SS383 Build - 33 Hot Rod #1134 [Archive]

AJT '33

04-16-2019, 03:32 PM

CONGRATS!!! Other than good luck the first piece of advice I can give you is to get the body, doors, trunk, hood all fit up and aligned with each other (you will need to fit up the rad with the front grill as well) first before you get into all the other fun stuff!! This will not only test your patience but it will get you way ahead when it comes to the rest as that portion can go very quickly and the least amount of dust on it the better. This is a lesson I learned the hard way and now understand this is the way the other "full time builders" do it as well as at FFR. Doing body and fitment early on also lets you ensure good alignment for the rest of the components afterwards.

Oh and most of all HAVE FUN!!! :)

sread

04-17-2019, 10:34 AM

that's great advice! I am in the process of doing exactly that and have 10 - 15 hours in trying to hang the first door and it still isn't quite done. I am so glad to be getting this part of the build over with (while it is still cool in the shop). The rest will be a walk in the park.

peterh226

04-18-2019, 11:12 AM

I’m thinking about that process. I’m trying to find a post about the entire grind/sand/smooth process. I read a post but can’t find it again. It’s a bit overwhelming to decide where to start.

peterh226

04-18-2019, 11:14 AM

Yup. Blueprint just makes it easier. Hope to order it this month.

GoDadGo

04-18-2019, 12:07 PM

Yup. Blueprint just makes it easier. Hope to order it this month.

If you are going to be running an HEI Distributor then consider purchasing this little gem of a Rev-Limiter from MSD:

https://youtu.be/3C-IwoadX7Q

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8727ct

I've got this unit on my car and really works well and adjusts with the twist of two dials in 100 RPM increments.

peterh226

04-18-2019, 06:29 PM

Thanks, I'll add it to my research list!

peterh226

04-28-2019, 10:36 AM

Hi Folks - Delivery Video
I'm working on having an automatic Video capture of the build. I'll explain in another set of posts, but here's a link to my first video. This one has a wider variety than what will be coming, but is still fun!
https://youtu.be/VQLDDTPj6TI

peterh226

05-05-2019, 03:02 PM

Measured and marked the firewall. Determined pattern on the pieces for 1/4-20 button heads later on.
Trimmed the body at edges of lower firewall so it did not contact anything once the sides were attached.
Installed rear mountings. Was really even.
Used it the Greenlee drill/taps on the door sills to install 8-32 screws to hold them in the right place.
Bottom is essentially level with the frame and all looks square.
Here’s the spacing after trimming
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And the measurements and screws for the sills
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peterh226

05-05-2019, 03:06 PM

Centered and marked firewall for the pattern I wanted. Will be using button heads for final install.
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peterh226

05-07-2019, 08:19 PM

Got a pile of parts I want to powder coat. Cleaned up some sharp edges.
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Mrallsport32

05-07-2019, 10:28 PM

You build Looks good. I see you got your door hinges. Im jealous, I’m still waiting on all my hinges . I called F 5 again today they said they expect them to ship with my floor parts this week.

FF33rod

05-07-2019, 11:47 PM

and just when you hope all the powder coating is done, you find a few more parts that need it.... Starting to get into it Peter!

peterh226

05-14-2019, 07:53 PM

I want to get everything at least in primer before I start assembly. Created a spray booth out of an old shelving unit.
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Lots of parts out for powder coat and a bunch of stuff on the POL. So, I’ll start some basic body work to slowly work my way into this stuff. I’m in no hurry, so enjoying the ride!

peterh226

05-20-2019, 08:36 PM

A little Solidworks modeling, 3D printing, and paint and I've got a logo for the car. Planning on badges on either side of the Cowl post and maybe on the rear. Sorry Ford guys, my car is what I want it to be!
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Next one will ge primed with SlickSand to smooth it out a but. Order of color is a bit tricky as well.

peterh226

06-16-2019, 05:02 PM

Got a chance to work on the doors this weekend. Drivers door has been giving me fits so I decided to give the passenger side a try.
I was able to get it to fit up quite easily. Still a bit more to do, but it's pretty close.
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On the passenger side...
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It's a big twist and I have no idea how to get it out.

At the front, the bracket for the Latch does not touch the door frame at the to hold the striker pin in place. I've got a gap of ~1/2 inch. Looks like I'll have the same on the other side. Maybe Gen 2 needs a different bracket.
108976

Michael101

06-17-2019, 08:01 PM

I’ve had similar struggles. My pass door went together fairly well but I also ended up with the same gap you’re showing. I ended up adding shim washers to cover the gap. I also had to cut down the collar of my door striker as it was too long and would not allow the door to close.

Drivers door has been a different story altogether, it kicked my butt. I have it close but can see that it would take quite a bit of glass work to get it 100%. I called and sent note to FF and have had great response from them, think I’ll end up trying a replacement door.

JimLev

06-17-2019, 09:01 PM

They sent me a replacement drivers door, it was a little better than the original. I still needed shims to make it align with the body.
The top front of the door is off a bit where it meets the body, I'll need to do some grinding and glass work to make the fit look OK.

peterh226

06-17-2019, 09:34 PM

Thanks Jim, I'll give them a call...

JimLev

06-17-2019, 09:48 PM

AJT '33

06-18-2019, 07:31 AM

Here's what will need some work on to make it look decent.
109034

The other issue with both doors is the rear lower corner, it hits the body before the door closes, maybe some door seals will keep the inside of the door off the body.

I had the same issue and unfortunately ground too much away from the door side and the bond let go between the two skins, so I had to add more fiberglass mat on the inside of the door in that area. I laid three layers of 1.5oz mat on that face lapping onto the top of the door where the window slot would go. I could have added to the body, however I was hesitant to do so as it has multiple layers of cloth and would be harder to get the same strength back due to the strength to thickness ratio of the cloth and resin. Regardless it seemed to work well and will only need to modify the window seal for the power windows.
109049 You can see the crack in this pic before I corrected it.

JimLev

06-18-2019, 08:05 AM

Thanks for the pic and info AJT. Last night I ordered resin and mat. Think I'll do some glassing before the sanding.

peterh226

06-22-2019, 11:24 AM

WooHoo!! :o We're gonna have fun with this...
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FF33rod

06-22-2019, 11:59 AM

Sweet!

Michael101

06-22-2019, 05:53 PM

WooHoo!! :o We're gonna have fun with this...
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Really Nice!

peterh226

06-30-2019, 09:03 PM

Got the passenger door fitted pretty well a couple of contact points when opening, but at least it’s close. After my fight (and loss) with the drivers door this is pretty good.

The radiator assembly is ok. The pieces didn’t line up too great but I got it all together. The tolerance difference between the radiator and the grill are a little more than I’d like and I will review some more before any final assembly. The condenser brackets also were pretty tight and I needed to grind some clearance on the grill. Definitely some bending to fit on all of this stuff.
The spacers you use with the a/c change some of the clearance as well, so more things to review. I’ll post some more details soon.
109875
Looking forward to getting a bunch done next weekend.

GoDadGo

06-30-2019, 09:14 PM

WooHoo!! :o We're gonna have fun with this...
109371

Yes You Will!

Tire shredding will be surprisingly easy.

peterh226

07-04-2019, 08:24 AM

Got all of the parts trimmed and drilled. Condenser was not even with the face of the grill so I filed a bit away. Not sure why there is a difference, but it all looks ok. I put a spacer in for the upper mounts to better hold in place an not bend the brackets. Also got a couple of ordinary M16-2 nuts for temporary assembly purposes.
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Looks like any serious suspension maintenance is going to require the radiator to be removed along with a bunch of stuff. Not worth obsessing about!
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Now to fit the hood

sethmark

07-04-2019, 10:05 AM

Looks great, Peter.

FF33rod

07-04-2019, 12:16 PM

Looks good Peter. Interesting you had a bit of a clearance issue with the grill. Although the manual mentioned that the grill needed to be cut for the condenser, I found that it was already notched out and the clearance was great.

On Gen 2 do the engine side panels still rest on the lower extensions from the main body? If they do, I'm told that position of the body relative to the firewall, the engine side panels, and the hood should all be fitted at the same time as there is interaction between them all...

Steve

peterh226

07-04-2019, 06:47 PM

Got the hood fitted. The gaps are a bit larger than I would have liked, but I think I will still do. Need to mount the hinge to see how motion affects the clearance.
Hood sides and Nose cone were not too bad to fit, but don't really align as I'd like.
- The Nose cose is OK on one side and short on the other. I measured the grill and it is the same distance from various points on the firewall to mounting locations on the grill. So I think the positioning of the Grill is reasonable. It's mounted pretty far back as well.
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At the front I guess I'm supposed to remove the Vertical flange and glass over the joint so it becomes one piece. I guess I can extend the one side at the same time.

The Sides fit up pretty well. Top mount to the grill is a little small as I needed to remove most of the flange to get it to line up with the grill.

However, as noted by others the top of the sides is a bit too high. The Half round from the hood will not line up.
110100 110101

Options:
- see if there is some way to lower the nose cone so the sides are lower.
- try to pie cut the side panels and then glass them back together.
- Trim the hood and lose some of the half-round to the Hood/Side panel joint. The top would like up OK anyway.

I'm glad to be doing this now without any of the other mechanical parts getting in the way or dusty or damaged.

At least the Fenders and Running boards look pretty straightforward.
110103

Jason seems to be in the same Pickle. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32152-Jason-s-33-HotRod-1142-Kingwood-Texas/page2 #45 shows about the same thing.

AJT '33

07-05-2019, 07:14 AM

Question on the nose cone/under grill lip: Is yours two pieces or one? Mine was one piece and was long on each side and not trimmed back, I actually removed a good 2" when I setup mine. I find it very strange that it's now 2 pieces and you would need to laminate it together???? I would drop a note to Tony at FFR as I dont think this is right, I would be very surprised that they don't replace it. Here is a picture of mine, as you can sort of see (excuse the picture quality, lots of dust from sanding and cutting) that i needed to cut and trim it to that point and more.
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peterh226

07-05-2019, 08:03 AM

Looks like they went to 2 pieces with the Gen 2. @Michael101 is seeing the same issues I am. Time for a chat with FF.

Michael101

07-05-2019, 11:01 AM

You’re nose cone looks very similar to mine. Ok on one side and short on the other. Also, the two sides are not equal length when measured horizontally from the rear where they mount to the body to the suspension notches. They’re off by 1/4 to 3/8”. Not a big deal really, I’m just obsessing over minor details ��*♂️

Michael101

07-05-2019, 11:22 AM

FF33rod

07-05-2019, 11:55 AM

Very strange. Just looked at this part earlier in the week after everyone was chatting about how critical the grill angle is. Like Andreas, my gen 1 part appears to have lots of length available for trimming. I believe I had read in some build threads that to get the piece to sit right they ended up cutting it down the middle to remove some material. I've yet to get to that level of fussing with it but if this is true perhaps that is why FFR went to a 2 piece solution. Anyway, looks like Peter is going to call FFR and find out what's up. 1 piece or 2 they need to be close to the same and definitely long enough...

peterh226

07-05-2019, 01:55 PM

Engine arrived today! Packed well, looks great, lots of support pieces for electrical and fuel. Really a nice setup from Blueprint.
Once I get it installed for testing I will figure out a shifter location and sizing. Never a dull moment.
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progmgr1

07-05-2019, 02:05 PM

Yes, the Gen 1 nose piece is about 1/4" too wide. Most builders cut a strip out of the middle and then glassed the halves back together. Sounds like FFR just did that step for you with the Gen 2 body.
Keith

peterh226

07-06-2019, 09:23 PM

Started the hood fitment. Radius is a bit larger than the body. 110255. Opens and closes ok. 110256
Also fit the waterfall. Next is some rivnuts so it’s removable if a real problem develops. 110257

Ugh. Gotta remember to hold the phone in the other orientation.

sethmark

07-06-2019, 09:40 PM

I assume you’re using your phone? Edit the picture...crop it, even a little, and resave it. Won’t flip....

GoDadGo

07-06-2019, 10:41 PM

Engine arrived today!
110148

That's A Good Looking Mighty Mouse!

https://youtu.be/BdIev12fCPs

NAZ

07-06-2019, 11:30 PM

The mistake I made was to fit my trunk lid to the body before the body was mounted to the chassis. Once mounted, the body took on a different curvature and the trunk lid no longer fit. My fix was relatively easy but not sure how others handled this.

Since I was installing a spoiler I fabricated the vertical "sides" with a curve that matched the body and once the spoiler was mounted to the deck lid it pulled everything in to match. Just something to be aware of.

peterh226

07-07-2019, 03:03 PM

I have a mix of rivnuts and screws right now. Plan to go all rinuts with smaller washers. 110321. 110322
A little trimming remains. This edge will need some windlace to make it looks finished.

peterh226

07-07-2019, 09:10 PM

Here's the details for my firewall after powder coating.
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I did a little filing to clean up the sharp edges from manufacturing and also to clear the tubes at the bottom of the foot boxes. Upper areas around welds were OK.
Fits really well. Will use Hex Head Pan Heads to attach. Probably 10-32.

peterh226

07-08-2019, 07:23 PM

I was measuring my hardtop to see why it was not fitting as well as desired. I'm not sure how much I can 'persuade' the top to get into the shape I need. Also, they now do not have the inner liner to finish it off (cost savings I guess) so that will take some extra creativity as well.
110392 Here's the PDF of the drawing I made. The Sides are not equal (~5/8 off) and the diagonals are off by over an inch. Can I twist this all as I bolt it on to get it to line up? Any suggestions?

Trying to fit a quadrilateral into a square hole...

NAZ

07-08-2019, 07:55 PM

Had the same issue with mine. Proved to be a real issue since I built a full cage that had to fit as close as possible to the top. I mounted my top permanent and tweaked it as close as possible but it's still far from being symmetrical. Also, don't be surprised if the body moves a bit as it ages.

peterh226

07-08-2019, 08:06 PM

If I persuade it to get close to position and then leave it out in the sun for a while I don't know if that will help, hurt, or not make any difference! Thanks for the confirmation.

Michael101

07-09-2019, 07:05 AM

Trying to fit a quadrilateral into a square hole...

Oh boy, not looking forward to dealing with more body issues after what I’ve dealt with on the front of the car. I guess that’s just part of the joy but man I get really aggravated at the lack of quality. Especially with the lack of symmetry between the left and right parts. From seeing what you’re facing I’m may try making a wooden jig to strap my top to and leave it out in this Texas heat for a while.

peterh226

07-14-2019, 06:48 PM

After playing around and reading through lots of comments, I also called FFR and chatted with them about some fit questions.

For the Hood, lower valence and sides, the key is to be prepared to trim the hood a lot more than you think. If you look carefully at the Blue 33 that FFR has on their website, you can see a bit better.

So, first step: Get the hood and Radiator set up the way you want. I saw somewhere the top of the grill to cowl length of the hood is 43". With that set, I fit the hood. 110709 Fit is level and straight.

Next is to fit the hood side so the top edge aligns with the trim and then slide the lower piece forward a bit to get a bit more room if you need it.
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If you look at the front at the Radiator, I marked where the extension of the molding would extend.110713
Here's where the hood was trimmed back - the top of this tape line. 110714

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After trimming, here's how it looks at the cowl. Still some fitting to be done here.
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Think of this as a top down fitting...

The other area to work on was getting the roof to align. The recommendation is to install the back part of the roof into the correct location. Then persuade the front A-pillars to move to where they should be. I used straps to the chassis to pull into place and will set it out in the sun for a few days before drilling the front hold down locations.
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1932

07-14-2019, 10:29 PM

If you can get the car out in the hot sun it should help with top.

peterh226

07-15-2019, 11:07 AM

Yup. She’s out sunbathing now!

peterh226

07-18-2019, 07:57 AM

After discussions with Tony and Dan at FFR, I've got the panels fitting a lot better.

Here's where I started:

110841
- The top was persuaded to go to it's proper location by a couple of days in the sun with straps pulling it into place followed by bolting in place.

- The drivers door was also convince to join the party and fit into place by adding a couple of washers and pulling/twisting the internal beam to adjust the twist in the door. Once all of this is where it needs to be then tighten all of the steel down to its final torque as you are never going to remove it again. The Hinge pins are then your only attach points you need to deal with.

Here's how it fits now:
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Now on to the hood and sides.

1932

07-18-2019, 12:37 PM

Good for you!

AJT '33

07-18-2019, 12:45 PM

I also see that the Gen 2 hard top fits better to the body and has more distinctive lines that line uop with the body better. I would be interested how the windows will go in if you have some. Nice Work.

peterh226

07-18-2019, 01:09 PM

AJT '33

07-19-2019, 07:21 AM

The top did not fit that great - but with Persuasion (and bolting it in) I was able to get it all to line up. I'm hoping some time in the sun will relieve the stress a bit. The newer top does not have a liner which may provide more flex, but then more work to finish the inside.

So the newer top has no inside liner other than the area where you can put in a sunroof if you wanted to??? Would appreciate seeing a picture of that id possible, that's a step back in my opinion. If I do another one, and knowing that, I would then do the ragtop instead, as well others may want to know that. TY!!

peterh226

07-19-2019, 11:51 AM

Here you go... Note no Rubber seal at this point.
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peterh226

07-21-2019, 07:19 PM

Got the hood sides fit so I'm pretty happy with them. Got some good clearance for the hood to set down over the flush screws at the back and a couple of 10-24 screws threaded into the Radiator shell at the front.
I also fit the dash in place - that was pretty easy.

I tried to get the lowers to fit but finally gave up and just sectioned them about 1/2 inch. I pop-riveted some pieces to hold them in place and then I hope to fiberglass the joints this week. There is still some mismatch between the hood side and the lower, haven't decided how (or if) I want to bother since it will be hidden from the front fender.
The section cutting was really a mind over matter internal game, not thrilled it needed that much adjustment, but in the end it's not that big a deal.
Here's the overall side view, I'll adjust some gaps and make it better once I've put it all back together. 111038
At the back edge I relieve the Hood to clear these screws that are almost flush. 111037
Once the hood is closed, looks good. 111039

Lots of learning, the first time is always interesting!

AJT '33

07-22-2019, 07:27 AM

Here you go... Note no Rubber seal at this point.
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WOW! That is way different! Better for FFR to fabricate and you to install however how do they show this is finished? Even though there was "challenges" with the original hard top, regardless of that, I still prefer the original with the finished inside. VERY curious to see and understand how this is now going to be finished, Glued in vinyl?? Rear view mirror attachment? Wow my mind is spinning on how different items would need to be installed. Appreciate you sharing, it will be something that i will need to look at if I do another one!

peterh226

07-22-2019, 11:48 AM

AJT '33

07-22-2019, 12:52 PM

I'm not sure how I'm going to finish of the inside. I need to install, CHSML, Rear Camera, Maybe a grab handle and some lights. I'm thinking about a panel at the front, back and sides, and then a headliner. Definitely a lot different efforts than the old Hard Top. Maybe just some glued in padding and vinyl!

If you need to add blocking to affix stuff to it I would recommend a proper adhesive like an ITW Plexus MA550. It's expensive and stinks however it will adhere like crazy! The only real downfall is the applicator gun,however there are alternative gun out there that a lot cheaper. only other way is glass on blocks and screw into them then do a vinyl glue over cover fit by someone onto it. The more I type the more I even don't like what they did here, would have preferred and option of one or the other. Did you ask by chance?? I'll be following what you do.

peterh226

07-22-2019, 02:03 PM

Didn't know what they used to do until well after I got the top. Didn't really think about it even though I saw the old style top at Build School. Just starting to think about it at this point.

NAZ

07-22-2019, 02:30 PM

In areas that are rough fiberglass and difficult to provide a finished look, consider using Raptor bedliner from Upol. It sticks great to fiberglass and provides a textured look that can be painted over. It also comes in different colors. You can apply it fairly thick if needed.

I cut up my body quite a bit and built a new chassis so that left many rough interior areas that normally get covered on a typical build. I used Raptor on these exposed areas to give a more finished look.

peterh226

07-23-2019, 06:45 PM

Both lower panels have now been sectioned and fiberglassed back together. Still some fitting and filler needed, but I can see progress and it starting to look like a car. Clamped the fenders in place to get more of a feel where they will line up. Doesn't look like there is any real trimming needed for the fenders, just some edge sanding. I want to add some vents of some kind to the hood sides, so now I have some images to work from.

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if you look closely you can see my section lines. since it's mostly hidden I was not to worried about mistakes. Now I can have some fun and finish to whatever level I want.

peterh226

07-28-2019, 08:03 PM

I wanted to get enough done with all of the body work that I understood the kinds of things I'd need to do to finish it off. At this point I want to see how some of the mechanical bits all fit in, so next step will be to remove the panels and work on the go-cart. The trunk opens and closes, the doors as well. Need to fit the pins for the bearclaws and the hood hinge once I get it (Still POL).
Next step: Go-Kart.
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Here's a couple of walk arounds as well

https://youtu.be/uKlXNPY7oEw

Here's one where they are closed. https://youtu.be/pnEekz6y0j8

Lots of stuff to learn...

AJT '33

07-29-2019, 11:19 AM

I wanted to get enough done with all of the body work that I understood the kinds of things I'd need to do to finish it off. At this point I want to see how some of the mechanical bits all fit in, so next step will be to remove the panels and work on the go-cart. The trunk opens and closes, the doors as well. Need to fit the pins for the bear claws and the hood hinge once I get it (Still POL).
Next step: Go-Kart.
111467 111468 111469 111470 111471

Lots of stuff to learn...

Man you did it the RIGHT WAY!!! Your build will now shoot forward like lightning compared to all of us who got all the equipment in first then dealt with that after and got frustrated because it slowed down. WELL DONE!!! Now you can have fun in getting the "easy stuff" underway. Again, WELL DONE!

peterh226

07-29-2019, 01:43 PM

I’m hoping so! All of the mechanical and other stuff is like playing in a candy store, so I wanted to get some comfort with the body stuff. My next plan is to tip the chassis on its side and drill all of the holes for the lower floor. I don’t want to crawl underneath and do that.

Plimpton

07-29-2019, 05:44 PM

Your body work will provide us other Gen 2 builders with a good feel for what is required. It looks really good! I’m a little jealous and Since I am building almost verbatim from the manual, I have not done any body work yet. Can I ask what may be a silly question? How are you trimming the fiberglass. It appears it ranges from minor sanding to radical cutting. What tools are you using and for what?

peterh226

07-29-2019, 07:55 PM

I bought a bunch of Milwaukee M12 tools. Drill, 1/4 driver, Hackzall (good for fiberglass, but gotta be careful), jig saw (not my favorite for the car), 3/8 ratchet. Helps on some fasteners. The drill and driver are required items.

I have a small 4.5 inch angle grinder which is really good for taking your frustrations out on things. With a flap disk it will remove way more material than you can imagine very quickly. With great power comes more body filler. But with a very light touch, it is useful.

I use a DA sander on a lot of the edges as well. It can take a bit but you have good control.

I use a long Durablock to try and keep things straight. Especially along edges. I’ve got a few gaps that may need some kitty hair type filler, but the Rage Extreme is the main stuff I’m using. Still sets up quicker than I would like.

Silver sharpie is your best friend to mark on the body. This works well as a guide for where to cut and how far you have cut. 1/4 auto tape (green stuff) is good for figuring out some lines.

I build a rolling frame with 6in casters to hold the frame and the mounted body. This has been great as I wheel it outside as much as I can to keep the dust outside. A shop vac to pick up the plastic dust is a good idea as well.

The tool you use (and the grit of the paper) is just a reflection of how aggressively you want to attack it. I’ve really tried to take it slow to get what I want. I spent all day yesterday on the doors and they are still not quite where I want them. There are so many adjustments it gets really frustrating when you can’t get it to align. Also, remember the fiberglass moves a lot so it’s really the steel that you have to hold, twist, and bolt at the same time.

The main body of Gen 2 does seem to be good, but the rest is a real trial and error process. The dash was the easiest thing to fit!

sethmark

07-29-2019, 08:17 PM

Great post. What grit sand paper and da pads? Did you round edges with the da after filler or just rounded the hard corners?

peterh226

07-29-2019, 11:46 PM

Harbor Freight and Eastwood 80 grit with some finer stuff for blocking the roof. I have my gaps a bit too tight in some places so I have some room to sand. I do try and bevel it a bit from the front to the back, but the detailed rounding will some later. In not clear what I’m gonna do.

Michael101

07-30-2019, 08:13 PM

I do try and bevel it a bit from the front to the back, but the detailed rounding will some later. In not clear what I’m gonna do.

Take a look at Soft-Sanders sanding blocks. They have several useful contours that can help with rounding panel edges.

peterh226

07-31-2019, 12:28 AM

Yup, I got a set of those and some 220 & 400 paper. All for the next step.

1932

07-31-2019, 01:12 AM

I would not do my final gaps until car is on the ground with all the parts in, that way it is as it will be on road.

peterh226

07-31-2019, 08:51 PM

Yup. That is my plan. Just trying to get it in the ballpark.

peterh226

08-19-2019, 04:33 PM

First I wanted to get the lower skin ready to attach so I didnt have to drill up into the chassis while on Jack Stands.112594 Cleco's are really cool. 112595 I also ground down some of the welds where I wanted it to sit a bit flatter.

At the build school, they suggested some slots to allow grease to escape to the ends of the bushings. Sounded like a good idea:
112596

The suspension mount holes continue to be a continuing source of confusion (at least to me). I ended up using the top mounts on both. The Upper so I could mount the radiator where I wanted, and the lower because it does not allow for any droop in the lower holes.
112597

And a little Big Brake Porn. After looking at a bunch of Ferrari's at the museum with the carbon brakes, these are small but a whole lot cheaper and will be great for this car. 112598

FF33rod

08-19-2019, 05:27 PM

The suspension mount holes continue to be a continuing source of confusion (at least to me).

From a Gen 2 33 suspension thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31214-Gen-II-suspension-mount-holes&p=376272#post376272), Jim Schenck had the following to say about the upper and lower holes....

The coupe and 818 have a street height set of holes and a low/race height set of holes an inch higher on the chassis. The truck and 33 have a standard height set of holes and a tall ride height set that are just under an inch lower. We added the holes on the 33/truck to help with extra clearance on the full fenders or if someone wants to add extra rake or run taller rear tires they can put just the back at the higher height.

The key for all the cars is the higher holes equals lower ride height and lower holes equals higher ride height, which is not always intuitive with the chassis on jackstands.

Dduty

08-19-2019, 09:19 PM

peterh226

08-20-2019, 07:39 AM

Yup. Sanded down smooth and then added filler to finish it off. I used some of the really hard marine stuff to fill it since I need to cut it open for windows later on.

AJT '33

08-20-2019, 07:43 AM

Yup. Sanded down smooth and then added filler to finish it off. I used some of the really hard marine stuff to fill it since I need to cut it open for windows later on.

Was it glassed together underneath on the interior cavity? I had done that to provide the connection across the panel, mine is a Gen1 so I can see its different than this, this looks like a better setup if you have side windows or not.

peterh226

08-20-2019, 07:43 AM

I tried the lower holes, but they would not work with the lower control arms.

The Passenger side can droop (using upper hole).
The Driver side contacts the chassis and has no droop

112632

Dduty

08-20-2019, 02:08 PM

I tried the lower holes, but they would not work with the lower control arms.

The Passenger side can droop (using upper hole).
The Driver side contacts the chassis and has no droop

112632

I had no problems with the lower holes. But my question is about which hole to use for connecting the coil overs to the upper control arm. The manual still shows the old style arm and doesn’t mention which to use. Most Gen2 builds I’ve seen use the top hole. One person at F5 thought the lower as right. Thoughts?

peterh226

08-20-2019, 02:22 PM

Dduty

08-21-2019, 10:39 AM

Can you take a picture of your lower control arm at the chassis? As you can see in my picture there was no droop so no way it would work.
For the Top Shock, I think either will be ok with a small difference in the ride height. I might move mine to the lower holes...

Everything seems to have a good range of motion and no interference.

I hope this is what you’re looking for.

112757

peterh226

08-21-2019, 09:58 PM

Where I'm having a concern is that I'm running full fenders so I should be using the lower mounting points to get some extra spacing to the fenders. But, it gets really tight and seems to have only about 3 inches of suspension travel. Most likely the engineer in me overthinking all of the geometry challenges. I think I'm going to try the lower holes for the lower arms with the bolts for the rear pivot pointing up (per Jim S) to get a little more clearance. I'm sure I'll be able to adjust the ride height with the spring preload later on (although that will be tricky to get to).

Lot of opportunities for learning.

peterh226

08-23-2019, 10:10 PM

I know its overkill especially after some Loctite, but why not learn another skill along the way.
112878

FF33rod

08-23-2019, 11:30 PM

Did the same thing, fun and it looks cool!

peterh226

08-25-2019, 05:24 PM

First the Rear brakes. Mounted the adapter plate to the housing the other way to get enough clearance to the rotor. 112925. Once the caliper is attached all looks OK. 112926.

Next, I mounted the front brake lines. First rivets in the chassis!! 112927 112928

Got the steering all in and working. The effort is not as smooth as I'd like. It's not binding, but stiffens up. Nothing is hitting anywhere, just a bit of uneven torque is needed. 112924 112929 112930 Maybe someone will see something unusual in the pictures.

Also got the Pedal assembly mounted and ready to start on the brake lines.

HINT: Put the D-Shafts in the freezer for a while to help them go into the universal joints a bit easier.

peterh226

09-01-2019, 10:35 PM

Found quite a collection of Bolts, Nuts, Washers, and spacers to make things fit in the rear. Here's some pictures of what it looks like right now.

113534
The top of the shock still needs spacers. Looks like a coarse thread for this one.

113535
One end of the link needs a washer.

113536
The other end of the link looks good

113537
I don't like the large washers for the shock, but the panhard rod looks OK.

113539
The lower arms were OK anyway!

I'm going for a snug fit supporting the heims joints.
Seems to be a mix of when to use washers under the head of bolts and nuts.
I'm planning to use the fine thread bolt fo the lower rear shock mount to get enough length. Just need to find a couple of nuts to fit.

Anyone else have fun installing the 3-Link?

peterh226

09-01-2019, 10:39 PM

Added some fun to the garage: 113542

113544 I was confused after read the various instructions about what to use in the Moser rear end I got through the FFR order. I sent a note to Moser and that is what they recommended and said no additive was needed and that it would take 2.5 quarts.

113545 Here is how I both raised the rear into place and also use this to hold it close to where it will be once it sits on the ground. The straps make is easy to adjust the height.

113543 I got some new .25in Spacers for the radiator. Seems to be just fine. Getting all of this stuff together was a bit of a struggle, but seemed to work out OK. Trying to get all the space I can for the radiator.

peterh226

09-03-2019, 09:12 PM

I went with the OTB Gear triple reservoir as others have. I was hoping to have all lines hidden but I chickened out and have one line out the bottom. Guess I’m not as brave as Seth!
So I created a template and then got the positioning I wanted. Measured about 20 times.
113703
Once attached, looks just fine.
113704
Need to finish routing lines, but should work just fine.
113705

sethmark

09-03-2019, 09:31 PM

I wish you’d said something. I have a jig for it.

I OBSESSED over it for quite a while... ultimately, there’s so much crap you can’t hide it all! Yours looks great. No one will ever notice.

Oh and the 3 link was a challenge. I got the wrong spacers more than once. But the customer service at HQ killed and we got it right.

Michael101

09-04-2019, 06:56 PM

I like that Peter, think that I may go the same route. Does it clear your hood ok?

peterh226

09-04-2019, 09:58 PM

Yeah, it's pretty close but OK. If you look at the top picture, the hood is positioned over the template.

peterh226

09-07-2019, 09:09 PM

I’ve been thinking about how to mount the seats and wanted to flexibility and adjustments as I know vision out of this contraption will be challenging. So here’s where I’m at.
113901
I’m planning on a grade 8 bolt through the chassis (yikes) with some large load distributing washers below.
Here are the parts I used
113902
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-sr400/
Both from Summit.

peterh226

09-08-2019, 08:56 PM

Today was install the engine and see if things fit. There are a bunch of things for the interior (seat mounts) and other routing I want to plan. So, this is a test install and I'll probably remove it to do the floors and drill other stuff.
113969

The front clearance for one of the steering rack mount was going to interfere with the pulley so I ground it down a bit. I'm using a Blueprint 383 which has the March front mounts.
113970 113971

I then created new spacers from galvanized pipe as my hardware store didn't have any stainless tube. I moved the engine back 1/2 inch total.

113973

113974

I'm using the Flowtech headers and the downpipe attached just fine.
113968

Looks like it belongs here
113972

sethmark

09-08-2019, 09:04 PM

Snug! Looks amazing. I almost wish I went sbc.

peterh226

09-08-2019, 09:10 PM

I like the old SBC look. The coil on plugs don't look good and I just don't like front offset distributors. I know the Coyote and LSX motors make a ton of power, but I've got more than enough with this and the Sniper should make it driveable with ease.
That's the fun of these - lots of room for little (or big) things to make it your own.

NAZ

09-09-2019, 09:10 AM

The newer engines are technical marvels and with the computer controls and power adders make reliable power with great fuel mileage. The LS versions are especially capable of making power at a reasonable cost. Hot rodders have been transplanting these engines in all sorts of cars and trucks and have been increasing power for years. You can find a lot of support in the aftermarket for them so it's no surprise they are so popular.

And still that little SBC that first appeared in 1955 has a strong following today and can make plenty of reliable power for less $$ than most other engines. There is wide array of support in the aftermarket which helps drive down the cost of building one. And the SBC has the right period look in the Hot Rod if you want to run without a hood. Hard not to like the SBC for applications like these little cars where space is limited.

peterh226

09-09-2019, 10:07 PM

Got the seat mount figured out.
114064
I can reach the pedals!
114065

FF33rod

09-09-2019, 11:50 PM

Good stuff Peter, how's the height with all those bits in there?

peterh226

09-10-2019, 07:37 AM

I’m 5-7” so the height should help with forward vision. I’ll put the body on one of these days to check. I’ll add a picture then. But i played with it even higher and had room.

Update! ******
I put the body on and the top and clamped the seat in place. The picture out is a little higher than my view. I am thinking I will be looking out the upper areas of all of the windows.
114128

Here's the outside view. I attached the fenders so I could measure clearances for tires. A lot of money for those not to have them fit OK.
114129

peterh226

09-10-2019, 10:32 PM

Yikes! I measured the rear wheel wells and I've determined that 295 or 305 should fit just fine. Pretty sure I'm going with the AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome 17x8 in front and 18x10 in the rear. Looking for tires to fit is a pain! Not a lot of options if you want them to be a set.

Options:
Toyo Proxes 888
235/45ZR17
295/30ZR18

Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3
295/3ZR18 (25 in OD)
245/45ZR17 (25.7 OD)

YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R
295/30 R18
245/45 17

The Toyo's are really race tires (I used to run BFG R1's and they were great on the track, not on the street). The Goodyears are more street friendly.

Any comments from the illustrious peanut gallery? What have people actually been driving on (and sending up in clouds of smoke)?

NAZ

09-11-2019, 07:49 AM

114137

Front: TorqThrust 18x9-5.0" BS, Proxes R888 255/35ZR18
Rear: TorqThrust 18x10-5.74 BS, Proxes R888 315/30ZR18 (will fit under full rear fenders)

peterh226

09-17-2019, 07:20 AM

I’ve got the FFR EFI kit as well as all the stuff from Blueprint for a 383 with the Sniper EFI. I like the idea of mounting it behind the waterfall so that is the plan. The quick disconnect at the fuel pickup has a really small outlet so I got a kit from Autozone to change it to 3/8. Then it will go through the filter, pump, filter, then to a bulkhead, then hard line to the base of the firewall, the AN-6 to a fitting with the pressure gauge and the on to the Sniper regulator.
- do I need any more of a pressure regulator? Seems like this is ok from the diagrams.
- 5/16 return line is the plan.
- I’m planning to make the waterfall removable for servicing. 2 slots instead of holes.
114467

FF33rod

09-17-2019, 10:19 AM

No, no regulation before the Sniper is needed.

peterh226

09-17-2019, 10:55 AM

No, no regulation before the Sniper is needed.
Cool. This should work out well then. On to fabrication!

peterh226

09-22-2019, 06:12 PM

sethmark

09-22-2019, 06:26 PM

Looks good. The pump is noisy. Fair warning. I would expect to need to insulate the waterfall. You’re assessment of the tank is right. I needed a couple of gallons of gas to keep the engine running on first start. Probably going to read empty with 2 gallons.

peterh226

09-23-2019, 07:25 AM

Yeah. I was checking the clearance to the waterfall - Planning on Dynamat back there. Need to find a place to hang the evaporation canister. No mention of that in the instructions! I guess just need to hook up the pressure relief hose from the top of the tank.

sethmark

09-23-2019, 07:59 AM

I hung the canister where the battery would go if it were underfloor. The hose goes from the vent to the evap.

AJT '33

09-23-2019, 08:36 AM

Installed the fuel tank today. I was surprised to see how large the sump is for the fuel. Looks like some slosh will fill it up but the tank needs to be more than 1/3 full to keep the sump full. Not sure of the design of fuel tanks but it looks interesting.
114711
Here’s where I’m at. Any thoughts?

I would suggest mounting the pump and filters underneath from where you have it so its accessible from below. We had already replaced a fuel pump as it ran dry briefly and it was toast so replacing it from below went fairly well. Where it is now you will need to pull off the waterfall, seats and hard top to gain access. Just a suggestion.
This is where we mounted mine.
114744 114745

FF33rod

09-23-2019, 01:16 PM

Need to find a place to hang the evaporation canister. No mention of that in the instructions! I guess just need to hook up the pressure relief hose from the top of the tank.

Evaporation canister? do you mean a charcoal filter canister that some seem to make up? I didn't get anything like this in my kit....

sethmark

09-23-2019, 01:40 PM

It’s in the efi kit....

FF33rod

09-23-2019, 01:47 PM

might have disappeared when I deleted the FFR gas tank....

peterh226

09-23-2019, 10:15 PM

It’s in the efi kit....
Does the orientation matter?
114796
Here’s what we’re talking about for anyone else reading this.

peterh226

09-23-2019, 10:19 PM

Installed the firewall part of the kit before
I start putting all of the stuff on the frame here.
Before
114797
After
114798
Deciding when to do things is an interesting challenge with the build.

sethmark

09-24-2019, 04:52 AM

It mounts with the hose inlets up.

sethmark

09-24-2019, 04:53 AM

Installed the firewall part of the kit before
I start putting all of the stuff on the frame here.
Before
114797
After
114798
Deciding when to do things is an interesting challenge with the build.

i wish they told,you, but you have to cut the insulation back an inch for the body lip.....

peterh226

09-24-2019, 08:40 AM

i wish they told,you, but you have to cut the insulation back an inch for the body lip.....

LOL. I was poking holes in the stuff forgetting it would need to be flush! Thanks for the reminder. Order of operations and interdependencies is really crazy with building a vehicle.

sethmark

09-24-2019, 08:52 AM

Man you said that nicely. The hardest part is knowing what’s next after what’s next.

peterh226

09-24-2019, 11:28 AM

At this point I know how most of the systems will fit together, it now deciding when to drill holes to mount the seats (like while you can still see the frame). I'm thinking that I am ready to put the composite floor in so I can the fit the transmission tunnel.

HVACMAN

09-24-2019, 11:58 AM

might have disappeared when I deleted the FFR gas tank....

I don't think they came with the Gen 1, but I had the tank delete also, so I'm not sure114849. I purchased one from Amazon and piped it to the purge valve then created a circuit with a mini time delay relay to power it. It energizes the purge valve for 30 seconds when you crank it.114839

peterh226

09-25-2019, 08:52 PM

It mounts with the hose inlets up.
Excellent. Thanks!

peterh226

09-25-2019, 09:02 PM

I had drilled the holes underneath before mounting the engine so I could turn the frame on it’s side. I’m not a fan of metal shavings near my eyes. So I just needed to drill the top side panels.
Once that was done i checked the fit of the structural panels and sanded a little bit to get them to fit.
114992
I attached the lower panels. They are powder coated argent so will look ok from below. Next, I checked the fit of the panels.
114993
The white stuff that FFR recommends is pretty easy to spread. I used about 98% of the 4 tubes. Spread it around so it will stick on all sides.
Attached the top panels and it’s starting to really look like a car.
114994
114995
I used a harbor freight pop-rivet air tool and that is a lot easier on the hands.;)
Acetone is you friend to keep the white glue from being a mess everywhere.
The floor feels really solid with this composite construction.

sethmark

09-25-2019, 09:22 PM

I was really happy with the floor. Seems to eliminate heat intrusion too..

peterh226

10-17-2019, 04:33 PM

As the Gen 2 folks have seen, the fuel pickup and the body have a fight about trying to share the same space. So, after seeing this problem and realizing the waterfall would only make it worse, I decided the only fix was to change the orientation of the pickup stuff.

116175
Here you can see I've twisted the pickup tube along the length so it will better fit into the sump area of the fuel tank.

116176
Here a little welding to put it back into place.

116177
Now you can see the orientation of the pickup and the outside tubes.

116178
Of course the holes in the top are indexed so it will only mount 1 way. I drilled one new hole and relieved a couple of the others so it would fit

116179
And here you can see the result with the body in place.

Never a dull moment. I hope this works OK.

peterh226

11-02-2019, 06:39 PM

Hi folks,
I've got a Small Block Chevy with TKO500 (Blueprint). Also using a Moser 3-Link rear end. Gen 2 has some new wrinkles with new the composite floor - I think it will be great, but causes some vertical exhaust clearance issues. At this point everything is close, but not quite fitting and I'd like some advice.
- The exhaust is very close to the floor. It seems like the new floor needs new Header pipes that would drop the flange down about 5/8 - 3/4 of an inch so everything would fit OK compared to the old Gen 1 exhaust.
- If I drop the rear of the transmission down, I gain enough clearance on the Driver's side exhaust, but it's still a bit short on the passenger side. Also this reduces room for the driveshaft.
- The drive shaft needs to run almost parallel to the floor. If I let the rear suspension hang down, then the driveshaft will make contact at the rear of the floor. I don't think this is a good idea!

Options I'm considering:
- Mount the transmission as close to the floor as I can at the back while still having clearance for the driveshaft yoke. will probably end up with ~1/4 to the floor at the housing, but I could cut away some of the transmission housing to get a little clearance. I'm more concerned about the driveshaft yoke as the limiting factor.

- The passenger exhaust transition piece just seem like it is not going to work as is. It needs to be about ~5/8 lower at the flange to have the rest fit OK.

- I'm worried about the driveshaft and the axle at droop when unloaded. Has anyone tried adding cables or something that would hold up the rear axle if you jack it up even to change a tire? The maximum distance I am seeing between the top of the axle housing and the top of the frame above is about 9-1/2 inches. If the axle droops more than that, then the driveshaft is gonna contact the floor. It looks like if the rear axle goes up (so that clearance drops to maybe 7-1/2 inches) then the top link may touch the frame.

Here's some pictures to illustrate what I'm seeing. I will be getting my wheels and tire next week so I can drop it down and see the rear axle location.

117033
Here you can see the transmission at the lowest it can go without cutting away some of the housing. The Yoke has very little clearance at the back edge with the Rear axle being supported.

117034 117035
This is a squirrel's eye view of the passenger exhaust flange. It's just too close to the frame and there is no adjustment available since the muffler and emergency brake have some space needs farther back. Since I will have to raise up the transmission 1/4 to get at least a little clearance, that will only make this area worse.

Anyone else with a Gen 2 and SBC seeing something like this?

sethmark

11-02-2019, 07:04 PM

1. I’m running the coil overs in the top set of holes to limit droop.

2. FFR sent me extra exhaust spacers which I stacked and welded to get exhaust clearance.

3. It all works. But it does require some dialing.

peterh226

11-02-2019, 09:06 PM

The tail of your transmission is way higher than I’m looking at. Have you checked your pinion angle?
I’ll try the various mounting holes at the back once I have the wheels and tires.
I think that doing whatever I need on the exhaust downtube will be what i need to do.

sethmark

11-02-2019, 09:34 PM

That particular picture is apparently before o adjusted the motor height. The transis as low
as possible. I’m sorry I picked the wrong photo.

peterh226

11-02-2019, 10:16 PM

No problem. I’m more worried about the driveshaft and the rear end. I’ll see what that looks like with the wheels in place and the go from there on the exhaust.

sethmark

11-03-2019, 06:28 AM

It all took some dialing. The relationship between engine and rear axle is critical, of course. I have a lot of time in it. But it works.

sread

11-03-2019, 11:25 AM

I have a gen 1 and have the rear suspension jacked up to run a taller tire but have to use a limit cable to prevent driveshaft contact at full extension. Looking at your pics, you definitely need to raise the trans some more. Get the engine, trans, and rear end relationship right, then deal with the exhaust. Most likely you will have to modify or remake that front down pipe - it seems to be a problem with pretty much all the various Chevy engine platforms people use.

peterh226

11-03-2019, 02:02 PM

peterh226

11-05-2019, 01:35 PM

117168
Cool Dakota Digital gauges.

sethmark

11-05-2019, 01:43 PM

Damn those are pretty. I’m very please with the quality and simplicity of the gauges I just installed from them.

GoDadGo

11-05-2019, 01:50 PM

peterh226

11-05-2019, 02:36 PM

After playing around with moving the trans mount up and down, I now have it back to where it was originally. I added about 1/2 of spacers at the exhaust flange on the passenger side and I think that will end up making the exhaust for with the new floor.
There is only about 1/4 inch (8mm???) between the muffler and floor. But that is what the muffler supports work out to be as well.
I mounted the muffler hangers with 5/16 Riv nuts into the frame.

GoDadGo

11-06-2019, 11:35 AM

Peter,

We shifted things around last night and were able to gain the necessary clearance.
Thanks again for the help with the drive-line placement.

Steve

peterh226

11-23-2019, 02:06 PM

It’s so cool to see it at ride height!
117928. 117929

sethmark

11-23-2019, 02:26 PM

I can’t wait to see it. Moving shop tomorrow to Virginia.

FF33rod

11-23-2019, 03:42 PM

Looks great Peter! how big are the rears?

Steve

sread

11-23-2019, 05:35 PM

Thanks for the feedback. What did you do for a limit cable?

pick up truck tail gate cables - no particular one, just the approximate length wanted - I think it was about 13 inches if I remember right.

peterh226

11-23-2019, 10:52 PM

Looks great Peter! how big are the rears?

Steve

YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

Finding matching tires was part of the challenge that factored into the selection. Also, I didn't want full R tires, these will be sticky enough!

peterh226

12-07-2019, 11:19 PM

Here’s the straps I used so the rear doesn’t cause the driveshaft to hit the frame.
118629 118628
Fit like it was designed to be there!

Mastercraft Limit Straps 214004 from Summit - 14" eye to eye
1" - 1/2-13 Grade 8 hex bolt with nyloc nut
Drilled out lower existing hole/slot to size.

GoDadGo

12-08-2019, 08:44 AM

118629 118628
Fit like it was designed to be there!

I really like the execution because the straps really look like they were designed to be there so Bravo on your solution!
Thanks for posting these pics because we're seeing similar issues on my pal's 33 as well even though we haven't permanently installed the driveshaft yet.

Steve

shmelty

12-14-2019, 10:09 PM

What Flowtech headers are those? I can only find the 11102's in Black :(

peterh226

12-15-2019, 10:01 AM

What Flowtech headers are those? I can only find the 11102's in Black :(
The black is just temporary paint. I had them coated by a local shop.

shmelty

12-15-2019, 10:08 AM

Thank you sir!

peterh226

12-29-2019, 09:31 PM

I wanted to check the wheel and tire fit as well as the under dash area. So many interdependent systems. Got the replacement drivers door fitted. This one is close enough that I will be able to get a fit I’m happy with. Decided to also start on the power windows. Completely new approach with the Gen 2.
I need 1/2” spacers on the rear to prevent contact with the body. Helps fill out the fenders as well. Pictures have wood spacers (really old school!)
119664. 119665. 119666
Making progress anyway!

JOP33

12-30-2019, 06:37 AM

Peterh226, your build is looking awesome, you should be extremely proud!

BC Huselton

12-30-2019, 12:53 PM

peterh226

12-30-2019, 03:51 PM

Peterh226, your build is looking awesome, you should be extremely proud!

Thanks! It sometimes feels like you take steps backwards as you move along sooooo many small details. As I make progress, it really will be something that I built. Just trying to minimize the mistakes. Thanks for the support. It's really fun to see others (like you) get to the finish line (although I'm not sure it is ever finished!).

peterh226

12-30-2019, 03:55 PM

My trim is positioned just like yours. Seems to need some moderate cutting and rewelding to fit. Does anyone have a picture of a completed trim product? David at FFR does not have a picture. The instructions offer limited guidance.

Thanks for your post..I thought I was alone and messed up my door openings.

Not sure about welding... I want to see how the glass ends up being positioned before I commit to anything with these aluminum pieces...
- Polish the aluminum and clear coat?
- Fill and finish in body color?
- Powder coat?
- Bolt/Glue to attach??
- How to address the gap between the aluminum and the top of the door. (I did not fill before cutting the slots)

What is anyone else doing with these Gen 2 changes???

Michael101

12-30-2019, 06:33 PM

I filled the gap on my doors before working with the windows and it seems to work out ok. I did have to remove a small amount of aluminum to get it to work but not much.

119692
119693
119694

peterh226

01-04-2020, 07:25 PM

So I’ve been working on the door guides. The manual is a bit off as some of the measurements are still Gen 1. The 3/8 and 1/2 from a baseline is not enough for the aluminum strips which need more like 1.25 in.
120052

If you look closely you can see in pencil where the opening show up compared to the manual measurements. Since the aluminum pieces have to fit a certain way, I’m going to go with the opening required by these pieces.
120053
Most of the difference is at the front edge.
I found that if you tape the aluminum trip pieces together and turn them upside down on the opposite door you can see how they can fit. You can see the passenger side pieces upside down on the drivers door below.
120060
Also I found that the 19in trim dimension on the window track is not quite enough because of the aluminum. Looks like 18.75 or maybe a little less to clear the trim and the seal.

peterh226

01-12-2020, 09:03 PM

FF33rod

01-13-2020, 08:48 PM

interesting gauge layout. Hadn't seen one before with 2 of the smaller in the middle. What company is that from Peter?

Steve

peterh226

01-17-2020, 11:02 AM

interesting gauge layout. Hadn't seen one before with 2 of the smaller in the middle. What company is that from Peter?

Steve

I got it at a booth at the NSRA show in Kalamazoo MI. http://phoenixmachinellc.com/
120811 120810

peterh226

01-25-2020, 09:56 AM

I had no problems with the lower holes. But my question is about which hole to use for connecting the coil overs to the upper control arm. The manual still shows the old style arm and doesn’t mention which to use. Most Gen2 builds I’ve seen use the top hole. One person at F5 thought the lower as right. Thoughts?

I recently went back and moved the lower control arms to the upper holes. I had to relocate a grease fitting so it would not hit the Power Steering. I am using the Lower hole on the upper shock mount to get extra ground clearance. With some pre-load in the front spring, I'm about 5+ inches for ride height. So I'm happy for now.

peterh226

01-25-2020, 10:12 AM

I had posted some A/C and Heating lines somewhere but wanted update my posting here to be complete.
The HVAC is tight and as others have noted, playing with locations and fittings.
121355 121356

I also got a flapper for the defroster.
121359

peterh226

01-25-2020, 06:57 PM

I got busy today working on the console design.
Ignition and headlight switch will be on a panel under the dash (wife suggestion!). Power window switches on the side. Usable compartment under the armrest as well. USB plugs will be on the front of the armrest. HVAC ports will feed the foot wells as well.
121374

Bgardner

01-26-2020, 02:19 PM

Nice

Very similar to what I am mocking up. Will your stick miss the coffee cup when going through the gears. I'm not sure if I can get 2 cup holders in with my set up but that will be the passengers problem.

Dduty

01-27-2020, 12:08 AM

I recently went back and moved the lower control arms to the upper holes. I had to relocate a grease fitting so it would not hit the Power Steering. I am using the Lower hole on the upper shock mount to get extra ground clearance. With some pre-load in the front spring, I'm about 5+ inches for ride height. So I'm happy for now.

I talked to Jim S. at FFR about which to use.
The lower holes will give more clearance especially if you are running full fenders. By using the upper holes the chassis will run lower. Regardless of which you choose the control arms and coil overs must match.

Dduty

04-09-2020, 11:14 AM

Cut out the dash to get my gauge cluster figured out. Gonna mount the vents way at the ends but may need to play some games to get the vents to lay the way I want. I think I’m going to mount all switches on a to be designed console.
120510

Hey Peter,
The gauge panel is really sharp and I’m looking similar.
I assume the gauge cluster is flat and the dash is slightly convex in that area.
What is the method for mounting it?

peterh226

04-10-2020, 10:33 AM

Hey Peter,
The gauge panel is really sharp and I’m looking similar.
I assume the gauge cluster is flat and the dash is slightly convex in that area.
What is the method for mounting it?

It's billet with machine screws and bent metal clamps - about 6 of them - on the backside. Nothing fancy. I'm using Dakota Digital gauges so I can install easily in the dash panel and then just plug in the network cable. I'm mounting all switches on a panel underneath so there will only be gauges and the A/C outlets in the panel itself.

peterh226

04-26-2020, 07:09 PM

I’ve been going through all of the electrical and sorting out my changes. I don’t want the ignition or lights to be in the dash so I made a panel that will be in front of the fuse panel. I removed the fuel relay and that gives a little more room.

127293
The part where the switches mount is double thick.
127294
Switches Mounted
127295
The Dash will be even with the radio display. So the switches will be behind the dash.

peterh226

06-20-2020, 09:37 PM

I decided to add 1/2 in wheel spacers to the rear to get the tire a bit away from the body and closer to the out side of the fender. As with everything, one things leads to 10 others.
I couldn’t find the length I really wanted so ended up with a set of moroso 3in that I cut down. Harbor freight clamp to push out the old and some spacers and a lug nut to put in the new.
130324
Only got about 4 threads engaged with the original studs.
130322
I used a crowfoot wrench as a spacer and worked great.
130321
This one was a bit to long so I took another 1/4 in off. Ended up shortening the pin by about .6 in.
130323
This length gives a ton of thread engagement.

peterh226

06-20-2020, 10:09 PM

Seats are a tough one. I wanted head rest. Just something about having that support. And since the top will not be removed, looks aren’t as important. I got the kirkey seats and while comfortable for me once in place, they are a lot harder to get in and out of. So, I did some work to get them mounted and might as well share that. After trying several things I ended up with 2x2 tubing so I could mount through the frame and have seat adjusters on top.
130279
Here are the tubes. I welded a stud to go through the frame as I can’t get to that bolt on its in the car.
130283
Here’s it mounted to the sliders that have a couple of standoffs to get the right angle to the floor.
130284
And finally in the car.

peterh226

06-21-2020, 07:45 PM

It works! Sensors are all sensing. Fan is controlled by the sniper EFI ok. Now I can start to worry about all of the other stuff. My light switch and ignition are a bit close to the dash but will be fine. Now to get back to fitting all of the body pieces.
130325 130326

peterh226

06-28-2020, 08:45 PM

Drawing of the layout
130728
I laid out the center points
130684
Then drilled the 2” hole
130685
Connected the holes
130687
Here’s what it look like with the fender and a sample of the mesh I’m going to use
130688

Mesh will be silver like other accents.

1932

06-28-2020, 11:15 PM

I like and will work.

peterh226

07-11-2020, 10:02 PM

wrp

07-11-2020, 11:06 PM

That really looks good.

GoDadGo

07-12-2020, 02:38 AM

Looks like a heck of a good solution to me.

FF33rod

07-12-2020, 09:49 AM

Looks great Peter. Amazing this still needs to be done on gen 2
Steve

peterh226

07-14-2020, 12:09 PM

This was after I sectioned the lowers last summer as well. I dont think I could use the new carbon fiber sides with the fitment issues I've had. Not sure what I've been missing. But, I kinda consider it all part of the fun. The overall body with Gen 2 is the same. Just new doors and they no longer have the inner layer for the top.

Mastertech5

07-20-2020, 09:49 PM

Hi Peter, I just read your whole build thread. It looks like your progressing at a good clip. I plan on getting a 33 kit in the next few months and have been reading ALOT on the forums trying to pick up pointers for my build when that happens. Your doing a great job in my book. Keep up the good work and most of all have fun!

peterh226

07-27-2020, 05:20 PM

Thanks @Mastertech5, the number of issues increases exponentially with the number of options and your creative desires. But it's all fun. Many challenges to overcome.

peterh226

09-05-2020, 11:38 AM

I’ve got a lot of stuff to fit in the top
- windshield wipers from mighty wipers (2)
- grab handles from a junkyard Cadillac
- chmsl from Watson’s
- rear view camera
- something for overhead lighting

Lens and camera mount
134811
grab handle mount
134812
wiper mount. I'm going to configure it so I can remove the wiper motors when I want.
134813
Bonus image. I have added metal to adjust the running boards so the support fits better. About 1/2 inches in and up. Had fun welding and grinding, but will work well.
134814

peterh226

09-20-2020, 08:01 PM

Worked on some details. Been worried about how little fiberglass was at the top front edge so I decided (as others have) to put a metal tab in.

135321
This is with the panel pulled out
135322
Before glassing in place
135323
Back side
135324
With screw attachment.

A little more security where it’s probably not needed!

peterh226

11-15-2020, 10:29 PM

I’m back to the doors and getting the fit right. I’ve been trying too hard not to remove material and finally realized that was part of my problem. So door fit is almost there and close enough to get the inside and outside door mechanisms working.
Got the power windows installed and oriented to the roof. That pretty much defines where the guides need to go. I really don’t get where some of the dimensions come from for this stuff as it just doesn’t fit the way it should. So I’ll have to do some adjustments to the aluminum door pieces or fab something new. But, the window does appear like it will go up and down nicely and be pretty snug to the door seal.
What experience is anyone else having?
137753. 137754

JimLev

11-16-2020, 10:23 AM

I’m working on the door to window seals now.
How does your windows seal to the roof?
I’m having issues with getting the glass to touch the top front of the weatherstrip.

BC Huselton

11-16-2020, 12:46 PM

I’m working on the door to window seals now.
How does your windows seal to the roof?
I’m having issues with getting the glass to touch the top front of the weatherstrip.

I had to open the slot to 1 3/8 the entire length for everything to fit in. Also had to thin out the door top fiberglass because it was too thick to slide in under the aluminum molding and the top edge of the seal. If you slide the seal all of the way up on the molding there is no space for the fiberglass to slide in between.

Also, had to cut and TIG the Molding to conform to the top. I found no way to make the kit molding work without cutting and reworking it.

No trouble with the travel of the glass to the top seal. Check the travel on a bench to see if you have some blockage somewhere.

Good luck

137772

FF33rod

11-16-2020, 12:54 PM

One of these days I need to get back to trying to get the windows lined up properly. Similar to others, the slot needs to be a lot wider than in the manual. Last time I worked on them, I was having trouble getting enough adjustment range in the internal door pieces to get the angle on the window correct so that it was sitting snug to the hard top at the very top. Seems like no matter what I did, it was sticking out from the seal somewhere. I have a feeling I'm going to have to take the whole darn door apart again to make some modifications. I hope gen 2 doors are easier for you.

Steve

peterh226

11-16-2020, 07:32 PM

Yup, that looks like where I’m heading. Not clear if I want to mold it into the door or attach to the top.

peterh226

11-16-2020, 07:36 PM

peterh226

11-28-2020, 07:23 PM

I have brazed the two pieces together and will epoxy the mounting screws in place as studs. I’m going to paint to match the grill and belt line.
138502. 138503
Still will take some smoothing but I think the window seals ok and works well. I’ll take a video one of these days.
Always a chance to learn another skill with this thing.

peterh226

12-17-2020, 09:09 PM

Always another challenge. I have the hardtop and therefore power windows. When I installed the inner and outer door handles, the cable lengths were not working out. So I added a short extension to the clevis at the Bearclaw to make up the difference. I can also see that I will need to route these 2 cables carefully so they dont interfere with the window operation.
139436 Here's the view from the Bearclaw
139437 And from inside.
139438 Door closed and latched.
Lets see if the passenger side is any different. Once I get all the parts in again. I'll show all the stuff in there.

33fromSD

12-21-2020, 07:11 PM

I got back to fitting the front apron. In the Gen 2 it’s two pieces. I tried some alignment last summer and got close but gave up on the front. Today was the day to get back at it.
First I did some alignment and added a metal brace. Then I added a bunch of fiberglass to join and extend the piece.
131628
I used a bunch of layers
131631
And after some fitting I’m happy and it’s gonna work ok.
131636
Tomorrow I hope to get the fenders fitted.

The fit is really nice Peter. Can I ask if you wouldn't mind taking picture of the grill bracket that mounts to the upper control arm. I'm curious to see how far up or down you are on the slot in that bracket. I'm all the way down and I'm just getting into the front apron, mine is way off and I'm wondering if I need to go up on the grill assembly and in a bit on the bottom. Thanks..Jim

peterh226

12-23-2020, 10:29 PM

Drivers side window has a flat surface in the drivers side to seal against. That side is fitting ok.
On the passenger side, the sealing surface is not flat. Just holding the window against the side leaves the top front corner more open - by like 3/8 of an inch or so. Not sure what I can do about this except add a bigger seal at that corner. I guess I need to see how the windshield fits to see how warped anything else is.

peterh226

12-23-2020, 11:04 PM

Door latching spacer and door power needs to be worked. My cables for the door releases were a little short. So I made a little extender of 1/2 and 7/8. Now I have enough reach and it works smoother.
139793 139794

The other piece was to get my door contacts into place. I fit it to the frame as tight as I could. 139795 I then drilled some guide holes and mounted the matching one to the door. 139796 body side.
139797 and matching door side. 139798 and 139799 and you can see how they make contact. These look cool and will work well.

peterh226

12-24-2020, 04:11 PM

I’m working on the door to window seals now.
How does your windows seal to the roof?
I’m having issues with getting the glass to touch the top front of the weatherstrip.

Drivers side is fine. Passenger side looks like I’ll need to change to a thin felt on the front lower edge to have a chance at a seal. If I just hold the window up to the seal surface it’s not flat.

peterh226

12-24-2020, 04:20 PM

Here’s a shot of three area
First the upper control arm. I ended up using the top one as I thought that would support the grill a little higher.
139833
Next you can see I added a couple of hood bumpers as I didn’t like having the radiator able to move too much.
139834
And here’s how the bracket looks at the radiator.
139835
Let me know if you have any other suggestions or questions!!

peterh226

12-27-2020, 08:16 PM

Safety pins for the doors. I got the Carolina Custom kits with the speed sensor electronic control. With the Gen2 door beam I was able to attach it pretty easily. I drilled 2 holes in then beam 1/2 in apart. The first was so I could figure out where to drill the hole in the door. Then I moved it up so I had enough through the door to get engagement in the door frame. Then extend the pin to get the next hole location.
139944
Here’s the mounting.
139945

peterh226

12-27-2020, 08:47 PM

What I learned today.
I decided to test fit the windshield and discovered I should have done that a long time ago! I needed to adjust the window frame so it holds the windshield ok but now I have a big gap to fill. That’s ok, I’m getting better at it. One positive aspect is it helps the passenger side door glass fit a little better.
139951

RoadRacer

12-27-2020, 09:43 PM

Thanks for the hint, I’ll unpack my glass!

1932

12-29-2020, 09:52 PM

Good to see people use the door pins!!

peterh226

01-24-2021, 07:15 PM

The Tunnel is one of the fun parts to get all ready to really commit to. Been working on this and some of the wiring to remove anything I'm not using to make room for the stuff I'm adding!
I added a panel to hold the electrics for the security door pins. 141366
Next on to the Tunnel.
I sprayed Black Raptor on the underside of the fiberglass and the aluminum tunnel. I know that no one but me will probably even notice, but that's OK. The tunnel did not fit up against the firewall very well so I needed fill some gaps. It's too cold to fiberglass (My heater works well, but I dont want to leave it going for a couple of days.) So I used some 2"x1/8" aluminum to fill the gaps. That also provides a good mount for the tunnel as well. The tunnel is all held in with riv-nuts and tapped threads. At least possible to remove without drilling a bunch of stuff.
141367 141368 141369 141370

Next I need to add the heat and sound panels and then check the fit of my console. Then, wiring!

FF33rod

01-24-2021, 08:31 PM

Looking good Peter!

Steve

e36m3

02-06-2021, 12:30 PM

Peter,

Thanks for the tip on the limiter straps!
I just installed them on my chassis too.

Thanks,

Andy

peterh226

03-13-2021, 10:12 PM

33fromSD

03-14-2021, 04:47 AM

There are zillions of ways to do this. Decided to try the copper pipe approach.
144357 laid out on the mounting board.
144358 I used the welding table for support and just worked my way around the soldering and all worked out great.
144359 mounted on the wall. Takes up about 3x5 feet. Hope it helps with the air for painting.

Looks great...great job....In my shop I did something similar, biggest difference is I have one additional loop but same concept.....you'll be surprised at the amount of water you get out of the lines....the valve closest to the inlet will get the most water and then it tapers off each valve after that to the exit but each valve will still have water in it.

Even with this however, I still get some water in my lines in the Fall / winter to my sand blaster upstairs (my shop temp is ~60F in winter).....my bet guess is due to the long run of the line (over 40 feet) to the mezzanine upstairs the heated air from the compressor exiting the coil condenses due to the longer run of cold line. I added an additional water separator at the sand blaster valve which also helped a lot.

All my lines down in the main part of the shop are dry although when I used to paint with air (I have since switched to a turbine HVLP airless system) I ran a cheap disposable water / oil filer at the inlet of my gun to capture any unwanted moisture / oil.

I see you're manifold you made is mounted on an exterior wall by the garage door, you may want to consider putting a piece of 2" thick rigid foam insulation on the backside of the garage door track and then caulking between the foam and the ply wood to block cold Michigan winter air seeping in through the garage door on the manifold to prevent further condensation in the line.

peterh226

03-21-2021, 08:06 PM

I’ve been removing wires from the harness as well as planning how to connect all of the extras together. I’ve been updating and creating new diagrams so I’ll be able to figure out what I did. I’ll post the final diagrams once I check it all out.
144906 I removed the gauges harness and other stuff I didn’t need. Trying to get some space for the ductwork.
144907 144908
I have a lot of stuff wired at the back so the harness will split and some goes up to the top and some out the back.
Here’s my switch panel - lots of wires to organize.
144909

peterh226

05-05-2021, 08:13 PM

Started cleaning up the wiring and put in some carpet.
147411 I wired the Watson switches up so I can remove and install with the build.
147412.
I built a harness between the tail light 147413 and the body. I used a 4 conductor connector to connect to the rear harness.
Next I am making a similar harness to deal with the headlights. I’m going to use some bullet connectors so I can feed it through a grommeted hole.
The last foot is challenging for all these connections!

peterh226

06-04-2021, 12:21 PM

On my Gen 2 I had to trim the rear panel for clearance. Next, I designed and printed a cover that I can pop rivet into place. The carpet will cover this part as well. Here you can see the CAD model and the front and rear as installed.
149013 149014 149015

peterh226

06-06-2021, 10:05 PM

I wanted to make the doors open a bit wider so I welded a piece of angle iron to act as a stop.
149159. 149160 149161 you can see the additional opening it provides while not changing the size.

peterh226

06-21-2021, 07:18 PM

I want to get registered and some miles on it before paint. I’m making a detailed list for assembly so next time it’s easier. Also working on lots of little details. 149756 here’s a piece of vinyl I put to keep some dirt and stuff from coming into the interior.
149759149760 here’s the magnum shooter connector. Got the passenger side working well.
I attached the defroster duct and that pushes up the center of the dash a little bit. I’ll see how the hardtop fits next.
I got the hood release mounted with a metal backing for reinforcement. Hood and trunk latches working well.
Small steps.

FF33rod

06-21-2021, 10:41 PM

Good call on the vinyl piece on the eBrake - I'm finding that's a tremendous source of hot air helping create a sauna in the cockpit.

Steve

33fromSD

06-22-2021, 04:49 AM

Good call on the vinyl piece on the eBrake - I'm finding that's a tremendous source of hot air helping create a sauna in the cockpit.

Steve

Yup...agree...it's amazing the difference in comfort level with tops on these gals verses no top. Even on mine with the rag top, I drove it a few miles with the top on and the heat was really obvious. So much better / comfortable with the top off, but there is still heat radiating up from the chassis, it just doesn't get trapped by the top.

Jim

peterh226

07-11-2021, 05:57 PM

I decided that I need to install the glass to get through all of the registration stuff and I want to get some miles on it before final prep and paint.
I read and watched a bunch of stuff on window installation and decided that by the time I got someone to do it, I might as well try.
150694 here’s the materials. The primer is only good for a week once opened. I got some cheaper dauber and they worked fine. The higher ratio dispenser was required. 18:1 I believe.

150696 here’s what the bead looks like. 1/4 opening tapering to a point over 1/2 inch. This bead stands up and then squishes the right way when you place the window. 150695
Here you can see how I masked stuff to try an minimize cleanup. This stuff is nasty so it’s kinda a one shot deal. I did the rear first and the did a better job on the front. The primer is really black and can be used as additional blackout if needed.

150704 150707
Here you can see the bead standing up.
150705
Where it’s not consistent they call that contamination that is getting cleaned off. 150706
And here is the result with the wipers and my washer special outlet.
150710

peterh226

07-19-2021, 08:47 PM

Applied for the Michigan title today. Sometime in the next 4-6 weeks I’ll get a call for inspection and they will give me the VIN sticker and title. Now I need to figure out how much I can do and still get it back ready for inspection. Small steps.

peterh226

07-25-2021, 02:56 PM

Got a call to verify the emergency brake works. Told me I’d get a call soon (couple of weeks) to set up the inspection. Got a letter in the mail essentially confirming this. So far so good. Now, waiting by the phone!

peterh226

08-08-2021, 07:41 PM

Got through the Michigan registration and got the plate Friday. Figured out a way to get the fenders some more clearance over the tires. 151837 151838 these cables looks to raise the fenders off the tires by about 1.5 inches. I still may need to adjust the ride height, but I think this will make a big difference. Now that I can see what a difference it makes, kinda surprised that there is not something already there providing a bit more support.
Drove the car to the gas station and filled it up!! Calibrated the speedometer (Dakota Digital) and got it up to temp. Seemed to be ok with temps. Lots of heat from the parking brake area. So, will work on that.
Loud, fast, wooooohooooo!!!

peterh226

09-01-2021, 04:34 PM

Great Rendering by https://www.facebook.com/julioccaetano. Cant wait to get going on this look!

152938

e36m3

09-02-2021, 11:44 AM

Hi Peter,

Did you hire Julio to do the rendering? His work is awesome! I'm considering having him do one for me.

Thanks,

Andy

peterh226

09-02-2021, 09:45 PM

Yup, just chatted with him on messenger and sent pictures of the car and this is what he came up with. So cool to have a nice rendering of the car. Metal print arrives soon of it!!

33fromSD

09-03-2021, 08:29 AM

Yup, just chatted with him on messenger and sent pictures of the car and this is what he came up with. So cool to have a nice rendering of the car. Metal print arrives soon of it!!

What does he charge for the renderings and then the metal prints?

Jim

peterh226

09-04-2021, 08:48 AM

Just contact him in messenger and he'll send you his rates. It gets converted to Brazilian Real so it may vary. I ordered the metal print from Costco...

peterh226

09-05-2021, 05:21 PM

This car is a hoot to drive. Got about 100 on it. Noisy, but once the trunk has sound deadened it will be better. Might change mufflers at some point. Ride is better than I thought it might be. Not gonna play with the springs yet. Here are a couple of shots of the rear camera setup.
153040 153041 153042 153043

peterh226

09-08-2021, 07:16 PM

153190 metal print from Costco. This looks really cool!

peterh226

09-11-2021, 05:30 PM

33fromSD

09-12-2021, 04:49 AM

Holley Sniper users. A lot of people have noted that the throttle is reall touchy on the Sniper. Holley makes an extension part number 20-16 that increases the lever arm and throttle travel to reduce this issue. Here’s the install pictures, I can feel a big difference just pushing the gas pedal with my hand. Sine the car is up in the air, can’t take for a drive but this bracket has a lot of positive feedback in online reviews. It does slightly touch the air cleaner, but this is about 1/32 of an inch or less and cannot be felt at the pedal. A little hammer work will take care of it.
153263 153264 153265
Summit number SNE-20-16 $13.87

I just installed this same part on my 70 Challenger with the Holley Sniper EFI, once you drive it, you'll find out that this is a dramatic improvement over what it was before. So much better. I was hesitant to drive the Challenger anymore due to the jerky throttle and constantly doing minor tire squats off the line, now it's smooth riding and fun to drive.

The only thing to note is your bottom bolt should be in the other hole. Here is a clip from Holley showing location.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyvTWv0Iss0

Jim

Brave Salmon

09-12-2021, 12:37 PM

Peter, I use this on my 347 sniper. It really helped but I wanted to point out that the big improvement came with installing the progressive linkage and updating the firmware to use progressive. So much improvement with my AOD that it should be stock setup on the Sniper. Here's a link to a great write up with more info: https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?22553-Progressive-Linkage-makes-Sniper-EFI-WAAAY-Better#post_102336

FF33rod

09-12-2021, 04:12 PM

I had the progressive linkage on my 347 and it definitely tamed it when I was driving it last fall while waiting for the paint shop. Once painted and assembled this year I got disappointed with it. Removed it and LOVE the throttle response, you have to be gentle for sure and I don't drive it in the rain. But I'm not running an automatic so I'm sure that makes a difference....

Steve

peterh226

09-13-2021, 06:20 PM

I’ve been scratching my head about the look of the side panels and after seeing Julio’s render got an idea. I designed oval rings to go around the openings and provide better definition to the holes in the panel. I designed them in solidworks and then sent them off to sendcutsend.com to get cut out of .1 aluminum. Within a week and for less than $70 I have 4 rings for each side. They look great and I’m excited about how they will look.
153343 153344
I would order from these guys again anytime you need some flat stuff cut.

FF33rod

09-14-2021, 12:39 AM

Those look great Peter!

Tampa33Build

09-14-2021, 04:57 AM

Great idea and find. These type of modifications are what makes each car unique!

peterh226

11-25-2021, 02:42 PM

After a visit to Factory Five last week, I now have the updated install kit for the exhaust. The cause of the problem is that the shorty headers were not designed to have precisely located flanges that are needed for the Hot Rod chassis. So, FFR has changed to the cast Ram Horns to ensure a repeatable location. The alternative is to get a custom fitted pipe between the header and muffler.
157645
I’ll add more once installed.
Thanks to FFR. Great to chat with Mr LSX. Hopefully we can get back there again when COVID has become managed.

narly1

11-25-2021, 04:29 PM

I’ve been scratching my head about the look of the side panels...

On the subject of screening used on vents like these I saw a tutorial online for making 3D grilles for audio speakers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2Xp6m_bU2c

Basically it amounts to making 2 piece die out of MDF in the shape you want and squishing the screening in between them to get the shape you want.

That way you could have the mesh recessed, flush, or proud as desired.

Imagine the possibilities!

peterh226

11-26-2021, 11:23 AM

On the subject of screening used on vents like these I saw a tutorial online for making 3D grilles for audio speakers.

Basically it amounts to making 2 piece die out of MDF in the shape you want and squishing the screening in between them to get the shape you want.

That way you could have the mesh recessed, flush, or proud as desired.

Imagine the possibilities!

I ended up getting woven stainless steel and attaching it to the backside with bonded on studs. Then, on the front, I have 3/8" wide x .1 thick frames to highlight the opening. Once all painted, should look great!

peterh226

12-30-2021, 01:23 PM

I’m mounting the top (Gen 2 without the inner liner) and at the windshield base the frame is twisting when I tighten the middle bolt. This means the frame does not fit the glass. I thinking or adding fiberglass and maybe a steel strip along the bottom to make the more rigid. Anyone else have comments?? After driving a bit this summer the windshield adhesive even came unbonded even after my careful prep.

Blade

12-30-2021, 08:14 PM

peter, I don't know if this will help but here goes. I had my windshield installed today. First dry fit and the roof frame(Gen 2) at the bottom middle was way out, almost an inch. The glass wouldn't lay in the opening flat at all. It did before paint. I can't explain that. The glass guy spent a little over an hour sanding the windshield with 180grit and water/lube. once the glass fit the hole the bottom center had to be addressed. he put in the urethane and set the glass, we had the center bolt pretty loose, we then used a prop rod and short piece of 2x4 to push the roof frame out, that closed the gap. I have these pics for now. If you need more let me know.159418

peterh226

12-30-2021, 10:38 PM

Hi Blade. I had the windshield fit and glued ok, but the twist on the frame was too much and over time it peeled away. I’m gonna fill the gap with some filler and bond a piece of steel into the frame. I don’t want to rely on the glass to bond it into shape. Thanks for the comments. Good to see you are making progress as well!

Brastic

01-09-2022, 04:25 PM

Oh hey. I have #1033. If you were closer, I would drive up for a photo of both of the cars.

Blade

01-10-2022, 05:12 PM

I'm #1158. that would be great. San Jose is a bit far, but hey I love a good road trip....

peterh226

01-16-2022, 09:06 PM

Been working on several areas that have been problem spots.
After visiting Factory Five and talking about the build I got a set of the Ram Horns and new front pipes. Much better fit overall. The bolt kits provided with the Sanderson’s don’t fit. This version of the Ram Horn uses 2 short bolts and 4 long bolts. However, all of the bolt kits for Ram Horns have 4 & 4. So, I got to order a special set of bolts. Just weird that the bolts are wrong for their own header. I’ll replace with socket head cap screws and it will be good. 5/16-18 x 2.25 and 3 will work.
160312
Other projects was putting in the default bucket seats. I tried the Kirby (comfortable but not good for gettin in and out while touring). So next I tried PRP seats and they had promise, but were too narrow for my mature figure. So, while at factory five, we sat in the originals and ordered a set of those. I will be adding some kind of head rest as that is what got us on this path in the first place.
The other change is to try some quieter mufflers. The sound would be great on the track but a bit too much for a closed car on the street. I’m gonna set it up so I can easily switch back and forth if desired. I’m trying Dynomax Super Turbo #17731.

160320

Next was to get the front end setup corrected. Factory Five updated the rear lower mount so you and use the lower holes to get some ride height. So they sent me the update and i redid the suspension mounts and worked to get the alignment close.
160313 160314

Next, I have been working out how to make the Gen 2 top look good on the inside. This is ABS with some wood reinforcement and hidden fasteners to hold it in place. The dome light mount will be covered in black vinyl. I’ll cover all of the inside with Raptor before it’s done.
160323 160315

I found a spring that I can mount to the latch that will open the hood enough to grab it but not enough to distort the hood.
160316

The gap between the cowl and the top has been another frustration. When I tighten the middle screw down, it twists the frame and pulls it away from the windshield. I squished some Tiger Hair between the frame and the cowl and we’ll see how that works.
160317

Lots more to do before paint this summer, but at least making progress.

Tampa33Build

01-17-2022, 07:29 AM

peterh226

05-24-2022, 08:47 PM

One of the little things. Used the trunk bracket and a bent piece of metal for the front clip. The 3D printed a receptacle to glue into the hood for the end of the rod.
167232 167233 167234

peterh226

07-04-2022, 07:37 PM

Working on a lot of things to get closer to paint and reassembly. Facebook group is good for quick chats but not as a longer term record.
Got the body back off the chassis and on my home page stand..
168975
Next, I’ve been addressing lots of little tasks (reroute brake line for running board support clearance for example). Been sanding and filling in holes as well as adding some metal plates for attaching covers.
In order to finish up the wiring, I needed to complete some of the upholstery on the center console so went that way for a bit.
168976 168977 168978 168979
All of the wiring seems good now as well.
I switched from the mechanical speedo to electric sensor to the built in one on the side of the TREMEC.
Started it up for the first time in 8 or 9 months. I really like the Dynomax Turbo Mufflers. Have to see when I can go for a drive what they sound like, but up on jack stands in the garage, they seem like they will be a good way to cruise…
Now the bad news. My heater core failed. I had drained the water so I don’t know if some was locked in the core or if something else caused the failure. At least it happened now before I had finished the interior and painted body. So now i have another problem to solve.
168980

Never a dull moment in hot rod land!

peterh226

07-31-2022, 07:01 PM

Peter,

Interested in how much quieter the Dynomax Performance 1773 are vs. the FFR ones. I installed Hedman Hedders 17104 - Hedman Hot Tips Chrome Exhaust Tips and it helped some however still a little too loud for long trips.

Just started it up with the Dynomax and they are gonna be MUCH better for a cruiser. Haven’t gone for a drive yet, but I’m very happy so far. I’m young at heart, but still have neighbors!

peterh226

07-31-2022, 07:10 PM

One thing that is really cool with this project is that you get to learn about all of the subsystems as well. Been working on a all sorts of little things.
- switched to screw on electrical end for the magnum shooters for clearance and positive connections.
- got the a/c working and charged. Thanks FFR for the help!
- powder coated misc brackets (horn mounts, side panel/fender reinforcements.
- prepped and painted the insides of several panels with Rhino liner
- upholstered most of the interior panel and adapted to use hidden fasteners
170396
- designed, printed, and mounted the support for the front camera behind the grill
170399 170401 170398

e36m3

08-08-2022, 07:02 PM

Hi Peter,

What length shaft did you order for the Mighty Wiper?

Thanks,

Andy

peterh226

08-10-2022, 01:31 PM

Hi Peter,

What length shaft did you order for the Mighty Wiper?

Thanks,

Andy

Hi Andy

Here's what is on the order sheet:

2 MWT158 1.5" taper shaft Mighty Wiper with short arm and blade
2 XLong5 5 foot longer wire
1 XSetCam set cam for opposite park position
I'm very happy how they worked out even though I don't expect to use much.

peterh226

08-21-2022, 09:42 PM

Well, I’m learning some things not to do with painting…
- the paint container systems are great if you shake it up with all of the pieces.
- high build paint has a lot more stuff in it than you think. Shake and stir until you think you have it mixed and the start over!
- a paint stir stick will make a hole easily in the paint liner.

Here’s some images of the progression for the trunk lid.
This is with guidecoat only 171390
Here’s sanded down based on the guidecoat. 171391
Next, another coat of primer with guidecoat 171392
A bit of sanding 171393
More sanding 171394
Ready for another coat 171395
I have at least one coat on all of these and some have since been sanded and are ready for another coat
171396

I’m getting better at laying down this paint, but may get some help with the color and clear so I can assemble this winter. I was hoping to do it all myself, but may settle on getting it ready for final paint!