Living the Dream - Applied for Title and Registration

[Cruzzz]

Put my order in for a complete MKIV kit this past week! I got the car bug when I bought my wife a 1965 convertible mustang for her 40th a few years ago. It was previously repainted and the interior refurbished but the engine and everything you couldn’t see was a mess. I’ve just about wrapped everything on her car keeping it as original, and safe, as possible.

Being a year+ shy of my own 40th she encouraged me to pursue my dream car as well and put in the order. Goal is to enjoy the build journey but have it completed for my 40th.

Thanks in advance for all the help!

[BadAsp427]

Welcome to the madness of the build. You've come to the right place for help with the build and with spending money. If you have not all ready done so, be sure to read through the many different threads of some masterful builders on here. There are some really awesome ideas that you will want to copy or that will get your own creative juices flowing. It seems that everyone here is willing to help in some way or another. Looking forward to watching your build progress.

[wareaglescott]

Nice looking 65!!

Welcome aboard. What are your build plans?

[GoDadGo]

Welcome To The Factory Five Family!

The complete kit is the way to go and working with all new parts is way more fun than playing the refurbishing game.
Heck, maybe consider painting your car to match, or not, but here is a little motivation to go:.. Red, Red, Red!

Mr. Shelby's Own CSX 3178 Sells:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJpASOjJWa8

Other Pics Of That Car, And Some Others, To Motivate You:
https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=AwrE199qjRdcWGkAWwpXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEy OWY2NDlsBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjU4NTlfMQRzZW MDc2M-?p=shelby+cobra+csx+3178&fr=mcafee

[Fixit]

Welcome to the asylum...
One of the things you'll have to get your head wrapped around is building an entire car with all new parts. No fighting 50 year old rusty, mis-aligned, whacked in a wreck 35 years ago, old car name-it.

[PeteMeindl]

Welcome Cruzzz! You're in for a great time and a great group of people here to share it with!

[Ponymedic]

Welcome to the club Im in a very similar place . Picking up my Roadster in February. Just Finished a 1966 stang I built for my wife and have another for myself. As mentioned before going to be nice not to come in from the garage with filthy greasy hands from scaping some old nasty part

[Cruzzz]

Here is a summary of my build so far although I'm sure there will be a few more changes before delivery and during the build:

MKIV complete kit
Chassis powder coat
Low-back vintage seats
Power steering
Vintage GPS gauge set
Over-rider set
Windshield wiper kit
Brake duct wire mesh
Blank dash
DS chrome roll bar and grommets
Assembled side louvers
Trunk gas struts
IRS suspension
IRS center section, spindles, hubs
Wind wings
Heater/defroster
Halibrand 17x9 and 17x10.5 wheels
Stock Mustang brakes

Gen 2 Coyote and TKO 600 (Forte)

Other options:
Russ Thompson trunk drop
Front battery
Forte hydraulic clutch
Breeze Seat mounting kit
Gas-N Headers and Side Pipes
Cobra seat heaters

[Pat427]

Congrats! Your planned build looks very similar to mine. I'll be following along closely.

[Cruzzz]

Got the frame buck together last night with some supervision. Hopefully finish up the body buck tonight before heading out of town for the holidays. Also waiting for a dry day to move the mustang to my other garage. Its no trailer queen but I have spent too much time and effort removing all the rust to put it out in the rain even for a couple minutes.

993289932999325

[VAHokie]

Got the frame buck together last night with some supervision. Hopefully finish up the body buck tonight before heading out of town for the holidays. Also waiting for a dry day to move the mustang to my other garage. Its no trailer queen but I have spent too much time and effort removing all the rust to put it out in the rain even for a coupe minutes.

993289932999325

Which plans did you use for that chassis dolly or is it an original? I'm planning to start this one (http://cobra.chrisarella.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Factory-Five-Roadster-MkIV-Chassis-Dolly-ChrisArella.pdf) over the weekend.

[Cruzzz]

Which plans did you use for that chassis dolly or is it an original? I'm planning to start this one (http://cobra.chrisarella.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Factory-Five-Roadster-MkIV-Chassis-Dolly-ChrisArella.pdf) over the weekend.

I leveraged a design by Jazzman (that was derivative of a few others designs) found here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24433-Frame-Dolly-and-Body-Buck-Plans-for-the-FFR-MkIV-Roadster&highlight=frame+dolly+buck). Also using the frame buck measurements included in the same thread.

[PeteMeindl]

Got the frame buck together last night with some supervision. Hopefully finish up the body buck tonight before heading out of town for the holidays. Also waiting for a dry day to move the mustang to my other garage. Its no trailer queen but I have spent too much time and effort removing all the rust to put it out in the rain even for a couple minutes.

993289932999325

Ha! I've got a similar supervisor. Although in my dolly pic, she's lying down on the job, similar to your pic #2:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28989-Meindl-Mk-IV-Build, post 20....

Your chassis dolly looks good!

[Fixit]

Depending on the condition of your back, you may consider something like this
99383
I kinda "imagineered" it from dimensions on other dollies, but it sure was nice to have the bottom of the car at knee-height.

[cv2065]

Depending on the condition of your back, you may consider something like this
99383
I kinda "imagineered" it from dimensions on other dollies, but it sure was nice to have the bottom of the car at knee-height.

I definitely would have liked it at this height. I have the standard dolly height and put a floor in today and my back is on fire! Get it as high as you can.

[Joe390]

Congratulations Cruzzz……….!

[Cruzzz]

Well tomorrow is the official completion date. Talked to Stewarts today and they said there is a trip on its way to Arkansas right now and mine should be on the next load that will be picked up around 2/11. Which just happens to be my birthday!

I got in on Herbs door panel deal and am eagerly anticipating their arrival in the next day or two. I'm planning black leather for the door panels, dash, trans tunnel cover and possibly the top half of the back wall similar to what Fixit did. I ordered the leather off Ebay thanks to Papa's tip and had it shipped directly to Herb to save a few dollars on shipping.

I've also started to acquire some of the other odds and ends like these cleco's.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101614&d=1549068885

and a 2-Ton Engine Hoist and Dolly from HF.

Now I just need the temps to improve and the snow to melt so Stewarts can get here sooner!

[MSumners]

Looks great. I have a nearly identical build planned and completion date is early March so it'll be great to follow along.

[BadAsp427]

I'm planning black leather for the door panels, dash, trans tunnel cover and possibly the top half of the back wall similar to what Fixit did.

Just a heads up, if your going to do the back wall with the leather, your going to want to keep it as smooth as possible. Every little bump will show in the leather. I followed the FIxit look as well, I had to pull the leather back off and sand down the lizard skin to get the smooth look. It wasn't hard, just a bit of time and actually having the lizard skin on there helped cover the rivet heads. Check my thread on this if you wish... (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29472-Carl-s-20th-Anniversary-8690-Finished-Gel-Coat-Driver&p=348421&viewfull=1#post348421)
101622 101623
I still have to pull the trans cover off and correct the imperfection of the fill plate that shows... the leather exaggerates everything.

[Ponymedic]

Picking mine up three days after my birthday

[Cruzzz]

BadAsp - Thanks for the heads up! I’ll plan to smooth the back wall out before I apply the leather. Will probably put down 1/8” padding too.

[Fixit]

2x on keeping the back wall smooth... Thinking back on it, if I was to do it again, I'd probably tear out little nubs (halfway through) of the sheet padding I used over each rivet head, then glue it in place - smooth side out.

The only place where the rivet heads printed through that's visible is between the seats... nearly all others are concealed.

[Yama-Bro]

Congrats and Welcome. Those clecos will be super handy. I know mine have been.

[Cruzzz]

Received my door panels from Herb today. They look great! Way too early to really get these but I wanted to make sure they were done in the same leather I plan to use for the dash and transmission tunnel cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102090&d=1550019237
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102091&d=1550019252

In this picture you can see Herb includes industrial strength Velcro to attach it to the door. The grayish/blue is the back side of the pocket.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102092&d=1550019268

Stewart's should be picking my kit up tomorrow or Thursday.

[Cruzzz]

Delivery day arrived this past Tuesday and Scott from Stewart's has to be one of the friendliest people I have every met. After a couple snow storms the during the prior week the skies cleared and the sun came out while we shuttled everything into its new home

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102649&d=1550974537
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102650&d=1550974548

I spent the next few days doing a full inventory and glad I did. Gaining familiarity with each of the parts should pay dividends down the road. Just two bolts, two screws, and two lengths of brake line missing from what was supposed to be here. Only major items in the POL list are the gas tank, wiper parts box, and the drive shaft. Won't need any of those for a couple weeks or more.

Some of my favorite items from the inventory process:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102651&d=1550974563
Beautiful wood! My wife's favorite too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102652&d=1550974577
Love the classic look.

Also got an assist from my wife today and removed the body and put it on the body dolly in another garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102653&d=1550974589

This is how it sits as of tonight. Plan to spend most of the day tomorrow marking and drilling panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102654&d=1550974604
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102656&d=1550974643

[BadAsp427]

AWESOME!!!! Now the real fun can begin.... Congratulations...

[Cruzzz]

Its been a busy last two weeks including ordering several items (aka spending money) from supporting vendors, drilling holes, painting and starting assembly.

I completed the front suspension including trimming down the UCA adjusting sleeves mentioned by Fixit and others. There is no way you would even be close to the initial alignment measurements given in the manual without doing this. Highly recommend completing this during assembly. I also attempted to use the provided upper ball joints (even with some removal of powder coating on the threads) to no avail. Ordered the Moog K772 ball joints recommended by Edwardb and the went in no problem. Funny part is on top of the ball join is stamped "Problem Solver".

Please let me know if you see anything out of place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103488&d=1552164973

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103487&d=1552164942

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103485&d=1552164914

Also installed the power steering rack using the solid offsets sold by Mike Everson. Ordered the Moog ES2150R tied rod ends while I was at it following Edwardb's lead again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103486&d=1552164914

In the midst of assembly went ahead and ordered the following. As mentioned before doing my part to help the economy.:

ReplicaParts.com (Mike Everson)
- 2" roll bar studs (thanks for milling these for me Mike!)
- Russ Thompson turn signal grommet
- Front license plate bracket (inexpensive piece to help with Illinois inspection)
- Set of Weather Pack connectors
- Seat belt trim plates

Breeze Automotive
- Front battery mount
- Seat bases
- Radiator fan shroud
- Hinged radiator mounting kit
- Lower radiator support kit
- Power steering rack offsets

Tangent Technologies:
- Hidden roll bar fasteners for 2" roll bar

Russ Thompson
- Turn signal system
- Drop trunk kit

Last but not least...

Mike Forte Performance Parts:
- Coyote Engine
- TKO600 Transmission
- Hydraulic Clutch
- Installation package (all the stuff not provided in the FFR Coyote install package)
- Cobra seat heaters
- Triple CNC Reservoirs (FYI...if you want a set of these better order soon Mike mentioned it is a family business and they are likely closing this Spring)

[Cruzzz]

Speaking of engine...look what showed up yesterday.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103484&d=1552164914

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103483&d=1552164914

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103482&d=1552164914

[bluse]

Its been a busy last two weeks including ordering several items (aka spending money) from supporting vendors, drilling holes, painting and starting assembly.

I completed the front suspension including trimming down the UCA adjusting sleeves mentioned by Fixit and others. There is no way you would even be close to the initial alignment measurements given in the manual without doing this. Highly recommend completing this during assembly. I also attempted to use the provided upper ball joints (even with some removal of powder coating on the threads) to no avail. Ordered the Moog K772 ball joints recommended by Edwardb and the went in no problem. Funny part is on top of the ball join is stamped "Problem Solver".

Please let me know if you see anything out of place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103488&d=1552164973

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103487&d=1552164942

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103485&d=1552164914

Also installed the power steering rack using the solid offsets sold by Mike Everson. Ordered the Moog ES2150R tied rod ends while I was at it following Edwardb's lead again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103486&d=1552164914

In the midst of assembly went ahead and ordered the following. As mentioned before doing my part to help the economy.:

ReplicaParts.com (Mike Everson)
- 2" roll bar studs (thanks for milling these for me Mike!)
- Russ Thompson turn signal grommet
- Front license plate bracket (inexpensive piece to help with Illinois inspection)
- Set of Weather Pack connectors
- Seat belt trim plates

Breeze Automotive
- Front battery mount
- Seat bases
- Radiator fan shroud
- Hinged radiator mounting kit
- Lower radiator support kit
- Power steering rack offsets

Tangent Technologies:
- Hidden roll bar fasteners for 2" roll bar

Russ Thompson
- Turn signal system
- Drop trunk kit

Last but not least...

Mike Forte Performance Parts:
- Coyote Engine
- TKO600 Transmission
- Hydraulic Clutch
- Installation package (all the stuff not provided in the FFR Coyote install package)
- Cobra seat heaters
- Triple CNC Reservoirs (FYI...if you want a set of these better order soon Mike mentioned it is a family business and they are likely closing this Spring)

I see you have the FF5 Vinyl dash and you ordered the Russ Thompson turn signal grommet from Replica Parts. Mike told me that the grommet he sells for the Russ Thompson turn signel will NOT work with the Vinyl dash, FYI. Not sure if Replica Parts modified the part or not since I checked.

[Cruzzz]

Hi bluse - Good eyes on my original list. Maybe I should update it as I changed my mind on many items including the dash (engine, etc...). I ended up ordering a blank dash so I could design my own layout.

[Cruzzz]

Update for the last two weeks...

I feel like I'm surrounded by unfinished projects (5 to be exact) due to pieces at the powder coater (pedal box brackets), missing bolts/nuts and defective shock (drivers side IRS), POL'd tie rods (front end), drop trunk kit accidentally mailed to the wrong address (finishing all the panels and powder coating), steering shaft (front of drivers footbox at PC)….but as we know there is always something else to do. : )

I sent off all the front panels and miscellaneous small parts for powder coating about seven days ago and got a call today they are ready for pick. The shop is conveniently only 5 miles away. I plan to pick them up Saturday morning and drop off most of the remaining panels including the cockpit and trunk.

Installed the differential by myself with few problems using a floor jack and towel on the frame to keep from scratching it.

Next got to work on the IRS. Overall this was pretty straight forward but I wasn't able to completely finalize this project due to a defective shock and a two missing bolts and nuts I noted during inventory and submitted to FFR. (Waiting patiently)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104158&d=1553228362

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104157&d=1553228344

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104159&d=1553228383

While previously working on the front end I left the brake calipers loose so I could research better pads and ended up ordering a set of Hawk HPS pads (will put HP+ on the rear). The consensus is that these are far superior to the supplied pads and combined with HP+ pads on the rear it should stop quickly.

Anyone know what are the correct HP+ pads for the rear when using the standard IRS brakes?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104163&d=1553228460

I also received most of the other items ordered from Forte's including the Tremec TKO600, Moroso oil pan, polished intake, fuel pump, and hydraulic clutch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104160&d=1553228406

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104161&d=1553228426

Mike also provided a loaner set of engine lift plates that will make the install much easier. Plan to try them out in a few days when I move the Coyote onto a rolling dolly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104162&d=1553228444

[WIS89]

Update for the last two weeks...


Mike also provided a loaner set of engine lift plates that will make the install much easier. Plan to try them out in a few days when I move the Coyote onto a rolling dolly.



Cruzzz-

I liked your update, but what stood out to me is the quote above. How awesome is it that one of the forum vendors helped out like this?

I already thought highly of Mike Forte; this just enhances my opinion; way to go Mike!!

Regards,

Steve

[Cruzzz]

Agreed! Mike’s knowledge and customer service are top notch. He helped set me up with essentially all the miscellaneous parts needed to install my Coyote and TKO that weren’t included with the FFR Coyote install kit. Mike also did some machine work on the TKO to make sure it was a perfect fit in the MKIV frame.

[Cruzzz]

Picked up everything I had previously sent off to the power coater which is probably 80% of the panels and all the odds and ends brackets etc. I had everything done in satin black to match the frame. I like black in the engine bay as it really allows all the chrome and other items to stand out against the black background. I need to finish making the inner trunk panels and cut the wiper, heater, and wiring holes in the firewall before sending the last small batch to the powder coater

Here are a few pictures of the F panels riveted in place and some others just Cleco’d. I plan to heed others advice and leave most everything loose until the very last for accessibility.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104841&d=1554088486

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104842&d=1554088594

Originally I thought about painting the rivets to match but I really like the silver/aluminum against the black.

Forgot to take many pictures but I also started on the pedal box. Used Shark Hide on the brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=104844&d=1554088618

Completed a few other items I will post pictures of later this week including mounting the Breeze front battery box and mocking up the Russ Thompson drop trunk box. Both are nice kits and highly recommended.

This week is a big week for deliveries. Expecting the remaining POL items from FFR including the replacement shock and some missing items noted during the initial inventory. It will be nice to finally have all the parts on hand and wrap up some of the nearly finished projects.

I’m also looking forward to receiving my last box from Mike Forte with the hydraulic clutch kit then I can add the other master cylinder to the pedal box. I’ll also have everything needed to marry the transmission and engine along with peripherals.

[Fixit]

Looking good!!

One thing I saw that you'll need to check - it might just be the camera angle or something, but it looks like you've got the steer arms "wrong way up" / the big side of the tapered hole up.
104946

They get bolted on the car on the wrong side from stamped. The "DS" on the passenger side, PS on the driver's side.

[Cruzzz]

Fixit - The wider opening of the tapered whole is supposed to face down correct? I originally installed them with the wider opening facing up when I didn’t realize there was a difference and after seeing it called out on another thread pulled it all apart and switched sides and flipped them over.

Thanks for checking!

[Cruzzz]

Making some progress. As mentioned before I installed the front battery mount from Breeze. Had it powder coated to match the frame like the panels. Great product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105337&d=1554779779

I had all the small parts powder coated but they are laying on shipping paper around my work area. Concerned they moght get stepped on or damaged, and that I want to say a project was complete, I went ahead and assembled the hood hinges. Lots of pieces but went together pretty easily. Pay attention to the direction of the bushings when inserting. It does matter. Can’t wait to mount the hood on these!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105336&d=1554779742

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105335&d=1554779718

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105334&d=1554779688

[Cruzzz]

In the spirit of getting powder coated pieces off the floor I also assembled the e-brake handle and loosely mounted to the frame until I get the rear calipers that are on back order.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105333&d=1554779667

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105332&d=1554779652

When looking at upgrades I ordered the Breeze Fan Shroud and upper/lower mounting kits. I started prep work for installing the kit over the weekend with painting the piano hinge and lower support brackets, mounting the fan to the shroud, and prepping the frame to receive the piano hinged.

Prepping the frame involves removing the two square tube pieces attached to the bottom side of the front square frame tube. I used a few cutting discs on my Dremel then coated the bare steel with flat black paint to match the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105331&d=1554779631

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105330&d=1554779617

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105329&d=1554779595

I will mock up the remainder of the radiator install this week and probably remove and set aside until after the engine install.

[Cruzzz]

Last update for tonight. I called FFR a couple weeks ago to check on POL items and they mentioned they were waiting on a few more items and would send everything out together. Sounded good as I've been patiently waiting for a few bolts and the replacement shock to wrap up the rear end among the other POL items. So FedEx freight calls and schedules the delivery last week while I am out of town. When I get back I see a giant ~4'x5' box was delivered and I fully expected it to be packed tight with my remaining items. This is what the inside looked like...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=105339&d=1554779828

Gas tank, shock, two gas lines, odds/ends and.... a whole lot of empty space. I was disappointed there were no rear calipers but mostly dumbfounded by how much wasted shipping space there was since most shippers charge by size and weight. I'm a big fan of FFR but this can't be cost effective right?

[edwardb]

Looks good. Just a hint on the hood hinges -- most of us ditch those wavy washers. You may have to sort through some 3/8-inch washers (I think that's the right size) to get the right thicknesses for each. Then tighten against the shoulder bolts loose enough to move OK but tight enough to remove wobble. You'll find the hinges and hood work a lot better that way.

[ThickCobra]

You are making great progress and it's evident you are enjoying the build.

Jay

[FLPBFoot]

Its been a busy last two weeks including ordering several items (aka spending money) from supporting vendors, drilling holes, painting and starting assembly.

I completed the front suspension including trimming down the UCA adjusting sleeves mentioned by Fixit and others. There is no way you would even be close to the initial alignment measurements given in the manual without doing this. Highly recommend completing this during assembly. I also attempted to use the provided upper ball joints (even with some removal of powder coating on the threads) to no avail. Ordered the Moog K772 ball joints recommended by Edwardb and the went in no problem. Funny part is on top of the ball join is stamped "Problem Solver".

Please let me know if you see anything out of place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103488&d=1552164973

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103487&d=1552164942

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103485&d=1552164914

Also installed the power steering rack using the solid offsets sold by Mike Everson. Ordered the Moog ES2150R tied rod ends while I was at it following Edwardb's lead again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103486&d=1552164914

In the midst of assembly went ahead and ordered the following. As mentioned before doing my part to help the economy.:

ReplicaParts.com (Mike Everson)
- 2" roll bar studs (thanks for milling these for me Mike!)
- Russ Thompson turn signal grommet
- Front license plate bracket (inexpensive piece to help with Illinois inspection)
- Set of Weather Pack connectors
- Seat belt trim plates

Breeze Automotive
- Front battery mount
- Seat bases
- Radiator fan shroud
- Hinged radiator mounting kit
- Lower radiator support kit
- Power steering rack offsets

Tangent Technologies:
- Hidden roll bar fasteners for 2" roll bar

Russ Thompson
- Turn signal system
- Drop trunk kit

Last but not least...

Mike Forte Performance Parts:
- Coyote Engine
- TKO600 Transmission
- Hydraulic Clutch
- Installation package (all the stuff not provided in the FFR Coyote install package)
- Cobra seat heaters
- Triple CNC Reservoirs (FYI...if you want a set of these better order soon Mike mentioned it is a family business and they are likely closing this Spring)

You might want to go ahead and cut those rear upper control arm while you have the suspension hanging. With the power steering you'll need to cut them to get the 8 degrees of caster recommended. As others have indicated I took mine back to the flat spot on tube...about 3/8" off each end.

Steve

[Cruzzz]

More progress the last two weeks with brake lines, radiator, gas tank and fuel lines.

I wasn’t happy with the look of the stock brake lines, took what I had done out and picked up some premade sections of Nicopp. I was able to do all the brake lines with 3 - 51”, 1 - 72”, and 1 - 40” sections. Thought it turned out great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106130&d=1555901287

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106131&d=1555901304

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106133&d=1555901342

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106132&d=1555901321

[Cruzzz]

Brake lines continued...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106129&d=1555901259

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106128&d=1555901239

[Cruzzz]

Next worked on the fuel tank. My fuel system is a combination of items from FFR and Mike Forte. As much as I like the look of the Nicopp lines the ease of the quick connect fuel lines from Forte won out. Not to mention I don’t think anyone but me will probably ever see the under side of my car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106135&d=1555901614

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106134&d=1555901581

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106127&d=1555901220

[Cruzzz]

A few posts back I showed prepping the frame to use the Breeze upper radiator mount. I’m also using the Breeze fan shroud and lower radiator mount. Great combination that appears will provide just enough give versus the more rigid mount directly to the frame per the standard install.

Can you spot my supervisor in the pictures below?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106123&d=1555901129

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106126&d=1555901196

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106125&d=1555901173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106124&d=1555901150

[Railroad]

You must be doing a good job, supervisor looks relaxed.
On my Coyote harness the fan feed ran down the upper right side of the frame, if you want to confirm and clock your fan. I have a 66 2+2, not nearly the level of yours, but a nice car. I got the roll bar drilled and fitted, thanks.

106141

[Cruzzz]

Railroad - Glad the roll bar worked out! I'm still going with dual roll bars but opted for the larger diameter used on the MKIII. Thanks for the heads up on the fan feed to wire harness. It will be coming back of when I install the engine so I'll flip it around then.

[Cruzzz]

Been a little while since my last update but moving along. Over the last couple weeks I finished up all the brake system including getting the rear calipers the were on back order mounted. With the rear calipers together I could get the e-brake installed leveraging the two pulley method of running the cables many others have done. I also used the Lokar clevis instead of the supplied parts. Hardest part was drilling the hole for the bolt the pulleys went on. Tight space to get a drill and bit into.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107109&d=1557712099

I had grand plans of starting on electrical this weekend but ran into a couple problems when I started setting up my Russ Thompson steering system. I had previously installed the Coyote gas pedal and the new FFR bracket that sets it up even with the other pedals. The most recent instructions tell you to do some trimming including trimming everything flush on the right side. The problems comes when you try to slide the steering shaft into place. It doesn’t clear the upper pedal mounting ear. After taking the assembly back out and trimming the pedal down to the exact shape of the new FFR mount everything had sufficient clearance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107106&d=1557712043

After all of this was remedied I slide the up shaft back in and noticed the piece that should slide in was a very tight fit and the pillow block wouldn’t slide past the first 5-6” that has a slight taper. Not sure what to do with this. Should I call FFR to get a new shaft or larger pillow block?

[Cruzzz]

While focusing around the drivers side foot box and preparing to start wiring I wanted to get the clutch safety switch done. I used the same method Fixit designed. This was pretty straight forward and made good use of the supplied laser cut brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107105&d=1557712028

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107104&d=1557712008

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107103&d=1557711988

The gas tank was installed a while ago but I have been considering how I wanted to do the vent and decided to use the supplied brake reservoir that was otherwise going unused. Looks nice although no one will ever see it. Stuffed an aquarium carbon filter (30 gallons size I think) inside to help with any potential gas odors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107108&d=1557712079

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107107&d=1557712059

[Fixit]

Looks good... (I'm glad my instructions were written well enough for someone else to translate into action).

The conflict with the steering shaft needs clarification... the "male" end won't slide into the female, or the female won't go into the pillow block?
(In either case, make sure there are no boogers/nicks/dents on the shafts. it's a precise fit and the slightest flaw will hang up. Dress off any nicks with a few swipes of a fine file).

[Cruzzz]

Update on the upper steering shaft and pillow block binding. Here is a picture of all the farther I could originally get it to slide on (it is removed from the bracket).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107320&d=1557977763

After ~15 min of sanding it slide on freely and it looks like we are a go to get the Russ Thompson steering system installed tomorrow!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107317&d=1557977703

[Fixit]

107321

[Cruzzz]

With all my brakes and lines installed I leveraged Mrs. Cruzzz's help bleeding the brakes. Took about 30 minutes and all the air was bled out. Bonus...no leaks! I'm using the standard brake setup from FFR with Hawk brake pads. Should stop pretty well. With our '65 Mustang also having manual brakes we are comfortable with the feel and knowing you may need to press a little harder.

My goal for the weekend was to wrap up the back half of the car including running the rear wiring harness, an extra HAAT wire for a trunk light, and a +12 volt switch wire through the transmission for a back up light. Adding these to the rear harness was pretty easy and then fastened the harness in place using 5/8" rubber lined clamps from the HD.

I also installed the differential vent. This is the same stock Ford vent Edwardb used.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107918&d=1558922142

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107919&d=1558922159

[Cruzzz]

After getting the rear harness run through the transmission tunnel I had to guide everything to the passenger side to make room for the drop trunk. There is plenty of length to do this without putting pressure on anything. You will actually end up with a couple feet of the main rear harness and the fuel pump branch to tie up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107920&d=1558922184

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107921&d=1558922217

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107922&d=1558922320

You can see above how I tied the loose loom up and ran the DS and PS tail light branches. The following shows where I brought the license plate light and trunk light wires into the trunk just behind the PS roll bar stub.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107923&d=1558922335

With everything rear of the cockpit complete I felt safe permanently installing all the trunk tins.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107924&d=1558922352

I also added the Kleiner mod for the quick jack mounts.

[Cruzzz]

Brief post on the Russ Thompson Turn Signal. In an earlier post I shared the trouble I was having getting the pillow block to slide onto the upper shaft. With that resolved it was straight forward using the included instructions and a quick read of Fixit's build thread. Looks and feels like a great addition. Time to get moving on the rest of the wiring.....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107917&d=1558922126

(the steering boss if just slightly installed for now until I get the wiring and dash done.)

[Cruzzz]

Working on all things wiring lately including prepping the blank dash. After cutting the gauge holes and adjusting the steering column opening to work with the Russ Thompson Turn Signal system I mocked the dash up on the frame. I read in a few places to leave 1/8” in the center between the top of the dash and the top of the frame hoop. I started by centering the steering column on the steering column hole, leveled the dash from the bottom edge and clamped everything down with 1/8” at the top as suggested.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108725&d=1560310182

This left the top edge of the dash approximately 3/16” above the frame hoop on the PS and DS.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108724&d=1560310150

Does this look right?

[Cruzzz]

Quick question...I plan to run this through the firewall with the Coyote harness but noticed there are three ground wires. Do the need to be hook to the sensors on the engine or should the be grounded to the frame? If they are to be grounded to the frame can I just take them out of the loom and ground them behind the dash?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108727&d=1560310311

[edwardb]

Quick question...I plan to run this through the firewall with the Coyote harness but noticed there are three ground wires. Do the need to be hook to the sensors on the engine or should the be grounded to the frame? If they are to be grounded to the frame can I just take them out of the loom and ground them behind the dash?

Those ground wires are intended to be used for your gauge sending unit grounds. They don't need to be grounded to the chassis. Your harness is already grounded via the large ground lug to the chassis by the fuse panel.

[Cruzzz]

Looking forward to a road trip to Ohio this weekend for the London Cobra Show. Excited to see everyone’s finished cars and shamelessly steal more ideas for my build. Also hoping to meet up with Mr. Kleiner for our first in person intro as I’ve only had the privilege over the phone or through the forum. I actually called him out of the blue to get on the ‘waitlist’ before my kit had even arrived. What can I say...his work is impressive and I’m sure will be worth the wait.

I also had the opportunity to meet forum member dpariso this weekend at a local car show and checked out his MKIII. Great to meet another FFR fan and roadster owner nearby. He has added several nice touches recently including polished aluminum strips along the sides of the trans tunnel and lighting behind the side vents.

It is wiring central in my garage these days and I recently focused on getting all the power wiring buttoned up in the engine bay. Most of the layout is based on Edwardb’s design. I also used a master disconnect switch but wanted a certain orientation on the cockpit side so that necessitated a slightly different wire routing between the disconnect and main fuse.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109037&d=1560827739

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109036&d=1560827719

Note: Positive terminal is capped and wrapped in electrical tape under the connector for now.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109035&d=1560827702

The red and blue wires coming out of the convolute on the 4” round tube are the power and start sense wires for the starter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109038&d=1560827757

[Cruzzz]

Back from a great weekend visiting family and attending the LCS as a spectator. I lived in the Columbus, OH area for almost 15 years before moving north of Chicago three years ago. Even though I was interested in these cars well before the move I had no idea the largest gathering of cobras was just 45 min. away.

The LCS is a fantastic event! My wife and I drove to Columbus on Friday and stayed with relatives. Late Friday night it was calling for rain the next morning and we decided we would head over after the storms cleared out. I happened to wake up early Saturday and was pleasantly surprised to see the storms stayed to the west and were moving south of London. (I'm sure those that brought their cars breathed a sigh of relief as well.) With the break in the weather we hopped in the car and headed west just in time. We literally just made it passed the line up of cobras before they started their parade into London.

The parade into town is a must see..

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109447&d=1561341064

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109446&d=1561341037

This is just a fraction of the cobras on hand.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109443&d=1561340966

While there I had the privilege of meeting Dave Smith. You can feel the passion he has for not only FFR but the cobra community when talking with him.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109441&d=1561340927

I also had the opportunity to meet Paul (edwardb) and Jeff Kleiner in person. Two great ambassadors of FF and the community. Paul, his wife, and car made a cameo in the picture with Dave Smith above.

[Cruzzz]

As a spectator and in-progress builder this was a great opportunity to see the various customizations, options, and upgrades out there. I also took the opportunity to check out potential paint options in person. Not sure if seeing all these beautiful cars helped narrow my paint scope or not.

Part of the event involves charity rides where some of the cobra owners are gracious to share a ride in their car for a small donation to the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. My brother-in-law, nephew and myself were happy to donate to the cause. Unfortunately I can't remember the gentlemen's name I rode with but a super nice guy (and car).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109448&d=1561341080

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109450&d=1561341118

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109451&d=1561341134

The ride and people I met just reinforced why I'm building this car. Goal is to have mine finished in time to drive in the parade into London next year! Time to get back to building...

[Cruzzz]

I’m working towards dropping the engine in this coming week and need to get the frame on the ground so it was time for tires. It was a tough decision between Nitto 555 G2 and Nitto NT05. In the end I went with the NT05 due to the tread rating and reviews but I found an equal amount of favorable opinions for both on the forum. I would like to participate in a few Autocross’s to learn how to better handle the car and the NT05’s appeared more favorable for the track.

Nitto NT05
Front: 255/40/17
Rear: 315/35/17

Although the frame dolly made moving the car around without wheels a lot easier it was a process to get it off. I had to jack up the rear and set it on jack stands then jack up the front and slide the dolly out. After another round of lifting the car and lowering the jack stands all the way I was able to set it on the ground one end at a time. I did try to do a quick adjustment to the ride height first using the ‘three 2x4’ method mentioned in other threads. It’s still an 1”+ high but there is considerable weight yet to add with the engine, full tank of gas, passengers, etc.

It’s starting to look like a car!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109780&d=1561868281

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109778&d=1561868232

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109779&d=1561868256

[Cruzzz]

Continued working towards being ready to put the engine in this coming week. Over the weekend mounted the block plate, flywheel, clutch, clutch fork, and bell housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109882&d=1561951814

I’m using an SFI certified Quick Time bell housing for extra safety against the potential that the fly wheel would blow apart. The SFI version was only $30 more than the non-SFI version. One drawback is that the bottom of the block plate and bell housing sit considerably lower than the 4” frame rail. This is a big deal since if you should hit something it could do some major damage. I temporarily mounted the block plate and housing. Marked where the bottom edge of the oil pan was, and cutoff the lower parts with a cutoff blade one my grinder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109884&d=1561951900

Then assembled the clutch fork and mounted on the pivot ball in the bell housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109886&d=1561952014

Adjusted the pivot ball to achieve a near parallel clutch fork position in relation to the bell housing transmission mating surface.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109887&d=1561952067

[Cruzzz]

Fortunate to have a couple days off in a row over the holiday and finished getting the engine, bell housing, transmission, starter, hydraulic clutch, and alternator married together. The only hiccups were 1) needing to trim the bottom of the bell housing to get it flush with the bottom of the oil pan and above the frame; 2) retapping one of the bolt holes where the aft support and 3/4” spacer attached to the transmission; and 3) re-tapping the starter threads in the bell housing that had a thick layer of powder coating.

Spent most of Saturday making sure anything that would be inaccessible in the engine bay was wrapped up as well. This included sealing/riveting the remaining inner portions of the foot boxes, clamping down the fuel line, tapping the ground hole on the passenger side engine mount, and adding a hole/grommet to drivers side foot box for the hydraulic clutch line.

To get ready to drop the engine in the next day I removed the steering shaft, swung the brake and hydraulic clutch reservoirs outside the frame, removed the radiator, and removed the hood hinges. I also put the engine leveler on the hoist and hooked up the engine/transmission to let it hang a couple inches off the floor overnight. This was for my piece of mind to prove the hoist setup would hold everything when it was much higher during the install. Would rather drop it two inches than three feet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110334&d=1562547916

The next morning with the help of Mrs. Cruzzz we slowly and methodically set the coyote it. Probably took ~45 minutes. As many have stated it is very tight and you must go slow moving everything in, down, tilt over and over until it finally rests on the engine mounts. I did put the rear up higher on jack stands and the front was on short jack stands. Originally the front was on the tires but it was too low to slide the hoist in underneath. Also attached a ratchet strap to the end of the transmission, under the front round tube and to the hoist to create a greater angle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110335&d=1562547957

All in! No bumps or bruises to the engine, frame, or us.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110336&d=1562548037

Attached the driveshaft adapter and driveshaft.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110333&d=1562547885

View from underneath with hydraulic clutch hooked up/bled and you can see how I trimmed the bottom of the bell housing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110331&d=1562547500

[KDubU]

Congrats! Looks great.

[KDubU]

As a spectator and in-progress builder this was a great opportunity to see the various customizations, options, and upgrades out there. I also took the opportunity to check out potential paint options in person. Not sure if seeing all these beautiful cars helped narrow my paint scope or not.

Part of the event involves charity rides where some of the cobra owners are gracious to share a ride in their car for a small donation to the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. My brother-in-law, nephew and myself were happy to donate to the cause. Unfortunately I can't remember the gentlemen's name I rode with but a super nice guy (and car).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109448&d=1561341080

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109450&d=1561341118

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109451&d=1561341134

The ride and people I met just reinforced why I'm building this car. Goal is to have mine finished in time to drive in the parade into London next year! Time to get back to building...

Hah! Paint choice, one of the hardest decisions as roadsters look good in so many colors. Anything you are considering? We are glad to help you decide on YOUR car. :cool:

[Straversi]

Congrats. The coyote install is a big moment. Good job getting Mrs Cruzzz involved as well. The more connected the wife is to the car, the less likely we see it in the classifieds. Just a theory...
-Steve

[Cruzzz]

For paint I think I have narrowed it to some combination of red and silver/stone. I do really like the “hellfire” that ckrueger has done.

966149661596616

[KDubU]

The Hellfire is very nice. Can’t go wrong with that.

[Fixit]

Congrats on the engine install!! Can't wait for your "1st Start" update!

[Cruzzz]

While continuing work on wiring I have also been pressing on with getting the engine bay tied up. First off I picked up all new fluids (except the oil I drained/saved from the Coyote) to make sure everything was full with the correct fluids from the start. Below is a complete list:

3 x ACDelco 10-4006 Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid - 1 qt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026JK8FA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1IOnDbKE0DK7B

3 x KRC Power Steering PSF 10032001 Power Steering Fluid (KRC Quart), 32 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EM5VP7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kKOnDbSFPW4B4

2 x Genuine Ford Fluid VC-3-B Orange Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BNVK14U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PKOnDbXSMCCKB

2 x Motor Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NU6K6U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lLOnDb6Z7QW36

3 x Motorcraft #XY75W85QL OIL - REAR AXLE (XY75W85QL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B5SRIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_SLOnDb5K0EPN1

1 x Genuine Ford Fluid XL-3 Friction Modifier Additive - 4 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NU5LP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_hMOnDbW9DN86Q

Also installed the awesome GASN stainless headers. Thanks Georgie! Used Remflex gaskets as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111078&d=1563853254

You can see the alternator, oil pressure an water temperature wiring is also completed in the picture above.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111079&d=1563853275

Next ordered a Moroso Gen 2 coolant expansion tank and the required hoses. Made up two brackets from 1 1/4” x 1/8” steel bar to hang the tank from the front 3/4” chassis bar. The tank mounting flange is even with the bottom of the frame bar as others have stated it needs to be for clearance. I do have PM’s out to a couple individuals to confirm this looks right. Easier to change now if I need to rather than when all the hoses are hooked up and coolant is already in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111076&d=1563853209

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111080&d=1563853294

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111082&d=1563853332

[Fixit]

I'd up the coolant to 3 gallons (4 if running a heater) on hand. On first start of 9365 (heater equipped) I had the overflow tank over-full with 3 gallons. When it fired that got sucked down to empty in seconds! Better to have a backup than an "Oh Sheit" moment!

[Cruzzz]

Thanks John - The coolant on hand is a concentrate you mix 50/50 with distilled water. Once it’s mixed I will have around 4 gallons but never hurts to have extra just in case. Heading out to start wrapping this wiring up so I can fire it up soon. Will try to call you today or tomorrow about our possible visit.

[Cruzzz]

Last Saturday morning I went out to start another weekend of work on the roadster and noticed a small pool of liquid on the floor. Turns out after filling and bleeding the power steering system the prior weekend there was a pin hole in one of the welds.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111795&d=1564888376

Sunday night I sent a note with this picture to FF. Called them Monday morning to get their thoughts and after five minutes they were reaching out to KRC to have another reservoir and pump sent out at no cost. I know some take exception to back orders and other minor issues but FFR’s customer service continues to be top notch for me. Well done!

Since everything underneath and around the cockpit is complete I thought it was safe to install the remaining tins. Starting to look more like a car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111793&d=1564888340

[Cruzzz]

Spent most of last weekend plumbing the coolant system. As noted before I’m using the Gen 2 Moroso expansion tank and I ordered all the OEM hoses (not cheap) to tie it all together like it would be in a normal Mustang-Coyote setup. Most of the approach followed a combination of what others have done (see edwardb, Fixit etc.). I found the hardest part was getting the lower radiator hose configured. Here is how it turned out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111787&d=1564888160

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111788&d=1564888183

This method used a 90* stainless exhaust section from Jegs, Breeze bracket, and two parts of a hose from the auto parts store. Very similar to others approach.

I’m also installing a heater and buttoned up the supply lines up for it as well. Most of this layout is based on what Fixit developed including making a bracket to hold it all in the right place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111784&d=1564888037

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111785&d=1564888062

I used Gates Powergrips to clamp down all the coolant connects. These were easy to install, cost similar to metal clamps, but seem to have much more hold power and look great. Highly recommended.

All together...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111786&d=1564888110

[Cruzzz]

Many upgrades to my build are items that are borderline whether they are needed and often items that are part of great debate on the forum (heater, Moroso tank, powder coating.....). Adding an oil separator is one of those but the relatively small cost and ease of doing it while still in the build phase are a no brainer for me.

I ordered the oil separator from JLT and it appears to be a very well designed product. With a few slight alterations to the provided hoses I was able to install it very tight and neatly on the passenger side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111794&d=1564888361

The air cleaner install was straight forward following the FFR Coyote figment instructions. I did need a couple extra nylon fittings that I also ordered from JLT.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111790&d=1564888240

Also finished the fuel line install by connecting the engine fuel rail to the flex line running to the regulator. Fabricated a small ‘shelf’ bracket to fasten the lines down where they connected. Connections at the engine were done using several fittings from Summit to incorporate a fuel pressure gauge and get from the AN hose end to the fuel rail quick connect.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111780&d=1564887963

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111781&d=1564887981

[Cruzzz]

With nearly everything complete in the engine bay I put the engine and valve covers on and I’m really pleased with how clean and tidy it all looks. There is a lot going on in a very small space with the Coyote.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111789&d=1564888207

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111790&d=1564888240

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111791&d=1564888277

This next picture shows the tale of two worlds though...I need to get back to finishing the cockpit wiring. 😀

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111792&d=1564888314

[timmil]

Very nice, just came across your build thread and will be watching. I'm down in the Skokie/Niles area with Mark III so not too far away and glad to see another in the area. I have been having oil pressure issues and right now it is out in Plainfield getting a new oil pump but I expect to get it back sometime this week.

[Straversi]

Looking good. Nice write up.
-Steve

[Fixit]

:cool:

[Cruzzz]

Been a while between updates but a lot has happened (don’t skip to the last post you’ll ruin the surprise).

After staring at the wiring diagram for a while and reaching out to a few forum members the RT wiring finally made sense and it is crazy looking back on how simple it is but my brain couldn’t quite understand a few things. I placed everything on a single mounting plate that was later attached to the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113944&d=1567987953

And wired up...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113945&d=1567988090

[Cruzzz]

As many have stated real estate is at a premium behind the dash and especially if you have a heater. To up the challenge I also wanted a glovebox to store a few small items and aesthetically fill the void on the passenger side dash.

In the end I was able to achieve a uniform glovebox with 1.5” at the bottom and 1.25” at the top. Considerably more than I initially expected.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113942&d=1567987866

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113941&d=1567987821

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113940&d=1567987797

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113939&d=1567987774

[Cruzzz]

I used a blank dash so I could create a hybrid competition layout with a few options ( heated seat switches, Coyote MIL, etc). All the holes were cut after doing test holes and fitting on scrap. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to take the time and do this!

Added 1/8” padding...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113938&d=1567987756

Then got to work on the leather and pie cuts...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113937&d=1567987731

Installed...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113964&d=1567991429

[Cruzzz]

After running through my punch list this was the weekend to see if months of work actually produced a running machine. Saturday we pushed it out of the garage (just in case), I pushed in the clutch switch and turned the ignition...It turn over but nothing. Disappointment.


After some troubleshooting I noticed the inertia switch was off, pushed down on the top to re-engage it and tried again. This time I heard the fuel pump kick on as it should, turned the switch to start, it turned over, fired, then quickly died. Disappointment.

Back to troubleshooting...since it would fire but die I narrowed it down to things involved in the ‘run’ phase such as the ignition switch (check), coyote power wires (check), and sensors (bingo). I inadvertently installed the MAF backwards in the air intake.

Third times the charm...


https://youtu.be/xmluO1kKt08

Success!

One thing you may notice I forgot to put on the punch list was final hook up of the radiator fan. This is now complete and happy to say it comes on as expected but it is pretty loud.

Please excuse the occasional finger in the way. : )

[Fixit]

Woo Hoo!!
Another one lives!!

[wareaglescott]

nice work. congrats.

[Joel Hauser]

That looks and sounds great. congratulations. Are those "stock" FF pipes? they sound great.

[Straversi]

Congratulations! Such a great moment.
-Steve

[Cruzzz]

That looks and sounds great. congratulations. Are those "stock" FF pipes? they sound great.

Hi Joel - They are polished stainless pipes from GAS-N. The headers are also from GAS-N. I had the opportunity to listen to a few brands at the London Cobra show and these had the best sound and also slightly softer since the tip is turned down.

[GoDadGo]

Just before it started it didn't it feel like this?

https://youtu.be/xMxsLKQidY4?list=RD0VkrUG3OrPc

Congratulations From The Dark Dart Side!

[Cruzzz]

Just before it started it didn't it feel like this?

https://youtu.be/xMxsLKQidY4?list=RD0VkrUG3OrPc

Congratulations From The Dark Dart Side!

Indeed! and when it did start I knew I had created a monster. : )

[PeteMeindl]

Awesome!!! Go Cruzzz! Congratulations - that feels great!

[Cruzzz]

Thanks for all the congrats! This is getting exciting now that it is running. After running at temp a few times over the course of a week, and no leaks, I did a quick alignment and went around the driveway for the first go cart. I live on a busy street so it will just be laps around the driveway until registration.


https://youtu.be/Zq5eVZeYiIQ

[Cruzzz]

The last week has been spent working through all the light connections and confirming the Russ Thompson system is wired up correctly. I used Weather Pack connectors and converted everything over to LEDs. This is highly recommended for safety reasons as the originally incandescents aren’t very bright. The Weather Packs take some time but make for a nice weather tight connection and keeps it clean. One challenge I ran into was getting a couple of the turn signal wires mixed up which caused some peculiar functionality. I was worried something was off with the RT wiring but just needed to flip a couple wires. Here is a quick walk around.


https://youtu.be/eyaDtqOWfMw

Next week will focus on insulation and start carpeting and other interior tasks. Getting very close to putting the body back on so we flipped it over to prep with undercoating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115181&d=1569810539

[tt400]

First go cart was a great day for me.

[Gizmosrcool]

Congratulations on the start and gocart. Really good stuff.

[Cruzzz]

Temps are now in the 20s and we have a few inches of snow on the ground but a couple weeks ago I took the opportunity to undercoat the body with Herculiner. The idea is to add some cushion so any rocks that are kicked up are less likely to cause damage to the body or paint. First step was to tape off all the edges and openings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116777&d=1572229784

Then applied two coats of Herculiner over the coarse of a couple days allowing the first coat to fully dry first. Make sure you stir well and get all the material in the bottom of the paint can mixed/ suspended in the paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116778&d=1572229809

[Cruzzz]

The complete kit comes with precut carpet for the driver/passenger areas and to my surprise a precut piece for the trunk. This makes the installation very easy. I used a combination of 3M 90 spray glue and the upholstery glue used previously on the dash. The upholstery glue brushed on around edges for extra hold. All carpet except the floors were installed first.

I’m also using the Breeze seat bases for the incline and resulting extra leg room (6’1”). The bottom plate for the seat bases were riveted to the floor on top of the Coolmat insulation, then the floor carpet was installed over the base plates. A small cut was made so the for post bolts stuck through to bold down the top plate over the carpet. Will never be seen but this creates a very clean look.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117610&d=1573794704

I also carpet the trunk but unfortunately couldn’t use the provided precut trunk carpet since it is configured for a no frill, standard trunk layout. I’m using the drop trunk and added upper trunk side panels to finish it off. I will say the trunk carpeting is a bear. There are lots of different angles, edges, and obstacles throughout. Highly recommend buying some craft paper and spend quality time making patterns. You will end up with a much nicer end product and save some frustration knowing the carpet will fit exactly as it should. I was able to install the whole trunk using 2.5 yards of carpet. I ended up with 5 sections with the goal of not having seams where there were corner transitions from lower to upper sections for the trunk. These seem to have the heaviest wear and most prone to coming loose.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117613&d=1573794756

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117614&d=1573794784

The interior is almost all black and I was look for some ways to bring in an accent color. The first step was swapping out the black Simpson seat belts for red Cipher 5pt harnesses. I was also very interested in having the Cam Lock functionality.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117612&d=1573794735

The Cipher seatbelts come with eyelet bolt anchors for each section of the harness. These bolt right up to the FFR mounts. You can see the lap belt eyelets and the submarine belt eyelet in the first picture. The harness itself has quick release clips on each end that fasten on these eyelets. Before mounting the seat belts I applied a few liberal coats of Scotchguard water and UV protectant to hopefully reduce the chance of fading.

[Cruzzz]

With the carpet and seat bases in I bolted in the Kirkey Lowback seats. I previously test fit the seats and predrilled the base mount bolt holes in the seat bottoms. I had also been working on the transmission tunnel cover filling in the gear shift hole and adding holes for two cup holders. The cover was then sent off to the upholsterer to work their magic with the remaining leather hide I had left from the dash. As mentioned earlier I was looking for ways to add some accents to the interior and decided to leverage red stitching for the gear shifter boot and the transmission tunnel. Also fastened the cover down using 6” strips of commercial grade 3M Velcro. It is very solid yet removable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=116776&d=1572229759

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117604&d=1573794632

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117606&d=1573794648

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117607&d=1573794667

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=117608&d=1573794684

[Cruzzz]

Add a Metco drive shaft safety hoop to the many customizations that I believe, for the minimal incremental cost, are great insurance for your safety. The Metco hoop is reasonably priced compared to other options, well engineered, and easy to bolt on. Only minor customization was adding four grade 8 nuts to act as spacers raising the hoop a little higher above the drive shaft to make sure there was adequate clearance and four 1/2” longer bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118309&d=1575169587

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118310&d=15751

[Cruzzz]

Wrapped up a list of punch list items before putting the body back on:

-Double checked and fastened down any loose wires
-Removed the side pipes, front elephant ears/guards, and steering wheel
-Put a couple inches of painters tape on the top dash edge to protect leather
-Closed off defrost vent holes on heater with two layers of foil duct tape (won’t be installing defrost vents)

And finally added the various foam pieces that seal everything up with the body on. Although most of this is described in the manual and in various posts, I didn’t find many pictures showing where everything goes. Hope this helps others (or if anyone sees something out of place let me know :cool:).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118307&d=1575169537

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118306&d=1575169500

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118305&d=1575169469

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118304&d=1575169448

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118303&d=1575169428

[Cruzzz]

The stars aligned and I finished up my punch list of items that needed completed before putting the body back on over Thanksgiving. I was also fortunate to have relatives in town to offer a few extra hands (does make it much easier!). It has been just over 9 months since I took delivery of my kit and the last time the body was on the frame. Today we got it back on during half time of the Ohio State/Michigan game. It is just sitting on the foam for now. I’ll start into getting everything lined up next week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118302&d=1575169398

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118301&d=1575169

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118300&d=1575169337

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118299&d=1575169321

[Fixit]

:cool: Coming together...

[GoDadGo]

Fantastic Job!

[Robodent]

Looks great awesome job !!!! I’m not to far away from you here in Illinois almost finished with my truck build. maybe some day our paths will cross at a cruise nite or car show. Rob

[Cruzzz]

Been MIA for a while but have got a lot done....

Trimmed and mounted the hood. May add some bushings to cleanup the area when the hood levers come through the hood. The gas struts and hinges work very well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121493&d=1580187734

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121492&d=1580187714

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121495&d=1580187773

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121489&d=1580187664

[Cruzzz]

Next worked on the front overriders, headlights and turn signals.

Overriders - Opened up the predrilled holes to accept ********** grommets and 3/4” stainless tubes to finish it off nicely. Cut the tubes to length and polished using metal polish and pads on my Dremmel. Overriders bolted on using FFR supplied bolts and washers.

Lights - Headlight and turn signal wiring was run before the body was put on including Weatherpack connectors. I used different connector ends (male vs female) on each frame side connector so each light only could plug into one of the connections. I did this because I new everything worked perfectly during setup and this made sure all went in the same place. I also marked the back side of the turn signals and brake lights with passenger/driver and turn vs brake ( for rear).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121488&d=1580187649

[Cruzzz]

Windshield - Admittedly was dreading this part with the recent flurry of broken windshield posts. All in all straight forward but take your time. First I test fit the side frames several times and made incremental bends to get them flush with the windshield frame. Once all lined up took them off one last time, cut the bottom of the posts off to 13” as others have recommended. Remounted the posts and attempted sliding the posts in the precut post holes in the body but they needed opened up slightly. Few more trial and error moments and they slid in. Marked the hole locations, drilled and tapped holes to accept threading the bolts into the posts. This came highly recommended and when all done I agree. Just do it! : ). With holes tapped slid windshield back into place and used several washers to shim any natural gaps between the frame mounts and posts then tightened down with supplied bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121491&d=1580187700

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121494&d=1580187758

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121490&d=1580187681

[Cruzzz]

I mostly worked from front to back lining up the body on the frame and finishing other tasks. This process is described well by The Jeff’s in several body alignment threads.

Next up we’re the doors. I didn’t take any pictures of the process but the passenger side generally fell into place without much coaxing. The drivers side on the other hand...take your time and step away when needed. Key takeaways include pushing body in as far as possible by leading edge of the door, pull body out 1”+ at rear of door, angle top front of door out, get it close and let the professionals make it look great. : )

[Cruzzz]

Filler neck - Cut the hose connection to correct length and fastened to gas cap and filler tube with provided hose clamps. Also installed the static ground as required. Make sure you clear any paint on the body mount.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121496&d=1580187806

Before installing the Lemans gas cap spent some time polishing using my Dremmel. To install used stainless machine screws, washers, lock washers, and nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121497&d=1580187823

[Railroad]

I had my ground in the same place,,,just moved it to the diagonal 3/4 inch tube toward the rear,,, in the way of mounting the rear elephant ears.

[Cruzzz]

Railroad - Thanks for the heads up! Thankfully it is an easy move at this point. This is also why I like having a build thread and posting lots of pictures for others to check for issues.

[Cruzzz]

Next enlarged the louver openings as others have done to line the opening angles up with those of the actual louver. I was doing really well to this point in the build in not 'messing' anything up but I miss cut the passenger side opening. Very frustrating moment. Had to step away from for a day then used the HSRF I had on hand to fill the opening back in some and re-size it. I also just happened to connect with Jeff Kleiner the following day and confessed my sins although he assured me it wasn't a big deal. (I think he was being nice but I'm sure it will cause more body work) : (

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121507&d=1580188302

[Cruzzz]

Roll bars: The MKIV uses the 1.5" rollbars but after looking at quite a few during the London Cobra Show last year I came away wanting the beefier 2" versions used on the MKIII. Once back home I sold the 1.5" driver and passenger roll bars I had and order as set of 2" from FFR. One issue was the stubs on the frame are made to seat the smaller bars and the larger ones may move around. Mike Everson was generous enough to machine a couple bushings that slide over the stubs bringing the to 2". A little work opening up the pre-cut holes in the body and the roll bars were in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121505&d=1580188238

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121508&d=1580188323

[Cruzzz]

You probably already noticed in the pictures above, but I also finished up the trunk lid, tail lights, trunk latch, license plate holder, and reverse light. Not to much to add on those. The reverse light idea originated from Fixit's build, positioned the license plate holder as high as possible while lining up with the molded part of the body, and used the Kleiner mod to attach the overriders.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121499&d=1580187849

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121498&d=1580187836

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121501&d=1580188159

[Cruzzz]

This past weekend also installed the wind wings and Terry's mirrors. The mirrors were another decision made while attending the London Cobra Show. They are well made, look and function great with the wind wings, and greatly improve visibility compared to the stock mirror(s).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121502&d=1580188177

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121503&d=1580188199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121504&d=1580188221

[Cruzzz]

And with that...I have everything completed to send in my application for title and registration!!!

Four photos and all the required paperwork. Now wait.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121508&d=1580188323

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121509&d=1580188348

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121510&d=1580188370

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121511&d=1580188390

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121512&d=1580188422

[TMartinLVNV]

Wow! Fantastic work Chris. Looks beautiful.

[Cruzzz]

Hope everyone is safe and healthy! I finished the pre bodywork/paint part of my MKIV build in early February after 12 months, sent in paperwork to get my title and registration, and successfully passed the inspection and received my title as everything went into lock down here in Illinois. Exciting news...the Secretary of State opened back up last week and I finally got my registration and plates yesterday. Needless to say I went for a celebratory cruise today and passed 500 miles (~400 pre-registration miles :cool:) on the odometer along the way.

Everything is running great! Going to enjoy driving it in gelcoat until my number is up in the paint booth.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129965&d=1592174001

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129966&d=1592174017