#9405 erstanl's MkIV build

[erstanl]

So I started a basic kit build a couple of months ago. Ordered it on 6/21/2018, it was delivered on 8/21/2018. I am still waiting on a single POL item, the steering wheel. Other than that, I think I have it all. Haven't had a minute to create a build thread so here we go.

What I am shooting for:
408w
TKO600
IRS
hydroboost brakes
13" PBR front brakes
13" IRS brake kit

Lots of other decisions to be made, but right now I'm just enjoying the exquisite detail of it all. Probably won't be quite as picky though once spring rolls around :)

I'll add some pics of the progress. I have always enjoyed looking at everyone builds, maybe someday someone will find my information useful. I'd appreciate some feedback if you see things going sideways!

Prep for the big day:
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[erstanl]

The big day. It was awesome. Driver was great, super nice guy.

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[erstanl]

Next, I rebuilt the 2004 donor pedal box. Pretty fun.

1) Nice coat of paint
2) Added some welds to stiffen it up
3) Added Steeda clutch quadrant and cable adjuster. I added a set screw to the rear eye of the quadrant. Too much play for my liking. Once it was mounted, I also adjusted it to rotate within 4 thou parallelism with the pedal box. Made sure it was dead cented lined up with the clutch cable.
4) Replaced all bushings
5) Replaced the clutch switch

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[erstanl]

Installed front suspension. Used the tubular LCA's, and 2004 PBR 13" mustang front calipers. Ended up using red POR-15 caliper paint. Strange stuff, but once you get used to it, its pretty nice. Id use it again.

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[erstanl]

Next, installed the IRS. That thing is heavy. Went with 3.55 gears, and the swaybar kit. I had to "adjust" some of the bracket mounts, as they were too tight. Used a piece of 1/2-13 all-thread, a couple of washers and nuts. Placed properly, and expanded with great care, I was able to open up some of the brackets without banging on them.

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[erstanl]

Working on the driver side front footbox now. Just mocking it all up before I make it final.

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I have a question on this. That booster mounted up okay, but the adapter does not seat fully against the steel. Its partially on the aluminum, so it can rock. Are you guys just cutting out the adapter shape in the aluminum so it seats against the steel? Also, don't know what the part looks like that actually transfers the force from the booster to the MC. Looks like it should be a rod of some type, but I don't have one, and cannot find an example. Any help, pictures or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[Venom61]

Did that booster come with the kit? I don't recall that option when we ordered ours in December of 2016?

[erstanl]

Venom, no. I sourced it from a 2004 Mach1 (reman), to ensure it matched the pedal box.

Scratch that. The reman's dont come with the output rod. Had to order a new one from Motorcraft, its got the output rod. Hopefully ill mock it all up this weekend. Pics coming.

[Joe390]

The Pedal Box Looks Good...…....I went with the same one..!! I believe that white switch is for the Cruise Control Disconnect...!

[Joe390]

I had the same problem with my 1996 Ford Master Cylinder......I purchased the Wildwood Universal Brake Pedal Pushrod Kit...from Summit Racing...…...included several adapters + [2] different length pushrods....! worked perfect..!

[erstanl]

Update: 1/2/2019

Happy new year all! Made a little progress over the holiday break.

First, spent Christmas eve yanking this 5.8 from a 1994 F150 with my family. Great times :) Just waiting on the stand to come in, and ill see if all the work was worth it. Still mulling over some options here, but intending to punch it out, and stroke to a 408:
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Got the steering rack extended, and the inner tie rods shortened:
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Mocked up the front footbox a little more. Waiting on a brake light switch, and steering rack bushings from Breeze.
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[cgundermann]

Next, I rebuilt the 2004 donor pedal box. Pretty fun.

1) Nice coat of paint
2) Added some welds to stiffen it up
3) Added Steeda clutch quadrant and cable adjuster. I added a set screw to the rear eye of the quadrant. Too much play for my liking. Once it was mounted, I also adjusted it to rotate within 4 thou parallelism with the pedal box. Made sure it was dead cented lined up with the clutch cable.
4) Replaced all bushings
5) Replaced the clutch switch

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Nicely done! Seems like so few of these are used now (I used a refurbished one)...

Chris

[erstanl]

Installed the 1993 power rack with the extensions supplied by FFR, Breeze solid bushings, and Moog tie rod ends. I had to clearance the frame a bit to get the rack and bellows to clear, but it wasn't much, and looks pretty good. The Breeze solid mounts are very nice. I'd use them again.
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Also started stripping the 351w. Bit of a mess, but so far no indications of trouble.
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[erstanl]

So I broke down the F4TE, it looks pretty good, other than being totally dirty. Its got a 4" bore (not rebuilt), and I was able to remove a broken water pump bolt. From my perspective, its looking good. Now I need to find a good machine shop in the area to clean it and check for cracks. Fingers crossed. The crank looks perfect, and all the valve train is in great shape. Almost a shame to not re-use it. Decisions! The plan is to get the cylinders bored to 4.030" and get a good stroker kit with a 4" throw steel crank, forged rods, and possibly forged pistons. I need to figure out which head/piston combo I will be using so I'd love some suggestions in that department. I'm looking for 450+ HP, but would like to run pump gas. I do intend to use aluminum heads. Lots more research in my future to get this all matched up properly.
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Meanwhile, I'm drilling holes and using up all my cleco's. Had to order some more. It really is pretty awesome how FF put so much work into the aluminum. It fits together quite well. I also decided to go the raw aluminum look, and using sharkhide. That is some weird stuff, but it looks great.
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One thing I have noticed is that when I switched from the poly clutch quadrant to an aluminum steeda piece, is that the clutch pedal throw is enormous. I am assuming that I will have to add limiters on both ends, but I am hesitant to do that until I have a clutch. I'd hate to limit the throw in such a way that the clutch isn't fully disengaged/engaged. You can kind of see it in the pic below. The throw is also so deep that I had to temporarily take that plastic clip off of the clutch safety switch so I wouldn't accidentally break it off.
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Not a huge fan of the lines on the power steering rack. Not kinked, but not exactly free flowing either. I am going to try and bend some new lines, so we will see how that goes. Looks like its using just a simple bubble flair. Took a few measurements to ensure I get the right parts.
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[DadofThree]

I enjoy seeing this type of build, and reminds me of mine. :)

You may be able to get a different steering line that's not kinked from the local "pick a part" that's both OEM and fits your liking. No bending or flaring required. :)

Rock On!

[Yama-Bro]

Looking good!

[erstanl]

So I took the 351w roller block to a machine shop (Pro Machine) yesterday, they are going to check it out and get ready to punch it out to a 408. The machinist just needs to know the heads I'm using so he can order the proper pistons for the eagle rotating assembly. Still trying to figure that out, so I need to call Mr. Levy later today and chat about the top end.

In the meantime, I have started fitting the passenger footbox.
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[erstanl]

I got the block to David at Pro Machine, he has the rotating assembly on the way and a mess of ARP hardware. He is going to do all the machining and also clearance the block for me. It cleaned up nice, and there aren't any issues. I also have a 408 top end kit coming from Mr. Levy. Super excited to put this thing together!

In the mean time, I put together the fuel tank and got it installed. Used an in tank Walbro 255 pump, and a Breeze big bore vent kit. Breezes stuff has been awesome so far. Great customer service too! I drilled out the ends of the hanger as suggested in the build manual. Everything went together well, other than having to bend the vertical tank support out so the tank would fit in. I do wonder if the fuel lines on the stock 1993 hanger are able to support a 255 Walbro. They just seem undersized, but apparently a lot of folks run this way.
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[erstanl]

Spent some time fitting up the floor pans and the driver side aluminum. Its coming together well. Just waiting for all the engine parts to start coming in. Hard to be patient!

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[erstanl]

Got the block back from Pro Machine. It turned out well. This is what I had done:
1) Bore 4.030
2) Square the decks based on the main
3) Crack check, hot tank
4) Align hone the main
5) All new core and oil gallery plugs
6) Cylinder hone
7) New cam bearings
8) Balancing of new Eagle steel crank, balancer and flywheel

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Now, I am waiting on the top end parts from Mr. Levy, then its time to put things together!

[erstanl]

Finished up fitting the cockpit panels. Was able to get my helpers involved. Kids seems to really like clecos...

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I am still waiting on top end parts for the engine. I had no idea it would take this long to receive them. I hope the wait is worth it.

[erstanl]

Got the block cleaned up, painted, and ready for the rotating assembly.
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[Vspeeds]

I just came across this thread. You’re making good progress. Looks good.

[erstanl]

So, I have seen a few builds that have an e brake mounted on top of the tunnel, as opposed to the intended side mount. Id like to find some details on that setup. Could someone point me in the right direction?

[Boydster]

I used a Lokar handle setup with Wilwood cables that match the Wilwood brakes from F5. Works really well. Post #162 on page 5 of my build thread.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76819&d=1510878835

[erstanl]

Boydster, thanks for the info! That looks really nice... I like the top mount better I think. Probably a complication on my side will be using the 2018 mustang brakes. Ill have to weed through that.

[erstanl]

So, back to the engine. Working on the cam now. Not as simple as lubing it up and stuffing it in the tunnel. I opted for a Comp timing set PN# 7138, as recommended by Comp. Here is the timing set and cam card.
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Its a nice billet set that uses a torrington bearing. I installed the cam, which was simple and rotates really well. No issues there.
Then it came to the ford cam thrust plate. It needed to be countersunk, so the torrington bearing could lay flat. Here I am centering up on the existing holes to ensure an accurate countersink.
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And then there was the timing sprocket. After just hand tightening the cam bolt, I could immediately feel drag. Too much drag for hand tightening. After a lot of measuring and an incredibly worthless call to Comp tech support, I determined it was the thrust plate. It was too thick, and was applying too much pressure on the thrust plate. The only way to fix this was to either have it professionally ground, or to lap it to thickness. I chose the later, as I have a pretty good inspection plate I use for lapping parts. This what I ended up with, pretty flat and consistent.
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It also ended up with about 0.002" backlash in the set (tough too see in this pic), which I *think* is good for this setup. Pretty tough to find good info on this, even from Comp.
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All mocked up and ready for the crank! Rolls smooth, no binding.
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[erstanl]

Here is the cam spec and timing set I used:
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[erstanl]

So after thinking (worrying) more about the cam install, and that torrington bearing, I decided to call comp again. I got someone that knew their stuff this time. They stated that the cam end play with an 7138 timing set, and a hydraulic roller cam should be between 0.002 and 0.005. Ill have to go back in and take out another thousandth from the thrust plate, but other than that, Case closed!

[erstanl]

Finished lapping the thrust plate, its all within spec now. Check that off the list :)
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[erstanl]

Also got the crank dropped in. Its an Eagle cast steel crank with a 4" throw. Nice piece but it was super tight. End play was 0.001". Way too tight. Had to lap the thrust bearing to bring it into spec. The process was quick and it turned out really well.
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After the crank was set, the timing set finally went in. Went with a straight up configuration at the recommendation of the Comp techs.
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[erstanl]

While waiting on some connecting rod bearings to come in, I spent some time on the fuel system. I switched over to a higher flow pump hanger that has -6AN input and output from Pro-M Racing. I also went with the summit billet post filter (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230123b) setup, also with -6AN fittings.
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Had to modify the tank a little, but it was pretty painless.
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[Boydster]

That Pro-M unit is way cool, but mark which tube is which for the future. They are exactly the same on the outside... ;)

[erstanl]

Got the new hanger and pump installed, along with the new pre-filter. It fit so much better than the previous one I had. I always wondered if it would just fall off in the tank. The one the Pro-M supplied fits really nice, and had a positive feel to it when you slip it on the end of the pump. You can faintly see it, but I stamped "I" and "O" on the AN fitting flats, so I dont get them mixed up like Boydster mentioned previously.
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[erstanl]

Got the passenger footbox installed last night in preparation for the fuel lines.
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[erstanl]

Well, i was able to finally calculate the static compression. Looks like 9.8 to 1 is the magic number. Wondering if that is enough compression...

[erstanl]

So, spent some serious time in the shop on Saturday. I was able to get the rotating assembly in. I file fit all the rings (Hastings Race Rings 2m8542035) , 0.026 on the top ring and 0.016 on the second ring. Cleaned up the bores about 20 times with ATF, and oiled them up. Everything seems to be in just fine. It would be great to know how much drag there should be at this point. Seems like a lot, but thats a lot of rings increasing the friction too :)

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[erstanl]

Getting some 3/8 NiCopp fuel lines put together. This flaring tool takes all the fight right out of it. Using fragola -6AN hardware, which has been really nice so far.
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[erstanl]

Got the fuel lines mostly in. Turned out ok.
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[erstanl]

So, I was able to work on the engine a bit more. I spent a day fitting the different parts, like the water pump, timing cover, PS bracket, alternator bracket, harmonic damper, and the oiling system.

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Everything fit up nice, very little grinding required. So I went to install the oil pump (Melling M83HV) and ran into an issue. I was using an ARP oil pump bolt kit so I used their lube on everything. Loosely mounted the pump to the block, and then started fitting the pickup tube. Hand tightened the two bolts for the pickup, and then started sneaking up on the torque spec. Bam. Cracked the housing.

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Contacted Summit this morning. Was worried because I bought the pump back in April. They set me up with a replacement and it will be here tomorrow. Really enjoy working with Summit. They have been very good to make things right.

[ydousurf]

I'm digging your build, erstanl! I got it bookmarked and will follow along with your progress... Way to dig into the fully and build it all pretty much all of it! Keep at it and keep posting your progress pics too!

Dj

[Joel Hauser]

I really enjoy this thread and your build. I am so impressed at how neat and clean and organized everything is, as well as your attention to detail. Your car is going to be amazing.
My garage was a mess from start to finish, and it's still a mess. And my roadster's be "done" for a couple years.

Keep up the good work.

[Gizmosrcool]

keep it coming. I love the engine build details.

[erstanl]

Alright. The replacement oil pump came in as scheduled. I disassembled it, used a die grinder to remove some of the casting flash in the oil passages, and cleaned it really well. Installed it and checked all the clearances, its a go! I am using a Champ Pan and pickup. Its a high capacity pan for road racing. It has a windage tray and the pickup area has trap door baffles. Other than a little warpage from the welding, its a nice piece.

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The guys from Champ pans are good dudes. They recommended that the pickup be 0.25-0.50 from the pan. I used the play-doh in the ziplock trick. Place that on the pickup, installed the pan, removed the pan, and measured the thickness. The pickup doesnt sit exactly parallel with the pan, so I measured all four corners. It averaged out to about 0.280. Should be solid.

[erstanl]

Trying to check the piston to valve clearance. Big valves, big cam, so seems like the prudent thing to do.
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The triple valve springs are way too stiff for an empty hydraulic roller. Even with test springs, the lifters cant handle it. I am putting together some locked out hydraulic lifters to force the valve to its max position in the cylinder. That should give me the worst case scenario for pistons smacking valves.

[erstanl]

Ok. Piston to valve clearance is good. I ended up taking 2 of the old lifters and gutting them. I then took some of the 3/8" NiCopp and cut a piece that fit into the lifter in place of the plunger and spring. I put the cap back on and the retainer spring. Worked well. Didnt move at all.

Now on to the next problem :)
Went to install the heads, and found that my brand new Ford lifters have an issue.
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Going by the image, D2 will not work. Its the wrong diameter. 0.8738-0.8743 seems to be an appropriate range. The outlier, and there is only one, is 0.8756. Wont even fit into the lifter bores. Guess I will call Mr. Levy and see what we can do.

[erstanl]

Okay, so Mr. Levy was able to send me a single lifter that matches the rest. Mic'd it, and it checks out. Time to start the top-end of this beast! Next!

I talked to Mr. Forte about a TKO600, he got me all setup. There was a snag though, the flywheel I got from my machinist was a PRW 164 tooth. The QT bellhousing that Mr. Forte is supplying needs a 157 tooth flywheel.

This is the incompatible flywheel:
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Its a PRW FWS-30280 164 tooth, w/ 28oz imbalance.

[erstanl]

Update. Bunch of stuff going on at the same time. The engine build is moving fast now. Installed the RHS heads, champ oil pan, balancer, new front brake lines (rigid and flex). The only issue thus far is is a single pushrod guide plate. Its a Comp part, and for some reason, the groove is far wider than the other 15 plates. So much so that the roller is only halfway on the valve stem.
Not good.
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Good.
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I contacted Mr. Levy as he supplied the top end kit for this 408. RHS is already sending me out a replacement. Awesome!

Got most of the accessories mocked up, and everything looks good. Only thing left is to get the alternator and make sure the belt lines up.
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Got the last Fragola fuel line for the tank (Christmas gift from the in-laws). Its a -6AN setup that is PTFE lined. Nice stuff.
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Received a mess of parts from Mr. Forte. Got a Ram clutch, ACE flywheel, mini starter, QT bell housing, and a TKO 600.
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Also got a powder coater lined up, will be dropping the wheels and the intake manifold off this week. Can't wait to see them!

[erstanl]

Got the alternator (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GN4XGI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on last night. Fits nicely with the Speed Doctor bracket. Measured the belt, and it turned out to be 53".
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Also got the wheels back from powder coating. They look sweet.
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[cv2065]

Wheels look good!

[erstanl]

So, got the intake back from powder coating. Looks, well, wet :)

Got the belt figured out, and the valve covers on. This thing is about ready for a tranny.
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I have heard that when it comes to installing the engine, that one should do it with the tranny installed. Also, that it was a good idea to get tires on so the front end could be on the ground. I'm guessing that its a good idea to raise the tail end up to help with the angles. Any other tips or tricks?

[edwardb]

So, got the intake back from powder coating. Looks, well, wet :)

Got the belt figured out, and the valve covers on. This thing is about ready for a tranny.
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I have heard that when it comes to installing the engine, that one should do it with the tranny installed. Also, that it was a good idea to get tires on so the front end could be on the ground. I'm guessing that its a good idea to raise the tail end up to help with the angles. Any other tips or tricks?

Engine looks nice. Absolutely put the engine/trans in as one unit. Not even something to consider without. Getting the TKO in/out with the engine installed can be done, but there are some tricks and not easy. Yes, some suggest raising the rear wheels. I personally haven't on any I've done and didn't have any issues. For your engine, I'd use a carb plate to lift. Leveler if you have one but not mandatory. Hook it where the engine hangs down in the back. Take the shifter off the TKO. Makes things easier back there. With a helper or two, it will tip in pretty easily. Some put the transmission A-frame in ahead of time. I don't. I just have it ready to install once the engine/trans is in.

[erstanl]

Got the wheels wrapped in Nitto NT555G2 rubber, 255/40ZR17 up front and 315/35ZR17 in the back. They look mean. So excited to see this thing on the ground. Its been on fully extended jackstands for over a year, so ive forgotten how small of a shadow these things cast. Looks wicked :)

I got the RAM clutch and ACE flywheel from Mr. Forte, and they worked out great. Simple install, and parts fit well together. Bolted those up and then got the TKO 600 attached. I was so excited to see it all come together I had to drop the car down and get the whole thing installed!

A few things I learned this time around:
1) Its easier to install a clutch fork in the QuickTime bellhousing before its bolted to the transmission. It is possible to install after, but a bit tougher.
2) The pad on the transmission where the poly mount bolts to has 2 different thread options. Inner is a M10x1.5 and the outer is a 1/2-13. The outer one is the location for the FF supplied poly mount. I had to source some 1.25" long 1/2-13 bolts to make that work.
3) My engine hoist gets trapped under the frame rails once the weight of the engine is on the mounts. Simple enough to remedy, but annoying.
4) It is not bad to install the whole drivetrain yourself. Took me about 5 minutes to get it all in without banging anything up.

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NEXT!

[cv2065]

Looks great! The handle assembly on the engine leveler looks pretty stout! Did you modify it or did it come that way.

[erstanl]

cv, it’s a well built leveler. It’s an OTC stinger my wife bought me like 10 years ago. She’s been buying me tools for almost 20 years now, just for this project.

[erstanl]

So I mocked up the FFR 351 headers on Saturday. Everything seems to fit and clear just fine. However, I noticed one thing thats a bit concerning. The exhaust ports on the RHS 215cc heads I have are ~1.3" wide and the header ports are ~1" wide. Its not much, but its certainly not matched well. Did anyone else run into this, and what did you do about it?

[erstanl]

Several things to report.

1) After dropping the engine in, I found that the clutch pedal throw was not so great. The pedal was above the brake pedal by about 3 inches. After using the different notches on the clutch quadrant I determined that the clutch fork itself was the culprit. So, out comes the engine again. I'm getting really good at this.
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2) I wish I had a better picture to describe the problem. When the throwout bearing is just touching the pressure plate springs, the clutch fork was too far forward. This wrecks the mechanical advantage and made the the end of the clutch throw less than useful. The pic below is after I corrected the clutch fork angle. It is now on the opposite side of orthogonal. For future builders, when I first installed the clutch the fork stud was at 40mm from the bottom of the head to the bellhousing. This was the problem. After pulling the bellhousing from the engine, and also from the transmission, I backed the stud out to 44mm. Put it all back together, stuffed it into the frame, and now I can use the closest quadrant notch and limit the pedal to match the brake pedal height. Perfect.
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3) Got the sniper mounted up, looks great. This means that wiring is next on the list. Looking forward to it.
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[SamNavy]

Gotta say... that might be the best looking engine I've ever seen in a cobra. I've never been a fan of chrome under the hood, and those black valve covers look simply awesome. I don't know if you had a specific goal or "image" in mind when you started, but excellent work.

[erstanl]

SamNavy, thanks! I'm terrible with aesthetics. My wife can vouch for me :)

Really, I am just avoiding chrome, and not shying away from some of the other available colors. Except maybe blue when possible.

I kinda like the angry no-nonsense look for a cobra.

[erstanl]

So a few things since the last update:
1) Completed the necessary wiring for a front battery, and a Holley Sniper. I haven't bundled it all up yet, its still a bit untidy. I took special care to separate ignition wires from everything else. It would appear that the most dissatisfaction in using a Sniper comes from RF/EMI gremlins caused by ignition interference. The wiring really wasn't too bad, this is such a simple car. One of the reason I am attracted to it.

2) I primed the engine with the oil pressure gauge hooked up. 60psi :) Pretty happy about that number.

3) Welded in an o2 bung on the primary for cylinder 5.
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4) Installed and timed the Dual Sync distributor:
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5) Attempted to fire!!! Big disappointment ensued. I turned it over, but no fire. I checked the coil, it had spark. I checked cylinder number 1, it had spark. There was definitely fuel. After playing with a few things I decided that I it would be best to leave it alone for the night and calm down a little. I was really surprised at how anxious one gets when trying to start an engine he has spent a year building :)
The next morning I decided that this is just a timing issue. Its too far out to make the burn happen. In the sniper instructions, everything is based off 50 degrees BTDC. I took a closer look at my balancer, and realized I had measured 50 degrees from the wrong scale! Once I re-established the scale that actually represented true TDC, things started happening. On the first bump of the ignition, it started firing. After I calmed down (and the neighborhood showed up), I officially started it! She runs, and sounds pretty good. I didnt run it for more than 15 seconds though, as I dont have a cooling system just yet, so I cannot warm it up and start dialing it in. Needless to say, I am pretty happy at the moment!

https://youtu.be/xyPOAIkN4wg
https://youtu.be/xyPOAIkN4wg

[Straversi]

Congrats! Big milestone moment.
-Steve

[erstanl]

1) Getting busy with the dash. I made it removable by putting some nutserts in the bottom of the dash hoop, and riveting/epoxying some angle brackets to the back of the dash. Also added some stiffer supports to the bottom side of the dash.
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2) Got the forte mechanical linkage installed. Its nice, works as intended. Id do it again.
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3) Shortened up a bunch of wires behind the dash, just too long for my liking. Mainly the headlight switch and the ignition. If you are doing a lot of electrical, I would highly recommend going over to ceautoelectricsupply.com. They ship fast, and make it easy to find some connectors that are hard to source otherwise.
4) Got the cooling system in. Used boigs upper and lower, and a sweet ebay overflow tank.

[erstanl]

Started working on buttoning up the wiring, in prep to go cart this thing. So I am working on laying out the wiring for the seat heaters. Decided to swap out the switches and use the FF ones. Also added a metripack connector in the mix.
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Here is a shot of the cooling system, and the engine put together enough to run.
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[erstanl]

Got the dash in. I didnt like how the switches looked against the padded covering. I ended up getting some stainless washers and putting those under the outmost nut. I also removed the nut against the switch body, so the switch is right up against the aluminum. I added a little hot glue between the two, and that eliminated the twisting of the switch.

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Also getting the dash wiring debugged. Added a panel for the seat heater relays and fuses. Decided to move the inertia switch away from the driver side. Just felt wrong.

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[erstanl]

Post engine start, the power steering system finally was able to be pressurized. Amazing, all my custom hoses worked well, but the the new power steering rack is garbage. It is a sport version, using a ford casting. The passenger seal is mangled. Not so great.
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Here is the replacement version. Also a sport rack, but using the TRW design. It is leak free, and smooth. Awesome!
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[erstanl]

Decided to increase the trunk space using the Breeze trunk drop kit. Its a lot of extra work, but I think it will be worth it.
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[erstanl]

So im happy to say that it works! Its actually drives and seems somewhat safe :) It is definitely torquey, can break your neck if your not careful. Maybe should add another spring to the throttle. Other than that, the first go-cart resulted in much happiness, and no additional work. The cat is out of the bag though, so my neighbors are asking me about it all the time.
140712

[erstanl]

Big milestone, in November 2020 I made the 700 mile trip from SLC to visit Jeff Miller :)

140713
140714

He's a great guy, fun to talk to, loads of experience. I cannot wait to see the final product. Its starting to feel like a car, not just a project!

[GTBradley]

Decided to increase the trunk space using the Breeze trunk drop kit. Its a lot of extra work, but I think it will be worth it.
140711

It is:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134764&d=1599425320

[erstanl]

GTBradley, what shade of blue is that?

[GTBradley]

GTBradley, what shade of blue is that?
It’s a custom color made from the original Guardsman Blue, specifically the 1964 Ford Mustang blue by Dupont - now known as Axalta. My painter took my ideas for something a little lighter and removed all the black tint from the original formula.

[erstanl]

We now have color! Thanks a bunch to Jeff Miller. He's a great painter, and a nice guy to boot!

142399

[GTBradley]

There ya go! That’s a pretty color and I feel partly responsible:cool:.

PS. Don’t boot Jeff Miller, he deserves better.

[erstanl]

Started putting her eyes in. Took a good deal of trimming to get the buckets in. Jeff made me promise to not use a file, so a die grinder it was! Worked well, the buckets are now in and looking good.

142744 142745 142978

[erstanl]

Went to put the fuel filler on, noticed that the latch is cracked. Contacted FFR, they are on backorder. You guys think I could get away with installing it until the new one comes in? Meaning, are the screw holes consistent between them? Id hate to punch unnecessary holes in the fiberglass...
142977

[D Stand]

I just drilled mine, no paint yet. I’d say install it. Even if new one is slightly different you can just open the holes more for adjustment. Just to let you know I changed my hardware out to flat head machine screws and nylon nuts versus the supplied tapping screws.