dwgcooks
03-04-2019, 01:03 PM
Well, I guess it's time to create my own build thread. I received the kit last week and have started the build. Well started the cutting would be closer to the truth.
I'm 6'3" and I'm starting with driver's seating and controls. I've already determined the stock fuel tank will not work for me as I have legs that need to go somewhere. I have done a test fitting to see if I can get under the broomstick test and cleared with about an inch extra space but the seat was too far forward. I will have to cut into the brace that is just in front of the fuel tank location to get the seat back and low enough to clear the broomstick. This will also allow me to not have to get crazy with the pedal placement. I will be able to shift them forward by 2 1/2 inches and I hope that will be enough or there will be considerably more fab needed to get them moved further than 2 1/2 inches.
This leads to my first question. With the seat basically on the floor pan how would one mount the seat belt tabs? I'm thinking steel floor pan (1/8-3/16 thick) for protection and a place to weld these tabs and be legal.
What have the taller 818'ers done for this?
SO getting ahead of myself a little. This car will be a track focused car and also registered for street driving. I have done much reading on here and will attempt to use the vast knowledge here with just using the stuff that works well and not go overboard with mods.
The donor is a 2006 WRX I picked up from Copart. That transaction went well and I got a creampuff considering the state of older WRX's being a magnet for modifications. Mine was all stock except for a Greddy cat back. Had a lot of service records from carfax including a new timing belt 20k before total and axles and brakes 10k before. The car was running and driving with some minor frame damage in the radiator support. Total cost $3,600.
One of my goals is to keep temperatures under control in a track environment. I plan on doing track days and not endurance racing so I plan to run 20-30 minutes at a time. I am focusing my cooling in the front of the car because that's where the air flow is. The engine will be using an Air to water inter cooler and a oil to water oil cooler. This I will hope eliminate the need for extensive ducting in the engine bay to try to get air back there for cooling. I will attempt to get some air to blow against the underside of the engine and flow out of the car easily but I think this will take so experiments to get it sufficient.
I will also be using E85 since I have a few sources around me and I like the benefits of using E85 in a boosted engine. The cooling affect and high octane attract me most.
Part list so far for the build.
Misimoto radiator with the ports on on side and not the middle like on a stock WRX.
Oil to water oil cooler for a Volvo. About 3x-4x the capacity as the stock oil cooler.
ArcTangent Design Oil control plate.
Moroso oil pick up
Cobb access port w/ intake tube, 3 port boost control, Fuel pressure switch, flex fuel kit
1300x ID injectors
2x AEM fuel pumps
Surge tank
TD06SL2 20g Turbo
Stock 4 pots up front and caddy rear brakes. Wanting to fit a 15" wheel front and upgrade at a later date to an unknown 4 pot front caliper. Probably Wilwood.
iWire Harness <Brian has been a big help so far!
More will be added for sure. The first task is getting the driver's controls and seating sorted.
I'm grateful for this forum and I can easily say without this resource I would have not bought the 818r.
I'm 6'3" and I'm starting with driver's seating and controls. I've already determined the stock fuel tank will not work for me as I have legs that need to go somewhere. I have done a test fitting to see if I can get under the broomstick test and cleared with about an inch extra space but the seat was too far forward. I will have to cut into the brace that is just in front of the fuel tank location to get the seat back and low enough to clear the broomstick. This will also allow me to not have to get crazy with the pedal placement. I will be able to shift them forward by 2 1/2 inches and I hope that will be enough or there will be considerably more fab needed to get them moved further than 2 1/2 inches.
This leads to my first question. With the seat basically on the floor pan how would one mount the seat belt tabs? I'm thinking steel floor pan (1/8-3/16 thick) for protection and a place to weld these tabs and be legal.
What have the taller 818'ers done for this?
SO getting ahead of myself a little. This car will be a track focused car and also registered for street driving. I have done much reading on here and will attempt to use the vast knowledge here with just using the stuff that works well and not go overboard with mods.
The donor is a 2006 WRX I picked up from Copart. That transaction went well and I got a creampuff considering the state of older WRX's being a magnet for modifications. Mine was all stock except for a Greddy cat back. Had a lot of service records from carfax including a new timing belt 20k before total and axles and brakes 10k before. The car was running and driving with some minor frame damage in the radiator support. Total cost $3,600.
One of my goals is to keep temperatures under control in a track environment. I plan on doing track days and not endurance racing so I plan to run 20-30 minutes at a time. I am focusing my cooling in the front of the car because that's where the air flow is. The engine will be using an Air to water inter cooler and a oil to water oil cooler. This I will hope eliminate the need for extensive ducting in the engine bay to try to get air back there for cooling. I will attempt to get some air to blow against the underside of the engine and flow out of the car easily but I think this will take so experiments to get it sufficient.
I will also be using E85 since I have a few sources around me and I like the benefits of using E85 in a boosted engine. The cooling affect and high octane attract me most.
Part list so far for the build.
Misimoto radiator with the ports on on side and not the middle like on a stock WRX.
Oil to water oil cooler for a Volvo. About 3x-4x the capacity as the stock oil cooler.
ArcTangent Design Oil control plate.
Moroso oil pick up
Cobb access port w/ intake tube, 3 port boost control, Fuel pressure switch, flex fuel kit
1300x ID injectors
2x AEM fuel pumps
Surge tank
TD06SL2 20g Turbo
Stock 4 pots up front and caddy rear brakes. Wanting to fit a 15" wheel front and upgrade at a later date to an unknown 4 pot front caliper. Probably Wilwood.
iWire Harness <Brian has been a big help so far!
More will be added for sure. The first task is getting the driver's controls and seating sorted.
I'm grateful for this forum and I can easily say without this resource I would have not bought the 818r.