budgeting a build

[csmith]

Hi everyone,

As the title might suggest above, I'm still trying to figure everything out as far as cost for things. I figured it'd be worth going into what I'd like to do first, and what my expectations for that are.


The car would primarily be used as a daily driver. Possible scca racing and occasional car shows more than likely.
The most complicated repair I've done is replace the brakes on a car. I'm expecting to need a decent number of tools.
I'm considering buying pretty much everything new, or at least with warranties. Just makes me feel more comfortable.
From looking at a lot of build threads, I think I'm pretty sold on the idea of using a coyote engine.
I'd like my wife to be able to keep the car if something were to ever happen to me, so an automatic transmission is a must.
A/C is a must, interior things like a navigation screen would be an nice to have.
Either roll up or powered windows are a must. It rains quite a bit where I live.
I'd more than likely be be farming out body work and paint to a professional. I'd be doing just about everything else with my dad and father-in-law.
I'm in Florida, which is probably relevant in regards to having assistance on the project.


Overall, I'm expecting the build to be around $50-60k; probably on the higher end.

With that in mind, the questions I have right now are:


If the transmission requires frame modifications, which it sounds like some autos would, how much does something like that cost? I'd consider doing this work myself if I absolutely knew I could do it safely. But, since I'm planning on driving the car on the streets I'd rather not put myself, or anyone else, at risk.
Does my expected budget sound like it's in the right ballpark with all of the above in consideration?



Thanks for any advice here :)

[wareaglescott]

Tools, coyote, mods to an automatic trans, all new parts, farming out body work, roll up or power windows would be custom, AC.....based on what I spent on my Coyote powered MK4 with farmed out paint I think 60k is quite low but that is just a wag off the top of my head. Will be interested to hear what others think.

[Jeff Kleiner]

$60K will be low for what you describe and roll up or power windows may be a non-starter. A couple of owners have tackled this and it required a tremendous amount of fabrication.

Jeff

[Sigurd]

I seem to spend a lot of money on small items I have not even thought of. Use the power- steering as an example. I have bought -an connectors, hoses, oil cooler, adjustable pressure valve etc. Not that much for each item but it adds up.

My thought is that I will rater extend the build period and get it as I want to have it than do it fast.

[GoDadGo]

CS,

Please know that I don't want to insult you in any way and the goal of my response is to save you some time and a lot of money.

After reading this one comment on your post I think this might be a bit of a reach for you:
"The most complicated repair I've done is replace the brakes on a car."

My suggestion would be to buy two low mileage C-5 and/or C-6 Corvettes, one with an automatic for your wife and one with a 6 Speed for you. Since you are in Florida, you'll be able to find two cars for the amount of money that you want to spend on building a Factory Five to your specifications.

EBAY LINK Searching for cars under 50-K miles in or near Florida:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/Cars-Trucks/6001/i.html?makeval=Chevrolet&modelval=Corvette&LH_ItemCondition=3000%7C1000%7C2500&_nkw=Chevrolet+Corvette&_sop=7&rt=nc&Vehicle%2520Mileage=Less%2520than%252050%252C000%2 520miles&_dcat=6168&UF_single_selection=Make%3AChevrolet%2CModel%3ACor vette&UF_context=finderType%3AVEHICLE_FINDER&_sacat=6001&_stpos=33331&_fspt=1&_sadis=200&Model%2520Year=2000%7C2001%7C2002%7C2003%7C2004%7C 2005%7C2006%7C2007%7C2008%7C2009%7C2010%7C2011%7C2 012

If you still want to go down this path then I'd suggest contacting one of the Master Builders on this forum and set the ball and the dollars into play and have a car built for for you. Just expect to be well above your budget that you posted.

Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!

Steve

[Jacob McCrea]

Like Steve, I also don't want to seem rude or crass, but if I had the same list of requirements and 50-60k budget I would buy a late-model Corvette (or two) - not so much because of the limited mechanical experience, but because I think you are asking a whole lot (comfortable daily driver, SCCA race car, roll-up windows) out of what is basically a tube-chassis race car with a fiberglass shell on it. Also, again not to be disrespectful, but google "fail, fail, fail, type 65" for a grim and sobering recounting of the challenges of building when you are relying on friends and family to fill in the skill gap.

[edwardb]

Can't add much to what others have said. I'm building a Gen 3 Coupe / Coyote right now. What Jeff said -- $60K isn't going to do it. Not with what you describe. Also what Jeff said -- roll-up windows aren't in the cards. I would say especially with the skill/experience level you describe. Just giving it to you straight. The doors and body where they fit aren't suited to roll-up windows. Those that have been done (I've seen a couple) did major door and body modifications. Take a look at a Superformance Coupe. It has roll-up windows and you can see how different the body and doors are. The Factory Five Coupe is replicating the original race version where they were never considered. Automatic transmission shouldn't be an issue. The transmission tunnel in the Gen 3 Coupe is roomy and I expect would fit fine. But I personally don't have any experience or added knowledge about it.

BTW -- I've read through that "fail fail fail" blog. Interesting I guess but pretty much a case study in how to do everything wrong and unreasonable expectations about the time and effort required. These are custom built cars, not snap together models. The effort required is significant. Don't underestimate that. The reward is great too. But isn't for everyone.

[csmith]

Thanks for the info everyone. A bit humbling to know I was as far off as I am. I actually thought 60k was somewhere close.

I mentioned my skill level mostly to give an idea that I don't have a ton of tools. My dad used to be a mechanic, and my father-in-law was a former metal fabricator. My dad doesn't have his tools anymore, and my father-in-law lives way to far away. I'd be getting a ton of guidance from either of them. For what it's worth, even my wife has done engine swaps in the past before. She's definitely more mechanically inclined than myself.

As for considering purchasing a sports car, the main interest in the project I had was to be able to spend some time with my dad that I've never had the opportunity too. He was deployed a lot when I was a kid. We don't have many hobbies in common... short of our appreciation for sports cars and enjoying building things I can't think of any. My dad has always wanted to build a car; however, never had the finances. This project would be a pretty good start to his retirement in a few years I think. If the entire project only took a couple of months that'd actually be pretty disappointing.

Having a car at the end of it is a plus.

[FF33rod]

You'll do fine! I highly suggest attending the build school - gives you some good tips and just getting familiar with everything really helps with the confidence. That could be another father and son experience too. At the HR build school last Nov we had 2 father/son pairs. I only wish my Dad were still around to share some of this with me.

Other have commented on the budget, which I have no experience with since I'm doing the '33. But, the one thing I question in your expectations is using the coupe as a DD. I guess it depends on what comfort level you want in a DD but it wouldn't be my cup of tea.
Have fun with the planning!
Steve

[GoDadGo]

Here is a little video that may help:

https://youtu.be/VthEEUj6eZk

Also, Mark Dougherty (aka: The Traveling Builder) would be a life saver if you get stuck!
You may want to see about having him as part of your team from the start.
A little expert on site help could really make this a fun, fun build!

Mark's Link:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?10-Mark-Dougherty

Good Luck!

Steve

[flynntuna]

I'd also recommend the build school for anyone with limited experience in car mechanics. You'll get a good idea whether you're getting over your head or not, and you can apply the cost to your purchase if you want to proceed with the project.

As far as the windows go have you seen the new model ffr is going to come out with next year? It's based on the same basic platform as the type 65 and I'll go out on a limb and say that they are planning on having roll up windows on that model.
You might also consider the 818c or the 33 or even the 35 truck. All those have windows and probably can be done with your budget. That's my 2 cent anyway fwiw.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Here is a little video that may help:



Well, yeah that's fine for John, Mark and the boys 'cause they had 3 weekends but we had to step it a little more to get the job done in 3 days :p


https://youtu.be/vahy1EzzRzE

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Well, yeah that's fine for John, Mark and the boys 'cause they had 3 weekends but we had to step it a little more to get the job done in 3 days :p


https://youtu.be/vahy1EzzRzE

Jeff

Show Off!

I just know that you didn't want to come down for Mardi Gras or Jazzfest so I figured I'd give John & Mark the plug.

Hummm, maybe you'll start traveling sooner than later.

Steve

[CraigS]

I wouldn't give up too easily. A couple of thoughts. 1-Let's just say you could get a 100% guarantee that you could do the car for $70k. Would that be a deal breaker? What if the last $10k came at the end of the build 2-3 yrs from now? Would that help? I am thinking that could be the paint budget. With some careful panel fitting by you to get it all working, you can drive the car in gelcoat just fine. For a year, or 2, or 3. Many roadsters are built that way, probably less coupes but what the heck. 2-I would think real hard about that auto trans. I know this isn't everyone's theory, but I wouldn't even look at an auto trans car. I bet your wife can learn to drive a stick. Mine has been doing it for years. Her DD is a MustangGT, Performance Package, manual trans. 3- Forget rollup windows. You have heat and AC. Permanent non moving windows are fine. Work on getting the car sealed up to keep out rain. 4- To save some money stick w/ an old school engine. No a Roush complete engine may not be less expensive than a Coyote, but there are tons of options out there and there are several bolt on efi systems that work quite well and keep the old school look.

[csmith]

Thanks for the encouragement Craig... figured I'd address your suggestions here, since I've gotten a couple PMs with similar advice.


1-Let's just say you could get a 100% guarantee that you could do the car for $70k. Would that be a deal breaker? What if the last $10k came at the end of the build 2-3 yrs from now? Would that help? I am thinking that could be the paint budget. With some careful panel fitting by you to get it all working, you can drive the car in gelcoat just fine. For a year, or 2, or 3. Many roadsters are built that way, probably less coupes but what the heck.

Not something I considered. I guess I didn't really know the car was driveable with the gelcoat. At which point, yeah, $70-75k would be doable.


2- ... I bet your wife can learn to drive a stick.

Sorry to disappoint, it's a physical disability preventing her from operating two pedals simultaneously. She's as excited as I am about the idea, and while she'd probably let me, it'd be incredibly unfair of myself to not make it something she could drive as well. I've looked into clutchless manuals, as well as hand controlled clutches, and the increased expense and complexity didn't seem worth it over an automatic.


3- Forget rollup windows. You have heat and AC. Permanent non moving windows are fine. Work on getting the car sealed up to keep out rain.

Also something I hadn't considered were permanent windows. I suppose I've never seen them, so I didn't know the option existed. I'd be open to that, but how do you open the door if the battery dies? I suppose a key for the hatch, given the battery is back there?


4- To save some money stick w/ an old school engine. No a Roush complete engine may not be less expensive than a Coyote, but there are tons of options out there and there are several bolt on efi systems that work quite well and keep the old school look.

Yeah, perhaps asked a bit too much, and I could always scale back.

[Garry Bopp]

csmith,

In regards to the permanent windows, they have a sliding panel to let in fresh air. You can reach in to open the door latch. The windows on the Gen 3 coupe are easily removable for track days.

Garry

102973102972

[John Dol]

I also didn't have a ton of experience, oil changes, brake work, new tail lights and a cold air intake for my DD.
If there's a willingness to learn, and your not afraid to ask questions here you can get it done.
There are people here that never painted a car, and did theirs with great success.
I didn't because I was afraid to screw it up(and because I don't have the patience probably :rolleyes:)
If your dad is nearby to help I think it would be a great experience, wish I could've done it but he past before I had the chance.
That was also one of the reasons I started building my dream when I was 40 and not wait till I was retired.
Granted it took longer then I anticipated because life threw a few curveballs along the way, but I'll be pretty stoked with the end result.

DO IT!!!!

John

[RAMRobAZ]

Have you asked your insurance company for a quote on a Kit car with Monster horsepower, half the weight of a corvette, fixed windows, $70K value, barley controllable in the rain, and hand built in your garage, with unlimited miles a year coverage?

[Bob-STL]

PM sent.

[wareaglescott]

Have you asked your insurance company for a quote on a Kit car with Monster horsepower, half the weight of a corvette, fixed windows, $70K value, barley controllable in the rain, and hand built in your garage, with unlimited miles a year coverage?

This is a little out of context. My insurance company never asked my how many HP, how much it weighed, if it had windows, how controllable it was in the rain or who built it. Sure wasn't an issue getting insurance.

Another vote for don't let the lack of experience turn you off. My previous experience was oil changes 25 years prior in high school and I did just fine. You just have to be diligent on research and not afraid to ask for help. You can do it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

This is a little out of context. My insurance company never asked my how many HP, how much it weighed, if it had windows, how controllable it was in the rain or who built it. Sure wasn't an issue getting insurance.



Nor did mine, or the insurers for any other OWNERS I have spoken to.

Jeff

[boBQuincy]

I was going to write this in a new thread but this is probably a good place for it: my plan was similar to yours, a "driver" Type 65 with enough amenities to make it reasonably comfortable and yes, roll-up windows. My budget, after reading plenty of build threads was $50K for a Coyote with Tremec and IRS and I was prepared to go over that by 10-20%.

The big draw was the drop-dead looks of the Gen-3 Type 65, nothing looks as good! My wrenching skills are up to the task (years of Corvairs) and I am ok with a year of building as long as the parts all fit without grinding/bending/reworking.

But it has to be a driver, capable of going on an overnight trip a few hours away without feeling like I've been beat up when I get there. It should have under-car rear-exit exhaust so I don't have to wear earplugs and can hear a stereo. It has to be ready for hot humid weather and rain (Florida). I want A/C, PS, PB, and yes, roll-up or at least slide-up windows.

By now you may be thinking "buy a Mustang", so I ordered one. Performance is not that far behind a FF but I will always wish it looked like a type 65 coupe!

[edwardb]

Little late to the party, but an observation about driving the Coupe in gel coat for some time before painting. This is a strategy some use for the Roadster. But based on my experience with the Gen 3 Coupe, not quite the same. Unlike the Roadster, there are a number of aluminum panels that aren't installed until after the main body section is installed. Two of the main ones are the rear cockpit corners behind the seats. More than just the splash guards and radiator inlet pieces on the Roadster. Others might see it differently, but to get the body to a driveable condition, you would probably need to install all the panels and not remove the body for painting. Painting "body on" isn't common, but is possible. Then there's the matter of the windshield. Instead of a bolt-on windshield like the Roadster, the Coupe has a glued in windshield like most daily drivers. Glue it in for the temporary gel coat driving time, then remove for paint and glue in again? I don't know. There is fiberglass and edges to be painted that's under the windshield.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Little late to the party, but an observation about driving the Coupe in gel coat for some time before painting. This is a strategy some use for the Roadster. But based on my experience with the Gen 3 Coupe, not quite the same. Unlike the Roadster, there are a number of aluminum panels that aren't installed until after the main body section is installed. Two of the main ones are the rear cockpit corners behind the seats. More than just the splash guards and radiator inlet pieces on the Roadster. Others might see it differently, but to get the body to a driveable condition, you would probably need to install all the panels and not remove the body for painting. Painting "body on" isn't common, but is possible. Then there's the matter of the windshield. Instead of a bolt-on windshield like the Roadster, the Coupe has a glued in windshield like most daily drivers. Glue it in for the temporary gel coat driving time, then remove for paint and glue in again? I don't know. There is fiberglass and edges to be painted that's under the windshield.

I can understand but respectfully disagree with your skepticism Paul. There is nothing that can't be undone which would allow a coupe to be used for some time in gel coat and then have bodywork and paint done at a later date. This is the exact strategy being used on the Gen 3 I'm working on currently.

Jeff

[edwardb]

I can understand but respectfully disagree with your skepticism Paul. There is nothing that can't be undone which would allow a coupe to be used for some time in gel coat and then have bodywork and paint done at a later date. This is the exact strategy being used on the Gen 3 I'm working on currently.

Jeff

Honestly a matter of opinion, and that's how I tried to present it. I certainly respect your opinion as well. Mainly I guess pointing out it's not as straightforward as the Roadster since the recommendation came from a Roadster builder. How are you planning to deal with the windshield? Just glue it in twice?

[CraigS]

Edward B you have a valid point I think. Not as easy as w/ a roadster for sure.
Csmith, I wasn't aware your wife had a disability so now let's think about auto trans. A good friend who is a hi perf junkie ordered a new Mustang a month ago-w/ an auto trans. Of course I had to give him grief. Apparently the current Ford auto trans is very well done and beats manual trans in the 1/4 mile every time. I have no idea if it is usable in an FFR coupe though. I am aware that there are shops that do Hi perf auto trans though so I hope someone will chime in w/ some actual info on them. I have a 408 in my roadster and it is on the mild side and would work just fine w/ an auto trans. I have never dynoed it but based on the original 351 being rated at 400 hp I think this is in the 450 range. I told Comp Cams I needed to be able to drive at 1300 in 5th gear so they recommended a cam. I think I could have gone 1 step wilder but it drives so nicely I doubt I will change it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

How are you planning to deal with the windshield? Just glue it in twice?

R&R, just as would be the case if it were to be broken.

Jeff

[csmith]

Apparently the current Ford auto trans is very well done and beats manual trans in the 1/4 mile every time. I have no idea if it is usable in an FFR coupe though.

Pretty sure that's the 6R80. Just by measurements from Ford, it appears it's about 2" longer at its widest point compared to the coupe's trans tunnel. That's why I mentioned there may need to be frame modifications. Gordon Levy is currently using this transmission for GndHog's build. Needless to say, my eyes have been pretty glued to that thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29905-GndHog-s-Gen-3-Coupe-R-Coyote-XS-5-2-twin-turbo-build-by-LR-Classics). I haven't reached out to him yet, but perhaps Gordon would be able to give me advice, or just general info he learned, or hopefully at least a quote. Within another 4-5 years it's possible someone else does this too.


R&R, just as would be the case if it were to be broken.

And if that isn't an option, I guess you could always paint it red.

[freds]

[QUOTE=Jeff Kleiner;359652]I can understand but respectfully disagree with your skepticism Paul. There is nothing that can't be undone which would allow a coupe to be used for some time in gel coat and then have bodywork and paint done at a later date. This is the exact strategy being used on the Gen 3 I'm working on currently.


I'm an old geezer (76) and a widower. I'm building my gen3 coupe entirely because it keeps me busy with "non trivial" challenges. I don't post much as I'm a follower and others are doing a fantastic job of building and posting.
Anyway here's my take on the body gel coat discussion.

1. I don't much care for the red but that's how the body comes and I can live with it.
2. I learned how to use gel coat on my 818S and finished that car so that it really looked good. (It was a learning process!)
3. I damaged that car a few times ...speed bumps, driveway transitions to the road, and curb abrasions. I really really appreciated the fact that I could make invisible repairs with epoxy gel and then gel coat.
Seeing some of the beautiful paint jobs on some of the cars, I guess any repairs have to go back to the paint shop....$$$$. Also the gel coat surface is really hard-wearing and tough
4. I have the time (and it does not take that much time!) to do the body work.....which I do without Bondo, getting down to the body base.

Photo Taken this morning.
103099

[edwardb]

R&R, just as would be the case if it were to be broken.

Jeff

Got it. :o

[edwardb]

Pretty sure that's the 6R80. Just by measurements from Ford, it appears it's about 2" longer at its widest point compared to the coupe's trans tunnel. That's why I mentioned there may need to be frame modifications. Gordon Levy is currently using this transmission for GndHog's build. Needless to say, my eyes have been pretty glued to that thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29905-GndHog-s-Gen-3-Coupe-R-Coyote-XS-5-2-twin-turbo-build-by-LR-Classics). I haven't reached out to him yet, but perhaps Gordon would be able to give me advice, or just general info he learned, or hopefully at least a quote.

The automatic in the Mustang GT getting all the press that it's quicker than the manual is a 10-speed auto. The 6R80 is a 6-speed. So the performance claims may/may not be applicable to the 6-speed auto. But the 6R80 is the automatic that Ford packages with the Coyote crate motor. They've sorted out the fitment, electronic controls, etc. Turns out I was at a show this weekend where Ford Performance showed the 6R80 auto next to the T-56 manual. Their two offerings they package with the Coyote. Took these pictures FWIW.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1210_zpssi779a4q.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1210_zpssi779a4q.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1211_zpse8w4ijxq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1211_zpse8w4ijxq.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1212_zpsadyxfpzh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1212_zpsadyxfpzh.jpg.html)

[CraigS]

EdwardB, that is excellent news. The electronics being packaged by Ford makes that a no-brainer if using a Coyote engine. Glad you came across that.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks to Erik Treves my wife now wants a Coupe of her own (but doesn't want to shift gears) so it's good to see the automatic support from Ford! Note that like the MT82 manual 6 speed the 6R80 is set up for a Guibo (Giubo) joint and has a fixed output flange which will require using a driveshaft slip joint like is commonly seen on trucks. With the relatively short overall length of the 6R80 this can easily be accommodated, even in a roadster, which isn't necessarily the case with the MT82.

Jeff

[mswisher]

Interesting, how hard would it be to integrate paddle shifting. And where would you put the shifter?

Matt

[edwardb]

FWIW, here's a picture of the bottom side of my Gen 3 Coupe build with a Coyote and T-56 installed. Easy to see the T-56 fits easily. The 6R80 auto might fit. At the very least, looks like it would fit inside the frame with maybe the only modifications necessary being to the aluminum. Of course the rear mounting would also need to be addressed. This doesn't replace actual dimensions, but gives an idea.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1213_zps67hzwssw.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1213_zps67hzwssw.jpg.html)

[csmith]

FWIW, here's a picture of the bottom side of my Gen 3 Coupe build with a Coyote and T-56 installed. Easy to see the T-56 fits easily. The 6R80 auto might fit. At the very least, looks like it would fit inside the frame with maybe the only modifications necessary being to the aluminum. Of course the rear mounting would also need to be addressed. This doesn't replace actual dimensions, but gives an idea.

That’s pretty good to know. Looked a little into the 10R80 and it looks like it is about 1/2” narrower at the bell housing, but an extra inch in length. If it’s really close might be worth considering just to simplify things.

[CraigS]

That’s pretty good to know. Looked a little into the 10R80 and it looks like it is about 1/2” narrower at the bell housing, but an extra inch in length. If it’s really close might be worth considering just to simplify things.

I think fitting it in the car is the easy part. Having the electronics to run it is the hard part. 6 gears is plenty.

[csmith]

Gotcha, given the hesitation from people in this thread I wasn't sure if Edward's comment, "At the very least, looks like it would fit inside the frame with maybe the only modifications necessary being to the aluminum." made it a nonstarter.

[smithtlw]

I also don't want to crush your dreams but want to make sure you have realistic expectations of the car. When people say they want a daily driver with roll up windows I'm thinking they may be a bit optimistic in the passenger comfort department. When finished these cars can have the appearance of a production car but as mentioned above they are a tube-chassis race car with a fiberglass shell on it. I think that it is awesome that it is a project that you can work on with your dad and a well worth it even if the car is uncomfortable to you in the end.

Just understand that adding things like heat and AC to these cars doesn't really make them comfortable they just make them less uncomfortable. If you haven't done so already you should certainly find a coupe or even roadster local to take a ride in to get a feel for the characteristics of one. Everybody's threshold of noise and harshness is different. The pure rawness of these cars is what both attracts and repulses some.

Keep reading here and even on the other forum for more perspective on both the construction and final product characteristics.

-Todd

[boBQuincy]

I think fitting it in the car is the easy part. Having the electronics to run it is the hard part. 6 gears is plenty.

If you are really interested in the 10 speed auto xmsn there is a program called ForScan that can change almost any parameter of the Mustang (and other Ford) electronic modules.

[edwardb]

Gotcha, given the hesitation from people in this thread I wasn't sure if Edward's comment, "At the very least, looks like it would fit inside the frame with maybe the only modifications necessary being to the aluminum." made it a nonstarter.

You misinterpreted what I was trying to say. Maybe I didn't make myself clear. "Looks like it would fit inside the frame" means the main frame rails that you can see in the picture. They're much wider than the T-56 and to my eye look like maybe also wide enough for the 6R80 auto. Some aren't afraid of frame mods, but that's not me. I don't weld and I also don't want to mess with Factory Five's computer aided design. So for personally me that would be a non-starter. But maybe not for others as I said. "...the only modifications necessary being to the aluminum." is something I do all the time and so do many others. The aluminum panels are mainly there to hold the shape of the cockpit, etc. and while I suspect they do add structural integrity to the frame, modifying or making new pieces in that area to make the tunnel wider wouldn't be that hard or affect the structure of the chassis IMO. Just would have to determine what impact it would have on the other side, e.g. the cockpit area where the space would be taken from. Hopefully that's more clear.

[csmith]

That cleared it up, thanks. I was reading "only modifications necessary being to the aluminum" as essentially the frame mods I was concerned about in my original post. It makes a lot more sense as to why you said aluminum now, and in hindsight that was obvious.