#1001

[fostia]

I haven't posted on this forum. Just the other one. Getting closer to the go cart stage. Currently working on the fuel system and wiring routing.

I attached the upper radiator hose. I'm not sure if I got the corrugated radiator tubing for enough in the adapter. I pushed and rotated it as far as I could go. I bought some T-bolt clamps and gates power grip clamps. I figure I may use both. I don't want the hoses blowing off during the go cart phase

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[fostia]

Since I put my brake lines on the back frame rail I had to make a bracket to put it on the rear sheet metal side. The filter is now easily accessible from the battery access panel. But since that was there now and I hated the battery location, I built a battery box for my trunk. I just need to make sure I coat the inside with a non-conductive coating. I added a breeze AN6 return bulkhead fitting and drilled an extra hole in my tank. The o-rings were a bit hokey so hopefully it will seal. Trying to figure out my battery and rear harness wiring. I think I'm going to run it up the middle on the passenger side. Maybe put some clickbond zip tie fasteners on the side of my transmission. I want to run the power to a 4 lug terminal bus on my inner firewall and have both the battery power and rear harness come up through the tunnel. Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?

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[RoadRacer]

Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?


I bought some longer battery cable so I can have cutoff switch between seats (security only, not racing) and remote jumper posts in trunk - and then ran them up the chassis next to transmission. Seems better that way so they're tidier, more rigidly mounted and out of the way when you're pulling your transmission. Will still be inside your tunnel of course

[Svtfreak]

Looking good. You're my sister car!

[HVACMAN]

Since I put my brake lines on the back frame rail I had to make a bracket to put it on the rear sheet metal side. The filter is now easily accessible from the battery access panel. But since that was there now and I hated the battery location, I built a battery box for my trunk. I just need to make sure I coat the inside with a non-conductive coating. I added a breeze AN6 return bulkhead fitting and drilled an extra hole in my tank. The o-rings were a bit hokey so hopefully it will seal. Trying to figure out my battery and rear harness wiring. I think I'm going to run it up the middle on the passenger side. Maybe put some clickbond zip tie fasteners on the side of my transmission. I want to run the power to a 4 lug terminal bus on my inner firewall and have both the battery power and rear harness come up through the tunnel. Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?

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I am running mine between the tunnel and console. I kept having recurring nightmares about all that wiring in very close proximity to a driveshaft turning 6,000 RPM's. lol

[fostia]

I'm having my first kid in June so I've tried to step up my progress a notch during Christmas break. It seems for every hurdle overcome, another appears. Still have not figured out my steering limiter situation. I put one nylon stop on the driver's side which worked perfectly, tire does not bump the a-arm. I put one, then two, then 3 on the passenger side and they all disappear under the lip of rack. I'm not sure if they are the right diameter... I think they are supposed to bottom out before they disappear and may not be the right diameter. I'm worried that they will get chewed up inside and then i'll have FODed my steering rack. Anyone with insight with where the limiters are supposed to hit on the passenger side would be greatly appreciated.

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I've created a battery box for the trunk testing out my cheapo harbor freight brake press. May not be the smartest thing to make my box out of metal but I painted the inside with POR15 and added some insulating material near where I would be wrenching. I may put some more insulating material in there just to be sure....

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[fostia]

Following the battery box installation I finished my fuel system. A mechanical pump would have been the easiest thing to do but I thought maybe I'd like to go EFI someday so I tried to make my system flexible. I capped off the return line on the tank, drilled a hole and added an AN6 return line bulkhead fitting that drops into the tank (ordered from Breeze Automotive), Holley Blue Fuel Pump, a prepump filter and post pump filter (i think 100 micron in and 40 micron out) which runs to an Aeromotive pressure regulator into Holley carb. Fuel lines are thermal wrapped near the exhaust exit. I used click bond fasteners on the fuel tank to secure the lines. I put in a bulkhead fitting near the firewall to easily disconnect the lines in the engine bay (unnecessary extra leak point) As with everything I'm doing, this is my first fuel system so hopefully it doesn't leak and that there is enough space between the fuel tank, lines and back fiberglass waterfall piece. I'm worried about using the stock tank but I'm spent so much money so far I just can't buy another item. So we'll see how it works.

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[fostia]

Built a bracket to hold my power steering module and clutch fluid reservoir. Going to try to bleed my clutch today. I bought a hydraulic clutch from Forte because my power brake kit from Whitby interfered with the cable clutch. My goal is to have both of these items easily accessible from the access panel in the fiberglass above it. There is some worry about the PS module overheating in this location but I'm going to go for it. I've seen others put it up there.

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[fostia]

Drilled all the holes in the sheet metal and have started work on the center fiberglass tunnel. I guess I was in too much of a hurry and was significantly off on about 10 holes in the drivers side sheetmetal floor. I'm going to plug them with some JB weld steel stick. Nothing fits precisely... or i don't have the patience to make it perfect. There will be a bit of seam sealer used eventually. Especially on the firewall. I forgot to use silicone when installing it and the metal piece under my fuel tank. I'm not removing either so we'll see how that goes. Thankfully I live in southern california where rain is rare.

Another area that's a little hokey is the shifter bezel. My TKO600 shifter is slightly off center so that only 3 of the 4 holes in the shifter bezel lie flat. Not sure how to get the other one fastened yet. Maybe some fiberglass work? Anyone else experience this?

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That's all for now for my mass upload.

[fostia]

I've got a hydraulic clutch now! My trans tunnel came pretty close to the clutch bracket so I had to cut it in half. Hopefully I don't have any issues with any of this. THe only thing I'm finding is that the clutch cable may be slightly in the way of the throttle cables (not sure yet, still trying to figure that out)... It's all a bit close the the trans tunnel but it should be about the .5" in factory five recommends.

Now the damn accelerator pedal, e-brake cable and final electrical. Then I should be ready for my first start!

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[Svtfreak]

You clicking right on along!

[1932]

Nice and neat, looks like good work!

[fostia]

First start today! Fired right up. Ran it at 2500 RPM for 15 minutes then set the timing. Aside for needing to tighten a couple connections, everything appears good. Bought the shortblock for coast high performance but built the entire rest of the engine. First engine for me. Felt good.

Got a little more ballsy and took it down the street. Lost a taillight as it was just lightly clamped on the back. Guess that's not bad of a casualty. The front brake pistons ended up not retracting so I never got it out of first gear and I had significant braking resistance the entire ride. Not sure what's going on. Some of the guys though the master cylinder might be sticking. Slightly bled the front brake and backed it back into the garage. Put it up on jack stands. Brakes didn't stick anymore. Not sure what's going on here. Thoughts? I have Whitby Power brakes....

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[JEMAN]

I will be following to see your conclusion on the front brakes sticking. I too have the Whitby brakes and the front stuck when I took it out. Still haven't found out why. But I have not taken it out again since. I was reading about maybe having to adjust the small screw plunger on the inside. Will let you know though for sure if I find the solution. Might try to get out and look at it this week. Been busy. 2 yr old boy will zap your wrench time lol

[fostia]

I will be following to see your conclusion on the front brakes sticking. I too have the Whitby brakes and the front stuck when I took it out. Still haven't found out why. But I have not taken it out again since. I was reading about maybe having to adjust the small screw plunger on the inside. Will let you know though for sure if I find the solution. Might try to get out and look at it this week. Been busy. 2 yr old boy will zap your wrench time lol

Definitely will post the resolution to the brake issue. I have a boy coming in June so I'm trying to get as much done before that as possible. Big goal was this first start milestone to at least get the engine lubed up!

[fostia]

Some more trouble shooting today. Seems it was not just my front brakes locking up, my rears as well. I took the master cylinder off and definitely discovered that the pushrod was too long. I adjusted the pushrod all the way in (which seemed to just barely seem okay) and then rebled the brakes. Seemed to work, MOSTLY. After driving it around the block a couple times, with really hard braking, the rears seemed to stick a little bit (and made some noise). I backed it back into my garage and turned off the engine. Tried pushing it back and forth and it seemed fine. I think I may slot some washers and move out he master cylinder just a little bit further and see what that does. I imagine it'll make them too squishy but there could still be some restriction on that pushrod.

Found other problems too. My car comes close to stalling on aggressive braking. A quick google seems that it's almost 100% carb related. My fuel tank is really low on fuel to but I don't think it'd cause the RPM to drop down so significantly that fast. It takes a while to drain those bowls.

And i seem to have a small oil leak between the intake manifold and the block at the rear of my car. I must not have put enough RTV. Those with 302 engines probably know where I'm talking about.

But progress was made, if only incremental!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139218&d=1607826976

[fostia]

Haven't done a post in a while. I'm currently working on the hardtop and have a question.

Window trim - Does everyone trim the window opening to just inside the blacked out part of the glass? See below.

Also, does anyone have the power window install drawings (PDFs) that Tim Collins made? I PM'd him on the other site but it appears he hasn't logged on in quite some time.
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[sethmark]

Nice work. Car looks great.

[JOP33]

Haven't done a post in a while. I'm currently working on the hardtop and have a question.

Window trim - Does everyone trim the window opening to just inside the blacked out part of the glass? See below.

Also, does anyone have the power window install drawings (PDFs) that Tim Collins made? I PM'd him on the other site but it appears he hasn't logged on in quite some time.
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Several builders had suggested to me at this process to seal or paint the lips black instead of the color of the car, so that when the sealant is applied you won't be able to see the color through the sealant.

[HVACMAN]

Haven't done a post in a while. I'm currently working on the hardtop and have a question.

Window trim - Does everyone trim the window opening to just inside the blacked out part of the glass? See below.

Also, does anyone have the power window install drawings (PDFs) that Tim Collins made? I PM'd him on the other site but it appears he hasn't logged on in quite some time.
120109

PM me with your email address and I will send them to you.

[fostia]

PM me with your email address and I will send them to you.

Thanks. Someone provided them from the other forum. I've been warned that I should rethink whether I want to do the power windows... Anyone have feedback on how they look/like them? I live in SoCal so ever seeing rain is not very likely.

[fostia]

Thank you. Did you trim the fiberglass window openings or keep them as cut by factory five?

[1932]

I trimmed all the windows.

[fostia]

So finding time to work on the hot rod and having a 7 month old are not conducive yet I was able to sneak in some hours this weekend. I am trying to get the hardtop roughed in so I can put the glass in and drive it around unfinished for a while. I have filled in the bottom gap, ground down the seams, rough sanded the edges, drilled the pinholes on the seam and filled in with 3M HSRF. Going to leave it be for a couple weeks, come back and sand it down and then start the Rage work. Hopefully I'm doing it all right. Incremental steps and someday this will be done!

Oh, and apparently I don't know how to install rivnuts. For the second time in two years I've crunched my ring finger pretty badly by not engaging enough threads in the tool and having it "let go" while compressing the rivnut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139216&d=1607826976

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[TxMike64]

So finding time to work on the hot rod and having a 7 month old are not conducive...

HaHa!!! At this age finding the time is easy! Wait another year and you'll have NO time!

I have a 4yo and a 7yo.... All their waking time is their time, then time with Mama, then Daddy gets a couple hours at night!

[fostia]

Fitting up my hardtop windshield right now. It's not the best fit in my hardtop. When the window glass is installed, does the adhesive generally fill the uneveness or do I need to do build this up?

[1932]

My first window was to flat( i broke it, yes more money )the second was better and we fit it with only the glass urethane. Worked good.

[fostia]

Had the glass installed on my hardtop, installed a new shift knob (valhalla!) and scheduled a dyno tune. See you all at Huntington Beach!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139211&d=1607826976

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139209&d=1607826965

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139210&d=1607826976



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[fostia]

Dyno pulls.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uWWfBroz2PMVqu3n6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/f9T8dYbt5Gnpph7S8

Since I bought the short block assembled but spec'd and built everything else myself, this really gives me confidence to know that the carb is dialed in correctly and she's okay to drive. Still have hesitation on hard throttle, going back on Friday to have the carb guy adjust my accelerator pump. 262 miles on the odometer now. Not enough!

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[fostia]

Been working on my doors a little more. I hate the little pin-knobs that come with the kit. They are just another death trap feature on my car right now along with the absence of a roll bar, no neck support and an e-brake I can't reach when I use the four point harness. I used a bunch of motorcycle throttle cable parts from Venhill. You can order a full kit or individual throttle cable parts like barrel adjusters and clevises, parts that I was having trouble sourcing anywhere else. I've got extra from when I try to do my outer door handle. Still not sure how to rig up a double clevis in that small of a space. I'm sure I'll figure out something.

It ain't pretty but it works.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139206&d=1607826965

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139205&d=1607826965

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[fostia]

I really hate these doors. They continue to be a big challenge for me and I havent even done the power windows. Another midnight night going to bed with fiberglass all in my hands and forearms.

[JimLev]

Fostia, did those inside door handles come with your kit? I didn't get them.

[fostia]

Fostia, did those inside door handles come with your kit? I didn't get them.

No, the little cheap little 5 dollar pins came with the kit that you install at the latch. I also received exterior turn handles that I'm not going to use.

The ones in my picture I bought these off e-bay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AutoLoc-Door-Handle-Swish-Lever-Kit-Pair-AutoLoc-AUTBZDH3K-street-muscle-rat/123810623625?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I used my friend's plasma cutter to cut a hole in a steel square for each one then welded up a stop for the cable end. The plasma cutter barely made it through the stock (it's by no means a quality machine) and my welds leave something to be desired. But it's all behind the door panel so I'm not too worried about it.

[JimLev]

Thanks for the info fostia. The pins attached to the bear claw locks are pretty chincy.
I've got the same opinion of the doors. Can't wait (lol) to start the power windows.

[TxMike64]

... little pin-knobs ... just another death trap feature ... along with the absence of a roll bar, no neck support and an e-brake I can't reach when I use the four point harness...

Well, you are building a hot rod... Death trap is implied. But, the worst idea they ever did with this kit is to send it with 4-point harnesses.


...I also received exterior turn handles that I'm not going to use.

Did you order the hard top, is that why you got the outside handles?


... I used my friend's plasma cutter to cut a hole in a steel square for each one then welded up a stop for the cable end. The plasma cutter barely made it through the stock (it's by no means a quality machine) and my welds leave something to be desired. But it's all behind the door panel so I'm not too worried about it.

Looks like a pretty good job, given the tools used!

[fostia]

I have set up my harbor freight paint booth, built an air dryer manifold and shot the underside of the hot top with Southern Polyurethane Epoxy Primer. I borrowed a friends compressor and daisy-chained it with my small one to boost my CFM since I'm not rolling with the big boys yet with a 2 stage (it's on the tool list!). My goal is just to get some body work done, get it primed and then hold off until either I get enough $ for a real paint job or get the motivation to do it myself. Although I worry about the fumes angering the neighbors. The Southern Polyeurethane has UV inhibitors in it so I should be able to drive it around like this for a while. After this is done, it will be time to start tackling the body.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139199&d=1607826965

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[fostia]

Did a father's day cruise with the wife today. My sister was kind enough to watch the kid. Nice to get out and about. Also finally got both my submarine belts properly through the seats. That's been on my to do list since before my kid was born! (BTW, that's not a handicap spot... it was but not anymore)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139195&d=1607826965

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[JOP33]

Nice job, looks great...and I love the HF Paint Booth!

[fostia]

Going backwards to go forwards. Took out my seats, rear waterfall and door trim covers. Fiddled around a bit with the door handles and then spent the next couple days aligning to doors. I used the spacer trick in the front to "twist" the doors and amazingly I have them pretty close to where I'm happy with them. I have moved on to the trunk which has been frustrating the hell out of me. I tried to bend a 5/8 square steel bar to the trunk curve and attached it via rivnuts but that didn't work out too well. I'm going to go with Tim Whittaker's trunk bars as others have done on this forum and notch the "X" and then bond everything in. Spending a little more here than I'd like but oh well. It will be nice when the car is semi-done as I won't keep dumping all my $ into it. It also appears my gas tank is leaking. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get a Boyd tank. So there goes even more $$.

So, while waiting for the trunk hardware to come from Kootenai, I am diving into another task I've been putting off forever and that's my exterior door handles. I may have just committed myself to not going with the power windows as I'm not sure I'll have room for both. I have the kit but have been on the fence anyways based on what other people have said about them. Plus I live in SoCal and what is rain anyways?

So I have one exterior door handle mocked up. I'll need to press it in with some filler with wax paper over the handle to get it nice and flush. I didn't quite do it on the first pass. But it can be done! Took a lot of fine sanding to get the opening just right..... I've been mulling over the best way to install these for a while. Thinking this will work out well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139174&d=1607826955

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139173&d=1607826955

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139173&d=1607826955

[fostia]

Ordered two roll bar hoops today. That will be my next project after the exterior door handles. Speaking of which, worked on the exterior passenger door some more tonight. Bonded in a stop for the cable sheath and got both cables hooked up to the same clevis at the bear claw latch. After a bit of tweaking they both work fantastic. I'm hoping I have enough room for the power window glass but I think I might be SOL. Took 6 hours to just do that one handle.. kid goes to bed around 7 then I get to devote 3 hours to the car each night. Seems like I never see my wife anymore. Going camping this weekend in the Big Sur. Driver's side will have to wait until next week. Hopefully it comes out equally as good.

[fostia]

First source for dual hoop roll bars fell through. Second source came through. Worked out for the best as these cost 1/4 what I was going to pay for the first set even though they are a slightly smaller diameter. Mocked it up a bit. Going to add a bunch of more bracing into the section that that bars slip into. Again, I know these give a false sense of security without the 3rd leg but at minimum I can attach a head rest to the back in case I get rear ended.

Also cut out and bonded the driver side door handle in. Still need to bond in the cable pull end.

Oh yeah, I finally sucked it up and ordered a Boyd tank. I couldn't quite pull the trigger earlier as I was hemorrhaging money on the engine and fuel system. I'm still hemorrhaging money, just not as bad. And my FFR tank was leaking somewhere at the top. So that provided the excuse. Someone put it nicely in another thread. Kit car logic: Spend $400 when a 25 cent seal could probably solve the problem. Really, it costs more than $400 as I also bought the $65 0-90 ohm fuel gauge that's needed with it too. And also looking into a new $40 fill tube. And we'll see if my braided lines are long enough to reach the new pick up and return. Never ending. But I think it's worth it since now I can get to the tank without pulling the body off. Either way, it's done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139171&d=1607826955

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[JOP33]

Nice set-up on the bars...also really like the door handles!

[Tampa33Build]

Door handles are impressive, ingenuity and creative thinking is what make everyone's build unique.

[fostia]

Took everything off the car today and removed the body. I was hoping to wait a while to do this but I needed to pull the old tank so I could put in the Boyd tank to ensure everything fit. I tried to hold out as long as I could but finally bit the bullet with the Boyd. I agree with everyone else that this is the tank that SHOULD come with the kit. Just the fact that you can remove it from the front is going to be a tremendous help. And the welded in bungs are just fantastic. I don't foresee any leaks from this unlike the FF5 tank. Hopefully I'll smell less gas now.

The only bummer so far is that the trim on the new fuel gauge that I bought is more shiny than the other gauge trim. It's going to bug the crap out of me. Oh well, another thing on the phase II list.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139161&d=1607826940

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[j33ptj]

What is the total clearance height for the tanks?

just curious for an idea I am playing with....

Robert

[fostia]

I'll try to take a pic the next time I put it in. Clearance is not bad. I put two 90 degree AN6 fittings in the bungs and needed to cut away a bit of the body flange to get it in and out. But thats hidden behind the waterfall so no biggy.

[j33ptj]

What is the distance between the frame where the tank sits in between?

Thanks
Robert

[fostia]

Performing surgery on the waterfall. It never fit quite right and my roll bar base just made it worse. Still a bunch of fiberglassing and sanding to do. Not quite sure how to get where it hugs the top of body between the door finished to my liking. Going to require some thought.... This is my first foray into fiberglass layups so we will see how it ends up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139157&d=1607826940

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[JOP33]

With regards to "where it hugs the top of body between the door", might I suggest trimming it back flush with the door hinge pillar. That's what we did and it actually turned out really nice. I do wish I would have carried the rocker guard when I sprayed it onto the pillar, but I may actually extend it this winter. It also trims out nice, especially with any kind of vinyl covering. Just a suggestion.

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[RoadRacer]

> might I suggest trimming it back flush with the door hinge pillar

Which is exactly what the Gen2 waterfall looks like now..

[fostia]

As of this minute, I was supposed to be on a flight to Oslo Norway for a 2 and a half week Norwegian extravaganza. Stupid covid.

Anyways, thanks for the suggestions on the waterfall but I'm too stubborn to quit. I prefer subjecting myself to the ancient form of torture called fiberglass work. I don't know how guys like Jeff Miller do this over and over again. I think after this, I'm one and out on this. Not to mention San Diego has been an oven the past week and a half. Ugh.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139154&d=1607826940

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[fostia]

Finally. Roll bar hoops installed in waterfall. 4 weeks later than I thought. After I welded up the holder I though I would just install the waterfall, cut the holes and be done. But the cross bars I welded in were too far forward. My waterfall always fit like crap so once the rollbars didn't fit I took the opportunity to start hacking up the waterfall so everything fit just right without forcing it into place and large gaps. i'm quite pleased with the end result.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139150&d=1607826940

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[j33ptj]

You weren't able to use the FFR rollbar mount tube? I assume that it would have the wrong location for the dual bars?

Thnx
Robert

[progmgr1]

You weren't able to use the FFR rollbar mount tube? I assume that it would have the wrong location for the dual bars?

Thnx
Robert

Yup, the single roll bar support tubes are too far apart - using them would pull the dual roll hoops several inches off center relative to the seat backs. Look at fostia's #3 photo in the post above and you can see the problem. HTH, Keith HR #894 (also installing dual roll hoops, but not that far along)

[fostia]

What is the distance between the frame where the tank sits in between?

Thanks
Robert

I didn't forget about you. Here's a bunch of pictures of the Boyd tank and clearances. If you need specific dimensions I can do it sometime in the future. I wasn't quite sure what dimension you were referring to.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/kazBXTbbT9wE8eyTA

[1932]

Would be even better if you had a top brace.

[j33ptj]

I didn't forget about you. Here's a bunch of pictures of the Boyd tank and clearances. If you need specific dimensions I can do it sometime in the future. I wasn't quite sure what dimension you were referring to.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/kazBXTbbT9wE8eyTA

Thanks! I would like to know how high and wide the available space is for a gas tank. I am thinking of using a Mooneys round tank, but wonder if there is enough space to put one in... Idea is to have it on disppay from the back of the 33 when the boot is open.

But from your picture I can calculate that the tank is 9.5" high + a bit of space for the valves etc. Thanks! Boyd website showed the tank as 40x9.5x10 but did not say what the height was.

Thanks for your help
Robert

[Dodgeman]

Thanks! I would like to know how high and wide the available space is for a gas tank. I am thinking of using a Mooneys round tank, but wonder if there is enough space to put one in... Idea is to have it on disppay from the back of the 33 when the boot is open.

But from your picture I can calculate that the tank is 9.5" high + a bit of space for the valves etc. Thanks! Boyd website showed the tank as 40x9.5x10 but did not say what the height was.

Thanks for your help
Robert

The Boyd tank is 40" long x 9.5" wide by 10" high, tank for my 33 measures 4.250" long by 9.625" wide and 10.125" high.
Bob

[j33ptj]

The Boyd tank is 40" long x 9.5" wide by 10" high, tank for my 33 measures 4.250" long by 9.625" wide and 10.125" high.
Bob

Thanks!! that helps to see what fits!

Robert

[fostia]

Bonding in the Kootenai Valley Customs trunk bars. Hoping hoping that this will make the trunk form in correctly. Also, finally found a use for my weights. I certainly haven't been using them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139146&d=1607826929

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139145&d=1607826929

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[FF33rod]

Happy to see the last pic where you set the trunk on to the body. As I believe Tim mentions in his instructions, the curvature of the bars (or the bonding of them tot he trunk) may need adjusting since every body seems a little different.
This, along with his reinforcing bar on the body just below the trunk latch, are the two biggest improvements one can make to the build IMO. Really stiffens things up. Oh, plus the "trunk deck panel adjuster"...

Steve

[fostia]

Argarghgghhghf

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139140&d=1607826929

[fostia]

So I think I know what I'm going to do with the trunk. I did a janky HD mockup and it seems to work. I've ordered some proper heim joints and black linkage. It will still look a bit rough but i'll take it to be able to adjust the bend. Need to install the real bulb seal but apparently I didn't get it with my kit. I received two firewall seals instead and didn't measure out the 12 feet of side bulb seal. Either that or I hid it on myself. Due to covid, can only e-mail FF5 so haven't heard back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139142&d=1607826929

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139141&d=1607826929

[j33ptj]

So is that tension bar going to be there permanently then?

this would be a useful tool to get the shape right and than glass in the re-informents on the side I suppose?

Robert

[33fromSD]

So I think I know what I'm going to do with the trunk. I did a janky HD mockup and it seems to work. I've ordered some proper heim joints and black linkage. It will still look a bit rough but i'll take it to be able to adjust the bend. Need to install the real bulb seal but apparently I didn't get it with my kit. I received two firewall seals instead and didn't measure out the 12 feet of side bulb seal. Either that or I hid it on myself. Due to covid, can only e-mail FF5 so haven't heard back.

134694

134696

Reminds me of the strut adjustment rods on the inside of my 55 Ford F100 hood used to adjust the hood fitment. Clever idea fostia!!

[fostia]

So is that tension bar going to be there permanently then?

this would be a useful tool to get the shape right and than glass in the re-informents on the side I suppose?

Robert

Not sure. I was thinking like you about just using it to get position and then reglassing the x brace but I'm also over the trunk. The tension bar components I bought shouldn't look bad so maybe permanent? Jury is out right now.

[33fromSD]

Not sure. I was thinking like you about just using it to get position and then reglassing the x brace but I'm also over the trunk. The tension bar components I bought shouldn't look bad so maybe permanent? Jury is out right now.

going to be hot by you this long weekend, you could try taking it off the car with the rods still on it and set it in the Sun to see if the glass relearns it's position. Long shot, but one never knows.

[j33ptj]

Not sure. I was thinking like you about just using it to get position and then reglassing the x brace but I'm also over the trunk. The tension bar components I bought shouldn't look bad so maybe permanent? Jury is out right now.

Maybe nicely chromed or powdercoated in line with the "theme" of the car it might work as a permanent fixture too... kinda "steam punk?"

[fostia]

I think I dislike the trunk more than the doors. I got my trunk adjusters installed with the heim joints and the real deal holyfield trunk seal. I think the adjusters are going to work but with the real deal seal installed, the bottom doesn't shut all the way like it did with the spacers. I believe I'm going to need to cut back the bottom body lip to prevent the seal from being wedged. I don't think i ever cut it back to the manual dimensions. Will have to wait until tomorrow (or later cause football starts tomorrow!). I couldn't do it tonight as I was past my "loud noise making hours" as set by my wife. I learned my lesson a while back when I woke our kid to be selective when I do. The waterfall is coming along nicely as well. After surgery it fits much much better. I'm pretty over the bodywork phase but still have a long ways to go but I think I'm almost through the difficult stuff.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139139&d=1607826929

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[TxMike64]

... I couldn't do it tonight as I was past my "loud noise making hours" as set by my wife. I learned my lesson a while back when I woke our kid....

Been there, made that mistake myself...

I make the argument "the kids gotta learn how to sleep through it, or he'll never sleep..." Needless to say, she didn't agree with me. When we built our house I was adamant about having a detached garage with shop space. That probably saved our marriage, and I can work at will while the kids sleep. Granted, they still wake at a pin drop, but not every time I drop a wrench or crank up the grinder.

Married 11 years with two kids, and I've learned "Happy Wife = Happy Life".

[fostia]

Finally sprayed all the miscellaneous components with epoxy primer. For all the hours i spent on body work it looks meh. Thankfully its just primer and can be fixed later. Plan is just run it in primer (southern poly is UV resistant) then when i have the $, maybe get a professional paintjob someday.... someday. Or maybe give it a shot myself although i think my neighbors would not be too stoked on the fumes.

Pinholes and unevenness everywhere. I think where i could improve is:

1.) Use a finer grit paper. I was using 80 per the epoxy instructions but could prob should have used 120.
2.) Use glazing putty after the rage gold.
3.) Use some guide coat when sanding
4.) Work on spray technique. I put it on too heavy/stopped too early in some areas resulting in what i think are little divet bubble things... at least that what i think thats from. This is just prumer but i assume this problem would carry over to real paint...

I have yet to finish the body but am going to try these things.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138300&d=1606289155

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138299&d=1606289046

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138298&d=1606289046

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[cob427sc]

Well, at least you tried. Primer is easy to sand out the imperfections as it looks like at least one location it went on a little heavy and those pin holes will easily fill with some putty. The divets look like there was some impurity on the surface and will require sanding out, thoroughly cleaned and resprayed. I'm not an expert here by any means but have experienced all those issues and more. I give you a definite thumbs up for attempting and don't give up!

[fostia]

Been working pretty much non-stop every night when the kid goes to bed. Wife probably wonders if she has a husband. Moved the body to my harbor freight body shop booth and bonded in some fender washers where the studs for the windshield and roof go into. Reshaped my power steering controller bracket so I could better get my hands through the engine access panels. Added an accessory fuse panel and cleaned up a ton of wiring. Added a hidden fuel pump shutoff switch. Hooked up the fuel lines and added clickstuds to the fuel tank to attach the lines. Added a line locker to the front brake line since it was leaking. Added a carb fuel vent extension to hopefully help with my car wanting to stall under really heavy braking. Been busy.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138291&d=1606287857

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[fostia]

I have also encased the entire cabin in two layers of heat shielding. Trying to keep the heat out as much as possible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138292&d=1606287865

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[33fromSD]

Nice...

[33fromSD]

Fostia...if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your power brake booster / dual MC from? Thanks

[fostia]

Fostia...if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your power brake booster / dual MC from? Thanks

Bought the kit from Whitby Motorcars.

[33fromSD]

Bought the kit from Whitby Motorcars.

Thank You

[fostia]

Stole SVTfreak's idea of a recessed fuel filler. I may have went a bit aggressive building up the fiberglass on the inside.... Should still work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139130&d=1607826476

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[fostia]

After months of bodywork I've emerged with a car.......looking a little better. It really needs a coat of high build primer and further work but I'm over it for now. Going to run it for a couple years in primer before I have money for a real deal professional paint job. Even if I wanted to do it myself I don't think my suburban neighborhood would appreciate the fumes. That being said, I only have a couple gremlins left to tackle on the rebuild. I need to get the damn trunk latch/popper working. I might just ditch the whole factory five setup and weld up my own version as the angles just don't work right. I need to fix the fitment of the hardtop studs and fix a leak in my line locker. After that hopefully I'm in business for a while. Crossing my fingers that I don't get a fuel leak with all my connections to the boyd tank. I drove it a tiny bit in go-cart mode again and all seemed well. Don't need to be a fireball driving down the street.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142311&d=1612854211

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[fostia]

Pictures continued from previous post

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[fostia]

Pictures continue from previous 2 posts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142325&d=1612854342

[Straversi]

Love it! Congratulations.
-Steve

[RoadRacer]

Nice, now have fun!!!