#30 drill bits

[chjort]

I'm sure somebody has already done the research for this. Where's the cheapest place to buy #30 drill bits in bulk? I'm guessing Amazon, but maybe there's somewhere else that has them cheaper.

[NAZ]

Amazon is not a bad place to buy drill bits from but be a knowledgeable purchaser. I usually get my cutting tools from MSC as I can get good quality tools at reasonable prices. Cutting tools are a good example of "you get what you pay for". The cheap Chinese cutting tools are attractively priced but I've never found them to last like the quality stuff. Also, the drill point makes a difference. For general purpose use in mild steel and aluminum (95% of my fabrication use) I like the 118-degree point. I save the 135-deg points for harder metals and then I will use cobalt or carbide drills for this material. TiN coatings may improve life in abrasive materials but I'm not convinced they are worth the extra $$ for what I do.

[slpro1207]

I get mine at Aircraft Spruce. Parts and tools made for use on aircraft. Great quality. Made in USA. Bits seem to last longer.

[shark92651]

I bought these double-headed bits from Amazon. They aren't high quality, but fine for drilling the aluminum panels and steel tubing. When one side wears out, flip it over and keep going, when that side wears out, toss it and grab a new one. You basically get 24 bits for about $0.68 each.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BRGLWOY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[cv2065]

I used these. Worked great. Split point so it reduces walking.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0054E80M2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

[Papa]

I also used these:

https://www.amazon.com/Air-Capital-Drill-Stop-Set/dp/B0046ASHIW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537129668&sr=8-4&keywords=drill+bit+spring+depth+stop

They help a lot to prevent breaking a bit and keep the drill chuck from gouging the metal you are drilling into.

[CDXXVII]

These seem to be pretty good quality. Cobalt Dewalt

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DeWalt-DD4330B12-30-Cobalt-Screw-Machine-Drill-Bits-12-Germany/250908814926?epid=1054394853&hash=item3a6b54ae4e:g:1LQAAOSwzqFY-SdQ

[Boydster]

I bought mine from Aircraft Spruce too. Only broke 1 and wore out 1 in all the drilling on the car, and I'm almost done.

[dhuff]

Use cutting oil and they last longer ��

[jrcuz]

Aircraft spruce here. I also use a Drill Dr. To keep them sharp.
JR

[initiator]

Definitely use cutting oil on the steel holes, but not needed for Aluminum.

[edwardb]

Also used #30 and #10 (.1935 for 3/16 rivets) from Aircraft Spruce. Decent quality and price. Bought 12 #30's and 3 #10's for #8674, and had enough left to do the Gen 3 Coupe drilling. Only broke a couple. Mainly they just eventually get dull and I don't have a sharpener. Need to look into that sometime. The main reason they break, in my experience, is drilling into or near welds. Often snaps 'em right off. Something to watch for when you're laying out your rivet locations.

[mlewis]

ditto on Aircraft Spruce.

[Dave Howard]

Kept it simple. 1/8" and 3/16" bits from Canadian Tire. Stuff comes on sale all the time at 50-75% off and seemed to work OK. Still together nice and tight and looking pretty after 41,000 kilometers.

[Avalanche325]

I did an order from some small guy in Colorado when I got my Clecos. I meant to order 10 bits, but just ordered 1 by mistake. I got WAY over half way through my build with that one bit. It got to the point that I was on a mission to do it with one bit. I drilled through a panel and hit the round 4" tube and broke it. I went through about 20 bits for the 2nd half from other places.

I found it - http://www.cokid.com/

[Mark Reynolds]

Buying the cheapest bit in bulk is false economy.
You will waste time on every hole which will take longer due to poor cutting action of inferior bits.
See above where some did a whole car with just 2 or 3 quality bits.
I kept a tuna can with some oil in it and dip bit in it to improve the cutting and bit life.
1/8" bit is .125"
#30 is .1285" and is the recommended size for nominal 1/8" rivets.
Using a 1/8" bit can work in a pinch but it will cause the aluminum rivet to be difficult to install in the hole. (multiply that frustration times the number of holes)
Breeze has them and you can order any quantity though we recommend buying only 3 - 4 per car:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/drill-bit-30-usa/
If all you need is drill bits it is hard to compete with Amazon but of the above the Dewalt 12-pack made it Germany looks like a good deal (if they are really made in Germany) and you can pay the extra 8 bits forward to your next roadster friend.

[KenWilkinson]

I'm going to try this paste: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OAF8CI/?coliid=I327EIL0BJKXI5&colid=IZARI288THN&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I believe that a paste will stay on longer and even if it heats up will run into the cutting zone to cool and lubricate.

Anyone have any experience with this product?

[Fixit]

I don't know what you guys are doing, but I'm on rivet hole number 247,863 on 1/8" drill bit three. (Yes, 3).
Bit 1 & 2 broke when I wasn't paying attention, broke through, and smacked the other side of the frame tube.

I'm using 1/8" and 3/16, generic/hardware store, black oxide bits, a variable speed DeWalt cordless drill motor, with no cutting oil/fluid/paste.
(We're only drilling through .200" of material here... with a sharp bit there isn't time for it to get hot)

It's all about speed and feed guys!
- Start out slow to get the point to cut, then increase speed & pressure to where you're getting a good chip coming off - hold that thought/setting.
- After hole #5895 you'll get a feel where the bit is about to break through - ease off the pressure, but not the speed - the bit will finish the hole without grabbing/pulling.
- Once broken through, give the drill a little "wobble" to egg out the hole a bit - this will give you the .0035 thousanths of a #30 (no need for special/numeric bits)

After I've drilled the holes in a panel, I'll take a 45deg countersink and by hand give it a twirl in the hole(s) to break the burr. Done.

(Confession: I do have a "Drill Doctor". It has paid for itself in the 2 years I've had it. If you touch a drill to something and it's not cutting immediately it is DULL. All you are doing is making heat. Less than 2 minutes with the Doctor and I've got a brand new, split point drill bit.)

[Jetfuel]

Yardstore..
https://www.yardstore.com/drilling-and-cutting/drill-bits/cobalt-threaded-bits
The stubby last forever and with several length adapters they fit the tightest places

[dhuff]

I am using black oxide 1/8" & 3/16" bits with cutting oil, very low replacement rate. When I realized that the cleco's do a good job of holding the pieces together, but they do a lousy job of keeping things lined up, i started inserting a rivet (inserted not installed) it keep things lined up and then installing the rivets when ready went very well.

[edwardb]

When I realized that the cleco's do a good job of holding the pieces together, but they do a lousy job of keeping things lined up... I'm a little surprised to hear that. My experience is just the opposite. I find they wedge into the hole and keep the piece perfectly centered on the holes. I also use a lot of them. So maybe that helps. Keep in mind these came from the aviation industry where perfect alignment is essential.

[Jeff Kleiner]

A black oxide #30 with an occasional pass on the Drill Doctor will cut clean and fast and last almost indefinitely.

Jeff

[rich grsc]

You need more than 2 or 3 drill bits, you don't know how to use a drill. :rolleyes:

[SSNK4US]

You need more than 2 or 3 drill bits, you don't know how to use a drill. :rolleyes:

lol true...
But don’t forget that there are people out here starting these builds that have limited or maybe even no experience with things like that and need our help or guidance. I started drilling things 50 years ago... some others maybe 2 weeks ago...

Kurt

[Chris @ Forma]

We use 135 degree split point cobalt drills. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/78546652 Seem expensive, however, we typically only use one or two per build. We use screw machine length (sometimes called stub length). The shorter length makes it easier to apply only axial pressure and not to apply any bending to the drill (the reason they break). Hope this helps.

Chris