PS brake line leak stands between me and go-karting

[Al_C]

Over the course of my build, I have learned a lot. In some areas, I feel pretty confident. In others, not so much. One of those areas is brakes. Prior to this build, I never changed a pad, never bled a brake line, never did anything other than step on the pedal. That’s why I could use your help.

Here’s a photo of the PS front brake connection between the hard line and the connector to the flexible lines. For what it’s worth, I have the Wilwood brakes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94658&d=1538666662

It leaks. Not a lot, but it leaks. It used to leak a lot more, but I redid the flare. Still leaks. It weeps if left alone; it leaks when you step on the pedal. Previously, I undid the hard line, bent the line out a little so I could get the flaring tool on the hard line, and attempted to re-do the double flare. It’s better, but obviously not fixed. I have the OTC flaring tool – the same one they use at Build School.

As I see it, I have three options:
a) Either re-do the existing flare, or chop ½ inch off and make a new flare on the existing hardline, hopefully getting a better flare
b) Splicing in a new “short” piece of hardline (that would result in doing three flares)
c) Making a completely new front brake line from the DS junction to the PS front wheel.

I’d like to take option a, because that involves only one flare and no replacement of lines in (now) hard to reach spots. My concern here is the bend in the line. Can I unbend and re-bend the hardline (so I can get the tool on the end) without messing the whole thing up?

Now that you’ve hung in this long, you get to offer your opinion! Do you think I can fix the flare I have, or maybe cut a little off and do a new one? Can I unbend and bend that line again without it getting damaged beyond use? Or do I take a different path? Thanks for your input!

[frankb]

You may consider replacing the adapter fitting before re-doing the flare (again). A really small scratch or nick in the fitting can cause the leak you are describing...

[DadofThree]

I ran into a similar problem, and it was because I couldn't make a good flare. Mine leaked after trying to reflare again and again. I finally decided to purchase pre flared lines from the local autopart store. They come in different lengths, and are similar in color to what you have in the photo. I chalked it up to "too important to get wrong" and purchased the preflared. Hadn't had a leak again.

[chuckster]

Over the course of my build, I have learned a lot. In some areas, I feel pretty confident. In others, not so much. One of those areas is brakes. Prior to this build, I never changed a pad, never bled a brake line, never did anything other than step on the pedal. That’s why I could use your help.

Here’s a photo of the PS front brake connection between the hard line and the connector to the flexible lines. For what it’s worth, I have the Wilwood brakes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94658&d=1538666662

It leaks. Not a lot, but it leaks. It used to leak a lot more, but I redid the flare. Still leaks. It weeps if left alone; it leaks when you step on the pedal. Previously, I undid the hard line, bent the line out a little so I could get the flaring tool on the hard line, and attempted to re-do the double flare. It’s better, but obviously not fixed. I have the OTC flaring tool – the same one they use at Build School.

As I see it, I have three options:
a) Either re-do the existing flare, or chop ½ inch off and make a new flare on the existing hardline, hopefully getting a better flare
b) Splicing in a new “short” piece of hardline (that would result in doing three flares)
c) Making a completely new front brake line from the DS junction to the PS front wheel.

I’d like to take option a, because that involves only one flare and no replacement of lines in (now) hard to reach spots. My concern here is the bend in the line. Can I unbend and re-bend the hardline (so I can get the tool on the end) without messing the whole thing up?

Now that you’ve hung in this long, you get to offer your opinion! Do you think I can fix the flare I have, or maybe cut a little off and do a new one? Can I unbend and bend that line again without it getting damaged beyond use? Or do I take a different path? Thanks for your input!

I had several leaks in my braking system and was quite despondent. When I talked to my oldest friend who is the best mechanic I've ever met, he said that I should "tighten as tighten as much as you dare, then give it another 1/8" of a turn." The theory is that if you break it, you were going to replace it anyway And you've really got to tighten the snot out of brake fittings . You should only do this using flare wrenches of course. Just my $.02

[Al_C]

I had several leaks in my braking system and was quite despondent. When I talked to my oldest friend who is the best mechanic I've ever met, he said that I should "tighten as tighten as much as you dare, then give it another 1/8" of a turn." The theory is that if you break it, you were going to replace it anyway And you've really got to tighten the snot out of brake fittings . You should only do this using flare wrenches of course. Just my $.02

This was the approach I took before I 're-flared'. In my case, it didn't work. Maybe doing so screwed up the adapter, as Frankb suggests...

[edwardb]

X2 on maybe the adapter. First thing I thought of after reading your post. Replace it. For the brake line, I'd recommend a new flare since that one's been used and had issues. I would never recommend adding a union and increasing the number of joints. I'm also not a big fan of bending and re-bending brake line. Especially since in this case sounds you have already. That line is cheap. Start fresh and new. When you assemble it, wet the flare with brake fluid and crank on it pretty hard. That helps them seat together

[Avalanche325]

As everyone is saying, there are two parts to the coupling. There is a chance that the adapter is the issue. There is a chance that there is a piece of something in there like a burr from the flared line, or just a scratch.

Do not unbend and re-bend the lines. Make a new one.

[CraigS]

First, like Chuckster's friend says, tighten the crap out of it. If that doesn't fix it, I would get a new adapter and a new line. I would change to a NiCopp line. A little more $ but autozone and advance ( I do mean it's just a little more) usually have them on hand so no problem finding them. The advantage is that NiCopp is softer so any 'getting friendly with each other' that the line and the adapter need to do is a lot easier. Also, although I prefer to use factory made flares if I can, if you need to flare the NiCopp you will immediately notice it is softer so better chance of making a good flare.

[rich grsc]

You can not re-flare a bad flare. A new line is the best, oh and get rid of the curly-cues.

[Al_C]

Well, it certainly looks like a consensus! I already ordered the new adapter and I'll pick up a new line tomorrow. Guess what I'm doing this weekend! :)

[chmhasy]

This is the flaring tool that I used. I was very pleased with the results of it

https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-165-Master-Flaring/dp/B00AOTBVJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538702734&sr=8-3&keywords=cal+van

[davekp]

You can not re-flare a bad flare. A new line is the best, oh and get rid of the curly-cues.

Yes, why all the loops in the line?

[Al_C]

Yes, why all the loops in the line?

Great question. Never understood that either. This is what we did in build school.

[edwardb]

Yes, why all the loops in the line?

This has been discussed (debated...) some in the past. Often it's just a way to take up the extra tubing for guys that choose to use lines with pre-made flares vs. making their own. Free editorial comment: Understandable, but with the right tools flares are nothing to be afraid of. Others cite vibration concerns. That would be an issue if you were going from a rigid frame to, for example, a master cylinder mounted on a flex mounted body. As was often the case in the past when many DD's were body on frame. But for our builds, everything is attached to the rigid chassis so it's not necessary. Another reason often cited is for maintenance. Easier to get the connection on/off. True enough, but that can be done without a bunch of loops.

[Tony_G]

This little flaring tool makes great flares. I highly recommend it. It's cheep and easy to use. It can be put in a vise to hold it or has a handle you can flare on the car.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&msclkid=0684e0a9dd951b949cacbb1ebd0d931c

[rich grsc]

This little flaring tool makes great flares. I highly recommend it. It's cheep and easy to use. It can be put in a vise to hold it or has a handle you can flare on the car.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&msclkid=0684e0a9dd951b949cacbb1ebd0d931c

Good find Tony! Now I know where to borrow one. :rolleyes:

[Ray]

Get them as tight as you can.....then do this..................94677

Ray

PS: Of course I'm just kidding.

[FFR9375]

Had similar leaks with several different flaring tools. Purchased an Eastwood (https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html) flaring tool, and have not had a single leak since. It happens to be on sale right now.