Clutch pedal interference issue addressed on latest frames?

[JohnK]

I have a Mk4 roadster kit on order, with a Dec. 22 'ready for pickup' date. I'm still deliberating on is the powdercoat option for the frame. I've heard rumors that the newest frames have resolved the clutch pedal interference issue, and a frame mod is no longer required. Can someone that's recently received a chassis confirm whether this is, in fact, the case? I've seen that some folks are modifying the clutch pedal itself. Not 100% decided on pedal vs. frame mod (if a mod is stll required) but if a frame mod is still required I may take this as an opportunity (excuse) to receive the frame bare, clean up any weld splatter, make the needed mod for the clutch pedal, and PC it in the color of my choice. If the clutch pedal interference issue is no longer a problem on the newest chassis, I'd probably call it 'good enough' and receive the chassis already powdercoated.

[edwardb]

Others with actual hands on experience hopefully will also answer. But I've heard/seen a number of more recent builds (well after my #8674 from a couple years ago) that have confirmed the clutch pedal does not interfere with the frame any longer. Seems very clear Factory Five has made the minor change necessary to provide clearance for the pedal all the way to the back of the footbox. I wouldn't leave the frame uncoated for that reason. Hopefully you've also done some checking on PC costs. The cost Factory Five charges is a bargain compared to any I've checked.

[cv2065]

I have a new frame and didn’t have any interference issues. I still went with the RT pedal as I wanted the adjustment with the Forte mechanical linkage. As Paul said, the powdercoating on the frame is a no brainer. I thought about doing something like POR15, but it would have cost more money in time and effort.

One thing I will say is that the new frames are Satin and not gloss, so touching up with POR15 is not an option, as before it looked to be a perfect blend. I found a Rustoleum Satin that is close in spray can.

[JohnK]

Thank you both. That's good to hear that the clutch pedal interference has been resolved by FFR. I was on the fence between the convenience and cost savings of receiving the frame powerdercoated vs the desire to do a color other than black. I do know a local powdercoater that's 'reasonably priced' by SF bay area standards but that's still going to be more expensive than having FFR PC the frame. Thanks for the heads up on the current frame color - not sure what I think of satin black vs. gloss black.

[Papa]

My MK4 received June of 2017 does not have any clutch pedal interference. Now if FFR would move the cross brace that interferes with the brake pedal...

[karlos]

Now if FFR would move the cross brace that interferes with the brake pedal...


As well as the one that interferes with a TKO mid-shift conversion...

[FFinisher]

My MK4 received June of 2017 does not have any clutch pedal interference. Now if FFR would move the cross brace that interferes with the brake pedal...


40 cars, never had this problem, Dating back to 2006, Some donor cars, some with Wilwood pedal boxes..........

[JohnK]

OK, I got a quote to have the frame sandblasted to bare metal, zinc primered, and powder coated in any color I want. Definitely more the having FFR do it, but not horribly bad, and I'd get to do it in the color I want.

Question for everyone. If i was to receive a bare frame, besides cleaning up all the weld splatter and checking and straightening the mount points for control arms and whatnot, what other frame mods would be worth looking at before powder coat? Addressing the cross brace in the tranny tunnel to be able to do a mid shifter is one I'd already considered. Anything else that folks would have liked to do if they'd had a bare frame?

[cv2065]

As well as the one that interferes with a TKO mid-shift conversion...

Was considering the mid-shift. What mod needs to happen to accommodate?

[karlos]

Depending on the shifter, you may need to provide clearance to one of the diagonals in the transmission tunnel.

Photo shows the remedy I chose. You’ll get lots of different opinions on this, but everyone agrees the way the other guy did it is nfg :)


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64177&d=1487453780

[CraigS]

The one thing I might want to look at is the front body mount ears. I suspect that since they stick way out front they are real handy for anyone moving a frame so they get used. The end result is that a fair percentage need some sideways tweaking to get the body to line up. Not a big deal, probably only a few degrees bend but could crack the PC if done afterwards. Oops, just thought of a 2nd area. How about the extra dropped trunk? I strongly recommend leave the 3/4x3/4 tubes in place and just use the space for small articles that will fit between. But some have redesigned to remove one or two of the tubes.

[JohnK]

Great tip on the body mount ears - thanks! I've seen the dropped trunk done both ways (with and without removing the 3/4 x 3/4 tubes). For sure it's "cleaner" looking with the tubes removed, but that's venturing into strucural changes that I'm not comfortable with.

[Gromit]

So many little details if you are open to welding on your brand new frame, and If your in for a bare frame before P.C. you have the opportunity to do mods like this.

Plus mods above,
Decide up front if you want driver and or passenger roll bar and if NO cut off the unneeded stubs.
I would also consider welding a mount for a Drive shaft loop rather than doing a bolt on device that goes off the Trany mount or other.
I've also seen a couple of builds move the passenger site bracket for the gas tank down out of the trunk. but that would mean making a custom strap for that side.
Close up the open pipes to prevent stuff from getting in.

all small details but would add to a full tilt build if you where thinking on the high end of the build scale.

Chris AKA Gromit