View Full Version : Blu's 818R
After 27 years of racing tin tops I decided to go topless.... sort of.
I picked up my build late April 2018 after selling our 2 Spec Miata's. We ran SM for 5 years and had a blast, I must say i learned how to drive again, momentum racing is so much fun. 3 Championships between us including an invite to Mazda Shootout in California, what an experience, fun!
My son went to play in the dirt with his GC8 Impreza. I bought a caged GC8 shell as well with the intensions of following him into rally, however the car was butchered from open class and too far gone for me to complete. So I sold it to a friend, lol.
I have enjoyed reading the forums the past 6 months to gather information on the best way (for me) to build this race toy. So many talented people on here with amazing depth of knowledge, thanking all of you for that !
As I am in Canada, I had to order the "Canadian Package" as it is the ONLY way to get it across the border, god love the wisdom of our government... enough said.
We drove the 11 hours each way to pick up the kit. Was great to meet so many people and take the factory tour.
My build order included :
818 Race, powder coated white as all race cars should be. Red body.
Because there was an amazing sale when I ordered the kit, the following arrived with it -
CF Splitter, CF Diffuser, Cunards, Door Ducts, Rocker Panel extensions, Race Side mirror kit, aluminum shifter and [3] sets of rims.
Items purchased not on sale, APR Wing, Wilwood pedal kit.
So far I have been gathering and cleaning parts as I do not have a donor car. Between my yard, my sons yard and a very good friend I have enough parts to pick from. Additionally I have been powder coating all of the aluminum prior to assembly, so much aluminum. Most I have done myself except for anything large I have sent it out.
Build will include the following;
2004 USDM 2.5 turbo (turbo size still discussing) Goal is 350+ WHP on pump gas
6-speed with LSD
iWire harness with custom options
Cadillac ATS 4-piston Brembo brakes all around
12.8 rotors all around
Moton 3-way adjustable damper suspension
Dry sump system
Fuel cell in passenger area
AIM Data acquisition
OMP HTE R seat
(Considering the halo, still open to the concept and still evaluating as I am 6')
Expected completion for first race April 2020, more than likely sooner however it will be test and tune only :-)
Mitch Wright
01-03-2019, 02:19 PM
Welcome to the family.
Zach34
01-03-2019, 07:46 PM
Welcome! Good to see another R builder on the forum. Need pictures of that white frame!
Rob T
01-03-2019, 10:15 PM
Welcome. It will be fun to watch your build.
Mitch Wright
01-04-2019, 09:43 AM
love the white frame, looks great.
I asked a good friend who is an engineer in IMSA for one of the Ferrari teams about Cadillac ATS 4-piston Brembo brakes and STI 12.8” rotors all around, here is his reply.
So the Ferrari GTLM car has 48% weight on front, looks like the 818 is 40% based on the link you sent me.
Ferrari has about 70% front brake distribution with the balance bar in the middle.
Your suggested setup, with Cadillac 4 piston Brembo calipers front and rear, 1.65” piston diameter, would give 54% front brake distribution - similar to an Indy car road course setup. This is with 3/4” front and 13/16” rear master, as per the forum Hobby Racer setup.
Initially I thought this was too much rear brake, but if your front weight is really 40%, this should be in the ballpark. The master sizes seem a bit small, you will have a long pedal, but a lot of force. I’d go for 7/8” front and 1” rear, this will give you a firmer pedal and less travel. And puts you at 57% front brake distribution, which seems about right. As you have big rotors all around (more stopping force), but larger rear clalipers (more stopping force, but more pedal travel), you will have just a bit more stopping force with just a little more pedal travel, for the same pedal force. So I’d stick with the bigger masters - as your car is lighter - it will be too easy to lock brakes with the smaller masters.
If you have a floor mount pedal you have the same ratio as my car. If you have a swing pedal, they have a little higher ratio, meaning a little more travel, but less force.
So I think you are on a good path.
Note that the front distribution numbers are based on total stopping power - with the balance bar at 50%. So you can vary these numbers probably 10% on either side, but always best not to go too car from 50/50 on the bar - the geometry goes to hell.
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Considering I have lots of STI Brembos that need rebuilding, I am choosing to do the swap as the sale of the STI Brembos will easily pay for this swap. Besides STI Brembos use a leading and trailing piston configuration. Since I live north (road salt haven) the road Brembos are a huge challenge to rebuild with bolts not coming out.
Rock Auto sells the remanufactured calipers for $140 I can buy new from the Chev dealer for $150.00
Total for [4] calipers, Caliper hardware, Swap bracket kit, [4] 12.8 premium rotors is $1,100
Thanks to Hobby Racer for sending me in this direction
Mitch Wright
01-04-2019, 03:09 PM
FYI with the CP8350 4 piston AP brakes I am running (same caliper/12" rotors front and rear) and 3/4 masters. Depending on the tires and tire condition I am running I have been with in a turn from center both to the front and rear. I am really please with the pedal feel and stopping power.
For the price the Caddie brake set up looks like a great value.
Hobby Racer
01-04-2019, 08:05 PM
Thanks to Hobby Racer for sending me in this direction
You will not be disappointed with the Caddie Brembos! I love them and have not had to change my balance bar from its 50/50 position yet as it seems to be perfectly balanced. I would be cautious about running larger master cylinders as your pedal effort will increase. My pedal travel is only about 3/4" at the pedal which I find ideal for my heal / toe setup.
biknman
01-06-2019, 09:24 AM
Like the white I was going with either white or silver. I wanted to easily see damage or leaks and be able to touch it up. ��������
Has anyone put in a quick steering rack? If so what did you use?
Bob_n_Cincy
01-06-2019, 11:36 PM
Has anyone put in a quick steering rack? If so what did you use?
I don't remember anyone putting in a quicker steering rack. I think a couple kept the power steering. there were early discussions about a quicker rack.
I would try a the donor rack first.
We went with the donor rack and we're happy. This link is an early autocross video the was before we had are suspension sorted. Watch Mike's hands on the wheel.
https://youtu.be/y8snC-HqkcU
Here is another link with a side by comparison of Mike and Mitch side by side in the same our car. https://youtu.be/UTTFf-7O8AA
biknman
01-07-2019, 06:38 PM
I put in a Woodward MA101-14 1-1/2 turns lock to lock for 5” of rack travel http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/6.%20Ultra%20Lightweight%20Manual%20Steering%20Rac ks,%20type%20MC.pdf
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Another 818r on here used this https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3091
Mitch Wright
01-07-2019, 07:51 PM
I guess it comes down to personal preference, that is what is great about a building a 818.
I am using a depowered 04 WRX rack. I can say i among a few others have a lot of track miles on my car. While building the car I thought I would want a faster rack. Now that I have driven the car a bunch for me the WRX rack works great with great feed back. It’s is personal preference.
Sgt.Gator
01-09-2019, 02:21 PM
Blu, great to have another R on the track. If you are seriously considering a halo I'd be happy to chat with you about it. I like mine a lot. I have some things I would do differently if I were doing it again. And you're welcome to come out to Oregon Raceway Park with your son and rent my STI, 818R, and the Palatov D4. That way you can really see the differences, all three cars are quite different feeling. The weather is too cold now for it though, the first track days start back up in March. You could do March but it's as likely to snow on the track as it is to be nice!
Blu, great to have another R on the track. If you are seriously considering a halo I'd be happy to chat with you about it. I like mine a lot. I have some things I would do differently if I were doing it again.
Thanks for the great rental offer I will PM you and I would like to discuss with you any halo option as we have had a lot of debate about it here. BTW, I could not be further away as I am on the East Coast, Atlantic Standard Time + 4 hours.
Speaking of debate, I spent hours and hours yesterday (snow day) reading about Subaru dry sump or conventional, got to know a little about you reading those 22 pages lol.
Meeting my engine builder sponsor Saturday to discuss and pick his brain about all of this as he is known for building 500+ hp motors that are reliable, granted not track raced frequently. I like Mitch running conventional wet sump, makes me want to do that, versus dry sump. Then there is the Eco boost 2.3 crate motor with harness that is tempting. As I said I did not start with a donor so my options are open, although I did buy a 6-speed for a grand as there was no reverse (usually the pin breaks) as I wanted more then 300 whp which is beyond the 5-speeds reliability.
Reading these forums and options does make ones head spin as to the best options? Time to make progress.
turbomacncheese
01-11-2019, 07:52 PM
I don't remember anyone putting in a quicker steering rack. I think a couple kept the power steering. there were early discussions about a quicker rack.
I would try a the donor rack first.
We went with the donor rack and we're happy. This link is an early autocross video the was before we had are suspension sorted. Watch Mike's hands on the wheel.
https://youtu.be/y8snC-HqkcU
I know I've seen you post this somewhere before, but I never get tired of watching it!
Had a friend of mine do some Halo CAD rendering options. This is the one we liked best based on the following criteria:
No removal of bars (easier to obtain log book as we did not modify the manufactures structure)
Add bars only as required
Ease of egress, also considered if the car is inverted
Protection - even open cockpit open wheel cars are adding a halo
Allow for 6' -6'4" driver
The front hoop is 2" lower than the rear hoop, with the two center bars at approximate 10" apart.
Raised center bars to allow tall drivers.
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Sgt.Gator
01-15-2019, 12:25 PM
Nice to have more innovation on the halo!
You are leaving the side angle support bars in? I decided to take mine out because no matter how hard I tried there was no way I could fit thru them with a halo on top. If I'm rolled over and sitting on my top, nose down, I want to be able to crawl out either side. You must be a lot skinnier than me!
What race organization and class are you building for?
Amazing how long the winter months seem to drag on yet nothing really much has happened on the build in the last two months due to other commitments and work.
The progress so far -
Powder coated aluminum firewall pieces white - installed
2006 STI Aluminum control arms powder coated Chrome. Whiteline Performance synthetic elastomer bushings on the inner front and installed the anti-lift/caster bushing kit on the rear.
Spindle and hub powder coated red, includes new bearing, seals, ball joint and ARP long studs. IFS bracket powder coated chrome.
Working on cleaning and powder coating the rear hubs.
All axles disassembled, cleaned and ready for assembly
Moton 3-way suspension 350 front (installed) and 500 rear springs which came with the kit, may need 500 front and 750 rear once all aero is on car and tested.
Cadillac Calipers with STI Rotors, all 4-corners with G-Loc brake pads, R-10 front R-8 rear - received everything but the pads and needs to be installed
Depowered WRX steering rack with Whiteline Performance bushing kit - not installed yet
Wilwood pedals installed, deciding on reservoir location
STI Wiring harness, ecu, and other components ready to ship to Brian at iWire.
Decided on adding Switch-Pros 8 button panel to replace rocker or toggle switches. Buttons programmed for starter, lights, pump fuel out, cameras, AIM Display 0/I for ecu programming and accessories.
So looking forward to spending more time on this in the coming months.
WOW... I cannot believe it has been almost a year since I posted anything on here. I really suck at the posting stuff.
Bought two Seadoo 20’ jet boats to make one, that killed the whole summer. So much fun. The Mercury 2.5 V6 2-stroke likes the fuel especially when at 55 mph full open. Have to say it gets going in a hurry and will pull any skier out of the water faster than anything I have operated before.
Went to INDY 500 and drove down to meet Mitch Wright, thank you Mitch for everything. We owe you a heart felt thank you for the experience, totally amazing and we still talk about it today. Again Thank you for your hospitality.
Entered a 3 hour endurance race with my son in a borrowed car, finished, though only in the top ten as the car overheated 2 hours into the race. Lost 9 minutes which really sucked as we were in the top 5 at the time.
Moving onto the build: With work and play commitments the build took a back shelf (like many) although I am very inspired to complete it for this race season.
I wasn’t completely idle as I ordered a few parts, so time to start assembling those parts.
Very Cool parts trailing arms from Wayne
IAG stage 2 EJ short block with new OEM halves, STD bore 99.5 mm IAG Spec Pistons, IAG Spec H-Beam Rods, OEM Crank. GSC Power-Division Single Valve Spring set w/ titanium retainers, GSC STD size 32mm exhaust valve set, GSC STD size 36 mm intake valve set, JE Pro seal head gasket
Killer B oil pan, Pickup. It came with the baffle kit however I will be using the arc tangent oil control baffle
IAG AOS competition series
iWire harness, engine harness, Switch Pros Panel/PDM
Cadillac Brembo Brakes x 4
CTS-V Brake swap
12.8 STI rotors x 4
ARP Wheel studs with Muteki lug nuts
Rear lower lateral control arms from FFR
I am positive there are more parts on the shelf, cannot remember what they are at the moment.
Biggest debate has been the Halo design. First of all I was very reluctant to modify any of the structure as I only wanted to add to it. After many adult beverages we agreed to move forward and not worry about the lovely white powder coating, lol.
Decision is to add NASCAR style crash bars and bottom nerf bar on both sides without removing the existing square tubing. The side angle support bar and maybe one round tube by my elbow will be removed. Pictures to follow.
The Halo is designed, fabrication starts in 2-weeks, more to come on that.
Lots happening, will post pics later.
Always forget to post pictures, I appreciate it when others do as the image says so much more than the words.
My son built a house around the corner, this is the mess I was left with after parting out 20 or so Subaru's plus 5 years of SM racing and rallycross.
Time to gut it and clean it, before i move the 818r in to its new home.
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Time to paint floor to ceiling and get rid of that horrible yellow from the previous home owner
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Picked up these nice cabinets at an auction
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New home for the race car and parts.
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I eventually removed all the packaging. Easier to locate stuff and less of a clutter.
Tried to delete the image below and or rotate it.. wasn't successful with that.
As i mentioned I do not have a donor car due to the fact there is a ton of Subaru parts around. The only downfall to that is scrounging around for the correct part, model, year that works. Our wonderful snowy white climate is great (at times) except when the government tries to remove all of it with salt. Vehicles have a 12 -14 year life span and when they are done, they are rust buckets.
All the parts are thoroughly cleaned, powder coated or painted. Tried powder coating with Chrome, I think it turned out ok.
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Weight is the enemy on a race car and so is unnecessary pieces. Cut the front CV axle for a clean look and save weight. Do not use a band saw.... takes forever. Zip cut blades make quick work of it. the ABS ring was also removed.
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Hobby Racer
01-29-2020, 08:05 AM
As i mentioned I do not have a donor car due to the fact there is a ton of Subaru parts around. The only downfall to that is scrounging around for the correct part, model, year that works. Our wonderful snowy white climate is great (at times) except when the government tries to remove all of it with salt. Vehicles have a 12 -14 year life span and when they are done, they are rust buckets.
All the parts are thoroughly cleaned, powder coated or painted. Tried powder coating with Chrome, I think it turned out ok.
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Weight is the enemy on a race car and so is unnecessary pieces. Cut the front CV axle for a clean look and save weight. Do not use a band saw.... takes forever. Zip cut blades make quick work of it. the ABS ring was also removed.
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Attachments do not work :(
Kurk818
01-29-2020, 09:24 AM
Photos work for me.
Santiago
01-29-2020, 10:25 AM
How odd - photos didn't work for me on one computer but did work on another...
Anywho - great looking parts! Those lower control arms really pop!
Ajzride
01-29-2020, 11:05 AM
How odd - photos didn't work for me on one computer but did work on another...
Anywho - great looking parts! Those lower control arms really pop!
I think it was a forum issue. Didn’t work this morning but does now for me.
Found these Whiteline Lower control arm bushings which work perfect. No need to build up with washers or spacers as directed with the stock one. Changed all bushings in the control arms with Whiteline synthetic elastomer bushings.
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Suspension is installed to ensure everything fits and aligns, nuts are missing as I plan to take it apart again. Once the halo and NASCAR crash bars are complete the car will be stripped and sent to powder coat the new added steel.
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The steering rack was done twice - The first one I depowered cleaned and painted was not an Impreza rack, who knew?. Not sure what is was from as the tie rod would not go past the control arm bolt. So, found a 2004 WRX rack and did the work all over again. Fun times. Picture is all the parts off the rack and the first one I prepared along with the column.
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Hobby Racer
01-30-2020, 07:27 AM
Finally, another one using the Cadillac Brembo brakes, excellent! You won't regret it, they work great, I love them.
Attachments do not work :(
When logged in on my PC I see the thumbnails but not on my iPad. Strange
Finally, another one using the Cadillac Brembo brakes, excellent! You won't regret it, they work great, I love them.
I really enjoyed reading your build and was inspired to try the Cadillac Brembos especially when I looked into the cost. I really like the universal fit of having all the same calipers and rotors. A mid engine rear wheel drive car would have a better balance of braking with it in my opinion.
Hobby Racer
02-03-2020, 08:40 AM
I really enjoyed reading your build and was inspired to try the Cadillac Brembos especially when I looked into the cost. I really like the universal fit of having all the same calipers and rotors. A mid engine rear wheel drive car would have a better balance of braking with it in my opinion.
I also monitor my front and rear brake hydraulic pressures. With the mid engine setup and the Cadilac Brembos I actually use MORE rear pressure than front pressure. It makes for very confident and smooth braking. The car does not dive, it just squats down and stops!
Mitch Wright
02-03-2020, 09:47 AM
I had the same experience with the AP brakes.
Weight is the enemy on a race car and so is unnecessary pieces. Cut the front CV axle for a clean look and save weight. Do not use a band saw.... takes forever. Zip cut blades make quick work of it. the ABS ring was also removed.
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As per post # 25 this was the finished result
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Bob_n_Cincy
02-03-2020, 04:06 PM
I also monitor my front and rear brake hydraulic pressures. With the mid engine setup and the Cadilac Brembos I actually use MORE rear pressure than front pressure. It makes for very confident and smooth braking. The car does not dive, it just squats down and stops!
I ran the first summer of autocross and half a dozen track days with square calipers and square pads. I'm running 235 tires in front and 255 in the rear about 22 psi cold in both. To test balance I did about 20 eighty mph panic stops with a couple of minutes rest between each.
Each stop I would increase the braking force until something would lock. I was very happy with the braking with no PV. The rear was locking first. I now have a PV in the rear with it turned down only slightly.
Bob
About to order a new radiator and would like your opinion :
Do I order a custom radiator that stands vertical, versus a standard Subaru radiator (dimensional) that leans back?
I plan on adding a AWIC that will sit in-front of the rad.
What is the experience of radiator purchase along with AWIC?
As others have done I plan on enclosing the radiator area to direct the air flow through the AWIC/Radiator from front to hood vent.
Ajzride
02-06-2020, 11:47 PM
I struggled to find an aftermarket one that fit in the opening with the inlet/outlet on the proper sides. I wound up with crossover pipes under hood because the best option I could find had the wrong orientation.
Santiago
02-08-2020, 01:59 PM
About to order a new radiator and would like your opinion :
Do I order a custom radiator that stands vertical, versus a standard Subaru radiator (dimensional) that leans back?
As others have done I plan on enclosing the radiator area to direct the air flow through the AWIC/Radiator from front to hood vent.
No experience/plans using AWIC, but I would favor leaning the radiator regardless. I ordered the shortest one I could find with equivalent area (so wider than usual) so that when it's leaned forward the angle on exit is not so constrained. Ducting the inlet is good, but an exit strategy is equally effective. Some folks here have already run ducts out the top of the hood for this. A vertical orientation makes it harder to exit the lower part of the radiator without pinching it off. In the automotive industry generally, the radiator is the source of a large amount of drag, as airflow is rarely provided a well designed plan for leaving the scene of the crime.
Mr. Miyagi say, "Duct in, duct out."
-j
Oops - lost something !
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I struggled to find an aftermarket one that fit in the opening with the inlet/outlet on the proper sides. I wound up with crossover pipes under hood because the best option I could find had the wrong orientation.
I purchased a NIB Mishimoto X-line triple core with aluminum dual fan shroud plug and play from Axlethrasher.
We always ran Mishimoto in our race cars, so I was glad to find these.
Scrmblr2
03-04-2020, 01:01 AM
I know I've seen you post this somewhere before, but I never get tired of watching it!
Mike missed a few corners...but...gosh dark that looks fast. I will hopefully be posting “better line videos” once I get mine on the road....;)
I had no idea there would be so many chassis additions or modifications ? Some were self-directed and some were recommendations by other builders.
Shame I already paid for powder coating, oh well off it goes for its second coating.
Halo
A lot of time was spent trying to decide what to do with a Halo? Searching the forums, following Gators halo design, reviewing the Lotus 2-Eleven GT4, CAD Drawings, mock ups and finally testing the fitment of pipe to make it all work. After the design and mock-up of, GEN-1, GEN-2 and GEN-3 halo it was decided to scrap the whole idea as a halo does not really suit the 818, or at least i could not make it look good. If I decided to run a windshield it would have worked to hide the front hoop, although that was never a consideration. So raising the rear main hoop 6” was the best solution. Now I can fit comfortably under the hoop and pass the broomstick test easily !
Raising the hoop became the preferred scenario considering the general look of the car did not change….the reason I bought the kit in the first place, was because I liked the look of it.
List of modifications or additions:
1. Filled square hollow rear tube with square solid bar under the main hoop, 2” deep
2. Filled square hollow lower front tube with square solid bar 2” deep
3. Raised the main roll bar hoop 6”
4. Forward and rear brace at 5-1/2” from the top roll bar to meet closed circuit racing rules.
5. Driver’s side - Cut the center 2 vertical tubes out, replaced with one piece to meet diagonal
6. 6-Speed transmission cross brace modification
7. Added support from main floor chassis to engine bay
8. Added support to the lateral link area
9. Plated the front trailing arm brackets
10. Engine bay cross bars, now removable.
11. Driver’s side and passenger side doors – dual horizontal crash bars (designed to accept Impact and intrusion foam.)
12. Driver’s side and passenger side – Crash bar form fit in fiberglass rocker panel, includes jack points at rear
13. Driver’s side lower crash bar includes built in step at the front, easier to climb in and out
14. Repositioned cage bar at drivers left elbow area, moved the rear of bar down. This was a pet peeve with Spec Miata, so I had to move it as I didn’t want my elbow bouncing or hitting the bar again.
15. Steel plated under seat and passenger area – Kit came with aluminum
16. Added Seat mounting plate with bolts flush with cross brace, moved seat as far inboard as possible, now centered with steering wheel.
17. Added seat belt mounting nuts. Removed existing tabs
18. Added bar from top center of rear firewall to passenger side mid door, including bar from there to bottom center of front firewall. Reinforcing tub.
19. Mostly followed Zacks design on the rear wing and crash bar. Made all [6] 1” bars adjustable with solid rod ends, LH thread cleats were used as no one makes LH Thread ˝ solid rod ends.
20. Rear bumper guard extended to sides of bumper
21. Mount rear tow hook
22. Reinforce front radiator support to accept tow hook
23. Add door mount bracket, front of door
24. Rear fender mount tabs
25. Main engine brace, 2 bolt holes did not align, cut and modify brace to accept all 4 bolts to chassis.
26. Tabs added to main hoop – more on that later
27. Harness Bar added
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The added steel will add weight, however I would prefer to be safer with-it, than without.
Did I miss anything? Any suggestions of items that need to be welded, cut or modified before I send it to the powder coaters tomorrow?
Hobby Racer
03-19-2020, 08:07 AM
You have to post some pics of all those mods!
You have to post some pics of all those mods!
I will tomorrow when I load it on the trailer. She is not picture worthy yet as I need to clean it up first, then remove the suspension, wheels and steering rack.
DSR-3
03-19-2020, 01:10 PM
Very cool. I look forward to seeing the reworked chassis.
Did I miss anything? Any suggestions of items that need to be welded, cut or modified before I send it to the powder coaters tomorrow?
'probably not looking to do more major work now that you're about to go for PC, but... now would be a good time to replace (or mod) the center bulkhead diagonals to allow for the install of an EZ30/36. :)
Pictures showing the start of modifications to the chassis.
The Factory powder coat does not like heat, from cutting, grinding or welding. It sure makes a mess. Good thing all the fab work was done at my friends place.
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Added photos to Post # 46
This all started with the broomstick test ! Very happy with the end result. Will post new pictures after it comes back with its new powder coat.
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aquillen
03-26-2020, 01:55 PM
Love your garage - any Wolf's Head 30 Weight stickers... (the old green cans). ?
jforand
03-27-2020, 12:17 AM
Wow, you pretty much went medieval on that chassis! Really appreciate the pics. There are probably a handful of things there that I will likely be doing. Can’t wait to destroy my brand new white powder coating.
During the past week there has been a couple of developments and changes prior to sending the chassis for its new powder coat.
Added [5] nuts on the rear impact guard to mount the bumper cover, providing a secure and easy way to remove it from the rear bumper guard
Realized the rear tow hook would interfere with the transmission (doh) relocated it to the passenger side of the rear brace.
Added exhaust hanger on rear bumper guard.
Spent hours and hours (too many hours) trying to develop, design, mockup a rear hinge for the complete engine bay (2 piece that will become one piece) hinged at the rear bumper. Took a trunk hinge from an Impreza sedan, which did not work, modified or not modified to only realize the hinge point needs to be placed outside of the rear bumper cover to make it work based on the swing arc, or at least that is my best guess.
Zak created a very elaborate mechanism with his wing mount which I may have to copy. Considering this is a race car i was hoping for a simple solution, not expensive nor complex.
Sgt.Gator
04-02-2020, 12:40 PM
Good frame mods. The best 818 cage for racing I've seen (w/o a Halo :cool:). I'm looking forward to your completion and seeing the corner weights.
Good frame mods. The best 818 cage for racing I've seen (w/o a Halo :cool:). I'm looking forward to your completion and seeing the corner weights.
Thank you sir. Chassis should be back first of next week with a new fresh white powder coat.
Have lots of other things in the works. Engine is almost ready with some cool mods, hoping for 375+ WHP on pumped gas. Only thing left to buy is a turbo, they are surprisingly expensive, argh. This will be my first turbo race car.
So many great people on here that provide wisdom and inspiration...thank you everyone.
Decided to do some some nice subtle cosmetic changes to the body, this should be fun. Nothing crazy as it is a race car after all. Stay tuned.
Back home with fresh powder coat.
Looking forward to the next step.
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Sorry about the orientation of the pictures, tried changing them with no success.
A racer friend of mine wants the chassis with body work attached so he can do the fiberglass work, how could I refuse that free offer. In exchange I will have to allow him to drive the car... once.. and not during a race weekend lol.
Considering not much work is being done on it as i am in the middle of landscaping and building retaining walls at home, I thought it was a good time to send it over to him.
It looks so white with all the pieces on.
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Hobby Racer
01-28-2021, 10:04 AM
Looking for an update. Now that your registered for the June event at VIR I can't wait to meet you and see your car in person!
Thanks Hobby Racer for the reminder. Didn't realize it has been so long since i posted on here.
Lots happening including another chassis modification - more on that another day.
Engine Update
The following is a list of the build;
USDM 04 STI Engine FFR818r #71
IAG Stage 2 EJ Short Block
(w/ New OEM Case Halves, STD Bore 99.5mm IAG-Spec Pistons, IAG Spec H-Beam Rods, OEM Crank)
JE Pro Seal Subaru EJ25/EJ257 100mm 0.039in Head gasket
IAG AVCS & Turbo Oil Feed Line
Used B25 Heads, planed, 3-angle advanced valve job, new valve seals, Stage 2 272 Camshafts, single AVCS, new bronze exhaust guides
GSC Power-Division Single Valve Spring Set w/ Titanium Retainers
GSC Standard Size 32mm Exhaust Valve Set
GSC Standard Size 36mm Intake Valve Set
ARP Head Bolts
NA intake manifold, modified & turned 180 degrees. Powder coated red
Torque Solution Phenolic Thermal Intake Spacers 19mm
Custom Alternator brackets to suit rotated intake
Subaru oil Pump 11mm
IAG Billet Timing Belt Guide (Red)
Timing belt kit – Gates racing belt,
Tensioner
Timing belt idler smooth x2
Timing belt idler small next to tensioner
Timing belt idler gear
Timing belt covers - OEM
Water pump OEM
Okada Plasma direct coil packs and boots
Cobb 1050x Injectors
IAG PTFE Fuel System kit with lines, FPR Black fuel rails
Garrett Turbo G25-660 non waste gated with oil restrictors and water line adapters
Killer B Oil pan and pickup with Arctangent Design Oil Control Plate
Tomei Expreme, Equal length exhaust manifold
New OEM engine wiring harness
Cusco Engine solid mounts
New OEM motor mount brackets
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Another modification - Main Roll hoop
As per post #46, list of mods # 26 i mentioned adding tabs to the roll hoop. The intent was to have a friend, who offered and suggested, covering the roll hoop in fiberglass. I have zero experience with fiberglass so i thought why not let him do it. Well with Covid-19 and numerous other reasons it never worked out ( all for the better i believe)
Once the fiberglass idea was dead i cut the tabs off - oh there goes the powder coat again lol.
Since i made a new main hoop and raised it, was easy to make another hoop as i had all the measurements. Placing the additional hoop behind the main one was very tricky due to the higher and longer diagonal bars going to the back and getting narrower the further you move away from the main hoop. Trying to get the second hoop to align and look good was very time consuming. Once in place i added (3) 1” spacers along the horizontal with the same DOM pipe. Using tie down straps to pull the ends together was useful.
Once it was all welded in and cleaned up it was time for the body work - not my favourite thing to do.
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Next was to fill in between the two bars. I started with high density low expanding foam, great stuff to work with and very easy to shape.
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While that was setting up i measured and cut (4) .030 steel plates to fill in the triangle open area. These were put in place with panel bond as I thought this would be much easier to work with including providing a better finished product then welding them in.
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The fun body work part, i started with ABC Glass (short fibre) to smooth out the holes and shape the areas. That stuff dries rock hard. Cheese grater, sanding and more glass, cheese grating and sanding i was ready for light weight body fill. After that stage was complete i used Evercoat metal glaze for a nice smooth finish. Sanded down starting with 100 all the way to 320 with a quick scuff of 600.
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Finished with spray can paint, 2 coats of Krylon Primer and 2 coats of High Gloss white enamel.
I wasn’t too concerned with my lack of experience, imperfections with body fill as i plan on wrapping it anyway.
Overall i think it really looks great and changes the look of the car.
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biknman
02-22-2021, 10:17 AM
Has anyone put in a quick steering rack? If so what did you use?
I have a Woodward rack but I'm a center seat too so. Ratio is 2.02 with if I remember right the rack travel is 5in, my steering wheel is 13" dia, and the tie rods are around 6" long, so it like 1.2 turns lock to lock. 143206
Santiago
02-22-2021, 10:51 AM
I wasn’t too concerned with my lack of experience, imperfections with body fill as i plan on wrapping it anyway.
Overall i think it really looks great and changes the look of the car.
Agreed! Looks great - I know you're wrapping it, but if you were keeping the body red, the red/white combo is pretty cool here.
Does anyone have an exterior outline of the car in vector file format? Want to play with color, decal placement and overall wrapped look of the car.
I did ask FFR, they sent the standard images that are on the website which is not workable.