Fiberglass Trans Tunnel

[JOP33]

How are most of you attaching the fiberglass trans tunnel to the chassis? I assume you want to be able to remove this if the need arises, so are you using screws and rivnuts and if so are you installing them in the fiberglass and then placing screws in from the bottom or just putting the rivnuts into the top surfaces of the chassis tubing?

Thanks

[JimLev]

I'll be using 10x32 screws and rivnuts in the chassis as well as insulation on the inside of tunnel.

[Svtfreak]

I have screws from the front at firewall into rivnuts and then using 1/8” rivets along each side to floor. The top is currently held on with rivets, but the final form will probably be glasses on. Then, it’ll be insulated on top upom final assembly.

[CVOBill]

I used stainless button head bolts at the firewall and rivets to the floor. After you install sound deadener, insulation and carpet it will be a bear to remove in my opinion.

[JOP33]

Thanks for all the input!

[TomH33]

My tunnel was the 2 piece so I glassed it back to one piece. I have no wires going through the tunnel so I made it removable. I used #10 button top sheetmetal screws into the top frame, firewall and used # 10-32 button head allens with lock nuts for the bottom of the tunnel. I should be able to remove the tunnel in about 1/2 hour.

TomH33

[NAZ]

I've had my engine / trans in and out at least half-dozen times and it's so much easier when the doghouse is removed. And if you have an auto trans remember there are serviceable items on the trans that will be hard to access if that cover is not removable.