3D printed parts

[totem]

3D printing is my latest project!

I would like to share with you some parts that I've designed and printed for my FFR:

Grommet for shoulder holes of Kirkey 47-series tall back aluminium seat
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424206
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/11/8b/94/73/6f/16215ccfa6bb74264119f1817acd500b_preview_featured. jpg

Steering wheel trim for dash of the Factory Five Roadster Mk4 car kit
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424193
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/d7/b8/f6/2f/86/c031faba4ba24e8410f45c6521c845ec_preview_featured. jpg

Door latch spacer
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424200
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/27/c7/b4/7c/64/8b92bb831ea8463fde51f8aef0c013d1_preview_featured. jpg

Feel free to use and customize!

[SSNK4US]

That is soooooo cool!!!!

[cgundermann]

Very very cool!

Chris

[NAZ]

Agree, very cool.

[dbo_texas]

I like it! I have two 3D printers at work (FDM & Objet) - I have a ton of custom ideas I want to 3D print and test out. Could even use the 3D printed objects as a base for laying up fiberglass mods if desired. I do worry about the 3D printed parts being exposed to sunlight and heat for extended periods of time. Most of the resins are ABS or nylon - they can sag / creep with time and especially heat exposure. But for applications like you posted, it should work perfect.

[turbomacncheese]

I had looked at 3d printers for a few years, and seeing some of the ducts that redfogo came up with got me to talk with him...he convinced me to go for it. Worst thing about it is that it's taken some time away from the 818. Pretty sure I'll get some of it back by creating solutions with the thing. Recently made an ECU panel for another builder.

Fiberglass is a great idea, but there is a guy over on the midlana forums printing parts and then casting them with aluminum. I made a contraption to melt aluminum a few years ago but tried it with varying thicknesses of steel cans and they all melted, lol. Now the bottom is full of aluminum.

[totem]

Thank you for the positive comments. I’m still learning, but having lot of fun.

I agree about temperature concern. I don’t think anything under the hood would survive. Right now I´m using PLA filament which is the easier to work with but is low temp. ABS would be more heat resistant but is more difficult to print.

For the fiberglass, I´m skeptical. It’s really time consuming to print anything bigger than 6in., which is fairly small for any fiberglass work.

[dbo_texas]

Thank you for the positive comments. I’m still learning, but having lot of fun.

I agree about temperature concern. I don’t think anything under the hood would survive. Right now I´m using PLA filament which is the easier to work with but is low temp. ABS would be more heat resistant but is more difficult to print.

For the fiberglass, I´m skeptical. It’s really time consuming to print anything bigger than 6in., which is fairly small for any fiberglass work.

Yep we have a commercial printer (~$50K) so the build platform has much larger envelop - we can do bigger parts. Most of the software will also let you split the part and print it in 2 sessions - it will put in interlocking/alignment features in the break line. But yes I agree...bigger parts do take a long time to print no question. Our build layer thickness is about .007" on finest resolution and about .013" thick at the lowest resolution.

[Mick40]

Hi Totem,

What 3-D printer are you using? Thinking about a Crealitiy Ender-3. Nice job! Someone a while back printer blocks for their wipers, wondering how they have held up.

Thanks for sharing!

Mick

[totem]

Hi Totem,

What 3-D printer are you using? Thinking about a Crealitiy Ender-3. Nice job! Someone a while back printer blocks for their wipers, wondering how they have held up.

Thanks for sharing!

Mick
I have a Ender-3. It’s open source, hardware and software. Lots of mods, parts and upgrades are available. It’s in the Factory Five DIY mindset!

[bcorner]

I know this is old. But for new people looking for ideas. There are plenty of filaments nowadays that are perfectly fine for outdoor use.
Top UV-Resistant Filament Types

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate): This is widely considered the gold standard for outdoor use. It was specifically engineered as a UV-stable alternative to ABS. It resists yellowing, maintains mechanical strength under the sun, and has high heat resistance (around 100°C), making it ideal for car parts or solar mounts.
PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol): A great all-around choice that is easier to print than ASA. It offers moderate to good UV resistance and better impact strength than PLA. It is ideal for garden fixtures like planters or brackets that aren't exposed to extreme high-heat environments.
Polycarbonate (PC): An extremely strong and heat-resistant material that also possesses good UV stability. However, it is more challenging to print at home as it requires very high nozzle and bed temperatures and often an enclosure to prevent warping.

[Dondero14]

Awesome use of the 3d printer. We have one here at work and was going to try it out to make a cover plate for my seat heater switches as well as some wedges to go onto the brake and clutch pedals to actually be able to depress the brake and clutch safety switch plunger.

[flight_83]

I know this is old. But for new people looking for ideas. There are plenty of filaments nowadays that are perfectly fine for outdoor use.
Top UV-Resistant Filament Types

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate): This is widely considered the gold standard for outdoor use. It was specifically engineered as a UV-stable alternative to ABS. It resists yellowing, maintains mechanical strength under the sun, and has high heat resistance (around 100°C), making it ideal for car parts or solar mounts.
PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol): A great all-around choice that is easier to print than ASA. It offers moderate to good UV resistance and better impact strength than PLA. It is ideal for garden fixtures like planters or brackets that aren't exposed to extreme high-heat environments.
Polycarbonate (PC): An extremely strong and heat-resistant material that also possesses good UV stability. However, it is more challenging to print at home as it requires very high nozzle and bed temperatures and often an enclosure to prevent warping.


I like using PAHT-CF (high temp nylon-carbon fiber) for all my under hood bits. ASA for any UV exposed parts.

[BUDFIVE]

Another 3D print idea-Trunk floor fuel tank access covers. Had in my build thread last month.227293227294227295227296227297