So it begins...

[RobW]

I've had my kit for 8 month and have finally started doing something with it. I purchased ahead of my schedule to take advantage of the Black Friday sale in 2017. I picked it up in late April, 2018. Fast Forward 8 months and I was ready to get started. Last night, I marked, removed, and drilled the aluminum. I also re-assembled the UCAs. This morning, I assembled the coil-overs and clamped the F-panels to the chassis and drilled through the panel holes. I removed the panels and panted the engine side with silver hammer tone.
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I then mocked up the pax front suspension. I did not tighten anything down. I was hoping you all could take a look and let me know if I missed something. If all is good, I'll disassemble, clean everything up good, and assemble, torque down. I did have a question, if the LCA bracket is a bit wide, should I fill in the gap with one of he large fender washers? If I can, I'll hold off on permanently attaching the F-Panels.
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Not sure why the pictures are sideways.

Thanks, Rob

[GFX2043mtu]

Looks great. One thing you may want to do is make sure the koni shocks are adjusted prior to instillation. You can find how to do this via the koni we sight. Look up adjusting 30 series koni shocks. I found mine to be all over the place.

[Sigurd]

Depending on how you plan to use the car, the upper mounting position for the shocks is intendend for racing, the lower for road use. I see you have the lower control arm in the "road" position

[RobW]

Looks great. One thing you may want to do is make sure the koni shocks are adjusted prior to instillation. You can find how to do this via the koni we sight. Look up adjusting 30 series koni shocks. I found mine to be all over the place.
I did adjust the shocks to their softest setting based on tips from build school.


Depending on how you plan to use the car, the upper mounting position for the shocks is intendend for racing, the lower for road use. I see you have the lower control arm in the "road" position
Thanks Sigurd. I was following the manual and it says to both use the top mounting holes for the shock and the outer holes for the LCAs. No racing but maybe some spirited driving now and then. I'll move the shocks to the lower mounting holes.


Thanks for the comments.

Thanks,

[Sigurd]

I did adjust the shocks to their softest setting based on tips from build school.


Thanks Sigurd. I was following the manual and it says to both use the top mounting holes for the shock and the outer holes for the LCAs. No racing but maybe some spirited driving now and then. I'll move the shocks to the lower mounting holes.


Thanks for the comments.

Thanks,

I think the upper holes are used for the upgraded Koni's for road use.

[Joecobr]

I used a 98 Cobra as a donor with the ‘straight steering arm’ spindles, as it appears you are as well. I ended up switching to the 95 spindles with the curved steering arms as they are the recommended ones to minimize bump steer. Before you get too far along I suggest you do the same. The brake splash guards are the same for both. Many don’t install them at all but I did.

[phileas_fogg]

Unless you're radiator plumbing requires, recommend you put the patch plate on the right side F-panel. It's much easier to access now than later.


John

[mlewis]

I was not aware the Koni's needed to be adjusted prior to install.

Is it worth removing the and adjusting ?

Sorry to hijack the thread …

[edwardb]

I was not aware the Koni's needed to be adjusted prior to install.

Is it worth removing the and adjusting ?

Sorry to hijack the thread …

The issue there is the standard red Koni's can only be adjusted when removed. Explained here under Series 30: http://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/. Most, me included, start with the softest setting, plus you want them all the same. Some have found between the four received they weren't. That's why the recommendation to check them. And then start them all at your desired setting.

Agree for the standard red Koni's the lower top mount hole should be used. The upper holes are only used for the upgraded silver double-action Koni shocks, or for a real race setup. The manual for the Roadster and Coupe both say this. I wouldn't use the upper holes for a street driver. Perhaps different than with Mustang spindles vs. the FF 2-piece spindles, but I doubt it.

[RobW]

The issue there is the standard red Koni's can only be adjusted when removed. Explained here under Series 30: http://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/. Most, me included, start with the softest setting, plus you want them all the same. Some have found between the four received they weren't. That's why the recommendation to check them. And then start them all at your desired setting.

Agree for the standard red Koni's the lower top mount hole should be used. The upper holes are only used for the upgraded silver double-action Koni shocks, or for a real race setup. The manual for the Roadster and Coupe both say this. I wouldn't use the upper holes for a street driver. Perhaps different than with Mustang spindles vs. the FF 2-piece spindles, but I doubt it.

Thank you for the clarification! I moved the shock to the lower holes

Rob