Factory Fifty - MK4 Coyote/T56 Build by Rotopod

[Rotopod]

Like most of you - I have been wanting to build a cobra for years. There is just something about the design that keeps it at the top of my list of most alluring cars.
I don’t know if it’s the shape, or the speed, or the sound, or the combination of it all, but it has always been my favorite.
I turned 50 this year and decided it was time to get started.

My background is in control systems, robotics, and magnetic communications. This will be my first automotive project, and I am looking forward to working on the car with my kids.
I was originally intending to install a 427 (based on the 351 Windsor), but after discussing engine options with friends, family and several FFR engineers at SEMA, I was decided to switch to the Coyote. Truthfully, I don’t think there’s an engine configuration that I wouldn’t enjoy. One of the challenges of this build is that there are so many choices that aren’t necessarily right or wrong – but rather just different -- that I could contemplate the design and options for years. With that in mind, here are my high-level build plans and initial add-ons from my order.

High Level Build

MK4 Complete Kit
Independent Rear Suspension
Coyote 5.0 Liter Gen 2 Engine
Tremec 6-Speed Magnum T56 Transmission
17” FFR Halibrand Wheels
Wilwood Brakes (Red)
Hydraulic Clutch

FFR Upgrades:

Powder Coating
Body Cut-Outs
Leather Seats
Power Steering
IRS
GPS Gauge Set
Stainless Bumper
Wind Wings
Sun Visors
Windshield Wipers
Swaybar (Front and Rear)
Brake Duct Mesh
Vinyl Dash with GloveBox
Chrome Roll Bar DS/PS with FFR Grommets
Center Dash Supports
Koni Double Adjustable Shocks
Oil Cooler
Adj Seat Track
IRS Center Section and Spindles
Floor Mats



Additional Upgrades (it feels never-ending):

3/8” Stainless Steel Fuel Lines
3/16” Stainless Steel Brake Lines
AreoMotive Cannister Fuel Filter (5 micron)
AreoMotive Adj Fuel Regulator
Breeze 255 lph In-Tank Fuel Pump
Breeze -6AN Flex Line and Adapters
Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Mounts
Breeze Radiator Fan Shroud
Breeze Hi-Flow Vent and -6AN Return
Breeze Radiator Cowl Cover
Breeze Engine Bay Battery Box
Russ Thompson Trunk Box Kit
Russ Thompson Turn Signal Indicator
Replica Parts Steering Column Bezel
Replica Parts Harness Bezels
Replica Parts Dash Support Bracket
Nitto NT555 G2 Tires (245/45-17 315/30-17)
Relocate Gas Tank Strap Mount Location
Wilwood Rear Brake Bypass Switch


Possible Upgrades:

Heater
Heated Seats
Electric Parking Brake
TBD…


My wife made some creative modifications to the Factory Five artwork for my 50th B-Day.
I guess there is no going back now :)
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I didn't want to cut into this cool cake - but it is a cake after all...
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[Straversi]

Welcome. You’ve done your research and you obviously have the support and blessings of your spouse. You are going to have a blast. Keep us in the loop and reach out for help anytime.
-Steve

[edwardb]

Nice looking build plan and best wishes making it happen! Support on the home front is a big deal, so congrats on that as well. Three comments about your build plan: (1) An oil cooler is not needed for the Coyote unless you're building a track machine then everything changes. The Coyote runs very cool with the standard kit supplied radiator. Plus the extra plumbing is just another place for trouble. If you want to see an oil cooling in the body opening, go for it. But consider having it just be a dummy, and not actually connected. (2) Looks like you've done your homework so expect you know it will be challenging to have the glove box option plus a heater. There are possible workarounds, but out of the box don't play together very nicely. (3) Not sure what you mean by a "Wilwood Rear Brake Bypass Switch." A proportioning valve? If so, just added plumbing not really needed with the standard Wilwood pedal box and balance bar setup.

[Boydster]

...Not sure what you mean by a "Wilwood Rear Brake Bypass Switch." A proportioning valve? If so, just added plumbing not really needed with the standard Wilwood pedal box and balance bar setup.

Sounds like he wants to do tire-destroying burnouts, like turn off the rears, stand on the fronts and let er eat...

[Paul2STL]

Looks like you have a very nice build plan. Very close to how mine came out. Couple of suggestions first get a hid of leather off ebay and do the dash, trans cover. Leather will show the quality of build you have much better then the vinyl. Also look at the Breeze Coyote fuel system set up with filter and regulator that would save you a few dollars with a slick OEM set up. Also take a look at doing the drop trunk, it frees up a lot of storage space in the trunk.

[edwardb]

Sounds like he wants to do tire-destroying burnouts, like turn off the rears, stand on the fronts and let er eat...

Like what you can also do with a line lock. Got it.

[Dwmaurer86]

Sounds like a great build plan

[Rotopod]

Thank you for the feedback. I have been very impressed by the support and thoughtfulness of this group.

Edwardb:
I love the look of the oil cooler in the front. I have read that it really isn't necessary - but I am going to have a hard time leaving it non-functional. On the other-hand, I don't want to add failure points in my oil line. I will have to see how confident I am feeling when I get to that point in the build.

I may scrap the glove box in exchange for the heater. Or maybe add a low-profile glove box and try to squeeze it all in...

Boydster:
You are correct :) Not sure how much use the brake valve will get, but I like the option :)
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I plan to mount it in the DS foot box so I can bypass it in the future if it causes too much trouble. The cut-off valve is like a line lock except it allows the brake line pressure to bleed back into the MC to prevent the rear wheel lines from holding any pressure.

Paul2STL:
Great advice.
I ordered both the prefabricated dash with glove-box, as well as a blank dash panel. I am not fully committed to the default gauge layout of the prefabricated panel, so I am strongly considering making a custom (race) layout.
I will definitely look into the leather option.

Thank you!

[Rotopod]

I swear the FFR truck is one of the longest trucks out there!
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It took forever to get this kit!! Yes, that's my car... the last one off the truck. I think the transport went from MA to Canada, and the Mexico boarder before making it out to Utah.
No worries, I was working to get my garage ready for this project.

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The entire neighborhood came out to help unload the cargo (I have great neighbors!).

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BTW - I had started this thread on the other forum, but have decided to move it over here.

[wareaglescott]

Welcome aboard. Looks like a great build plan. Looking forward to following along. Dont have much to add but do have one question. What is magnetic communication?

[Rotopod]

haha - Magnetic communication has similar (short range) applications to Bluetooth.

But instead of radiating energy into space...
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the energy is contained in a modulating field.
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This keeps the communications link secure. Good for military and medical applications - or anywhere you have a lot of wireless systems close together. It also works underwater.

[Rotopod]

After drilling all of the aluminum panels,

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I decided to removed the eBrake mounting bracket.

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It was extending into the passenger area about 1/2".

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Rather than grind down the excess material, or cut and re-weld, I decided to remove it and go with an electric parking brake.
Also, I have heard that the T56 Magnum transmission is tight against the eBrake inside the transmission tunnel.

Really I just wanted an excuse to put some actuators in the car.

I plan to add some intelligence to the electric brake, like hill assist... not sure yet.
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I minored in robotics so I guess I am just looking for a good excuse to do something robot-ish:)

[Rotopod]

My son and I installed the differential. It is definitely heavy!

I had heard a lot of horror stories on getting this mounted - so I may have over prepared.

I used a transmission jack covered with a moving blanket to protect the finish and help keep the differential from shifting.

I lifted it with the shaft pointing straight up.

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I went up as high as I could get it and then rotated the shaft forward as my son lifted the jack up until the holes were lined up.

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I used some smaller bolts to get it aligned and held in place, and then replaced each temporary bolt with the final bolts one by one.

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[Rotopod]

When I went to mount the driveshaft adapter, I noticed that it does not seem to fit properly with the differential.

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The diameter of the gold adapter plate is too big to fit inside of the flange of the differential input shaft.
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The manual states:
"**There are two different Driveshaft adapters, one for center sections from automatic cars which is coated clear zinc.
The Driveshaft adapter for center sections from manual cars is coated yellow zinc."

Strangely the Silver/Clear coated adapter plate fits, but the Gold/Yellow does not fit.

I guess it might be possible that one of the flanges was finished in the wrong color. But not both...
What am I missing?

I cant see any reason not to use the Silver Adapter.