Door Pops (Door Solenoids to eliminate Outside Door Handles)

[JOP33]

Looking for just a bit of help on this one...Not using outside door handles with my build, so opting for Door Pops. I know I have come across some specific information regarding the ideal poundage for doing this and if I remember correctly, some part numbers. I believe that because of the limited space in the doors (especially with power windows) that trying to go small on the actuators or solenoids but strong enough to pop the door was critical. I have done a search but have not been able to come up with anything. Any information regarding this mod from someone that has done it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

[FF33rod]

Keeping on eye on this as I'm going to do the same thing. Haven't seen anything here on it yet though. All sorts of choices on the internet.....
Steve

[JimLev]

I bought 2 different ones. The black ones are rated about a 5 Lb pull which won't work for the doors, they were cheap so not a big loss.
The next ones I bought have a 35 Lb pull, plenty enough to open the doors. I hope to find some place to install them in the doors with power windows.

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[60's Kid]

Here is the install I did on the door solenoids with the power windows. I saw it somewhere here on the forum. It works well with the power windows.105316
I am needing ideas on a wire loom to go between door jam and door to bring the wires in to the door. anyone got pics?

Rick

[JimLev]

Looks like a good place to mount it, thanks. I think AJT33 did that too.
I bought 14ga silicon covered wire with many thin strands of wire that is very flexible from eBay.
I'm going to run is thru a rubber boot that has two 90º offsets. I'll get a link for the boot shortly.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eli-4301-70-011

[FF33rod]

What about something like this for the wire loom...
https://www.electric-life.com/product/94202-new-billet-wire-looms-designed-for-suicide-style-hinges-with-slip-on-collars/?fbclid=IwAR16jtE8MfTU0GPtQfttuy365-Q7zJHI7UlrIj0Wk5sVm8G-9PjYf5oeLmw

[JOP33]

Here is the install I did on the door solenoids with the power windows. I saw it somewhere here on the forum. It works well with the power windows.105316
I am needing ideas on a wire loom to go between door jam and door to bring the wires in to the door. anyone got pics?

Rick

The shop that is doing the fit-up and finish out on my build is using these instead of looms...

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/product_pages/door_jamb_wire_eliminators/door_jamb_wire_eliminators_page.jsp

[JOP33]

I reached out to Tony at FFR yesterday and he came back with this...

https://www.amazon.com/JDMSPEED-New-Door-Popper-Remotes/dp/B07KK8V436/ref=asc_df_B07KK8V436/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=330426419246

...85lbs seems like overkill to me :confused:, but I can not speak from any experience on this matter.

[AJT '33]

I ended up with the following setup after going back and forth:
- Autoloc 35 lb. pull kit with remote key opening and interior buttons bought from Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aul-311810/overview/ It actually ended being more than necessary and a 15lb pull would be fine however we have not tested it with the seals on in the final assembly so we feel it will be the right size.
- I added a remote push button from Summit as well just in case. This will be in a hidden location. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aul-89717/overview/
- I also ended up with this wire loom https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/eli-4301-70-011/overview/ as all the suicide door looms were too stiff and would not move and bend properly

With the help of CVOBill I ended up setting it up in a similar fashion which does not interfere with the power windows and leaves good space around it. My relays are mounted remotely in a central location using a relay box. I thought I had a better picture of the final setup, I will try and remember to take one tonight as we needed to modify the end that attaches to the bear claw latch.
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There may be some discussion on the Facebook page for the 33's as well.

[JimLev]

I reached out to Tony at FFR yesterday and he came back with this...

https://www.amazon.com/JDMSPEED-New-Door-Popper-Remotes/dp/B07KK8V436/ref=asc_df_B07KK8V436/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=330426419246

...85lbs seems like overkill to me :confused:, but I can not speak from any experience on this matter.

Those bigger poppers in my pic above came with this kit that I got from eBay. I was wrong about the pull, it's 60lbs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/281430015894?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay .com%252Frover%252F0%252Fe11051.m43.l1123%252F7%25 3Feuid%253D2941b1b9a83a4239b2ef8a1139406590%2526bu %253D43187840643%2526loc%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%2 5252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252F281430 015894%2526sojTags%253Dbu%253Dbu%2526srcrot%253De1 1051.m43.l1123%2526rvr_id%253D0%2526rvr_ts%253D022 6a53b16a0ab19e5174240ffb38988&ul_noapp=true

What I can tell you about these remotes is that you have to program the fobs so the control box will recognize them.
I couldn't get either fob to work. Chassis Tech sent me a new control box with 2 fobs. I could only get one to program and work.
For the price of the poppers and other hardware I'm satisfied, I have an alarm system that has outputs for poppers that I will use. The poppers and door push hardware works great.
Reading the reviews on these Chinese made remotes and hoping to get one that the remotes actually work is a crap shoot.
Good luck.

[duff33]

I have been considering using door pops also so I appriciate the info. I used the rubber boots from Summit105350 the fiberglass is thicker on the body than the groove on the boot. I had to push the entire end through the hole that I drilled other wise it just pops out. Should have counter bored for the flange. One of those things I have to get back too.

[HVACMAN]

I bought these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kcw-10633

[JimLev]

I'm going to have to rethink my door wiring, those Keep It Clean contacts look nice. Makes it real easy if you need to remove the door.

[AJT '33]

I have been considering using door pops also so I appreciate the info. I used the rubber boots from Summit105350 the fiberglass is thicker on the body than the groove on the boot. I had to push the entire end through the hole that I drilled otherwise it just pops out. Should have counter bored for the flange. One of those things I have to get back too.

I have round copper trim rings that I will fabricate and install that are the same thickness of the gap on the rubber looms. They will hold better and will give it a nice look on the black body once painted. Two small retainer screws in my case will do the trick I believe. You could do the same and paint them white like the car and if necessary split them into two even pieces then paint them up.

[AJT '33]

I'm going to have to rethink my door wiring, those Keep It Clean contacts look nice. Makes it real easy if you need to remove the door.

I have them for my hard top, there will be a specific gap that you will need to maintain to ensure good contact (I can take pics of mine as they aren't installed yet) and making the slot in the door will be tricky as the door connection plate is there, you will more than likely push it down further and need to build it out on the back of the door (use the pins on the door side) and keep the other side with the flat plates to keep the more visible side clean. The only thing I don't know is if the pins, that will be used for the door pops, have enough contact surface as they need a 10Ga wire to go to the ground and power unless you put the relay in the door and only run a ground back. Something to check before making the change to the onctacted version. I kept it simple in my case even though I used it for my hard tops wipers and interior lights.

[JimLev]

Good info AJT.
OK, I drank the cool-aid, just ordered the 6 terminal pins ones for both doors.
According to the info each pin can handle a 30 amp surge and a constant 20 amps.
The bigger door poppers I have only draw 10 amps, that's only for 1 sec required to actuate it so 14ga wire is fine.
I'm not going to have a removable roof so the wiper and interior lights will probably be hard wired.

[duff33]

What a great idea to use a trim ring around the boot, Thanks !!!

[AJT '33]

Good info AJT.
OK, I drank the cool-aid, just ordered the 6 terminal pins ones for both doors.
According to the info each pin can handle a 30 amp surge and a constant 20 amps.
The bigger door poppers I have only draw 10 amps, that's only for 1 sec required to actuate it so 14ga wire is fine.
I'm not going to have a removable roof so the wiper and interior lights will probably be hard wired.

Make sure you get the proper connector for the pin side the proper butt connector, they fit but can slip off so my son made sure they fit right, removed the casing added a tab of solder and shrink tube to protect the connection.
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[60's Kid]

i have the solenoids (to release the latch) installed and programed and working fine. I am looking for ideas on mounting the spring loaded poppers (that came with my solenoid kit) to push the door open. Any ideas or pics appreciated.

Rick