Front turn signal mount

[Packer fan]

The turn signal light housing touches in the middle before the rubber gasket can touch the body.
Should I clearance the center hole in the body so the gasket acts like a gasket end touches the body and the housing.
Second,I saw a picture in the directions that looked like the bracket that came attached to one screw at the front turn signal position and the other end was on the bumper bolts wasn’t installed. I am assuming that it must be installed. Also the holes that were factory drilled for the front turn signal light housing are about 1/16 inch to close together. I just elongated the bottom hole.

[JETAV8R]

I enlarged the center hole so the housing would sit flush.

[CraigS]

Wait a little bit until Capt. O-Ring replies. He has a great solution but I don't know the specifics size.

[Packer fan]

Ok ��

[CDXXVII]

Read here from cap. O-ring

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16970-42-cent-upgrade&p=188006&viewfull=1#post188006

[phileas_fogg]

Like you, I had to oval the holes for the mounting screws, and like JETAV8R I enlarged the center hole so that the housing would sit flush. I also ditched the steel bracket that goes from the quick jack bolts to the turn signal pad; it interfered with my fresh air intake. I read in a Jeff Miller thread long ago that those brackets often have to be massaged so that the plane of the turn signal end lines up with the plane of the body in its final position; he just ditches them. Based on Jeff's information and the fact that loads of cars don't have those brackets, I felt comfortable getting rid of them.


John

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/28304435097_ce3c6c45ed_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/K8aCrF)IMG_4688 (https://flic.kr/p/K8aCrF) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[slpro1207]

It’s the little things that make a difference. Looks like I’m making a trip to True Value. Thanks for reposting Capt. O’Rings (Jeff K.) idea.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The infamous Captain "O" Ring mod won't do anything to help the lamp sit flush to the body, it just hides the gap between the bezel & body (not to mention chapping Miller's a$$ but that's a different story ;)). The holes are generally all undersized so just open up the center as well as the ones for the mounting studs---you'll probably find that the rear is much the same. RE: the "horseshoe" brackets for the front corners...the intent is to stabilize the front but in my opinion they are only minimally effective since they mount to the little #10 studs that are just swedged into the marker light bases. Can't hurt, and I use them when I can (they won't fit around the ABS brake duct boots like the ones shown in John's photo without a lot of cutting/massaging/butchering) but I don't feel that they are crucial. With the fill length quick jack tubes and body grommets that have been standard for the past few years the front is quite secure without them...much more so than the old split tubes that sandwiched the body on earlier Mk4s.

Jeff

[rich grsc]

I thought Miller likes chapped a$$. OH damn that was one of the things we don't talk about.:rolleyes:

[Packer fan]

I just ordered some Orings. I had a tough time finding them locally.

Thanks guys.

[lewma]

Guys, I'm having roughly the same problem. Here's a side shot of the front turn signals

102776

I have enlarged the center hole but the chrome ring does not sit flush with the back of the light so it leaves a pretty big gap. I emailed FFR this morning but they've not replied yet.

mark

[rich grsc]

Yep, thats the way they are made. Been like that for ever, you don't really want the metal ring setting against the paint. If it was, you couldn't remove the lens without scratching the paint.:rolleyes:

[Jeff Kleiner]

Guys, I'm having roughly the same problem. Here's a side shot of the front turn signals

102776

I have enlarged the center hole but the chrome ring does not sit flush with the back of the light so it leaves a pretty big gap. I emailed FFR this morning but they've not replied yet.

mark

See post #5 ;)

Jeff

[lewma]

Dan from FFR replied and said that the lenses could be pushed out and reseated. Saw your reply Jeff, thanks. I'm going to see if I can push out and reseat the lense somehow. Overall a little disappointed with these lights.

[lewma]

Good point rich. We do need little gap there so the lense can be removed. Didn't think of that!

[boat737]

Some others that seem to fit better. I used # RM00770, still has a bit of a gap, but better.

https://jollyrogersmotors.com/store/c/172-MGA.html?pi=5

Also, with a little trimming and messaging, the horseshoes will fit over the intake ducts.