Wilwood Brake Fit Up Issue

[Shoeless]

Hey guys,

I've been working on my brake setup for a bit and found an issue today. It seems the back side of my rotor is rubbing on the lower control arm and would likely explain the issue I thought I had with my ebrake setup. I have the ZR1 hubs and measured the drop to the spindle and compared those to the stock hubs and they match. I'm at a loss on the possible cause of this, and what I should do to fix it. Anyone else see this before?

I'm going to throw this up on both sites to see what kind of response I can get.

https://i.imgur.com/3qedbQy.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/C8rQvPb.jpg

[kabacj]

Hi Shoeless

Two ways I solved this. One grind off the casting parting line a little so it’s smooth. You remove a few tenths of an inch. Then you need to shim the hub off the upright. I made a template from cardboard and cut a shim from aluminum sheet.
It should make contact full contact with the hub flat and the upright.

This way you have the same contact area between the hub and upright for heat transfer and support but gain a little clearance.

Many miles of racing prove this solution works.

Hope that helps.

John

[Shoeless]

Hi Shoeless

Two ways I solved this. One grind off the casting parting line a little so it’s smooth. You remove a few tenths of an inch. Then you need to shim the hub off the upright. I made a template from cardboard and cut a shim from aluminum sheet.
It should make contact full contact with the hub flat and the upright.

This way you have the same contact area between the hub and upright for heat transfer and support but gain a little clearance.

Many miles of racing prove this solution works.

Hope that helps.

John

Sounds like a solid approach to me. I'm going to head out to the garage and see how much clearance I can get grinding a little of the control arm off and I'll go from there.

Do you remember the thickness of aluminum sheet you went with? I think I still have some 0.040 laying around from remaking a couple panels.

[kabacj]

Sounds like a solid approach to me. I'm going to head out to the garage and see how much clearance I can get grinding a little of the control arm off and I'll go from there.

Do you remember the thickness of aluminum sheet you went with? I think I still have some 0.040 laying around from remaking a couple panels.


I am using stoptech full floating rotors so my clearance may not be the same as yours. My rotors did rub the same way however.

I had the rotors made without springs between the buttons and the hat/ rotor. This allows for the most frictionless float but also allows for more misalignment.

I measured the max deflection by pushing the rotor toward the lower control arm and shimed it away till it didn’t hit after removing the casting marks. Then found aluminum laying around that was the correct thickness.

No problems since then.

[Shoeless]

I am using stoptech full floating rotors so my clearance may not be the same as yours. My rotors did rub the same way however.

I had the rotors made without springs between the buttons and the hat/ rotor. This allows for the most frictionless float but also allows for more misalignment.

I measured the max deflection by pushing the rotor toward the lower control arm and shimed it away till it didn’t hit after removing the casting marks. Then found aluminum laying around that was the correct thickness.

No problems since then.

Excellent, thank you Sir!!!

[crash]

Before you get to aggressive with the grinder I think you should consider shimming the rotor out some.

[Shoeless]

Before you get to aggressive with the grinder I think you should consider shimming the rotor out some.

I'm still kicking around the idea of shimming out the hub as mentioned above. I have some extra aluminum around from when I remade some panels that I didn't like the fitment from FF.