Recessed covers for under dash access under hood?

[Svtfreak]

Has anyone recessed the aluminum covers for access? I am putting both sides on to access both brake and heater/ac stuff and for symmetry. I am thinking about recessing them to sit flush. Has anyone done this? I am thinking of making a fitting for my dremel to use it like a router to control depth unless a anyone has a better idea. I'll then add a couple layers of glass behind and put rivnuts and counter sunk bolts to hold it down.

I'm open to suggestions on accomplishing this before I attempt it if anyone has another idea.

[JOP33]

What if you layered two pieces of aluminum, the first the same thickness as the cowl and the second could be .063". It would basically give you the same appearance of being flush but it would be inset. The bottom layer should only be large enough to hold the rivnuts you use as the piece will need to "drop" down to pull out. I think it would save you some glass work and I hate glass work...my $0.02.

[Svtfreak]

Ooo I like this idea a whole lot. Might have to see about making it work. Only issue would be forming the thicker stuff to close to the right shape.

Thanks!

[JOP33]

Ooo I like this idea a whole lot. Might have to see about making it work. Only issue would be forming the thicker stuff to close to the right shape.

Thanks!

What if you use the piece you cut out of the cowl for access as your template for the thicker material, then just trace that template again at a 1/2" (or so) offset for your larger, thinner piece.

[Svtfreak]

That would work but forming the slight curve is the hard part.

I'm going to have to consider this close. It coming out from underneath may not be very easy to manipulate in and out of position. But I think the idea may very well be a great starting point

[NAZ]

Have you thought about access covers installed in the dash? I cut out a large access panel that my gauges are mounted to and formed an aluminum cover painted to match the dash. This access cover mounts the RacePak gauge panel and is held in place by two 10-32 button heads making the gauge panel easily removable and providing a good bit of working access behind the dash. The gauges are wired with quick disconnects (plugs & sockets). If you're using conventional steam gauges (round dial) you just have to make the panel a bit larger than mine but still very easy to do.

For even more access I cut the complete face of my dash so it can easily be removed. The cut line goes across the top of the dash (glare shield) and is held in place by 1/4-turn fasteners. With the dash face removed there is complete unobstructed access to everything behind the dash. If I ever wanted to add A/C it would be as easy as if the body were removed -- there's that much access.

[HVACMAN]

Have you thought about access covers installed in the dash? I cut out a large access panel that my gauges are mounted to and formed an aluminum cover painted to match the dash. This access cover mounts the RacePak gauge panel and is held in place by two 10-32 button heads making the gauge panel easily removable and providing a good bit of working access behind the dash. The gauges are wired with quick disconnects (plugs & sockets). If you're using conventional steam gauges (round dial) you just have to make the panel a bit larger than mine but still very easy to do.

For even more access I cut the complete face of my dash so it can easily be removed. The cut line goes across the top of the dash (glare shield) and is held in place by 1/4-turn fasteners. With the dash face removed there is complete unobstructed access to everything behind the dash. If I ever wanted to add A/C it would be as easy as if the body were removed -- there's that much access.

I am planning the same thing NAZ, with one of Tim Whitaker's dash panels. I am also thinking of finishing it with carbon fiber veneer. I want full access to everything behind the dash without removing the body.

[Svtfreak]

Naz, I considered same thing with Tim's dash. But I want a painted dash as clean as possible. That plan, over the months, got changed.

While talking it over the home made router with dremel idea with my sr tech (a good old country boy who is pretty mechanical), my other sr tech says "I have one of those". Yep. Apparently dremel makes a router attachment that is exactly what I was thinking of trying to make. I'll be able to control depth to recess it from the front. He's gonna bring it to me next week to try.

[AJT '33]

Naz, I considered same thing with Tim's dash. But I want a painted dash as clean as possible. That plan, over the months, got changed.

While talking it over the home made router with dremel idea with my sr tech (a good old country boy who is pretty mechanical), my other sr tech says "I have one of those". Yep. Apparently dremel makes a router attachment that is exactly what I was thinking of trying to make. I'll be able to control depth to recess it from the front. He's gonna bring it to me next week to try.

One suggestion, don't cut the hole until you have marked and drilled your bolt hole locations, I made the mistake and the 10/32 Rivnuts I used ended up being off the cut edge. not a biggie as I backed them up with 1/4" SS washers that i drilled out to match the Rivnut, but it could have looked better if i would have thought of that before hand. Wont do cuts late at night again. Regardless its covered once the plate is on it. As well I'm using the cover to allow my windshield washer sprayers (needed by the local authorities) sneak up under it and sit in the gap of the hood and the body as there is space there for that.
96345 I'll get a better shot of it and post it tonight or this weekend.

[Svtfreak]

Thanks, Naz. But they are already cut lol. However, I will be using smaller hardware than you did. And a couple more of them.