2014 Coyote Heater/Defrost Coolant Bypass Switch

[4.6 litre]

Guys,

I have read a number of posts on this subject and still don’t fully comprehend the solution. I have a 2014 Coyote engine and I am installing a FFR Heater/Defrost, and a FFR Wiper.

Q1) Do I need an electronic heater bypass switch. If so, which one would you recommend?

Q2) Can the heater and bypass switch controls be consolidated to simplify operation of the heater?

Q3) Is there an overheating problem on start-up with the heater either on or off?

Q4) Where could the electronic bypass switch be installed so it won’t interfere with installing the wiper to the left of the heater, looking from the engine compartment?

Q5) Will I still need to install the coolant bypass hose and reducer between 2014 coyote engine coolant inlet and outlet ports, allowing coolant flow between the cylinders?

Thanks for your comments in advance,

Damien, aka 4.6 litre

[Al_C]

Here's a partial answer.

1. I do not believe so. I followed Ducky2009's lead and installed an autozone part. I'd have to dig around for the part number, but will find it eventually. David probably has it at his fingertips. Here's a photo of the heater, bypass valve and wiper:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104947&d=1554242566

2. The heater has a pull/turn knob. The pull part is a cable that connects to the bypass, so yes, it works as you described.

3. I have no idea about overheating. Mine has not overheated yet, but I'm only go-karting.

4. See photo above.

5. I don't have any reducers (that I recall) installed. Again, I followed David's lead on this one.

It was intimidating to plumb this thing initially, but now that I put it together it makes sense!

[edwardb]

This situation isn't that complicated. The Coyote has the heater hose connections on the heads, with the outlet (to the heater) on the right side, and the inlet (from the heater) on the left side. The design requires coolant to flow between the two sides at all times. So the heater control valve must be a full bypass design, meaning when closed (e.g. coolant not routed to the heater core) the coolant must still flow through the valve. I'm not familiar with with Autozone piece described above, but a quick Google and Amazon search shows multiple options for this style valve. Can be either electronic (e.g. motor driven with a control circuit) or manual cable actuated. I am familiar with the Thermotion brand electric valve and controller Factory Five provides as part of the Gen 3 Coupe A/C-Heat option. But probably more complicated than necessary for some builds, especially if you're only doing heat and not A/C.

There shouldn't be a problem locating a valve to not interfere with the wipers. Just route the hoses to an available space. And also not any reason to be concerned about a bypass hose or restrictor if you're installing a heater. That's only applies if no heater. Also shouldn't be any issues with overheating as long as coolant is flowing between the two sides at all times.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

No point in not having a bypass. Keeps hot water out of the heater core in the summer. Manual or electric your choice. I run an electric one & the rheostat controls water flow for temperature control. I use two controls on the dash. 3 speed & off fan & the temperature control.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104948&d=1554245551

Two knobs on the right side are Fan & Temperature. Bezels are Bronco with the labels engraved.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104963&d=1554249214

Bypass valve

[Fixit]

Here's what I came up with on #9365, which is running wipers. Link to part 1 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Initial-Body-Fitment&p=351809&viewfull=1#post351809) (scroll down for pt2)
I used the FFR supplied push/pull 3-speed switch. Old Air Products offers 2 styles of bypass valve, so depending upon your routing or design you can have it pull to open, or push to open... mine is pull to open

[4.6 litre]

Guys,

Thanks a lot for so many fast and great responses. As always I'm very impressed by the expertise's of the Forum members. You've helped a lot.

Damien, aka 4.6 litre

[4.6 litre]

Al_C,

In your layout is there any room left to install a small glove compartment?

Damien

[Fixit]

Here was my solution to a glovebox when running a heater & wipers (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365-Initial-Body-Fitment&p=344110&viewfull=1#post344110)... again, scroll down for pt.2

[Dave Howard]

I must be pretty lucky. I didn't install a heater bypass valve. I used the control valve and cable supplied in the kit. Installed it on the passenger side heater hose, then connected the drivers side heater hose directly to the heater core. When the control valve is closed, the heater blows no warm air. Lots of miles under all types of driving conditions and the Coyote is doing fine.

[ckrueger]

No point in not having a bypass. Keeps hot water out of the heater core in the summer. Manual or electric your choice. I run an electric one & the rheostat controls water flow for temperature control. I use two controls on the dash. 3 speed & off fan & the temperature control.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104948&d=1554245551

Two knobs on the right side are Fan & Temperature. Bezels are Bronco with the labels engraved.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104963&d=1554249214

Bypass valve

Same one I used on my Coyote. worked great!

[4.6 litre]

Guys,

Not to gum-up the works but I talked to Vintage Air this morning. They suggested using their bypass fitting found at https://www.vintageair.com/search-results/?sqry=344470

The tech rep said this will solve the problem. Vintage Air will email me the Ford Cooling drawing with the fitting superimposed on it. If you’re interested I’ll post it? If you don't think this can solve the problem let me know?

[Ducky2009]

I ended up making an L shaped bracket and installed it and the 4-way valve on the firewall. 4-way valve P/N 74809 can be found at most auto parts stores.

105209 105210

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Same one I used on my Coyote. worked great!

Between the by-pass valve & the MOROSO tank have never had a overheat problem even at 105*F in the summer in traffic. Think most issues are incorrect coolant flow & trapped air in the system. As an added extra the Everson one piece front end sheet metal & the Breeze upper trim piece 100% of the air cumming into the front opening goes through the radiator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105223&d=1554744288

Arrow is old coolant tank which did not work. Replaced with the MOROSO unit

[Al_C]

Al_C,

In your layout is there any room left to install a small glove compartment?

Damien

Sorry, Damien, just saw this now (I'm only 6 days late...) Here's a quick photo. Short answer - nope. It's pretty tight in there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105438&d=1554911279

[Escapade741]

Guys,

Not to gum-up the works but I talked to Vintage Air this morning. They suggested using their bypass fitting found at https://www.vintageair.com/search-results/?sqry=344470

The tech rep said this will solve the problem. Vintage Air will email me the Ford Cooling drawing with the fitting superimposed on it. If you’re interested I’ll post it? If you don't think this can solve the problem let me know?

Hi, Ive got a 2017 Gen 2 Coyote with vintageair, interested in the marked up circuit sketch for installing the vintageair Coyote "H" pipe bypass circuit, It will be installed prior to heater shut off, I'm right hand drive so my plumping will be slightly different,cheers mike

[Bob Cowan]

I'm with you. The valve in my heater line is simply an On/Off valve. Although I have not driven it in real summer heat yet, It has been pretty nice this pat week. Even in city traffic, it stays cool.

I also added this kit during assembly. http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_30_42&products_id=555 It connects the back of the heads with a hose, and helps keep #8 cool. Is this the reason mine runs cool with the heater off? IDK, maybe. Just another data point.

106471

106472

[lgordon]

My solution to having a heater/defroster, windshield wiper and glove box was similar to others but I suspect unique in a few details. I built a pop out box to move the heater core into the engine compartment so there is easily room enough for a standard glove box. I chose to use an electronically controlled heater bypass valve. I also had one of the heater tubes shortened by a radiator shop to help keep it all compact and clear the engine.