#9365 - Starting the wheel alignment

[Fixit]

I'm getting started doing the front wheel alignment and have a question or two...

I've built a rig that spans the wheel "bead" surfaces with a steel plate in the middle - so my Dad's 60+ year old Bender #400 magnetic alignment gauge will work. (It's designed to stick to an iron center hub - not possible with our setup).

I'm running power steering, and have gotten the PS cranked in pretty close to the suggested specs...
It's currently reading:
minus 1/2deg. camber
6-3/4+ positive caster

Here's the rub:
- the aft leg of the upper arm is cranked all the way in tight against the stop nuts - no more adjustment possible.
- the forward leg is at about 6-7/8" center-to-center on the bolts.

(The lower control arms are in the outboard holes)

I've played with this several times and it always comes back to these settings... to get the minus 1/2deg of camber the aft arm must be cranked all the way in.

Thoughts & comparisions to other cars please!

[Jeff Kleiner]

This is very typical when using the current upper control arms with the angled ball joint plates John. The fix is to cut 1/4" to 3/8" total off of the rear adjuster sleeves. Also cut a similar amount from the male stubs that thread into the sleeves so that they do not bottom out internally. This will allow you to get more positive caster and negative camber. For a street car I like +8 caster, -.5 to -.75 camber and 3/32" total toe in (make sure it's in, not out).

Good luck!

Jeff

[Fixit]

I'd come to the conclusion that something may need to be done to the aft adjuster sleeves, and thank you Jeff for confirming it.

Looks like I'll be disassembling a few things and chucking some parts in the lathe!

(This is one of those "tidbits" of information that would be worthwhile of a "See Note xx" in the front suspension section of the assembly manual!!)