Frame tweaks before powder coat

[JohnK]

We now have the body and sheet metal off of the chassis and are cleaning up the frame in preparation for powder coat. I've made a few small tweaks to the frame already:

- Cut off upper (unused) passenger side gas tank mount
- Cut off e-brake handle mount, as I'll be going with an E-Stopp parking brake. With the mount out of the way, I can cover up the hole in the trans tunnel wall sheet metal

I've also considered but ruled out the following mods:

- Trans tunnel brace mods for mid-shift. I considered this, but ultimately decided I actually prefer the period-correct look of the rear shifter location
- Redesign of the cross braces that are in the way of the drop trunk mod. That's more than I'm comfortable doing. I'll do the drop trunk and just deal with the braces.

Things that I'm considering doing:

- Cutting off the two e-brake cable brackets that are welded into the trans tunnel. They're not in the way of any sheet metal like the handle mount bracket was, but I see no reason to leave them on the frame. Any good arguments for or against removing them?
- Cutting off the two short 3/4" radiator mount tubes. I'm 50/50 on doing the Breeze upper hinged radiator mount. I already have it, along with the Breeze shroud and Breeze lower radiator mount. After looking at everything, I'm not sure if the upper hinged mount is really necessary if doing the Breeze lower mount.


I also just received my front lower control arms and spherical bearing upgrade material yesterday, so I'll be assembling all the front and rear control arms with the new bearings and testing-fitting them in their respective mounts to see if any of the mounting tabs need aligning.

I'd love all input on any of the above, along with any other suggestions for frame tweaks.

Thanks,
John

[Ian G]

Hi- I would suggest welding in some grounding studs in a few places. One near the battery, near the starter, a couple in the area under the dash. I would also check how your seats mount. You might need new metal to bolt the seats or mounts to. You can't use the sheet aluminum to mount the seats.
Ian G.

[Jacob McCrea]

Maybe weld in a dead pedal and a clutch travel stop? I am glad I did both on my Gen II coupe.

[JohnK]

Thank you both for the suggestions. I should have clarified upfront that I don't weld. I'd love an excuse to buy a welder, but I don't got those skillz. I do plan to add a dead pedal and foot-operated headlight dimmer switch, but those brackets (along with most other brackets I fabricate and add) will get installed with rivnuts. Same with grounding points - I'll either drill and tap into the larger frame members or add rivnuts to the smaller frame members for grounding points. For the seats I'm planning to use the Breeze angled seat mounts. Those look like they rivet in place. My only area of concern around seat mounting is that I'd like to use the harness crotch strap so I'll need to take a look at good anchor points for that. I appreciate the suggestions though... keep 'em coming please.

[Mark Reynolds]

Cut out the FFR hood hinge brackets and use the Breeze traditional hood hinge kit instead.

[JohnK]

One more quick question for folks... on an uncoated frame, would you fit/drill the aluminum panels before or after powder caoting the frame? the benefit of doing it before is that I could really dial in panel fit, including massaging any welds that are in the way. The potential downside is that I'm afraid I'd have to clean PC out of every single hole I drilled afterward.

[edwardb]

One more quick question for folks... on an uncoated frame, would you fit/drill the aluminum panels before or after powder caoting the frame? the benefit of doing it before is that I could really dial in panel fit, including massaging any welds that are in the way. The potential downside is that I'm afraid I'd have to clean PC out of every single hole I drilled afterward.

That probably covers the advantages and disadvantages. I'd probably lean toward PC first. Whatever welds you need to massage, which won't be that many, will by definition be covered by the panels. I've only ever had factory PC. So when that happens, I just hit them with a little matching paint and rivet the panel on. Usually never to be seen again, but won't rust.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you drill before PC you'll have to drill the coating out afterwards.

Jeff

[JohnK]

Thank you both!

[Sdonnel]

I welded in some supports for the rear bar that the seat belts are routed over. Way too soft for my taste. I also welded in plates in front of the floor pans where the seat pans are. I like knowing it won't just be .040" aluminum protecting my legs. Trunk was cut and modified to use the Russ Thompson pan and it turned out great. Chassis uses 3/4" x 1/16" (or so) tubing. All my tube changes used 1/8" wall tubing. All told, I added about 15 lbs to the weight of the chassis. All this was done prior to powder coat. All panels were drilled prior to coating as well. I simply spent some time running a drill through each hole that wouldn't accept the rivet. Not a big deal, but others do it differently. For me, I didn't want to take the chance of slipping and putting a scratch on a panel that would be out in the open. Don't stress about it and enjoy the build.

Scott