SN95 e-brake handle challenge(s)

[Canuk14]

Primary item:

I am working on my Mk4, using a 1994 Mustang Gt coupe donor. The cables are direct NAPA replacement Mustang e-brake cables for the 94. The handle itself is also from the 94 donor.

The handle is installed using the FFR provided hardware bolt and slide-on clamp. The cables are sitting nicely in the chassis bracket near the location of the handle.

Once the "T" coupling is attached to the 2 rear cables tension is immediately applied to the cables, there is no slack.

When the handle is engaged the lower cable pulls in at least twice the distance of the upper cable.

I swapped the position of the cables, and the result is the same; the lower cables gets pulled in at least twice the distance.

So it's likely something obvious that I'm just not seeing after hours of messing with it and searching the forums for a SN95 specific solution.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

The secondary item is that it appears that the handle is way to close to the transmission tunnel. And once the carpet is added there will be near zero clearance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

[michael everson]

Are the brakes bled yet? It makes a difference in how the E-brake functions. It could be why one pulls further than the other. As for the clearance, try slotting the mounting holes to move the handle out.
Mike

[AC Bill]

Is this on a MK4?

If the stock 94 set up is anything like the Fox e-brake set up...
Normally you pre-tension the spring, by pulling on the T, while the e-brake is in a vice, or something to hold it solidly. Then using a nail or stiff wire, you pin the spring, to keep it in tension. When the handle is installed, and the T is attached to the cables, (which need to be attached to the calipers), then you pull the nail out, and the spring releases. This pulls the cables slightly into tension, but not enough that it causes the brakes to set.

You would think that the upper cable would actually be pulled tighter, by the distance down to the pulley, compared to the lower one? I don't recall my T being so far below the cables coming through the cable brace?. I think my cables had more of a straight shot to the pulley.
Looks like the brace for the cables is in a different position, then mine. Maybe yours is designed for the FFR e-brake handle, rather than a donor handle?

103723

[Canuk14]

The brakes have not been bled yet. So I'll follow up once that's done with a progress report.
I was able to open up the upper slot a bit which now makes the handle-to-tunnel-gap more reasonable.
Thanks Mike!

[canuck1]

Mine is a MK III chassis, but the mount and frame tubes still look similar to your MK IV. I think ACBill has detailed the pre-tension installation method well.
You can see in my photos the equalizer that retains the two cable ends does rub against the 3/4" tube. I attached a thin nylon/plastic stip to the tube and it slides fine. The 94-up ebrake setup works better than the Fox style IMHO, since you don't have to run any of the raw inner cables under the 4" tube. There is plenty of overall length to install calipers either ahead of or behind the axles (I've had mine installed both ways) and they work without the need to shorten them and crimp new ends on etc. From my perspective, it was a very a simple and successful rework of donor components.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2/seangibbs/e-brakecablepics007.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2/seangibbs/e-brakecablepics006.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2/seangibbs/e-brakecablepics005.jpg

You can see the allan key I had stuck in to keep the spool from unwinding like ACBill described.

https://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2/seangibbs/e-brakecablepics004.jpg

I ended up just securing the cables to the rear tunnel/chassis tubes with adel clamps but some people enlarge the factory holes in the rear of the tunnel to pass the cables through (seemed like a smart idea to me, but I had already decided to cut mine off!).

You can loosen the bolts securing the handle and rotate it away from the tunnel slightly (then re-tighten the bolts) to provide clearance for the handle from the outside of the tunnel with carpet etc.. You may decide to enlarge/oval the forward mounting hole to allow it to swing out away from the tunnel more. I understand your concern, but I think the setup you have actually works pretty well. I've never had to think about it since I installed it. Works very well, every time.

Sean