Bell housing

[Packer fan]

Hi,
The lowest part of my car is the clutch bell housing.
It sits about 3/8” below the 4” tubes. Can I grind off the lip that hangs below the rest of the car or just leave it?

[GoDadGo]

Packer Fan,

I know very little about Fords, but could you possibly lift the engine 3/8" instead?

Go-Dad (Saints Fan) From NOLA

[Packer fan]

The engine is already using motor mount spacers.

[GoDadGo]

The engine is already using motor mount spacers.

You Need A Coyote Guy!
Sorry that I can't help.
Good Luck!

[boat737]

Quicktime bell housing. Not sure about a cast bell housing.

It's still the lowest point in the car by a fraction of an inch, and it has dragged a bit on certain driveways, but much better.

[edwardb]

I too have trimmed the QuickTime bell housings, and am comfortable recommending you do the same. The non-SFI version only requires a little bit. Sounds like the 3/8-inch you're talking about. The SFI version, which it looks like boat737 is showing, has a full circle and requires a deeper cut. Ideally, it would be better not to cut them I guess. But the negatives of having them running into things outweighs that IMO.

[ckrueger]

I trimmed the bottom of bellhousing on mine. It hangs to low if you don't. Once you cut it, it will negate the SFI rating, but for the vast majority of us it doesn't matter. As edwardb says, the negatives out weigh the positives. Mine is cut up about half way through the bottom hole. Still hangs a tad below the frame, but much better.

[NAZ]

Unless you're going to race your car and need the SFI cert don't worry about trimming the lower part. If it's a scatter shield and you've trimmed enough to leave an opening then you can expect some shrapnel to exit out the bottom if the clutch or flywheel explodes. Will that create a health hazard? If it was so low you had to trim it then exiting clutch parts will also be below your floorboards.

[kobra01]

I changed my oil pan because it was too low, then trimmed my QuickTime bell housings because it was now the lowest point. It's still a little too low but better.

[JohnK]

Unless you're going to race your car and need the SFI cert don't worry about trimming the lower part. If it's a scatter shield and you've trimmed enough to leave an opening then you can expect some shrapnel to exit out the bottom if the clutch or flywheel explodes. Will that create a health hazard? If it was so low you had to trim it then exiting clutch parts will also be below your floorboards.

Apologies in advance - hopefully this isn't too much of a detour to the original thread. I'm getting ready to order a Quick time bell housing for my Coyote/TKO600 combo and am debating between the SFI and non-SFI version. Other than the wider flange, is there anything else about the design or construction of the SFI version that would make it a "safer" bell housing (e.g., thicker gauge steel)? If I'm not planning to race, but still want the safest bell housing I can get, is there a reason to buy the SFI version (Yes, I would be planning to trim it as discussed here).

Thanks,
John

[NAZ]

John, can't tell you the difference between a non-SFI certified and a SFI certified bell -- I've only used their SFI versions. But I have talked to the head of Quick Time and he explained to me what they have to do to meet SFI and it was impressive. Now I didn't go back and dig out my notes so I'm going off memory and may not have the figures exactly correct but I think I'm close. They mount a special 20lb flywheel to a test fixture and spin it at 10,000 RPM then shatter it. None of the pieces can escape the bellhousing. Don't know the size of the fragments or diameter of the flywheel (if I did I could calculate the kinetic energy) but intuitively that was impressive that no piece can escape and that includes the opening for the T/O lever. I was considering adding a deflector shield over that T/O lever opening and after my discussion with QT I decided that wasn't necessary.

Not sure the non-certified bell could pass that standard. If you're really interested you can call Quick Time and ask. This outfit is easy to work with and will provide you with all the info you need. Ask for Ross McCombs, he was the founder and CEO of Quick Time before it was bought out and is still running the day to day operation. Great guy, very helpful.

[edwardb]

Apologies in advance - hopefully this isn't too much of a detour to the original thread. I'm getting ready to order a Quick time bell housing for my Coyote/TKO600 combo and am debating between the SFI and non-SFI version. Other than the wider flange, is there anything else about the design or construction of the SFI version that would make it a "safer" bell housing (e.g., thicker gauge steel)? If I'm not planning to race, but still want the safest bell housing I can get, is there a reason to buy the SFI version (Yes, I would be planning to trim it as discussed here).

Thanks,
John

Unless you need the SFI rating for sactioning reasons (e.g. racing) which it doesn't sound like you do, get the non-SFI QuickTime for your Coyote build. Specifically RM-6080 for the Coyote/TKO combination. The flange along the bottom is flat versus the full round of the SFI version. So a couple less bolts. But if you want the SFI version to not hang below the frame, you'll be cutting that extra material off anyway. I've also heard, although haven't experienced it myself because I haven't tried to install one for that combination, that the SFI version interferes with the Roadster frame. But the material is the same and the protection it would provide to the occupants for your purposes is more than adequate IMO. For street only driving, many would argue that the aluminum bell is enough, and a ton of builds use them. But I get where you're coming from and have used QuickTimes on my street driven builds.


...If it's a scatter shield and you've trimmed enough to leave an opening then you can expect some shrapnel to exit out the bottom if the clutch or flywheel explodes...

I've done several QuickTime bells in these builds, non-SFI and SFI in the Coupe build (only thing available for the Coyote/T-56 combination) and in all cases had to trim the bottom edge so it didn't hang below the frame. However, in no case was the trim any more than some of the flange and never actually opens up the bottom. No worries about that.

[Packer fan]

On mine I can see the flywheel.
Does that mean that it is non sfi? And if so does that mean that I will not be able to take it to any track ( road coarse or 1/4 mile) ?



Thanks
Jim

I just found out that I can track it this way, just not wheel to wheel.

[edwardb]

On mine I can see the flywheel.
Does that mean that it is non sfi? And if so does that mean that I will not be able to take it to any track ( road coarse or 1/4 mile) ?

Thanks
Jim

You can see the flywheel where? Through the clutch arm opening? Normal. SFI or non-SFI.

[NAZ]

If you plan to drag race your car at an NHRA track and it runs faster than 11.49 then you are required to run a SFI 6.1 (or 6.2 / 6.3) certified bell and the clutch and flywheel will also have to be SFI certified. And it doesn't stop there so if you think you might want to run the 1/4-mile better take a look at the NHRA rules, Section-21 which you can find on NHRARacer.com. They are especially difficult to comply with when running a convertible.

[SSNK4US]

Agreeing with NAZ.... MK4 stock roll bars are 1 1/2” in diameter. NHRA rules require 1 3/4” if I’m not mistaken. So it would be hard to get a MK4 to pass. Even if you went with a Breeze 1 3/4” it’s too short for most people. So IMHO, if you can’t get your roll bar to pass, there’s not much need to get a SFI scatter shield. If you feel safer with a scatter shield (I know I do lol) by all means go for it. Do you need a SFI certified one? Naw... And to be honest 98% of us, ok maybe 95 lol... won’t have the horsepower or turning extreme RPM’s to have an explosion happening in there. Just some random thoughts....

Kurt

Oh, and go Jaguars!

[aspbite]

I haven't modified mine yet, but plan on cutting it similar to this.

102962

[Packer fan]

102964
You can see the flywheel where? Through the clutch arm opening? Normal. SFI or non-SFI.

[Ducky2009]

102964

Looks like you left the backing plate off. A Quicktime has a steel plate behind the flywheel, same diameter as he bell housing. Not sure about the aluminum bell housing. From past experience, bell housings have a sheetmetal cover plate to close the opening... keeping road debris out.

[Packer fan]

It didn’t come with any.
Maybe I will call Mike Forte.
It also doesn’t have any bolt holes on the bottom like I see on the ones with the plates.

The one in Asbites post has a cover but it has holes in it higher up.

[edwardb]

102964


Looks like you left the backing plate off. A Quicktime has a steel plate behind the flywheel, same diameter as he bell housing. Not sure about the aluminum bell housing. From past experience, bell housings have a sheetmetal cover plate to close the opening... keeping road debris out.

Been away all day, so just getting a chance to respond. That's the first thing I noticed with the picture as well. No block plate. Wasn't expecting that. So X2 on Ducky2009's response. Also see you have an aluminum bell so all the discussion and pictures about QuickTime aren't applicable. Unfortunately this is a pretty big deal because you have everything assembled including the engine in the chassis. The bell has to be separated from the engine so it can go between. Typically also will require the flywheel and clutch to be removed, although I don't know what the one for that bell housing looks like. Some can slip behind the installed flywheel. But many just have a hole for the crankshaft and require the flywheel to be removed so it can be placed against the engine block. Since I don't know that style, also don't know what bolts it has along the bottom. Maybe none. It's not SFI rated (an aluminum bell won't be in any case) so likely doesn't have the ring of bolts like the SFI QuickTimes. In addition to covering up the hole you're seeing, the block plate provides the proper spacing for the transmission input shaft into the pilot bearing. Also for the starter motor. Each are now off about 1/8-inch (the thickness of the block plate) which may/may not be a problem. On a side note, and maybe I mentioned this before, an aluminum bell housing is no longer available for the Coyote/T-56 combination. So Mike apparently still had one around. Too bad the block plate was omitted. Kind of a big deal. The only bell housing that I know of for the Coyote/T-56 combination today is the QuickTime RM-8080.

Edit: After writing the above, checked the standard block plate (or starter index plate as Ford is calling it) for the stock Coyote with a manual trans. I have no idea if it fits your setup. But at least this gives you an idea of what we're talking about. If by any chance this one would fit, it doesn't require major disassembly. You can also see, at least for this one, there are no bolts along the bottom. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-7007-A

[Packer fan]

Grrr

[Packer fan]

Just spoke to Mike Forte. He is going to send a blocking plate Monday.
I guess I’m pulling a transmission when I get home. He said I can cut the plate in half and just slide the bell housing off a little and install it. I’m thinking it might be easier to pull the transmission first because the whole thing won’t want to move with the clutch and transmission installed. The car is on a lift and I have a transmission jack.

[Packer fan]

Thanks Edwardb,
The block off plate must be different than the one you had a link too because he is talking about cutting it and that one doesn’t look like I would need to cut it. Do you know if there was a reason they stopped making the aluminum bell housings? Maybe I would be better off just getting a quick time bell housing if there was a reason they don’t make that one anymore.

[magicmarto]

What did you cut the bell housing with? Sawzall?
M

[Packer fan]

The bell housing has not been cut.
Mike F said to cut the scatter shield when I het it in half in order to make it easier to install.