You can remove your TKO w/out removing your engine or trans. tunnel cover.

[CDXXVII]

Results may vary.:cool: I had to remove my transmission due to it developing a bad leak. Someone stated to me that Tremec Transmissions are 50/50 in that every other one shipped will leak. Both my good friend and I had bad leaks that required removal so my experience is worse than that.

Fortunately for me the job ended up not being a huge deal. My roadster is finished and I dreaded having to work on it again. Last year I did the Head Gaskets on a nearly new Ford Racing 427 crate engine.

Just for the record. You can remove your transmission from underneath the Roadster without removing your transmission tunnel cover.

I highly recommend having a second set of hands but it can be done by yourself.

Keep in mind that our builds differ and while this worked for me, it may not work for you. I have my shifter in the traditional location which allowed me to access all 6 bolt and remove the shifter assembly from under the roadster. I am not sure that you can do the same with a midshift. I also have a 3-link but I think it would work the same with IRS.

This was a ton less work than removing the engine and transmission as a complete assembly. By myself it took less than 3 hours to do and that's because I'm slow and I clean and catalog everything as I go. Note: I spent more time in crating and shipping than I did removing it.

1. Remove driveshaft, Transmission mount, Clutch slave, Starter and Shifter including Transmission Shifter.

2. Don't forget to unplug your speed sensor and in my case, Neutral switch.

3. Go buy the cheap transmission jack from Harbor Freight. This is key if you do not remove your transmission tunnel cover.

4. Take your time.

With the driveshaft removed I was able to slide the transmission back quite a bit but not far enough for the input shaft to clear the bellhousing. To get the transmission out you need to unbolt the bellhousing and lower it and your transmission front down at the same time until you can get the bellhousing out. Once you have the bellhousing out you can raise the transmission up again, move it all the way forward to clear the frame and then lower it down and out.

Piece of cake as they say. Hopefully the reverse works out the same.

Here is my trans. on a Harbor Freight $78 transmission jack.
99710

Here it is crated and ready to ship to Liberty's Gears for some upgrades.
99709

[wareaglescott]

Thanks for posting. Have often wondered how that might work out if needed.

[Jazzman]

This is information I hope I never need, but am glad to have nonetheless!! :cool:

[boat737]

How do you support the engine? Is it pretty much self balancing in the two motor mounts?

And did you do it on a lift, or on jack stands, or ..?

[CDXXVII]

The side pipes with long tube headers pretty much keep everything level but I do have a jackstand under the oil pan to keep stress off the sidepipes while I wait for the transmission to get back. I did everything with the jackstands as in the photo. I would suggest getting a few inches higher to roll out the transmission on the trans. jack. It did not clear as is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99800&d=1546135019





How do you support the engine? Is it pretty much self balancing in the two motor mounts?

And did you do it on a lift, or on jack stands, or ..?

[boat737]

Thanks Marcel.

'Nother question. Was the trans leak at the input shaft? Do you think input shaft alignment could be a contributing factor? Bell housing mis alignment? Just curious. Glad it's going as good as it can at this point. All the best.

[CDXXVII]

Not 100% sure where it’s leaking from. I dialed in the belhousing and it was within spec. I originally had a leak at the input shaft bearing carrier and re sealed it. There was hardly any sealant from the factory there. I suspect the current leak is at the lower bearing carrier “plug”. Either way I am having Liberty’s go through everything.


Thanks Marcel.

'Nother question. Was the trans leak at the input shaft? Do you think input shaft alignment could be a contributing factor? Bell housing mis alignment? Just curious. Glad it's going as good as it can at this point. All the best.

[Ducky2009]

Glad to know it can be done. I had a leak at the tail shaft joint. I split the case while the front case was still bolted it. You can slide the tail shaft back about 8 inches.... enough to reseal it. Biggest concert, don't let the counter shaft race come out of the case while working.

Same concern for you. Don't let the counter shaft race come out. Nothing holding it in except the shaft when assembled. There are shims behind the race that you don't want to lose.

[Joe390]

I did it without a trans. jack......next time I'll get one..!

[boat737]

I did it without a trans. jack......next time I'll get one..!

Next time? That's planning ahead.

[cfriedman67]

I wanted to say thank you for posting this. I had to remove my TKO 500 and it was fairly easy following your instructions.

[JETAV8R]

Bought one of these transmission jacks from Harbor Freight today. Tremec sent me a new replacement T5 transmission a couple of weeks ago. I had been starring at it and had all but decided I was going to have to pull the engine to get it all mated back together. Two hours later and it was all bolted back up. I sure am glad I didn't pull the engine.

[JRL16]

Last winter I noticed my TKO was leaking where the output shaft housing bolts to the trans. I understood that it would be a fix that might call for an engine pull to remove the trans. Sure didn't want to have to do that. After thinking it over and doing a lot of research, I decided pulling it would be a last resort and I would try to think outside the box. If worse came to worse I would have plenty of time to fix it "right" and still have the car ready for the driving season. Best fix by far and one that's still working to this day is JB Weld applied to the outside of the trans and shaft housing where they meet. I had to first drain the trans to keep the seal dry while it sets up. It took days for it to stop leaking after draining the trans because the fluid has no way to drain from the tail shaft area. Just had to wait for it to leak out. No problem during Ohio winters. After the temperatures started to warm a little I took a file to the area that was leaking to try to have a nice flat area to apply the sealer to making sure to leave it scuffed enough for the adhesive to get a good bite. The original JB Weld has extreme adhesive ratings and withstands a lot of pressure so that was the product of choice. It also is the same color of the trans making it difficult to see the fix. After application you can trim it down with files or sandpaper to make it look decent. Also I put thread seal on the two lower bolts in the tail shaft housing just in case the fluid leak was coming from there. My trans fluid was everywhere but It wasn't coming from the bolts as it leaked after the thread seal. After the JB Weld I've enjoyed an entire season with the car and not a drop has leaked. If it ever has to be removed from the trans a simple grinder can remove it. Not exactly a text book repair but it worked.

[CraigS]

Yep, JB Weld is great stuff. I use it on cars and gun sights. Not that it is the same but I also like UltraGrey RTV. I once had leakage from the intake to block wall joint. 3 cycles of brake cleaner and compressed air drying, and I spread it over the joint. Tried as best I could to squish it into the joint. Let it sit 24 hours. Fixed that leak 100%. Another 'not a textbook repair' that worked fine.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Yep, JB Weld is great stuff. I use it on cars and gun sights. Not that it is the same but I also like UltraGrey RTV. I once had leakage from the intake to block wall joint. 3 cycles of brake cleaner and compressed air drying, and I spread it over the joint. Tried as best I could to squish it into the joint. Let it sit 24 hours. Fixed that leak 100%. Another 'not a textbook repair' that worked fine.

Just curious, have used it for a number of things with excellent results. Last week to fix my mail box's alloy bracket that my across the street neighbor backed into ripping it in half & the mailbox off the upright. Have two lever guns, an M4 & a M1911ACP & was wondering how you used it on the gun sights.