Keep in mind for your budget.

Paint
tires and wheels
battery
any FFR options.
alignment


If you are not set on building one, there are plenty available already done for around that price point. Also look for used kits that someone has started and cannot finish.
Mike

[Joel Hauser]

If you are going to do a donor build, make sure your donor is in near perfect condition. I made the mistake of buying one that had been really butchered by the previous owner. Not being a mustang owner, I didn't recognize what a mess I was starting with. Also, a 10-15 year old donor engine, even if its working well, probably should be machined and rebuilt at the start of your project, rather than a couple years after you finish your project. Machine work, pistons, bearings, pumps etc are going to cost a couple thousand. And unless you plan on painting it yourself, that too is expensive. Heck, the primer, paint, and clear coat alone for my car was close to $600.
All that said, I'm pretty sure my build was about $25000, although I have to concede that I lost track of all the little things I had to buy.
Have fun.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Get the complete kit. It will cost you a little more up front but save you tons of money and aggravation later on. Especially if you have never done this before.
Keep in mind for your budget.

Paint
tires and wheels
battery
any FFR options.
alignment


If you are not set on building one, there are plenty available already done for around that price point. Also look for used kits that someone has started and cannot finish.
Mike

Unless you use a donor car you'll also need a rear end. If you use a '98-04 donor the rear end will be too wide for "off the shelf" (i.e. reasonably priced) rims.

Plus shipping unless you plan to go pick it up. Stewart to Texas is probably $1,200+

Honestly, the numbers you've come up with for your various options are unrealistically low.

Jeff

[wallace18]

One thing I want to pass on to you. It is normal to spend anywhere from 2,000 to 4,000 in misc. items for the build. Also for the money you want to spend you would have to do all the paint and bodywork yourself. Also building a donor deal there is always hidden expense in repairs of the donor. Just passing along some thought from someone who has built 14 FFR kits. Best of luck and hope it all works out for you.

[Timo]

getting a car complete painted down here in Texas is pretty cheap, its around 1000 to 1500, but i also thought about rapping the car in chrome. For Tires and wheels i want to spend around 2000.

[GoDadGo]

Timo,

Complete Kit All The Way!
Save money by going with aftermarket wheels and over the Hairbands.
Go with a peppy 302 SBF and T-5 to save money from a reputable supplier.
Don't go putting stuff on the car that you don't necessarily need.
Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS Method) and make a budget.
Finally, any information you get form Jeff or Mike will be 100% spot on accurate.

Steve

[Timo]

https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1965/factory_five/mk3/101120229?fbclid=IwAR0aK2-TUYgQsiBydNLL8o8e9ONUIou3kulUXQSq0tWR7QtcU68hzLXCT J4

anyone seen this, what do you guys think?

[bil1024]

https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1965/factory_five/mk3/101120229?fbclid=IwAR0aK2-TUYgQsiBydNLL8o8e9ONUIou3kulUXQSq0tWR7QtcU68hzLXCT J4

anyone seen this, what do you guys think?

way over priced, should be half that, you have no idea what your getting into. A base kit with the sale options going on this month is a better deal

[Jeff Kleiner]

https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1965/factory_five/mk3/101120229?fbclid=IwAR0aK2-TUYgQsiBydNLL8o8e9ONUIou3kulUXQSq0tWR7QtcU68hzLXCT J4

anyone seen this, what do you guys think?

Depending on suspension and brakes used...$12K. Tops.

Jeff

[conger]

You might be better off with a complete kit. I went the donor base kit route initially and quite frankly threw most of the donor away. I kept the motor and transmission but rebuilt both. Nothing else is really usable if you want any kind of reliability. Since I started with a base kit, I ended up sourcing a lot of new parts myself. Some of what you can save will depend on your skill set & how much time you can put into it.

[NAZ]

Whatever you think it's going to cost to build a car -- double it. Even if you are disciplined enough to resist scope creep there will be plenty of unplanned costs that will eat into your budget. You can buy a car for less than you can build one yourself, use it immediately, and there will be plenty of modifications you can perform to personalize it.

If you purchase a kit and it turns out the cost to build is greater than you planned, what will you do?

[wareaglescott]

getting a car complete painted down here in Texas is pretty cheap, its around 1000 to 1500, but i also thought about rapping the car in chrome. For Tires and wheels i want to spend around 2000.

Are you familiar with how much body work is required before they can paint or wrap the car? The body as it is delivered needs a ton of work. If you think you can get by with 1500 I would recommend not even painting it and driving it in gel coat as it arrives. A $1500 paint job on an unprepared body would look absolutely horrible. Not trying to down your project. Just keeping it real.

[Desert Cobra]

All the other comments to this thread are valid. Cobra building and budgets do not work together. On a budget, buy a completed car that meets your budget. If its a build... think of yourself as NASA. There will be cost overruns. If you want to build your own, then a budget makes about as much sense as deciding how much you want to spend on the flowers at the marriage before you fall in love. You either love these cars or you don't. You will regret cutting corners using a donor.

[Houdini]

another thing is how far are you going with car?? if you go cross country to rod runs I would say buy new engine and trans or a Blueprint engine

if going around town and 30 mile runs to local shows a old car engine should do

2 quarts of paint and a gal reducer cost me close to $700
a good job of insulating will cost $300 and you wont be done
I am cheep and building a truck and will have 50K in it when done and I can do my paint and body

[John Dol]

http://https://www.ffcars.com/forums/18-factory-five-cars-sale-wanted-sponsored-intercity-lines/637390-brand-new-untouched-roadster-kit-sale.html

Have you seen this?
May be a good starting point

John

[Timo]

Hi Steve,

I did a google search on Base-Kit manual and found a free pdf.

Looking through it it doesn't look like there are not to many parts you need extra, please correct me if i am wrong.

A rebuild 8.8 axle 59.25 is about $500 down here and all the other parts I can buy new our refurbished for a responsible prize. I don't know where the extra $7000 for the complete kit come from.

missing in basekit

Fuel tank $150
breaks and rotors $500

tubular a frame $399
spindles 399
wiring harness $500
power steering $180

[edwardb]

Hi Steve,

I did a google search on Base-Kit manual and found a free pdf.

Looking through it it doesn't look like there are not to many parts you need extra, please correct me if i am wrong.

A rebuild 8.8 axle 59.25 is about $500 down here and all the other parts I can buy new our refurbished for a responsible prize. I don't know where the extra $7000 for the complete kit come from.

missing in basekit

Fuel tank $150
breaks and rotors $500

tubular a frame $399
spindles 399
wiring harness $500
power steering $180

I'm confused by your comment bolded above. Are you suggesting the $7000 additional for the complete kit isn't worth it? (1) If you think the only difference is the parts you've listed here, that's mistaken. There many many more parts than that. Plus some of the prices you list are incorrect. (2) Multiple people have done a cost breakdown of the difference in parts between the base and complete kit and most find the out of pocket cost to duplicate the difference would be nearly the same. Having said that, many (including me) have done non-donor builds from a base kit and added the required parts separately. Usually not to save money but rather to choose parts different than what Factory Five provides.

[Mark Reynolds]

Lots of good advice here. The best I have seen and if total actual cost is king is to find a finished and registered car that is closest to what you want and buy it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hi Steve,

I did a google search on Base-Kit manual and found a free pdf.

Looking through it it doesn't look like there are not to many parts you need extra, please correct me if i am wrong.

A rebuild 8.8 axle 59.25 is about $500 down here and all the other parts I can buy new our refurbished for a responsible prize. I don't know where the extra $7000 for the complete kit come from.

missing in basekit

Fuel tank $150
breaks and rotors $500

tubular a frame $399
spindles 399
wiring harness $500
power steering $180

Timo,
Not trying to burst your bubble, and none of the other guys replying are either, just trying to help you be realistic. You said "please correct me if I'm wrong". Well, in some ways yes, you are wrong. I've built both base and complete kits for myself as well as customers and have done the comparison/cost analysis for both several times. You really have to look at the entire big picture and be sure you're keeping it apples to apples when you ask where the additional $7,000 comes from.

A few points:
---Complete kit includes 3 link rear suspension; base has none---that's $1,400
---Complete kit includes the entire cooling system; base has none---that's <$500
---Complete kit includes proprietary spindles, calipers & rotors; base has none---that's $850
---Complete kit includes pedal box and master cylinders; base kit has none---that's $700
---Complete kit includes the entire fuel system; base kit has none---that's $520 (just placed this order for a client build on Tuesday)
---Complete kit includes gauges; base kit has none---that's $350 and up
---Complete kit includes driveshaft; base kit has none---that's $300
---Complete kit includes steering rack & tie rods; base kit has none---that's $250
---Complete kit includes Ron Francis harness; base kit has none---that's $500

This is just hitting the high spots but demonstrates that when you start to put the entire package together the gap closes up quickly. Yes, of course you can harvest parts from a donor or source used parts individually but then you aren't making a direct comparison...it would be kind of like going to the Ford dealer and wondering where the additional $$$$ comes from when looking at a new F150 (complete kit) and a used 2010 F150 (base kit).

Keep doing plenty of research and don't let desire cloud reality.

Good luck whichever way you go!

Jeff

[Joel Hauser]

I really enjoy this thread, probably because I went through the same thought process as Timo when I was first debating a build. I was thinking, the base kit cost $13,000, a mustang GT would cost $4000, a gallon of rust-o-leum $50. Put it all in the blender, and pour out a gorgeous cobra. I also thought I could do the whole thing in a month or two.
It is my impression that it is possible - not likely, but possible - to build this car for under $20,000. But all the stars and planets must be perfectly aligned, and you've got to be really lucky. The basic kit plus the donor include just about everything you need. The only absolutely essential things you have to buy are an oil pan (about $450) and a shortened driveshaft ($350). But if any of your donor parts need replacing - shocks, gas tank, tires, radiator, gauges, sensors, gaskets, clutch - the price quickly goes up. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, if you build a donor car, start with a perfect, stock donor.

[Jacob McCrea]

If you purchase a kit and it turns out the cost to build is greater than you planned, what will you do?

That's a pretty important question. I experienced this, not because I misjudged the total cost, but because mid-build I took a low-paying job to develop additional skills and position myself to safely start a business. When you've got the kit sitting there and all you need to move forward is money, you start looking at credit cards, selling stuff you worked hard to acquire, drawing from a retirement account, etc. - all terrible ways to fund a toy that's not a good investment in the first place. I did just a little of all three of those to move forward when money was tight, regrettably. I'd advise anyone NOT to start one of these projects unless you can pay for everything with cash on hand, or are comfortable making progress as your own money (rather than a creditor's money) becomes available.

I can't say much about the complete kit vs. the base kit, having bought the latter. But I can say with certainty that finding and buying all the parts that would have come with the complete kit took a massive amount of my time, and there was certainly an opportunity cost to that time.

[Boydster]

I started a spreadsheet back in 2013. I built the spreadsheet with prices and sources for everything I wanted... a dream build. I read so many forum build threads that I knew what it took to build one from the ground up. I saved for years until I had the money to do the build I wanted. I made sure I was not going to run out of money. I worked that spreadsheet for so long I had to update prices twice. The spreadsheet included EVERYTHING... custom gauges, seatbelts, LED lamps, tail light converter, leather, glue, bumpers, rivet gun, front end alignment costs, body work and paint, oil, coolant, hose clamps... everything.

Regardless of how you're going to build, do the research. Build the spreadsheet so you know what it's going to cost.

Kleiners post is a very good one to read over more than once.

[mike223]

I can't say much about the complete kit vs. the base kit, having bought the latter. But I can say with certainty that finding and buying all the parts that would have come with the complete kit took a massive amount of my time, and there was certainly an opportunity cost to that time.




I will add that I did the same (base kit) and the research + development of parts is nothing to sneeze at.

The hardest part of it is deciding exactly what you want + need on YOUR car (and what actually does exactly what you want it to do).


Part of it is how long do you want to spend building?

Base kit spreads all that out longer (and the payments) / complete kit doesn't require as much research, development and thought.


You really can't make many (very few, really) buying mistakes before you end up spending the same money as the complete kit (but it will spread that cost out).

[Timo]

Thanks guys for all the input.

Looking at your profiles and it looks like you guys are all from up north. Possible, things are more expensive up there?

Talked to my local paint shop and he said bodywork and paint will be $2500.

Talked to the trucking company, they said $1700 to Texes

What I want my FFR Cobra to be:

I dont care what my build will look like under the hood our dashboard. this car will just be a Sunday Texas Hill Country cruiser. And maybe I do some upgrades later.
I dont mind going to the pick and pull and get what I need and rebuild and paint. We have all kinds of salvage yards and rebuild shops down here. Almost no rain so most of the parts a rust free.
We have $30.000 in the bank for this car and I just want to make sure not to piss my wife off using more. (If you know what i mean)

Right now I see only a few options

Base Kit and do some running around and rebuild parts and a new 302 from blueprint with a rebuild t5 tranny I found for 450

our

Complete Kit with a 302 block I need to find and let it rebuild. local shop says $800 to machine block and cylinder heads, etc


And BTW English is not my first language so excuse the grammar.(i am ze German)



AND ALL INPUTS's ARE WELCOME

P.S. Wife and I have no clue about anything. We will tape our journey and post it on you-tube including pick and pull parts and all failures

one more thing, where do you guys see complete cobras between 20k to 30k

[Robodent]

Good luck with your build. Sounds like your doing your homework. I’m up north maybe things are more expensive in my zip code idk. I have 2500 in all my paint, primer, sandpaper etc. anyhow keep things posted on your progress.

[edwardb]

Thanks guys for all the input.

Looking at your profiles and it looks like you guys are all from up north. Possible, things are more expensive up there?

Talked to my local paint shop and he said bodywork and paint will be $2500.

Talked to the trucking company, they said $1700 to Texes

Is this $2500 paint shop "quote" from someone who has done one of these before? Have you actually seen an unfinished body before? Yes, there are regional differences for shop rates. But not that much. There is 100+ hours of labor to do body and paint (and that's on the low side) by someone who has experience with these. Anyone saying it's less than that either doesn't know or isn't being forthright. Typically material (filler, primers, paint, clear, supplies, etc.) is roughly $2500 alone, +/- brand, color, etc. So sorry, that's not realistic and I wouldn't build a budget around it.

The $1700 is probably in the ballpark for delivery. But you'll want to carefully consider who you have do that. The carrier most of use, Stewart Transportation, has specially set up trailers for these and knows the drill. Looking for the lowest cost common carrier may not be your best choice.

You said you wanted all input. But you're getting some solid advice from experienced folks here, and I'd encourage listening a little more than you appear to be. Just my opinion. Better to be realistic now than surprised or disappointed later.

$30K is a doable budget for one of these, but it's likely going to be a donor build like you're describing, with very careful part selection, a lot of sweat equity, and without too many frills. And many times builds in that price range are self-painted. Unless you're really set on building one, buying one already built may give you the most for your money. Agreed many are above your price range, but some are not. You may need to watch a while to find what you want, but then building doesn't happen overnight either. There are classifieds here and on the other forum. Typically a bunch on eBay. Local Craiglists often have them. Maybe even check with clubs in your area.

[Timo]

https://usclassifieds4all.com/details.php?id=8229

[Mick40]

The link Timo posted is a no-brainer.

[edwardb]

https://usclassifieds4all.com/details.php?id=8229

Decent looking car, based on the somewhat limited info. For the record, it's not a Factory Five. But maybe you knew that.

[NAZ]

Timo, I think you will find that you can purchase a built car for less than the cost of building one yourself. You can learn this by doing or by listening to the advice of others that have learned the hard way. There are advantages of building your own but reduced cost is not one of them. I suspect you can find one that fits your needs in less time than it will take you to build one and for less money.

Whichever way you go, good luck and enjoy the journey.

[mike223]

The link Timo posted is a no-brainer.


You can't build anything like that for that money.

[Jeff Kleiner]

... For the record, it's not a Factory Five. But maybe you knew that.

It's a Fiber Fab with some of the easily spotted giveaways being the fuel filler placement, deeply recessed firewall and shape of the lower edge of the dash.

I'd proceed with caution, if at all. Here's a Readers Digest history lesson---Fiberfab went out of business in the early 1980s then resurfaced as Classic Motor Carriages (CMC) which was shut down in the early 1990s when the Florida Attorney General sued them on behalf of a few hundred customers who were (allegedly) bilked out of millions of dollars. Shortly thereafter the company arose again, this time known as Street Beasts. In 2010 following similar complaints from customers about failure to deliver paid for parts and kits the company closed for good and all of the equipment, molds and tooling was sold to pay off debts and judgements. These three entities which in reality were all the same are responsible for much of the stigma that plagued kit cars for many years until companies like Factory Five, Shell Valley and a few other legitimate manufacturers came along.

So there you go...google "Street Beast Cobra" and "Classic Motor Carriages Cobra" and you'll find plenty of reading.

Jeff

[Timo]

Back to square one, all the adds are fake and a scam. Tried to contact the sellers in CA, FL. Was the same person. I goes I am building one

[SSNK4US]

Add 5k to your budget and buy this?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31404-MKIII-for-sale-40k

Looks like the perfect automatic Sunday driver!

AND.... it’s got Jeff’s approval!!!!

It sounds like it doesn’t matter too much if you buy or build? If you have 30k cash in the bank burning a hole in your pocket it would be worth begging, borrowing or stealing the extra 5k to get that one....IF it’s still available...

Good luck on whichever way you go....

PS take a look at the price of the paint job, that’s about ballpark +\- a few K for an acceptable professional
to do it.

Kurt

[Tacojoe]

Hey Timo / got your message - i was able to build under 30K. Call me a nerd, but i kept track of all my costs and attached a summary. Grand total: $28555.24. NOTE - this includes a 50$ SBC cradle (so really 28505.24) -AND- Paint was NOT included. I painted myself and purchased a $400 compressor from harbor freight / purple gun for $10 and paint was $120 / $60 for the feather fill and was it $50? for rage gold?

So add that in and i'm at: $29145.24 -and most importantly: I am VERY happy with the end product :) YOU CAN DO IT TIMO!

106085

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you are serious about having a completed car for <$30K you'll JUMP ON THIS!

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/18-factory-five-cars-sale-wanted-sponsored-intercity-lines/637452-factory-five-racing-mk-iii-cobra.html

[SSNK4US]

See, there are 30k turn key non fake non scam cars out there...

[JimPTx]

I went through the buy or build thought process, but in the end I know if I try to build it'll sit in the corner due to family and business commitments. In the end, I bought my car in Houston, for not much more than your budget. If I had to duplicate it, I know I'd easily have 2 to 2.5x that amount invested.

My advice is take your time, watch CL for DFW/Austin/ SA / Houston and be ready to drive!

[JimPTx]

https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d/houston-1965-shelby-cobrafast-531-hp/6836572429.html

[JimPTx]

Timo,
If you're on Facebook, check out the Texas Cobra Club page. There was a really nice Lone Star posted today at $32,500.

[norcalLo]

Sent you a PM re: FFR MKIII Challenge Series Cobra

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well, the original poster seems to have gone silent since we started showing completed cars available within his budget so maybe he's not really serious about buying after all but here's another good one:

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/18-factory-five-cars-sale-wanted-sponsored-intercity-lines/637534-2010-2012-build-mk-4-sale.html

Jeff

[Timo]

Hi guys,

still here, thanks for all the cars. There is a cobra builder here in town near San Antonio. I like the frame, no alu panels etc.

https://www.ultimateclassiccars.com/gt-427-roadster


they have a sale for a complete kit for 15000

[Timo]

Send him a message, exactly what i was looking for

[Avalanche325]

There is no way you can get body and paint done on one of these for $2500. I painted my own car and JUST the paint (color and clear), not anything under it, cost $900. Then there was filler, primer, sealer, HSRF, glazing putty, tape, sandpaper, buffing compound, polishing compound, etc. I did use all high quality stuff. I have over $2500 in mine with free labor. And MAN O MAN there is a lot of labor on the bodywork. Yes you can get cheap paint, but at the end of they day guess what you and everyone else are really looking at?.........the paint. And for paint to look good, the bodywork has to be pristine.

Wraps require the exact same body work as paint. So they end up being pretty much the same price or even more expensive.

[edwardb]

Hi guys,

still here, thanks for all the cars. There is a cobra builder here in town near San Antonio. I like the frame, no alu panels etc.

https://www.ultimateclassiccars.com/gt-427-roadster

they have a sale for a complete kit for 15000

Don't want to get into a contest and not my intent to badmouth another brand. But this is a Factory Five forum. Some of the more experienced guys are familiar with that brand (formerly Lone Star Classics) but many including me don't know much about them. Just browsing through their website, some of their comments seem directed at Factory Five, and many are dated or a bit misleading. Like saying "most are polyester resin instead of the much better vinyl ester resin." Since Factory Five has sold more than all the other brands combined, that would seem to include Factory Five. Which are vinyl ester. Also kind of interesting how they promote 4-link over IRS. Hmm. I made my choice and freely admit to being biased though. I would be very surprised if at the end they're any cheaper. More reading here if you're interested: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16715-Factory-Five-vs-Lone-Star-Classics.

[GoDadGo]

Hi guys,

still here, thanks for all the cars. There is a cobra builder here in town near San Antonio. I like the frame, no alu panels etc.

https://www.ultimateclassiccars.com/gt-427-roadster


they have a sale for a complete kit for 15000

Timo,

There are many Kit Car Manufacturers out there.

I looked at quite a few of them before making my choice which took several years.
My only recommendation is to do your home work and decide if you just want a car that looks like a Cobra or one with racing in it's DNA.
Take a look at the DNA of Factory Five #8,515 and be honest with yourself about the chassis of a Factory Five versus a Typical Kit Car.

https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

Good Luck & I Hope You Find What You Are Looking For!

Steve

[Jeff Kleiner]

The dogleg in the roll bar leg and dashboard shape peg UCC as the defunct Lone Star Classics company resurrected under a different name. I'm suspicious any time a company folds and closes up shop then returns with a new name...but hey, what do I know.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

The dogleg in the roll bar leg and dashboard shape peg UCC as the defunct Lone Star Classics company resurrected under a different name. I'm suspicious any time a company folds and closes up shop then returns with a new name...but hey, what do I know.

Jeff

I went to the Lone Star Classics facility when I was searching for my potential project because they supported a Chevrolet Drive Train.
I won't list the other factories that I visited, but the only one that I didn't was Factory Five because their reputation was so good.
Lone Star impressed with me so much with their chassis, their body and the quality of their product that I chose another path.
I wonder if this is the same company, with the same management and same quality that is just under a new name?
Previously they were built just outside of Fort Worth in a leased aircraft hanger.
Have you ever seen how they build Factory Five cars?
There is a difference so take a look.

Speedmakers Part 1:
https://youtu.be/wVT6QHyBxDA

Speedmakers Part 2:
https://youtu.be/GvkJ95X7Fio

John George Racing His Old Factory Five Challenge Car:
https://youtu.be/X9OSrHFECxc

[SSNK4US]

Really cool videos! I’ve never seen those build ones.
Oh and thanks a lot Steve for dragging me into a couple hours of YouTube videos!!
Not that I have anything better to do... ;) but it beats watching Men in Black 1,2,3,4,5 and Diehard 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 for the millionth time on AMC or TBS I’m going stir crazy!!!! But (for you old people) I just found all the old episodes of Thunderbirds on amazon prime! So cool :) and (for you even older people) Supercar!!! Lol

And now back to topic.... I’ve looked at kits since the Bradley GT came out. So short and sweet, Factory Five is BY FAR superior.

Kurt

[JimPTx]

I'd heard that Lone Star had sold, relocated, and that's what became UCC. I don't know anything about them, but there do seem to be a few of them around, especially around DFW.

[GoDadGo]

Kurt,

Here a couple more time wasters for you:

Motortrend Epic Drives:
https://youtu.be/b88XnNX8rnc

Hot Rod Magazine Comparison:
https://youtu.be/V96-AQ1FghI

My brother calls me "Rain-Man" because I'm OCD about Car Crud & Camshaft Crap.

Steve

[SSNK4US]

Thanks Steve! I’ve seen them.... but watched them again :) Then I took YouTube to the big screen instead of my phone to watch some guy miss second gear... again I’ve watched this a few times ;) It must have been Ford powered and didn’t like him LOL
Soooo cool!!!!!

106604

[Kpt112]

I agree on complete kit. Also keep in mind that a project will take some time and you do not have to spend it all in one shot. If you think about a 24 month build you can spend your 20K upfront and do the rest when you get some more money. (like wheels and tires. I did the complete kit on my build and was really glad I did.
gauges.

As you do your build there will be many moments when you will make decision about the quality of your build. Example:

Engine size
Transmission
IRS or axle
Brakes etc.


I decided to spend the extra money instead of wishing I would have purchased the desired part upfront.

Good Luck

[GoDadGo]

106604
Mrs. Go-Dad did this for my 50th birthday and for the record it scared the crap out of me.
I don't like going much over 100 MPH for any length of time so Drag Racing works for me.
My top speed was 163.4 and that is when I got passed by a girl.

[SSNK4US]

Yeah you could tell that a little.... ;) specially when some annoying guy keeps putting his thumbs up in your face....
For future reference that means Go Dad Go!! :)

[SSNK4US]

We now return you back to your regularly scheduled thread......

106605

[Timo]

Boys, i am back. bought a cobra already build.

[Timo]

108150108150108150Here a pic

[GoDadGo]

Timo,

Congratulations On Your New Purchase!
Be careful as you learn how to drive it.
These cars can be a handful.

Steve

[toadster]

Hey Timo / got your message - i was able to build under 30K. Call me a nerd, but i kept track of all my costs and attached a summary. Grand total: $28555.24. NOTE - this includes a 50$ SBC cradle (so really 28505.24) -AND- Paint was NOT included. I painted myself and purchased a $400 compressor from harbor freight / purple gun for $10 and paint was $120 / $60 for the feather fill and was it $50? for rage gold?

So add that in and i'm at: $29145.24 -and most importantly: I am VERY happy with the end product :) YOU CAN DO IT TIMO!

106085

where's wheels and tires? BTW awesome list and youtube channel :)

[SSNK4US]

Congrats Timo! Looks beautiful. Any details on it? Engine, interior pics?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Pretty car. Lone Star?

Jeff