Top Pillow Block Mounting Question

[cv2065]

Thought I would breeze through steering portion of the build but seems I have more questions than other areas.

So, I've mounted my top pillow block and the elevation seems too low for the steering shaft to rotate. I've looked at other build threads and no one has this type of pillow block mount which extends out from the frame. Everyone else's is more or less mounted right to the frame which elevates the pillow block to the proper level.

Here's my pillow block mount:

9287292873

Here's a picture of the pillow block mount from Papa's build thread which is far more flush to the tubing:

92874

Am I missing something here or are there spacers that need to be put into place?

Thanks again for the help.

[michael everson]

Yours is the latest style. Yes You may need to space it up until it is no longer touching. FFR should supply spacers. Not all of them do it. accumulated tolerances.
Mike

[cv2065]

Yours is the latest style. Yes You may need to space it up until it is no longer touching. FFR should supply spacers. Not all of them do it. accumulated tolerances.
Mike

Thanks Mike. I didn't see any spacers from FFR. Can I use just regular hardened washers? Not sure how exact it has to be in order to flow through the dash hole. I'm thinking just enough to clear rotation.

[SSNK4US]

Great... something new I’m gonna have to look forward to LOL!

[cv2065]

Great... something new I’m gonna have to look forward to LOL!

LOL...No doubt. And don't forget to the lube up the upper shaft REAL GOOD when you are inserting it into the lower shaft. Man this thing is like a press fit...doesn't even need those domed washers. The video makes it look like butter, but it's the opposite. There's no 'tapping' in...I was the ape from 2001 A Space Odyssey today.

[Fixit]

Hey... me again...

Yup. I had the same problem, the upper shaft made contact with the 2x2 cross-tube. All's it took was a standard 5/16" washer under the pillow block to get the 1/16" clearance.
(I'm not locking anything down until I get my turn signal setup from Russ. He's had to make some changes to his kit to accommodate the footbox changes)

[Fixit]

Something ain't right with your upper/lower steering shaft... It shouldn't take brute force to get them to slide together. It's supposed to be collapsible on an impact. (Some guys have had to install small set screws to "snug up" the slight slop in the fit)

Mine was a tight slip fit (with a little chassis grease on it) using the Belleville washers. You may have a burr on the female end. Take a look and gently file the opening of the hole.

[Railroad]

I had to use 3 flat washers under each side. I started with 1, but did not do the job.

[cv2065]

Something ain't right with your upper/lower steering shaft... It shouldn't take brute force to get them to slide together. It's supposed to be collapsible on an impact. (Some guys have had to install small set screws to "snug up" the slight slop in the fit)

Mine was a tight slip fit (with a little chassis grease on it) using the Belleville washers. You may have a burr on the female end. Take a look and gently file the opening of the hole.

Yeah, not sure John. The fitting was smooth on both ends. I did not lube mine from get go and maybe was the issue, as I sprayed some Liquid Wrench in the crevice about half way through and seemed to go in easier. Still very tight though. I don’t think that I could get it out at this point if I needed to. Would have to remove the entire assembly.

[Fixit]

Ok... literally 5 minutes ago Mrs. Fixit came into the shop with "More Car Toys!"

My Russ Thompson turn signal & dropped trunk kit just arrived.
Don't give a moment's thought about steering shaft contact. There's some rework involved to mount the turn signal system, and the pillow block is relocated in the process.

(throw a couple of washers under it for now)

Fix the fit problem of the steering shaft.

[cv2065]

Ok... literally 5 minutes ago Mrs. Fixit came into the shop with "More Car Toys!"

My Russ Thompson turn signal & dropped trunk kit just arrived.
Don't give a moment's thought about steering shaft contact. There's some rework involved to mount the turn signal system, and the pillow block is relocated in the process.

(throw a couple of washers under it for now)

Fix the fit problem of the steering shaft.

Good to hear on the pillow block! On the shaft, that baby is in there good. Aside from trying to get more oil in the fitting and seeing if it will loosen up a bit, not really much leverage to pull that shaft out. Any ideas?

[Fixit]

About the only thing that comes to mind is some sort of slide-hammer/dent puller. You may be able to make something from a length of threaded rod and a weight with a hole in it.

You'll have to find some way to thread it way into the steering shaft and then smack/smack/smack and hope it pulls out.

[cv2065]

About the only thing that comes to mind is some sort of slide-hammer/dent puller. You may be able to make something from a length of threaded rod and a weight with a hole in it.

You'll have to find some way to thread it way into the steering shaft and then smack/smack/smack and hope it pulls out.

Looks like I'll have to refer to FFR on this one. Maybe ask for a replacement. I've tried everything and can't get this thing to budge. Man, I was on a roll today too...spent too much time on this thing.

[Railroad]

My steering column shaft is very tight also. I lubed it up and still very tight. I dressed the inner shaft with a 1" belt sander and lubed it with anti seize. Still a tight fit. I drilled and taped the outer column shaft for set screws. On getting your shaft out, get a large thick washer and put under the steering hub bolt, installed on the inner shaft. Use the largest wrench you can, that will not pass over the washer. With the wrench on the lower side of the washer, start hitting the wrench watching for the inner shaft to move out.
I had to do this, but had lube on the shaft and did not have too difficulty.

[cv2065]

My steering column shaft is very tight also. I lubed it up and still very tight. I dressed the inner shaft with a 1" belt sander and lubed it with anti seize. Still a tight fit. I drilled and taped the outer column shaft for set screws. On getting your shaft out, get a large thick washer and put under the steering hub bolt, installed on the inner shaft. Use the largest wrench you can, that will not pass over the washer. With the wrench on the lower side of the washer, start hitting the wrench watching for the inner shaft to move out.
I had to do this, but had lube on the shaft and did not have too difficulty.

Thanks for the advice! Do you have a picture of where you place the washer? When you say the steering hub bolt, do you mean the bolt that holds the steering boss on?

[TexasAviator]

I had some 1/4 steel washers from other projects that I used, so its flush and looks purposeful. You can just shim it up, it will be good. I have to say my car is only a year old and my steering bracket looks tighter to the tubing like PAPA. You have some new iteration of mounting for the bearing. MKIV v.2.0 LOL

[Railroad]

Did not take any pictures. The end of the inner steering column shaft on the steering wheel end is threaded. Find the allen head bolt that fits it or other hex head bolt that will thread full length into the shaft. Find a large washer that will fit the bolt. Place a large box end wrench over the steering shaft, put the bolt and washer on the end of the shaft. If your washer is large enough you should have the box end wrench captured. Clock the wrench where you can hit it with a hammer, driving the wrench toward the washer. If the inner shaft will come out, this will do it. The lower shaft will need to be attached to the steering rack.

[cv2065]

Did not take any pictures. The end of the inner steering column shaft on the steering wheel end is threaded. Find the allen head bolt that fits it or other hex head bolt that will thread full length into the shaft. Find a large washer that will fit the bolt. Place a large box end wrench over the steering shaft, put the bolt and washer on the end of the shaft. If your washer is large enough you should have the box end wrench captured. Clock the wrench where you can hit it with a hammer, driving the wrench toward the washer. If the inner shaft will come out, this will do it. The lower shaft will need to be attached to the steering rack.

I can picture it now. I've already removed the shaft from the rack, but will give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion.

[BadAsp427]

I just went back out to the garage and took this photo of mine. I have turned it lock to lock many times and never even noticed this. Thought I would share for comparison. I did not get the best angle, but I would say I have 1/16th of an inch clearance.
92926

[edwardb]

Agree you need to do what's necessary to get that steering column apart. Safety issue (e.g. is intended to be a collapsing column) plus when you get your dash, turn signal assembly (if used) and steering wheel boss all together, the location of that inner piece determines your proper steering wheel location. Pretty safe bet the inner piece isn't in the right location at this time and you'll have other fitment issues down the road. Deal with it now.

Just a piece of advice. Put the big hammers away. If something isn't fitting with "reasonable force" stop and figure out what's wrong. I can't think of much of anything that needs that kind of force during one of those builds.

Also, X4 or whatever on you're kit has the re-designed upper pillow block mount, resulting in among other things the redesigned turn signal assembly from Russ Thompson. You should have received some small spacers to go under the pillow block to lift it so the steering column clears everything. If not a washer or two on each side should get the job done. Hardened washers wouldn't hurt but not sure are necessary.

[mike223]

Just a piece of advice. Put the big hammers away. If something isn't fitting with "reasonable force" stop and figure out what's wrong. I can't think of much of anything that needs that kind of force during one of those builds.



+1, especially the part about putting away the big hammers...


Regarding fit of the steering column:

I had to thoroughly clean + lube the inside hollow 3/4" (outer tube) with a shotgun cleaning rod - I would not hesitate to work on polishing either surface with sandcloth (as needed).

Even then, my inner shaft only slides "nice" in one orientation - turn it around 180 degrees and it's a complete bear to get in or out.


I would hesitate to call that design a "collapsing column" for two reasons:

1- I don't think the pillow block bearing + mount are sturdy enough to reliably collapse the assembly.

2- The length of the inner shaft and outer shaft leave precious little room for collapse (very close to end of travel as assembled).


I would suggest it's made that way for "ease of assembly" / "standard practice assembly" not as a safety feature of "collapsing column".


JMHO,

Mike

[Railroad]

I guess someone with an over active imagination envisioned a BIG HAMMER.
Maybe this will help, tap, tap, tap.
I do agree with mike223 on the description of collapsing.

[cv2065]

I guess someone with an over active imagination envisioned a BIG HAMMER.
Maybe this will help, tap, tap, tap.
I do agree with mike223 on the description of collapsing.

It was more 'effort' versus a big hammer to get it in....More plastic dead blow speed, but it was certainly more than a tap tap tap. The real issue is not being able to get it out again for adjustment, etc. I've read in other threads that this is more of a quality control from the supplier, as some are very loose, and some are just as difficult as mine where it had to be replaced. If you are lucky, you get one somewhere in the middle. As has been said, nothing should take this much effort in the kit, so I'll talk to FFR tomorrow and see if I can get a replacement.

I will also ask about an FFR supplied spacer for this new pillow block mount as there was not one in the kit.

[mike223]

It was more 'effort' versus a big hammer to get it in....More dead blow speed, but it was certainly more than a tap tap tap.



lol - as long as we're getting into the variations of peck peck peck / tap tap tap / BAM BAM BAM...

Typically, anything (everything) I've run into that requires "peck peck peck" to assemble usually require "BAM BAM BAM, DAM, BAM BAM BAM (repeat until complete)" to disassemble (at a minimum).

Therefore I really avoid assembling things using a hammer for assistance.

But there's a time and place for everything - including hammers - just not on this particular piece (except of course for the forthcoming disassembly - BAM BAM BAM)...

[Fixit]

I will also ask about an FFR supplied spacer for this new pillow block mount as there was not one in the kit.

You won't need it with the new version of RT's turn signals. His mounting provision moves the pillow block up about 1/8".

[cv2065]

You won't need it with the new version of RT's turn signals. His mounting provision moves the pillow block up about 1/8".

Good to know. Thanks John!

[rich grsc]

FFR supplies spacers, they are called WASHERS.

[cv2065]

FFR supplies spacers, they are called WASHERS.

LOL...Got it!

[cv2065]

Looks like FFR is sending me a replacement upper and lower steering shaft. The Factory Five Customer Service is second to none!!!