Ed’s and Pam’s 818r build thread

[Brd.Prey]

We pick up our kit on April 13th, been collecting the necessary parts. Picked Perrin 2” equal length headers and all 4 corners STI hubs, Brembos. I got the exhaust ceramic coated and all the powder coating done for $550. I thought that was pretty reasonable.

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Those hubs were crazy rusty hard to breakdown. Then found out that Subaru discontinued the tool $300 anyway required to install the group N bushing I bought for the rear hub to trailing link. Ordered some tubing to try and fab a tool to install the bushing.

[Mitch Wright]

Welcome and enjoy your build.

[Brd.Prey]

Welcome and enjoy your build.
Thanks!

[Rob T]

It's great to have you aboard. Where are you located? What are the plans for your car?

[Brd.Prey]

Located in Lakeland FL. halfway between Tampa and Orlando. Occasional track car that is registered for those sunny fall and spring days for a spirited drive or two.

[Brd.Prey]

Picked up the kit last weekend. 2650 miles round trip 56 hours and 660 dollars in gas and 148 dollars in tolls. Spent the week inventorying and figuring out a storage plan. Built a steel 2x4 frame suspended from the ceiling to hold all the body parts and aluminum. I also got one of those bin racks for the bolts. Started today on modifying the front spindle brackets for STI spindles. Wife got all the splatter off for powder coating.
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[Brd.Prey]

Finished the STI spindle bracket and Vraptor Spoiler Mount.
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[grabera7]

Any pictures/info on how you modified the spindle bracket?

[Brd.Prey]

I will post an inside pic. Basically drilled out the 2 holes they weld the inside bracket on with, inside bracket spacers will fall out. Then the bracket will fit the STI Spindle. I then made a card stock template of the STI splindle as it is a different shape. I then cut out of 3/16 steel 2 new plates for the outside. I lined up the lower holes of my bracket with the supplied bracket kept the outside straight edge of the supplied bracket and my new plates (if anything this might add more camber that can be removed by adjusting the upper A-arms. Welded them on and drilled out the new hole. I then built up the supplied bracket with mig beads until it closely matched my new bracket. I also mig'd up the old holes in the supplied bracket.

[grabera7]

Thanks. I ended up buying these from bds818dwk a while back. I was curious what you did. I'm planning to use a complete STI donor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27050-BDS-818c-Build-Thread!&p=338709&viewfull=1#post338709

[Brd.Prey]

Very similar, I just matched the shape if the struct machining. I thought this would give it some added strength.
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[Brd.Prey]

I was able to drop off the chassis for powder coating!!!! I completed all my chassis mods. Vraptor Wing mount, Zack's idea of removable engine bracers, Kurks 6 speed frame mod. Wayne's telling me on his 818 he would cover the seat area with 11ga steel plate (5/16 button heads are recessed so it is removeable) and seat mounting points.

Spoiler Mount
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Removable Rear Brace
I decided to use 2 bolts per attachment and weld nuts on the bottom
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Transmission cut
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1/8 steel bottom. The welded tabs are where the recessed bolt heads go that screw into threaded holes in welded on tabs on the frame.
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[Brd.Prey]

With the chassis at the powder coating place it was time to catch up on the motor. It is a 2.5L STI 2006. My son and I installed the Arc Tangent windage tray, Killer B pickup and Killer B pan. We also filled the original holes in the manifold Throttle Body flange and tig welded them up. Then re-drilled the to fit a Subaru BRZ aftermarket DBW 72mm throttlebody manufactured by Grams. I real beautiful piece. The BRZ and the 2006 STI use the same connector and the same wiring to the pins. So basically it is a kinda a drop-in mod. The STI intake needs lots of porting to match the gaskets of the TVG housing. The TVG not so much. That along with opening the intake TB side to 72mm should take care of the intake tract. I have 2" Perrin headers for the exhaust side. I am planning on running a TD06-20g turbo and I have 1000CC injectors.

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[Mitch Wright]

If you haven't already I recommend the KB Oil Control valve and either the KB or Crawford Ail Oil Separator. That combination with the KB pan/pick up and Arctangent oil Control plate worked flawlessly for me for a lot of track miles.

[Brd.Prey]

Absolutely agree and plan on Oil Control,valve, I already have the vented to air IAG comp AOS.

[Brd.Prey]

Ok, It has been about 6 weekends worth of work. We have a roller. No plumbing yet. Hopefully this upcoming weekend we will be installing the engine transmission. I want to thank all you guys and girls for posting I have borrowed or felt more confidence in my approach from all of your posts. Plus thanks to Wayne for answering so quickly on all those posts.

Especially worthy of mention is all the time working out the DA Koni shocks. I was shocked to discover I am the first one to put them on an "R". I also had steering rack issues. Not sure why but my steering rack mount heights are different. I used Craigs "Mechie" rack mount and I needed to cut it and flat and round out the mount stop. My rack on the passenger side would hit the control arm bolt while my driver side had an inch or so clearance. Spent forever getting the seat mount right for ergonomics and broom stick. I also made my own steering wheel mount. Drilled like 600 times in order to make the sides direct 10-32 screw on. Swaybar I know know why no one uses one! It sucks to mount it. I had to make delrin bases for the factory U-clamps. I went with a 13mm front bar and 425# springs in the front and I want an adjustable 10mm bar with 500# springs in the back. I also went with a Tilton 600 throttle pedal and it mounts awesome because it looks like it was designed to bolt to the end of the wilwood set and it is just right to take up the clearance of one of the supplied spacers. Please ask if you want to see something I have pics of most everything. I love the Milwaukee cordless riveter. I painted all body parts with a Direct to Metal 2 part EPOXY primer then top coated with grey or black wrinkle spray. The great thing about this is primer is 30 min till dry and the I would use an electric heater to cure the wrinkle coat. So, any part can be painted and installed in an hour or so. No waiting. That combo has turned out to be "VERY" durable. Copied Mechie Zero Decible radiator mounts but had to hand make them as I am sans mill and lathe, but I have a TIG so my spacer is welded on.
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[Brd.Prey]

I will make a specific post in suspension about fitting shocks and steering rack in a couple days.

[Kurk818]

Amazing attention to detail. Love the color choice for the frame as well. Keep it up!

[Brd.Prey]

So delinquent posting. I have taken pics along the way. This weekend ran hard lines for the intercooler water and built 2 mounts, one for the intercooler pump and one for the oil filter. The motor is in, I ended up raising it about 1/2 at the front mounts because my Killer B oil pan was the lowest part. That cured that problem. I used a 1/2 spiral machine reamer $20 of amazon and with a drill I made all the stock bushing and frame holes exactly 1/2. Worked great all the bolts are same size and their is no slop. I think I am the first person to use the Koni DA shocks. They didn't fit at all. I had to grind the shock, the frame you name it. I drilled new holes up higher and more inside for the top shock mounts. These shocks are 16" long. I also added tender springs and dividers. With this car so light and using a 500# spring I cant see how a tender is not absolutely required to stop the spring from backing around when the suspension extends. Mounted the drivers seat, firewall and figured out FIA legal seatbelt anchors. I also ran all the fuel lines and installed a surge tank and pump. Main radiator lines are run.

Pics are basically reverse order chronologically


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[Brd.Prey]

More pictures, mostly suspension

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[Brd.Prey]

Shock data

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[AZPete]

Beautiful work.

[Zach34]

Thanks for posting the pictures and info on the shocks. I ran dual-adjustable Koni's on my Roadster many years ago, replacing the OEM Pro Shocks that came with the kit. They worked fantastic, especially on the track. Yours look like an improved model.

My Roadster was similar in weight to what most 818's will weigh, and roughly 50/50 weight distribution. I can't remember what spring rates I ran, but I want to say in the neighborhood of 550-450. The suspension worked well, but you are right - with those heavy springs, suspension travel is minimal, and the springs only compressed less than an inch from the weight of the car. The tenders are a good call.

Interested to hear about how it works, what you think of the shocks, and spring rates.

[Brd.Prey]

I also plan on running a front and rear sway bar. I find it the easiest way to adjust under/over steer. Right now I have the 13mm in the front and I am gonna start out with and adjustable 17 mm in the rear.

[Zach34]

I'm planning on front and rear sway bars, too. Do you have a ballpark on spring rates you are targeting for the bars?

I made NASCAR-style splined bars for my Roadster. Lots of adjustment. That's my rough plan for the 818, too, but need to figure out placement. On the roadster they tightened up the car a lot - made it feel a little easier to control.

[Brd.Prey]

No, I need to work out the install location in the rear. My plan is to add a bunch of holes. Balance (over under steer) the car front to rear using the rear sway holes. Once I am balanced front to rear I will start evaluating spring rates.

[Sgt.Gator]

My front bar is connected. One of the first tests I was going to run once I had a baseline would have been to disconnect it. Then the trans came apart.
As soon as I get it back on track I'll do another baseline then disconnect it. Most of the guys running Rs I think have either disconnected theirs or never installed it (per the R manual).

[Zach34]

With the CG being so low in these cars, especially at R height, we might end up with very light sway bar spring rates.

They made a very big difference in the Roadster. I suppose it should be less dramatic in an 818R.

[Brd.Prey]

I noticed most don’t run them but I'm wondering if that is responsible for the really high spring rates. My goal is to have suspension with an adjustable range so that I can adjust it to soft bottom on the worse bump on the track. My first clue to problem was the recommended compression and rebound settings being max soft. Too me that says the shocks need revolving? I have no experience with cars this light so I may just be out to lunch. A supple suspension provides better traction in rough areas, a little squat can go along way.

[Zach34]

I actually wasn't aware FFR was offering the DA shocks for the 818. Looks like they don't list them on their part site anymore. Not trying to slam FFR here, but I would not expect those shocks to be right for the 818 out of the box. Probably best to see if you can get hold of a Koni tech and go over the specs of the car with them. They felt good on the Cobra, and the car was more controllable after I installed them, but that was all going off my own seat-of-the-pants feel, and I'm certainly not experienced enough to evaluate a shock by feel. The dimensions (stroke, max extended length) of the DA shocks for the Cobra/Roadster was not ideal either. They allowed the front suspension to droop far too low when jacking the car up. I made some small cable restraints to limit the travel.

[Brd.Prey]

I actually wasn't aware FFR was offering the DA shocks for the 818. Looks like they don't list them on their part site anymore. Not trying to slam FFR here, but I would not expect those shocks to be right for the 818 out of the box. Probably best to see if you can get hold of a Koni tech and go over the specs of the car with them. They felt good on the Cobra, and the car was more controllable after I installed them, but that was all going off my own seat-of-the-pants feel, and I'm certainly not experienced enough to evaluate a shock by feel. The dimensions (stroke, max extended length) of the DA shocks for the Cobra/Roadster was not ideal either. They allowed the front suspension to droop far too low when jacking the car up. I made some small cable restraints to limit the travel.

I did check the shock is shorter than the bind point on the ball joints when full extended and fully compressed. Not by much mind you.

[Brd.Prey]

This weekend not much done but installed the filter mount and plumbed the oil system and made a mount for the Accusump electric valve and pressure switch.
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[Brd.Prey]

Good weekend, converted the 2011 6 speed to front wheel only, replaced axle seals and outed on the shift linkage. Mechie can you check it. I also built custom mounts for the Oil Control Valve(Killer Bee), the Air Oil separator IAG and he AccuSump electronic solenoid valve. I also mounted an overflow tank in the front that should never see overflow with 2.0 bar radiator and 1.3 intercooler radiator. The overflow will be in the rear. Lastly I mounted a Mishimoto after engine coolant tank. Emergency brake and plumbing all the brakes next.
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[Bob_n_Cincy]

WOA (Work Of Art)
Bob

[Brd.Prey]

Not much accomplished this weekend, I goofed off to much! I finished the emergency brake mount and the cable bracket.
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[Brd.Prey]

This is the turbo I decided on. It should spool fast giving me a broad flat powerband.
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[Brd.Prey]

Good Friday, got home to the Axles from The Drive Shaft Shop and the new Turbo.
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[AZPete]

Weekend of fun coming.

[Brd.Prey]

Wife and I installed the new Drive Shaft Shop axles supposedly good for 850hp. The price ended up at $1040 including shipping and they have the optional high temp grease and vented boots for endurance. I also ran all the brake lines and Alf the clutch. I needed some hydraulic fitting to finish the clutch line. I also need to secure the lines. I installed 2 2psi check valves to stop the pad from traveling on there own. I ran the rear brakes and cutch lines down the middle.
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[AZPete]

grommets?

[Brd.Prey]

grommets?

Yup when I rivet the rubber wire guides holding the tubes

[Brd.Prey]

Went on vacation, so I lost couple weekends. I am working on the turbo mounting location and lowering the headers 1/2 inch to gain clearance on the oil lines. We ran the Very Cool Parts wiring harness (Wayne did a nice job getting the locations and distances right) and finished up the clutch lines. Bled everything. Mounted the ECU and the Haltech relay box. Built a box and mounted the Battery. 5.13 lbs! Crazy little thing for 900amps.

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[Brd.Prey]

I got the turbo wastegate mod done, mounted the windscreen and started the custom frame for the wrap around console. The frame for the console also had to allow the firewall to be removable. I am trying to design the console with some ergonomics. Like not having to move my arm to reach the shifter from the steering wheel. Make sure I can reach the seats with a 6 point harness tight. Put the Dash logger in the steering wheel opening and surround the wheel with the necessary gages.
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[Brd.Prey]

Busy weekend on the dash.
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[DSR-3]

Looks good! Great pace of progress and 'love the yellow frame.
One thing to keep in mind and work around is the (in-)ability to reach the dash/console while belted in. I can't reach either.
Also, I have a simple mount design for that display if you want it.

[Brd.Prey]

Looks good! Great pace of progress and 'love the yellow frame.
One thing to keep in mind and work around is the (in-)ability to reach the dash/console while belted in. I can't reach either.
Also, I have a simple mount design for that display if you want it.

Absolutely designing this dash from the drivers seat!

[Brd.Prey]

The dash front complete and the accelerator pedal linkage and pickup sensor was installed. The dash was wrapped for durability. I have included views from the drivers eye level. I used a metal shrinker for the first time and was quite happy with the way the sun shroud for the RacePak dash unit turned out.
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[flynntuna]

When they say that form follows function.... Well ...
That's what they had in mind . That my friend is a thing of beauty.

[Brd.Prey]

When they say that form follows function.... Well ...
That's what they had in mind . That my friend is a thing of beauty.

Thanks, I really appreciate the comment! I visualized something and it came out pretty close. I just felt that the WRX style dash was too far away. Maybe cause I'm old and lost my near vision! LOL

[aquillen]

That is great looking - you've got professional race car look, on par with some of the best looking I've seen.

[Brd.Prey]

Thanks that means a lot.

[Pearldrummer7]

This is an awesome build. Echo everyone else: it's super well done and looks fantastic.

What's your throttle linkage look like on that accelerator pedal? Is it a similar cable to stock or something nicer? The pedal itself looks great and fits the Willwood set really nicely.

[Brd.Prey]

I can get you another picture when I get back home. I am using a DBW aftermarket 72mm throttle body. I am using a Tilton floor mount modified and mounted to the FFR chassis. I am using a variohm sensor.

The picture is upside down
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[Brd.Prey]

Continuing with wiring and took advantage of my sons visit to fit up the turbo location. That area sure is tight trans, frame and back of the engine and also get below shock tower bracket. Ordered a Magnafow race muffler
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[Brd.Prey]

I got my wife this hobby vinyl cutter, Cricut. She wanted to make shirts and cups etc. I got this idea it would be a good way to label my wiring for gages etc. I measured and put the labels in Inkscape the. Transferred to the cricut. I then pulled and stuck and then painted it. I think it came out pretty cool. It also cuts super thin aluminum, leather. So I have a few ideas still left. The other terminal board will be for shock sensors.
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[Brd.Prey]

We got a lot done on this long weekend. The wiring in the dash is 90% complete. I am waiting on the shock travel sensors to wrap that up. The turbo mount and oil and water plumbing is complete. I finished the exhaust as well. Still need to weld bungs on for the o2 sensors. The mounts for the AWIC are welded and have primer also the Battery Cutoff. Finished up the Coolant system and PCV system. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel for light off. Wrap up stuff is left; Sensor wiring from dash area to sensor, 3" inlet and air filter, mount of the Oil cooler and plumb the AWIC.
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[AZPete]

Beautiful work

[Pearldrummer7]

The AWIC looks awesome. Where are you going to put the air cooler?

[Brd.Prey]

The AWIC looks awesome. Where are you going to put the air cooler?
Do you mean the little radiator? If so it is in front of the radiator.
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[Pearldrummer7]

Do you mean the little radiator? If so it is in front of the radiator.
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sweet! That's exactly what I was lookin for.

[Brd.Prey]

The intercooler install in complete including plumbing. The only real thing left before firing it up is to connect up the extended gauge wiring harness to the sensors and mount the oil cooler.
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[DSR-3]

Looks Nice! You must be getting excited.
Keep in mind when mounting and positioning things that there's a fair bit of movement of the engine/trans in action (unless you have hard-mounts).

[Brd.Prey]

Yes, everything is too close for normal mounts. I have these urethane tubes, I don’t think it will move.

[Brd.Prey]

I got the oil cooler mount figured out. Gauge wiring here I come!
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[Brd.Prey]

PCV system and IAG AOS competition version is all plumbed up. I also have the Dual 4.9 Bosch Wideband o2 sensors installed and wired along with the EGT sensor installed.
I am using exhaust flow to scavenge the crankcase vapors instead of routing them back into the intake upstream of the turbo. While the competition version just dumps them to atmosphere I wanted a little suction instead to help scavenge the gases. This you get in putting it upstream of the turbo but you also get oil all in your intake tract.
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[Brd.Prey]

Back at it. Holidays and engine issues slowed me to a crawl. This also helped to allow my expenses to slow down and allowed me to recover. So to summarize. Trying to start the engine resulted in it running on maybe 2 cylinders at best. The Haltech was complaining about home and trigger signals. So, I went down that rabbit hole changed a few sensors ringed out wiring and scoped signals. I eventually decided to convert the reluctor crank sensor to a hall effect sensor. The reluctor sensor only produces a .20 vac signal at cranking and it gets higher with rpm. I wasn't impressed with the variability at low levels. At the same time I decided to use the dedicated 8 volt supply from the Haltech to power both the new hall effect crank sensor and the factory hall effect cam sensors. I built a shielded dedicated harness for the the sensors. Meanwhile I discovered first one then a second swollen coil. I replaced them. I checked all the wiring to the coils and it rang out good. The car still wouldn't run on more than 2 cylinders. Well after troubleshooting I found out 2 of the new aftermarket apparently **** coils were bad I went out and got more and the motor ran but after about a minute started stumbling. AFR was like 22 to 1. I added up to 80% additional fuel and it got down to 14.7 to 1. Runs great at idle but richens as rpms increase. Needs a tune, pretty sure the extra fuel is on account of my removing the TGV and porting it all out. So, I am getting it ready for a trip to Wayne at VCP for a tune and an alignment. I added the shock travel sensors and individual wheel sensors. I need to install the seats and dash cover. I also went from the Toyota shifter to a Chinese knock off K tunes Acura shifter. $101 dollars and really well made with all the adjustments and bronze seats etc. Less than $150 dollars total and a much more confident and adjustable shifter.
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