Les’ Nor Cal Wine Country 33 build #1121

[Mrallsport32]

Well thought I would take a minute and start my build thread. I went to Build school exactly one year ago. I was originally going to do a steel body kit and was waiting for one, but as everyone knows now those are not going to happen anytime soon if at all. So I was tired of waiting and changed my order.
My kit was delivered on Sunday 2-10-19. I had plenty of help and we finished the inventory that night. Only missing a few items. My POL was longer than I expected though. I have a Gen 2 chassis and body.
I am doing the following:
Small block Chevy 400.
FI tech dual quad fuel system
700R4 from TCI
IRS with 3:55
Wilwood brakes.
No fenders and no roof.
As you can seeI’m not reinventing anything you guys haven’t already done. I think I have read nearly every thread on the forum and learned a lot. Now if I can just remember what I read. �� I’m still bad at searching for info on the forum. I guess I’m keyboard challenged. So Being retired I plan on finishing with in 364 days, we’ll thats the plan anyway, we’ll see how it goes.
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[NAZ]

Have fun with your build. I thought I'd be ready for paint in six months or so but scope creep kept adding to the time and $$. My wife always tells me that whatever I think it should take and however much I think it should cost -- double it. She's usually right. Took the better part of two-years working 6-8 hrs 7-days a week until it was ready for paint and then the painter's three-week prediction of completion turned into four-months.

So don't get in a hurry and savor the enjoyable parts of the build; don't let the problem areas get you down they are just challenges and opportunities to overcome; and most of all have fun.

[CVOBill]

Congrats and the delivery.

[wrp]

Just dig in and follow your nose. When you hit a brick wall or something doesn't make sense look up all the variable ways the problem was solved, hold your breath and try one of them. At the end of the day, it will be yours.

[TDSapp]

Congratulations on the delivery. My suggestion is to take a ton of pictures along the way and post them here in your build thread. I have done that in mine and people would point out things I was about to come up on. I am also planning on taking the photos and putting them in a book when I am done. It's makes for a nice history for the car later on.

[JimLev]

Congrats and get wrenching. As the others have said post pics and ask questions, you'll be amazed at all the help you'll receive.
Next week will make one year since my 33 was delivered, thought (hoped) it would be done by now.
The body is on along with the pass door.
I hope to update my build thread next week.

[HVACMAN]

Congratulations and welcome to the madness. You will find things get in the way as you make this journey. Just be patient and stay the coarse. It is an amazing experience.

[Mrallsport32]

Ok so here are the pictures as the car arrived. 102518102519102520
The firewall was in a box also I did not receive the foot box parts to the firewall, they are on the POL. But we got plenty to work with. I’m going to powder coat my firewall after I get all the pieces and have had them fitted to the body. I actually think I’m going to be powder coating most of the aluminum.

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Since I never had a gen 1 I don’t know all the differences, besides the ones mentioned by F 5, but it looks good to me.

[FF33rod]

Exciting! Envious of the amount of room you have in your garage!
One of the differences I notice right off the bat with your gen 2, the front lower sides of the engine cover (not sure how else to describe it) are separate pieces and not extensions of the main body. That and the multiple holes for the suspension mounting....
Have fun with inventory!

[AJT '33]

Ok so here are the pictures as the car arrived. 102518102519102520
The firewall was in a box also I did not receive the foot box parts to the firewall, they are on the POL. But we got plenty to work with. I’m going to powder coat my firewall after I get all the pieces and have had them fitted to the body. I actually think I’m going to be powder coating most of the aluminum.

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Since I never had a gen 1 I don’t know all the differences, besides the ones mentioned by F 5, but it looks good to me.

One of the things that iI would suggest for your build is that before you're into getting all the drivetrain suspension and all that "fun" stuff underway, I would highly suggest that you go ahead and fit in the firewall, get the body installed to the frame then get right onto getting the doors, hood and trunk installed. What I have found is that with those core items fitted (no body work or fairing yet) you can better align the whole car, body to frame to doors etc... Whenever I do my next one (most likely the truck for my wife) I will be doing that, because once that is done and the body, doors, hood, trunk are all lined up, the rest is easier. I have had to install, remove and re-install the body so many times because of fit and clearances that I did not know or consider, its not funny, it's all good, but hindsight is 20/20 and it could have been a lot easier. Basically understanding how the body sits will allow you to make better decisions on brake line, fuel lines, wiring and hose routing. Again, just a suggestion.

Regardless you will have fun during your build I am sure!!!

[myjones]

I like the engine choice, the small block 400 is a great powerplant, IMO the best old school small block they made.
One thing to add to AJT's advice on the body. Level the chassis first, side to side then before you fit the firewall level the top of the cowl
so the body is as close to level as possible. Find the rough center of the cowl and mark 2' each side of that, then use a 4' level with blocks
under each end to clear the rounded shape there. Clamp the DS of the body down tight to the chassis and raise the pass side of the body
about 3/16" for a starting point. When the body is level then notch the firewall around the chassis tubes and the little offset on the passenger
side to bring the firewall up to meet the body flange. If you don't level the cowl first you will have one of the hundreds of 33's that look wonky
from the front when it's all done. Go through all the front view pics you can find of the finished 33's and you will see plenty of them where the
body/cowl leans one way and the grille leans the other making an unbalanced look that is hard at first glance to find what's wrong.
Enjoy the build
Dale

[Mrallsport32]

So I got the chassis back from the being powder coated. The color is called bengal silver, it came out great, I took it to them on Tuesday they gave it back to me on Thursday. 102582102583 102584

[Mrallsport32]

I went to head and put on the front and rear suspension. The front suspension went on with no problem except my lower control arms are still on the POL.
The IRS fought me a little bit, the center section front mounts were off only about an 3/16 of an inch but enough to cause a little frustration and then I smiled 🤣 and I got it in ha ha. (We’ll call it a smile for now).
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I also put the rack in, but I don’t have any of the other steering components they are on the POL also.
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So tomorrow when my son gets here we’re going to laser level the chassis again and fit the firewall and body. Then we’ll take the body back off. I don’t have any of the hardware to mount the doors or trunk because they are all on the POL.
After I get the firewall fitted and I receive my lower control arms I’m going to send them out to powder coat. I think I’m going to send most of my aluminum that is exposed to the powder coater also.

One thing I have noticed from looking at pictures on the forum of Gen one chassis, is there appears to be Quite a bit of a differences to the GEN two chassis.
On a sidenote and like all new owners I’m sure, I have talked with Factory Five a couple of times by phone and everybody I’ve talked too have been extremely courteous and helpful.

[FF33rod]

Looking great, good frame colour! The IRS center section was fun trying to get the holes lined up wasn't it! To be honest, mechanically that's been the most difficult thing so far for me - oh, and drilling out the holes in the center section with a hand drill...

[Mrallsport32]

Ok I have a Gen 2 chassis and body. So today with help from my son, or maybe I helped my son I’m not sure which, we fit the firewall and body to the chassis. So how did we get there?, we just set the body on the chassis, all done, ha ha, not quite, but almost. I have to say from all the posts that I have read and all the pictures that I’ve seen the Gen 2 body is very different from the Gen 1.
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We used a laser level to level the chassis. We then clamped the firewall on and used a laser level to level that. They were both that dead even plumb. We placed the body on the chassis the first time and it was actually very close. We then had to trim both sides of the body on the lower firewall area where the firewall fits against the body. The body was hitting the two bars that run down the right and left side of the foot boxes to the lower frame rail. The body also hit the lower frame rail holding it out away from the sides of the firewall. We trimmed those areas so the body could sit flush with the firewall. We again used a few different levels and measuring points along with the laser level. I used a jack to support the rear of the body under the trunk, I had to raise The right rear corner about a quarter of an inch and it appears at that point the body is level and I got the 45.5 perfectly. The body fit the firewall very nice with no modifications needed to the firewall.
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I didn’t have to do the famous notch to take the “wonky out of it”. Also the body is level with the lower frame rail at the front and both sides. So for the first fit we’re calling it good.
Tomorrow I’m going to finish pre-drilling all the holes and and threading the holes as I am using 1/4 20 Button heads to secure The firewall. I’m also sending the firewall out with some other parts to the powder coater.

[Straversi]

Can I ask you what it cost to have the frame powder coated? Did you have to prep the surface or did the powder coated take it as is? Looks great, btw.
-Steve

[Mrallsport32]

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Regarding the powder coating. I took the chassis, all the irs parts, upper control arms, and other bare metal parts to Vaider coatings in Rohnert Park Ca. On Tuesday. They prepared it with some type of media blast and then sprayed it on Wednesday. I got got it back on Thursday. Total cost $750. Dollars. I think it came out pretty good.

[CVOBill]

Looks great and that is a great price on the powder coating.

[progmgr1]

I'm shocked at that price for powder coating! It's 1/2 to 1/3 of what I've been quoted down here in SoCal. I wonder why that is?
Keith

[Mrallsport32]

Well truthfully, I was a bit shocked also, But it came out great. They have a fairly large business with multiple booths to spray in and they have been in that location for over 25 years. So they must be doing something right.

[Mrallsport32]

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So we were messing around with the laser level and found that after we measured everything to make sure it all stayed straight, we saw that the grill was perfect.

[TxMike64]

Ok I have a Gen 2 chassis and body. So today with help from my son, or maybe I helped my son I’m not sure which, we fit the firewall and body to the chassis. So how did we get there?, we just set the body on the chassis, all done, ha ha, not quite, but almost. I have to say from all the posts that I have read and all the pictures that I’ve seen the Gen 2 body is very different from the Gen 1 ... We used a laser level to level the chassis. We then clamped the firewall on and used a laser level to level that. They were both that dead even plumb. We placed the body on the chassis the first time and it was actually very close. We then had to trim both sides of the body on the lower firewall area where the firewall fits against the body. The body was hitting the two bars that run down the right and left side of the foot boxes to the lower frame rail. The body also hit the lower frame rail holding it out away from the sides of the firewall. We trimmed those areas so the body could sit flush with the firewall. We again used a few different levels and measuring points along with the laser level. I used a jack to support the rear of the body under the trunk, I had to raise The right rear corner about a quarter of an inch and it appears at that point the body is level and I got the 45.5 perfectly. The body fit the firewall very nice with no modifications needed to the firewall. ... I didn’t have to do the famous notch to take the “wonky out of it”. Also the body is level with the lower frame rail at the front and both sides...


... So we were messing around with the laser level and found that after we measured everything to make sure it all stayed straight, we saw that the grill was perfect.

As someone who has been holding out for the steel body, and will probably have to settle for the Gen2 glass body -- this GREAT news to hear! I'll be following your build closely!

[Mrallsport32]

I waited two years for the steel body also. I finally gave in and I’m glad I did. As we go through this body and the body parts there really doesn’t appear to be any major amount of adjustments needed, certainly not what I’ve read about with the Gen 1.

[Mrallsport32]

The body has been all fitted and mounted for now. 10355][ATTACH=CONFIG]103559103553103554

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The bottom of the body runs even with the lower frame rails on both sides.

I’m now waiting for door, trunk and hood mounts and other parts that are still on back order. (I had a rather long POL). All the sheet metal has been drilled and waiting to go to powder coater. I have some parts on my back order that I want to take to the powder coater, so I’m still waiting for those to take everything at once.
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New brakes always look so cool.
Still plenty to work on. In the meantime I’ll be in my garage waiting on more parts. 🤣
On a side note, the couple of times that I’ve had to call F5, they have been extremely helpful and very friendly to talk with.

[Mrallsport32]

I haven’t posted because not much has changed. Grandkids and a long Cabo vacation kinda stalled the build for awhile, in a good way though always time for family.
I’m Still waiting on parts from F5. I call every week to check in. I was told due to the redesign of the floor and the door components that They still haven’t got them in production. Maybe someone else with a Gen 2 can let me know if they got them. So I’m waiting on floor pieces, apparently I was sent Gen 1 pieces. The Gen 2 uses foam inserts sandwiched between two aluminum panels. I Still need all the hinges and all of the door components. I have fit everything, just can’t mount them and set all the gaps yet. I was trying to get most of the body work done before putting the engine in.
I did finally get my lower control arms and the lower parts of the firewall. All powder coated and installed.
So we’ll just start assembling and see how it goes. I did get all my aluminum back from powder the coater. Yes I powder coated it all to match the chassis. It looks cool 😎.

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I mounted the firewall for the (I hope) last time with stainless button heads. I really like the look. I Remounted the body for some more fitting of the engine side panels and lower skirts.

I can’t wait to install the engine with the FI tech dual quad fuel set up
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Brakes are all done and look good.
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I can’t wait to install the engine with the FI tech dual quad fuel set up.

[Plimpton]

Did you have any trouble getting the foot boxes into place? I just got my kit inventoried and tried to test fit the foot boxes and couldn’t get them in. Maybe there is a secret!?

[Michael101]

Love the dual quad setup! I’m going that route with the Holley Sniper setup.

Question: I ordered my frame bare so I can powder coat it in body color or something that will work well with the body color. I’d planned on doing quit a bit of pre-fit then disassembly before getting the coating done. But from seeing what you did I’m considering going to coating right away. Have you had to make any frame mods or tweaks that have damaged your powder?

[FF33rod]

Did you have any trouble getting the foot boxes into place? I just got my kit inventoried and tried to test fit the foot boxes and couldn’t get them in. Maybe there is a secret!?

Footboxes are a pain on Gen 1 and I'm sure it's the same for Gen 2. I put them in from the passenger compartment, pushing the top into the engine compartment and up. The top edge is angled outward to line up the cutouts in the top end for the frame. Leave it about an inch or 2 off the firewall and then take the bottom part and "persuade" it over the floor frame to put into place. It actually takes quite a bit of persuasion and you're likely to scratch the frame in the process.

Steve

[Mrallsport32]

I slide them in from the tunnel side from the front, by tipping the top out towards the outside and forward a little. If that makes sense. They went in n out pretty easy for me that way.

[Mrallsport32]

I did not have to make any mods. But I did spend a day doing some quick test fitting, due to the comments on the forum regarding the Gen 1. So I test fit the Firewall, control arms, rear links for IRS. Everything fit, so I took it to the powder coater.

I was going to be one of those guys that builds it all the way up and then takes it apart for final finish, but not now. The only thing that’s coming off is the body for paint, everything else we put on, is with the intention off it staying on.

[Plimpton]

I want to thank you both for responding. Approaching from the cockpit side changed everything and they went right in. I learned a couple valuable lessons...don’t work on the car when you are too tired and the guys on the forum are willing to help even with the simplest of problems. Thanks again

[peterh226]

I have an odd assortment of parts on back order as well. I got the Gen 1 floors (Mine is #1134 Gen 2) but the 34804 is on Back Order. Is this the new style floor? I'll be checking in this week so see the status. I'm going to start smoothing out the body to begin to see how all of this fits together. Anyone see differences in the Gen 2 body as far as symmetry goes? Should I expect the same alignment issues as with the Gen 1?

[TxMike64]

The Gen2 body is SUPPOSED to be much more symmetric, and is SUPPOSED to have much less body work needed...

[Mrallsport32]

I have an odd assortment of parts on back order as well. I got the Gen 1 floors (Mine is #1134 Gen 2) but the 34804 is on Back Order. Is this the new style floor? I'll be checking in this week so see the status. I'm going to start smoothing out the body to begin to see how all of this fits together. Anyone see differences in the Gen 2 body as far as symmetry goes? Should I expect the same alignment issues as with the Gen 1?

Yes I had and still have a large backorder list also. Part number 34804 are the foam core inserts that are sandwiched between the upper and lower aluminum on the new style floor for the GEN 2. I’m still waiting on them.
As far a “symmetry” goes, My body was fit with a laser level to the firewall wall on the frame and really went together quite easily. I did not have to modify the body or the firewall like the Gen 1 to get them to sit level. I have fitted all of the body parts together. The hood was really a piece of cake. The doors and trunk literally took minutes to fit. Now I have not done all of the gaps perfect yet as I am still waiting on parts. I do not have the hood components, the door components or the trunk hinges. They have been revised for the Gen 2 hot rod. I do not want to set all gaps until I have mounted them.
My plan was to do nearly all of the bodywork first and get it prepped for the paint shop, and then have it at the paint shop while I completed installing the engine and other components. Well best laid plans changed.
I then decided to lean my grill back as far as possible. In doing so it made my lower side skirts too short and the engine side panels too tall. If I left the grill standing more up-and-down everything would’ve fit very closely without too many modifications.
I think if I had all of the components from Factory Five to mount everything the major part of my body work would be done. I believe Factory Five was truthful when they stated that there was less bodywork in the Gen 2 hot rod as compared to the Gen 1. At least that’s what it appears to be for me.
I’m going to check in again this week with Factory Five to get an update, if they still don’t have a timeframe for the components and backordered parts I will most likely take my body off and start on making my car roller without the bodywork completed. It’s just not the way I wanted to do it. Oh well, the build goes on.

[ken33]

Well thought I would take a minute and start my build thread. I went to Build school exactly one year ago. I was originally going to do a steel body kit and was waiting for one, but as everyone knows now those are not going to happen anytime soon if at all. So I was tired of waiting and changed my order.
My kit was delivered on Sunday 2-10-19. I had plenty of help and we finished the inventory that night. Only missing a few items. My POL was longer than I expected though. I have a Gen 2 chassis and body.
I am doing the following:
Small block Chevy 400.
FI tech dual quad fuel system
700R4 from TCI
IRS with 3:55
Wilwood brakes.
No fenders and no roof.
As you can seeI’m not reinventing anything you guys haven’t already done. I think I have read nearly every thread on the forum and learned a lot. Now if I can just remember what I read. �� I’m still bad at searching for info on the forum. I guess I’m keyboard challenged. So Being retired I plan on finishing with in 364 days, we’ll thats the plan anyway, we’ll see how it goes.
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have fun !

[peterh226]

I’m working about the same way. Bodywork first and the the rest. F5 hoped to start filling these back orders soon, you folks will get yours before I do.
The floor had to be cut off site due to the foam core.

[Plimpton]

I see you mounted the front upper control arms to the lower holes on the frame tabs. I assume you will do the lowers the same way. I think the two hole tab is new for Gen 2. I can’t find where (or if) the manual addresses which hole should be used and why. How did you decide to use the lowers?

[sethmark]

I see you mounted the front upper control arms to the lower holes on the frame tabs. I assume you will do the lowers the same way. I think the two hole tab is new for Gen 2. I can’t find where (or if) the manual addresses which hole should be used and why. How did you decide to use the lowers?

‘The suspension has two sets of holes. The top set is for the Hot Rod while the bottom set is for the Truck.’

[TxMike64]

‘The suspension has two sets of holes. The top set is for the Hot Rod while the bottom set is for the Truck.’

I question that because the truck uses a different chassis...

[sethmark]

I question that because the truck uses a different chassis...

Its right out of the April revision build manual. I have to assume they’re building one bracket set to use on either Frame.

[FF33rod]

They definitely try to get as much volume as possible for each component to drive costs lower, only makes sense

[Plimpton]

They definitely try to get as much volume as possible for each component to drive costs lower, only makes sense

I am installing the front suspension on my Gen2 now and I was closely following some of the Gen2 threads. When I saw some of Mallrallsport32's photos, I was curious because this could be an important issue and I can not find it addressed in the Revision 3A, March 2019 '33 Hot Rod Assembly Manual (latest PDF version I have). I also sent (concurrently to my post here) a query to F5 tech support (tech@factoryfive.com) about this. The verbatim answer I got from them was..."The upper holes are for standard ride height, the lower holes are for full fender applications which need more ride height".

[japollon]

I've been sort of watching your build progress and love all the stuff you are doing to the car. Looks like very quality work so far. I am right up the road from you in Petaluma and just finishing up my 289 FIA roadster. Maybe when it's done, I'll drive it over to see you!!! Joel

[Mrallsport32]

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I put the engine and transmission in today. I Used Billet specialties pulleys and alternator mount. Stewart aluminum long water pump. We went with the Holley sniper intake for the FI tech dual quad setup. The sbc long block I got is an aluminum headed all forged full roller. It should do. Insert smile here.
I had to clearance the area for the 700R4 near rear mount as I spaced the engine back 1/2”. 107889
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Polished up the radiator mounts
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[Michael101]

Oh man, that should put out enough horsepower to keep a smile on your face! Nice looking setup.

[peterh226]

I just received the Revision 3B April 2019 Hot Rod assembly manual - printed version!!.
on Page 36 it says "The top set is for the Hot Rod while the bottom set is for the Truck. "

At the rear (I'm running the 3-link) there are upper and lower mounts for the lower control arm as well.

Since I'm running full fenders, the comments you received would affect me as well.

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Update
For 33 with fenders use the lower ones all around. Starting point for suspension tuning.

[Mrallsport32]

Polished up the hood hinges and installed them today.
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[Mrallsport32]

I Got the floor in today. It went pretty fast and was very simple to do, 141 rivets later. I powder coated all my aluminum almost don’t want to cover it.
I’m now plan on applying the dynaliner to the inside of the firewall and then start mounting and running wires.

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[crspdsk8]

Build is looking great!! I haven't been on here for a long time but finally had some down time to jump on here. I need to take a drive in my 33 & come down to see this in person soon. Great seeing you guys in Reno.

[peterh226]

I had to use the upper holes for the lower control arm to get the arm to be able to droop - no choice. I used the Upper holes for the Upper control arm to have the Radiator mount OK. I did use the lower hole on the upper shock mount which will raise the ride height a little bit.

Back to using the lower hole with some rubber between the bolt head and the frame. Will continue to try and figure out the best settings.

[Mrallsport32]

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So, I’ve had my hood hinges on my car for months just never hooked them up to the hood, just had them mounted to the radiator mounts. It was easier working on the car without the hood on. The other day I thought I’d check to make sure they work And found out they weren’t even close. So I modified them and got them closer. The lower strap from FF5 appears short. I Made a new lower stainless strap for the mount and it kinda works . Anybody else mount the Gen 2 hinges to a 33 grill...?.
You can see the strap I made on the other hinge in the background. This is as close as I can get them.
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I was thinking of just drilling another hole and mount them higher, Any thoughts?.
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[Michael101]

Man I had/have that exact issue. I sent photos to FF and was told to “adjust my grille” which wasn’t possible since I’d already fitted all of my front body panels.

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[Mrallsport32]

Thanks, I’m still waiting for their reply. I think, You would have to move the grill so far out that the hood would probably be too short anyway. Also just like you, I don’t want to move my grill as I already have everything else all done the hood, engine side panels, and lower skirts were modified and fit.

[Mrallsport32]

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So my steering with the electric assist on my Gen 2 is not smooth. It’s turns fine and then has stiffer spots as if its going to bind. I’ve taken it apart numerous times now and moved universal joints around, checked all the shafts. I read a few posts about it, but I’ve had no luck.
I took the shaft loose from the firewall and held it out straighter and I can turn it by hand with no feeling of binding at all. It appears the u joint that goes into the electric assist is at too much of an angle. I’m looking at getting a double u joint. Any advice?.
Also can someone tell what size the spline is on the electric assist. I think it’s 17mm?..spline??

My day of whining is over.....simple things sometimes are the most frustrating...haha.

[sethmark]

First place to start in my mind is eliminate the box as the trouble spot... straight d shaft out of box and turn. If it’s smooth it’s joints.

[peterh226]

I found the same thing. Smooth but stiffens up at points. I moved stuff around and it did not make any difference. I'm figuring that once I get tires on it, the weight of the car, andthe electric steering operational that I either will not notice it or it will be minor enough to get on with life. Not sure what I could do to change anything. Maybe space the power steering off the mount and closer to the rack? Maybe I'll give that a try...

[Mrallsport32]

I found the same thing. Smooth but stiffens up at points. I moved stuff around and it did not make any difference. I'm figuring that once I get tires on it, the weight of the car, andthe electric steering operational that I either will not notice it or it will be minor enough to get on with life. Not sure what I could do to change anything. Maybe space the power steering off the mount and closer to the rack? Maybe I'll give that a try...

That’s what I thought, so I did try using spacers and different angles spacing it off the mount. But what I found, is it had to be at too great of an angle off of the mount, and then the front u joint hit the lower bar in front of the electric assist unit, also increasing those u joint angles.
For me, it appears the entire mount would need to be cut and moved up at a different angle.
Thanks

[1932]

You should try to stay about 30 degrees on joint angle. I have coyote so one more bearing.

[Mrallsport32]

Ok slow going lately with the build.
I changed the front end. Ie..Different grill angle, control arms moved to upper mount holes. This was after I already had the front end pretty much done. What I found was, with using the lower control arm mounts along with the extremely tilted grill, it angled the hood down too much from the cowl and made the body line appear bent to me. I had also already made extensions for my lower side skirts and modified the engine side panels, so I could have that big slope to the grill that I liked. Well best laid plans, in the end I didn’t like the look.
So now I have a brand New hood, side panels and lower skirts in my garage, ready to go and start all over. As a side note, I just did some preliminary measuring, and it appears the new side panels will need to be modified in height also.

On with the build. The cool new stuff.
New all custom exhaust was built and installed by my friend, who owns Johnny Franklins exhaust in San Rafael Ca. It looks friggin great. I will take it out and have it coated after we run in the engine.
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New rims and tires finally arrived. $$$$. I splurged and had some Rims custom made. 💲💲
Rears are 19x12 with 345/30/19 Toyo Proxes r888r. Fronts are 18x8 225/40/18. 4” backspace 117848
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117850 my grandson likes the new rims.
So I could theoretically finish the fuel lines and a few other things to go kart it, but the painter is coming over next week I want to get it into paint sooner then later. I will then bring the chassis back home and finish all the little things while he works on the paint. I hope, we’ll see how it goes. Or maybe I’ll just have to go play more golf with this nor cal weather holding out. 🤣😂👍

.

[sethmark]

Wheels are HOT.

[Mrallsport32]

.
Also, my son was at SEMA last week and talked with Jim from Factory Five. my son showed him some pictures of my build. Jim was very helpful, he is the director of R & D.
So I received an email from Jim the other day. He is sending me, new hood hinges, door striker mounts and the steering bind fix for the Gen 2. Apparently the same hinges don’t work with the different year grills on the Gen 2., Maybe it’s the grills Different angles I don’t know.
Anyway we’re moving forward.
It’s too nice of a day to be in the garage, off to the golf course. Haha
.
.117853

[peterh226]

What’s the steering bind fix? I got some late hood hinges so maybe they are ok.

[Bgardner]

Exhaust and rims are great

[tony]

very cool!

[TxMike64]

Wheels look badass!

[Mrallsport32]

What’s the steering bind fix? I got some late hood hinges so maybe they are ok.

Apparently they are twisting the D shaft 90 degrees and that’s supposed to take the bind out of the steering shaft universal that most of the Gen 2’s are experiencing with the electric assist.
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[peterh226]

Apparently they are twisting the D shaft 90 degrees and that’s supposed to take the bind out of the steering shaft universal that most of the Gen 2’s are experiencing with the electric assist.
117909

I checked the clocking of the I-joint into and out of the power steering to make sure they were 90 degrees different and it reduced the binding a lot. Still a tiny bit but once it’s on the ground I doubt I will notice. So, much better and an easy fix.

[Mrallsport32]

I got a few messages for pictures of How the exhaust was routed. I will eventually take it off and have it all dip coated after the engine is run in.

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[Mrallsport32]

I checked the clocking of the I-joint into and out of the power steering to make sure they were 90 degrees different and it reduced the binding a lot. Still a tiny bit but once it’s on the ground I doubt I will notice. So, much better and an easy fix.

FYI
I got the steering fix from FF. It is the D Shaft that goes from the firewall down to the back of the electric assist. They milled each end so the D shape is opposite (90*) on each end. I Put it in and the steering is very smooth and completely free of any bind at All.

[Michael101]

I have a set of test hood hinges on the way from FF to see if they might have a solution in mind. I sent them a shot of the temporary fix that Ikd come up with and FF thinks that the hinge set from the new speedstar may work.
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[Mrallsport32]

]
I have a set of test hood hinges on the way from FF to see if they might have a solution in mind. I sent them a shot of the temporary fix that Ikd come up with and FF thinks that the hinge set from the new speedstar may work.
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I was going to make a wedge like the one you show also. Then when my son Was at SEMA, he talked with Jim, (from F5), about the hinge issue. He is now sending me new/different hinges to try. They’re enroute now via fedex. So we’ll see.
I see your radiator mounts are slightly different then mine also. It looks like you cut off the upper tab.
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[Michael101]

]
I see your radiator mounts are slightly different then mine also. It looks like you cut off the upper tab.
118631

Well that’s interesting, no I haven’t cut anything off of mine. Any idea what that upper tab is for?

[Mrallsport32]

Well that’s interesting, no I haven’t cut anything off of mine. Any idea what that upper tab is for?

I’m not sure. Maybe an option for mounting headlights?.

[FF33rod]

I believe it is for the headlights. If not, where else do they attach?

[shmelty]

Looking Great!! Where did you source the SBC 400?

[Mrallsport32]

Looking Great!! Where did you source the SBC 400?

I had a long block built by blueprint. All forged full roller.

[Mrallsport32]

A little update: because it was too cold to golf today.

So, I Cut and resized my engine side panels, yes again, as I changed the angle and height of the grill, yes again. Haha.
It is starting to look like a car though. I am now looking for some sort of oval vents for the side panels. Then Hopefully it will be off to the paint shop soon. We’ll see, I’ll probably change something else if I stare at it long enough. Haha. And the build goes on.

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[FF33rod]

First, your shop is far too clean. I clearly need to spend a number of hours cleaning mine.

Second, you mention vents. JimLev's build thread has a few comments on the one's he's using which look great. That is one of the options I'm considering. The other option (and the one my wife favours) are Buick "ventiports" which I saw on a 33 somewhere but darned if I can find the pic again. However, these don't seem to be open so they would be purely cosmetic unless I modified them.

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=284
120628

Is that along the lines of what you were thinking. I believe they are available in different proportions too depending on the model year of buick, some longer and skinnier...

Steve

[Mrallsport32]

Thanks, Those are nice, but I want functional vents to let some engine heat escape. I haven’t picked out any particular ones yet Still looking.

I like these, but have no idea where to obtain them.
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[FF33rod]

Those look great too but they don't really look functional either to me - there's a screen but looks like the mesh is filled in, not open.

[Mrallsport32]

First, your shop is far too clean. I clearly need to spend a number of hours cleaning mine.

Second, you mention vents. JimLev's build thread has a few comments on the one's he's using which look great. That is one of the options I'm considering. The other option (and the one my wife favours) are Buick "ventiports" which I saw on a 33 somewhere but darned if I can find the pic again. However, these don't seem to be open so they would be purely cosmetic unless I modified them.

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=284
120628

Is that along the lines of what you were thinking. I believe they are available in different proportions too depending on the model year of buick, some longer and skinnier...

Steve

Actually now, after looking around on the interwebs, I’m liking the Buick portholes. They can be easily modified to be opened up and functional to allow heat to escape.

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Note: also the not so clean part of my shop was hidden behind the camera. Haha.

[FF33rod]

Yeah, sounds like you emailed them as did I. They said no problem.... Think that's what I've settled on...

[Mrallsport32]

So Not much has really changed on my car lately. I’m kinda of waiting for the car to go to the paint shop, which should be in a couple of weeks hopefully.
Thought some levity is needed in these times, as we are quarantined here in Northern California. They even shut down my golf course. 🤣
I hope everyone stays safe.

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[cob427sc]

The brake cleaner works fine but the (acetone) really dries out my skin. Maybe rub in some good old #90 differential oil for moisturizer.

[Mrallsport32]

So I had my car ready for the body shop in January.
130158[/ATTACH
The plan was To take it in to paint shop, then when the body came back off for The finish work, I would bring the chassis back home to complete wiring and go kart it. Well best laid plans didn’t work out. The body shop got backed up and couldn’t take the car in , which he apologized for, and then the pandemic hit. So the car sat, thinking it would be any week for it to go to the shop. That didn’t happen.
So, now I have taken my car back Completely apart with the body off to complete all the wiring/plumbing and fix some other things I didn’t like. Boy I never realized how much I dislike wiring and I have it simple compared to most. Haha.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]130159.

[JOP33]

Wiring builds character! :rolleyes:

[FF33rod]

I'd happily do the wiring for someone if they in turn do the body fitting, void filling, hardtop fitting and power windows.... Hmmm, now that I say it, it does sound a little lop sided....

[Mrallsport32]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17G1BvagSVSmSPm-iEXSXjP9D2n-Prxw0/view?usp=drivesdk

So I got the SBC 400 up and running. It wasn’t without some issues. I had trouble matching the holly sniper dual quad to the aluminum heads. First the intake Flange wasn’t near being straight. Then the intake runners were not big enough to cover Head intake runners which are 2.23 tall. So I had a machine shop add material on the top edge and Re-size and then re-deck the Flanges to square. But I have to say, it did fire right up. The FI tech seems to be programming itself with no problems or leaks anywhere. So far so good.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Gzq2hzS0fk7SSyBX7avCdWoA

[JimLev]

Sounds excellent, nice idle.
What cam are you using?

[sethmark]

I hear a little Tim the tool man!

that exhaust is absurd. So throaty....

[sread]

All I see is "access denied"

[33fromSD]

Sounds great....Do you have to sync / balance the dual Fi-Techs somehow or is it controlled?..... electronically?

Also, what brand are the quad exhaust tips? Looks like my stock ones on my a C6 vette?

Big moment, great job!!

[JimLev]

All I see is "access denied"

The second link works.
First link looks like it wasn’t made public.

[Mrallsport32]

Sounds excellent, nice idle.
What cam are you using?

Welp, I was looking for the cam card and couldn’t find it. It’s nothing too radical just a little more duration in the cam. I’m an old circle track racer and our machinist always liked big duration in his cam to help with our Torque monster engines. When I find the cam card I’ll post it.

[Mrallsport32]

Sounds great....Do you have to sync / balance the dual Fi-Techs somehow or is it controlled?..... electronically?

Also, what brand are the quad exhaust tips? Looks like my stock ones on my a C6 vette?

Big moment, great job!!
I Don’t have to do anything with the FI Tech system. They plug into each other and the built in computer system is self learning. so far (fingers crossed) it seems to be working fine. It has a little hand held type controller that is about the size of an IPhone that shows me everything. I can also do any tuning with it.

Also, what brand are the quad exhaust tips? Looks like my stock ones on my a C6 vette?

Welp, I’m not sure what those exhaust tips are from. A good friend owns a very well known and Long established exhaust shop(s) hear in nor. Cal. (Johnny Franklins Mufflers). I just dropped the car off at his shop saw those tips on the wall and left the rest up to him. I had no other input on the exhaust at all, he custom made the whole system. The best part is he wouldn’t give me a bill. A lot of people have said they look like the vett.

[33fromSD]

I Don’t have to do anything with the FI Tech system. They plug into each other and the built in computer system is self learning. so far (fingers crossed) it seems to be working fine. It has a little hand held type controller that is about the size of an IPhone that shows me everything. I can also do any tuning with it.

Also, what brand are the quad exhaust tips? Looks like my stock ones on my a C6 vette?

Welp, I’m not sure what those exhaust tips are from. A good friend owns a very well known and Long established exhaust shop(s) hear in nor. Cal. (Johnny Franklins Mufflers). I just dropped the car off at his shop saw those tips on the wall and left the rest up to him. I had no other input on the exhaust at all, he custom made the whole system. The best part is he wouldn’t give me a bill. A lot of people have said they look like the vett.

Nice..... I have the Holley Sniper System on the my 70 Challenger...just single carb though, but similar with the programmable handheld. Good to know they plug and play together and the ECU does all the syncing.

The exhaust is really nice...sounds great too. Nice job!!

[Mrallsport32]

Welp, I finally got the car into the body shop. I’ve been waiting since February. Now It’s Kinda weird with no hotrod in the garage. Anyway With the COVID (bs) and fires here in California stuff got backed up.

[Mrallsport32]

Last picture before it went to the body and paint shop.

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[Mrallsport32]

Ok, so, this is the, I haven’t posted in a while post. Hot rod went in to the body shop in Sonoma Ca. on September 20th, 2020. Today is May 22, 2021 and we (they)finally started final assembly before coming apart for paint. And yes, I made some changes while it was at the shop, also with COVID era things seem to take longer. But I’m very happy with the way it’s coming together. Pictures are with everything in place just not all tightened or lined up yet.
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[RoadRacer]

Dang 8 months must be tough to deal with. But looks good!

[HotrodMike]

Congrats on your start of the build, I will be starting in about 30 days. My kit is scheduled for delivery toward end of June. I look forward to following your build!!

[Brastic]

Any updates? I am looking for an excuse to drive up to your area in my Hot Rod. When you get the car back from paint and do not mind a social distance visit from a fellow hot rodder, I would love to drive up.

[Mrallsport32]

Any updates? I am looking for an excuse to drive up to your area in my Hot Rod. When you get the car back from paint and do not mind a social distance visit from a fellow hot rodder, I would love to drive up.

159019
No real update. The shop my car is at closed three different times due to employees getting sick from COVID.
Last week the car came apart for paint. Hopefully see some color the beginning of January. As soon as it’s done I’ll post it. Then come on up.

[Indigo808]

I have really enjoyed your build. I have a similar SBC underway with a 700r4. I believe I saw a side view of your transmission in one of your 2020 posts. It looks as if you have a short transmission dipstick and tube. I have been looking for something like this. Do you recall the brand? Has it been working ok? These seem to keep the firewall cleaner. Most of the standard ones I see are almost too long for these cars. Thanks.

[Ltngdrvr]

I have really enjoyed your build. I have a similar SBC underway with a 700r4. I believe I saw a side view of your transmission in one of your 2020 posts. It looks as if you have a short transmission dipstick and tube. I have been looking for something like this. Do you recall the brand? Has it been working ok? These seem to keep the firewall cleaner. Most of the standard ones I see are almost too long for these cars. Thanks.

Look at Lokar for the dipstick.

[Brastic]

I was driving through the Napa area this weekend and was thinking of your build. Actually, I have been attending the Breakfast Club Rallys in Sonoma and have been really enjoying driving the hot rod through Northern California. Once you are on the road, it would be great to see another hot rod. So far, with all of the drives and shows I have been attending, I have been the only one.

[Mrallsport32]

The transmission dipstick is from lokar. It works fine. Part# Loktd3700tm

[Mrallsport32]

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[Mrallsport32]

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[Mrallsport32]

The car is pretty much done. There is just a few things to do.

This is how I picked the color, it’s the hand soap in my garage.
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The Paint really looks much better in person. The pearl in the paint doesn’t show up in the pictures.
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[Mrallsport32]

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[Mrallsport32]

Like a lot of guys I got one of the twisted doors that I couldn’t make fit satisfactory. factory five was able to send me a new one right away. I then used the twisted door as a test for the first paint spray out. So I decided to hang the test door in the shop with stickers from all the different manufacturers parts I used on the build.

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[Mrallsport32]

I was driving through the Napa area this weekend and was thinking of your build. Actually, I have been attending the Breakfast Club Rallys in Sonoma and have been really enjoying driving the hot rod through Northern California. Once you are on the road, it would be great to see another hot rod. So far, with all of the drives and shows I have been attending, I have been the only one.


The hot rod is in Idaho right now I’m bringing it back in July.

[progmgr1]

I like your use of the spare door, but where's the Factory Five Racing sticker:rolleyes:? (They used to pass them out at car shows, etc. They might send you one if you ask nicely.)
Keith HR #894

[Mrallsport32]

I like your use of the spare door, but where's the Factory Five Racing sticker:rolleyes:? (They used to pass them out at car shows, etc. They might send you one if you ask nicely.)
Keith HR #894

Haha got it 168055

[progmgr1]

Hmmm? Different from what I'd seen before. Maybe FFR has a whole series of them. Very cool, in any case.
Keith HR #894

[Fman]

Great looking hot rod, that color combo is fantastic! Hope you are enjoying and putting some miles on it.

[FF33rod]

Looking fantastic Les, inside and out! Love the idea of using the spare door for stickers - was wondering what I was going to do with both of those!

Steve

[Mrallsport32]

It’s registered and on the road.

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[Mrallsport32]

Well it is a wine country build. Haha

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[Mastertech5]

The lower holes are also for the full fendered Hot Rod. That's what it says in my manual. I picked my kit up on June 10th,2022

[Cobra415]

Hi there, I’m new to the forum and noticed you’re in wine county. I’m out in Rohnert Park and trying to connect with other locals who have done this process before I start myself. Mind if I got your email to ask you a few questions and your suggestions!?

[Mrallsport32]

Hi there, I’m new to the forum and noticed you’re in wine county. I’m out in Rohnert Park and trying to connect with other locals who have done this process before I start myself. Mind if I got your email to ask you a few questions and your suggestions!?

Sorry I’m not on the forum as much. I’m in Cotati. I sent you my email

[Mrallsport32]

196314
196315
Getting ready to go to Idaho for the Boise Roadster show.