Newbie’s crazy questions

[hjoensy]

My first build and I’m a Jeep/truck guy and have only really dealt with SBC motors. Instead of making multiple threads, I’m hoping to ask all my questions on this one.

Thanks for helping.

Here is the first. Panhard bar on the drivers side. There are two spacers. Does one go on each side of the bar end or both in the back. This changes the horizontal angle of the bar. Does it matter?

[Gordon Levy]

1 on each side. Bar needs to be as level to the diff as possible

[hjoensy]

Thanks. That’s what I figured. The pic in manual shows them both in the back. Instructions say something like “mount it with the spacers provided”. It is clearly written for the passenger side,

[hjoensy]

After installing all of the 3-link rear end components, I was left with 2 1" allen head screws and bolts. About 3/8 diameter. Looked through the manual, but don't see where they go. Any ideas?

[Gordon Levy]

Sounds like the bolt that connects the forward leg of the banana bracket to the diff housing.

[initiator]

I believe I had hardware left over after installation of the 3-link, too. Complete kit circa 2016.

[hjoensy]

Thanks. I’ll check tonight. My rear came with all of that bolted on already, so that sounds very plausible

[hjoensy]

Trying to decide on cup holder placement so I can the trans tunnel wrapped. Don’t want it to get in the way of the shifter. I’m limited going forward by the center dash support. If I go all the way toward that and to the left will it interfere?

On another note, anyone able to post pics to posts from their phone? I can’t figure it out.

[phileas_fogg]

Clearly what I did won't work with the center dash support, but there are several factors at play in addition to the diagonal bracing at the top of the tunnel.

I found that the trick is to get the right depth cup holders. On my MKIV, I ordered three pair before I found these (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00911UX6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). They were the only cup holders I could find that were large enough for my phone case to fit in AND shallow enough to fit at the front of my transmission tunnel. I located them 6” from the forward cockpit wall and 3” to either side of the center line of the transmission tunnel cover. More information is in Post #352 of my build log (https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/508121-phileas_fogg-s-mk-4-roadster-build.html).


John

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4335/36359182582_d18c523f2f_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XoWjfj)IMG_4002 (https://flic.kr/p/XoWjfj) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1769/42543336525_7a55fd400d_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27PpHLa)IMG_4752 (https://flic.kr/p/27PpHLa) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[hjoensy]

Thanks. The 2nd picture is really helpful. Any way you can throw a tape measure in the same picture? Measuring from the front going back.

[phileas_fogg]

Sure. The shifter trim ring is 16 5/8" back from the front of the transmission wall. Note that this is for a T5. The gear shifter is in neutral, if that helps.


John

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4891/46173559624_7cce06a344_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2dmcyBA)IMG_5403 (https://flic.kr/p/2dmcyBA) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[hjoensy]

Rivnuts are driving me crazy! I get about 1 good one set for every 3 that end up turning in the hole. I've adjusted the tool down to the point where it doesn't squeeze it enough to hold. Anyone ever try tack welding a steel rivnut in the frame?

[rich grsc]

Rivnuts are driving me crazy! I get about 1 good one set for every 3 that end up turning in the hole. I've adjusted the tool down to the point where it doesn't squeeze it enough to hold. Anyone ever try tack welding a steel rivnut in the frame?

Use a drop of red loctite, they won't turn.

[GoDadGo]

Heath,

I try to not rock the rivet-nut during the final squeeze of the handle too.
Also, I've got a couple of odd ball drill bits that allow me make the tightest hole possible.
Yes they are a pain in the neck, but once you figure them out you'll be shocked at how often you use them.

Steve

[Avalanche325]

As GoDad said, don't drill too big a hole. Sometimes I would do a squeeze, then get a couple more turns on the knob and hit it again. I like the loctite idea.

[hjoensy]

I traded out the aluminum rivnuts for steel. Much much better. I love the loctite idea.

[hjoensy]

I have zero experience with front end alignments and will bring to a shop once running.

For now, I need it to roll out my garage to install the engine. Both front tires are kicked in at the front of the tire. The car looks severely pigeon toed. I read the manual.....but it says bring it to a shop.

Any advice on how to get semi-correct would be appreciated.

[GoDadGo]

Heath,

I can probably help you get in the ballpark one night after work or definitely next weekend.

Steve

[hjoensy]

Sounds good. Let me know.

[BadAsp427]

I have zero experience with front end alignments and will bring to a shop once running.

For now, I need it to roll out my garage to install the engine. Both front tires are kicked in at the front of the tire. The car looks severely pigeon toed. I read the manual.....but it says bring it to a shop.

Any advice on how to get semi-correct would be appreciated.

Take a look at this post, it could be a big help for you to get started... CLICK HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure)

[hjoensy]

Awesome thread. I looked, but couldn’t find anything this detailed. Thanks.

[hjoensy]

Will installing the radiator before the engine cause engine installation clearance issues? I’m running out of things to do before the engine shows up.

[BadAsp427]

IMO, wait until the last chance to install the radiator. You will have many things going on in and around the front of the car that you will wish it was not in your way. But, if you do, I would be sure to protect it with a sheet of cardboard or something.

[Railroad]

Will installing the radiator before the engine cause engine installation clearance issues? I’m running out of things to do before the engine shows up.
Hang the radiator, drill and bolt everything in place, pull it and set it aside. You will be glad all the fitting is done.

[phileas_fogg]

Make sure the right side mount clears the weld on the radiator. Depending on the model, you may have to grind off a bit of the outside corner.


John

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4303/36123133972_53db432f1b_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X35vdG)IMG_2750 (https://flic.kr/p/X35vdG) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[Avalanche325]

Hang the radiator, drill and bolt everything in place, pull it and set it aside. You will be glad all the fitting it done.

.....and ALWAYS keep cardboard over it while it is sitting in the garage.

[GoDadGo]

Will installing the radiator before the engine cause engine installation clearance issues? I’m running out of things to do before the engine shows up.

I'd suggest installing the radiator after your driveline goes in to avoid damaging it.
If you need help installing the engine, please know we're willing to lend a hand.
If you want to drag it to The-Dell we can do that too since I've got a trailer.

Installation With No Body:
https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4

Removal With Body:
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

Installation With Body:
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

Helping Each Other Is What Factory Five Folks Do!

[Dan Raabe]

I want to build a cobra. At least I think I do. Can anyone make a short comparison of the factory five and backdraft cobras. Just stick to the important stuff. Chassis, fiberglass body, interior. Whatever you considered when you decided to build your factory five.
Thanks, Dan Raabe

[GoDadGo]

I want to build a cobra. At least I think I do. Can anyone make a short comparison of the factory five and backdraft cobras. Just stick to the important stuff. Chassis, fiberglass body, interior. Whatever you considered when you decided to build your factory five.
Thanks, Dan Raabe


The biggest difference between Factory Five & Backdraft is everything!

Backdraft's Chassis is basically BMW suspension parts on a rectangular tube chassis and the body sits on top like a dune buggy.
Shown below is a link to let you see the B/D chassis:
https://backdraftracing.com/14-rt3-tabs/44-rt3-chassis

The Factory Five Racing Chassis is much like the original being that it is a 4" round tube design for a more period correct look.
Shown below is a link to let you see the F/5 chassis:
https://www.factoryfive.com/galleries/mk4/mk4-roadster-chassis/

Backdraft is built outside of the country, uses foreign labor and builds "A Nice Looking Car" but it is far from being period correct.
Purchase a driveline and install it or have it installed and you are done.

Factory Five builds their cars in the U.S.A. by American Craftsmen and Craftswomen and the Roadster body is very period correct in shape and style.
Build a Factory Five and your car is truly your car and it will reflect your skills and ability, but more importantly it will include your soul.

Factory Five MK4 Overview By Dave Smith, President & CEO For Factory Five Racing:
https://youtu.be/6ckgfkPU8Ss

How Factory Five Makes Their Cars:
https://youtu.be/wVT6QHyBxDA
https://youtu.be/GvkJ95X7Fio

How Backdraft Builds Their Cars:
https://youtu.be/4Ts87Ta3qik

Where Factory Five Gets It's Inspiration From; Which Is Racing:
Real Cobra
https://youtu.be/KpYxA9QTMxE
Factory Five Roadster
https://youtu.be/X9OSrHFECxc

My Car Then & Now:
https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs
https://youtu.be/wOID7yvBRPU

Again, The biggest difference between Factory Five & Backdraft is everything!
Do You Want To Build Your Dream Or Simply Purchase It?
The Choice Is Yours!
Good Luck!

[FLPBFoot]

Here Here...well said.