Power steer set up problems.

[KeithY]

Hi Everybody,

I'm sure I can't be the only one who has faced this problem.

I have a blueprint 306 engine with installed power steering pump.

The rack and hoses came from factory five.

The rack was a pain to get to sit in the chassis but I managed.

Fitting the hoses is a whole different ball game. Without instructions I assume that the two ports on the pump and rack with the red plugs had to be plumbed to each other. Difficult to arrange the line but got it situated. How ever I have tightened the nuts as far as I can but the tubing still is loose and rotates. I am sure that this will leak as soon as the pump spins up.

The return line between the nipple on the pump and blue fitting on the rack will not fit no matter how I position it as it is interfered with by the other fittings or the chassis member

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Do I need to contact Factory five or just source better parts from an auto store.

Keith

[Railroad]

Mount the line from the other side. First you just want to find a position that will let the threads start. Then look at which way the hard line will need to be bent to work. Being the low pressure/return line you can cut some of the metal line off, if needed.

[jrcuz]

Hi Keith I beleive those connections are designed to be "loose", mine are and no leaks.
JR

[TexasAviator]

Power steering rack installed. Got quite a few things planned for this and I will come back and update this post when I get more pump and lines installed.

Power steering rack installed, sold the manual rack.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4764/25087422047_94778c2571.jpg (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4764/25087422047_ed7db3c401_h.jpg)

Updated July 8th 2018 I used a kit from ebay that was about 150 bucks for the pulley, the bracket and the belt. All were purchased separately but from the same buyer. The belt was 57.3 gates brand done in the v coniguration. I may later do the S configuration to get more bite on the pulley but for now this is working great.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/839/43282564421_9ec34b5939.jpg (https://farm1.staticflickr.com/839/43282564421_11a372e6af_h.jpg)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/42564364934_9ddee1f5a2.jpg (https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/42564364934_d5dc9af79b_h.jpg)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/42378775975_43ea2f8d21.jpg (https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/42378775975_17f6ca7143_h.jpg)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1762/41472740020_9e3b31f74d.jpg (https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1762/41472740020_d43f743c0a_h.jpg)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/42564379434_47782e9826.jpg (https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/42564379434_8a355e903e_h.jpg)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/42564479254_188c469b06.jpg (https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/42564479254_4f5a4b88ee_h.jpg)


hope this helps some.

[MPTech]

My personal recommendation is scrap the hoses you're currently fighting, Install a Heidt's Valve (you'll thank yourself later) and make custom braided lines.
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I did this after I had about 15k miles on my build and wish I had done it earlier.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Spend a hundred bucks with Mark at Breeze and save yourself a whole lot of frustration. Here's your shopping list:

75016 & 21514 P.S. fittings $41.00
21550 6AN 90 degree hose fitting $18.50
(2) 21548 6AN straight hose fittings $17.00
21102 Braided Teflon hose (4 ft) $21.16

You're welcome :)

Jeff

[RJD]

How ever I have tightened the nuts as far as I can but the tubing still is loose and rotates. I am sure that this will leak as soon as the pump spins up.


They are supposed to be loose. I verified this with FF5 when I was at this point in my kit. No leaks so far.

[TexasAviator]

Sorry, I missed the part about them being loose.

They are supposed to be, do not tighten over a quarter turn or about 20 inch lbs. The little nylon washer will crush. They should be loose and I have had them on for 6 months or so. No leaks. I too had them backwards the first time, but after you mess with them a bit you can see from my pics, which end goes to the pump.

Good luck. Its nice to be able to go to any parts store and get the hoses for 15 bucks if you ever have one go bad. I added an oil cooler from summit on the low pressure side. Has been great as well, no leaks.

[Mark Dougherty]

the fittings have an o-ring inside them.
so the nut should be tight, and the line will still swivel.

[CraigS]

A double check for you.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7867/46799733181_edddca9879_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eiwScp)PS rack adjuster (https://flic.kr/p/2eiwScp) by craig stuard (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152454123@N04/), on Flickr
IN being the high pressure line from the pump. OUT being the return to the reservoir.

[KeithY]

Thanks everybody for your advise. I followed Jeff Kleiners advise and bought from Mark at Breeze. Mark helped me make the right choices for my preferred layout. Looks so much better than the cheap parts from FFR and it went together so easily. $126 well spent

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[RJD]

That does look good. Coincidentally, I ordered the same set up yesterday from Breeze. Your original post caused me to rethink my FF5 lines which I wasn't happy with. So, thank you.

[KeithY]

Finished off by cable tying the two lines together twice just past the x member to make sure the return line stayed away from the steering column. I will look for a better solution for that this week

[Mark Reynolds]

Keith,

Thanks for posting the photos. Looks like we could have gotten away with two straight hose ends at the rack.
By the way there is no need for a hose clamp on the pushlock hose at the rack (for others watching - that was customer supplied). It also appears way over-tightened as the rubber is extruding through the slots in the clamp. I would remove that clamp. There is a clamp on the hose at the reservoir return because the fitting on the return is a simple hose retention barb and not specifically made to grip a pushlock hose.

[jlfernan]

Don't know if you are aware of this but just in case, a reminder. You need to trim the rear adjuster on your upper control arms in order to obtain the required caster angle for power steering. The stock adjuster sleeve is intended for the manual rack.

[ckrueger]

I cut the the nose (tappered end of adjuster) to just back into the flat hex part of the adjuster on both ends and ended up having no problem getting the proper amount of castor. I have a Coyote so the pump is on the other side of the motor, but also di my own braided lines and fittings. Worked great.

[CraigS]

I have been able to get to 6.5 caster on a couple of MkIVs w/o cutting the sleeves. this is at the bottom end of good # for PS but does work.

[FLPBFoot]

Don't know if you are aware of this but just in case, a reminder. You need to trim the rear adjuster on your upper control arms in order to obtain the required caster angle for power steering. The stock adjuster sleeve is intended for the manual rack.

Jorge,

How much do you need to trim off the rear adjusters? Did you trim each end? Is that adjuster threaded all the way thru? You use a hack saw and then have to clean out the threads?

thanks

Steve

[Avalanche325]

Finished off by cable tying the two lines together twice just past the x member to make sure the return line stayed away from the steering column. I will look for a better solution for that this week

Hose separators. All sizes finishes and colors. You can also put a longer bolt in them and use them as mounts.
Like this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-68320

[Brian76]

This is the first I've read about needing to trim adjusters. Can you elaborate?