Trackable "Requirements"

[BrewCityCobra]

Continuing to chug along on the planning phases (probably more accurately deemed the monetary accumulation phase) and wanted to see if anybody had an input on "needs" for a MKIV that will be splitting time between the street and track. Basically anything that would be a real bear to install after the fact or make tracking potentially difficult to partake in. My initial list build list includes:

1) Passenger and Driver FF roll bars (no switching to Breeze)
2) Manual brakes (will be keeping the kit-supplied brakes at first with anticipation of swapping them out for wilwoods down the road sometime)
3) likely go with a 351W based 427 engine kit from Fortes with TKO 500/600.
4) although I'd like to go IRS, likely stick with a straight axle rear end.

Any further suggestions? Things to avoid?

Actually bought a 944 Porsche to track this summer to try to gain some skills (I'm a rookie in all senses of the word) while the cobra is being built so I'm not a complete rooking once this thing is complete.

Appreciate the input.

[Mike N]

When you say track, what sort of track use to you plan on? Auto cross, Open track days, Time Trials? There could be different safety requirements depending on what you want to do such as fuel cell, driveshaft safety hoop, roll cage, fire suppression system etc. Any of those could be installed later but would be a lot easier to incorporate during the build. Besides what you might be required to have to run you also need to consider what would make sense to have such as a seat that is going to provide good support, a good cooling system, a good oiling system, oil pan etc. If you are somewhat serious about tracking the car starting with a spec racer and making it streetable might be a lot easier than going in the opposite direction.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...If you are somewhat serious about tracking the car starting with a spec racer and making it streetable might be a lot easier than going in the opposite direction.

Mike beat me to it. If I were to do mine over again I'd begin with a Challenge Car.
Jeff

[Ducky2009]

Again, depending on the track requirements....
You'll probably need a STEEL bellhousing. Quicktime brand is popular. They sell two versions, steel and race-approved steel. IMO, steel is the only way to go, even if you're not racing. I once blew a clutch and it cut through the aluminum bellhousing enough to have it break into two parts (thus breaking the trans case too). You may need a master (power) cutoff switch and in some racing, you need a fuel cutoff (accessible from the outside of the car).

[NAZ]

Track = Sanctioning Body. Read the rule book, don't rely on casual input from us -- go to the source. And be advised that the rules are significantly different between sanctioning organizations so it may not be realistic to try and meet different rules as some requirements are mutually exclusive.

[BrewCityCobra]

When you say track, what sort of track use to you plan on? Auto cross, Open track days, Time Trials? There could be different safety requirements depending on what you want to do such as fuel cell, driveshaft safety hoop, roll cage, fire suppression system etc. Any of those could be installed later but would be a lot easier to incorporate during the build. Besides what you might be required to have to run you also need to consider what would make sense to have such as a seat that is going to provide good support, a good cooling system, a good oiling system, oil pan etc. If you are somewhat serious about tracking the car starting with a spec racer and making it streetable might be a lot easier than going in the opposite direction.

The goal is to have the car be used primarily on the street but that would be expected to put on a good show a few times during open track / autocross events. I don't think I would ever want to have this particular car go as far as being a spec racer (I'd probably commandeer the 944 for that). I'm intrigued by time trials but am guessing that would be a ways down the road before I'd start thinking about that.

Your other points are exactly what I was looking for (basically things somebody who has never been on a track wouldn't have thought off). Seat, cooling, oil, etc. Basically if there are particular standard FF elements that come with the kit but are particularly vulnerable to track conditions, I'll want to replace those.

[mike223]

Track = Sanctioning Body. Read the rule book, don't rely on casual input from us -- go to the source. And be advised that the rules are significantly different between sanctioning organizations so it may not be realistic to try and meet different rules as some requirements are mutually exclusive.



The goal is to have the car be used primarily on the street but that would be expected to put on a good show a few times during open track / autocross events. I don't think I would ever want to have this particular car go as far as being a spec racer (I'd probably commandeer the 944 for that). I'm intrigued by time trials but am guessing that would be a ways down the road before I'd start thinking about that.


First let me note that all rulebooks are fluid (some less than others).

Additionally: in these small roadsters, it (very) quickly becomes a question of how close a bar can be to your head (6 point roll bar or roll cage) before it's no longer safe to drive without a helmet (and no longer a "safe" street car).


It depends on what you want to do...

[Avalanche325]

I autocross, so here is my advice on that.

I would do the Wilwood brakes NOW. Cars can go too fast. They can't stop too fast. Even more important for an open track car.
Power steering. Hydraulic, not electric.
A quick ratio steering rack.
As mentioned, steel bellhousing. I have a quicktime.
Drive shaft loop. Look at Metco.
Road race oil pan. You may want to consider an accumulator.
Make sure you have a rev limiter.
I installed an oil pressure light. You have zero time to look at your gauges at autocross. I tee-d it in with my gauge sensor.
GOOD high performance tires. If you are running 17s, Nitto NT05s are about the best all around tires. NT01s are even stickier if you can afford a set every 5-6K miles.

[Jim1855]

Spec Racer / Challenge Car what ever you wish to call it. More crash protection and stiffer. This is what I'm building so I'm a bit partial. Basic plan is a streetable track car.

Mike223 has a solid point on heads too close to bars. I have the Kirkey high back road race seats which should help. Will also have lots of padding on the closer bars. Doesn't mean I won't bang my head on the bars I've added getting in & out.

I'm following SCCA and NASA safety rules as much as possible. Not planning to compete, just play, so the performance equalizing rules are left in the books.

Jim

[Bob Cowan]

I raced my FFR in TTU for nearly a decade. It started out as a fun street car, and gradually morphed into a bit more. I won 6 regional championships with it.

Some things are easy to change later - like springs. But some things are just more cost effective to do it now- like brakes. And some things you NEED before driving on the track for the very first time - like a high end oiling system. Do it right the first time, and you'll save time, money, hassle, and track time.

Do pay attention to a rule book. If you want to eventually compete, you kinda want to take a look at where you can be competitive, and where you can have the most fun. Start by building the car to those specs from the beginning, and you will be way ahead as a builder and as a driver.

Plan to pay for individual one-on-one professional instruction. Nothing will shave off seconds like instruction and seat time.

[Avalanche325]

One other thing for the track - arm restraints.
I know someone that rolled their Cobra on the track. No restraints = three years of physical therapy on his left arm.

[BrewCityCobra]

I autocross, so here is my advice on that.

I would do the Wilwood brakes NOW. Cars can go too fast. They can't stop too fast. Even more important for an open track car.
Power steering. Hydraulic, not electric.
A quick ratio steering rack.
As mentioned, steel bellhousing. I have a quicktime.
Drive shaft loop. Look at Metco.
Road race oil pan. You may want to consider an accumulator.
Make sure you have a rev limiter.
I installed an oil pressure light. You have zero time to look at your gauges at autocross. I tee-d it in with my gauge sensor.
GOOD high performance tires. If you are running 17s, Nitto NT05s are about the best all around tires. NT01s are even stickier if you can afford a set every 5-6K miles.


Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. I'll keep those in mind.

[FFRSpec72]

I road race quite a bit in different leagues and I can say that the 13" front cobra brake rotors and calipers are very good, no need for anything more. I have been hit a few times and I can say that the spec racer frame is well built. I have added anti intrution panels on drivers side and on floor (as stuff comes up through the floor). Make sure you have a good center mirror. Most of all take your time to get used to the car, these cars don't like trial braking if you do you will spin.