Main Fuse Rating

[mlewis]

All,

Working on my power wiring for my coyote install.

Would like to follow others on adding a fuse between alternator and battery.

Looks like most use a 150 amp fuse. Do I have this correct?

If not, should I go higher or lower?

Much thanks.

[edwardb]

I used a ANL 150 amp fuse in the alternator line for #8674 and plan to do the same with my Coupe build. Both are Coyote builds, like yours, and I suspect you're using the same Ford Performance 5.0 Alternator Kit M-8600-M50BALT that I am. I've been unable to determine the actual rating of that alternator. Ford has that style available in 130, 170, and 200-amp ratings. Even the lowest rating should be more than adequate for our needs in these builds. A 150 amp fuse should provide the necessary protection in the unlikely case of an alternator failure that could be harmful to the rest of the electrical system.

[Railroad]

Here is what I used. It is can be tripped manually and can be reset after a trip.

9691296913

[NAZ]

Railroad, I like that CB -- is it from Del City?

[Railroad]

I think so. It was a gift. I put the word out, what I needed and it became available.
I mounted it on top of the passenger foot box. It is a neat item.
The red button will trip the connection. Pushing the red lever in resets it.

[mlewis]

Thanks all.

I got through off by the 250a fuse that came with the coyote harness.

I do like that re-settable version. Let me know if you find a part number for that.

[edwardb]

Thanks all.

I got through off by the 250a fuse that came with the coyote harness.

I do like that re-settable version. Let me know if you find a part number for that.

Yea the Ford provided 250 amp fuse is strictly for the power going into the Coyote PDB. To be honest, that fuse has always been a mystery to me. The Coyote system doesn't pull anywhere near that much current and I can't imagine what it would take to trip that thing. Basically a full system meltdown of some kind. But Ford engineers say to install it.

That circuit breaker looks like this one: https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=76530. Nice piece and an elegant solution. FWIW, I haven't blown a <$10 ANL fuse on the alternator circuit in 9 seasons of driving. Keep a spare in the glovebox with a selection of the other fuses used in the car.

[boat737]

Here is what I used. It is can be tripped manually and can be reset after a trip.

9691296913

I did pretty much the same thing. Exception is I'm using a 50A between the Alternator and the Battery. It hasn't tripped yet (500 miles on the car.). I settled on the 50A since I'm running 8ga wire from the Alt to the Batt, and 8ga is about the min wire gauge for 50A up to about 5 to 10 feet in length (even though it's only a few feet in my case.). I am also using a 100A breaker for my entire electrical load (not counting the starter solenoid) and I think a 0ga to that one. It is located behind the dash on the left end. I have used the 100A as a master cutoff, and manually tripped it probably 200 or 300 times during and after the build. I got them (as well as other amp ratings since I was still doing the calculations for loads) from Amazon.

[mlewis]

Excellent feedback all (as always).

On a related topic, planning to run 2awg power wire. Curios where others get their wire, terminal lugs and associated crimp tool ?

[edwardb]

Excellent feedback all (as always).

On a related topic, planning to run 2awg power wire. Curios where others get their wire, terminal lugs and associated crimp tool ?

I use 2 gauge cable from West Marine (by the foot, not cheap, but high quality), HD lugs from DelCity.net, and a crimper like this one: https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CAYQK007010-Hydraulic-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B0114QC3OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541563190&sr=8-1&keywords=yqk-70. I actually got my crimper on eBay. They're available from a number of sources. Just search for YQK70. Don't be fooled by the low price. I found they work quite well. Do suggest getting a few extra lugs and practice a little. I use triple wall shrink sleeve over the large crimped connections. Also from DelCity.net.

[mlewis]

Excellent feedback Paul. Much appreciated.

I did see that crimper on Amazon, but was a bit concerned about quality. Your endorsement is all I need.

Will check West Marine and already filled a cart at DelCity.

Thanks again,

Mark

[JohnK]

I use 2 gauge cable from West Marine (by the foot, not cheap, but high quality), HD lugs from DelCity.net, and a crimper like this one: https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CAYQK007010-Hydraulic-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B0114QC3OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541563190&sr=8-1&keywords=yqk-70. I actually got my crimper on eBay. They're available from a number of sources. Just search for YQK70. Don't be fooled by the low price. I found they work quite well. Do suggest getting a few extra lugs and practice a little. I use triple wall shrink sleeve over the large crimped connections. Also from DelCity.net.

I'm curious about your thoughts on crimping large lugs like these vs using solder slugs. The solder slug approach for lugs seems pretty foolproof - certainly less technique-critical than properly soldering regular wire. I'm wondering why you'd crimp instead?

[edwardb]

I'm curious about your thoughts on crimping large lugs like these vs using solder slugs. The solder slug approach for lugs seems pretty foolproof - certainly less technique-critical than properly soldering regular wire. I'm wondering why you'd crimp instead?

When building #8674, since I decided to use #2 cable plus my wiring approach with the Coyote required a number of large gauge cables, tried three approaches: (1) Fusion ready to use solder/flux lugs, (2) Lugs with solder slugs, (3) Crimped lugs using the surprisingly low priced hydraulic YQK70 crimper. I found I could get very reliable results with the crimper. Did some practice and testing, including sawing some crimps checking the cross section. Was basically solid copper and very solid. And the lugs themselves are pretty economical. Guess there's a reason that's the most common approach with OE manufacturers. I wasn't as happy with the solder slug approach. The Fusion pieces work really well, and use them all the time for battery ends. But for the rest a little pricey plus the good result with crimping.