Cliff's 33 Hot Rod Build in Virginia

[colsen23153]

Yesterday FFR received my check so I am the proud owner of a 33 Hot Rod.

Order date 1/23/2019 Date required 3/23/2019. I ordered the complete kit with the optional top and bike fenders.
Stewart Transport is picking it up 3/23/2019 and they said they would call before then to give me an estimate delivery date.
I ordered a Chevy 383 Fuel Injected 430HP with the 700R4 transmission on 1/24/2019 from BluePrint engines. It has been back ordered until late March early April. That seams like a long time but since the kit isn't due by then it's OK with me.
I went to build school 2/15/2019 2/17/2019.

My plan with the 33 is to start out as a roadster with bike fenders. Then get it titled, registered and plates. I'll drive it for a while before putting the hard top on with the electric windows. Do some body work before putting full fenders on and painting it tuxedo black with red pearl.

While waiting for the delivery I have collected some parts I'll need. So far I have a rebuilt 8.8" solid rear with 3.55 gears and disk brakes, e-brake handle with NOS cables, Headers recommended by FFR to fit the SB and tires. I ordered wheels and tires from Summit. American Racing VN405 Custom Torq-Thrust II Polished Wheels 18 X 8 front and 18 X 11 rear. The tires are BFGoodrich g-Force Rival S 1.5 Tires 245/40-18 front 315/30-18 rear. And assorted tools and hardware that I will need for the build.

This is what my build area looks like now.

103744
I can't wait to get started.

Cliff

[scottiec]

Congrats Cliff! Where in VA are you? If you are close, happy to check things out and vice versa

[FF33rod]

Congratulations Cliff, you're going to have a ton of fun! I received my kit last November and am happy as heck. I picked those same tires as well, they look great and hopefully I'll enjoy riding on them later this year. Remember, the forum is one of your best resources. I look forward to your build.

Steve

[JimLev]

Congrats, you'll have fun, nice engine too.
The link didn't work.

[HVACMAN]

Congratulations Cliff and welcome to the madness. This journey is one of the most satisfying things I've ever done. I hope yours is as enjoyable.

[JOP33]

Yesterday FFR received my check so I am the proud owner of a 33 Hot Rod.

Order date 1/23/2019 Date required 3/23/2019. I ordered the complete kit with the optional top and bike fenders.
Stewart Transport is picking it up 3/23/2019 and they said they would call before then to give me an estimate delivery date.
I ordered a Chevy 383 Fuel Injected 430HP with the 700R4 transmission on 1/24/2019 from BluePrint engines. It has been back ordered until late March early April. That seams like a long time but since the kit isn't due by then it's OK with me.
I went to build school 2/15/2019 2/17/2019.

I am just over 70, retired with a lot of time on my hands. I have always been in to cars since before I could drive. My first hot rod was a '49 Ford with a Hemi. Since then I have put a Corvette 327 350HP in a '63 Chevrolet SS convertible. I have had a Z28, '69 Super Bee 383 Ram Air and now on my second C6 and many others in between.

My plan with the 33 is to start out as a roadster with bike fenders. Then get it titled, registered and plates. I'll drive it for a while before putting the hard top on with the electric windows. Do some body work before putting full fenders on and painting it tuxedo black.

While waiting for the delivery I have collected some parts I'll need. So far I have a rebuilt 8.8" solid rear with 3.55 gears and disk brakes, e-brake handle with NOS cables, Headers recommended by FFR to fit the SB and tires. I ordered wheels and tires from Summit. American Racing VN405 Custom Torq-Thrust II Polished Wheels 18 X 8 front and 18 X 11 rear. The tires are BFGoodrich g-Force Rival S 1.5 Tires 245/40-18 front 315/30-18 rear. And assorted tools and hardware that I will need for the build.

This is what my build area looks like now.

103744
I can't wait to get started.

Cliff

That's a good start already...Congratulations Cliff!

[erlihemi]

Congrats Cliff. One of my Richmond VA. memories is watching Bill Reed and Ronnie Sox make a run down the 1/4 mile there. I made a few down at Dinwiddie myself before it got bigger. Spent some time at the "big gray boat factory" in Newport News and very long ago at Fort Belvoir too. Good luck with the build. Looks like you'll have it done by August!

[sturigus83]

Cliff did you post your build on another site I would like to read it and see what you did . I enjoy reading to see what each and every person does because everyone is different. Please post your site

[colsen23153]

Cliff did you post your build on another site I would like to read it and see what you did . I enjoy reading to see what each and every person does because everyone is different. Please post your site

This IS my build thread. Only here.
One thing I have learned is to have patience. Today I got a call from BluePrint Engines saying my engine and trans are being shipped today. I ordered it 1/24/19. My 33 is due to ship this Saturday. It was ordered 1/23/19. It would be nice if it got loaded last and I am the first stop. I ordered my rims and tires a while ago and received the tires and the front rims. I also got a email that my rear rims have shipped and are due Friday. I have to pick up some more tools and jacks tomorrow.

So it looks that after waiting about two months I might finally get to start my build. I have been reading just about all the build threads on the forum, not just the 33 but all the others. There is a wealth of information out there. I hope that soon I will be able to tell you all about the fun I'm having. :)
Cliff

[CVOBill]

Congrats on the your new build. Looks like its all coming together.

[colsen23153]

Today was a big learning day to say the least!

My completion date was last Saturday. The day passes and I didn't hear from FFR or Stewart. I was a reck all week end not knowing where my car was. This morning I contacted FFR and found out that the completion date and shipping date are two different dates. Stewart needs to notify FFR when they can come to pick up the car. That's the shipping date. So I contacted Stewart to find out anything and I have not gotten a reply as of yet.

I got a phone call from Fedex confirming the delivery of my motor and trans tomorrow. What I found out from them is it's a lift gate delivery and the driver does not have permission to back down a driveway. So other then having them drop it off in the road in front of my house I had to make arrangements to have it shipped someplace else that had a forklift. That was an additional $150 to change the delivery address. Now I need to borrow a truck to get it from there to here.

And the beat goes on.

Needless to say, I'll be in a much better mood after I finally get everything in my garage and I open the assembly manual to page 1.

[OnlyAndy]

I had same issues you are having now. But they are really quite normal. Stewart was a bit slow at giving answers but not toooo bad. They did pick up my 33' about 2 weeks after it was ready at F5. Then about,,, maybe a bit over a week out here to SoCal. Driver, Scott was outstanding and helped me every step of the way. I worried for no reason. On my engine delivery, had same comments from carrier ( not fedex ). Was tail gate, street only BUT I backed my F150 up to his tail gate and slid the whole unit into my truck without too much hassel. Unloaded it in rear garage with engine hoist.

[HVACMAN]

I know it's frustrating. My second stage was 4 weeks between completion and delivery. As for the engine and transmission, I met the truck driver at a local parking lot about two blocks from the house. He lowered the lift gate even with the tail gate of my truck and we slid it from one to the other.

Good luck. You will be up to your ears in parts before you know it.

[erlihemi]

I often have my FedEx and UPS Freight "held at terminal" and pick it up at my convenience (like driving home from work) unless its bigger than I can get in the pickup. Other freight I also prefer to pick up at terminal like NEMF and YRC. I do have to say Stewart is excellent with delivery. I unloaded mine in a snowstorm with a skid steer!! Driver was awesome as he didn't have the truck with the cool offloading crane or the dolly set up.

[colsen23153]

I received a reply from Todd at Stewart and he said he had to work out his schedule but will pick up the car @ FFR in a "few" weeks. Then schedule a delivery date.

On the motor, If I had more time to work things out I could have had him unload to a trailer then I could use the engine hoist to get it in the garage. I don't have a truck anymore. But I got it worked out and it will be delivered @ my sons work. $150 re routing fee though. I'll have it tomorrow night. One down many to go.

After I found my emails, I found that all this info was in them. That was a few months ago. I guess I'm getting forgetful.

Cliff

[colsen23153]

Well it took a few extra days to get the motor but I finally have it in my garage!
Tomorrow I'll look through some of the boxes that came with it to see what I all have.

Some day I will have to figure out how to attach pictures :) Edit: These pictures were taken with my iPhone. The rest with a Kodak camera. No matter what I do to the iPhone pictures they all rotate .

[AJT '33]

For the pictures, rotate them in your folder on your computer then the ones you rotated simply rename it and add an extra letter or number (mine are date and time stamped so i just change the 100th of a second by one number), this way the blog won't reject it. Not sure why it rejects it when you rotate it, must be a windows thing. ;)

[colsen23153]

It Has been a while since I last posted. I was having my kit delivered by Stewart and when I asked them when, they said in a couple of weeks or days. Well this is the day that everybody waits for, 106772 April 30th, over a month after it was ready to ship.

This is what my garage looked like before 106773 and after 106774. I started inventory but the urge was so great I had to put something onto something. So I started on page one this last Monday and it wound up looking like this 106775 106776.

I had the same problems that others have had starting out on a new build from a company that is new to you, Mainly that they might say " attach this to that" and not give you the description of the hardware to use. I found out that the pictures in the manual can be miss leading. The bolt that are on the front A arms has changed. I spent hours looking for the type of bolt used in the pictures and even emailed FFR tech for help only to find out they changed the part.

I have not stopped my inventory. I take a break from assembly and do my due diligence. As you might have noticed, there are no springs on the front shocks. Part of the items that are on back order. I will have the rear installed tomorrow and then work on running the brake lines. I can't wait to install the engine and transmission BUT the motor mounts and transmission mounting plate are on back order! Oh, did I fail to mention that the steering wheel is also on that list.

So when you calculate the time it should take you to complete the build you have to figure in all of the time waiting for parts or paint to dry, or for some one else to do something for you (delivery).

Updates when I get a chance.
Cliff

[peterh226]

I’ve got similar parts on backorder so I’m focusing on the body. Instructions for the Gen2 are a work in progress so ask questions here and call factory five. They’ve been great when I call. The new body also has new instructions especially for the doors. Read the instructions closely as a word (like insert spacer) is easy to miss if only looking at the pictures.
Have fun!

[colsen23153]

Another week has passed by and I have made some great progress. I finished up the front end. Installed the steering column , pedal box and installed the electric power steering and all the linkage. The rear was just installed today with the help of two of my grandsons and son. Because of the powder coating, I had to spread all of the mounting places. It actually went in without a problem. As I say that, I did have a problem putting the upper link bracket on the axle. I could not get it completely on. I know in build school they said it might be. Has anyone else had this same problem and if so how did you get it to seat completely?

I'm currently working on installing the brake lines. I don't know how to get a 60" line bent the way it has to be without cutting it and putting in a union joint. The mounts for the hard line to flex lines were missing so I had to order some from eBay to keep the project moving.

After the brake lines it's time to install the engine and trans. They have been waiting for over a month to get installed. BUT the engine mount and trans plate are on back order. They said not to call FFR for the first 15 days after delivery so Wednesday I'll find out the status of them. I hope it's not long. I still have a list of things to do so it will not be a big problem if I need to wait a week. But after that I'll have to get the engine mounts locally. Can some one that has a 33 HR with a SB Chev take a picture of your mounts. That would help if I need to get some.

I put the firewall in place and holes drilled. I have a noticeable blue half moon on the top piece. Not good! I want the firewall and foot panels mirror polished. I thought of doing it myself but the cost of tools and materials is more than I thought. I am now thinking to have a metal shop do it for me if the price is reasonable. The chrome pieces I found in the boxes for the car are spectacular! So is the rest of the interior pieces. I don't want to go overboard but it has to look good.

It's beginning to look like a car. Next week will be spent cleaning up the brakes and doing as much as I can with the parts I have.

I finished my inventory. No broken pieces but quite a few important parts on back order. I could not resist putting the seats in. I ordered the leather seats and they look really great. My grandson had to try them out.

107017107018107019107020107021

[JimLev]

Not sure if this will help you or not as it's an LS3 not a 383.
You should be able to get the mounts from Summit or Jegs.
You'll have to make the triangle plates.

107083

107084

[colsen23153]

Not sure if this will help you or not as it's an LS3 not a 383.
You should be able to get the mounts from Summit or Jegs.
You'll have to make the triangle plates.

107083

107084

The engine mount for a LS3 uses 4 bolts to the block. The 350 uses 3 bolts to the block. I think that is correct. Yup just checked 3 bolts on my 383.

I went looking at the pictures I took at build school and found the motor mounts.
107101107102
I'll email FFR Tech tomorrow and see if they can give me a part number for Napa.

Got a reply from Tech @ FFR and the part number to use if you want to buy locally is energy suspension 3.1114G. I priced them and they are about $45 a piece. When I call about my backordered parts I'm going to see if it shipped. If not I'll see if they can give me a credit for the part and I'll buy them here. I'm going to FFR around Thanksgiving to buy some more options anyhow. We shall see.

Thanks for your pictures.

Update 5/15/2019 I called FFR today to check on the status of my back ordered parts. When they transferred me to the shipping department I explained I was checking on the status. The guy almost laughed and without asking me any information said" You wouldn't see any of the parts for another month." That didn't set well with me. I asked if I could get a credit if I bought some parts locally and he transferred me to the sails dept. He said he could only give me a $18 and change credit a piece for the motor mounts. That is better then nothing and I ordered the mounts from Summit. Should have them in a few days. Turns out to about a $55 difference but now I can get the motor in and work on running the lines, wiring, etc to get it running. Better then waiting another month.

I'm very discouraged with all the delays I have had since I placed my order. Maybe when I'm riding down the road in it I'll think back and laugh about it.

[colsen23153]

Well a lot has happened over the last week. I finally got my rear brakes worked out. You can check what happened here https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32179-8-8-quot-Rear-with-brake-calipers-on-the-back-side-instead-of-facing-the-front-of-the-car
On Wednesday I called FFR to check on the status of my back ordered parts. They said and I quote "You wouldn't see any of those parts for another month.". That p***** me off. My build has been coming along very quickly and I was at the point of installing the engine. Problem was that my motor mounts were, you guessed it, on back order. I got transferred to sales and asked if they can give me a credit if I purchased the mounts locally. He did and I did. Mounts came in Friday then Saturday late afternoon started to install the engine. I'm putting a small block Chevrolet in my 33. Everyone has said that you have to modify the spacer by 1/2". I did but when installing it it looked not right. So we tried it by adding washers and it still wasn't right. Besides the thru bolt was now too short. Next morning and a trip to Lowes to get some hardware. I tried four times with different combinations of spacers, extra nut, washers and the only way it worked was with the original 1/2" spacer. We weren't tightening up the plates to the frame which made it all look out of wack.

I got the motor/trans from Blue Print Engines all dressed out. But the chain was in the way so off came the distributor, coil, A/C and alternator. 107609 Here were the critical points. The trans pan and the frame 107610 and the clearance from the crank pulley and the rack and pinion 107611 Here is the spaces on the mount 107612
Here it is all decked out again. 107613 Blue Print sent me a belt tensioner. Works off mounting bolts on the A/C and alternator 107614 way cool!

107615 I like headers on any engine.
It's looking more and more like a car every day. 107616 Back end with the fuel tank installed this week also. 107617

Next week I'm looking at bending fuel lines. Finishing up the brakes and bleeding them and starting on the wiring of the engine and fuel pump. I have to make a few inquires with Blue Print to find out the timing since I removed the distributor and TCI for some fix for the speedometer hook up.

[Tim_Dust]

Hi Cliff - the build looks like it is going well! I am envious because my kit will not be ready for shipping until late July (at my request).

I am already thinking about the flow of the project, and you seem to be making some choices that I wonder about when I read other forum entries. Namely, mock-ups. First, It looks like you have riveted the firewall in place pretty early on and I wonder if you can comment on this. Regrets? Too soon to tell? Are you planning to get the whole thing built, then tear it down for powder coating parts, then reassembly? (Comments from others on this point are MUCH appreciated.) Also, the dilemma you faced with the motor mounts hits close to home. I will be installing the BluePrint chevy SB 400, and have already noted that the mount will need modifications. If you have the time, I would love to read the details about your overall solution. For example, did you make the triangular plates? From what material?

Thanks in advance! Good luck with your progress!

[peterh226]

We installed a Blueprint 383 at the build school and just played with the spacer around the engine mounts. The crank pulley is REALLY close, but appeared like it would be OK. Harbor Freight has a angle adjuster for the engine hoist and that looks to be work a lot during an install.

[colsen23153]

Tim_Dust

I am retired and had a lot of time on my hands. I decided building the 33 would solve that problem. You can see from my earlier posts that from the time you order your kit until it finally arrives is quite a long time. The anticipation was killing me. There are many ways to go about building a kit. One of the suggestions I heard about was to get your car built but don't wait until your completely finished as in painted and everything. Get it driveable with the unfinished body on it and have some fun with it. Work the bugs out. Go to car shows and auto crosses. Then do the body work, sanding, blocking, sanding, prime and paint. Re do the things that didn't look the way you want. That's the path I have chosen. After I got the kit delivered I spent about 10 to 12 hours a day for the first two and a half weeks. 17 days straight. Now I have backed off to between 4 to 6 hours a day. They estimate between 400 to 800 hours for a build. So I have spent about 200 hours so far.

As far as the firewall, That has to be done before you put the engine in. It's almost impossible to do it after the engine is in. I am going by the assembly manual that I got at build school. You will find out if you skip ahead when you come back again you will find that what you did is now in the way and you have to take it apart.

In the beginning of the manual they list about 6 or 8 parts to powder coat. That is just the beginning. You will find in later steps that other parts should have been on that list. That list isn't half the parts to coat. I was going to powder coat my parts ahead of assembly. When I checked with the powder coating place they will not powder coat parts that have grease in them. That's the upper and lower control arms. I went with Eastwood metal prep and black chassis paint. I don't have a paint booth so my parts didn't come out looking perfect. I know later on I will have to take them off and touch them up.

That's my approach to this build. I will build it with bike fenders and get it registered, insured and plates and drive it. Next year I will take the body off and have it painted. Black with red pearl. I'll assemble it with the hard top on. This year roadster. Next year hard top and the year after with complete fenders and running boards.

I'm gathering pictures to explain the motor mount changes you will have to make with your 400. I'll post that next time.

[colsen23153]

Tim_Dust

The stock motor mount for the small block Chevrolet will have a clearance problem between the crank pulley and the rack & pinion. The modification will move the engine back 1/2". In this photo Item 3 is the stock spacer. 107717 What you do is to cut 1/2" off the end. Keep both pieces and assemble the mount as in this picture. 107718 That will give you the clearance you need as in this picture. 107719.

Some people have done it other ways but this worked for me. The thru bolt is M12 and will be short. You need to get one about 1/2" longer.

It looks funny when you are done. The back mount off the block is like hanging in air. You can get a 3/4" nut and use that as a spacer between the engine plate and that engine mount from the block. The instructions say to leave the engine plates from the chassis loose until you get the thru bolt mounted. When you tighten the plates it will align up nicely.

Cliff

Ps. I rotated that second picture but it keeps showing up 90 deg. out.

[colsen23153]

I just had to post this picture tonight. 107770

The iconic 33 grill.

I HATE RIVNUTS!!!!! I couldn't get the one that was part of the kit to work. I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of theirs and although it did work, I think my hands are going to hurt real bad tonight. It's crazy mounting the radiator to the grill and the A/C condenser. Trying to get all three to align and get the bolt into the rivnut took me three hours. Once all the bolts were in the rest was a breeze. Now I have to try not to scratch it :)

Cliff

[HVACMAN]

I just had to post this picture tonight. 107770

The iconic 33 grill.

I HATE RIVNUTS!!!!! I couldn't get the one that was part of the kit to work. I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of theirs and although it did work, I think my hands are going to hurt real bad tonight. It's crazy mounting the radiator to the grill and the A/C condenser. Trying to get all three to align and get the bolt into the rivnut took me three hours. Once all the bolts were in the rest was a breeze. Now I have to try not to scratch it :)

Cliff

I bought an Astro 1442, on Amazon, for most applications and the HF one I use in tight spots.

[FF33rod]

I feel your pain Cliff. Putting that assembly took me a long time as well and ended up oversizing a few of the holes so that the bolts would go through. The pressure needed for the rivnuts is crazy. I end up using a tongue & groove plier on the handle to get better pressure and have to readjust about 3 times to get it to crimp all the way. It wasn't the most intuitive operation to learn. But damn, having it together and seeing it on the front end makes you feel good doesn't it!

[colsen23153]

Today I'm finishing the radiator. Running the lower and upper hoses. When it came to the upper hose I found this ugly angle 107799 and wondered if they made a straight thermostat housing. Found one on Summit that rotated 360 degrees put it in my cart went back to work on the hoses. Well I have a Blue Print Engine and when it came time to work on the upper hose found that this engine came with one. Just loosed the bolts and twist it like this. 107801 Now it looks real good. Emptied my cart. Saved $35. On to transmission mount. Should be fun.

Sorry for the Thumbnail. How do you delete them?

[colsen23153]

Spent the better part of the day fabrication a transmission adapter plate for the transmission mount. You can see it here https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32274-700-R4-transmission-installation-help-needed

Some times things that should be so simple are the darnedest things to get done.

Fuel lines this week end. I hope to have it ready to start in a week or week and a half.

[colsen23153]

While I'm thinking of it.

When you are installing the aluminum panels and putting silicone down first, that stuff sets up fast. So, after placing the panel on put the rivets in all the holes then crimp them down like when you torque a head. Jump around. DON'T start on one end and work around to the other side. By the time you get there the silicone will have set up and it will not let the panel sit flush. And don't let the silicone blob up. Apply a thin coat of it. You'll thank me later. How do I know this? :) Don't ask.

Cliff

[colsen23153]

This last week was a bit of a learning experience.

The transmission mount ended up that I will ask FFR for the plate for the transmission I have. That should take care of that. I did receive the Lokar shifter. I have to determine the final position after the seat is in place. Then I will cut the shifting rod and make the final adjustment.

The brakes are finally bleed. My son came over and helped. It turned out to be air in the line. The peddle starts soft but doesn't go to the floor as before. Final adjustment when I go-cart later next month.

I did get a partial shipment from FFR this week. The trans. mount came with a copy of the new manual and a few brackets and cables. Still waiting for my front springs and steering wheel.

I wanted to have the fuel lines run by now but the trans. mount and brakes set me behind. I will get them done this week. In talking with my son I changed how I was going to route them. I have the meters are temporally placed on a board along with the switches. Getting ready for the first start.

So here are a couple of pictures 107941 107942. You won't see much of a difference as most of the changes are adjustments and small things that have to be done.

Cliff

[AJT '33]

Suggestion for your brake lines, take some old wire hangers or similar wire and use that as a template for your brake line routing. That way you can try out a route then change it if needed. At the same time you can then use that pre-bent wire as a template for the brake line keeping any mess ups or over bends to a minimum. This is particularly handy going from the dash area to the underside of the car and in the rear to the brakes there.

[JOP33]

Suggestion for your brake lines, take some old wire hangers or similar wire and use that as a template for your brake line routing. That way you can try out a route then change it if needed. At the same time you can then use that pre-bent wire as a template for the brake line keeping any mess ups or over bends to a minimum. This is particularly handy going from the dash area to the underside of the car and in the rear to the brakes there.

Just to piggyback on this great suggestion...I used copper waterline for a refrigerator. Just a bit more expensive, but holds its shape a little better than most wire and gives you a true sense of fitting the line between the tubes, etc..

[Tim_Dust]

Cliff, Thanks for the excellent description for the SBC motor mount!

[colsen23153]

My work on the car came to a screeching halt today. I had to have some stitches in my hand for a small cut I got while drilling for the rivets. Nothing serious but can't use my hand for a few days.

I was working on a few problems this week. The fuel fittings for the Sniper won't clear the low profile air cleaner. I fount 45 degree bend fittings that I hope will work. I finished the fuel line run but ran into a problem with the return fitting. Holly expects a 3/8" fuel and return lines. FFR sent 1/4" return line. So I need to find a fitting solution for that. After bending the fuel lines 108192108193 I wanted to find a better way for the transmission cooling lines. I decided to get pre bent lines for a '82 - '91 Camaro. I'll cut the ends that go to the radiator on the Camaro and just put up with bending replacement lines to the 33 radiator. The transmission plate came in from FFR so I replaced the one I made. I'm still mot satisfied with it. There are spaces in it to clear the bolt heads. I will rework that to remove the spacers. It jacks up the tail shaft and creates a up angle I don't like.

While waiting for parts to come in I jumped ahead in the instructions and started putting the floor in. Gen 2 has a new floor. It's a foam core sandwiched with aluminum sheets. If you don't have a lift like I don't have you have to lay on your back while drilling the rivet holes in the frame. With drilling fillings flying around it's not something you want to do again.

This is the unfinished floor. Just to give you an idea of what it looks like. 108166

My lay up will give me time to work out some of my problems.

Your gloves should not be here when you are working on the car. 108170

[TxMike64]

This is the unfinished floor. Just to give you an idea of what it looks like. 108166

So the new foam core floor is just a sheet of aluminum that rivets under the floor frame, foam between, and sheet of aluminum that rivets to the top of the floor frame?

[peterh226]

Yes and a special adhesive to bond it all together. I’m not sure what the foam core is but it has a ceramic feel. I don’t want to test it, but I’d expect it to be very brittle.

[Michael101]

“I had to have some stitches in my hand...”
It’s a full contact sport sometimes! I had a Irwin clamp punch me in the nose yesterday, ended up with blood all over me. My wife was impressed ��

[colsen23153]

This 108352 can be a little intimidating! If you look at all those wires it can but stay focused and work on one wire at a time and before you know it it's done. Hopefully sometime today. Most of the wiring is completed. I still have to work out hooking up the Holly Sniper. It's a bit confusing with the pink and the yellow wires. Seams to me they both go to Accessory 12 V. Anybody have one that's hooked up and running to give some advice?

UPDATE: I found this link to be helpful https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29907-Holley-Sniper-EFI-Wiring-Issue&highlight=sniper+fan

Update: I have a Odyssey Extreme PC925. I think it's one of the recommended batteries. It comes with out battery posts. The wiring harness comes with battery wires terminated for .. wait for it .. posts. I went to the local Napa store and bought screw in posts only to find out the battery is set up for 6 mm screws not your standard. So I Googled the battery only to find out there is an accessory pack for installing posts on the battery. Part number 3217-0006. They are on order but delivery isn't until Monday. Big disappointment. So now I'm trying to scrounge a battery from my son. I really want to start this thing by this week end.

Floor done. After putting down the adhesive and covering it with the top aluminum I decided to step on it to make good contact. Well it came up through the holes for the rivets and left poker dots all over it. :) I was able to clean it up with a little acetone.

[colsen23153]

Had to revisit the 700R4 transmission mount again. It started at the passenger side exhaust pipe to header clearance. They just would not meet. I contacted FFR tec. and they asked what trans. I was using and take a picture of the trans mount. I had received the mounting plate from FFR but the bolts that went into the trans. interfered with the anodized plate on the Ford mount. I put spacers to clear the bolt heads. Well that put the trans. at an angle that made the exhaust not mate to the header. They said to just order a GM trans. mount and get rid of the plate and Ford mount. Well parts on order again.

I finally finished the cooling lines for the trans. to the radiator. On the second line I duplicated my first line but when I made the 90 deg. bend to the other side of the radiator I kinked the line. Cut that piece off, went to Napa for a union fitting and added the last piece. Clamped it to the frame and said good riddens to the line bending.

I tried to put the drive shaft in but it hits the floor. Called it a night. I'll look at it in the morning. Enough grief for one day.

[colsen23153]

Today I was putting the fluids in and checking for leaks. My battery posts came in so I hooked up the Sniper and gave it a try. Well I just tried to upload the video of my initial start but I couldn't get it to upload. Believe me it started right up. I'll post the video as soon as I figure it out.

It didn't start without having a few problems. I followed the suggestions from the forum and wired the Sniper. I cut into the harness to run the fuel pump. It is a little different than what is in the book. Just cut the brown wire and attach the blue wire from the Sniper to the outside brown wire like this 108535.

I have a wiring error on the harness with the plug that goes to the rear harness. Look here 108536 See the black and purple wires? They are reversed. So the fuel gauge and pump didn't have a ground return. I just hooked up a temporary ground for them so I could run the engine. Does anybody know how to extract the pins from this plug?

Now that I have the engine running I better clean up the rest of the wiring. It's a shame I can't Go-kart it yet. My steering wheel and front springs are on back order. I think I already mentioned that.

[sethmark]

Weatherpack pins are like Chinese finger cuffs. You have to collapse the wings to get them to unclip. There’s actually a tool for it. The other option is to try and get something over top to set the pins down so you can pull it out.

[colsen23153]

This week it seams I didn't accomplish much but I was busy doing it. The wiring error I mentioned in previous post was fixed when I ordered a tool from Amazon to get the pins out of the plug. 108869 It was only $10 and I hope I don't need to use it again. I also relocated the fuel pump and filters to below the fuel tank. 108870.

I had trouble with the Lokar shifter. The rod appeared to be short and the company sent me a longer one. I am not fully satisfied with the shifting. It's very hard and the button in the shifter doesn't pop up all the time. I will probably need to re adjust it again. 108871

I'm still having problems with the passenger side exhaust hitting the underside of the floor. I have tried many ways to mount it and it's now pressed firmly against the floor and the frame rail. That will also need adjusting.

My son came over to give me a hand and we checked the timing. It was off a few degrees. I had to remove the distributor to get the motor in the frame. We also figured out the gas pedal linkage and the TV cable from the transmission.

I checked again with FFR about my back ordered front springs and steering wheel. They said this week or next. This week is over so I hope it is next week. If not I'll call Dave Smith and ask him why he is selling cars without these parts. I ordered my car 1/23/19. I wonder if anybody with chassis number higher then 1118 received their kit with the front springs and steering wheel?

[OnlyAndy]

I feel your pain on the exhaust install. I am kit #1095 with SBC 350 and tremac 5 speed. I had So much trouble with the pipes from header to muffler, from muffler back was easy peasy. From driver to passenger side on my install the "S" pipes were the same, so swapping them side to side made No Difference. Driver side was acceptable but passenger side angled up and hit floor like yours are doing. MY FIX,,,, after many phone calls to F5, they said all the tolerances on All the parts were working against me. Maybe so but I ended up cutting a PIE wedge cut at one of the mount flanges to give me the correct angle, then had a local shop TIG weld the pipe back up. Made a huge difference. I ALSO put BOTH "S" pipes from each side and put them into an arbor press to "flatten" them out a bit where they go through the frame. That helped also. The theory was,,, volume in pipe would not decrease by flattening it,,, F5 agreed. I had a lot anxiety doing this,,, I figured I was doing something wrong and the kit should just bolt up. Anyway, it worked,,, Good luck on yours....

[colsen23153]

OnlyAndy
I think the "PIE" thing is what I'll end up doing tomorrow. I am so fed up with this problem, I need to move on. It sounds like you have a Gen 1 build but the idea is the same. I posted this on Facebook and every one there ended up doing the same thing.
Thanks

[colsen23153]

I spent another day and a half trying to get everything aligned up for the exhaust pipes. Motor mounts, headers, etc. Still no joy. I don't have the skill or equipment to cut a pie in the pipes. I feel, if I did cut a pie and had a shop weld it up it might not quite work and need another pie cut and trip to the shop for welding. I decided to hang the mufflers and exit tail pipes in their position, closest to where they almost fit those shorty pipes and bring it to a muffler shop and have them finish it. So I have moved on and am installing the aluminum pieces and getting it ready for the body. Hopefully, I can get the body on and receive my missing parts from FFR this week end.

[HVACMAN]

I spent another day and a half trying to get everything aligned up for the exhaust pipes. Motor mounts, headers, etc. Still no joy. I don't have the skill or equipment to cut a pie in the pipes. I feel, if I did cut a pie and had a shop weld it up it might not quite work and need another pie cut and trip to the shop for welding. I decided to hang the mufflers and exit tail pipes in their position, closest to where they almost fit those shorty pipes and bring it to a muffler shop and have them finish it. So I have moved on and am installing the aluminum pieces and getting it ready for the body. Hopefully, I can get the body on and receive my missing parts from FFR this week end.

I feel your pain. I had the same problem with the LS. It took two trips to the welder to get it right. I made the cuts with a port a band but I think it could be done carefully with a hacksaw.

[Kamp]

You might want to invest in an inexpensive Harbor Freight 4 1/2" grinder and some of their thin metal cutting disks. You can easily cut stainless, steel, fiberglass you name it.

[colsen23153]

Like many of you I bought the ODYSSEY Extreme Series Battery PC925 that was suggested. 109268 It is a smaller than normal batteries and the battery hold down bracket doesn't fit. It's made for the common batteries. I did a look up for a battery holder for this battery and was shocked to see the cost. But I also saw that the battery could be mounted on its side. So with a little blacksmith work I turned this 109269 into this. 109270 Now I can mount my battery on the back shelf in the trunk for $0. 109271

[colsen23153]

Today with the help of two of my grandchildren I was able to get the body on the frame. A problem came up with the front lower part of the body hitting the frame. In these pictures 109373 109374 you can see just below a cut to the body to clear a weld joint the piece still continues down and hits the frame where the lower firewall meet. I have a message in to FFR to see what has to happen there.

But as you can see the body is on. 109375 109376 109377

I received a notice that I was getting some parts from FFR today and I was hoping for the best. No the steering wheel and coil over springs didn't come in. Just a light switch which they had previously sent me. Well I found some steering wheels on ebay that would work and I am ordering one. I don't know what I will do with it when my steering wheel comes in. Later on that. For the coil overs I am getting 3" PVC and cutting about a 7" length off and rebuilding the front shocks with that. If it holds up I will go-kart it like that.

It is a total shame that FFR can't get their act together!

Updates as they happen. Next week should be a fun week. ;)

[FF33rod]

Which coil over springs are you missing? I have some extras, can't remember if it is 2 or all 4, will have a look when I head out to the garage in a few minutes. Weird thing with being in Canada - they have "completion" kits that you order from Ryan and in some areas you end up with duplicates if you order upgrade options - I got some 3 link rear end parts even though I ordered the IRS, got some standard springs and shocks even though I ordered the upgraded double adjustable.....

Update: I have 2 extra springs #300, 2 standard shocks, along with the associated sleeves etc. Suspect they are for the rear but not sure. They're yours if it will help.

[peterh226]

I had to trim down that edge so it didn’t hold the body out of position. Just so that flange didn’t touch anything. All part of the fun!!

[FF33rod]

I had to trim down that edge so it didn’t hold the body out of position. Just so that flange didn’t touch anything. All part of the fun!!

Just trial fit the Gen 1 body on the frame and it has the same issue, will have to trim down...

[colsen23153]

Which coil over springs are you missing? I have some extras, can't remember if it is 2 or all 4, will have a look when I head out to the garage in a few minutes. Weird thing with being in Canada - they have "completion" kits that you order from Ryan and in some areas you end up with duplicates if you order upgrade options - I got some 3 link rear end parts even though I ordered the IRS, got some standard springs and shocks even though I ordered the upgraded double adjustable.....

Update: I have 2 extra springs #300, 2 standard shocks, along with the associated sleeves etc. Suspect they are for the rear but not sure. They're yours if it will help.

Thanks for the offer. The ones I am looking for are #400. Look at my next post and see what I'm using instead. If I don't get my springs in the next two weeks I'll take you up on your offer. Cliff

[colsen23153]

Now that I have the body on the car I need it to be a roller. I'm not doing fiberglass work in my attached garage. That will spell disaster with the wife. I have been thinking of this for a few days and this afternoon I went to Lowe's. I bought a 2 foot length of 3" PVC pipe. I cut two 7" sections out of it and did this> 109385

I put the tires on and now I have a roller. No steering wheel on it yet but I ordered one from Ebay and I should have it by Wednesday. I can then drive it out back and work on it. I also can take it to the muffler shop and get that work done. I'm getting there by hook or by crook. :)

109386 109387

[colsen23153]

I had to trim down that edge so it didn’t hold the body out of position. Just so that flange didn’t touch anything. All part of the fun!!

I was thinking I had to do that but you know... If you cut something off you can't put it back. :) I'll do that also.

[peterh226]

I made a frame out of steel tube and some 6” casters and roll it out on the driveway for all sanding. The vacuum the batuff up and blow it out into the yard. Keeps the garage clean. Next is to build a spray booth for primer and paint. The slick sand I can just do in the driveway as well.

[JimLev]

[QUOTE=colsen23153;371853]

109386

I like that open/removable dash opening, wish the Gen 1 had it. I'm seriously thinking about cutting mine and then finding a metal sheet to mount the gauges in.
I feel your pain on the collectors to the S pipe connection. If I used the supplied FF exhaust manifold the alignment probably would have been OK. I think I spent the better part of a week making sure the cut angles and measurements were OK before I tacked parts together.

[colsen23153]

I have a question on the electric steering option. The instructions say to connect the green wire to switched B+. The problem is I don't see a green wire. I have heavy red/black which go to the battery, a white wire with a spade connector (which the instructions say isn't needed except for trouble shooting) and the blue wire. I tried touching the blue wire to B+ but the LED doesn't come on and is still hard to steer. There is a LED but it doesn't light. Any suggestions?

Wires going in to control box >109464
Wires coming out >109465

[JimLev]

Is that the control box that came with the electric steering from FF?
There's a green wire in your first pic, where does the other end of the green wire go? Is it taped up?
My box came from Electric-Steer. It only has 2 connectors on it. One has the green wire.


109466

[colsen23153]

Is that the control box that came with the electric steering from FF?
There's a green wire in your first pic, where does the other end of the green wire go? Is it taped up?
My box came from Electric-Steer. It only has 2 connectors on it. One has the green wire.


109466

That is the control box that came from FFR.
My control box came with 4 plugs. Two from the motor (with a green wire, my first picture) and two out with red/black and white, blue & brown. Open your box up and check your plugs. Do they match what I have?

[JimLev]

Your box is much different than mine.
My control box only has 3 sockets on it. It's a UniSteer/Electra-Steer kit, p/n 8051500.
One connector for the steering motor, one for the steering position encoder, and another with 8 wires.
The 8 wire connector has 2 for battery connection, red & black
Orange for an LED (so you know it's active)
Green for Key on and to the other side of the LED
White and Purple wires for some code reader interface we don't use.
Blue & yellow wires that we don't use. I asked Unisteer what they were for, they said they had no idea.

[colsen23153]

Your box is much different than mine.
My control box only has 3 sockets on it. It's a UniSteer/Electra-Steer kit, p/n 8051500.
One connector for the steering motor, one for the steering position encoder, and another with 8 wires.
The 8 wire connector has 2 for battery connection, red & black
Orange for an LED (so you know it's active)
Green for Key on and to the other side of the LED
White and Purple wires for some code reader interface we don't use.
Blue & yellow wires that we don't use. I asked Unisteer what they were for, they said they had no idea.

Yes I have the "new" box with 4 plugs. I was looking at the old instructions in the PDF's. In the new manual it says to connect the white wire to the switched B+

All is good and working. Thanks for your help. Cliff

Update: In my defence, it was about 5 weeks ago that I put the steering option in and it said to wait until you put in the wiring harness in to hook it up. I was so far ahead in the manual that I didn't reference back to that page and instead looked at the pdf instructions that were wrong for this model. My error. It will never happen again. ;) :)

[colsen23153]

Which coil over springs are you missing? I have some extras, can't remember if it is 2 or all 4, will have a look when I head out to the garage in a few minutes. Weird thing with being in Canada - they have "completion" kits that you order from Ryan and in some areas you end up with duplicates if you order upgrade options - I got some 3 link rear end parts even though I ordered the IRS, got some standard springs and shocks even though I ordered the upgraded double adjustable.....

Update: I have 2 extra springs #300, 2 standard shocks, along with the associated sleeves etc. Suspect they are for the rear but not sure. They're yours if it will help.

PM sent

[colsen23153]

I now have a steering wheel. A bit small from Ebay. Finished putting the battery in the trunk. Working on e-brake cables. More on that after I get them back from the welder (my son).
109640

Did anyone raise the seat? I have a slider but it is only one inch high. I'm thinking of between 2 and 4 inches.

[JimLev]

I raised the bottom of the seat frame 6" off the floor. Much easier to see the right front corner of the car now.
I think I'll still have ar least 2" above my head to the top (it's not on yet)

[colsen23153]

Every time I think I am getting myself close to Go-Karting this thing some thing comes up. This time it was the drive shaft. I received a aluminum spacer with the kit that fits my rear output shaft perfectly except that the hole pattern is different 3" vs 2.5". If I put just the drive shaft on it bolts to the rear but there is only 1" that fits inside the output shaft of the transmission (700 R4). I do not like that and will not drive it that way. I emailed FFR and they had me measure the drive shaft. They measure from the end flange beginning to the shoulder of the U joint to the part that goes into the transmission. Yellow line. I came up with 34".
109668 109669

They asked what they sent me and it was part # 34880 35" drive shaft. They said the spacer that was sent to me was for a different rear and was not needed. They are sending me a new drive shaft and want the one I have returned. Well that is good but they don't have the correct shaft in stock and it's back ordered for a few (2) weeks. A story I have heard many times before.

So I bought a steering wheel off of Ebay and used PVC pipe for my front coil overs and now I'm going to find some way to get the spacer drilled for the correct bolt pattern for the drive shaft. They do sell the spacers for $54 but I'll try to get this spacer drilled first. A person from Canada is sending me 300# springs to replace the PVC pipe.

I think all of these delays has put me back 4 weeks or more. I wounder what else is missing or the wrong part.

They stated in the brochure that building this car is an enjoyable adventure. They got the last part correct.

[sethmark]

It’s unfortunate that they oversell the ease. It’s still building a car from raw components. My gen 1 cobra was a nightmare relatively speaking, but my skill set and their product has improved over the years. It’s definitely not legos. The way I explained it to my kid, is that anyone can build a car. The skills can be learned. What hard is the problem-solving.

[FF33rod]

I found it a bit frustrating at first as well. There are many add-ons I am putting on the car, tools to be had, supplies,... All require figuring out, ordering and picking up - most of the stuff is only available in the US or costs twice as much to have delivered in Canada. So many delays. I had to take a deep breath, remind myself it isn't a race, and find other things to work on in parallel.

Your springs are on the way...

Steve

[colsen23153]

I'm back with the transmission mount. It actually is the fact that the shorty pipes are not aligning with the flange with the "S" pipe and mufflers. There isn't enough clearance between the flange on the shorty pipe and the floor. FFR says that what they sent for a small block Chevy with a 700 R4 trans will work with the exhaust system. So I'm looking for things that aren't just right. I made sure that the engine mounting is all the way down. It is now. The transmission is not in perfect incidence with the frame floor. I leveled the car so the floor is as close to zero incidence as I could get it but when I move the incidence meter to the pan on the transmission it's off by a few degrees up. So I am trying with all combinations of transmission mounts (Ford from FFR, Spacer plate from FFR and stock GM) and spacers to get it to zero. It is now zero incidence with the floor. I am wondering how others have made out with the alignment of exhaust to muffler. A few have suggested cutting a "PIE" slice and weld it back.

Has anyone successfully installed this engine/trans combo to the exhaust without problems?

Thanks,
Cliff

Update: I put the "S" pipe on the muffler and with the help of my son, we went under the car just to see how far off the alignment between the "S" pipe and the shorty pipe from the header with the muffler up against the bottom of the floor.
109931
It's not even close. A "pie" cut is not going to fix that. I contacted FFR to see what they think. I have not heard from them yet. It looks like the shorty pipe from the header is for the Gen 1 chassis. Where it fits the muffler between the floor members.

Update: I raised the "S" pipe up and raised the motor 1/4" by reversing the triangle motor mounting plates that attach to the frame. It just fits now without any cutting. I'm not 100% satisfied with this because the transmission tail shaft is almost on the floor. More updates after I get the correct driveshaft from FFR.

[colsen23153]

My axle came with the calipers behind the axle. I needed brake cables but nothing I found would fit. So I Googled and found this video that shows how to shorten the parking brake cable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeyaFW1CFPY

Good information on how to do it. I found brake cables long enough and with the proper ends for a Cobra from AutoZone . Part # C2491
https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-cable/brakeware-brake-cable-c2491/912784_4777_6134

I ordered two, measured both sides as they are not the same. Cut the end away from the caliper. Pulled the inner cable back. Cut the outer to length. Cut the end off the piece I just cut off that goes into the bracket. Got that piece tack welded to the outer sheathing. 110006Measured again to mark where the cable stop needs to be. Went to Lowes and bought #0656959 Ferrule & stop kit. Went to West Marine and the guy there crimped them on the cable ends. Installed fabricated emergency brake cables. Job done.

Cliff

[colsen23153]

Here are some additional pictures of my progress over the last week.
110491 110492 110493 110494

The adapter plate that came from FFR doesn't fit. I had to cut away on the Ford trans mount to clear the bolts that go into the trans.

I now have the body off so I can do some trimming. With the body off I took the car off the jack stands and wow! It has been a long time since I had it on the ground. It's really low.

Now the fun begins with body work. I already see some weld joints that need to be shaved for the body to conform to the frame. Pictures next week after I make some major progress.

[Tim_Dust]

I have not started the build process yet (ship date in a few weeks....), so forgive my ignorance. I am truly perplexed by the last picture in the series you posted today. It looks like your finger is touching the tail of the tranny, but above the floor pan. Please tell me that is some kind of optical illusion! Can you explain that pic please?

[FF33rod]

I have not started the build process yet (ship date in a few weeks....), so forgive my ignorance. I am truly perplexed by the last picture in the series you posted today. It looks like your finger is touching the tail of the tranny, but above the floor pan. Please tell me that is some kind of optical illusion! Can you explain that pic please?

That's correct Tim, tail of tranny and drive shaft are above the level of the floor - there is a "transmission and drive shaft hump" just like most front engine rear wheel drive vehicles. Have a look at the first pic of post 89 and the first pic of post 90 in my build thread to put things in context.... https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30110-1104-Steve-s-33-Rod-Build-Emergency-brake-panel-fitting-undercoat/page3

Steve

[Tim_Dust]

That's correct Tim, tail of tranny and drive shaft are above the level of the floor - there is a "transmission and drive shaft hump" just like most front engine rear wheel drive vehicles. Have a look at the first pic of post 89 and the first pic of post 90 in my build thread to put things in context.... https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30110-1104-Steve-s-33-Rod-Build-Emergency-brake-panel-fitting-undercoat/page3

Steve

Thanks Steve. I have seen pictures of the "hump" many times, but this one, explicitly with his finger touching the tail of the transmission, made me realize how tough it must be to replace that rear seal!

[colsen23153]

I have been working on this for over three weeks, maybe more. It all started when I mounted my engine & transmission with the mount for the transmission. The car comes with a Ford universal mount. I have a small block Chevrolet with a 700 R4 transmission. FFR said they have an adapter to mate that mount with my transmission. That doesn't work without a lot of modification as the bolt heads for the bolts for the transmission interfere with the Ford mount. After modifying the Ford mount I tried to get the exhaust on. It would not mate up. FFR tech said to get a 2 degree down incidence with the transmission. I couldn't do that in any combination of mounts (GM included) so I took a suggestion from someone on Facebook to raise the engine 1/4" by reversing the mounting plates that attach to the frame. I got about 5 degree incidence and the exhaust bolted up but just barely. The problem was that the tail shaft of the transmission was almost hitting the floor.

110561

Today I went about attaching the drive shaft. Here is a picture of that.

110562

As you can see there is not enough room for the universal joint.

I have been thinking all along that Factory Five Racing would not sell me something that would not fit. I was going to add something here but it was not appropriate.

What I am going to do now is to Put the engine mounting plates back to the original position. Another reason for doing this is that my Blue Print Engine needs a low profile air cleaner to fit under the stock hood. I am putting the GM transmission mount back on, which gave me more tail shaft clearance. Take the shorty pipes off from the headers and cut a pie into them to mate up to the exhaust.

[HVACMAN]

I have been working on this for over three weeks, maybe more. It all started when I mounted my engine & transmission with the mount for the transmission. The car comes with a Ford universal mount. I have a small block Chevrolet with a 700 R4 transmission. FFR said they have an adapter to mate that mount with my transmission. That doesn't work without a lot of modification as the bolt heads for the bolts for the transmission interfere with the Ford mount. After modifying the Ford mount I tried to get the exhaust on. It would not mate up. FFR tech said to get a 2 degree down incidence with the transmission. I couldn't do that in any combination of mounts (GM included) so I took a suggestion from someone on Facebook to raise the engine 1/4" by reversing the mounting plates that attach to the frame. I got about 5 degree incidence and the exhaust bolted up but just barely. The problem was that the tail shaft of the transmission was almost hitting the floor.

110561

Today I went about attaching the drive shaft. Here is a picture of that.

110562

As you can see there is not enough room for the universal joint.

I have been thinking all along that Factory Five Racing would not sell me something that would not fit. I was going to add something here but it was not appropriate.

What I am going to do now is to Put the engine mounting plates back to the original position. Another reason for doing this is that my Blue Print Engine needs a low profile air cleaner to fit under the stock hood. I am putting the GM transmission mount back on, which gave me more tail shaft clearance. Take the shorty pipes off from the headers and cut a pie into them to mate up to the exhaust.

Be sure to set your drive line angle before you do any cutting on the exhaust. I used a GM transmission mount from Summit and had to shim it about 1 1/4 inches (aluminum 1/4" shims) to achieve the proper angle.

[JimLev]

I used the mount supplied by FFR, made a few mods to it and added spacers.

110570

[colsen23153]

Be sure to set your drive line angle before you do any cutting on the exhaust. I used a GM transmission mount from Summit and had to shim it about 1 1/4 inches (aluminum 1/4" shims) to achieve the proper angle.

Yes I just checked and the angle is the wrong way (UP). So you have the mounting plate that attaches to the frame in the "U" position. Then added the inch and a quarter of shims?

My mounting plate is in the "n" position and I know I need to change it.

What is the distance between the floor and the bottom of the transmission tail shaft? I need a good reference. Thanks for your suggestion.

[HVACMAN]

Yes I just checked and the angle is the wrong way (UP). So you have the mounting plate that attaches to the frame in the "U" position. Then added the inch and a quarter of shims?

My mounting plate is in the "n" position and I know I need to change it.

What is the distance between the floor and the bottom of the transmission tail shaft? I need a good reference. Thanks for your suggestion.

All of that is covered up now but here are some pictures I found.110792110793110794110795

[AJT '33]

I had a piece of aluminum block cut to the correct height and size and installed it between the transmission and the bracket supplied by FFR to shim it up to where it was needed, I also used longer bolts as well.
110797

[TxMike64]

There's an easier, known fix.... Use FSB motor/trans mounts and that Windsor will slide right in! Sorry - a little F vs. Ch ribbing....

Man it sucks you're stuggling, but between the guys on this forum and F5 you should be able to get this to work. Maybe it's an unknown Gen2 chassis issue because they changed the floor structure? Are you stuck with the 700R4?

Good luck! Don't get discouraged!

[Mrallsport32]

Hope these pictures can help.

110809
110810
110811
That is the mount sent to me from F5.

[colsen23153]

There's an easier, known fix.... Use FSB motor/trans mounts and that Windsor will slide right in! Sorry - a little F vs. Ch ribbing....

Man it sucks you're stuggling, but between the guys on this forum and F5 you should be able to get this to work. Maybe it's an unknown Gen2 chassis issue because they changed the floor structure? Are you stuck with the 700R4?

Good luck! Don't get discouraged!

Yes I am stuck with the 700 R4. I bought the 383 and trans from BluePrint. It's a TCI trans and I understand it's a great transmission for a hot rod.

[colsen23153]

Hope these pictures can help.

110809
110810
110811
That is the mount sent to me from F5.

Yes. Thank you for your pictures. I see the Ford Trans mount with spacers then the black adapter plate. I like the height of the trans tail shaft.

UPDATE: Today I got a call from Factory Five. I sent them the pictures I have here and explained what I have tried and what got the exhaust on but the drive shaft won't go on, and other issues. They took that all to engineering and I was told they are going to make a adaptor for me to use to fix my problem. I should be able to bolt up the exhaust and have clearance for the drive shaft. I should have it in a few days or a week. Apparently they monitor the forum and can see the problems I am encountering. Since many of you have chimed in with what you have had to do and with the pie cuts that they are looking into it. So that is on hold and I'm moving on to the body portion of the build. Fingers crossed.

[colsen23153]

Hope these pictures can help.

110809
110810
110811
That is the mount sent to me from F5.

I set my trans mount as you have it. The driveshaft universal joint clears the floor ok. I like it this way and it is going to stay this way. The motor is almost level with just a tad down in the back. Much better then before.

UPDATE: I got some POLs today that I have been waiting a long time for. BUT the steering wheel is set up for an adapter with 9 mounting holes. The one on the car has 6. The center opening goes around the adapter. I sent pictures to FFR Tech. No response as of tonight.
I'm still waiting for my correct drive shaft and the exhaust fix that they said they were making. Priorities!
I'm going to the beach tomorrow for a week for a needed rest from all this drama. I have made up my mind that when I come back I will work thru these issues and get that car on the road next month. We shall see.

[colsen23153]

I received the correct steering wheel from FFR. They want the other back. Turns out it was for the truck.
The exhaust fix is not ready. they said it will go after the header connection. We shall see. I asked them if the fix would replace the shorty pipes so I could cut them up and make something that will work. They said to keep them.

Just came back from the beach today and already working on the car this afternoon. We will see what comes up this week as I have a lot of Dr. Appointments to go to.

Body has to come off again. Still not flush at the sides. I'm working on the seat brackets. With the body off I'll go kart it to adjust the brakes. The neighbors might not like it without the mufflers.

[colsen23153]

I was trying to install the heater A/C unit. The instruction are wrong as far as where to mount the unit and the center to center distance of the line fitting holes. The problem is that the evaporator is too far to the right. When you drill the holes for the line fittings in the fire wall the ones for the A/C hit the fan. There isn't much room for the heater hose either. I gave up tonight but tomorrow I'll tackle it with a fresh start and see what will make it work.

I'm also working with my son on some brackets for the seats. I'm using a suggestion from some one on Facebook. Should work fine.

[JimLev]

Are you using the Vintage Air AC/Heater?
I didn't have any problems mounting it where my manual showed.
The 4 bulkhead fitting go down below the Vintage Air in the footwell area.
Maybe you have a Gen 2? Don't think that part of the chassis would have changed.
Can you post a pic?

[FF33rod]

I think FFR has changed to a different Vintage Air unit for the gen 2. There are new instructions on their web site. I haven't encountered any problems with the older unit yet either.

[JimLev]

I just looked at the same link I used when I installed mine, there is a different unit shown now, page 32. It looks smaller that the one that came with my car.
The bulkhead connections are up top on the firewall now.
You could put those connections anywhere you want, just need to use longer hoses, or move the heater box over more to the center.
https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/AC-HEATER-DEFROSTER-Truck-Hot-Rod.pdf

[colsen23153]

I don't know if I have a Vintage Air AC/Heater. Nothing on it says that. It says Siroco? I have already drilled the fire wall where the instructions said not down below. Here are some pictures I took explaining to FFR Tec what the problem was. 112062 112063 112064 112065 112066

You can see that the fitting for the AC is blocked by the fan housing. Does the unit for the gen 1 say Vintage Air?

Tec was no help. They called the evaporator the condenser and vice versa.

I will run the car without heat and A/C until if moving the evaporator over left fixes it or I can get some good answers.

[FF33rod]

Yes, the unit I got is clearly identified as a Vintage Air. This unit...
https://www.vintageair.com/builder-series/?subcat1=Gen%20II%20Compac

Maybe they've changed away from Vintage. I was just looking at the instructions page of the FFR web site and noticed that the file name for the A/C installation instructions say it's for the truck. Maybe there is a different set for the 33? Perhaps you keep the bulkhead/firewall fittings in the same location as done in gen1?

[colsen23153]

Yes, the unit I got is clearly identified as a Vintage Air. This unit...
https://www.vintageair.com/builder-series/?subcat1=Gen%20II%20Compac

Maybe they've changed away from Vintage. I was just looking at the instructions page of the FFR web site and noticed that the file name for the A/C installation instructions say it's for the truck. Maybe there is a different set for the 33? Perhaps you keep the bulkhead/firewall fittings in the same location as done in gen1?

I already drilled the holes in the fire wall. I think the instructions are for the hot rod also. I'm going to move the unit over for clearance and order different fittings for the heater hoses.

FFR Trch confirmed they did change the unit. Possibly that is why the dimensions don't match up with the new unit.

[colsen23153]

I received my correct drive shaft from FFR mentioned way back. It finally came in and is the correct length. The fix for the exhaust hasn't come in yet. I can't wait so I bought some ball and socket pipes that I will use with some flex pipe until FFR comes through with the fix. I should be able to go kart in the next week and get the rest of my build on track. I have to put in the gas peddle in and the transmission mount.

[colsen23153]

I was notified by FFR that the exhaust fix has been cut and will be on it's way tomorrow. I sent the whole day trying to install temporary exhaust. Drivers side went in but couldn't get the proper bend in the header extension for the passenger side. I'll take it all out waiting for the parts to come in.

I installed the accelerator pedal. What have you done to shorten the cable? I cut most of it out and ran both ends inside a vacuum hose or fuel hose. Looks good but you have to be very careful with everything in that area of the car. The fuse panel, steering wiring. It's hard to find a safe place.

I might put the evaporator back in moved over while I wait for the exhaust fix to come in.

[FF33rod]

Wow, FFR actually told you ahead of time that something was going to come? Any time they sent me something on the POL all I got was the fedex notification that something was on the way. I had no idea what it was going to be until it showed up....

[peterh226]

You can just call them anytime and check. They have always been friendly about answering POL questions.

[colsen23153]

Wow, FFR actually told you ahead of time that something was going to come? Any time they sent me something on the POL all I got was the fedex notification that something was on the way. I had no idea what it was going to be until it showed up....

FFR has been working with me for a while now on the exhaust problem. I have tried everything they have asked and then some. They said some time ago that they would work up a "fix" in engineering. This is what they are sending not items on my POL.( I think they have sent everything on my POL now). When this comes in I hope it fixes the exhaust problem.

[HVACMAN]

FFR has been working with me for a while now on the exhaust problem. I have tried everything they have asked and then some. They said some time ago that they would work up a "fix" in engineering. This is what they are sending not items on my POL.( I think they have sent everything on my POL now). When this comes in I hope it fixes the exhaust problem.

Good luck. I had the same issues on the drivers side of my LS install. I finally modified the shorty pipe myself.

[colsen23153]

I got the "fix" from FFR today. It was nothing more them another set of 3 bolt flanges that go on the header. They were not tapered as I thought. Their idea was to get the shorty pipes lower. It did help the drivers side but not the passenger side. The small block Chevrolet has to be mounted 1/2" towards the back for clearance of the crank pulley and the steering rack. That automatically puts the right header almost blocked by a tube from the frame. By putting a spacer there it only makes matters worst. With everything bolted as tight as I could I still had an exhaust leak there.

I should have done this next thing a month and a half ago. Tomorrow I am taking that spacer out of the passenger side and put a pie cut to angle the pipe towards the motor and another cut to angle it down to meet the S pipe. I'll make one cut in the drivers side just to angle it down. I found some one to tig weld it back together. Hope to have it done by Monday night.

8/17
112527 112528

Now to get them cleaned up and welded.

8/19
Went to the welder. He tacked them and suggested I trial fit them. Passenger side was off a bit. fixed that. The drivers side, which was the best, was the worst. Had to redo it two times. They are at the welder to be finished.

8/21
Welded pipes are back. I am using the spacers given by FFR as the fix on both sides. The passenger side is good. The driver side hangs the muffler too low. My fault for trying to make it perfect and went too far. My son said he can heat them up and bend them the rest of the way. That's for tomorrow. I'm also going to look up a A/C company that will crimp the hoses and try to get some fittings that will work with this new model A/C unit. The directions don't work with the equipment given. New supplier and the unit is bigger. Thanks FFR.

[colsen23153]

Last night my son came over with the shorty exhaust pipe he heated and bent for the drivers side. The muffler was hanging down too much. It's OK now so I was able to get the car out of the garage to run the engine long enough to get it to the operating temperature. 112895 The thermostat opened at about 200 and went down to 180. The temperature rose to 210 without the radiator fan coming on. I have a Holly Sniper EFI controlling the fan. The led display was showing the fan as off. I thought it was to come on at that temperature. I grounded the fan relay and it came on. I changed the wiring to the thermostat on the radiator. I ran the car up and down the driveway but I didn't go hard on it. I still have to adjust the brake biasing.

Now to finish installing the exhaust option then the seat brackets and try it again Monday.

UPDATE: Found out the fan should come on about 218 230. I might re-connect the fan control from the EFI with the thermostat on the radiator just to be sure it comes on. Also the EFI might turn on the fan when you turn on the AC.

[sethmark]

Looking good! One bite at a time....

[colsen23153]

What a pleasure it is to put parts on the car with out major issues. I bought the exhaust option and putting the pipes on that exit the back went without a hitch. Well maybe a small one. With the SBC you have to set back the motor 1/2". The final exhaust pipe hits the trunk aluminum. Maybe it will be resolved with the final adjustments.

Installed the neutral safety switch on the Lokar shifter. I have a auto trans so I put the switch where the clutch safety switch would be.

My shifter is hard to shift. It does shift but it takes more effort then I would think it should. I have adjust it many, many times. Can't get it any better.

[colsen23153]

Went for a real Go-Kart today. The first try I had a few issues. All fixed now. Since then I lubricated the chassis, bolted in the drivers seat, installed the safety belts and adjusted the toe in. I didn't have a video of the try this time. 113697 The brakes were adjusted ok when I installed them. Front locks up just before the rear.

I did notice that with the seat belts on I could not reach the e-brake and key!!!!!!!!!!!! Any body else have that problem?

I can't believe the throttle response. Also, without the body on, there isn't any weight on the rear wheels. It's almost impossible to slowly feed on the gas. Just a slight touch and the rear wheels spin. (My drive way is all gravel.)

I used a suggestion from some one on Facebook for a seat bracket. I didn't want to bolt the seat to the floor. By using two 1 1/2" "L" brackets tacked together it makes a perfect fitting bracket. 113698 113699

Now that I have the car at this stage I'll concentrate on getting the body on with the front at the fire wall spacing correctly.

[colsen23153]

I don't know if I have a Vintage Air AC/Heater. Nothing on it says that. It says Siroco? I have already drilled the fire wall where the instructions said not down below. Here are some pictures I took explaining to FFR Tec what the problem was. 112062 112063 112064 112065 112066

You can see that the fitting for the AC is blocked by the fan housing. Does the unit for the gen 1 say Vintage Air?

Tec was no help. They called the evaporator the condenser and vice versa.

I will run the car without heat and A/C until if moving the evaporator over left fixes it or I can get some good answers.

As mentioned before the evaporator has changed from when the instructions were printed. That's why there was a problem following the directions.

I have a solution and it is quite simple. Drill the holes in the firewall as in the instructions. Don't put the fittings in the firewall as in the instructions. Instead put the fittings in the firewall as in this picture with the #8 fitting the lowest and outside. 113727 Then put the AC fittings on the outside pair. Those straight fittings will now clear the fan housing as in this picture. 113728 Then use the heater 90 degree fittings and point them down. Make a loop with the hose and connect them to the heater core as in the previous picture and this picture. 113729 Put the clamps on and get the AC lines crimped. Remember to have them crimped with the proper tool for Beadlock fittings.

[colsen23153]

Today I was working on the AC/Heater wiring. Following the instructions I had to make sure I was dealing with the proper wires. You know the saying "Measure twice, cut once" well the same applies with wiring. As mentioned before, this unit has changed over time and the color codes are not all the same. The two that were not, it didn't matter which way they were connected. I riveted the control panel to the bracket holding the evaporator up just as a temporary way of getting it off the floor. I connected the battery and at least the fan works. I will attach the rest of the hoses tomorrow.
113896
Next week I hope to finally put the body on and have it align at the fire wall.

[colsen23153]

FFR gives you two choices on how to mount the heater control module. Mount it on the frame or let it hang near the firewall. I was trying to keep the hoses away from the heat from the headers, so I let it hang near the firewall. Now that I ran the rest of the hoses to the engine I am second guessing myself in my decision. 114020

For a regular car that wouldn't look so bad but for a fully dressed engine I think I made the wrong decision. If you routed the hoses lower what does it look like?

[FF33rod]

I just finished doing mine - AC & heater hoses and heater control valve & AC drier. Really really pleased how it turned out. I'm at work right now but will edit this post to add a picture later. But as a preview, I used tube clamps as the mount mechanism for both the heater valve and the drier. https://www.amazon.ca/House-Tuning-Brackets-Clamps-4-1inch/dp/B071G2VB5R/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=House+Tuning+Light+Bar+Mount+B rackets+for+0.75+inch%2C0.875+inch%2C+1inch+Tube+C lamps&qid=1568049127&s=gateway&sr=8-1


EDIT: Here's a pic of what I did, more pics and details on my build thread, pg 3

114083

[sethmark]

Cliff,
I haven’t done the routing yet, but my intention is to run it below the inch and a half bar in the dash. I also intend on keeping everything but the plumbing inside the car.

[JimLev]

FFR gives you two choices on how to mount the heater control module. Mount it on the frame or let it hang near the firewall. I was trying to keep the hoses away from the heat from the headers, so I let it hang near the firewall. Now that I ran the rest of the hoses to the engine I am second guessing myself in my decision. 114020

For a regular car that wouldn't look so bad but for a fully dressed engine I think I made the wrong decision. If you routed the hoses lower what does it look like?

I mounted the heater valve on a bracket under the hood, then ran the hoses as far away from the engine as possible also made some heat shields between them and the headers.

114039

114040

[colsen23153]

I mounted the heater valve on a bracket under the hood, then ran the hoses as far away from the engine as possible also made some heat shields between them and the headers.

114039

114040

I see you have a gen 1 and it shows that the hoses can be on the outside of the round frame rail. I didn't have the body on yet so I couldn't see how far out I could go. I thought it had to all be inside that round rail. Thanks for the pictures and the idea.

[colsen23153]

Well I put the body back on the frame again after doing some trimming where the door latch is welded to the frame. It's angled in so I trimmed at an angle 16" to 20.5" up from the bottom on the body. I measured from the firewall outside left to the outside right and got 42 1/2". I measured the body before putting it on and where the firewall would go on both sides its 42 3/4". That's 1/4" difference. so it leaves 1/8" showing on each side. I wonder if the body is supposed to go under the frame at the firewall?

UPDATE:
Found out today from FFR that the body does not go under the frame. That means that the body, at the weld joint, at the firewall needs a stretched "V" cut into it to have the sides come in and get that 1/8" reveal. This isn't verified yet and I have not done it yet. Update coming.
114139 114140

UPDATE:
HHR said that's exactly where you need to cut to get the sides up against the firewall. It has been hot the last two days but before the end of the week I'll make thous cuts and get the body finally positioned so I can put the bolts along the lower door jam.

UPDATE:
Cut the body as indicated. I could have done a better job but the body was still on the frame and I didn't have much working room. Now the sides come into the lower door frame with room to spare. Now to find out what I'm going to use for the bolts. I'll have to search the forum.

[colsen23153]

Not much done to show for it but I have been busy cleaning up some items on my to do list. I set the steering wheel straight. I loosened the couplings between the rack and the electric motor. Centered the wheel and reconnected everything. I put the bolts and spacers in the trunk area for securing the body there. I couldn't find the supplied spacers so I had to make a trip to the local HW store. I think I have built this car twice already. It seams that every nut and bolt I put on the car I have to remove it some time later. I decided to run the heater hoses low on the chassis like others have done. To do that I had to order some more fittings. I'll show a picture after I get finished. Now that the body is on I can move on to the doors. I like the idea of the templet on the door hinges. The way they showed us in build school was not a very pleasant experience.

I ordered and received the upper control arms for the rear. I ordered the car with 3 point rear and again I'm second guessing that. I put the bracket on the rear for the 3 point rear but just don't like it. The top adjusting bar only catches a few threads. That's another job I'll be doing over.

[colsen23153]

I tackled putting the screws in the lower door frame to the frame. I decided to drill and tap 10-32 and use flat head screws. They didn't have the black ones I wanted so these will due until I get the black ones. 114480

I started looking at the doors. I had to read the instructions for a third time before I understood them. I have the hinges in paint today and will start in earnest tomorrow. That's where the Itches come from :)

[HVACMAN]

There are some good videos on you-tube for the door install. Four parts if I remember correctly.

[colsen23153]

There are some good videos on you-tube for the door install. Four parts if I remember correctly.

The videos I found were for Gen 1 and the hardware and procedures are way different. Also a template, worth it's weight in gold, is in the kit to drill the door and body for the hinges. The general information was good and I'll follow that. I like the idea of trimming the door just to "fit" at this point and set the gaps later after it's completely installed. I started today putting the hinges in. Took 3 hours. If that is any indication of how things are going to go I should be working through the night tomorrow night putting in the drivers door. :)

[peterh226]

I have spent a lot of hours on the doors and I feel there are still a bunch more to be spent. Adding washers so the beam twists is a big help. Still is a lot of trial and error with way too many adjustments available. I have final fitting to go but just had had enough bodywork and went on to the chassis. The hood, sides, and radiator fit are another learning experience. Lots of options for learning how to sand, cut, and use fiberglass and resin. Not all bad, but takes a while when you are learning it all new.

[sethmark]

Cliff,
where are you? My family is moving back to VA shortly.

[colsen23153]

Cliff,
where are you? My family is moving back to VA shortly.

Sandy Hook 22 miles west of Richmond

[sethmark]

Not too far away... we’re moving near Roanoke....we lived in chesterfield for a while.

[colsen23153]

It's been over a month since my last entry. Since then I have over 20 hours working on just the drivers door. When you think you are done sanding, think again. It's a never ending process.
I also took a break and worked on my punch list items. That list doesn't seem to get smaller.

[sethmark]

I feel your pain brother. I have just now gotten both doors and trunk lid open and close. It was a lot of work. If I were to do it again, I bet you I could do it in two hours. But the first time is abysmal.

[colsen23153]

I feel your pain brother. I have just now gotten both doors and trunk lid open and close. It was a lot of work. If I were to do it again, I bet you I could do it in two hours. But the first time is abysmal.

Great progress. Question: Did you just sand to get the doors and trunk lid to fit or did you rough cut most of it off first?

[sethmark]

The first one I snuck on with a DA sander. After that I went with a angle grinder to get it close. Then DA.

[FF33rod]

Same - angle grinder with 40 grit flap disk, be careful that sucker will destroy anything it touches....

[colsen23153]

Thank you both. I was leaning to go with the angle grinder for the other door and trunk. I was just using a sander and it takes so long.

[sethmark]

No.... not a 4.5” grinder, a 1/4” die grinder with a 3” pad.

[AJT '33]

Thank you both. I was leaning to go with the angle grinder for the other door and trunk. I was just using a sander and it takes so long.

If your adjusting your door or trunk for gaps on the edges then I would highly suggest a belt sander with a 60 grit belt, this way its straight and uniform. It will go fast so be very careful. Grinders can give you a wavy edge if your not careful or "destroy" the edge as FF33Rod mentioned. And if your adjusting your edges for gaps, remember that 1/4" and 1/8" tape will be your best friends to make sure you aren't guessing how much material to remove.
116642
I placed blue tape on the body side so I knew where the body edge/corner really was, then I went ahead and laid down 1/4" wide tape from the blue tape edge onto the door, this sets the real gap. Then I laid another run of 1/4" tape beside that one on the door side and removed the one that set the gap, the second one is where I would need to remove material to. This keeps the lines straight and true to the body. Have fun!!
116643 This is the trunk after belt sanding, the gap looks big but it isn't, between the 2 coats of primer, base coat and three coats of clear, it closes in nice and tight fast.

[FF33rod]

I have a couple of these t-bar style sanders from a previous hobby, thought they would be great to make sure edges were straight....

http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr6170.php

[sethmark]

If your adjusting your door or trunk for gaps on the edges then I would highly suggest a belt sander with a 60 grit belt, this way its straight and uniform. It will go fast so be very careful. Grinders can give you a wavy edge if your not careful or "destroy" the edge as FF33Rod mentioned. And if your adjusting your edges for gaps, remember that 1/4" and 1/8" tape will be your best friends to make sure you aren't guessing how much material to remove.
116642
I placed blue tape on the body side so I knew where the body edge/corner really was, then I went ahead and laid down 1/4" wide tape from the blue tape edge onto the door, this sets the real gap. Then I laid another run of 1/4" tape beside that one on the door side and removed the one that set the gap, the second one is where I would need to remove material to. This keeps the lines straight and true to the body. Have fun!!
116643 This is the trunk after belt sanding, the gap looks big but it isn't, between the 2 coats of primer, base coat and three coats of clear, it closes in nice and tight fast.

what did you use to fill when the gap was over?

[AJT '33]

what did you use to fill when the gap was over?

If there was too big a gap, anything over an eighth of an inch I simply added some fiberglass to the face of the edge, made it flush front and back and then started over with the taping until I got the 1/4" gap I wanted. For under an eighth, I used my rage to build it out, it also depended where it was, on the front edge on the drivers side I used fiberglass knowing that I wanted a stronger corner.

[colsen23153]

Well I finished the doors and moved on to the trunk. I put the weatherstrip on then cut off about 1/8-1/4" from the bottom. Sanded all the sides and it fits but the center of the trunk on the sides is about 1/4" proud of the body side. 117231 I can push it down to rest on the weatherstrip so I don't think that is what is holding it up. It sits flush on the top and bottom but bowed in the center.

Did any of you had this problem and if so what corrected it?
Thanks,
Cliff

[JOP33]

Well I finished the doors and moved on to the trunk. I put the weatherstrip on then cut off about 1/8-1/4" from the bottom. Sanded all the sides and it fits but the center of the trunk on the sides is about 1/4" proud of the body side. 117231 I can push it down to rest on the weatherstrip so I don't think that is what is holding it up. It sits flush on the top and bottom but bowed in the center.

Did any of you had this problem and if so what corrected it?
Thanks,
Cliff

Some have used Tim Whittaker's Side Stiffeners to help with this issue. Others have drilled holes through the inner wall of the trunk and then glassed the top to the bottom to add strength and rigidity. I am sure there are other fixes to this challenge that many other builders have used as well, but it does tend to be known issue.

[progmgr1]

Yeah, I'm in the midst of dealing with a potato chip shaped trunk lid. My approach is a steel tube frame that will be bonded into a slot I cut in the trunk lid. I'll use a combination of screws and washers/spacers to coerce the lid into the right shape before bonding the parts together with HSRF. 117234117235The frame also gives me a place to attach the Mazda 3 hinges that I'm using instead of the FFR hoop hinges.

[AJT '33]

Well I finished the doors and moved on to the trunk. I put the weatherstrip on then cut off about 1/8-1/4" from the bottom. Sanded all the sides and it fits but the center of the trunk on the sides is about 1/4" proud of the body side. 117231 I can push it down to rest on the weatherstrip so I don't think that is what is holding it up. It sits flush on the top and bottom but bowed in the center.

Did any of you had this problem and if so what corrected it?
Thanks,
Cliff

Had a similar issue, had about 3/8", send a note to Tony Z and they sent me a new trunk lid that fit perfect.
117242 Prior to receiving a new trunk lid.

[tony]

It sucks having to make that very custom part for a flaw in molds at FFR. I'm almost to the trunk lid myself and fear it'll bow just like others.

[sethmark]

It sucks having to make that very custom part for a flaw in molds at FFR. I'm almost to the trunk lid myself and fear it'll bow just like others.
Mine fits well. Fiberglass is fickle....

[FF33rod]

Just did the first fit (no gaps) of the trunk last weekend. It appears to be the right shape all around (unlike the doors). However, I have the Tim Whittaker reinforcement parts that I will be adding anyway to give overall better robustness.

Steve

[progmgr1]

Mine is a Gen 1 Hot Rod, so maybe this is an issue that FFR addressed in the Gen 2 bodies?
Keith

[colsen23153]

Sent email to Tony Z. to see if I can get a replacement. Fingers crossed.

[FF33rod]

Sent email to Tony Z. to see if I can get a replacement. Fingers crossed.

Don't expect immediate response. Tony is OOO, at SEMA I imagine. Chris and I are still waiting for him to get back to us regarding the striker location problem we have with the Gen2 chassis mated with everything else Gen1.

[colsen23153]

Do you believe in the tooth fairy? I some time think there is a FFR fairy. After sanding the uneven top edge of the trunk lid then drilling and installing the rivnuts, I put the lid back on and almost all of the bow is gone. I can't explain it because I had it off and on many times before. I did notice that as I drilled for the rivnuts I hit a layer of aluminum. Not thick but got metal drill shavings. Maybe because the lid was upside down when drilling it might have stretched out.

Now on to mounting it and finishing putting the aluminum in the trunk.

[colsen23153]

Yeah, I'm in the midst of dealing with a potato chip shaped trunk lid. My approach is a steel tube frame that will be bonded into a slot I cut in the trunk lid. I'll use a combination of screws and washers/spacers to coerce the lid into the right shape before bonding the parts together with HSRF. 117234117235The frame also gives me a place to attach the Mazda 3 hinges that I'm using instead of the FFR hoop hinges.

That looks like a lot of work. But it looks nice.

[1932]

My trunk lid changes hot to cold. Will build some kind of fram.

[progmgr1]

That looks like a lot of work. But it looks nice.

It IS a lot of work, but everything I do requires learning a new skill which (for me) is a big part of the fun of building a car. It means that my build is taking years longer than others. However, the result is that I'll end up with something unique that is exactly what I want and I'll know every corner and fastener. YMMV Keith

[Bgardner]

I recommend adding something for support. lots of ideas from all replies.

The feel is much better when opening and a little reassurance that more movement wont be happening down the road. I am even thinking to do some support side to side. Idea from Progmgr1 would give this support

My steps are now on my build page

117627

[progmgr1]

The front to back bulge was the worst, but I also had some side-to-side warping. A little (1/4") high in the middle both top and bottom, but the PS back corner was 1/2" or more low. I understand that there is a lot of difference from lid to lid, especially on the older cars. So yes, I would suggest a frame all around. Either wood or metal should work fine. It just has to be stiff and able to be bonded to the lid. Keith

[colsen23153]

A follow up from my email to Tony Z. about my trunk lid: Tony replyed a few days after he returned from SEMA and said he was going to send the lid. I emailed him back in a hurry to tell him it was not needed. Great response from Tony.

I finished putting DEI header wrap on the headers. Not so bad a job.

I moved on to installing my windshield. On page 472 of the manual there is a template that shows the exact location of the holes. I looked for that template and could not find it anywhere. I contacted tech. and they said it's part # 33489 in box 16. I searched again but could not find it. Box 16 is the aluminum parts and templates. If it was in that box it would have to be a box over 4' long. I asked them to take a picture of it and send it to me.

I asked on Facebook if anyone else had the template and I didn't receive a yes from anyone. I got responses like it's printed on/in the windshield box or maybe the foam. Nada.

I did put the hard top on to make sure that the holes for the windshield will be covered by the hard top. Here is what that looks like:
117788 117789

It does cover the initial windshield hole markings but WOW! I immediately fell in love with the hard top again. My plan is to first build it as a roadster. Then a year later put the hard top on. I don't think I could last a year without the hard top. Seeing the car at that stage has given me the new enthusiasm I needed to Get'er done!

[sethmark]

The template for the roadster windshield is the gasket.

[colsen23153]

The template for the roadster windshield is the gasket.

Dan @ Tech. also said it's the gasket. I'm disappointed as what is shown in the manual would take all the guessing out of it. The holes in the gasket are larger then the 1/4" bolt. I will "measure twice and drill once."

[sethmark]

It’s a pain. I had to widen the holes a bit each time. And I measured many times. Be aware that the bolts suck the cowl up to the windshield frame.

[FF33rod]

... WOW! I immediately fell in love with the hard top again. My plan is to first build it as a roadster. Then a year later put the hard top on. I don't think I could last a year without the hard top. Seeing the car at that stage has given me the new enthusiasm I needed to Get'er done!

Yup, I felt the same when I did that last week...

[Bgardner]

It’s a pain. I had to widen the holes a bit each time. And I measured many times. Be aware that the bolts suck the cowl up to the windshield frame.

As sethmark states the cowl does get pulled up to windshield as you tighten the nuts. I notched a piece of angle aluminum and shaped it to fit on the underside then epoxied it with the windshield installed, then I epoxied a piece of flat stock over the notches to hold the shape. When i remove the windshield the cowl holds its shape.
117801
117802
117803
117804

[colsen23153]

While attempting to install my windshield today I ran into a problem that is caused when having a defroster installed. They say at the end of installing the windshield that if you have a defroster to cut the vent holes now. Well you can't use a air saw to make the cut with the windshield installed. So I went about installing the defroster first. I measured, cut, and installed the complete defroster and defroster duct work. This is where I ran into a problem. With the defroster duct installed the center bolt for the windshield strikes the defroster duct. I could not find anything in the manual or the defroster instructions telling me to avoid the problem. So I had to uninstall the defroster duct work to get the windshield to sit flush with the dash again.

The problem is simple to correct. Two solutions. Cut the center bolt before installing it into the base of the windshield (don't cut the hex end) just long enough that it can take the 10mm nut and washer but not longer or get a 6mm button head screw about 1" long and insert it from underneath before installing the defroster duct. I am going to try the second choice. I will let you know after I finished what the length turned out to be.

UPDATE: I used a 6mm pan head bolt 3/4" long. I had to tighten the bolts on either side to "flex" the body so the bolt would catch some threads. Worked fine. Defroster is installed and functional.

Here are some pictures of my progress:

117955 117956 117957

This picture is the top of the defroster duct where the center windshield bolt was hitting. 118143

I made a template out of the flap of the windshield box. I pushed it up against the bolts to get my location. It wasn't exact. I had to widen a few to allow the windshield to fit.

[colsen23153]

On to the headlights. If you think something is going to take you a few minutes add 2 to 4 hours to the estimate. Two things were wrong and one bad part. If using the Ron Francis wiring harness the gauge of the 5 wires that go thru the head light mounting bolt will not fit. The head lights are LED and don't require that heavy a wire. You could use lesser gauge wires or drill out the mounting bolt for the wires to fit. I chose to drill the bolt. Use these drill bits in succession with oil. 19/64, 5/16 and 21/64. They will just fit if the wires are not twisted. The second thing that was wrong is the color code on the lamp as what is in the manual. I just used a battery and alligator clips to determine the colors to use.
118149
I chose to wire it up for the DRL. I think it looks cool. To do this you need to supply +12 to the red wire on the lamp. I used the RF parking light wire. Back in the cab I cut the brown wire coming from the front harness and wired it to the electric choke wire. This turned on the white led bar and allowed the it to change to the directional amber.
118152
The bad part was the head light switch. It didn't switch on the head lights. I just happen to have a second one in my spare parts box and that fixed the problem.

To finish up the day I worked on lowering the front to the required height of 4.5". I was able to get it to just under 6" and called it a day. I'll look at it again after the holiday.

Happy Thanksgiving y'all!

[sethmark]

I extended the headlight harness out of the bolt into a weatherpak connection. Same pain in the butt. Nice job.

[colsen23153]

I could not resist working on the car to find out why the 4 way flashers were not working. First thing, in the manual it says to cut the horn and flasher leads from the steering column. Why would you not want those functions to work from the steering column? Beyond me.

I found out the flasher socket in the Ron Francis is not making connection on one side. I bypassed the socket with some wires and spade connectors. Now they work. That is the second problem I found with the Ron Francis wiring harness. I'm not confident of that part from FFR!

When wiring the headlights to use the daytime running light, the front lights will not flash unless the key is on. I don't know if that is a problem with state inspection. I will check with my son as he is a state inspector.

Yup they have to work with the key off. Well I'll have to use my electronics background to solve this one. A few diodes. Parts on order.

On the head light there are the green and red wires. The red is for the DRL (white) and green for directional (amber). However for the amber to work 12 volts needs to be applied to the red wire also. So I wired up some diodes to both allow voltage from the green wire but block that voltage from feeding back thru the brown wire which I changed in the wiring harness to the electric choke circuit, which was connected to the red wire. The diodes I got were off Ebay 6A2. A bit over kill.

Connect the two negative sides of the diodes together (the side marked with the gray line) and to the red wire after disconnecting the brown wire. The other end of one diode connects with the green and blue wire. The other end of the other diode connects to the brown wire that was disconnected from the red wire. It should look like the pictures. Disconnect the battery first!
118437 118438

The 4 way flashers now work with key off/on and directional working fine.

[sethmark]

Cliff,
With the Virginia registration replica laws, your requirements for inspection are only those of a 1933. It would definitely be worth reviewing the requirements for registration now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26749-2017-Virginia-Registration-I-have-plates!!!

https://www.dmv.virginia.gov/vehicles/#reconstructed.asp

[colsen23153]

I have been working the past three days, setting the correct ride height. First try I could not get the front lower then about 5 3/4". Now I have been under the belief that the bottom set of mounting holes were for a standard car ride and the upper was for setting the race height. I found out that the lower holes are for the truck and upper for the 33. I mounted EVERYTHING in the lower holes. So now that the car is almost complete I have to change all the control arms, upper/lower control arms, etc after everything is mounted and in the way. I changed the front and without adjusting the springs yet, I am just above 4". I ran into a few problems with the rear. It's 4 link and I was able to get the upper control arms moved after removing the back half of the exhaust. Also the e-brake cables were in the way. I could not get the lower control arms until I removed the drive shaft. After that it sat down and is a tad lower then 5". I'm measuring from the frame to ground. Now to adjust the shocks and I'll be all done. The drive shaft is still hiting the frame when the frame is lifted and the rear droops. Not a good thing to have. Second thing I noticed was the camber of the passenger side is way off. I had adjusted the front end when it was much higher. So now I have to redo the front end adjustments.

As I said, I'm almost ready to put the car on the road (title, reg. plates). Before I do I'm reading the instructions from page one and making sure I did everything correctly.

[sethmark]

Those measurements jive with mine. I don’t think it’s reasonable to get the car as low as they want it. I additionally wound up with the coil overs in the lower position upfront so as to improve the control arm angle. Honestly, I don’t think it’s a simple as set it and forget it with these things. There are simply too many variables.

[HVACMAN]

Cliff,
With the Virginia registration replica laws, your requirements for inspection are only those of a 1933. It would definitely be worth reviewing the requirements for registration now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26749-2017-Virginia-Registration-I-have-plates!!!

https://www.dmv.virginia.gov/vehicles/#reconstructed.asp

I am pretty sure Texas is the same. There were no 4-way flashers in 1933.

[1932]

Gen 1 with tilt FR, i have 4way.

[colsen23153]

In setting the ride height, I found the rear shocks had to have the adjusting slider almost at the top of the black threaded part. I looked at some photos from the build school and they have the "C" clip in the upper position. So under the car I go again and with some cleaver jacking I moved the clip up and now the adjuster ring is mid way.
118708 I like it this way.

I adjusted the ride height again and now it's 5" rear, 4.5" front. Just right.

The front passenger side camber was because one of the lower control arms was off just a bit. A full turn or two on the rear arm. A quick measurement with my incidence meter and it's about 6 degrees. OK for the ride to the shop for the alignment.

My next two projects are to install the water fall with the roll bar cut outs and finish with the dash wiring and heater duct. I'm installing a switch to allow my trans to lock the converter.

[sethmark]

Funny how we all wind up at the same conclusions. I did the same with the rear coil overs. My
ride height is slightly higher, but not much. My car will be at my shop in danville by New Years. Hopefully we can swap notes!

[colsen23153]

I thought about putting the Transmission Tunnel Cover in but it was too damn cold and damp. I think I have it figured out. The grommets that are on some of the cable bundles are not for the 33. They are used to go through the bulkheads of other models (roadster). So they get cut off and I will reuse them when I make my "C" cut in the tunnel top cover. Should be simple. I already changed the Lokar linkage to give me extra room. I have the gas pedal already mounted but I gave it some space for the cover. Hopefully the weather will be a bit warmer tomorrow. I am anxious to get this phase of the build over so I can contact the VA. State police and get myself a title.

[colsen23153]

When I started to rivet the driveshaft aluminum cover I noticed a scraped ring around the driveshaft. Yup it's hitting the floor. It must have started after I adjusted the ride height. So I'm back some 5 months where I'm working on the trans mount and engine mounts. I changed to 4 link suspension to take away any axle angle questions. That was a few months ago. So it can only be the trans mount or engine mounts. I asked for help from FFR but they said to jack up the trans mount. You might remember all the problems I had with the exhaust. The trans mount/ engine mounts and exhaust system all interact with each other. Change one you change all 3. If I go up any more with the trans mount I will have the trans pointing up. It was level before. So I am at a confusing stand still now until I come up with a solution. I don't know where to go from here.

[peterh226]

When I started to rivet the driveshaft aluminum cover I noticed a scraped ring around the driveshaft. Yup it's hitting the floor. It must have started after I adjusted the ride height. So I'm back some 5 months where I'm working on the trans mount and engine mounts. I changed to 4 link suspension to take away any axle angle questions. That was a few months ago. So it can only be the trans mount or engine mounts. I asked for help from FFR but they said to jack up the trans mount. You might remember all the problems I had with the exhaust. The trans mount/ engine mounts and exhaust system all interact with each other. Change one you change all 3. If I go up any more with the trans mount I will have the trans pointing up. It was level before. So I am at a confusing stand still now until I come up with a solution. I don't know where to go from here.

I had a similar issue with a Chevy and TKO with the 3-link rear. I ended up with limit straps to prevent contact, then tweaked to transmission mount to get it as low as possible. So, at this point I think I can get everything OK. Still adjusting ride height and Pinion angle, but I'm quite close.

Check out this post (#150):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31910-SS383-Build-33-Hot-Rod-1134&p=391052&viewfull=1#post391052

[colsen23153]

Well it has been some time since my last post. It's been cold but with the change in the weather I have been able to accomplish many things on my to do list. FFR says the drive shaft will hit the floor under the trans. tunnel so I'm not going to do anything now until it become a problem.

The trans tunnel is in. It's not flush with the aluminum between the firewall and floor. I tried every way possible to get to flush but no luck. I installed the drivers seat with the jeep slider. What a job getting all the holes to align. I took care of some wiring that involves the A/C and EFI. I used a SPDT relay to wire up the WOT signal from the EFI to kill the A/C. Also turning on the radiator fan when the A/C compressor comes on. After putting the trans cover on I cleaned up some messy wiring. The dash is back in. I worked on the drivers door latch. It was working but not smooth enough for me. I found out if I tightened the latch to the door the latch would bind. I had to leave it just a bit loose.

So tomorrow I'm installing the passenger seat and the waterfall.

I'm also getting the paper work ready to send to DMV next week. I can't wait until it's registered, insured and has plates on. I started the motor up just for the hell of it! Sounds great.

[colsen23153]

Today I worked on the drivers side of the trans tunnel. It was not laying flush up against the firewall and floor. I cut off the piece that would mate to the floor and fabricated a aluminum piece to cover the side. I'm using Gorilla tape to join all the seams around that area of the trans tunnel. Looks better now and I will only know what happened there as it is covered with insulation and carpet.

At build school they made a bracket for mounting the accelerator pedal that raises it a inch or so above the floor. I'm going to remount it with a coupling nut. Should be just as good.

Tomorrow I'll lay down the insulation and get that damn waterfall in. Any suggestions on how to locate the roll bar holes?

[FF33rod]

There are a number of build threads with ideas on how to locate the roll bar holes. The easiest IMO is a low tech solution I've seen used a number of times in threads dating back years. Have a look at post 71 of Tom's build for his wife https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34246-Marsha-s-Gen-1-33-build-by-Wallace18/page2

Steve

[colsen23153]

There are a number of build threads with ideas on how to locate the roll bar holes. The easiest IMO is a low tech solution I've seen used a number of times in threads dating back years. Have a look at post 71 of Tom's build for his wife https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34246-Marsha-s-Gen-1-33-build-by-Wallace18/page2

Steve

Good idea! I'll use that method. Thanks Steve.

[AJT '33]

May I also suggest you get a pair of these 3" Grommet Seals from Seals-It (https://sealsit.com/product/3-grommet-seal/), I will be using one that has a 1-1/4" hole in it, this way it stretch around the pipe and will cover any over sized hole and it will also seal around the pipe, keeping the finish clean. When I install the waterfall I will slide the grommet on the roll bar first and then align and bend the ring plate into place onto the waterfall (protecting the paint on the waterfall with tape, then go ahead and screw it down onto the waterfall.
123204

[JimLev]

Thanks for that bit if info AJT, I just found them on Amazon w/free shipping.

[AJT '33]

Thanks for that bit if info AJT, I just found them on Amazon w/free shipping.

No worries, I'll be prepping and painting the aluminum trim on mine satin black to match the water fall.

[colsen23153]

It has been a few weeks since my last real progress post. I have been taking care of all the little things that have to be done to complete the car. I finally took care of the EFI wiring for the fan control and the A/C kill function. I can say the wiring is done!

At build school the instructor made a gas pedal bracket which raises the pedal off the floor by a few inches. I mentioned it a few posts ago. I used 1/4-20 coupling nuts to duplicate this bracket. Worked out fine. Gas pedal is now just below the brake pedal. 123616 123617

I also finished putting down the sound/heat pads. 123618

I think I'm a week away from having the car derivable. Small things like mirrors, seats & carpet. So I'm going to concentrate filling out the documents for VDOT and sending them off.

[sethmark]

With regard to the process, I submitted my paperwork January 25. They issued title about a week ago and I got a call from the state police vin inspector today. I will be fully registered and licensed tomorrow 3/5.

I sent them a check for about $1400 for taxes, invoices for complete kit, motor, transmission, and rear end and a Carfax for the salvage title on the engine that was the donor for my car. There’s a good thread with Virginia registration information that is exactly correct. I did not have any additional paperwork to do, no additional fees to pay....Just had to be super patient.

[colsen23153]

With regard to the process, I submitted my paperwork January 25. They issued title about a week ago and I got a call from the state police vin inspector today. I will be fully registered and licensed tomorrow 3/5.

I sent them a check for about $1400 for taxes, invoices for complete kit, motor, transmission, and rear end and a Carfax for the salvage title on the engine that was the donor for my car. There’s a good thread with Virginia registration information that is exactly correct. I did not have any additional paperwork to do, no additional fees to pay....Just had to be super patient.

Good to know. I'll look for the Virginia registration and follow it. You just have a vin # and registration. Now you have to get the plate? When did you get your insurance? How much did you cay the car weigh?

[sethmark]

Here’s the thread:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22546-Finished-Virginia-registration-here-s-how-it-went

I have registration and title complete. The officer that visited today verified Vin on the frame and on the motor. He submits his paperwork to Richmond online today and they will process it on Monday morning. I can go pick up license plates after 2 o’clock Monday. I have insurance through Hagerty. They insure 4 of my cars and my trailer. The car costs about $300 insured for 40k.

The car weighs 2272.

[colsen23153]

Thanks sethmark just the info I needed. I'll get started today.

[sethmark]

You’re most welcome. If you have any questions, send me a PM or give me a call.

[colsen23153]

Major step accomplished today. I sent off the forms to DMV and now I wait. Actually I need to put in the carpet, bolt the seats in and install the mirrors.

[sethmark]

Congratulations!!

[colsen23153]

How did you guys bend and attach the inside door panels? Is that double sided tape in the box? Use that?

[sethmark]

Bent with my knee. Attached with trim screws in kit. Pre drill for ease.

[colsen23153]

Bent with my knee. Attached with trim screws in kit. Pre drill for ease.

I didn't see the trim screws. I'll check box 9 anain. Thanks

The inside of the doors is very thin. Rivnuts would make a mess. If I don't find the trim screws I'll get them locally.

[sethmark]

They were in a baggie with hood bumpers.

[cob427sc]

I used rivnuts (10-32 I think) but bought the rivnuts made for plastic and fiberglass. They expand much larger and seem to hold fine. Also used them for the waterfall.

[colsen23153]

They were in a baggie with hood bumpers.

Found them!

Put them in Saturday. Looking GOOOOOOD!

124043

[colsen23153]

I used rivnuts (10-32 I think) but bought the rivnuts made for plastic and fiberglass. They expand much larger and seem to hold fine. Also used them for the waterfall.

I have used the 10-32 rivnuts for the dash. The inside panel is thick and hard to shape to the inside door. I'll work on it tomorrow and use the #8 screws FFR provided. If they pull out I'll just use the same mounting holes for the rixnuts for plastic.

[colsen23153]

Yesterday I worked on the waterfall and rollbar. I used the suggestion from FF33rod and used the method by wallace18. Namely drilling holes in a piece of plywood strip that fits the roll bar width. I put that on top of the rear of the car and secured it with straps. I marked the board and car with markers so I could remove it and install the waterfall. I just used a felt tip marker to follow the inside of the holes and mark the waterfall. I cut the holes with my reciprocal saw. I then used a tool like a Dremal sander to finish it off.

124054 124055

They didn't ship me the quick release clips, they sent me door latch levers instead. A email to FFR and the correct part will ship next week.

[Aircontroller]

Sorry, I wasn't able to see the attachments.



Yesterday I worked on the waterfall and rollbar. I used the suggestion from FF33rod and used the method by wallace18. Namely drilling holes in a piece of plywood strip that fits the roll bar width. I put that on top of the rear of the car and secured it with straps. I marked the board and car with markers so I could remove it and install the waterfall. I just used a felt tip marker to follow the inside of the holes and mark the waterfall. I cut the holes with my reciprocal saw. I then used a tool like a Dremal sander to finish it off.

124044 124045

They didn't ship me the quick release clips, they sent me door latch levers instead. A email to FFR and the correct part will ship next week.

[wallace18]

I like your 1 board method vs my 2 boards. I will do that in the future. Great job!

[colsen23153]

I'm trying to install the Right Cockpit Rear upper cover panel and I can't get it to fit even without the weather striping on it. Anybody else have the same problem?

124231

[AJT '33]

I'm trying to install the Right Cockpit Rear upper cover panel and I can't get it to fit even without the weather striping on it. Anybody else have the same problem?

124231

I will be doing mine tonight and fully expect to have to trim it to fit correctly, I will post tomorrow if we get them in. Which seal did you use on the edge as they don't show which one to use?? I am assuming right now its the same seal as the top of the trunk vertical plates?
124259 This is the one I am thinking of and cannot remember how much I have left.

[colsen23153]

I will be doing mine tonight and fully expect to have to trim it to fit correctly, I will post tomorrow if we get them in. Which seal did you use on the edge as they don't show which one to use?? I am assuming right now its the same seal as the top of the trunk vertical plates?
124259 This is the one I am thinking of and cannot remember how much I have left.

AJT'33 I can see the difference between my car and yours. As in the picture from the book the piece fits over the door hinge. On Gen II that cross bar goes below the top of the door hinge.
124262
So I believe yours will fit. I ran out of weather striping also. I would think it is the same used in the trunk.

I have a message into FFR tech. Dan about this problem. Looks like they will have to make a different piece.

Dan got back with me about this piece. It's only for Gen I not Gen II and they don't have a replacement part. It's a shame they didn't go thru all the parts and see what has to change for the Gen II.

Cliff

[colsen23153]

In post #185 I mentioned that I sent off the necessary paperwork and check to VDMV. I was so excited that in a few weeks after that I would have the '33 on the road. No such luck. 3 days after DMV received my package the Governor closed all DMV's. So I am placed on indefinite hold. I completed everything to get it on the road except the carpet and seats. The seats have already been in. All that is needed is to cut the holes in the carpet and bolt them in.

My birthday is 4/12 and I was hoping to have it done them.

Life has a way of changing everything. I have to fight myself to work on the car. I just don't see the reason now.

[sethmark]

That sucks!!!! Pardon my
language. I didn’t realize the DMV was shut down. So sorry!!!!

[JOP33]

In post #185 I mentioned that I sent off the necessary paperwork and check to VDMV. I was so excited that in a few weeks after that I would have the '33 on the road. No such luck. 3 days after DMV received my package the Governor closed all DMV's. So I am placed on indefinite hold. I completed everything to get it on the road except the carpet and seats. The seats have already been in. All that is needed is to cut the holes in the carpet and bolt them in.

My birthday is 4/12 and I was hoping to have it done them.

Life has a way of changing everything. I have to fight myself to work on the car. I just don't see the reason now.

Not sure about your local municipalities, but here you can get temp tags through the tax office...that would at least get you legal enough to drive it around for 30 days or so. I am sure you have exhausted all options on your end at this point, but just thought I would throw it out there. Either way, keep your head up and moving forward...with my build I found that unplanned set-backs or scheduling issues usually happened for a reason and (for the most part) worked to my advantage in the scheme of the entire build. With that being said, I also understand the frustration of planning for something and things not working out that way - I have registered (and paid for) my car to be at the last two Good Guys Shows in Fort Worth and missed both, last year I was naive enough to think we were closer than what we were and then this year weather and COVID...try not to get too discouraged!

[colsen23153]

Found out today that Virginia DMV opens the 15th of next month. I better finish my punch list of remaining things to do before then.

As a side note: My son and his wife came over to borrow my other car for tomorrow. His wife hasn't seen my car in about 6 months and wanted to see it. After a short while she said " Can I hear it?" Well as any good father inlaw I asked my son to start r up. She got all excited and asked when she can get a ride. As we were talking I rested my hand on the garage wall. Holy smokes! The walls were vibrating and it was just idling. Going to be a ripper!

[colsen23153]

Well Well Well. DMV opened yesterday and They called me. They started to process my paper work and found that on their forms I put my wife as co-owner but I was the only one on the certificate of origin/bill of sale from FFR. I had to redo the forms and email them back to them. She got them and said no problem and would call about the sales tax. That call came today. That was a bit more then I expected but the check I sent for doing the paper work was out dated so that was in that sum.

Next she said she would be sending me back my other paper work and a "agent" from DMV will call in a day or two to set up an appointment to inspect my car. After that I'll be issued my title then I can register it and get my plates. So the long wait is almost over.

Now my problem. I have rheumatoid arthritis and I am having a big flare up. I have to finish putting the carpet and bolting the seats in. Also hang a few mirrors. I hope I get better so I can complete it before the inspection. I should and if needed I'll get my son to help.

So there is light at the end of the tunnel. The light has been turned off by the virus but now it's back on.

[colsen23153]

How have other people getting insurance on the 33? I have Nationwide for home and auto. I asked for a quote for a "agreed upon" amount. What followed wa a series of questions. Does it have a roll cage? Are you going to any racing events, drags, auto cross, etc. Well I planned to take it to the drags a time or two so I said yes. BIG MISTAKE. They flagged the quote as no liability and the comp/coll would be done by Hagerty.

I'm not driving a car without liability. I don't think it's legal in Virginia.

What insurance company should I be looking at that allows an occasional trip to the drags?

Thanks,
Cliff

[sethmark]

Hagerty. Super cheap, excellent company. I have 4 cars and a trailer with them.

[JOP33]

I used Midwest Classic. They beat Hagerty's pricing, were able to cover the vehicle during the build process and they didn't place an annual mileage limit rider on the policy. Ask for Robbin.

https://www.midwestclassicinsurance.com/

[colsen23153]

I am missing something here. I used Hagerty online quote and it said my vehicle didn't qualify for liability. Are you guys driving around without liability?

[sethmark]

Absolutely not. Make a phone call. There’s something missing from their online system
apparently. They have insured my f5 cobra and the hot rod plus all the classics I’ve ever bought.

[colsen23153]

Thanks sethmark. I will have to call them in the morning.

Did you tell them that you might take it to the drags?

I see it's listed as 2019. Is it registered as 2019 or 1933? (inspection question)

Thanks again

[sethmark]

I didn’t offer anything that wasn’t asked. ;) I’ll check title for specifics. It’s NOT AN antique.

[colsen23153]

The reason is " *Risk unacceptable for the program" . I am given 60 days to dispute it. What a kick in my gut. I worked this far to come this close to finish it that I can't believe this has happened.

I know others have their cars insured by Hagerty so I think I said something which turned them off.
Here are a few:

Title has F5R100118HR year 1933 make Factory five vehicle body 2D sedan. What is wrong with that? what needs to be changed?

Next they asked for pictures and I gave them the 4 required but by mistake I gave them pictures of the motor and inertia. I didn't find out that the last two were only needed if it was modified. Well you have options on which motor to install and my motor is a sbc from Blue print. On second thought I should not have sent them the last two pictures. That might have caused the modified box. I have repeated to their many questions that it is not modified.

Next I put my 50 year old son on the policy. He would only drive it once or twice a year so I thought he should be on the policy as an occasional driver.
When they checked for any claim that found out my sons wife is a terrible driver with many accidents. I said ok Take my son off the policy.

Not a minute passed before I was emailed the rejection letter.

I am given 60 days to question this rejection and I will.

I am devastated to be at this point of the build and have this problem that keeps me from driving it.

Any help. ideas. suggestions would be appreciated.

Cliff Olsen 1118HR

[JOP33]

Cliff have you tried Midwest Classic? See post #207

[NAZ]

I have agreed value at $95K underwritten by Hagarty through my Farmers agent. My car is titled as a 1933 Ford with AZ and my agent knows I built the car to race. My coverage ends when on the track but they cover it in the pit area. It ain't cheap but I'm covered up to the agreed value if it gets wrecked or stolen.

[colsen23153]

Cliff have you tried Midwest Classic? See post #207

Not yet. I'm trying to work this out. I have quotes in with Grundy and another company that looks promising.

The Hartford, that insures my other cars I was trying to add this through Hagerty cancelled my umbrella policy, just because this car in " in the household"

[fostia]

Not yet. I'm trying to work this out. I have quotes in with Grundy and another company that looks promising.

The Hartford, that insures my other cars I was trying to add this through Hagerty cancelled my umbrella policy, just because this car in " in the household"

I have American Modern. Costs me about $500 a year in California. I'd recommend them. You should just go straight to business and get yourself on the policy for what you need. If you want to add people or other shenanigans later, do a policy mod once you get it. There are tons of insurance companies out there, you'll get it insured with one of them. Someone wants your money.

[sethmark]

AMIG insured my F5 cobra. Worth a try.

[colsen23153]

fostia, That is one of the companies I' trying now. Takes 3 business days to get a answer. Fingers crossed.

[JimLev]

Here's the initial quote I received from Midwest Classic (thanks for the info JOP).
He did say if it gets registered in the year it was built the premium would be higher.
I'm not ready to get it on the road, just wanted a ball park number, which I told Robbin.


Collector Vehicle Premium Estimate.
Thank you for the opportunity to provide an estimate of coverage for your collector vehicle.
Below is our initial estimate of your annual premium based on the information provided to us.
Please note, additional information and underwriting review is required to bind coverage.

Mileage Tier: Up to 5000 Limits Deductible Premium Agreed Value: $50,000.00
1933 Other X - Stock or Original Coverage $100,000 / $300,000 / $50,000 $34.00
Bodily Injury/Property Damage Limit $1000 $7.00 Medical Payments
Rejected Uninsured / Underinsured Motorist BI/PD -Non-stacked $0 Deductible $135.00 Collision
$0 Deductible $190.00 Comprehensive Totals: $366.00
Limits Deductible Premium
Taxes and Fees Coverage $34.95 Towing and Labor (TLC) - Platinum $500 $0.00
Spare Parts Totals: $34.95
This is a premium estimate and no coverage is implied or in force until you are so advised by American Collectors Insurance.
Additional information and underwriting review is required. Please call 1-800-360-2277 to complete your application.
Annual Premium Estimate: $400.95

**For Collector Vehicle’s Only** The mileage tier above is the maximum amount of miles that the collector vehicle may be driven based on the annual mileage that you have indicated.
Other mileage options are available. Please note that the 7,500 mile tier is our "Freedom" tier option which allows up to 7,500 miles per year but also allows for occasional general use.

[colsen23153]

I have 4 quotes in now Two are rejected and no word on the other two. Hopefully by the end of this week this part will be over. Nothing, nothing, not a single part of this build went without a hitch.

It is now Tuesday. I found out that Hagerty rejected me because I said I would take the car to the drags sometimes and auto crosses. That marked a non removable box on my application that will not allow me to apply for Hagerty insurance for 6 months. Can you believe that! So that's out but I have two others that keep asking questions. The one I hope to get, American Modern, said that the fact it is a kit car it goes under MODIFIED! But they didn't reject me yet. I'm just waiting for the shoe to drop. Now another 2 to 3 days before they get back to me.

Anyone wanting to get one of these cars should check with their insurance company first.

[colsen23153]

Today was my lucky day. After going through all the anguish this week in getting approved for insurance I got approved by the American Modern by my Hartford auto insurance. My agent worked with me after Hagerty turned me down. I was actually approved by Grundy also but I didn't go with them. As soon as I got the call I rushed to the DMV and I now have plates also!!!!!!

I still have about 1/2 days work to get it road worthy so by tomorrow night I'll take my first ride.

Saturday afternoon I drove 22 miles to the auto shop. Then inspected the car, did a front end alignment and filled the A/C with freon. So now I have a good driving car with A/C. Things we found in a hair line crack in the brake reservoir. I'll check with FF5 to see if they can replace it.

I now have a driver that might get me going again on this build. What a trip.

[colsen23153]

This is a picture for my throttle and TV linkage. 131025

I have a 383/TCI 700R4 with Sniper EFI from BP. I am having a problem deciding if the TV cable is adjusted correctly. The trans seams to shift too soon. Also the trans is slipping until I reach about 2300RPM.The instructions for setting the TV cable says that if this is shifting too soon the cable is loose. But if I auto adjust the cable it is set correct. You can see the slack at the throttle linkage pin and at the cable clamp.

I have it working. The TV cable had too much slack causing the clutches in the trans to slip badly. I hope I didn't do much damage. As you can see in this photo
131026

I added a compression spring before the cable clamp and took out ALL the slack and then some to make sure the cable was engaging the "hook" in the trans. Shifts good now and at the proper speeds. Car drives 100% better.

Warning: anyone with a 700R4, make sure there is NO slack in the TV cable. I drove about 60 miles before I resolved the problem. I'm going to do some heavy launches tomorrow to see how badly I burned up the clutches.

DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU DRIVE IT.

[sethmark]

I haven’t run a TV cable in a long time, but I remember it being a plug and mash the gas to the floor arrangement. It would auto adjust. Is that not the case?

[colsen23153]

I haven’t run a TV cable in a long time, but I remember it being a plug and mash the gas to the floor arrangement. It would auto adjust. Is that not the case?

So long that there is tension on the cable ALL the time. The mash it just adjusts the length.

There are many youtubes on the subject. Where on other trans this cable is referred as a "kick down" and downshifts to passing gear. On a 700R4 this adjusts the pressure valve that holds the clutches, determines the shift points and other things. That's why it's proper adjustment is critical.

[colsen23153]

131182

Here is a link for my Youtube video of my first real road trip.

https://youtu.be/4SOD8v9dKcg

[sethmark]

So cool! Lady even got her picture!!!

[RoadRacer]

Very nice!!

What is that string or whatever flapping around by front wheel? I noticed from 2:30 onwards

131209

[colsen23153]

Very nice!!

What is that string or whatever flapping around by front wheel? I noticed from 2:30 onwards

131209

It's a key tag with a note to NOT use synthetic oil, tied on the dip stick. It is a 383 SBC from BluePrint and it's now running on break in oil. BluePrint recommends not to use synthetic. I need that reminder because I use Mobil 1 in all my other cars.
Thanks for asking.

[sread]

couldn't tell for sure but that looked like a Hess gas station - my very first job was pumping gas at the Hess in Woodbridge, VA

[colsen23153]

couldn't tell for sure but that looked like a Hess gas station - my very first job was pumping gas at the Hess in Woodbridge, VA

It was a BP AMOCO station. I always try to stop in one of their stations. A habit I got from my Dad.

[Dduty]

Hey Cliff.
Congratulations! Looks like fun! I hope to be doing that soon.
I went a different route on my build. Suspension, steering, firewall then did all the bodywork. The body is at the paint shop now and I’m working on the rest till it gets back.
Denny Eastridge from build school

[colsen23153]

Hey Cliff.
Congratulations! Looks like fun! I hope to be doing that soon.
I went a different route on my build. Suspension, steering, firewall then did all the bodywork. The body is at the paint shop now and I’m working on the rest till it gets back.
Denny Eastridge from build school

Good luck. I'm planning on getting some enjoyment out of it while I work getting it in the final configuration. (Hard top, bike fenders, full hood with sides) I'll take a few years before I send it to the body/paint shop.

[colsen23153]

I was having trouble getting the roll bar in. I used a sanding drum to work on the tubes on the frame and the grinder to the ends of the roll bar. I could get each side in by it's self but not together. I posted on Facebook for suggestions. Seams this is a common problem. The remedy was to use Copper Anti-Seize on both parts. Some one said they called FFR and Tony told them to use that. Well it's in but it took a little persuasion.

132052

I tried to sit in the seat and see if my head hit it. No, but if I tilt my head back just a bit it does touch like a head rest only this is steel! I hope I never get rear ended!

[peterh226]

I used a brake hone to smooth out the receiver. Than some emery cloth on the bar and then never seize. Still not sure I ever will get it out again!

[sethmark]

It always makes me feel better to find out I was not the only one. I thought I was going to expire, the first time I tried to get it loose.

[1932]

It's just for looks!

[RoadRacer]

I tried to sit in the seat and see if my head hit it. No, but if I tilt my head back just a bit it does touch like a head rest only this is steel! I hope I never get rear ended!

Not wanting to be controversial, but I'm not fitting mine.. IMO it's a lot more likely to be hit by it then it helping me.

[sethmark]

I’ve built 35 or so tube chassis race cars in my life for a one design dirt track series. With roughly 40 races a year, I get to see how my cars fare in wrecks weekly. Quite a few rollovers, trashed bumpers and nerf bars. I’ve learned 2 lessons. If you survive a roll, you had enough cage. Second, avoid finding out.....

I trust the F5 hoop to be more than nothing in the case of a roll. No more, no less. I cannot hit it sitting, but lord knows I prefer to not find out if it will hit me if the time comes.

i could build more with little effort, but it’s a lot like riding a motorcycle. The risks are on the table before you leave the garage.

[Mastertech5]

If there is one thing I've learned from reading these threads is don't buy an accessory drive system until you install the engine. Looks real tight. I'm waiting to order a 33 in a few months with an LS3 TKO600. Looking good so far. Keep up the good work.

[colsen23153]

Hi, guys. I know nothing about finishing the fiberglass on this kit car. I want to put on my bike fenders but not in RED!

Is there a link to a guide that explains how to prepare the surface (sand), what grit paper to use, and how much gelcoat to take off. What body filler to use if needed. Once sanded I think you need to seal it with an epoxy first before applying on the primer. What is a good inexpensive air gun to use? What size nozzle should I get? I think you need one size for primer then another for the top coat and clear coat.

I want a good paint job knowing that after I have completed the car it's going to the paint shop for a real paint job. I also don't want to put something on it that a paint shop would would say WTF... and have to remove before they start and charge me extra.

Thanks in advance,
Cliff

[House Money]

If there is one thing I've learned from reading these threads is don't buy an accessory drive system until you install the engine. Looks real tight. I'm waiting to order a 33 in a few months with an LS3 TKO600. Looking good so far. Keep up the good work.

Mastertech5: I'm also using an LS3 in my truck build and I was surprised at how little room there was for an accessory drive, and I consider the LS as a rather compact engine. What I ended up using was the Holley LS accessory drive system, I ordered P/N 20-185BK as the black fit my theme better. What I like about this system: no extra brackets, everything mounts to their water pump housing, and that housing has a provision for the LS steam line. Another plus for me since I not running a hood or side covers is the water pump has two options for routing the heater hoses, straight out like any other LS water pump, or down as I used. It helped to kind of hide the heater hoses IMO. One thing to be aware of: While this system comes with a power steering pump and related parts, there is no way the P/S would fit in the '33/'35 chassis - other FFR models I can't speak too. I wish it was offered without the P/S, but even with it it was a little cheaper than some other systems I looked at, now if I could only sell those P/S parts I didn't use!
133785133786133787133788133789133790

[e36m3]

Hi Cliff,

A while back I was doing some searching on body work on the Factory Five forums and I cut and pasted some body work info into a Word doc. Here is what I saved. I wish I could find the thread this info came from. I also watched a bunch of car painting videos on Eastwood too. No guarantees on the info below. Hopefully it helps a little. I still putting my car together so body work and painting is a ways in the future for me.

VERY IMPORTANT! Any leftover wax can contaminate fillers, primer or paint and lead to failure. This needs to be done before any sanding or grinding otherwise the wax is just getting embedded into the gelcoat or fiberglass. I washed it twice using PPG MX190 Cleaner & Degreaser, first with a soaked rag then with a green Scotchbrite. I wiped it down after the washes to pick up the dissolved wax and solvent using heavy paper shop towels like you can get in a box from Lowes or Home Depot. After the solvent wash it got cleaned again using Comet cleanser, Scotchbrite and hot water.

These cars are full of areas where the gel coat is mixed in with the glass and resin and other areas full of air bubbles. Don't worry about them all because they are not ALL a problem. Focus on the seam... Examine the seam and lay tape along the area that you suspect needs to be ground out and DO NOT grind past the tape line. The tape will act as a guide.

Use Dremel bit to grind out gelcoat filled pin holes, be careful not to go too far into panel.
Use bondo with short strand fiberglass to fill in deep areas, Napa body pro mini fibre or Evercoat everglass. Something else that I've been meaning to add as useful info for those that will be tackling their own bodywork. Make sure to do a very thorough investigation of every body seam. You'll notice opaque areas along the seams after you've sanded the area flat. I first started with a small wire brush and pic but could see right away that this area needed a far more aggressive approach. So I ended up going at the seams with my Dremel and a small carbide tip. It was shocking to see how many of those areas that I thought were solid from using the pic and brush simply popped right off with a touch of the Dremel. I found some nasty craters, especially on the lower post of my hard top. Better to find this stuff now and fix it than have one pop after paint.

Following the cleaning I started knocking down the flash at parting lines using a DA with 80 grit.

Next I blocked the body with 150 using a combination of flexible boards I got from Eastwood a few years ago. You can adjust their rigidity by adding or removing the steel rods.
The idea is to use as long a block as the panel will allow and work following the contours. Use a smaller and/or more flexible block on the more complex curves. Oh, and don’t forget the foam pool noodle! They work great for working on a tight inside radius. Here it is all blocked and scuffed.
From here it goes outside and gets blown off (the dust just seems to never end!) then gets washed down with degreaser again. I followed that up with another wash using lacquer thinner. Time for evercoat Rage Gold!

A couple of tips I'll pass on that I learned when I did my car. Most of the inexpensive primer guns come with a 1.8mm tip which is a bit small for Featherfill and Slick Sand 9high build primers). Fluid tips for these inexpensive guns are either unavailable or cost nearly as much as the guns themselves. I simply opened mine up to about 2.1mm (.0826") by drilling it with a #45 bit (.0820"). The 1.8 needle still seats just fine and it works well to deliver additional material smoothly.

Speaking of delivering material smoothly, we all know that the smoother the surface the less sanding is required. What I do is make the first couple of passes with Featherfill or Slick Sand mixed per specs to get the high build then for the final coat add 5-10% fast reducer or acetone. It really helps it flow and lay down slick greatly reducing the amount of sanding to make it flat. First coat goes down light, let it flash over, then wetter coats, that should eliminate the runs.

To close the pinholes, I used a Q-tip soaked in the remaining FFG2 (in the gun) and forced some into each hole. Then went back with another dab to bring it just above the surface.
The body now has a good 4-5 coats on the seams and 4 coats total on the main panels. This is the second round of primer application after spraying a 1/2 gallon a few weeks ago and then block sanding that out to 180. Blocked with 180, then will hit this with a black guide coat...then it is time to block sand it out to 320.

I noticed you are hanging all your panels. When mine was sprayed, we painted the underside of the hood and trunk the night before then masked them off. This allowed the painter to lay them flat on sawhorses(way less chance of a run). Also we could mask of the hood scoop and latch openings, etc. to stop overspray from side to side.

Heavy metallics like silvers will be more prone to show a difference in the "grain" if they are not done in the same orientation as the adjacent body panel.

Thanks,

Andy

[HVACMAN]

If there is one thing I've learned from reading these threads is don't buy an accessory drive system until you install the engine. Looks real tight. I'm waiting to order a 33 in a few months with an LS3 TKO600. Looking good so far. Keep up the good work.
I ordered my front drive system from CVF Racing. Good quality and less expensive than Holley and others. It uses an eight ribbed belt system for less slippage. Just another option.
133941133942133943

[Chris C]

If you didn't use the power steering pump, what belt did you use? Was it as simple as just not installing the pump? I'm planning a LS3 in a gen1 and have been looking at these.

[sethmark]

Can’t speak for the fancy brackets, but I took a truck alternator bracket, cut it in half, polish the edges and powder coated it. It’s the only accessory I’m currently running. If it’s some point I add air conditioning, and the evaporator is already under dash and the condenser in front of the grill, I will use an electric pump.

[HVACMAN]

If you didn't use the power steering pump, what belt did you use? Was it as simple as just not installing the pump? I'm planning a LS3 in a gen1 and have been looking at these.

You can buy with p/s pump or without. The kit includes an eight rib belt.

[House Money]

If you didn't use the power steering pump, what belt did you use? Was it as simple as just not installing the pump? I'm planning a LS3 in a gen1 and have been looking at these.

Not sure which accessory drive system you are asking about, I installed the Holley and yes I just left the P/S components off, the belt I found that fit was a Gates # K060651.

Gary

[Chris C]

Not sure which accessory drive system you are asking about, I installed the Holley and yes I just left the P/S components off, the belt I found that fit was a Gates # K060651.

Gary

Hi Gary,
It was yours I was asking about. So no bolt or spacer changes? I'm down the road in Kirkland btw. Work for Boeing too.

[House Money]

Hi Gary,
It was yours I was asking about. So no bolt or spacer changes? I'm down the road in Kirkland btw. Work for Boeing too.

Chris, I'm going to send you a PM - I've sort of hi-lacked this thread - sorry about that Cliff!!

[colsen23153]

Well it didn't take long before this would happen. 134341 I went to get a haircut and after parking I notices something wasn't right when I walked around the car. 134342 What would anybody think after seeing that?

I called for a tow and while waiting checked all my levels and they were ok. It looked like trans fluid and it only leaked with the engine running. Because it's so low I couldn't see much. I was thinking one of my cooling lines came loose.

After getting it back in the gurage and jacked up. It became obvious where the leak was coming from. It's a 700R and I am using a speedometer that uses GPS. So I got what I thought was a good plug for where the cable would come from. It must have let go a short distance before I turned into the parking lot. Another mile or two and it would have been dry. Easy fix, ordered the correct plug and I'll have it in a few days. All I can do is count my blessings that it turned out this way rather then the other.

This was my second shake down ride. Check everything, even if you don't think anything strange will happen.

I used ICT part # 551961 from eBay (no shipping) to replace the part I had in it. It was a rubber disk sandwiched between metal plates that you screw together to expand the rubber.