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John4337
08-15-2011, 07:35 PM
Hi All,


The day is here, my Forte built 306 is here :)
I'm building a Mk4 complete, and I've pretty much followed the manual, except no aluminum but the inside foot box panels and the cut firewall for the North Racecars A/C. The brakes are in an bled (thanks Mark) and the fuel lines are run under, but not into the bay yet. My question to the group is, are there any 'gotchas' that I should take care of before we drop it in?

Heres a pic still in the crate (cut me some slack, it only got here today). Its a straight 306 with Powerjection iii and a T-5

Thanks all

John

3570

jlfernan
08-15-2011, 08:01 PM
Trans attached to engine. Raise the rear of the car to make insertion easier. An engine leveler helps, but not neccesary. A piece of carpet or thick blanket to protect the firewall. Take a deep breath and take your time.


http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/5961/4806124809.jpg

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/9124/jorge.jpg (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=111)

riptide motorsport
08-15-2011, 08:09 PM
Is your body on or off?

John4337
08-15-2011, 08:17 PM
The body is off. Basically just the suspension and what I mentioned in the thread. Just wondering if there's anything I should take care of that may not be mentioned in the manual, or that the group found later that would have been easier/better/faster, etc.

edwardb
08-15-2011, 09:46 PM
Even though the 302 and T5 aren't too heavy, suggest using a leveler on the engine lift. Makes it really controllable to angle into place. Also suggest having the engine mount bolts to the block slightly loose. Makes it easier to get the mounts to drop into the frame. Mine had to be rocked back and forth to drop in. Tighten them up in place. One other suggestion: Before taking the hoist away, mount your headers and check your side pipe alignment if possible. You may find the engine needs to be adjusted to get the best alignment. I ended up lifting the engine back out slightly and using a die grinder to lengthen one of the slots in the chassis mount in order to rotate the engine a little. Improved my side pipe alignment significantly.

riptide motorsport
08-15-2011, 10:38 PM
Pretty much what Edward said, he's spot on. you should be fine, extra set of hands is nice but take your time and you'll be fine...Steven

jlfernan
08-15-2011, 11:01 PM
I have the TKO600 and needed the spacers from Forte to keep the trans off the rear cross tube, not sure if the T5 will have the same issue, but it's worth checking before you button everything up.


http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2561/jorgec.jpg (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=111)

Jeff Kleiner
08-16-2011, 05:18 AM
I have not found trans mount spacers necessary when using a T5. I like to get all wiring run prior to engine install but that is really builder's choice. As has been mentioned get the chassis as high as is practical (make sure your jackstand placement won't interfere with the hoist legs as you roll it into position) with the rear higher. An engine leveler makes it much easier and turns it into a 10 minute one man job.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1942.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1943.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1948.jpg

Good luck!

Jeff

Ray
08-16-2011, 12:28 PM
Here is how they did it in the 'olden days'

Ray3571

Todd Buttrick
08-16-2011, 04:39 PM
^^ That's great stuff. Classic.

riptide motorsport
08-16-2011, 07:59 PM
that picture is so cool!! I'd like to have that on my wall.

John4337
08-16-2011, 09:35 PM
That old pic is cool, a poster would be great. Almost looks like factory five boxes in the car. Is the remote oil filter a necessity with the small block, or just easier?

Jeff Kleiner
08-17-2011, 04:12 AM
Is the remote oil filter a necessity with the small block, or just easier?

It is not needed if you are using the 4 into 4 headers. It has been known to be problematic (leaks) so I'd avoid using it if you don't have to. For those running shorty headers with cats or J pipes a 90 degree adaptor from an Explorer or aftermarket allows the filter to clear while staying on the block.

Cheers,
Jeff

Ray
08-17-2011, 09:45 AM
that picture is so cool!! I'd like to have that on my wall.

You can buy that image here (http://www.garagescenes.com/thumb.php?pageno=3&q=All&cat=10&type=mural) It's a wall sized mural and they have a BUNCH of stuff. You'll spend a day or two just going through it all and then decide that you will need a larger shop for all the art you want to buy.

Ray

PS: This is not my company. I'm just a drooling future customer.

John4337
08-22-2011, 08:35 PM
Thanks to all for the advice and encouragement, it went in in about an hour.

John

Gumball
08-23-2011, 03:58 PM
Here is how they did it in the 'olden days'

Ray3571

Those look like the Factory Five boxes in my garage! Ahhh....., the more things change, the more they stay the same.

Sailor
08-23-2011, 08:40 PM
Now there's some "enginuity" :D



Here is how they did it in the 'olden days'

Ray3571

Snakely
08-24-2011, 06:20 AM
Two drums and a cymbal fall off a cliff.



(Ba-dum-tshh!)

Bill_VA
08-24-2011, 02:07 PM
Is it best to attach the chains to the header bolts or the intake bolts?

J.D.
08-24-2011, 02:53 PM
I used accessory bolt holes on opposite ends of either head when i pulled my donor engine. They are larger diameter than the intake or header bolts, if I remember correctly.

edwardb
08-24-2011, 03:23 PM
I used accessory bolt holes on opposite ends of either head when i pulled my donor engine. They are larger diameter than the intake or header bolts, if I remember correctly.

If using a leveler, use the accessory bolts on the heads. Much larger than either the header or intake bolts. Just put a towel, shop cloth, rag, whatever between the chains and head so you don't scratch it up.

If not using a leveler, I found an engine lift plate on the carb mount works really well. $15 at Summit. For my SBF and T5z, the center hole balanced just about right, and it was an easy install. Just a little push down on the bell housing to get under the firewall.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/th_IMG_1042.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/?action=view&current=IMG_1042.jpg)

Jeff Kleiner
08-24-2011, 04:31 PM
As you can see by my photos in post #8 my preference is the header bolts. They are larger and will be in shear rather than tension. Actually I have cut pieces of 2X3 rectangular tubing and bolt them tight to the cylinder heads then hook the chains through them on all 4 corners.

Jeff