Carl's 20th Anniversary #8690 - Graduated... 15,000 miles

[BadAsp427]

Hello All, So I figured I better get this thread started before I get really into it and get behind!!!

So, if you've seen any of my previous posts, I had ordered a roadster from FF and was anxiously awaiting Sep 15th to get here as that was the expected kit completion date. On the same day that I placed that order, I also contacted Blueprint Engines and ordered my 347ci Carb motor and transmission. Blueprint also gave me a date of Sept 15th as their completion date. So, the "big" orders are done and out of the way, now I have 45 days +/- to get my garage ready. The preparation of my garage is documented on a couple of my other threads. Then, a post popped up on Facebook on the Factory Five Cars Rule page that 20th Anniversary MK4 was available and since the decision to get a roadster was done, it only became a matter of do I want to stick with my current order that included every upgrade except wilwood, that FF had to offer at 50% off .... or .... go with the 20th Anniversary option. My decision was difficult as the 20th was actually going to cost me about $3k more than my maxed out order at FF. I spent nearly an hour on the phone with FF discussing the actual order that delivered the 20th to it's original owner and comparing what I would be or not be getting. The list was short... I would not be getting the 2nd roll bar, power steering, trunk opening hinges & brake duct screen. But I would be gaining the 20th Kit... Decision made, and on 8/18/18 I traveled with truck and trailer to Raleigh NC, about 275 miles and picked up my #8690 Asp... number 8 of the 20, 20th Anniversary kits sold 3 years ago.

My build plans are as follows,

Mk4 with all the 20th Anniversary Kit Upgrades : Learn More Here (https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/day-19-of-20-20th-anniversary-mk4-roadster-revealed/)

347ci Carberated Blueprint Motor with TKO 600 Transmission: Learn More Here (https://factoryfiveengines.com/blueprint-engines-factory-five-engines/blueprint-engines-mk4-roadster-engines/blueprint-engines-ford-347-carbureted-mk4)

Heater/Defroster option


Modification I'm Planning Currently (Of course I'm always seeing other cool thing and this list may change)
- Drop Trunk :rolleyes:
- EPAS Electric Power Steering :rolleyes:
- Cubby Hole between seats :rolleyes:
- Drop Battery in trunk area :rolleyes:
- Heated Seats :rolleyes:
- Hidden Bluetooth Audio system (maybe)
And as I said, I'm sure I will see other cool options

So I'm going to end this post with this information and I'll get my build started in following entries.

I'm using this photo as my goal and final planned look for my build, it is a large poster that will soon be on the wall of my garage...
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This photo added on 12/24/20 to show the final look, compared to my original plan.
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[BadAsp427]

So one of the scary parts of buying the 20th Anniversary kit from the original owner and not a complete kit from FF was not knowing what may or may not be still with the kit after 3 years. After several conversations with the original owner, I was convinced that everything should be there. Then when I got there to pick up the kit I can say that nearly all of my concerns were gone. Nearly every box was still taped up from the FF delivery 3 year ago. Only a couple boxes were opened so that the owner could send me some photos to confirm what I was looking at. So, together we did a quick inventory of everything as we loaded it on the trailer. This was not a detailed part by part inventory, but one that gave me the feeling that I was getting what he, and now I was paying for. Every thing looked good with only three things missing... Of course these were big things... the Chrome roll bar, The assembled side louvers and the gas peddle assy were all missing. The original owner is working with FF to get those items to me.

So fast forward 24 hours, 8/19/18 and I'm in my garage doing a much more detailed, box by box inventory... Not sure if I should be overwhelmed or not, but wow it's amazing the number of parts... The good thing is that the POL parts had all been received so I'm not waiting on those items. I placed all the boxes in box number order as I unloaded them from my trailer and then started with box 1A and progressed through box 26 and the POL boxes.

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This was the one box that I was most excited to finding and opening....

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As I completed each box of inventory, they were all placed on shelves and marked on several sides with the box numbers easily viewed to help an make finding that "part" when I need it. So now all the boxes are off to the side of my garage and work area, out of the way until needed.

Next, I'll prepare for getting the Chassis and the Body out of the trailer and into it's new home.

[BadAsp427]

Tonight, the inventory complete, I can start the process of getting ready for the Chassis and Body to come in out of the trailer. While it is a little thing, it was kind of rewarding looking back into my garage as I left it tonight and seeing this dolly coming together in the middle of the floor. Having purchased my kit from a private party that had built a previous roadster had a nice advantage. The original owner included his high rise body buck with the deal. So all I needed to do was build a Chassis Dolly to put the Chassis on once I get it into the garage. I plan to have this thing up pretty high to help my back... I decided to go with the Chassis Dolly that chrisarella had designed and posted the plans for (Click Here to See Those Plans ) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28226-Chris-s-Chassis-Dolly-Build-Plans&p=322846&viewfull=1#post322846) I made some planned modification that will allow the bottom of my chassis to be at 21"+/- above the floor. Here are some photos I took tonight as I assembled the dolly. The wheels have been ordered and should be here in the next day or two. Then I will get the body and chassis into the garage and get started...

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The modification I made include using a 4 x 6 in place of the 4 x 4 in the original plan and then a 4 x 4 will be added to the top of the 4 x 6 and securely fastened to each other with 7" lag bolts and wood glue between all parts will create an extremely sturdy dolly.

[KDubU]

Yeah there are a lot of parts when you open all the boxes. Sounds like you’re off to a good start and one good thing is to shouldn’t have any backordered parts! :D

[edwardb]

Congrats (again) on scoring the 20th anniversary kit. Couple of quick comments/hints: There have been some changes made in the three years since that kit was made. Nothing major (or bad!) but just be aware as you're looking at other build threads, asking questions, etc. Specifically the driver's side footbox is different now, the wiring harness has a new revision, and you probably have the Afco Racing radiator are three things I can think of. If you're going to use a cable driven clutch, also make sure you have the latest version of the mod to the Wilwood pedal box. It should pull in-line with the clutch pedal. Not off to the side like the early versions. I don't remember exactly when Factory Five made that change. You mention battery relocate to trunk area. I assume you know the stock location is the trunk area, so probably you mean putting it below the trunk floor? This may/may not work with the 2015+ IRS setup you have. Personally, I'd recommend looking at the Breeze front mount battery setup. With the other mods you're describing (dropped trunk floor, cubby) getting the battery out of the trunk area completely might be a good way to go. Obviously it's way past the number of days Factory Five asks to be notified about parts shortages. Hopefully they'll work with you on that. Chrome roll bar is a pretty big deal of course. I wouldn't sweat too much about the $70+ louvers. And I especially wouldn't sweat about the gas pedal. Highly recommend using the Russ Thompson gas pedal. It's a huge upgrade and not expensive. While you're at it, also highly recommend a mechanical linkage versus the throttle cable. Good luck and have fun!

[BadAsp427]

Thanks for the info. I’m sure I’ll be in touch with you and many others. I also just discovered that the chrome bumpers that are suppose to be part of the kit are not here or even on the parts lists. I got the over riders but not the hoops. According to FF web site the were part of the 20th.
Congrats (again) on scoring the 20th anniversary kit. Couple of quick comments/hints: There have been some changes made in the three years since that kit was made. Nothing major (or bad!) but just be aware as you're looking at other build threads, asking questions, etc. Specifically the driver's side footbox is different now, the wiring harness has a new revision, and you probably have the Afco Racing radiator are three things I can think of. If you're going to use a cable driven clutch, also make sure you have the latest version of the mod to the Wilwood pedal box. It should pull in-line with the clutch pedal. Not off to the side like the early versions. I don't remember exactly when Factory Five made that change. You mention battery relocate to trunk area. I assume you know the stock location is the trunk area, so probably you mean putting it below the trunk floor? This may/may not work with the 2015+ IRS setup you have. Personally, I'd recommend looking at the Breeze front mount battery setup. With the other mods you're describing (dropped trunk floor, cubby) getting the battery out of the trunk area completely might be a good way to go. Obviously it's way past the number of days Factory Five asks to be notified about parts shortages. Hopefully they'll work with you on that. Chrome roll bar is a pretty big deal of course. I wouldn't sweat too much about the $70+ louvers. And I especially wouldn't sweat about the gas pedal. Highly recommend using the Russ Thompson gas pedal. It's a huge upgrade and not expensive. While you're at it, also highly recommend a mechanical linkage versus the throttle cable. Good luck and have fun!

[edwardb]

Thanks for the info. I’m sure I’ll be in touch with you and many others. I also just discovered that the chrome bumpers that are suppose to be part of the kit are not here or even on the parts lists. I got the over riders but not the hoops. According to FF web site the were part of the 20th.

Missed those on mine as well. There were several 20th anniversary advertised items that weren't on any of the paperwork (shipped or backordered) that I had to point out to them, also including the door panels and roll bar grommets.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Interesting...sounds like there were some contend discrepancies among the 20 cars. I noticed that the Anniversary roadster that was recently delivered to me had the "bend 'em yourself" louvers (powdercoated white no less) and mentioned it to the owner. He purchased a set of assembled ones from **********. This particular car has full bumpers but I don't know if they came with the package or if he bought them separately. Just some little quirks that make your special editions even more special I guess!

Jeff

[edwardb]

Interesting...sounds like there were some contend discrepancies among the 20 cars. I noticed that the Anniversary roadster that was recently delivered to me had the "bend 'em yourself" louvers (powdercoated white no less) and mentioned it to the owner. He purchased a set of assembled ones from **********. This particular car has full bumpers but I don't know if they came with the package or if he bought them separately. Just some little quirks that make your special editions even more special I guess!

Jeff

Actually, looking at my documentation for 003, the #15659 Assembled Side Louver Set was not part of the Anniversary package. I bought them separately. The Factory Five link in post #1 above does show everything that was part of the package. Including the full overrider and bumper set.

[BadAsp427]

So ever have one of those days where you spend 20-30 minutes composing an update, only to want to close the photo you are looking at but hit the "X" for the whole page... Yup... I just did....

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So, anyway, while I was waiting for my casters to arrive via FedEx (they did today) I was able to paint the chassis dolly. I used the red epoxy I had for the floor lines. I think it came out pretty good and at least initially seems to be a very hard finish... Should do very well.


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So today I installed the casters and got it flipped over, it is heavy, I would guess 200 lbs +/-.

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So now, I have to get the car out of the trailer, into the garage and then up onto the 21" dolly. I guess it is at this time that I should mention that I do just about everything by myself. I can get very creative as I did tonight...

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Ok, the body/chassis and the dolly are all in the garage, now if I only had special powers and could just point a finger at it and have it raise up onto the dolly.

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So, with a small floor jack that only has a max height of 14" and a dolly that is 7 inches higher that that, I had to get very creative with blocks of wood, jack stands, a bit of balancing the car and moving very slowly... it is up on the dolly and it is so easy to move around in the garage.

Tomorrow I will begin documenting and marking the body and aluminum pannels and get ready for the big undressing... The body buck is still in the trailer, but I should have no problem getting it into the garage and the body onto it in the next couple days.

AND THEN The real fun can begin.....

[BadAsp427]

Ok, so the body is off the chassis and up on the buck. Turns out I will be able to work with both of them in the garage at the same time but with a minor adjustment to the positioning of the car during the build. I can turn them both sideways in the garage and have loads of room all around both of them and should not have any problems. In fact, if wanted, I can actually roll the chassis over to my work bench and still have good room. (So back in March 2015 when I bought my home, this large detached garage was the only reason I bought the property, true story :-) I had visions for this garage and it is now becoming reality)

So I removed the body from the chassis with only myself and 3 tie down straps, or in this case tie up straps. With a lot of back and forth, front to back, a little at a time I raised the body up to my rafters and then was able to move the chassis out of the way and roll in the buck. Lowered it down and now its time to get down to business.

I took the advice of several on here as well as on the video from FF and marked my front and rear body (overrider) bolts, but I'm not sure of the purpose of this exercise as they were all exactly the same on the front and on the rear... Perhaps it will all make sense later.

I'm following EdwardBs build post as my primary go to, and a little from many other here on the forum as well as the series on Youtube from FF. Excited is an understatement.

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[Higgybulin]

Good start!! I'll be watching
Higgy

[Boydster]

So back in March 2015 when I bought my home, this large detached garage was the only reason I bought the property, true story :-) I had visions for this garage and it is now becoming reality)

Th house I'm in now, bought about 3 years ago. When I was house hunting, I knew what I wanted in a garage, but was kinda flexible on the house. My search filter only had "2-3 car garage". True stuff. Now very happy in the house... and the garage. ;)

Good luck on your build... I have so enjoyed building mine.

[BadAsp427]

So now that the garage and chassis and body are all in the "let's get busy" position, Today I got an early start on what I hope to be a very productive day. And as the build manual says, you start with the front suspension and to do that, the "F" panels go on first. This job took me a little longer than I think it normally would have as I was spending a lot of my time preparing for the mess of metal shavings that I was expecting. I found good use for the 9,032 feet of brown paper that comes with your kit. I guess they know you will need it.

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First things first, I used some plastic clamps to hold the "F" panels in place while I got them all lined up. If that is possible. I found that on the DS, the panel and the diagonal support were not as consistent as was the passenger side. And on the PS I had to shave a little bit off one area to allow for the weld, but only slightly.
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Once I got them lined up the way I liked them, I marked them with a "DRY ERASE" marker so that I could mark up the drill holes. Using the kit provide "tool" I then marked all of my drill points and went to the drill press and went to town. I also set up a small shop vac that I had with a little duct tape to my drill press so that 85% of the shavings went away immediately. The rest, I'll clean up at the end of the day. I also drilled out the rear edge with the 9/32s drill in preparation for the nutserts / rivnuts that EdwardB recommended in his build. I should be able to install those with the panels installed on the chassis when they arrive. EdwardB Build Thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=208643&viewfull=1#post208643) I also cut out the small square at the top rear corner just as was discussed in his thread as well. Learn from the one of the best and trust it will all come together...
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Once the panels were drilled, it was back to the Chassis to again line it them up and clamp them in place. I then drilled out the frame through the holes in the panels. I must say, the first couple holes into your new power coated chassis can cause a lot of double checking to be sure all was in place. As I drilled a hole, I immediately filled it with a clekos to insure all was in place and not moving around as I continued with the rest of the drilling. After all the steel chassis drilling was complete, I then removed the panel, gave it a good cleaning and I applied the clear silicon to the F panel using the drilled holes as my guide. I then place the panels up on the chassis and attached it with clekos all the way. I did the PS first, and allowed it to set up while I worked on the DS. Then I came back and began the task of riveting it on permanently.
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So to do the riveting, I got out my brand new harbor freight pneumatic rivet gun and "Primed" it as the instructions stated. Gave it a test fire and it covered me with oil. I was somewhat expecting it from other posts I had read. I took it outside and fired it off several times until it seemed to have the oil spray out of it's system and then merely wrapped a rag around the area where the air vents out and zip tied it in place. This allowed for the slight oil mist each time I used it to be collected and not transmitted all over my pretty white power coat panels. The rivet gun worked perfect, but I found that it was best to remove the used rivet from the front rather than just pushing it through as it is suppose to do. If I did not do this, I could only get 3 rivets completed before I had to take the front off of the gun and release the spent rivet rods manually. I found that 70 PSI worked great with this gun.

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Lunch time and then back to the actual front suspension...

[BadAsp427]

OK, this concludes my first real day of actually working on the build and emptying parts boxes... that is a good feeling to see the stack of trash that I created today to get to the final product of the day. So I completed the front basic suspension. I say basic because I still have the sway bar and steering to get installed. But here are some of the lessons learned from today's work.

First thing was I completed the same Mod that EdwardB identified in his build thread for his 20th. This is the mod that fixes the bind that happens at the bottom of the double adjustable Koni shocks. The lower shock mount has to be modified with a grinder to prevent the problem. Learn more about this at EdwardB's post HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=208644&viewfull=1#post208644).
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This is my completed modification, also my first use of POR-15. I like it!

Once that minor modification was complete, I installed the shocks. It seems that my shock mounts were very tight with the spacers. I had to grind a small amount off of one of the spacers to be able to get it installed. I actually think it would have been a perfect fit if it were not for the Powder Coat. Again, this was very minor.

Spindles, Hubs, Dust Caps, Shocks all installed. Done for the day.
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Next I think I will be working on the Wilwood brake package.

[BadAsp427]

So I started out today thinking I was going to put together the IRS and Wilwood brakes all around. That did not happen. I started out with the front Wilwood kit, got it all ready to go and when I went to get out my safety wire, I found there was only about 5" left on the roll. Oh, also, the Wilwood disks are directional. So I stopped there for now as far as putting them on the car. But then I got the "make it look pretty bug." So I started with the bolts for the caliper mount. I thought that if it looks like it could rust, I'm going to wire wheel them and clear coat them with several coats of clear enamel. So that's what I did. Oh, then I broke open the Wilwood box for the rear and did all those bolts as well. Figured I would get them ready now.
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So the "Make it Pretty Bug" continued with everything for the IRS. I started with the 3rd member, remember, it's been in the box for 3 years along with everything else. I spent some time with wire brushes and wheels on the drill along with the clear paint. The Photos show the before, during and after. Perhaps tomorrow I'll actually get started on the IRS install. I'm excited...
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Next, or rather in conjunction with the 3rd member, I also started on the required modifications of the rear spindle knuckles. Cutting into a perfectly good, several hundred dollar part is scary, but after studying the IRS instructions as well as photos from EdwardB's built, I was confident I was doing it correctly. So, cut off the ear on the knuckles and drilled out the required hole from less than 1/2" to the required 5/8". Also cleaned up the casting lines on the knuckles along with the rough cut area. They came out pretty good... currently they have clear on them and they are drying and getting ready for a hopeful install tomorrow. I also found another use for the 9,394 feet of brown paper, I made a vice bib to catch the aluminum shavings created with the saws-all.
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So with the addition of the POR-15 on all the steel parts and clear enamel on the cleaned aluminum, this is what it looks like. I'll get a final photo after everything is dry and I can move them for a better photo.
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[BadAsp427]

So today I started the IRS on my 20th Anniversary build. I started by trying to follow all the directions that I have in a supplemental instructional guide.
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Can anyone tell me if this is the most recent version of this?

I followed it and put together all the control arms and the toe arm, and laid them out to get a feel of what I had going on.
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Notice I have my differential under there as well, just have it on a furniture dolly for the moment. And that was just a moment as next I moved all the control arms out of the way and started the task of putting in the differential. It took me about 20 minutes once I developed my plan of attack. Doing this alone I was planning to raise it up as other have done with straps or lift of some kind, but the upper trunk deck area has a plate in the way and I was not able to do it from above. So, I did it from below, I just balanced the differential with the shaft pointing up on my small floor jack and a 2x6 and raised it straight up into the hole, when it was high enough, I tipped it forward into the tunnel opening and let it set in place, raised up the back of it and slide in one of the rear bolts and got it to start to thread in. This was enough that I knew it could not fall out and then I lifted the front in place and got one of the front bolts to slide in enough that a rubber mallet could convince it to go all the way in. Then it was just a matter of using the jack to raise and lower ever so slightly to get the other two bolts in place.
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So that is as far as I actually got tonight. I came a complete stop as I can not seem to find the rear sway bar mounting bracket that has to go on with the same bolt as the toe arm. I have a bag full of hardware for the IRS Sway-bar, but can not find the brackets anywhere. Perhaps EdwardB can remember where his were hiding with his kit???
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[edwardb]

You can usually find the most recent instructions here: http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/. Looks to me like Factory Five is doing a good job of posting updates as they are made. The latest Roadster IRS instructions are here: http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/content/instructions/15942-2015-irs.pdf.

I don't recall specifically where the rear sway bar brackets were in my kit. I think in the box with all the other 2015 IRS parts. But I'm not positive. They're fairly large steel welded brackets. Won't fit in that little plastic bag. They're pictured in the instructions, which probably you have. But this is from the same instructions directory: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/SWAYBAR-2015-IRS.pdf.

One other hint just in case it didn't catch up with your kit. Factory Five issued a technical upgrade to the 2015+ IRS a year or so after it was released. Maybe they sent to the original buyer of your kit. But something to check. I'm not sure what the issue was, but it was important enough they sent it to all buyers of the new (at the time) IRS. There are different cone spacers for the upper control arm attachment to the knuckle. Also large washers that go under the bolt head.

[BadAsp427]

You can usually find the most recent instructions here: http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/. Looks to me like Factory Five is doing a good job of posting updates as they are made. The latest Roadster IRS instructions are here: http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/content/instructions/15942-2015-irs.pdf.

One other hint just in case it didn't catch up with your kit. Factory Five issued a technical upgrade to the 2015+ IRS a year or so after it was released. Maybe they sent to the original buyer of your kit. But something to check. I'm not sure what the issue was, but it was important enough they sent it to all buyers of the new (at the time) IRS. There are different cone spacers for the upper control arm attachment to the knuckle. Also large washers that go under the bolt head.

Thanks Paul, I'll look at these instructions and compare with what I have... and yes, I have the updated knuckle cone spacers and will be using them.
I have also sent an email to Dave B at FFR inquiring about the brackets. Not sure if you saw my "visitor note" to you, but your PM is full and not excepting any new PMs

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul, I'll look at these instructions and compare with what I have... and yes, I have the updated knuckle cone spacers and will be using them.
I have also sent an email to Dave B at FFR inquiring about the brackets. Not sure if you saw my "visitor note" to you, but your PM is full and not excepting any new PMs

I checked again on the boxes for the sway bar parts. I have still have my #8674 box listings. There was a box 16. Had two pages of listings. One for 2015 IRS sway bar components, another for front sway bar components. The brackets in question were supposed to be in this box 16, but were zeroed out and on the POL. They came several weeks later.

I saw your message and cleaned up my PM box. Should be OK now.

[Yama-Bro]

You are moving right along. It's looking great!

[BadAsp427]

So today was a day of getting ready to work more on another day.

I'm on a work standstill as far as putting the IRS together pending getting the rear sway bar brackets that did not get shipped with the kit. A couple emails to FFR and David B and they are in the FedEx box and in route with expected delivery on Thursday, I'm starting to see a big Saturday coming up.

The list of things completed today include:
- installed the new studs in the rear hubs. I actually used an old lug nut I took off of my trailer and a hardened washer, just like the manual said, then I used an impact wrench and pulled them in until they were just barley seated on the back, then finished them off with a 100 ft Lb pull with the torque wrench. I've seen where some people have them pressed in, the key to using the lug nut pull method is lubrication on the threads and the washer, if it can all slide well, it will pull them in without any problems IMO. I used WD40 and that seemed to work real well.

- Re assembled the rear hub assembly, I may have gone overboard, but even the bolt heads received a good wire brushing and several clear coats before being reinstalled onto the hubs. I think they look good and will look real good up on the car. I'm also hoping that any surface rust will be avoided.

- Assembled the rear Wilwood Brake rotors and hats. (Still waiting for the safety (lock) wire to arrive, should be here tomorrow. All 24 bolts have their loctite and have been torqued to the required 112 in/lbs.

- Cleaned up the IRS CV Axles. They were actually in really good shape and I did not want to do anything to them and cause problems in the future. I did see that the dust shield that is on the differential end was kind of bent up on both of them. I spent a little time on them and they are straighter now.

- Cleaned up and applied several coats of clear on the steering rack.

So now I have a bunch of IRS parts all laid out and ready to install. Just waiting on the bracket from FFR.

I also discovered that on the hiem joint end of the toe bar, the instructions says to install a 1/4" spacer and a 1/8" spacer. But my kit came with all 1/4" spacers and no 1/8" spacers. I'm going to have to find some 1/8" spacers as with the 1/4" ones, it will not fit. Little things won't stress me out... little things won't stress me out... little things will not stress me out... little things......

Here are the only photos I took today...

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[Fixit]

Looking great!!
Don't sweat the small stuff, there's plenty to do. I'm kinda the same way - I want to complete a sub-assembly then move on, but things get in the way.
(Congratulations on paying attention to the rotor instructions - you didn't join the 112 FOOT pounds snapped bolt club!)

[BadAsp427]

20 years in the Air Force as a jet engine mechanic, I hope I don’t miss something as inch pounds versus foot pounds. I just wish my safety wire would get here to see if I’ve still got it. I used to be the safety wire king.!r

[DavidW]

20 years in the Air Force as a jet engine mechanic, I hope I don’t miss something as inch pounds versus foot pounds. I just wish my safety wire would get here to see if I’ve still got it. I used to be the safety wire king.!r

Yeah, I never heard of such a thing as inch pounds, I had to look it up when I started my build. Then there are the conversions, 112 inch pounds=9.3 Ft pounds and to make it even more confusing how about 9.3 Ft pounds=12.6 Newton Meters!

[BadAsp427]

So today I received the Safety Wire, Rivnuts and most importantly the IRS Sway Bar brackets from FFR. The sway bar bracket look to be stamp cut out of thick steel and then bent and welded as needed. This left them with some pretty sharp edges that I took a grinder too and smoothed them out as well as ruffed up the surface a bit for the POR-15 to adhere too. I painted them up and left them hanging to dry as I took on the Wilwood brake safety wire.

Now, having been in the Air Force for a full 20 years, 11 of those as a Jet Engine mechanic, I have done a lot of safety wire on everything from F16s, B1 bomers, to little small gas turbines. I have won several, for fun, safety wire competitions... But last night, I did not have the skill that I know I did 25 years ago. But it was fun and if you look close, you will see only one continues safety wire for all 12 bolts. And that was completed on the first try without braking the wire and starting over. I also greased up all of the suspension parts in preparation of installation. This weekend the front suspension/steering and the IRS should all be completed. Fingers crossed.

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[edwardb]

Nice work on the safety wires. No fair having all that experience. My first time ever was when I did mine. FYI, in your picture of the rear sway bar brackets looks like you also have front sway bar brackets? Don't think you'll need those on your build. Your chassis should already have the front mounts installed. Those brackets are needed to adapt older chassis without the front mounts. I received them with my anniversary kit as well... Now in the scrap box.

[BadAsp427]

FYI, in your picture of the rear sway bar brackets looks like you also have front sway bar brackets? Don't think you'll need those on your build. Your chassis should already have the front mounts installed. Those brackets are needed to adapt older chassis without the front mounts. I received them with my anniversary kit as well... Now in the scrap box.

Yes, I knew this, but forgot while I was grinding away... So now I think I have the beginning of an FFR Parts Wind Chime... Actually this is a second set of them I now have. FFR sent them with the rear ones...

[BadAsp427]

First I want to thank FFR and specifically Tony who after understanding the full situation concerning my 20th Anv. kit missing the drivers roll bar made the decision to ship one out directly to me. Even though it has been 3 years since the original owner received the kit, FFR made good! What a Fantastic Company...

Then, about 4pm today, I received a very welcome and unexpected visitor. Dave Rulon from Tybee Island, GA (Savannah) AKA DadofThree. He took a quick 2 hour drive from his home town up to visit me and allow me to look over his "in work" yet driven, build. It was very awesome to be able to see one of these roadsters in person other than the one in my garage mostly in boxes. I'm even more excited and pumped to complete mine now that I had the chance to hear and see his Mk3.1 roll out of my driveway. Thanks again Dave for coming by, your always welcome.

He was also kind enough to take a couple photos of me with my nearly completed IRS.
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As for what was accomplished on the build today. I was able to assemble the complete Independent Rear Suspension. During this lesson in life, I discovered that when something calls for a spacer, and you have said spacer, that doesn't mean that said spacer will actually fit in the area it is suppose to. I found that I had to use the bench grinder on several of the spacers for the shocks and sway bar in order to get them to fit in the brackets that are pre welded at FFR to the chassis. Be prepared to make those type of adjustments if you are starting your build. I think it is a combination of the very nice powder coat on the frame along with the guys welding the chassis together keeping extremely close tolerances.... In some cases I was able to spread the brackets apart just enough to get the spacers in place and then the 100ft lbs of torque just pulled everything back into place.

Here are some photos of the completed IRS. Tomorrow I will be installing all 4 wilwood brakes as well as I believe the manual has me starting the foot box/firewall area. Should be tons of fun!
Drivers Side:
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Passenger Side:
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Sway Bar Mounts:
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[cv2065]

First I want to thank FFR and specifically Tony who after understanding the full situation concerning my 20th Anv. kit missing the drivers roll bar made the decision to ship one out directly to me. Even though it has been 3 years since the original owner received the kit, FFR made good! What a Fantastic Company...

Then, about 4pm today, I received a very welcome and unexpected visitor. Dave Rulon from Tybee Island, GA (Savannah) AKA DadofThree. He took a quick 2 hour drive from his home town up to visit me and allow me to look over his "in work" yet driven, build. It was very awesome to be able to see one of these roadsters in person other than the one in my garage mostly in boxes. I'm even more excited and pumped to complete mine now that I had the chance to hear and see his Mk3.1 roll out of my driveway. Thanks again Dave for coming by, your always welcome.

He was also kind enough to take a couple photos of me with my nearly completed IRS.
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As for what was accomplished on the build today. I was able to assemble the complete Independent Rear Suspension. During this lesson in life, I discovered that when something calls for a spacer, and you have said spacer, that doesn't mean that said spacer will actually fit in the area it is suppose to. I found that I had to use the bench grinder on several of the spacers for the shocks and sway bar in order to get them to fit in the brackets that are pre welded at FFR to the chassis. Be prepared to make those type of adjustments if you are starting your build. I think it is a combination of the very nice powder coat on the frame along with the guys welding the chassis together keeping extremely close tolerances.... In some cases I was able to spread the brackets apart just enough to get the spacers in place and then the 100ft lbs of torque just pulled everything back into place.

I've put my threaded bar to work on this build multiple times. Matter of fact, I've had to use it to spread just about every bracket where something fits inside it. Only takes me a couple of minutes and everything has fit perfectly tight after its all assembled, but certainly something that is needed in the work flow.

Your build looks great!

[Fixit]

Ok... Now I've seen it all - Safety Wire porn.
Nice Work!!

Don't take this the wrong way, but you may have a hidden hindrance that you'll be fighting during your build - your aviation background.
You are not dealing with a military-spec airframe or a jet engine. You're working on a car made up from 3rd-party component parts that weren't designed for each other. FFR has made the provisions to make them bolt together.

There will be some grinding, shaping, and probably some brute-force thumps with a "Chevy Tool" to get things lined up. My best friends during suspension assembly were two large drift punches and a rubber mallet to coax parts into alignment.

(I have a dear friend who spent 35+ years in Naval Aviation, and he's into old Buick Skylarks. I've seen him get downright apoplectic working on this stuff when parts don't slip together like a Swiss watch. He's expecting mil-spec, when he's dealing with a vehicle that was slammed together in 63 minutes in the pre-computer era.)

[Gromit]

I'm just loving watching another 20th go together and only because I 'be read Edwardb's thread more times than I care to admit I think you're missing a big flat washer on that upper "A" arm heim joint on the IRS. I'm thinking it was add to capture that point if the joint failes in side load. As I recall it was an update he received during his build
That safety wire is pure mechanical porn. Keep up the good work
Chris AKA Gromit

[BadAsp427]

I'm just loving watching another 20th go together and only because I 'be read Edwardb's thread more times than I care to admit I think you're missing a big flat washer on that upper "A" arm heim joint on the IRS. I'm thinking it was add to capture that point if the joint failes in side load. As I recall it was an update he received during his build
That safety wire is pure mechanical porn. Keep up the good work
Chris AKA Gromit

I will double check this. I did have the updated parts and instructions for that and followed them... I think.... Thanks for the look out!

Edit Update: Thanks Gromit, you were right and I have installed the missing washer, took all of about 10 minutes. Thanks again.
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[BadAsp427]

So today I worked on several things so I'm going to share them in separate updates.

The day started with working on the front brakes. I followed the instructions that came with the Wilwood brake kit and for the most part, everything went exactly as instructed. Install the bracket to the spindles, put the centering ring on the hub, put the rotor on, put on and align the caliper, take off the caliper and install pads, reinstall caliper and that's where I left the brakes. I'll get to the lines and such during that part of the build. Both sides are complete, loctite and torqued.
I had zero problems or issues, just spent a bit of time getting the caliper aligned over the rotor. Even that was fairly easy, the hardest part was reinstalling the caliper bolts along with the spacer shims in place, they just want to fall out every time you look at them.
(only one problem that I had was that the Wilwood package of parts and stuff was missing the 4 washers for the Spindle to Bracket mount bolts. A quick trip to the hardware store solved that problem)

One note here, the rotors and the calipers are PS / DS specific, be sure you watch for the arrows...

Do not forget to install the centering ring, with the smaller diameter side out, the rotor will center on that.
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Not all shims are equal... The 4 with the dot on them are all half thickness, they all look alike until you start measuring them. When you start, the instructions call for one thin and one thick. When I was all done, I have two thick shims on both sides and my rotor is centered within .005". Pretty happy with that!
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Next was the install of the brake pads. You have to remove a small retainer snap ring. It was difficult to get the tip of my needle nose pliers to hold onto and pull out of the hole it was in. Then I figured out that all I had to do was push up on the brake pad pin the snap ring was holding in and it would push the snap ring out while I squeezed it with the needle nose. Hint, you may need to push the brake pad retaining pin into the brake pad holes a few times before you actually try to install them. Mine were tight with stuff from the manufacturing or something. But a pull in and out a few times make them slide in very easy.
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Once you have the pads installed, it is just back to the rotor, remember to put your appropriate amount of shims and loctite on, torque it down and it complete.
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So I will get to the fluid lines later in the build but until now, the front brakes are complete.

[BadAsp427]

So as I'm doing this build, I've been trying to follow the sequence in the build manual from FFR. At the same time, I'm following several different threads but specifically following EdwardB's. He jumps around a bit, mostly because he did not have all the parts while he was building and he has the experience of knowing what he can do without jeopardizing something that may be coming in the future of the build. I'm using that knowledge to vary a little from the build manual... but I'm staying pretty close to it for the most part. So, having said all this, the next subject in the build manual is the Firewall, so that is where I went next.

Another challenge for me is that with the 20th Anniversary kit having many panels powder coated white, they came in a box and not pre installed on the chassis. I did not have the opportunity to see them installed or pre mark them as I took them off, so it's all new to me. I'm not worried about it, I'll just figure them out as I go. So, lets get started with the powder coated Firewall is one of them, I started with a lot of protective tape to help me keep it clean and scratch free. In the build manual, it has a note; "those builders that plan to install the heater/defroster it is easier to cut the holes for that upgrade before installing the firewall". SO, I did just that. Using the template provide in the instructions, I followed them to the letter. Even broke apart the heater box and fan box and double checked everything.

Everything taped off and marked for engine side (kept me straight more than once)
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So the instructions say to verify that the template and the actual parts align. The six mounting screw holes were a perfect match, but the two holes for the heater lines were off just a little bit. You can see the new center point at the tip of my pencil. I used a one inch wood drill bit to cut the larger holes out as indicated by the instructions and then my high speed drimel tool with a sanding drum on it to open it up the rest of the way to 1.25" I was very pleased at how easy the wood bit cut through the aluminum and made a very nice hole. I did drill a 1/8" pilot hold for it to follow. Don't let the torn tape fool you, the holes turned out to be a very clean cut.
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Next I had to cut out the large air flow opening for the heater fan. The instructions suggested using tin snips, but even the photo of where they did that did not look like a good finished product. (I know, it will be hidden inside the heater, but I would know) So I set up a little 2 x 4 jig on my outside work bench that would allow my jig saw blade clearance but give me a very good support to hold the panel down while I cut it. It worked perfectly and I cut very slow so that I would have a nice smooth edge, mission accomplished.
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So, now that the firewall is in place, the heater/defroster holes cut, I completed the process of drilling out and gluing/riveting the firewall in place. I then held the padded dash panel up in place and it is obvious the glove box will be really nothing more than the door. My hope is that when it is done, the door will still open and close and I can have my registration and insurance papers just inside for quick access. That little modification will be for another day...
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After I completed the firewall, the next step in the build manual is the pedal box. So I found all the hardware and parts and took the metal ones out to the outside workshop and cleaned them off and shot them with some black spray paint to get them ready for tomorrow.
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[GoDadGo]

You're Going To Be Kicking Asphalt Before You Know It!

[Fixit]

Heater:
FFR/Vintage Air supplies a very nice template for cutting the firewall... except it isn't quite perfect. The holes for the inlet/outlet aren't quite in the right spots. The pic shows just how much "off" the inlet/outlet holes are. Measure twice... cut Once.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92095&d=1535424495&thumb=1 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92095&d=1535424495)

At least they're consistently wrong...

We'll have to keep checking on eachother on the glovebox thing... I opted for the blank dash - doing a variant of the SC layout - and I want to do a glovebox. Even if it's useless that large expanse of "nothing" on the right side would look funny IMO.

[BadAsp427]

Ok, so I know there are several different fixes for the Clutch Pedal and Chassis interference in the pedal box. I have read many of them and was convinced that there was no way that FFR would send out a kit that would have this problem and I just knew I would put mine together and not have any issue... LOL... I was wrong... So, taking what I had learned from many of you, I came up with a fix that I believe is perfect. I also believe in what EdwardB said yesterday about this being up in the bowels of the pedal box and will never be seen. But I still wanted it to be strong and be a clean modification. Here is what I did.

To start with, I identified just exactly where the pedal hit the 3/4" tubing. Then I drew a line that was parallel to the swing of the pedal. I then determined where I was going to bolt on my 1/4" thick x 3/4" wide and 4" long patch bar and drilled the patch bar, then used the bar as the template to mark the 3/4 bar. I then drilled out the 3/4" bar while it was all still connected. I wanted the firm rigid bar rather than after I cut it trying to drill it if there was flex. I then created a paper floor pan to catch the clippings and metal shavings as I used an angle grinder and hack saw to to the deed. I then cleaned up the 3/4" tubing, and the patch bar and put it all together. I used 1/4" x 3/4" long bolts with lock nuts. I used a small magnet to hold the nut inside the tube while I started the bolt into the threads. Then, I jammed a large flat screwdriver in between the side of the nut and the tube and was able to tighten them down. Shot some gray metallic paint on all of it and there you have it.

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[BadAsp427]

Today, after I completed the clutch pedal interference modification, I also installed the Steering Rack, Tie Rod Ends, Complete Pedal Box, Master Cylinders, Clutch Cable and Throttle Cable and Gas Pedal.

And before you tell me, I know about the upgrades that can be done with the mechanical linkage on the throttle and the hydraulic clutch option... I'm attempting to build this as close to FFRs build as I can. Some upgrades will be utilized, but as few as possible and still be a nice build. Building on a very tight budget. Perhaps some modifications will come in time, but for now it is what it is!



The rest of the items installed today were all completed following the FFR Build Manual (including installing and removing and installing and removing the wilwood pedal box about 30,000 times) so no real need to explain all of this. One minor modification was the clutch cable pass through tube. I opened up the 4 bolt holes to 1/4" and installed some stainless steel bolts to add a little bling to that area... you know, just in case someone looks...

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I'm thinking of creating a little safety net on the clutch cable connection to the quadrent. I'm thinking of drilling a small hole straight through the quadrant just above the cable at the end (pen is pointing where I think I will drill) and then just put a cotter pin through there. Not sure if the cable popping off is a problem or not, but I could see it happening and I think this would keep it down in place should it somehow catch a little slack at some point and want to flip up off of the quadrant.
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[BadAsp427]

Today I was able to spend some time and went back to the IRS and Rear Brakes. I had missed putting on a safety washer on the top heim joint and I was able to get the rear brakes and E-Brake installed. No brake lines or cables as of yet. Actually that has not come up in the manual just yet. When I do get to the brake line, I'm planning to use the basic line that comes with the kit, but I'm going to clean it up with 600 grit emery paper and clear coat it. Almost looks stainless / chrome. I think it will look really good. Calling it a night early today as I have a big day at work tomorrow and really need to go to bed on time.
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Brake Line with the normal finish and the slightly "polished" look.
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According to the build manual, my next task is to install the fuel tank. I have all ready installed, loctite and torqued the couplings for the rear bumper/body mounts so that is done. Oh, I actually purchased Stainless Steel Bolts for the couplings. I figure they may be out of sight, but I don't want them rusting if I can avoid it.
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QUESTION: In all the experience out there, is there anything else I should really consider doing before I put the tank up in place? Wiring, Brake lines, etc. Or are all of those easy enough after the tank is up in place?

[Jeff Kleiner]

QUESTION: In all the experience out there, is there anything else I should really consider doing before I put the tank up in place? Wiring, Brake lines, etc. Or are all of those easy enough after the tank is up in place?

Be sure to flatten out the flange at the front of the tank where it will meet the two square legs with the plastic caps on the chassis. Wiring, etc. remains accessible with the tank installed.

Jeff

[cv2065]

QUESTION: In all the experience out there, is there anything else I should really consider doing before I put the tank up in place? Wiring, Brake lines, etc. Or are all of those easy enough after the tank is up in place?

I plan to install the rear wiring harness before installing the tank.

[BadAsp427]

Last night I did not get home from work until about 6pm, normally home by 4pm. So I did not get to do anything except lay out all of the parts for the fuel tank install that I did tonight. That was very straight forward went pretty smooth. I do have a hint if you are doing this by yourself, tape the tank straps up out of the way with some painters tape so that you can slide the tank under on your floor jack with out fighting with the dangling straps. Worked well for me, could for you as well. I also sanded the fill tube and shot a couple coats of clear on it to help deter rust and also the fill tube retainer, I actually dipped it in my POR15 and let is drip dry over night.
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One other thing that I did was to open up the Vent Check Valve tube. I know there are large opening ones out there, but I think that by opening the FF provided one I should be ok. It was very simple and only required drilling the brass fitting from both directions. I opened it up just as far as I felt I should try.
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Now, fast forward 20 hours and I was at in by 4:30 today... I was able to completely assemble the fuel tank and get it up and the drivers side strap tightened and the PS just a couple threads up as the build manual states to leave it loose for sheet metal work later.
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Then, as soon as I finished with the fuel tank, the next step in the build manual is the PS foot box. NOW, here is where the fun started for me. Since none of the front half sheet metal was installed from FF and the shipping team, I had to find and figure out which panel is which and figure out what side goes on top. These are the white powder coated 20th Aniv panels so I laid them all out on the floor under the body and then using a combination of the build manual photos as well as a complete sheet metal "map" I found, I was able to start figuring out whats what.
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The PS Foot Box assembly has started. Now, it's well past my bed time. I'm looking forward to a 3 day weekend, Fri - Sun and plan to get about 27-30 hours of time in on the build... I'm excited to see what's next...

[BadAsp427]

Today I was able to get a good 8 straight hours of work completed on the build. All of it revolved around the use of a drill, clekos, sealer, vacuum, and a rivet gun... I completed the passenger side foot box, the PS floor, the driver's side floor and inside & bottom of the DS Foot Box. That's it... yup, took me about 7 total working hours. Had to take a break for some pizza...

Only little problem I had is that the build manual I have did not tell me to install the PS Foot Box Bottom, ever... It should have gone on before the sides so I had a little fun getting it in after having all ready installed the sides and PS floor. It's all good, came out nice. And as far as fitment goes, I only had to do a minor adjustment on one panel on the DS for a weld. It was all ready notched out for it, just not enough. Simple fix and all is good...

I also ordered the battery box from FFMetal so I hope to have it in time to work on the trunk. I'm trying to find a trunk kit to lower the trunk bottom and have tried to contact Russ Thompson, no luck as of yet.

Tomorrow the manual has me starting on the back of the cabin.

QUESTION: other than FFMetal and Russ Thompson, are there any other reputable suppliers of sheet metal mods for the MK4? I'm looking for a drop trunk mod, perhaps a storage box between the seat backs. Also just wanting to see what else is out there that I could consider.

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[DadofThree]

Looks good, but don't get too carried away with the aluminum right now. Keeping it bare was a great advantage for installing brake lines, fuel lines, electrical, pinion angle, driveshaft, etc.

I'd also advise that you don't fasten on the back wall until the trunk deck aluminum is installed. If you place that wall on there, you won't be able to reach the rivets for the trunk floor, and drilling the holes for the roll bar could be a little more difficult.

John Sitton did a good right up on his trunk expansion project found HERE (https://www.ffcars.com/forums/5084425-post158.html)

The pass through is easy to fabricate. It's just an aluminum wall set back about 8 inches from the back of the cabin. I cut mine out with a 6" hole saw on the ends, and a skill saw to finish the horizontals. I can come by sometime and you can check it out if you want. I don't use it as much as I thought I would.

[Fixit]

I was "talking" to Russ this evening (email). I've had my steering hub over to him for the turn signal mods, and ordered his dropped trunk kit at the same time (a few weeks ago). He was "out of country" for awhile on business, and is catching up on orders/emails. He'll get back to you - be patient.

I just finished installing/fitting the "Breeze" trunk divider/cubby-hole kit tonight. I've only done the trunk compartment panel - haven't cut the rear cockpit wall yet. I've got too many ideas kicking around for what to do on a possible access door/hatch for the compartment (other than a hole).

[BadAsp427]

Looks good, but don't get too carried away with the aluminum right now. Keeping it bare was a great advantage for installing brake lines, fuel lines, electrical, pinion angle, driveshaft, etc.

I'd also advise that you don't fasten on the back wall until the trunk deck aluminum is installed. If you place that wall on there, you won't be able to reach the rivets for the trunk floor, and drilling the holes for the roll bar could be a little more difficult.

John Sitton did a good right up on his trunk expansion project found HERE (https://www.ffcars.com/forums/5084425-post158.html)

The pass through is easy to fabricate. It's just an aluminum wall set back about 8 inches from the back of the cabin. I cut mine out with a 6" hole saw on the ends, and a skill saw to finish the horizontals. I can come by sometime and you can check it out if you want. I don't use it as much as I thought I would.

Thanks Dad... I was actually thinking of stopping on the panels for now and starting on all of the wiring and tubing because it seems like it will be much easier. I'm just thinking that if I do that, I may put something in the way of where a panel is suppose to go. I'm sure I can figure it out. And you are always welcome. I'll be in the garage for the full day Sat/Sun almost always.

[BadAsp427]

I was "talking" to Russ this evening (email). I've had my steering hub over to him for the turn signal mods, and ordered his dropped trunk kit at the same time (a few weeks ago). He was "out of country" for awhile on business, and is catching up on orders/emails. He'll get back to you - be patient.

I just finished installing/fitting the "Breeze" trunk divider/cubby-hole kit tonight. I've only done the trunk compartment panel - haven't cut the rear cockpit wall yet. I've got too many ideas kicking around for what to do on a possible access door/hatch for the compartment (other than a hole).

Sounds good Fixit, I'll check out the Breeze and hope to hear from Russ soon!

[BadAsp427]

This weekend I was fortunate enough to get to work most of Fri and all of Sat/Sun on the build. While I don't have a lot to list, I did get a lot completed. So on Friday I worked on the Fuel system. Everything from the tank to the firewall. While I'm not 100% sure, I believe the intake line to the carburetor is on the drivers side, so that is what I planned for. I figured I can always shorten it up if needed.

I mounted the FF provided filter just in front of the fuel tank on the PS. I liked this location because it appears that I will be able to reach straight up from below, just in front of the IRS to change it should I need. I also trimmed the large hose type clamp that holds the filter to the bracket. Cleaned it up with a grinder and I think it came out pretty nice.
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Next I took the hard vinyl line (provide by FF) and sliced it on the sides and removed the fitting that go onto the tank pickup and into the filter and replaced the vinyl with normal fuel line. Was able to make for a nice clean install doing it this way.
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Then I ran the hard line from the filter out side (via short rubber hose) down the main frame and along the outside of the 4" tube. Stopped just under the drivers seat where I mounted my electric fuel pump. Then continued on to the front. Up into the engine compartment, up along the PS frame, across the trans tunnel and terminated it there for now. I learned that it is easiest to use a piece of coat hanger wire to pre-shape the bends and such and then using that model, start the tube bending. Overall I'm happy with what I completed, and I guess as they say that is what matters...
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I'm also taking the time to paint all of my fuel and brake lines with a color-match paint that is very close to the color of the gray powder coat of the 20th Anniversary chassis. (I have looked everywhere for the rustoleum wheel paint in graphite that EdwardB found with no luck) This stuff I have is very close.

[BadAsp427]

On Saturday while installing the brake reservoir I discovered that the white powder coated pedal box front plate was actually the one for a donor car pedal box. Well, I'm not going to take that thing out so I figured a way to make it all work and look good. IMO. I fabricated a small plate that I put between the white powder coated panel and the solid steel pedal box front. I was planning to mount the FF provided Chrome Brake Fluid Reservoir there anyway and this actually allowed me to put it where I wanted. (couldn't do to the hole that is there for the donor car pedal box.) So, found some primer/top coat flat white that matched very well, taped it all of and painted the areas that were not covered with the powder coated panel. Ran the reservoir to master cylinders tubing (FF provide Red Color) I cleaned the tubing with acetone and it took all of the lettering off of it and cleaned the look up pretty good. All in all the Reservoir install came out pretty nice IMO.
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Next I tackled the hard lines. I only did the front lines today. Mounted the flex lines, brackets and bent and installed the hard lines from the .75" M/C down the frame rail to just next to the DS wheel, "T" off and followed the frame rails down, around and over to the PS. I was able to follow the frame pretty close and I believe it should be safely out of the way of the engine when that is installed.
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[Papa]

Hey Carl,

You aren't wasting any time getting that car together. One caution for you on your fuel pump. Be super careful when drilling to mount your seats that you don't drill into the pump or fuel lines.

Dave

[BadAsp427]

The other night I woke up about 3:30am and couldn't sleep. So what you say. Well I did not remember it, but I had ordered for about $8.00 the vent tube for the IRS differential. Fast forward 3 days and the part arrived. I had no idea what it was until I opened it and remembered that I had ordered it. It is a vinyl tube that is custom fit to the mustang. I used a heat gun and softened it up a bit and straightened it. I also was able to remove the vent end, and cut the vinyl a little shorter and installed the tube up along one of the angled frame rails. Nice, simple and clean install.

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[BadAsp427]

So I was getting all the parts set up to run the E-Brake cable and start that install. Only problem, no E-Brake cable. In fact it is not even listed on the inventory lists. I have all the hardware, but no cable. What a bummer, another item I will have to try and get FF to help me with. They have been great so far concedering that I'm actually the 2nd owner of this kit.

And next, I was going to install the adapter plate to the pinion shaft. Wrong one. It will not fit. I read something about two different adapter plates, one for an Automatic Trans Vehicle and one for a Manual Trans Vehicle. I guess I got the other one.

Either way, I've emailed FF Dave B and hopefully he will be able to rescue me...
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So that concluded the week... This coming week I plan to tackle the rear brake hard lines, start putting in the wiring harness. I've also ordered the Trunk Battery Box, Lowered Trunk Floor as well as the E-Power Steering system. I should also be getting some information about the shipment of my Eng/Trans from BluePrint.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I mounted the FF provided filter just in front of the fuel tank on the PS...Then I ran the hard line from the filter out side (via short rubber hose) down the main frame and along the outside of the 4" tube. Stopped just under the drivers seat where I mounted my electric fuel pump...

You really shouldn't do that. The filter should be after the pump, not before, so that fuel is being pushed through under positive pressure not drawn through by negative pressure.

Perhaps it was different with the Anniversary cars but all of the complete kits that I have built did not include parking brake cables.

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

You really shouldn't do that. The filter should be after the pump, not before, so that fuel is being pushed through under positive pressure not drawn through by negative pressure.

Perhaps it was different with the Anniversary cars but all of the complete kits that I have built did not include parking brake cables.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I am wondering if the reason they had the fuel pump mounted there was because many applications have the fuel pump in the tank. This pump and the required warranty has the small pre-filter going into the pump,. I suppose I will have to look into this a little bit closer. It would not be a very difficult procedure to relocate the filter, but I really like the clean Install that I have. Thanks again I’ll look into it. As far as the brake cable goes that is awfully odd, they included a fan belt and a conical air filter that has nothing to do with this car and many other parts but they don’t include a break Cable!

[edwardb]

So I was getting all the parts set up to run the E-Brake cable and start that install. Only problem, no E-Brake cable. In fact it is not even listed on the inventory lists. I have all the hardware, but no cable. What a bummer, another item I will have to try and get FF to help me with. They have been great so far concedering that I'm actually the 2nd owner of this kit.

And next, I was going to install the adapter plate to the pinion shaft. Wrong one. It will not fit. I read something about two different adapter plates, one for an Automatic Trans Vehicle and one for a Manual Trans Vehicle. I guess I got the other one.



Thanks Jeff. I am wondering if the reason they had the fuel pump mounted there was because many applications have the fuel pump in the tank. This pump and the required warranty has the small pre-filter going into the pump,. I suppose I will have to look into this a little bit closer. It would not be a very difficult procedure to relocate the filter, but I really like the clean Install that I have. Thanks again I’ll look into it. As far as the brake cable goes that is awfully odd, they included a fan belt and a conical air filter that has nothing to do with this car and many other parts but they don’t include a break Cable!

My 20th Anniversary kit also missed the e-brake cables. Not on any paperwork. A call and they were sent. For the diff adapter, there are two versions. One for an iron case diff (manual transmission Mustang) and one for an aluminum case diff (automatic trans Mustang). Since FFR provided the diff in your case, they should have supplied the proper adapter. Hopefully they will take care of you.

For the pump, listen to Jeff. Put the filter downstream from the pump. You're right, very high percentage of builds are using an in-tank fuel pump (when needed) so the location you have would be OK for that. But for an external pump, you'll need to change it up. Easier to do right now than later.

[Higgybulin]

Check the specs on that fuel pump. I know the summit, Edelbrock and others like that are only good for up to about 300HP. Don't wanna starve that V8 when it wants to drink!!!
Higgy

[BadAsp427]

Check the specs on that fuel pump. I know the summit, Edelbrock and others like that are only good for up to about 300HP. Don't wanna starve that V8 when it wants to drink!!!
Higgy

Good call! It claims 38GPH @ 8psi.

[BadAsp427]

My 20th Anniversary kit also missed the e-brake cables. Not on any paperwork. A call and they were sent. For the diff adapter, there are two versions. One for an iron case diff (manual transmission Mustang) and one for an aluminum case diff (automatic trans Mustang). Since FFR provided the diff in your case, they should have supplied the proper adapter. Hopefully they will take care of you.



So, great news, as expected, FFR continues their high level of customer service and are sending me an E-Brake cable and the correct adapter plate. Only thing from me was to pay the freight. (Need to remember, this kit was bought 3 years ago by a different person, and they are still treating me like I bought it from them) Great company and support...

[BadAsp427]

The build is on hold while we hunker down and wait for Florence to move through. Our area is under evacuation orders. I’ll be staying as I work at a Gibbon sanctuary and the 36 gibbons there require care Storm or not. www.ippl.org

[Higgybulin]

Hang in there!!!!! Best wishes to everyone down there and good luck to all that are staying home!!
Higgy

[BadAsp427]

Today, as we wait for the very slow and indecisive hurricane Florence to figure out where she is going to go I decided to put a little more time on the build. I finished up the brake lines by getting in the rear lines from the master cylinder to the back Driver Side and crossed over to the Passenger Side. Overall the install looks clean and good. I have one coupling that I have to buy to actually button up the system and be able to pressure test it with some fluid, but all in all it is done.

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Now, according to the build manual(s) it is saying my next step is the wiring. I guess I will get started on that next. Not sure when next will be but should not be long after Florence makes her appearance. But like a bad mother in-law, she seems to want to take her time getting here and most likely will take her time leaving.

I've also ordered and should receive after this storm the lowered trunk kit from Russ Thompson (http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/russ_garage.htm) The battery box from FFMetal (http://ffmetal.com/#bb) and the Electric Power Steering kit from EHanson007 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21719-New-Electric-Power-steering-kit-for-the-roadster-New-Bracket-design-Photos-are-back!&p=245722&viewfull=1#post245722)here on the forums. I'm also planning to modify and build my own cubby hole between the seats before the next step.

I'm planning to use the Lizard Skin Sound and Heat treatments on the interior panels after getting the trunk all completed. After the Electric, the build manual is calling for drive train install. I can't really be that close to that... I know I have a lot of panels to get in the back.

Should I get the electric wiring harness all run before the lizard skin???

[Fixit]

I just posted a few updates starting here... (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365&p=339747&viewfull=1#post339747)

These may sway your decision about applying the lizard goo.

[BadAsp427]

I just posted a few updates starting here... (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27544-The-40-Watt-Garage-9365&p=339747&viewfull=1#post339747)

These may sway your decision about applying the lizard goo.

I had just posted my post when I then read yours... We are running pretty close to each other and I really like the way that you are documenting things. Thanks

[BadAsp427]

As Hurricane/Tropical Storm Florence creeps along toward the Charleston/Summerville SC area, I continued working on the build. Today I laid out and positioned the wiring harness. First thing I discovered is that I did not realize that the main harness also goes into the area of the Master Cylinders. My vibration coils in my brake lines had to be "tweaked" a bit to give room, but not to much. Also, the build manual (wire harness manual) says to run the Alternator Wires, Sending Unit Wires and then the Starter Wires all through the hole under the 2x2 frame bar on the inside of the DS foot box. Yeah, about that. The hole is about 1" in diameter. The connectors on the ends of the wires will not fit, not to mention there is not enough room for all the wires to fit. In all fairness, the build manual does say you may need to open the hole up to fit. (you think????) So, I opened it up and also cut a separate hole specifically for the rear wire harness. So at the moment, everything seems to route well and until the motor is in place I will just leave everything hanging. But at this point all of the harness is in the general area of where it will eventually remain. I have used zip ties, but the plan will be to put the harness in permanent clamps along the route of the run.

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So tomorrow as the rain continues to pour, I plan to work on the build, not sure just what at this time. My drop trunk, Battery Box and E-PAS are all in shipment and on hold by FedEx, UPS and USPS due to the storm. I do have some nutserts to install, that will keep me busy for an hour or so...

[BadAsp427]

So the rain from Tropical Storm Florence was non-stop today and so was my work on the build. I worked on 3 items today. 1st, I installed the Heater/Defroster heater core and blower motor to the firewall as well as the wiper motor. I've left the wiring part of those jobs for another day once I get the dash installed. 2nd I, temporarily, with clekos, installed all of the trunk sheet metal and the drivers compartment sheet metal. I would say that was a good 6-7 hours of my day. Drilling and installing clekos... It was a tough day on the 1/8" drill bits... not normal for me to brake them, but I broke about 7 or 8 today. I did not want to put any rivets in today as I have the drop trunk and battery box coming. I'm also going to be creating my very own cubby hole modification so I will need to be able to take all that stuff out to work on it.

And 3rd, I started a cool modification to the vinyl padded dash glove box...I will post the complete modification as soon as it is completed, perhaps tomorrow.

Nothing special about my sheet metal work, except I made it a point to drill only where I will need rivets after the drop trunk and battery box modifications are done.

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With all of this done, I should be ready to make the drop trunk and battery box modifications just as soon as they arrive. I'm hoping to be able to use the scrap sheet metal from those two mods to build my cubby.

Coming in this weeks shipments I have both of my Chrome Roll Bars, Battery Box, Drop Trunk, Elec Power Steering Mod Kit, Drive Shaft Adapter plate, E-Brake Cable. Those Items should keep me busy for the week and into next weekend.

Here is a Sneak Peak of my Glove Box Mod:
93613

[BadAsp427]

Was able to put in another full day of work on the build. I went out and picked up a 3/16" union for my rear brake line and installed that. That concludes the brake system, now I just need to go pick up some brake fluid. What do you well experienced guys suggest for brake fluid? The Wilwood instructions talk about Hi Temp fluid. I'll need to do a little research as the best I've ever used in my cars and my simple race car was DOT4.

I also finished the front wire harness run through the cover plate on the front of the foot box and down the 3/4" frame to the bottom and accross the front to the PS. Nothing earthshaking there, just followed the build manual.

Now the modification I've been excited to work on. In the 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4, they provide the vinyl padded dash and I'v chosen to use it. The problem is it comes with a full glove box. I suppose that is not the real problem. The real problem is that I also have the heater/defroster upgrade and it installs directly behind the glove box area and uses nearly 95% of the area that would normally be used by the glove box. So the challenge for me was to create a glove box that was functional, looked correct and still allowed the heater/defroster system. I think I've done this. Now the glove box will only have room to hold a pair of gloves if needed.... wasn't that what a glove box was for??? Anyway, I'm thinking this will be a great place to put my registration, insurance, etc papers.

Here is the modification. So as it happens, the deepest that the box can be is the depth of the dash board flange. In other word, all I'm really doing is putting a flat back on the dashboard and creating about a 1" deep box. I started by figuring out how to cut the very back of the box off of and still give myself something to work with to attach it to the dash board flange.

I taped off around the box portion and tried to draw an even line all the way around the box. This was going to be my cut line. Once that was done, I put a cutting bit on my drimal tool and made a test cut in a part of the box that was going to be waste. I actually slowed the speed down from the 10 setting to about the 4 setting. I found it did not melt the vinyl as much and also allowed me to control the cut much better. I started the cut and went very slowly, carefully trying to stay just next to my line. It actually went pretty well. Once I completed the full cut, I then used my orbital palm sander with some 120 grit and smoothed out my cut on the glove box back that I just created. I then test fit it down into the dashboard glove box hole and checked fit. Perfect.

Next I followed the glove box build instructions and installed the hinges and the glove box front exactly the way described in those instructions. I may have used a little too much epoxy glue on the one hinge, but I'm not going to loose any sleep over this. I would tell you that if you are installing the hinges as described in the instructions, be sure to remove the tape while the epoxy is still soft. I waited and had to use my drimal tool to cut the epoxy next to the hinge so that I could pull up the tape. It was easy, but just an extra step I could have avoided if I had thought about it.

After the hinges epoxy set up, about 5 hours, I started on the back. I realized that I was going to have to notch it for the hinges to go through so it was a simple mark and cut with the drimal tool. Just a small notch for each hinge. Then I pushed the new back in from the back of the dash board. Took a little work as it is actually slightly expanding the flange on the back of the glove box. But it fit in perfect, I then used a straight edge and pushed the back in until it was flush with the flange on the dash board, Ie, the box was literally only as deep as the flange. I was not really sure how I was going to attach the back to the flange, but decided on 4 1/8" rivets, in the corners.

I completed the modification with the installation of the key lock and latch as described in the instructions. I had to grind the latch some because it was actually pushing against the newly installed back and this caused the lock to have way too much play in it. In addition to the grinding, I also had to bend it back into the box a little to get the adjustment the way I wanted.

I put it up on the dash hoop in the approximate position that I think it will be and I may still need to bring the back of the box in just a little, but as it is now I think it is going to fit perfect. Seems the back of the heater box is not flat, but actually intrudes toward the glove box. It's tight, but I think this is going to work great. If I do have to move the back, it is just 4 rivets and the latch screws and then re-drill for the new position and reinstall the latch and rivets.

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[shark92651]

For brake fluid I used the Wilwood 600 exp plus in mine. You are making great progress. I'm ready to drop the motor in mine in about 2 weeks when I have time and my help is available.

[BadAsp427]

Booby Prize for anyone who sees what was done incorrectly....

Extra Credit if YOU did it also while installing the FFMetal Battery Box!!!

93763


I'm just glad I caught my error before I drilled and riveted in the box to the 3/4" frame rail... No harm no foul in this case..

[Higgybulin]

The long back brace is in upside down. The tabs are supposed to be under the 1x1 tube at the ends.

[JoeAIII]

I've always used valvoline syntech brake fluid in my fast cars. Very high boiling point and can be had cheap at almost any auto parts store.
If you boil that stuff you have the wrong pads, not the wrong fluid IMO.

[BadAsp427]

So I just spent the day with my head in my hands and did not really get a lot done. I mounted my dash with Clekos and inserted threadserts, I'm going to use shinny stainless allen head screws to mount the dash, Mounted the gauges into the dashboard and then hit a brain stoppage. I do not get overwhelmed very easy and not sure why I am now. I guess it is just that I only have one shot at drilling holes in this 20th anv dash and do not want to screw it up. So, here is a edited photo of the dash with the gauges, horn button, ignition key and headlight switch actually installed. EVERYTHING else is "Photoshop" on to it in what I'm thinking of for my layout. I have the L/R turn / high beam indicators above the steering column, I have the L/R Turn switch and Hazard switch to the left of the Tach... Next to the Headlight switch, is the wiper switch and next to that the Heater/Defrost Switch. I have also planned to put the Red warning light between the small gauges, most likely hooked up to the ALT, but I'm thinking that I may be able to actually hook it up so that if any of the gauges (Oil Pressure, ALT or Water temp) need warning it will come on... Now, I have two more switches in the kit that I do not know what they are for... Simple on/off SPST switches... ????

Also, if someone who has installed the FFR Vintage Gauges can help me understand the connection to the wiring harness. I'm I just going to be cutting off the snap connectors and hard wiring them to the RF harness? I thought for sure these would be a little bit more PNP. The only instructions I have are for connecting it to a Mustang harness and I can not seem to find any instructions as to the hook up to the RF harness.

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[Papa]

I thought those 20th Anniversary gauges had the Hi/Beam and L/R indicators in the speedo. My vintage gauge set has them and that really helps keep the dash clean. The only hole I drilled other than mounting holes was for the turn signal switch. I mounted my wiper and hazard switches in the dash braces since I hope never to need either. Also, unless you simply prefer your layout, the speedo and tach gauges are typically in the opposite locations you have them in now. There should be some daisy chain light and power wires with plugs in the box with the gauges. I suggest downloading the latest revision of the RF dash wiring manual from FFR's web site. They've made several improvements in the manual compared with earlier ones.

Dave

[BadAsp427]

I thought those 20th Anniversary gauges had the Hi/Beam and L/R indicators in the speedo. My vintage gauge set has them and that really helps keep the dash clean. The only hole I drilled other than mounting holes was for the turn signal switch. I mounted my wiper and hazard switches in the dash braces since I hope never to need either. Also, unless you simply prefer your layout, the speedo and tach gauges are typically in the opposite locations you have them in now. There should be some daisy chain light and power wires with plugs in the box with the gauges. I suggest downloading the latest revision of the RF dash wiring manual from FFR's web site. They've made several improvements in the manual compared with earlier ones.

Dave

Thanks Dave,
Do you have a close up photo of your spedo? IE can you see the turn indicators in there with out being lit up? The Tach and Spedo are in the same location as the FFR 20th and several other builds I have seen.... I thought the idea of the backwards spedo was so that the two of them come up from opposite sides together... or something like that.

Here are photos of theirs. I did rearrange the small gauges to my liking. I can also see in the one photo that they have small turn signal lights just above the steering column. I don't think these gauges have them.
CLICK HERE 94010 (https://www.factoryfive.com/galleries/mk4/20th-anniversary-special-edition-mk4-roadster/)


I do have the daisy chain part hooked up. But the RF harness just has the blue connectors on the ends of every wire where the gauges have their own connectors. I'll do some looking for a more up to date manual.

[Papa]

Thanks Dave,
Do you have a close up photo of your spedo? IE can you see the turn indicators in there with out being lit up? The Tach and Spedo are in the same location as the FFR 20th and several other builds I have seen.... I thought the idea of the backwards spedo was so that the two of them come up from opposite sides together... or something like that.

Here are photos of theirs. I did rearrange the small gauges to my liking. I can also see in the one photo that they have small turn signal lights just above the steering column. I don't think these gauges have them.
CLICK HERE 94010 (https://www.factoryfive.com/galleries/mk4/20th-anniversary-special-edition-mk4-roadster/)


I do have the daisy chain part hooked up. But the RF harness just has the blue connectors on the ends of every wire where the gauges have their own connectors. I'll do some looking for a more up to date manual.

Here is a picture of my gauges. You can see the indicators on the speedo:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84563&d=1524421408

As for the connectors on the gauges for the sending units, I believe the newer RF harness has the plugs, mine did. You can always add them to match the gauges or simply cut them off and use a different connector of your choice.

As for the layout, I guess that really does come down to preference. The picture on the gauge wiring book has them with the speedo on the left, but I can't find any real reference to "correct" position. I suppose if you plan to race the car it would make more sense to have the tach in the most prominent position. For a street car, it makes sense to swap them.

[BadAsp427]

Thanks Dave,
I just went out with a fresh set of eyes... The gauges came with a cable and sending unit for each one. First, I forgot the cables were in there and second when I thought of them, I thought they were some kind of special coaxial type cable. I can see now that I just have to clip off the connector on the dash board end and connect them to the RF Harness and at the other end of the harness, the same thing with the connector designed for the sender. Yup, my gauges do not have the indicators built in. That's ok. I'm going to mount the one push button for the setting of the clock and one for the spedo on the dash support just above my right leg/trans tunnel. Were you able to make the dimmer work through the headlight switch or did you leave it on the small knob that came with the gauges?

[Papa]

Thanks Dave,
I just went out with a fresh set of eyes... The gauges came with a cable and sending unit for each one. First, I forgot the cables were in there and second when I thought of them, I thought they were some kind of special coaxial type cable. I can see now that I just have to clip off the connector on the dash board end and connect them to the RF Harness and at the other end of the harness, the same thing with the connector designed for the sender. Yup, my gauges do not have the indicators built in. That's ok. I'm going to mount the one push button for the setting of the clock and one for the spedo on the dash support just above my right leg/trans tunnel. Were you able to make the dimmer work through the headlight switch or did you leave it on the small knob that came with the gauges?

You will want to have the small dimmer in a place that you can use it. The headlight switch will not properly dim the gauges. Also, I believe Speedhut can add the indicators to your gauges for a small fee if you wanted to go that route. Oh, the coax cable that is in with the gauges is the GPS antenna. It will screw onto the back of your speedo.

[edwardb]

Looks like most of your questions have been answered. But several comments. Since the 20th Anniversary edition was released a couple years ago, indicator lights were added to the gauges from Speedhut. Yours (like mine) doesn't have them. Also since then the Ron Francis harness has undergone a pretty major revision. It is definitely more PNP now with the Speedhut gauges. But lots of builds have been completed with your revision of the harness and the Speedhut gauges. There are a number of threads that give wire-by-wire details. But it's pretty straightforward if you follow the schematic. Hopefully you have the specific Ron Francis harness instruction book. It's separate from the FFR build manual. Has some detail about the gauges, but mostly it shows Autometer gauges so not too helpful. Some guys take the provided Speedhut cables all the way to the dash and the instruments. I prefer to take the Speedhut cables to the gauge sending unit wires in the RF harness. Then the dash can be unhooked with just the RF connectors. But your choice and either works.

That dash is the "street" layout as you probably know. Traditionally the speedo is all the way on the left and the tach on the right. Check some vintage pictures. But do it the way you like. For your other gauges, I personally would put the oil pressure and water temp gauges in the most prominent locations. They're probably the two most important gauges of all of them. Agree you want the pushbutton for the speedo and dimmer for the gauges in a handy location. I like to put them along the bottom edge of the dash under the speedo and headlight switch. Makes logical sense, handy, and not real prominent. For these gauges, the LED needles are always on with the dash lights and not dimmable. The backlight is only dimmable using the provide inverter and knob. The headlight dimmer isn't functional with these gauges other then to turn the courtesy lights on and off. I like to put the pushbutton for the clock in the glovebox. Out of sight but easy to reach when needed.

[BadAsp427]

The headlight dimmer isn't functional with these gauges other then to turn the courtesy lights on and off. I like to put the pushbutton for the clock in the glovebox. Out of sight but easy to reach when needed.

Thanks Paul,
I was just looking at the most recent RF manual on FFR Instructions page. I think that the lights will actually dim with the headlight switch. At least according to page 55, 56 of the instructions. That would be kinda cool, but I'm not really that concerned as to how I dim them. They actually reccommend to turn the small knob to full clockwise and zip tie it up with all the rest of the wires in the dash and just use the headlight switch. RF Manual (https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Chassis-Harness-rev-T.pdf)

I've got my head around this now and will have it all wired up in the morning. Now I just have to get some power for my E-power steering hooked up and ready for that unit to get installed. All the rest of the electrical I think I have either installed or just laying there waiting.

[BadAsp427]

That dash is the "street" layout as you probably know. Traditionally the speedo is all the way on the left and the tach on the right. Check some vintage pictures. But do it the way you like.

I guess it is all up to the builder. But it just seemed that all the dashes that were similar to mine had the spedo on the right and I guess I just got used to that idea. I just went to the FFR page and looked at the gallery of their Mk4s and all of them have the spedo on the right side of the tach. I think that if it is a "street" version, the Spedo is more important and if you were looking to race, the Tach would be best to be the most prominent.

So question, using three diodes, do you think I could hook up "idiot light" wires to one light from all three circuits? Charging, Oil Pressure and Water Temp? I guess I would have to have separate sending units for the lights though.... Hmmmm

[edwardb]

I was just looking at the most recent RF manual on FFR Instructions page. I think that the lights will actually dim with the headlight switch. At least according to page 55, 56 of the instructions. That would be kinda cool, but I'm not really that concerned as to how I dim them. They actually recommend to turn the small knob to full clockwise and zip tie it up with all the rest of the wires in the dash and just use the headlight switch.

Well, that's nice but it's wrong. The backlighting on those gauges is AC powered panels. Speedhut has technical details on their website. It only dims with the inverter and the variable knob included with the gauges. The only thing turning the headlight knob does is vary DC voltage, which turns the Speedhut backlighting from full on to full off when it falls below a certain threshold. You don't have to take my word for it. You'll find out for yourself when you wire it up and see how it works. Pretty sure this error in the manual has been discussed before BTW.

Speaking of the manual, I'd encourage again to be careful with that version of the manual. The harness you have with your kit is the earlier version, and I'd recommend using the harness manual that came with your kit. I received the new version of the harness and manual with my Gen 3 Coupe kit, and I've had the chance to compare the two side-by-side. There are differences.

[BadAsp427]

That makes sense... Thanks again Paul... you are the best!!!

[edwardb]

I guess it is all up to the builder. But it just seemed that all the dashes that were similar to mine had the spedo on the right and I guess I just got used to that idea. I just went to the FFR page and looked at the gallery of their Mk4s and all of them have the spedo on the right side of the tach. I think that if it is a "street" version, the Spedo is more important and if you were looking to race, the Tach would be best to be the most prominent.

So question, using three diodes, do you think I could hook up "idiot light" wires to one light from all three circuits? Charging, Oil Pressure and Water Temp? I guess I would have to have separate sending units for the lights though.... Hmmmm

Clicked around just for grins looking at original Cobra pictures. For this dash layout, confirmed there are examples of both. Speedo on the right, speedo on the left. Same answer. Do it the way you want. As for adding idiot lights, the Speedhut gauges and sending units don't support them. There are aftermarket kits you can add, but require additional sending units, power, etc. Charging is relatively straightforward. Below a threshold voltage and light the light. But both oil pressure and water temp (especially oil pressure) can be all over the place, depending on engine temp, RPM, ambient temp, how hard you're pushing things, etc. IMO, there's no substitute for watching the gauges under various conditions and learning exactly how they operate "normally." You'll quickly become attuned to what that should be and should notice if something seems different. As far as lighting a single light from multiple sources, probably technically possible. But then you look at the gauges to see which one is causing the fault? Why not just watch the gauges? Personally, I kind of enjoy scanning the gauges while driving. Part of the whole experience seeing what's happening as well as making sure all is OK.

[BadAsp427]

This entire weekend was pretty much devoted to the dash and the wiring for the dash. This morning started out with a little cool look into the future. I have the gauges installed in the dash and hooked up the lighting wiring and brought the gauges to life, at least the lights.... and 20th Anniversary #008 looks alive... It was pretty cool, even had the GPS connected... I actually got a good bit done, but it is too late to really post it all here, but I will say it is looking good. I'll post much more tomorrow...

94058 94059

[740iLn]

This entire weekend was pretty much devoted to the dash and the wiring for the dash. This morning started out with a little cool look into the future. I have the gauges installed in the dash and hooked up the lighting wiring and brought the gauges to life, at least the lights.... and 20th Anniversary #008 looks alive... It was pretty cool, even had the GPS connected... I actually got a good bit done, but it is too late to really post it all here, but I will say it is looking good. I'll post much more tomorrow...

94058 94059


Nice job on that dashboard. It looks awesome!

[BadAsp427]

As indicated in the previous few posts I've been working on the dash board. To start off, I have the vinyl padded dash that came pre cut for the gauges. The only holes that I had to cut were for the turn & high beam indicator lights, the Turn & Hazard toggle switches and a hole for the Heater/Defroster control knob. I decided that I was not going to use the hidden fastener option and also had to drill the holes for the fasteners across the top of the dash into the dash hoop. Much like drilling into a completed paint job, it was a bit nerve racking to drill into this dash as there really isn't any easy fix for a mess up that can be covered so there was a lot of measuring and then just before I drilled, I measured a few more times. I guess the biggest thing about the dash is a lot of planning needs to go into this as there is a lot going on. Things like where the wiring harness is laying inside the firewall and where the connectors are at. Remember, that harness is not the most flexible and the less you have to bend it/them around the better and cleaner the area will look. (if there is such a thing as clean looking in there.) Also, the heater/defroster control cable is pretty stiff so I have not actually installed it just yet as I want to know exactly where my heater hoses and engine connections are going to be so I'm holding off on drilling into my firewall until my engine is here and I can either measure it or actually have it in place. But, all the wiring is ready.

Blank Dash and Gauges as delivered:
94199

So to start my dash, I actually took a bunch of pictures of each indicator light that I mounted into a piece of black plastic. (in my case it was some of my glove box modification left over plastic) I would use these photos in "Paint" to create a photo of what I would want my dash to look like in final set up. I do not have photo shop, that would have been much easier, but I made due and it actually came out pretty good.

This is the photo that I created by first taking a photo of the new dash with only the gauges installed in my desired location. And then using Paint, I inserted photos of all the other items. (note: I used text box to add the names, I will not be actually putting names on the finished dash)
94190
My final version looks very similar, I only made a couple changes to this. I decided to mount my wiper switch under the dash (do not hope to use it very often) and I also decided against the idiot red light in the middle of the gauges. Here is the final actual dash photo. Only thing missing is the heater control knob, but the hole is drilled. (more on that below)
94191

So let's talk about a couple items in this install that has cause me some grief, perhaps this will help you avoid the same grief.

First thing, at some point you will put your dash up on the dash hoop to "test fit" it. When you do this, be sure to mark the bottom of the hoop on the back of your dash so that you know where you can or better stated, can not put things. You will be surprised at just how far from the top of the dash back that you can not mount things. Now, I did NOT do that and paid the price in a couple small ways and got real lucky on a couple others.

The first problem actually was not my doing. With the dash in position, as described in the build manual, my tachometer (furthest large gauge to the left) actually has zero clearance to the bottom of the dash hoop with my fasteners are installed. I had to lower my nutsert to the very bottom of the hoop. Fortunately I had only drilled a single 1/8" hole before I discovered this issue so all was good in the end. But even with that 1/8" move, I have to have the gauge mounting color turned just right so that the little grip bumps do not hit the hoop. Whew, glad this worked out as I had all ready drilled my mounting hold through the dash front.

The second problem that I created for myself was that I mounted (epoxied) the small inverter for the gauge lights to the back of the dash board to help create a controlled/clean install. Well, when I did this, I put it on in an area that was "well below" the top of the dash. Actually, it was about 1/32nd of an inch too high and I have actually had to pry it off of the dash in order to mount it. But as it turned out, that is a good thing... (more on the in a minute)
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Ok, those where the two ahhh S#@$ moments...

One of the minor modifications I've had to make was for the hole that the heater/defroster knob is going to go through. This is a combo, turn switch with four positions, off-low-med-high fan speeds. And it is a push in and out for heat adjustment. This is a very stiff solid cable that will open and close the water valve to be attached later to the heater hose from the engine. So, on the vinyl dash it isn't the most conducive to this switch/cable combo. So I had to beef it up a little on the back. First thing to know is that the turning of the knob is actually pretty stiff between indents so they have a anti twist design with one edge of the attachment point flat. Ever drill a hole with a flat edge?
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To prepare for the mounting of this, I drilled the hole in the dash a little smaller than what my final size would be. Then I fabricated a backing plate out of aluminum that I epoxied onto the back of the dash. I then used my drimel tool to open the vinyl dash up to match. My hope is the combination of the dash and the aluminum will hold it all in place. Now, for whatever reason, the threaded area on the switch is only about 3/8" deep so it made it difficult to get a bite with the nut on the front side, but I got it to bite and was able to compress the dash padding and tighten it down. I think this will work ok and I'll have to mound a dash to fire wall support just under the switch location to prevent the dash from moving in and out as the heat is adjusted. In the photo, I had all ready used a razor blade to remove the excess epoxy that had "squeezed" out the holes I drilled for that purpose. The switch has a large flat body that those bumps interfered with. And another, I got lucky moment. I had not put the head light switch in before I measured and drilled the hole hole for the heater switch. I was very luck, it had room as the headlight switch is rather large. My saving grace was that I had just measure the distance between the factory holes for the horn, ignition and headlight switch and kept that distance the same between the headlight switch and my heater switch hole.
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So onto the wiring. Back in 2015 when this kit was originally ordered, the version of the Ron Francis Harness was not designed for the new style gauges and did not have the correct plugins. So I had to install connectors on each of my gauge sending unit wires a connector that would allow me to connect to the RF harness. Not a difficult task, just a bit time consuming as I did solder each of those connections as well as put heat shrink tubing on every one. Once my engine is here, I will get to do a similar task for each of the sending units. Here is what that wiring completed and zip tied/cleaned up looks like.
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Ok... so I eluded to a problem earlier in this post with the location of the gauge lighting inverter box that I had to remove to clear the dash hoop. After I had completed the task of actually hanging my dash in place, installing all the braces, fasteners and admiring my work from a distance, I put battery power to the RF wiring harness. (simulating connection to the starter and ground.) Great... no sparks... or smoke... I turned the key on and every thing looked good. The GPS Spedo acquired satellite, the volt gauge went up to correct voltage and the rest of the gauges made there little start up bump movement. All looks great. Then I pulled out the headlight switch to turn on the gauge lights. They came on, and looked great... Here is where I ran into a problem. When I tried to adjust the brightness of the gauges with the gauge control knob, they did not dim. They did nothing... but they sure looked good.
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When I fiddled with the wiring going to the back of the Potentiometer (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer) I found there was a bad factory connection internally. I found that if I held my left foot in one direction and put my finger in my right ear, the knob would then properly dim and control the lights. Bottom line, Speedhut is sending me a complete new harness assembly for my gauges. The bad news, I get to take the back of my dash / wiring apart and re-due it with the new harness... the good news, I get a second chance to epoxy the inverter to the back of my dash in a location that is about 1/8" lower then I had it in the first place....

Final installed photo:
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I'm so glad that this part of the build is 85% completed and out of the way. I actually enjoyed it, but I guess part of my problem was that I was a bit tired both days that I was working on it so I had a bit of a hard time wrapping my head around some aspects. Once I got to work on it with a fresh / clear, non fatigued brain, it wasn't that bad. I hope something in this post can help someone in the future...

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'd advise against making the inverter installation too permanent by means of epoxy, etc. As you've already found out they are prone to failure and this may not be the only one you'll have to replace (this is the voice of 3 bad ones speaking).

Jeff

[RRussellTx]

This is the photo that I created by first taking a photo of the new dash with only the gauges installed in my desired location. And then using Paint, I inserted photos of all the other items. (note: I used text box to add the names, I will not be actually putting names on the finished dash)
94190
My final version looks very similar, I only made a couple changes to this. I decided to mount my wiper switch under the dash (do not hope to use it very often) and I also decided against the idiot red light in the middle of the gauges. Here is the final actual dash photo. Only thing missing is the heater control knob, but the hole is drilled. (more on that below)
94191



In the spirit of learning from others, I have my turn switch mounted on the left side as well and I'm going to move it over to the center at some point.
The gymnastics involved with steering with the left hand and shifting with the right hand becomes unsafe when you have to switch steering hands to flip the signal switch. Keeping the left hand dedicated to the steering wheel is my advice.

Also, the left hand side of that dash gets very small and angled/tucked up under the body/door. You might consider dropping the body on to see how it fits over there.

Looking good!

[BadAsp427]

Went out to the garage tonight and started looking to see what the next step is going to be... Came back inside and ordered Lizard Skin. Read two full post from EdwardB on the stuff and ordered 2 gal of both the sound and the heat shields and the spray gun... It was about $75 less via Amazon vs Lizard Skin's site and free shipping... So I guess the next week will be spent buttoning up all the sheet metal panels, taking out all my dash and wire harness' and scuffing up aluminum panels to get it ready... I could possibly shoot the Lizard Skin in about 10 day... ie next weekend. I can't believe that only 6 weeks into the build and I'm all ready getting ready to spray this stuff... My BluePrint Engine is expected to ship on 10/1 as well.

I need to post updates on the Trunk Drop box, The Trunk battery Box install, foot mounted dimmer switch (Thanks Papa) and some other minor changes that I've made. I'll get those updates soon.

[BadAsp427]

Spent this afternoon working on the E-Brake system. I wanted to see how FF wanted it to be installed and ran the cable under the 4" frame tube. When it is run that way, not only does it look like a complete after thought, but it would cause the cables to rub drastically against a the very sharp edge of a large frame gusset that is there. I would guess it would not take more than 10-15 pulls on the E-brake handle to wear right through the outer plastic on the cable. I really do not understand why FF would expect any builder of one of these awesome cars to do that. I will be doing the rerouting mod that I know several have done. I'm following EdwardB's lead (CLICK HERE) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=225428&viewfull=1#post225428) and have ordered the Lokar Clevis from Summit and will install the pulley. Everything else on the E-brake is installed, just need to get that clevis and fit it all up.

As far as preparing the E-Brake handle, I did a few things to "improve" on it...

The first one is a slight modification that I have not seen anyplace else. I have seen comments that the ratchet teeth are soft and prone to wear down. Or at least I've seen several people caution about that. So I thought I would try and harden those teeth. I'm not a metallurgist, but I have hardened 16 penny nails to use as center punches and I've watched Forged in Steel on TV and I think I even stayed at a holiday in express once or twice.... either way, I heated the teeth area to red hot and held it there for about 10 minutes and then quenched it in Automatic Trans Fluid. I learned that that will quench at a slower rate than water... I don't know, but I did it and I'm certain the teeth are now harder than before. Then I cleaned all the bare metal parts with lacquer thinner and put 3 coats of dark metal rustoleum on them and put it all together.

As EdwardB showed in his thread, I replaced the plastic bushing with the bronze ones from my Hood Hinges. I did a bit of research in the build manual and it states that the hood hinges use 8 of those bushings, and as luck would have it, my hood hinge hardware had 10 in the bag. SCORE!!! A couple minutes on the grinder and the bronze bushings were just as thin as the plastic ones. Cleaned them up a bit with sandpaper and wire wheel and put a dab of white grease on the pivot bolt as I put the handle together.

The rest of the handle assembly went exactly as the build manual stated.
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[DavidW]

Just caught up on your build, great detail.

I would second not setting that inverter on the back of the dash in epoxy. I used a similar sized component for the automatic cancel turn signal and just used double sided tape and secured it to the frame under the dash, just in case in needed to be replaced I could remove it easily.

You may reconsider your speedo and tach position, it is much easier to see the tach on the right side if you really need to see it while going through the gears...high RPM. The speedo on the left doesn't let my wife see it.....

That's the best e-brake mod I've seen but I did it a little different and so far it works good.

Keep up the great details!

[BadAsp427]

Ok, so ever sence I started reading the Roadster build threads I've seen different mods for the Charcoal Fuel Vent Canisters. Most of them involve PVC tubing. I've been waiting to put my twist on this. But to do that I have to explain that about 3 years ago, my 2006 Ford Focus started having troubles with fueling it and I could only get a small amount (and only when done very slow) of fuel to go into the tank. It would take me 30 minutes to fill it up from 1/2 tank. My Focus had been totaled and it sat for about 8 months before I started to re-build it. What had happened is that the Charcoal Canister on it had clogged up with a mold type of growth. So I took it apart and dumped out all the charcoal and then chipped out the moldy part... then put the old, non contaminated charcoal back in, buttoned it all up and it's been great ever since. So I tell you this so you understand my thought on this little mod. First off, I will say that the charcoal in the focus was large pellets, not small grains as you find in most pet store fish filter set ups. Also the large pellet charcoal has very little dust. I did find the large pellet charcoal at a local pet store and grabbed it... You will see it in the photos.

So here goes my mod. I wanted to have a large volume/area for the air/fumes to pass through. I did not want a narrow 1" diameter tubing. So what I came up with is based on 3" PVC pipe fittings and a floor drain cap...
Here is a photo of 95% of the parts used to build my canister. (Note: I was planning to use the large hose clamp to mount it, that plan changed)
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The next thing I did was to drill out the cap, just in the middle of the square pipe wrench head to mount in the right angle barb fitting. This required a 5/8" hole so I took about 3 or 4 steps up to that size. Hint, mount the pvc cap in a vice as when the drill bit bites, it bites... One thing I also did is that I drilled out the brass fitting from both directions to make it as large as possible to allow for the best air flow possible.
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After getting the fitting threaded in to the pvc cap, I used it like a tap/die and it created some nice threads in the PVC. I then removed the brass fitting to be installed again later after paint...

Next I marked and cut out the scotch-brite pad to fit both the inside of the floor drain and the square in the screw in pvc cap. FYI, I put two layers of scotch-brite in both locations. Most likely over kill, but wanted to keep the charcoal inside.

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After all the pieces were pre-fit, I took it all apart and only put the pvc parts together, scuff sanded all of it and took the whole unit out to my "paint booth" ie my utility box trailer and put several coats of dark gray metallic paint on the unit. After the paint dried, brought it all back in and assembled with the charcoal in place. Also put two small brass screws through the pvc into the floor drain so that they would stay together, but still be able to dissemble in the event I need to clean it up someday. I did not use any pvc cement on this mod. Also, here is a good look at the large pellet charcoal.
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Next, I made a mounting bracket out of an extra dash board bracket that I had laying around, it could have been made from scratch. I used two self tapping screws to mount the bracket to the PVC and in my case, I mounted the unit to the side of my FFMetal battery box. I also had looked at mounting it to the square tube that the fuel tank straps attach to. I mounted it so that the top of the unit (floor drain side) would be about 1" below the upper trunk floor. I wanted it it up away from any debris that could be flying around in there from the tires. Then I simply attached the rubber hose from the top of the tank vent to the canister and that is my take on this modification... All so that I do not smell gas fumes when I'm filling up the tank... The things we do...
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Note: I did not put a hose clamp on the rubber hose to the canister on purpose. This is a very tight barb fit and very low pressure. I did not want to create any more work for myself in the future than necessary.

[Fixit]

It needs a sticker on it... "Mr. Fusion" 94356

[BadAsp427]

I've had my idea of what I want my cubby hole to be like and I came pretty close. I wasn't wanting one that went the full width of the car as I really did not like the idea of things getting lost in there and having to reach my whole arm in to find it... But I wanted a good amount of space for those things that you need space for. I think that the majority of women's purses can fit I think as well... not that I carry a purse or currently have a woman in my life, I want to be prepared...

So this is by far the largest sheet metal fabrication project that I have every taken on. And in fact with the exception of the dimmer switch bracket, it is my only sheet metal fabrication project that I can remember ever doing.

I started with making the decision as to the shape and location of the opening into the cockpit. I decided that I want to have a basic opening. I have still not decided on a door style or if I will even put one on. I'm thinking of just a black trim material to start with. I began the box with a cardboard template for the sides and then ended with a one piece top and back. I used the normal rivet hole separation just as all the other 83,008 rivets that the roadster has in the sheet metal uses. I will most likely permanently rivet all of the trunk and the cockpit in place tomorrow as I'm hoping to spray Lizard Skin next weekend.

I'll just post the photos as I think they are pretty self explanatory.. In photo #5 I have the side panels with the rivets set up to be on the outside of the cubby, in the trunk... I changed my mind midstream and swapped them so that the rivets will be on the inside of the cubby.

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[cv2065]

Looks great Carl! :cool:

[Fixit]

I think that the majority of women's purses can fit I think as well...

That'd be the whole trunk good sir...
Looks good! Nice job on the bending without a brake.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice work! Way, way back when I built my car I made one very similar but not quite as deep. I put a charging port inside and a door with a simple lock. Pretty handy to have :)

Jeff

[cgundermann]

Just caught up on your build, great detail.

I would second not setting that inverter on the back of the dash in epoxy. I used a similar sized component for the automatic cancel turn signal and just used double sided tape and secured it to the frame under the dash, just in case in needed to be replaced I could remove it easily.

You may reconsider your speedo and tach position, it is much easier to see the tach on the right side if you really need to see it while going through the gears...high RPM. The speedo on the left doesn't let my wife see it.....

That's the best e-brake mod I've seen but I did it a little different and so far it works good.

Keep up the great details!

Third on that; had to replace mine right after graduation. Speedhut immediately replaced it and indicated their new inverter is improved upon.

Chris

[BadAsp427]

My engine is scheduled to arrive tomorrow... 10/2/18...

94521

Until then, check out the torque on this thing...
I can't even imagine the pull this thing is going to have in the 2300 Lb roadster...
I'm grinning ear to ear...
LOL, I was so hoping for 427 HP or 427 Torque... just so I can call it a 427... but I guess 424 ft/lb peak torque is close enough to call it 427.. Perhaps the BluePrint dyno needs a bit of calibration... He He....

[David Hodgkins]

My engine is scheduled to arrive tomorrow... 10/2/18...

94521

Until then, check out the torque on this thing...
I can't even imagine the pull this thing is going to have in the 2300 Lb roadster...
I'm grinning ear to ear...
LOL, I was so hoping for 427 HP or 427 Torque... just so I can call it a 427... but I guess 424 ft/lb peak torque is close enough to call it 427.. Perhaps the BluePrint dyno needs a bit of calibration... He He....

Be careful with that thing and don't forget, the go-cart is even lighter!

RU excited, or what?

:)

[BluePrintEngines]

Maybe on the next one you can go with the 427.lol but for now, this thing is going to be awesome! !!! thanks again for the shoutout! and anything we can do going forward let us know!

Johnny@BluePrintEngines.com

[BadAsp427]

So most people get that exciting delivery of the Factory 5 Semi pulling up in their front drive to unload their roadster, giving them their first peek at the fun they are going to have. Well, I went a different route and bought my roadster 2nd hand and so I had to drive and pick it up, load it in my trailer and drive back with it... Not quite as exciting as waiting on the FF Semi. But today, I got mine... My 347ci beast from BluePrint engines showed up via the FedEx Freight Semi. Same concept, just a bit smaller in size... 831 lbs of box... I live in a quite, rural area where most people have dirt drives up to the house. I'm not the exception so the challenge was to get the beast to my garage, about 75 yards across the dirt/grass of my yard. The driver told me he could not do it and wanted to leave it next to the road in the dirt. I asked him to please at least try to use his pallet dolly to get it over to my garage area. He said he would go until it sank and if it was in the middle of the drive, it was on me. I said lets go. He turned it around and started pulling and myself and one other started pushing... We pushed it all the way to the garage area where it sank into the dirt...

So, now how do I get it into the garage... Simple I lift the entire crate up with the engine crane and set it in the bed of my pickup, then back my pick up up to the door of the garage and lift it off of the truck with the same crane... Except no, the crane has to be under the crate or it will tip forward and the ceiling will not allow me to lift it high enough. Bottom line, worked it out and did just as I said, but in baby steps... It is now in the garage, crate top off and on two sets of furniture dollies. I can move it around anywhere I need. And I just needed to take the photo of the engine with the chassis behind it and the body up and behind that...


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This photo is most likely the best photo of me and a genuine smile I've seen in a very long time...
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and the money shot!!!
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Also want to give a shout out to Dave ( DadOfThree) for allowing me to borrow his engine hoist for my build.... Had the chance to drive down to his cobra cave and pick it up this past weekend and spent a little time looking over his Mk3.

[Higgybulin]

Christmas in October!!!

[BadAsp427]

So I find myself with about an hour or so with nothing that I can do on the build... I just sprayed the first coat of Lizard Skin Sound Control (SC) and per the instructions I need to allow it to dry for a bit over an hour or so until I can put on the second coat. Here are some photos of my prep. While I do not think it was required, I scuffed up all of the surfaces that I was putting the Lizard Skin on to. The Powder Coated foot box and fire wall as well as all of the aluminum panels. I'm hoping to give the LS the best possible surface to adhere to. I then created a "paint booth" of sorts and following the LS instructions, sprayed my first coat. I used about 3 quarts of LS. Set my air pressure at 60 PSI and turned the nozzle out 2 turns exactly as the instructions suggested... I thought that was the perfect setting to splatter the coating on. Splatter is "Spray" in Lizard Skin speak!

I also followed the lead of EdwardB in his lizard skin application thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=232616&viewfull=1#post232616) and put on a second layer of tape so that I could pull off one layer before it hardens up completely and still leave the second layer there for spraying the ceramic heat control layer in about 36 hours. You can see the second layer of tape as it is the Light Blue tape...

Here are photos of all that I described above.

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[Fixit]

Looks Great!!
Points to you for re-purposing the 27 trees worth of kraft paper packaging for masking material!

[BadAsp427]

Looks Great!!
Points to you for re-purposing the 27 trees worth of kraft paper packaging for masking material!

Yes, I only have 7,238 feet of paper left...

[BadAsp427]

Ok the Lizard Skin job is complete. All the tape and paper removed and the "Paint Booth" is down. Now it's time to get back to it.

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[BadAsp427]

Today I received my tires and of course they went straight to the shop to have them mounted. That's a lot of meat... and they don't give them a lot of room between the tire and the springs... When all was done, I put them next to the BluePrint 347 in hopes that they would learn to get along... :-)

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[BadAsp427]

It's time... I have not posted a lot over the past few days, but the work has been continuing. After the Lizard Skin, I of course had to remove all the tape and paper. I received the new wire harness for my dash board from Speedhut and was able to get that installed. I've completed the riveting of the back trunk side pannels, Installed wiring for my 3rd brake lights that I installed in the top of both roll bars. Also pre-drilled the mounting holes for the roll bars so that I would not be drilling with the wires in place. Now its just a couple of quick connects and the wires will all be inside the bars, completely hidden. I picked up some really bright red LED clearance lights from a Flying J truck stop. (you can find a lot of cool things at the truck stops). I have also completed wiring for the Heater and the Wiper. Connected power and EVERYTHING Electrical is working as it should. :cool:

I also have been waiting for my engine to arrive before I cut holes in my firewall for engine wiring. So that is all completed as well.

I also applied Shark Hide on all the bare aluminum panels, not very many, but figured now is a good time and they will stay nice and shinny for awhile.

SO on to today's project. I'm going to rearrange my garage setup a little so that I can get the car down off the dolly and in roller configuration. That just means I'm going to move the body around and rather than going side to side in my garage, the car will be more angled toward the door. This will give me the room for the engine hoist and the BluePrint engine and trans. If all goes well I'll have the car all set up, rear end up in the air and ready to fit the power-train in place later this afternoon. I'm not in a rush, but dam I want it in there... LOL



Here are some photos I took around the car today 10/13/18 (56 days into my build) to show the progress up to this point.

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[Lancaster Lad]

Mr Badasp
I like the idea of third brake light connection inside of the roll bar tube, less chance of a snagged wire in trunk.

You may have a problem with the wires I think are for the high beam switch. Looks like the wires are in one
of the holes for the windshield bolts.

[BadAsp427]

You may have a problem with the wires I think are for the high beam switch. Looks like the wires are in one
of the holes for the windshield bolts.

Cool, thanks for letting me know... that is a VERY simple fix... just three quick disconnects... Thanks again.

[BadAsp427]

The garage is all rearranged and the car is off the dolly and on the ground... Whooooo HOOOOOO!!!!
And I also filled the Trans with fluid so that it is done and I don't forget it...

Kinda funny looking as the ride height has not been set, looks like it is ready to off road!!!

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[Jeff Kleiner]

Cool, thanks for letting me know... that is a VERY simple fix... just three quick disconnects... Thanks again.

But that bolt between the two holes will interfere with the windshield arm.

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

But that bolt between the two holes will interfere with the windshield arm.

Jeff

Another easy fix... that is my ground wire bolt... I can move it easily... thanks Jeff... I guess you never know what one thing will interfere with another... Uhggg!

[BadAsp427]

Honestly, All I was planning to do today was to get the motor up out of the crate and do some prep work. Put on the motor mounts, fill the transmission, look at other things like water line connections, remote oil filter mounting, etc... and then next thing I knew I was done installing the drive train...


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[Straversi]

Congratulations. Looks good in its new home.
-Steve

[cv2065]

Looks great! Did you have the rear end up at all for install? Still trying to figure out if there will be enough room in the back to drill for the Forte mechanical linkage mounts after the engine is in....

[BadAsp427]

Looks great! Did you have the rear end up at all for install? Still trying to figure out if there will be enough room in the back to drill for the Forte mechanical linkage mounts after the engine is in....

I just went out and took these two photos for you. I don't know exactly where the Forte Linkage goes, but I would say there should be room. I would guess you would need a right angle drill and perhaps a short drill bit. My hand is in the photo for size comparison. Also, both my firewall and the foot box side are in the FF position, no modifications to them.

And yes, I had the rear end up, supported by two jack stands 14" tall under the very rear of the 4" frame tube. Also had the front tires ea on a 2x6 (1 1/2" lift) so that the engine hoist could fit under the front of the car. I did this 100% alone so it was just slow and steady and I'm proud to say, not a single nick or bump on any of the car... The balance bar from HF was a huge help. I was able to put it in like a baby's foot into a grown ups shoe... (where did that come from)

Hope this helps...
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[cv2065]

I just went out and took these two photos for you. I don't know exactly where the Forte Linkage goes, but I would say there should be room. I would guess you would need a right angle drill and perhaps a short drill bit. My hand is in the photo for size comparison. Also, both my firewall and the foot box side are in the FF position, no modifications to them.

And yes, I had the rear end up, supported by two jack stands 14" tall under the very rear of the 4" frame tube. Also had the front tires ea on a 2x6 (1 1/2" lift) so that the engine hoist could fit under the front of the car. I did this 100% alone so it was just slow and steady and I'm proud to say, not a single nick or bump on any of the car... The balance bar from HF was a huge help. I was able to put it in like a baby's foot into a grown ups shoe... (where did that come from)

Hope this helps...
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Thanks for the pics Carl! Looks like a valve cover might need to come off. It's a variable bracket, so may just try and get it in before the engine comes. Again, nice work on the install. That's a big milestone. Look forward to your Go Kart start! Guess that will be what...tomorrow or Tuesday? :)

[BadAsp427]

Thanks for the pics Carl! Looks like a valve cover might need to come off. It's a variable bracket, so may just try and get it in before the engine comes. Again, nice work on the install. That's a big milestone. Look forward to your Go Kart start! Guess that will be what...tomorrow or Tuesday? :)

Perhaps next weekend....

[PeteMeindl]

Congrats, Badasp! Things look fantastic - and to have gotten this far in such little time, too! Nice going.

[BadAsp427]

Tonight I was able to do a few things on the build.
- I installed the Oil Filter relocation kit. I mounted it to the front cross bars as the build manual suggested. I did not like the very short screws that they sent with the mount that basically are self tapping so I drilled the holes and tapped them to accept a couple of nice allen button head stainless steel screws that I found in my stash of nuts and bolts.

-I also installed the clutch cable even though it may get rerouted once I actually have the headers here in few days...

-I also installed the water temp sensor.

Oil Relocation Kit:
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Water Temp Sensor:
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[DadofThree]

Looking Good Carl! Keep it up! Impressive pace of build! I need to get back over there to see it before you're finished in November!

[BadAsp427]

Looking Good Carl! Keep it up! Impressive pace of build! I need to get back over there to see it before you're finished in November!

Come on down.

[BadAsp427]

Tonight I ran all of the sensor wiring. For the most part it was pretty straight forward, and my main goal was to have as few wires as possible showing once everything was hooked up. To do this I'm running the wire harness down through the intake manifold and just bringing out the needed wire at the appropriate location. Everything went well with two minor exceptions.

1st, the water temp sensor that came with my 20th Anniversary Gauge kit is a two wire sensor. A black and white wire come out of the connector that snaps into the top of the sensor. However the Ron Francis harness only has one wire, happens to be a darkish blue wire that is marked for the water temp. Of course the other end of the RF water temp wire is connected to the appropriate wire going into the temp gauge. The pipe threads of the sensor is making good ground connection to the engine as well. But the issue is that the sensor doesn't use the ground to the engine, and must use the wire. I called Speed Hut and talked with a tech guy and he confirmed that I would have to run both the black (ground) and white (sensor) wires or create a ground. I really did not want to have ground wire on the engine so I thought about putting a ground wire in the RF Sensor harness. Really did not want to do that as I have it fully installed, taped and clamped in place...

2nd... So I decided instead to use the one wire that is in the harness that I'm not planning to use as a ground wire (Oil Temp Wire, Light Blue) Easy... under the dash, connect that end of the Oil Temp wire to one of my grounds and the other end to the sensor. Wiring completed, and checked with an Ohm meter only to find I do not have connectivity at the sensor end of the "ground" wire to ground as I should. Took a little bit of trouble shooting to find that that wire, and only that wire was not installed into the weather pack connector at the end of the sensor harness so it was not connecting to the main harness under the dash. In fact, as I was disconnecting the connector, the wire came out in my hand. I spent some time and was able to remove the innards of that pin and solder it on as the crimp was all ready crimped. Put it all back together and wallah, connectivity and all is good in cobra land. And if needed, I now have a ground wire in that harness that I can use. Of course if I every want to add Oil Temp, I'll have to run a wire.
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So in these photos, all of the wires are run to all of the sensors except I still have a couple other wires to complete after I get the Oil Pressure sensor installed and Fan Switch.
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[BadAsp427]

I've not taken the time to post much over the past 3 days, but I've been busy... The largest chunk of my time has been working on the Electric Power Steering. I was really waiting until I had some headers to put on so that I knew where everything was going to be. So, I received a set of "In Work" headers, more on that later, kind of a secret, and was able to get a good feel for where everything will be.

I purchased the EPowerSteering.com (http://epowersteering.com/) complete kit. Everything new and ready to install. You can also see a thread about it HERE. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21719-New-Electric-Power-steering-kit-for-the-roadster-New-Bracket-design-Photos-are-back!&p=245722&viewfull=1#post245722)

I will say that the hardest part of this build is finding the perfect spot for the bracket to mound and keep the steering rod straight through. The challenge comes in that you really can't line it up without cutting the steering rod and you don't want to cut it until you know you have it in the right position. I finally figured out that I could slip mount the bracket onto the 3/4" tube and move it up and down the tube until I was close and then use the actual EPS motor mount and eyeball the steering rod through the center of the bracket. Then it was outside with the cut off wheel.... chop... sparks flying everywhere and a few seconds on the bench grinder and it was done... (I actually cut it about 1/4" longer on the first cut so that I could be sure, then cut a little off at a time until I had it just right) Then once the cutting was completed, I was able to mock it all up and clamp the two halves of the EPS bracket together with some vice grips and then back outside to the welder. Some wire brush and flap wheel clean up and it was time for the POR-15. I did all of this yesterday.

Today, it was a day of focusing on the wiring for the EPS. I literally spent 8 straight hours on it, and a couple out and about looking for some wire. I chose to mount the control box on the F-Panel just above the EPS. Figure it will both be cooled by incoming air as well as look cool to spectators looking in at the engine compartment. The majority of the time was removing my "starter" wire harness, opening it up and running a 10 gauge wire from the starter all the way around to the EPS, stopping in the pedal box to insert the 60 amp fuse. Once that was done, I moved onto the control knob installation. I chose to put it on the very end of my dash, around out of the way in hopes that it will not be bumped, but still easy to adjust if desired. Each and every wire connections was soldered and then covered with heat shrink tubing. I'm not quite done with the wiring just yet as I have the control box to EPS motor wiring to complete. I have some weather pack connectors in the mail and will complete this job just as soon as they arrive. I also need to get the new spline couplings welded onto the steering arms, then I can complete the installation and tighten everything down.

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Ok, so I teased the headers... All I can say at this time is that I'm working with a very well known header manufacture to build a new header that are going to be specifically for the BluePrint Engines Model H9009 Ford 302 Small Block Aluminum heads. If you look close at the headers in any of the above photos, you can see that these are just tack welded together. I'll be dropping the body on in the near future to check on some of the fitment measurements. That's all I can say for now, but this should be a great new option for anyone with the BluePrint Engine Custom Aluminum Heads on the 302 based engines.

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[cgundermann]

You really shouldn't do that. The filter should be after the pump, not before, so that fuel is being pushed through under positive pressure not drawn through by negative pressure.

Perhaps it was different with the Anniversary cars but all of the complete kits that I have built did not include parking brake cables.

Jeff

Carl ~

I was just catching up reading your build thread and saw this and didn’t see if you had yet relocated your fuel filter after Jeff’s advice. I have a fuel injected 347 and initially mounted the fuel filter in FFR’s recommenced location. I had initially mounted my external fuel pump after and below that. As Jeff stated, external pumps do not do very well pulling fuel through filters (versus pushing) and in my case, I was creating fuel tank cavitation under high G pulls and was leaning my motor out and throwing codes. Was able to use connectors from Summit to connect the lines directly in place of the filter and relocated/replaced the Ford OEM fuel filter to a billet filter from Summit in the engine bay right before the fuel rails. It made a big difference on my setup...

Chris

[BadAsp427]

Was just reading your build thread and saw this and didn’t see if you had yet relocated your fuel filter after Jeff’s advice. I have a fuel injected 347 and initially mounted the fuel filter in FFR’s recommenced location. I had mounted my external fuel pump after and below that. As Jeff stated, external pumps do not do very well pulling fuel through filters (versus pushing) and in my case, I was creating fuel tank cavitation under high G pulls and was leaning my motor out and throwing codes. Was able to use connectors from Summit to connect the lines directly in place of the filter and relocated/replaced the Ford OEM fuel filter to a billet filter from Summit in the engine bay right before the fuel rails. It made a big difference on my setup...

Chris

Yup, I actually deleted the external pump and went with an in tank pump, left the filter where I had it. Should be all good to go now... Then after all that, received my BluePrint engine and they actually sent me a Holley Red pump with the engine. I'm not planning to use it, but just in case I'll keep it for a while. I'm carburetored so the pump is a 8 PSI pump.

[BadAsp427]

Today is a light day, just catching up a couple things...

The Oil Pressure Sender. I picked up a couple small fittings so that I can keep it in close and tight to the motor and not stick out like a sore thumb. I then cleaned it up good with some acetone and gave it a blast with some gloss black rattle can. Matches the engine block. Cut the sender wire and soldered on the eye terminal, added some heat shrink and put it all together with some sealant on the threads. Checked to be sure I've got ground through the threads and called it done!

1/4 elbow w/reducer to 1/8 pipe thread
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Test fit and "Before" photo
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All Done! Simple, clean, and I hope functional...
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[BadAsp427]

Last night I finally chose and purchased my battery and installed it into the FFMetal Rear Drop Battery Box (http://ffmetal.com/#bb). Perfect fit. That is a really nice box that Bill and the FFMetal group make.

For the Battery I chose the Super Start Platinum (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/platinum-5003/battery-accessories-16452/battery---automotive-16864/battery-12836/aa237490c00e/super-start-platinum-group-size-34-top-post-battery/34plt/4742696?manufacturer=true&pos=10) from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

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The measurements of this battery are exactly the same as the Optima Red Top in all the critical measurements. The size of the bottom width/length to fit into the box correctly as well as the total height from the bottom to the top of the terminals. I was able to place the two batteries side by side at the store and check all the measurements. The carry handle easily comes off and I will be able to actually just leave it in the box for the future removal of the battery. (I took it out for the photos) I plan to put a couple pieces of edge trim on the top edges of the hold down clamp to prevent any possible chance of the POS cable getting cut and shorting out. Those edges have a bit of a sharpness to them.

Overall, I think I will be happy with this battery and the price was nice with my military discount they can give on this battery and not on the Optima I saved about $90. Better than a sharp stick in the eye!

Just one step closer to that first start...

[cv2065]

Just one step closer to that first start...

Can't wait man. That engine will sound great!!

[BadAsp427]

Can't wait man. That engine will sound great!!

I have a set of temp use headers that I've intentionally left off the engine as that is really the only thing stopping me from cranking it up... I have a list of things I want to get completed or re-done before that happens... Might be this weekend, not pushing it however.

Several little things in the fire that will all come together at one time.

- Brake Lines to front removed from foot box to first "T" to install E-Power steering needs to be redone
- Steering Rods have been sent off to welder and then E-Power steering can be put back in place permanently
- Cruise control needs to be wired up. (Installed the Control Box tonight, more on that soon)
- Want to run Seat Heaters and of course install the seats... need to be able to sit and admire the stereophonic sounds of the BluePrint 347
- May want to even put a radiator in... (minor details)

[BadAsp427]

Spent the afternoon fitting the Stainless Steel 5/8" Heater Hose and control valve. First off, let me warn anyone working with this stuff, be careful where you let it slide... it will scuff and scratch just about anything that it touches.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the final results. The hose coming from the top of the intake manifold naturally wanted to lay on the top of the polished alternator so I tapped a 10-32 hole in the top edge of the alternator mount bracket and attached the hose via hose clamp. This not only keeps the hose in a nice angle coming off the intake, but it also keeps it up off of the alternator.

As far as cutting the SS Hose, it was very easy. I identified where I needed to cut it, and tightly wrapped black electrical tape with the edge for the tape on the cut line. Then directly next to that tape, I did it again with little to no gap between the two wrappings... Then I just used a cut off wheel on my grinder and slices right through it. Made for some very nice ends with very little sharp edges or spikes to get my hands.

The control valve cable from the dash/firewall fit perfectly so that I could keep the cable with a large radius bend and tight up to the heater box area.

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[BadAsp427]

Started on the Cruise Control install yesterday. Determined the mounting location of the main servo control box and mounted it behind the dash on the far passenger side, mounted it to the small fire wall extension. Mounting it here allowed for the cruise cable to follow along the inside of the dash and make a nice wide curve/bend through the fire wall directly behind the carburetor throttle control. The cable is actually about 3' long and after I called the tech support line for Rostra, I was told emphatically not to cut the cable shorter. So finding a nice unused hole to put it in, far away from the carburetor was a blessing. Everything installed exactly as the instructions indicated. I did have to add about 3/8" to the length of the cruise cable to give it the required "slack." Looks like it all came out really good and should work as advertised. Then today, I tackled the wiring. At first it looked really scary, almost as scary as the main RF harness, but following the instructions, I went down one wire at a time and hooked them up to the appropriate places. Most of them clamped right into the RF harness at a convenient location. Of course having just completed the dash wiring and still having the body off made the job much easier as I was familiar with where all the wires were at that I was looking for.

I mounted the control buttons on my dash just to the right of my Spedo... Not really happy about that location now that it is there. I think I would like it better if the cover was a darker gray or black to match the dash. It snaps on and off so I may be able to get a black one or perhaps paint this one and make it work. Or, it may just grow on me... Either way, with the 3 - 9/32nd holes that were drilled through the dash, it is not moving.

Here are a few photos, but of course trying to take photos of the wiring mess behind the dash is kind of futile...

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[BadAsp427]

Yesterday and today I completely redid my brake lines coming out of the foot box and reservoir set up. I replaced the line coming from my MC to the rear brakes at the foot box as I had it running outside of the foot box. Bought a couple new brake lines and ran the rear down the inside of the foot box over along side the inside wall and out of a hole in the front corner. That was then able to connect up to the rest of the line going to the rear. Also reinstalled the front line going from the MC to the "T" by the DS wheel. I had to remove it to install the Electric Power Steering and decided to go with a new piece there. I also removed the single reservoir and installed two separate ones and replaced the red hose with some nice shinny black hose. Built a mount and have them on the 3/4" rail just in front of the foot box. Today, filled the reservoirs up and filled the system with some brake fluid. Pumped and pumped and the bleed the brakes all around starting at the PS rear and coming up to the front... Hard brake peddle... but not before needing to replace the cross over line under the trunk. While I was pumping in brake fluid I discovered a leak at the PS rear connection. It was one that I did the flare on so after 3 attempts of tightening it, I just decided to go get a pre-made piece and re run it. What a pain it was... job completed and no leaks. Hard Peddle and I think they are ready to go.

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Filled the 347ci BluePrint Engine with the Blue brake in oil provided and required by BluePrint engines. Filled the filter and let it sit and continued to fill it until I had nearly a full quart of oil in it. Installed the filter, and put the total of 7 quarts into the engine. Checked the dip stick and it was just a tad over Full.... Next, Following BluePrint Engine's instructions, I removed all of the spark plugs and also the dust covers over the exhaust ports (No Headers Installed just yet) and I then connected up the battery and cranked the engine over for about 30 seconds... It spun so smooth. While I could not see Oil Pressure on the electronic gauge during the actual spin, I could see it jump up to the pressure and then fall down when I returned the key to the "run" position. It was up at about 45psi as it slowly dropped back down to zero with the engine not spinning.
Pretty Exciting!!!

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Next I installed the radiator, hoses and overflow bottle. I had to run to the parts store and search through their supply of preformed radiator hose to find one in the right size with a 90* turn. I needed this to come off of the top of the engine and stay below the hood. Mission accomplished and the rest of the install went pretty smooth. One thing, in the build manual it states to mark the radiator and the frame at the center point and then mount it 5/8" off set. The photo shows the radiator being moved 5/8" to the drivers side (left side) my radiator is as wide as the frame rails and I was not able to move it really either way and still bolt it to the mounts. I guess if there is a problem, I'll have to deal with that at that time.

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So I went back to the manual and the next step is to install the roll bars and the seats... The roll bars will be easy as I have all ready done the fitting and drilling. Just need to put them back in (as I connect the 3rd brake wires) and then the seats.... I'll tackle those this week... then the manual says to start up the engine and check for leaks... Oh Yeah,,,, it's getting real...:cool:

[edwardb]

I don't recall the exact sequence from the manual, and maybe you've read this on other forum posts. But don't mount your seats until the body is fitted. It's a tight fit at the back corner by the door latches, and you want the body in place to get the proper location for the seats.

[BadAsp427]

I don't recall the exact sequence from the manual, and maybe you've read this on other forum posts. But don't mount your seats until the body is fitted. It's a tight fit at the back corner by the door latches, and you want the body in place to get the proper location for the seats.

Thanks Paul. Just another reason to drop the body in place!

[BadAsp427]

Ok, I did not get a ton of stuff done today... I just could not stop looking at the car... LOL

So I installed the BBK Headers that FF sent me... Need to install the side pipes. These headers are temporary for first start and some go carting... I'll be installing some new headers later...

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I also removed all of the blue painters tape that I had on the fire wall and drivers foot box front, and a few other places. Man this is pretty... I'm only waiting now to get my steering shaft back from the welder and installed and I'll be able to drop it to the ground. I also ordered the Breeze Radiator Shroud that I will install before I put the coolant into it. And that is the end of what I need to do to be able to make the first start and perhaps a drive around the block.

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Also installed the Roll bars with some bright red LED 3rd brake lights that I installed a few weeks ago.

96594

[PeteMeindl]

Looks great, Badasp!

[RR20AC]

Great progress Carl, your doing a fantastic job.

[BadAsp427]

Great progress Carl, your doing a fantastic job.


Looks great, Badasp!

Thanks....

[cv2065]

Really nice work Carl! Can't wait to hear it start up. And when you do the video, get the close up and wide angle of that beast running! Now, let's see if I can magnify your pics to steal, I mean borrow some ideas....:)

[BadAsp427]

Really nice work Carl! Can't wait to hear it start up. And when you do the video, get the close up and wide angle of that beast running! Now, let's see if I can magnify your pics to steal, I mean borrow some ideas....:)

Just let me know if you need any specific pics... Glad to take them for you...

[cv2065]

Just let me know if you need any specific pics... Glad to take them for you...

You know I will. Thanks partner!!

[BadAsp427]

Ok so as the title says.... All I Need Is Gasoline (for 1st start) Tonight I received my Breeze Fan Shroud and installed it. Very easy, drilled 6 holes and installed some SS pan head screws and lock nuts and it was installed. While it was all clean and looking pretty, I put some SharkHide to the entire radiator and fan assembly to make it shine like new for a long time. I then put in 3 gal of 50/50 coolant to fill the system. Had one hose clamp that I did not tighten and leaked a little until it was tightened. Also grounded out the wire going to the fan and confirmed that it works.... and boy does it work...
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Next I installed my pretty, shinny, side pipes and tires/wheels.... It's always fun to get up into the rafters to get parts down... I plan to put the build on the ground on Friday afternoon and move it around in the garage so that I can get it out of the garage door and most likely I'll fire it up.... I'm very confident it will be a good first start as the motor came straight from the Dyno at BluePrint engines. I'm also confident of my wiring and do not see any reason to have any issues. (famous last words, right?)

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Added a little Meat.....
96698

[PeteMeindl]

I can feel the anticipation - there's electricity in the air waiting for the 1st start!! :) Good luck, Carl!

[DadofThree]

It's amazing to me that you've built this so fast! I took this photo of you Aug31st when we first met. Only two months ago! Amazing!9671696717

[cv2065]

Excited for you Carl! Looking forward to the video!

[BadAsp427]

Well today was the big day... I was planning on doing this tomorrow, but weather tomorrow looks to be bad and did not want to start up in the garage. So First things first. I started this with all settings exactly as I received it from BluePrint Engines. No adjustments of any kind were made to the engine for this 1st start. I followed the instructions and pre lubed the engine by cranking it over without spark plugs and without the ignition hooked up. I was able to get about 50psi Oil Pressure during this pre lube operation. The engine is filled with yellow 50/50 coolant and the 7 qts of BluePrint Brake in 30 Weight Oil.

I put in about 1 gal of gasoline, hooked up the elect fuel pump, and as you will see in the video, pumped the carb a couple times and the BluePrint Engine fired up after only a couple of cranks. I wish that I had stereo mics hooked up to the camera so that you could here just how awesome this thing sounds. I ran it for about 10 minutes after the video stopped and allowed it to come up to full temp. The fan came on right at 80c/178f and then turned off at 75c/167f

I'm excited to be past this awesome milestone after only 75 days of building. I started this build on Aug 19th 2018.... I'm even more excited about the next steps in the build as I start putting it all together.... I will have some Go Cart time, but I do not plan on a lot... More videos will follow.

So without any more chat.... Here is the 1st Start Video of BadAsp427's 20th Anniversary Factory 5 Roadster #8690 on November 1st 2018. Enjoy!!!

:::::Be sure to watch to the end.... At first it is in fast idle with the choke but at about 1:50 I drop it down to 800 RPM idle and that is when it sounds awesome::::: what a BadAsp lope....


https://youtu.be/HRwpZfBFiWs

[PeteMeindl]

wooooohoooooo!!! Congratullations, Carl - that is awesome!! :)

[Papa]

That never gets old. Congrats!

[BadAsp427]

This video was taken simultaneously with focus on the gauges during the entire run. But it is also directly between both exhaust pipes so you get both sides at once... :-)


https://youtu.be/oTtoYpbyWuI

[cv2065]

This video was taken simultaneously with focus on the gauges during the entire run. But it is also directly between both exhaust pipes so you get both sides at once... :-)


https://youtu.be/oTtoYpbyWuI

Just had to listen to this again on the computer with bigger speakers. Sounds great Carl. NOTHING like the sound of a pushrod engine!!

[BadAsp427]

Just had to listen to this again on the computer with bigger speakers. Sounds great Carl. NOTHING like the sound of a pushrod engine!!

I'm so impressed with the engine. BluePrint Engines sent me a very nice piece. The sound in person was awesome... Now I just have to start putting together the small stuff... seats, interior, lights, etc.... But one big thing is that I do not have my steering rod back from the welder just yet... (held up with FedEx) so I can't gocart it...

[CVOBill]

Congrats and sounds great!

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations From The Dark Side!

It Sounds Very, Very Healthy!

[Straversi]

Well done. Congratulations. It’s alive.
-Steve

[SSNK4US]

OMG!!!! Sounds soooooo good!!! Congratulations!!!!
Same motor we’re getting. I was worried about the sound at idle... needs to sound bad A, and it sure does!!!
Man you sure flew through your build. We took delivery 7/31 and the body is still on the chassis, (life interrupteus) and still waiting for B/O parts lol
You’ve done a great job!!!

Kurt

[BadAsp427]

Today was a long day... for a task that seems like it should not be that long, I managed to spend 98% of my 12 hour day to day working on the seats. I started off by finding that because these seats have been in the box since May of 2015 that the bare metal frame was rusted up pretty bad (surface rust) so the first thing was to put a coat of POR15 on the frame. Of course that took a couple of hours to dry, and while that was happening, I installed the seat heater pads into the seat cushions. They fit perfectly with the only cutting I did was to round off the corners to fit into the furthest in position. After the POR15 dried, I put in the heater pads for the seat backs, making the same top corner cuts.

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I also ran a 10g wire from the fuse box to the trans tunnel for the seats... This called for cutting all of my zip ties for the rear harness and putting the wire inside the harness. Once I got to the appropriate point, I split the wire off to get power to both sides. Drilled a small hole and inserted a rubber grommet and passed the wire through into the seat area. I wired the 10 amp inline fuse and put a disconnect plug on the power wire. I also fabricated a couple nice small brackets to hold the seat heater switches and mounted them down on the inside of each of the seats on the side of the trans tunnel, out of the way, but easy enough to reach and view the power light as needed. The red power wire and the control wire from the switch will both be under the carpet when that is completed. The ultimate goal for the wiring is that I can remove the seats just by disconnecting two wires, the + power and the control switch, all the rest of the wiring harness will go with the seat. I then hooked up the battery, and sat in the seats while watching the NASCAR race with a nice warm tushy and back... you know, kind of a therapeutic break from the build.... the seat heaters work great.

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[BadAsp427]

Received my modified steering arm back from the welder today. I had to cut out 9"+/- out of it to install the Electric Power Steering unit. So now the entire EPS is installed, and tested... works fantastic while sitting in the garage. Exactly as advertised... Could be the best $599 I've spent on an upgrade. Well except perhaps that BluePrint Engine...

I purchased the EPowerSteering.com (http://www.epowersteering.com) complete kit. Everything new and ready to install. You can also see a thread about it HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21719-New-Electric-Power-steering-kit-for-the-roadster-New-Bracket-design-Photos-are-back!&p=245722&viewfull=1#post245722).

But before I did anything, I followed the rack centering instructions posted here in the forums. And then I loosely installed the steering wheel onto the steering shaft. Then, as I put the EPS in, I was able to index the steering wheel in what should be a straight up and down configuration when I'm actually going straight. Having 3 spline joints in the system that made it fairly easy to get pretty darn close. Final alignment will be the real tell...

Then after tightening down all of the attachment points and connecting the wiring that I had prepared a few weeks back I removed the upper steering shaft out of the car. I sanded the top (rear) half of it so that I could paint it with my dark gray that matches the 20th Anv frame powder coat. After a couple coats and letting it dry, I then installed the upper shaft down into the lower shaft along with the 2 little wavy washers. I also put some standard wheel grease on that shaft so that it would slide in easily now, but more important to prevent rust and in hopes of it being able to be remove easily later if needed. On the wheel end of the shaft, where the aluminum hub slides onto the steel shaft, I put some aluminum anti-seize on there and then put the bolt in and pulled it down onto the shaft. I was then able to sit in the seat and like telescopic steering slide the shaft in and out to find the exact location that I was comfortable while sitting in my "relaxed" driving position. Locked down all of the set screws in the bearings as well as the splines and I think it's all but done. I will still pull out the main steering wheel bolt and put some locktite on it to call it 100% done. The steering feels very tight with zero play in the wheel side to side...

Anyway, here are some photos of the steering system completed.
96934 96935 96936 96937


QUESTION: in this photo, am I missing anything as far as a beauty ring or something or is this the way it is designed to look?
96933

If all goes to plan, I will do some ride height and alignment adjustments tomorrow and then Wednesday (weather permitting) I'll take it out for a very short, quick test drive.

[edwardb]

QUESTION: in this photo, am I missing anything as far as a beauty ring or something or is this the way it is designed to look?
96933

That's the stock look. Mike has this trim ring, although don't know about the fit on your dash: http://www.replicaparts.com/dash%20steering%20hole%20insert%20page.htm.

Many use the Russ Thompson turn signal setup which fills that all in and provides a more finished look.

[Papa]

Received my modified steering arm back from the welder today. I had to cut out 9"+/- out of it to install the Electric Power Steering unit. So now the entire EPS is installed, and tested... works fantastic while sitting in the garage. Exactly as advertised... Could be the best $599 I've spent on an upgrade. Well except perhaps that BluePrint Engine...

I purchased the EPowerSteering.com (http://www.epowersteering.com) complete kit. Everything new and ready to install. You can also see a thread about it HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21719-New-Electric-Power-steering-kit-for-the-roadster-New-Bracket-design-Photos-are-back!&p=245722&viewfull=1#post245722).

But before I did anything, I followed the rack centering instructions posted here in the forums. And then I loosely installed the steering wheel onto the steering shaft. Then, as I put the EPS in, I was able to index the steering wheel in what should be a straight up and down configuration when I'm actually going straight. Having 3 spline joints in the system that made it fairly easy to get pretty darn close. Final alignment will be the real tell...

Then after tightening down all of the attachment points and connecting the wiring that I had prepared a few weeks back I removed the upper steering shaft out of the car. I sanded the top (rear) half of it so that I could paint it with my dark gray that matches the 20th Anv frame powder coat. After a couple coats and letting it dry, I then installed the upper shaft down into the lower shaft along with the 2 little wavy washers. I also put some standard wheel grease on that shaft so that it would slide in easily now, but more important to prevent rust and in hopes of it being able to be remove easily later if needed. On the wheel end of the shaft, where the aluminum hub slides onto the steel shaft, I put some aluminum anti-seize on there and then put the bolt in and pulled it down onto the shaft. I was then able to sit in the seat and like telescopic steering slide the shaft in and out to find the exact location that I was comfortable while sitting in my "relaxed" driving position. Locked down all of the set screws in the bearings as well as the splines and I think it's all but done. I will still pull out the main steering wheel bolt and put some locktite on it to call it 100% done. The steering feels very tight with zero play in the wheel side to side...

Anyway, here are some photos of the steering system completed.
96934 96935 96936 96937


QUESTION: in this photo, am I missing anything as far as a beauty ring or something or is this the way it is designed to look?
96933

If all goes to plan, I will do some ride height and alignment adjustments tomorrow and then Wednesday (weather permitting) I'll take it out for a very short, quick test drive.

Carl,

Like Paul already said, that's it for the FFR padded dash. I looked at the trim ring that Mike sells, but didn't want to cut the structure out of that part of the dash to install it. Just one thing that you may want to look at though. From the position of the steering column in the opening, it looks like your dash may be a bit high. Watch for the body hitting on the gauge at the far left as you set the body on. Without any bulb seal, my body was right on the gauge bezel. I trimmed the body back about 1/2" under the cowl to ensure it wouldn't rub on the face of the dash or the gauge.

Also, in your gauge-focused video of the first start, it looked like your inertia switch was mounted button down. If you are actually using the RF fuel pump relay, you may want to flip that over.

Dave

[BadAsp427]

Carl,
Like Paul already said, that's it for the FFR padded dash. I looked at the trim ring that Mike sells, but didn't want to cut the structure out of that part of the dash to install it. Just one thing that you may want to look at though. From the position of the steering column in the opening, it looks like your dash may be a bit high. Watch for the body hitting on the gauge at the far left as you set the body on. Without any bulb seal, my body was right on the gauge bezel. I trimmed the body back about 1/2" under the cowl to ensure it wouldn't rub on the face of the dash or the gauge.
Also, in your gauge-focused video of the first start, it looked like your inertia switch was mounted button down. If you are actually using the RF fuel pump relay, you may want to flip that over.

Dave

Yeah, I knew I mounted it upside down, LOL just have not flipped it over yet... I've banged it a few times and it seems to be ok that way, but I do know I need to flip it. Thanks for looking out...

As far as the dash goes, it is down right on top of the 3/4" arch tube... If I take it any lower, the top edge would be below that tube... I hope it's all good... Thanks again. We will find out.. It is flat at the top of the arch and then down at the corners it is just below/right at the 3/4" tube... It actually states in the instructions that came with the plastic padded dash from FF that I would fit like this... Fingers crossed it will be good.
96942

[Papa]

Yeah, I knew I mounted it upside down, LOL just have not flipped it over yet... I've banged it a few times and it seems to be ok that way, but I do know I need to flip it. Thanks for looking out...

As far as the dash goes, it is down right on top of the 3/4" arch tube... If I take it any lower, the top edge would be below that tube... I hope it's all good... Thanks again. We will find out.. It is flat at the top of the arch and then down at the corners it is just below/right at the 3/4" tube... It actually states in the instructions that came with the plastic padded dash from FF that I would fit like this... Fingers crossed it will be good.
96942

Sounds like the dash is where it should be, and mine is the same as you describe. Maybe the difference in the column location is simply due to the differences in our steering setups. Your going to be done before me at the pace you are working at. I can't wait to see your graduation post!

Dave

[cv2065]

Yeah, I knew I mounted it upside down, LOL just have not flipped it over yet... I've banged it a few times and it seems to be ok that way, but I do know I need to flip it. Thanks for looking out...

As far as the dash goes, it is down right on top of the 3/4" arch tube... If I take it any lower, the top edge would be below that tube... I hope it's all good... Thanks again. We will find out.. It is flat at the top of the arch and then down at the corners it is just below/right at the 3/4" tube... It actually states in the instructions that came with the plastic padded dash from FF that I would fit like this... Fingers crossed it will be good.
96942

Glad you posted this picture Carl, as I'm going to be fitting my dash soon enough, and I need to know where the steering tube is coming through, as I need to cut a larger hole in the center for the RT Turn signal mod. Hopefully with it sitting lower there is enough room!

[BluePrintEngines]

Sounds and looks awesome!!! thanks so much for posting! guys always ask how they sound, and its tough to find a good video!!! can't wait to see it tearing up the streets!!

Johnny

[shark92651]

Well today was the big day... I put in about 1 gal of gasoline, hooked up the elect fuel pump, and as you will see in the video, pumped the carb a couple times and the BluePrint Engine fired up after only a couple of cranks.

This is awesome, congratulations! I'm about ready to turn the key on mine as well, probably this weekend.

[RR20AC]

Congrats on the first start! If that electric steering works like mine, you'll love it. I set my alignment for power steering so when off I am not sure if manual feel is correct. It's nice to have the option in different types of driving though.

[BadAsp427]

With a very big grin on my face I'm excited to announce that today I was able to take #8690, Factory Five Roadster 20th Anniversary #008 out for it's first drive. After spending about 20 minutes adjusting the timing and idle to get it where I wanted for now, I started the video below. This was from my GoPro that I've used many times in both my son's and my own race cars with no problem. But today I had a minor one. I guess it was rattling inside the case so the audio is picking up that, but it also picked up issue #1 that I have. The U-Joints/Pinion angle, more on this in a moment. So enjoy the short ride, I did not go any further after I realized that the U-joints were not happy. But I did not park it until I goosed it just a little...

As I say in the video, I can just feel the power wanting to be unleashed. I'm going to take a couple day break from the build, catch up on some household chores and then get back to it this weekend. All I can say right now is WOW! That was a fun, short, but very fun little drive.

So a Question.

- The Drive shaft has a significant angle going from the transmission and then angling up to the pinion. (2015 IRS) I need to put some spacers in the trans mount and raise up the tail... Where is the best place for the spacers? Under the "A" frame or between the "A" frame and the trans mount? Perhaps between the trans mount and trans? Just curious your thoughts. I was planning to pick up some Grade 8 Washers and get that drive shaft angle much closer to where it needs to be this weekend.


https://youtu.be/mb6HmiWph2I

[cv2065]

That was awesome! Gives me some inspiration to get on mine this week so we can go cruising. By the way, Forte sells a TKO spacer kit if you want to go that route.

http://fortesparts.com/index.php/product/tremec-tko-transmission-spacer-kit/

[JoeAIII]

Either forte or breeze make trans mount spacers to fix the pinion angle, I'm sure someone will post a link if you don't find them.

[BadAsp427]

Excited to say that I just went back out to the garage to turn everything off and lock up for the night and found the issue with the U-Joints. I reached down and turned the drive shaft back and forth. Lots of play. Looked down in there at the same time and can see that the U-joint flange that attached directly to the pinion adapter plate was loose... Or should I say the bolts were tight, but too long. I had seen this in other posts, but until I put some pressure by driving it, I could not see/feel it. After a few revolutions it was easy to see... Simple fix this weekend when I go back to it... I'll cut those bolts just a tad shorter... I actually measured the hole and the bolts and they are basically the exact same so I'm certain a 1/16" will be all it will take. I like simple fixes.... Still need to raise the trans up a bit, but that again is a very simple fix...

[Railroad]

Congrats! Thanks for posting. It is always inspiring to get first hand, Pics, progress on a build.

[edwardb]

Congrats on the go-kart. You absolutely need to shim up that TKO. Mine needed 3/4-inch. Since yours is the same setup, expect it would be the same. Stack of washers works, but not what I did. Forte sells 3/8-inch spacers that can be stacked. I made mine out of a 3/4-inch aluminum bar. Goes between the mounting ears on the transmission and the transmission A-frame. You'll need longer bolts. Looked for a picture but couldn't find one. Pretty straightforward though.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/th_IMG_2420_zps720c6ea1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2420_zps720c6ea1.jpg.html)

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations Bad-Asp!
.....We Can't Wait To See Your Next Video!


Also, here's a little U-Joint Phasing Video that we can all use.

https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4

[BadAsp427]

Goes between the mounting ears on the transmission and the transmission A-frame. You'll need longer bolts. Looked for a picture but couldn't find one.

Thanks Paul,
I'll figure something out, it is pretty straight forward as you say.... But I do not understand the above. I have the trans mount of course... so did you mean to say the spacer you put in is between the transmission ears and the top of the transmission mount? Or between the trans mount and the A frame? I guess it really doesn't matter a whole lot..

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congrats on hitting the milestone :) What ratio steering rack are you using---looks like a lot of turns.

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

Congrats on hitting the milestone :) What ratio steering rack are you using---looks like a lot of turns.

Jeff

It is the Manual rack from FF... I'm guessing it is 15:1 It is only 3 complete turns, lock to lock...

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul,
I'll figure something out, it is pretty straight forward as you say.... But I do not understand the above. I have the trans mount of course... so did you mean to say the spacer you put in is between the transmission ears and the top of the transmission mount? Or between the trans mount and the A frame? I guess it really doesn't matter a whole lot..

Sorry. Brain cramp. :p Yes, between the transmission ears and the Energy Suspension transmission mount. No change in the connection between the transmission mount and the A frame.

[PeteMeindl]

Congratulations Bad-Asp!
.....We Can't Wait To See Your Next Video!


Also, here's a little U-Joint Phasing Video that we can all use.

https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4

Good video, GoDad - i learned something by watching that!

[PeteMeindl]

What a great video! Thanks for posting, BadAsp - A victorious day, that's for sure!

[cgundermann]

Congratulations - no better feeling! Glad you quickly figured out your noise.

Chris

[Boydster]

WooHoo! Congratulations and nice find on the bolts. There's no stopping ya now!

[Fixit]

Woo Hooo!!
Nothing like the 1st ride in a new machine!

Good catch on the pinion flange bolts. Easy fix!

[BadAsp427]

Today was a day of minor tweaks and getting back to the beginning... drilling and clekos...

Before really getting started, I found that after my short go cart drive that my DS camber was way off so I adjusted that to a much better look. Then rearranged the garage, cleaned things up a bit and put the car up on the jack stands. Removed the side pipes to get them out of the way and then started out by addressing the loose drive shaft to pinion flange. Removed all 4 bolts and cut off about 3/16" on each one. Cleaned them up on the wire wheel, and reinstalled, loctite and torqued appropriately. The flange is tight now...

Continued in that area by pulling out the bottom bolts from the trans mount and raising the transmission tail up about 3/4" to fix the pinion angle. Things are much better now. I used a stack of thick washers and some new 1.5" grade 8 bolts to replace the .75" long bolts that came out. Torqued them down on the lock washers and call this job complete.



Took a long brake and caught up with a very good friend for lunch and stopped by the DMV to pick up some forms to start the title/registration process. I'll cover this process for SC in a separate thread for others to have available. Looks like it is going to be very straight forward and smooth.

Back to the build after the DMV I decided I need to start looking at getting ready to drop the body on. I had not completed any of the panel drilling for the driver's foot box top and side. So I went back to the beginning and broke out the 1/8" drill bit and clekos... Also installed some nutserts on the top access panel and then pulled them all back off as I still need to do some work in the DS foot box before they go on permanently.

97099 97100 97101 97102

[BadAsp427]

Today was kind of an easy day. I worked on several small items, time consuming items that have to get done...

1st, Installed the horns. Fairly simple job, followed the build manual almost, just a couple minor adjustments to that guide. First off, I did not mount them with the brackets together. I actually put a little separation between the horns so that they looked a little less cramped in the space. I used 1/4-20 stainless bolts, self locking nuts and washers. I also put red loctite between the 3/4" tube and the silver horn brackets to "glue" them in place and hopefully prevent them from moving. Oh, and in my garage, the horns are extremely loud.

97156 97157

Next I pulled out all of the hood hinge parts and some other bare metal parts. Spent a couple hours massaging the sharp edges off of all of them, getting the plasma cut nibs off of them and rounding off all the sharp edges. I used my 4 1/2 side grinder with at 60 grit flap wheel. Then cleaned them all with paint thinner and hung them up. Sprayed them all with a couple coats of self-etching primer and then a couple coats of final paint. I'm using Dupli-color paint that is a near perfect match to the 20th Anniversary frame power coat gray color. Those parts will be put away and be ready for use when the time comes.

97158 97159

I also installed the trans tunnel cover shifter fill plate. Nothing special here except as you can see there are two rivets missing... Those will actually be into the 3/4" cross tube underneath if I do in fact permanently attache that cover. I'm thinking of using industrial strength hook and loop (velcro) to attache it and if I do, then I'll just put the rivets in and flatten them with a few taps of a hammer.

97160 97161

Next... I completed the door latch improvements in preparation to using them.

[BadAsp427]

I followed a couple different leads on the modification/improvements on the door latches. While I've seen where some never had a problem with the latches and others that have had several problems, I wanted to do what I can now to prevent any problems in the future. So, this is what I did.

One of the issues I've read about is that the small ball shaped handle that is only pressed into the latch bar will come off. I started by drilling a 5/8" hole into my 2x6 board that I use for just about all my drilling on my work bench. This was so that the knob would be able to be held in place as I used a center punch and drill on it. Center punched the end of the knob on the back of the lever and then using a #62 drill bit, drilled a hole about 1/2 inch deep. Then, tapped it with a 6-32 tap and cleaned out the oil I used during the taping with some carb cleaner. (want the loctite to work well) I installed a 1/2" 6-32 cap screw with washer, both stainless steel and I used blue loctite. Clean, simple and a little insurance keeping the latch knob in place.

97162 97165 97166

Next I opened up the latch by removing the two small screws that hold the chrome cover in place.

next, I picked up a couple 5/16 stainless steel carriage bolts, and self locking nuts. Using my bench grinder, I flattened the top of the carriage bolt rounded head to basically make them flat to fit when installed. I used one of my extra self locking nuts to hold the bolt with vice grips as I did the grinding. It gets very hot so the self locking vinyl actually gets pretty soft and renders the nut unusable for anything except this type of use. The square in the door latch itself seems to have a very slight taper so it was necessary to use a file to "clean" out the square so that the shank of the carriage bolt could sit flat in place. This was very minor filing, not really opening the square hole, rather just cleaning it up.

97167 97168 97169

Next I found a couple spacers that were not used from my brake install that were just the right thickness and almost the perfect inside diameter to sit down over the latch. I used a step drill to open up the first half of the spacer so that it set perfectly over the top of the latch collar. Place a stainless washer over the top of that and tightened down the self locking nut.

97170 97171 97172 97173

I use white lithium grease on all moving parts and then open and closed, in and out, over and over the latch to be sure that grease had a chance to get into all the moving parts. The latch feels very smooth and much easier than the original feel. Cleaned and polished the latches and put them back into the plastic bags and the box. Ready for use when the time is right.

[BadAsp427]

Ok so today I rearranged the garage and dropped the body down on to the chassis. I have two bolts going into the rear QJ mount holes, not tight, just holding it up. Then it is pushed all the way forward and down over the front QJ mounts. The door sills are up flush under the chassis. I've put several folded up shop rags in strategic places to simulate the bulb seal holding it up slightly. The body is just at the door strikers as I see in Jeff K's instructions is a good starting point.

So my initial observations of problems is that the the body is sitting on my tach and one of my switches. I'm thinking I will need to cut a bit off of the roll over the dash. Also the cutouts for the headers seem to be way off. I will say that I have two different sets of headers and both seem to be in the exact same position. When I had the side pipes on, they seemed to line up with the chassis very well so I'm kind of at a loss as to why the cut outs are so far off.

The hood opening, both sides are sitting right down on the 3/4" tubes and seem to be centered on them.

THIS IS WHERE I'VE DREADED going on this build. What do I need to do and where do I start?

97230 97231 97224 97225 9722697227 97228 97229 97232 97237

[Papa]

Ok so today I rearranged the garage and dropped the body down on to the chassis. I have two bolts going into the rear QJ mount holes, not tight, just holding it up. Then it is pushed all the way forward and down over the front QJ mounts. The door sills are up flush under the chassis. I've put several folded up shop rags in strategic places to simulate the bulb seal holding it up slightly. The body is just at the door strikers as I see in Jeff K's instructions is a good starting point.

So my initial observations of problems is that the the body is sitting on my tach and one of my switches. I'm thinking I will need to cut a bit off of the roll over the dash. Also the cutouts for the headers seem to be way off. I will say that I have two different sets of headers and both seem to be in the exact same position. When I had the side pipes on, they seemed to line up with the chassis very well so I'm kind of at a loss as to why the cut outs are so far off.

The hood opening, both sides are sitting right down on the 3/4" tubes and seem to be centered on them.

THIS IS WHERE I'VE DREADED going on this build. What do I need to do and where do I start?

97230 97231 97224 97225 9722697227 97228 97229 97232 97237

Carl,

Have you tried to mount the side pipes yet? There is quite an optical illusion created by looking at the header through the openings. If the body is sitting right on the front 3/4" rails, it will get some lift once the weather strip is on, but only a small amount. The gauge and switch issue is what I was talking about when I thought the dash looked a little high. You obviously can't move the gauge, but you are on the right track by trimming the cowl rolled edge back a bit. I trimmed mine about 1/2", but haven't put the body back on again to see how that fits.

Dave

[edwardb]

Your side pipes openings don't look bad at all. Lots of factors to keep in mind: The side pipes don't come straight out from the headers. The actual opening needed is behind and down from what you can see looking directly into the opening. The optical illusion already mentioned. The openings are cut purposely small, and are meant to be trimmed to your build. The openings are also hand cut and often aren't very symmetrical. Yours are quite different. I'm pretty confident those will work out OK. But don't do anything to fit them until (1) body mounting is further along (e.g. bulb seal and you're positive it's in the final position, (2) Doors fitted. It's quite common to need to pull the sides in/out to get the best door fit. (3) Front splash guards installed. Those will pull the corners of the wheel opening in and affect the cutout to some degree. Then see where you're at. Trim a little at a time and I'll bet the side pipes fit OK.

Regarding the body fit, I wouldn't trim too much on that front body roll until you try again with the bulb seal in place. Could make a difference, especially over the firewall. If the body is all the way down on the hood surround tubes, it's too low. It's usually 1/2-inch or so above. The foam filler provided in the kit will fill the opening to make it look better. But won't hold the body up. The front of the body is mainly held by the firewall and then the front quick jack bolts. The radiator surround provides some support as well.

[BadAsp427]

Your side pipes openings don't look bad at all. Lots of factors to keep in mind: The side pipes don't come straight out from the headers. The actual opening needed is behind and down from what you can see looking directly into the opening. The optical illusion already mentioned. The openings are cut purposely small, and are meant to be trimmed to your build. The openings are also hand cut and often aren't very symmetrical. Yours are quite different. I'm pretty confident those will work out OK. But don't do anything to fit them until (1) body mounting is further along (e.g. bulb seal and your positive it's in the final position, (2) Doors fitted. It's quite common to need to pull the sides in/out to get the best door fit. (3) Front splash guards installed. Those will pull the corners of the wheel opening in and affect the cutout to some degree. Then see where you're at. Trim a little at a time and I'll bet the side pipes fit OK.

Regarding the body fit, I wouldn't trim too much on that front body roll until you try again with the bulb seal in place. Could make a difference, especially over the firewall. It the body is all the way down on the hood surround tubes, it's too low. It's usually 1/2-inch or so above. The foam filler provided in the kit will fill the opening to make it look better. But won't hold the body up. The front of the body is mainly held by the firewall and then the front quick jack bolts. The radiator surround provides some support as well.

As always, Thank You ALL for your input and Dave and Paul this all makes a lot of sense. I just went out to the garage to give it a look before I call it a night. Took a few hours off to watch the NASCAR race and get my mind off the build.

Tomorrow I will most likely lift the body back up and install the bulb seal and then set it back down and attach the front QJ bolts and turn light brackets. Then I'll start to get a better idea as to what needs to happen.

One thing for sure is that I will need to relocate my turn signal switch. I'll most likely just move it down to where I have my hazard switch and move my hazard switch down under the dash in that same general area. I did not realize that the body and the door was going to encroach into that area so far. My E-Power Steering adjustment knob will be perfect there, out of the way, but I can reach it if needed during a drive.

97262 97263

[BadAsp427]

Tonight I started back with a fresh perspective and I hope understanding of the body fitment. I removed the body and installed the foam rubber seal and bulb seal. I would like to be sure that I have done this correctly.

1st the build manual states to put the self stick foam rubber seal on the 3/4" tubes on either side of the hood opening. I did this from the back of the dash all the way down to the front where it starts the downward angle next to the radiator. I actually went a couple inches past that sharp downward turn. The manual also states to put it across the top of the trunk hoop... simple enough!

2nd it states to put the bulb seal across the top of the fire wall and the trunk sides and rear floor. Ok, firewall check; Trunk Side walls from the back of the seat back to the very bottom of the wall at the bottom of the trunk area near the quick jack mounts, check;

Here is where I have a question... It also goes on to and states "The push on weather strip goes on top of the trunk walls and rear floor." What I think I did incorrectly is I put bulb seal across the back wall of the drivers compartment, just behind the seats all the way across. But I'm not sure if that is right. Also does the bulb seal go across the very back behind the fuel tank on the small ledge by the QJ mounts?

Here are some photos of what I've done.
97364 97365 97366 97367 97368 97369 97370

[Papa]

Tonight I started back with a fresh perspective and I hope understanding of the body fitment. I removed the body and installed the foam rubber seal and bulb seal. I would like to be sure that I have done this correctly.

1st the build manual states to put the self stick foam rubber seal on the 3/4" tubes on either side of the hood opening. I did this from the back of the dash all the way down to the front where it starts the downward angle next to the radiator. I actually went a couple inches past that sharp downward turn. The manual also states to put it across the top of the trunk hoop... simple enough!

2nd it states to put the bulb seal across the top of the fire wall and the trunk sides and rear floor. Ok, firewall check; Trunk Side walls from the back of the seat back to the very bottom of the wall at the bottom of the trunk area near the quick jack mounts, check;

Here is where I have a question... It also goes on to and states "The push on weather strip goes on top of the trunk walls and rear floor." What I think I did incorrectly is I put bulb seal across the back wall of the drivers compartment, just behind the seats all the way across. But I'm not sure if that is right. Also does the bulb seal go across the very back behind the fuel tank on the small ledge by the QJ mounts?

Here are some photos of what I've done.
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Carl,

No bulb seal on the rear cockpit wall between the trunk side walls, and yes along the bottom edge of the trunk floor. Everything else is correct.

Dave

[BadAsp427]

Carl,

No bulb seal on the rear cockpit wall between the trunk side walls, and yes along the bottom edge of the trunk floor. Everything else is correct.

Dave

Awesome, Thanks Dave!!!
So If I take it off of the rear cockpit wall, what seals the weather from the rear tires into the cockpit over your outer shoulder??

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[Papa]

Awesome, Thanks Dave!!!
So If I take it off of the rear cockpit wall, what seals the weather from the rear tires into the cockpit over your outer shoulder??

97371

Keep the bulb seal on from the trunk walls outward down to the door latch. You are sealing only what is exposed to the elements. You can see the placement of the seal in Paul's build thread on post #378:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=249263&viewfull=1#post249263

Dave

[Jeff Kleiner]

Carl,
Like this:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79011&d=1515679869

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

Today I completed a few tasks, Lowered my dash a small amount to allow the body to sit correctly, mounted the front and rear quick jacks and have the body in pretty much what I think will be it's correct fitment. So from there, I installed my hood, everything seemed to go well, had to of course trim around the edges of it to get it to sit in place. I limited my trimming however to leave something for my painter to do. Here are some photos of the hood install. I have the locking latches installed as well as the pneumatic lifts. The hood scoop is NOT installed, just sitting on there for the look.

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[cv2065]

Today I completed a few tasks, Lowered my dash a small amount to allow the body to sit correctly, mounted the front and rear quick jacks and have the body in pretty much what I think will be it's correct fitment. So from there, I installed my hood, everything seemed to go well, had to of course trim around the edges of it to get it to sit in place. I limited my trimming however to leave something for my painter to do. Here are some photos of the hood install. I have the locking latches installed as well as the pneumatic lifts. The hood scoop is NOT installed, just sitting on there for the look.

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Looking good man! Who are you getting to paint it. Someone local?

[BadAsp427]

Looking good man! Who are you getting to paint it. Someone local?

The plan is for Jeff Kliener to do his awesome magic on it.... some time late next summer/fall That's why I'm getting it together so I can have some fun in Gel coat.... :-)

[cv2065]

Nice! Nothing but the best!

[BadAsp427]

Ok.... today I woke up with the plan in mind to install the windshield. I reviewed the build manual, all 3 lines of instructions for this task.... also reviewed a few build threads. Then unpacked everything.
97688

Next, I found that the pre-cut openings for the support bars were not even close to being wide enough for the bars to fit so I had to open them up a bit. Easy with a drimal tool and vacuum. Of course it is my understanding that they should actually be angled outward as looking from the rear, and these are not. But one thing I'm not so sure about is the side to side location of the openings. I guess that the windshield is not "center" on the body side to side. These two photos show the location of the pre cut holes from FFR. Notice their location in comparison to the mold split lines... I guess that I'm assuming the mold lines are centered. I can see that the support bars seem to lay flat against their mounting locations when in the openings.
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Next I quickly realized that the support bars needed to be cut off some... took about 2 inches off of each one. Then remembered that I needed to move my ground bolt that I had on the windshield mount plate next to the fuse box. Ugh, that was not fun with the body on, but I did it. Relocated it and all is good in the universe.

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Then I decided that until I learn a little bit more about the installation of the windshield (side to side location, shims needed, etc, etc, etc) and found someone to assist that I would just pack it all back into the box and move on to something different. I mean, who needs a windshield anyways...

I'm really thinking that I should stop putting things on the body and take the body back off and do the undercoating first. Also need to tackle the side pipe openings as they need some modification.

[Papa]

Carl,

A couple of things to keep in mind when assembling and installing the windshield. First, when mounting the side brackets to the windshield, be sure that the screws don't bottom out against the windshield frame. I had to file down a few of the screws. Next, remember that you are dealing with brass and it is very soft. Don't over tighten or force any screw as you thread them in. When the rails go in through the body, be sure that the openings are completely clear and that the frames don't touch the body at all. Finally, be sure to shim any gap between the windshield frame and the chassis, so that as you tighten the bolts, they are not pulling the frame at all. There is quite a bit of play with the angle. I'll be mounting a top, so the angle has to be very specific, but without the top, it is less important.

Dave

[BadAsp427]

I got a nice head start on my 4 day weekend today so I was able to complete the wiring and install on my headlights. Also wired up the turn/parking lights. I installed weather pack connectors on each light so that I can disconnect them when needed to remove the body. Each light has it's own connector so that if for some reason I need to disconnect one, it doesn't effect the other.
The only thing I see that I will have to do is open up the center hole on the parking lights (make it oval) so the weather pack connector can fit through the fiberglass body. The body mount bracket is all ready cut to allow for it to go through. I did not want to grind on the fiberglass tonight, but it should not be to difficult to make it all fit.

And the good thing, at this point all work perfectly. Hazard, Parking and High/Low Beam Headlights. Very happy.


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Had to take an in work "Beauty" shot
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Tomorrow I will work on the rear lighting and what ever else may fall into place. I'm hoping to do a little go cart drive sometime in the next 3 / 4 days...

[cgundermann]

Getting close - pretty exciting stuff! Never get tired of seeing builds progress to this point and then final paint & assembly!

Chris

[AndyN]

So ever have one of those days where you spend 20-30 minutes composing an update, only to want to close the photo you are looking at but hit the "X" for the whole page... Yup... I just did....

91813
So, anyway, while I was waiting for my casters to arrive via FedEx (they did today) I was able to paint the chassis dolly. I used the red epoxy I had for the floor lines. I think it came out pretty good and at least initially seems to be a very hard finish... Should do very well.


91812
So today I installed the casters and got it flipped over, it is heavy, I would guess 200 lbs +/-.

91827
So now, I have to get the car out of the trailer, into the garage and then up onto the 21" dolly. I guess it is at this time that I should mention that I do just about everything by myself. I can get very creative as I did tonight...

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Ok, the body/chassis and the dolly are all in the garage, now if I only had special powers and could just point a finger at it and have it raise up onto the dolly.

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91826

91819
So, with a small floor jack that only has a max height of 14" and a dolly that is 7 inches higher that that, I had to get very creative with blocks of wood, jack stands, a bit of balancing the car and moving very slowly... it is up on the dolly and it is so easy to move around in the garage.

Tomorrow I will begin documenting and marking the body and aluminum pannels and get ready for the big undressing... The body buck is still in the trailer, but I should have no problem getting it into the garage and the body onto it in the next couple days.

AND THEN The real fun can begin.....

Hello. Just getting ready to receive my Roadster kit next week. Thanks for the Dolly plans. Do you have any details on the body Buck>
Thanks

[BadAsp427]

Hello. Just getting ready to receive my Roadster kit next week. Thanks for the Dolly plans. Do you have any details on the body Buck>
Thanks

Cant help you with that, the one I have came with the car, I did not build it...

[BadAsp427]

Working on the interior the past few days. Carpet, Leather (vinyl fake Leather).... I asked around about ways to fill in and seal off the large hole in the side of the Trans Tunnel where the E-Brake Handle mounts. Pretty much the response was don't worry about it. Well I was just not happy with that answer as I can not believe the "stuff" would not be thrown around up under there and in time create a mess. So this is what I came up with to address the problem, at least 98% of the problem. In my next thread entry, I'm going to show my rear wall where I installed some Leather above the carpet. I state this because I have extra leather that I used for this little modification to the E-Brake opening.

Basically, I used the E-Brake boot as a template, cute my leather so that the leather side would be towards the elements inside the trans tunnel. I cut it about 1/2" larger all the way around and found that this worked perfect. Then, I held it up in place to be sure that it was going to cover all of the opening and then marked the arc that the handle would be making so that I could cut out the slot for the handle to move within. I also drew a dotted line to indicate where I need it to fold 90* onto the floor as the opening cuts into the floor also. Once I was happy with that, I used 3M 77 Glue, same as I'm using for the carpet, and attached it to the side of the tunnel with the handle coming through the arc slot that I cut. I pushed it into the tunnel just enough so that all of the handle mechanisms were clear and not rubbing. I really think that this is going to do a great job. For me it is a bit of insurance from general debris, and heaven forbid I'm caught out in the rain, water from getting to the back side of the carpet.

The fake leather is from JoAnne's Fabric and is the Artic Vinyl (https://www.joann.com/artic-vinyl-54in-black/3526274.html) and is designed for Snowmobile Seats, good down to negitive 30*, UV protected and flame retardant.

Here are some photos in chronological order:
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[BadAsp427]

I wish I could take credit for this idea, but I'm sure many others have done this as well. I actually first got the idea from FixIt here on the forums.

I started this project with a cardboard template. Then transferred that to the leather and cut it out.

Next I cut and fit the chrome strip and pre-drilled all the holes for the rivets. (and I thought I was done with clekos and rivets.) I had all ready coated the interior with the Lizard Skin sound and heat treatment and this left some texture. So when I first put the leather on I did not realize just how bad the texture would actually show through into the leather. Well it looked really bad, that along with the rivet heads. I had actually thought the look was going to grow on me so I installed the chrome strip and everything. But the more I looked at it, the more I really began to dislike it. So I pealed it back, off of the wall and let it hang in place via the chrome strip. I then used a 2x4 block and some 120 grit sandpaper and smoothed it all out. Interesting thing happened. Even though there was glue on the Lizard Skin, as I sanded, all I got was some dust, it never once clogged the sandpaper and in fact in the photo below showing me holding the sandpaper block, that is the first and only piece of sandpaper I used after completing the entire sanding project. It looked like a new sheet of sandpaper. All the dust just vacuumed up. It all smoothed out really well, did not take a lot and it came out really nice IMO. I just resprayed the 3M 77 contact glue and put it back up in place. Installed the carpet onto the back wall and continued the carpet install following the FF Build Manual. Next, the tunnel cover and shifter boot install.

The "Leather" is from JoAnne's Fabric and is the Artic Vinyl (https://www.joann.com/artic-vinyl-54in-black/3526274.html)
The Chrome strip is anodized aluminum tile Edge Trim from Lowe's (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Schluter-Systems-Rondec-0-375-in-W-x-98-5-in-L-Aluminum-Tile-Edge-Trim/1000003440), Home Depot also as a version.

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[Straversi]

Nicely done. That looks sharp.
-Steve

[BadAsp427]

After completing all of the carpet install, I was left with only the transmission tunnel cover and shifter boot to be installed to complete the interior floor. I'll start by saying, I know the shifter hole filler is showing up pretty bad. I'm contemplating a fix for it. Since the tunnel cover comes off pretty easy, I'm going to do that fix as some point in the future.

So to start off, just as I did on the rear wall, I started by sanding the Lizard Skin to smooth out it's texture so that I did not have a repeat of the bumps showing through the leather. Again, it sanded very easy and with only dust to vacuum up. Pretty easy, laid the trans cover onto the leather, and cut out a piece that was about 2" extra all around to be sure that I had enough to wrap around as needed. Sprayed on the 3M 77 and then just laid the cover down onto the leather ( I had it laying on a flat surface ). Next I wrapped it around the the ends of the trans cover streached and pulled it tight and glued down the ends, clamps held in place until dried. Next, I measured and cut the chrome strips to fit, matching the angles needed on each end. I did NOT wrap the leather around the sides of the trans cover as I covered the edges with the chrome strip. It actually "clamps" in place. The way I did the "clamping" I placed the edge of the trans cover and chrome strip on the edge of my work bench and used a large rubber mallet with a rag zip tied onto it and hammered the chrome strip down on to the leather.


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Next, the Shifter Boot. So anyone who has tried to use the factory five provide boot has probably found that it is very tight and in my case, so tight that when I installed it, it actually pulled the shifter out of gear and back to neutral. Can't have that while you are driving down the road... So, I started to look around and found that there were many options, but none of them were in my garage right now. So I pulled out my sewing machine, blew the dust off of it and went to work to try and make my own shifter boot. I started with some of the 8,547 feet of brown packaging paper I have left from FF and created a template. I actually made one that was close to the shape of the funnel in the photo below, but it turned out way too long and not large enough at the base... Then I re thought my process, my final needs and came up with a template and a shifter boot that I think I can live with. Photos below...

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Want to also recognize and thank Chad (CV2065) for being a great sounding board and helping me make a few decisions along the way on these two projects.

[cv2065]

After completing all of the carpet install, I was left with only the transmission tunnel cover and shifter boot to be installed to complete the interior floor. I'll start by saying, I know the shifter hole filler is showing up pretty bad. I'm contemplating a fix for it. Since the tunnel cover comes off pretty easy, I'm going to do that fix as some point in the future.

So to start off, just as I did on the rear wall, I started by sanding the Lizard Skin to smooth out it's texture so that I did not have a repeat of the bumps showing through the leather. Again, it sanded very easy and with only dust to vacuum up. Pretty easy, laid the trans cover onto the leather, and cut out a piece that was about 2" extra all around to be sure that I had enough to wrap around as needed. Sprayed on the 3M 77 and then just laid the cover down onto the leather ( I had it laying on a flat surface ). Next I wrapped it around the the ends of the trans cover streached and pulled it tight and glued down the ends, clamps held in place until dried. Next, I measured and cut the chrome strips to fit, matching the angles needed on each end. I did NOT wrap the leather around the sides of the trans cover as I covered the edges with the chrome strip. It actually "clamps" in place. The way I did the "clamping" I placed the edge of the trans cover and chrome strip on the edge of my work bench and used a large rubber mallet with a rag zip tied onto it and hammered the chrome strip down on to the leather.


98449 98450

Next, the Shifter Boot. So anyone who has tried to use the factory five provide boot has probably found that it is very tight and in my case, so tight that when I installed it, it actually pulled the shifter out of gear and back to neutral. Can't have that while you are driving down the road... So, I started to look around and found that there were many options, but none of them were in my garage right now. So I pulled out my sewing machine, blew the dust off of it and went to work to try and make my own shifter boot. I started with some of the 8,547 feet of brown packaging paper I have left from FF and created a template. I actually made one that was close to the shape of the funnel in the photo below, but it turned out way too long and not large enough at the base... Then I re thought my process, my final needs and came up with a template and a shifter boot that I think I can live with. Photos below...

98451 98452 98453 98454 98455 98456

Want to also recognize and thank Chad (CV2065) for being a great sounding board and helping me make a few decisions along the way on these two projects.

Looking good man!! That shifter boot is a work of art! Thanks for all your help as well!

[Boydster]

Nice work. The back wall and the trim pieces look great.

[BadAsp427]

Today I finished putting the interior together, here is the final look.

What you can not see (because they are not on) is that I also installed red LED courtesy lights over each foot box. Red because at the moment, that is the color of the car!!!

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I also installed my Battery Cutoff switch. I installed it up in the inside top corner of the passenger side foot box. All the way forward, just pulled back the corner of carpet and it is actually hidden behind the carpet. There when I need it, out of the way and sight until I do....

[BadAsp427]

Took the go cart out for a drive around the neighborhood today. Primary goal was to see if the cruise control was going to function. Either I did not get up to a fast enough speed, or it is not working correctly. I happen to live on a road that is highly traveled by our finest folks in blue so I really can't just - go for a drive. I'll get it figured out, I'm very confident of my wiring except for the speed sensor from the transmission. There is a gray and a green wire. From the cruise control, there is only one wire that needs to be connected to one of those two. Not sure exactly the correct one. Hmmmm...

Anyway, here is about 10 minutes of go cart drive. When I first started out, for some reason, my idle was adjusted way too high so I just turned around and took care of that, then right back out. Also had a little laugh at myself as I could not find Reverse.... Actually, I was going in and out of it while I was looking for it. I'm just not use to such a short throw shifter and thought that it was not going into reverse. Also, you can/will hear the side pipe hanger brackets rattle as I do not have them hooked up just yet. I'm waiting for my final headers to show up and want to be sure I only drill the frame rails once for them.


https://youtu.be/Y5HBwWaMYAU

[cv2065]

Looked like a lot of fun Carl! Looked like you were freezing your ball bearings off!

[BadAsp427]

Looked like a lot of fun Carl! Looked like you were freezing your ball bearings off!

Not at all... I was actually layered up from a day of working outside at work. I was actually very warm and the heater was blowing hot and the seats were warm as well... LOL It was a lot of fun. Just need to figure out the cruise control...

[Higgybulin]

That had to be one of the longest go karts ever!!! Congrats!!! Your moving pretty fast on your build!

[Fixit]

Looks like a LOT of fun...
What make/model cruise control setup are you using?

[BadAsp427]

Looks like a LOT of fun...
What make/model cruise control setup are you using?

The one sold by Ron Francis. I'm thinking my problem is that I do not have the wires connected correctly from the speed sensor on my transmission going into the harness. I'm going to do some troubleshooting on it today to be sure that I'm connected to the correct wire under the dash. It has the green and gray wire, but the Cruise only requires the use of one of them.

[BadAsp427]

This weekend I devoted my time to the inside/underside of the body. I installed the FF pre-made louvers. Using the same method as EdwardB (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=247719&viewfull=1#post247719), Papa and many others. The HSRF works great and is crazy strong. You can get the stud plates from McMaster-Carr, Part 97590A569 (https://www.mcmaster.com/97590A569) A couple things that you can not see in the photo that IMO will make this a nice install. 1- I first mounted the louvers with the studs mounted on them and marked the inside of my body with a sharpy. Then I scuffed up the fiberglass really good inside my marks for the HSRF to adhere to. 2- I mounted the mounting brackets to the louvers with about .080 of space between the front edge of the louver (body edge) and the front edge of the bracket. This was to allow for clearance of the stud plate and to allow the edge of the louver to pull up flush to the side of the body, the goal, no gaps between the fiberglass and the louver. Nice tight fit. 3- When I was actually ready to install the stud plate with the HSRF I used 4 #10 washers between the stud plate and the mounting bracket to hold the louvers up off of the HSRF as it was setting up. 4- I did not have any 10-32 non locking nuts so I used some nutcerts to hold the stud plates to the bracket while the HSRF was setting up.

Then, about 8 minutes after putting the HSRF on and mounting the louvers, I took a knife and cut down the HSRF to reduce the amount of sanding with the Drimal tool.

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To get ready to do the undercoat, I first removed everything I had previously mounted, Headlights, Tail Lights, Gas Cap etc.
Next I flipped the body upside down. Because I had it hanging on four corners with straps, I just lowered one side down until the body was basically hanging on edge and then lowered it to the floor. Once on the floor, on the drivers side, It was very balanced and I just disconnected the straps and then laid it on over onto the floor. I have an old piece of carpet that I use for this kind of thing that I had laid out and vacuumed up real good first. Taped up all the openings to help reduce the amount of the undercoating getting onto the outer red gel coat and then got to it! Then taped up the louver studs.

Next, I opened up the undercoating kit (DupliColor Bed Armor) and started following the instructions. Scuffed up the entire underside of the body, actually wore out the heavy duty scotch bright pad that came with the kit and used a couple others that I had. This was actually not that difficult of a task, just got down on my knees and went to it. Took me about 20 minutes. Then followed up that with a good vacuuming and then a complete wipe down with lacquer thinner. The kit comes with a simple stir stick and instructions that state to shake and then mix the product well before use. I will tell you, I had to get the power mixer and drill out to do this. The stuff was very thick at the bottom of the can, but it did mix up very well and being water solvable, it was easy to clean up.

I first went around and did all the areas that I felt the roller was not going to be able to get, and then tried to use the roller, I ended up just using the brush on the whole thing, went very easy and quickly. I left about a 2" area around all the wheel openings to allow for body work when the painter gets to it. Extra thick in the areas prone to get rocks slung up to prevent staring of the paint once that is done.

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This is only the first coat, it is drying as I type up this update.... Now I need to go put on a second coat and per the instructions, it can be thicker...

[cv2065]

Very professional looking Carl!!

[BadAsp427]

The past few days I've been working more on the body. Have several coats of undercoating/bed liner on the wheel wells as well as a couple coats on the rest of the body underside. I've also installed the side louvers and re-installed the rear tail lights and gas cap. Also Re-installed the headlight buckets, will do the glass headlight bulbs once the body is back on the car. Everything looks really good.

I do have a question for the specialists / Paint and Body Guys on here... The rear tail lights seem to be larger than the flat body area where they mount. Is this normal? I've put a couple photos below.

Tail Lights Installed.
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Louvers Installed.
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Headlights
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[Jeff Kleiner]

Your tail lights are lights e everyone else's Carl.

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

Your tail lights are like everyone else's Carl.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff....

[BadAsp427]

Last night I discovered the issue with my cruise control, it was a very easy fix. Seems the Gray and Green wire coming off of the speed sensor both have to be used. The Cruise control only has one of those wires going to it, but the other must go to ground. In my case, I connected the cruise control speed sensor wire to the green "speed sensor" wire in the RF harness. The gray wire needs to go to ground and as luck would have it, the end of the gray wire behind the dash was wrapped up and just laying right next to one of the many ground wires in the RF harness... 30 seconds to add a connector to the gray wire and plugged it into the ground wire and the cruise control wiring all passed the self diagnostic test. Any other adjustments that need to be make with the cruise can be done from the control module that is easily accessible from the PS just behind the dash and next to the glove box. I'm very happy with it now and it should function for me next time I get to drive this awesome roadster.

Then, I spent today putting everything together for what I hope will be the final time until it goes to the Jeff Kleiner next fall for paint and body work. I completed the following installs today.

- Closed up the DS Foot Box... seems so final... I guess that's a good thing.
- Installed 1/4" foam seal on top of the DS Foot Box where it attaches to the 3/4" frame tubing
- Put on the Expanding Foam seal just forward of the door hinges.
- Installed bulb seal where needed
- Lowered the body down onto the chassis.
- Installed the quick jacks front and rear.
- Re-installed the Headlights and all marker/brake lights.
- Connected all wiring for the above lights.
- Installed the Roll bars with chrome/rubber grommets.
- Connected the Fuel Tank to the Gas Cap and Gas Cap Ground Strap.
- Installed the Clutch Cable support bracket to the front of the DS head.
- Installed the Clutch cable/arm cover on side of bell housing.

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Tomorrow, if all goes well I will install the trunk lid, both doors and re-install the hood. Also need to fit up the aluminum panels in the wheel-wells and perhaps even the radiator panels.

[BadAsp427]

Today was not as overall productive as I had hoped for, got a call into work for a few hours in the middle of the day...
I was able to get the trunk installed, the pneumatic hinges work great as does the latch. I have to say that whomever designed the latch bar concept has never actually installed it on a roadster that is in the build stage that it is required to be in to build it. The photos in the manual actually show it being installed through the body and into a bare frame. I guess I have to remove my fuel tank, to actually install it the way they are showing.... Not going to happen. Would love to hear how some of you may have installed the latch bar nut that goes between the lower trunk wall and the fuel tank... Either way, the latch bar is installed without the nut for now. It really can't move or go anywhere. I'm thinking I'm going to put in some kind of a nutcert to screw the latch bar into.

I placed the trunk lid in place and marked some areas to trim around the side. Not trimming to final gap measurements, just good enough to close and look half decent until it's time for paint/body work.

The pneumatic hinge kit is from FFR, you have to ask for it I guess, it is not listed anywhere I do not believe. The Pneumatic cylinder connects to the 3/4" bar that runs just under the seat belts, and just next to the seat belts. The other end attaches to the hinges. The hinges they sent me were cut out of very nice stainless steel.

I also took some time to cut out the trunk access hole fill plate and drilled it for rivets later after paint and body work is complete. I started with using painters tape over the opening, drew the shape onto the tape, then put the tape onto a piece of thin cardboard, cut it out, put it in place and made some final trim adjustments, then transferred the shape onto a piece of aluminum and cut it out. Did a little bending over my leg to get close to the curve of the trunk lid. Then, marked out some fairly evenly spaced rivet holes and drilled them. Then, I placed the plate in place, drilled one hole on bottom. Clekoed it in place and then went one at a time, drill, cleko, drill, cleko to hold the curve in shape as I went along. I also used 320 grit sandpaper to "brush" the aluminum and then used shark skin to finish it off. I'll have to store this away until the paining is completed, but at least it is all set and ready, I'll rivet it in place when all is said and done.

I do still need to run the license plate light wiring into the trunk lid.

Here are some photos of all of it together...

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[Papa]

Today was not as overall productive as I had hoped for, got a call into work for a few hours in the middle of the day...
I was able to get the trunk installed, the pneumatic hinges work great as does the latch. I have to say that whomever designed the latch bar concept has never actually installed it on a roadster that is in the build stage that it is required to be in to build it. The photos in the manual actually show it being installed through the body and into a bare frame. I guess I have to remove my fuel tank, to actually install it the way they are showing.... Not going to happen. Would love to hear how some of you may have installed the latch bar nut that goes between the lower trunk wall and the fuel tank... Either way, the latch bar is installed without the nut for now. It really can't move or go anywhere. I'm thinking I'm going to put in some kind of a nutcert to screw the latch bar into.

I placed the trunk lid in place and marked some areas to trim around the side. Not trimming to final gap measurements, just good enough to close and look half decent until it's time for paint/body work.

The pneumatic hinge kit is from FFR, you have to ask for it I guess, it is not listed anywhere I do not believe. The Pneumatic cylinder connects to the 3/4" bar that runs just under the seat belts, and just next to the seat belts. The other end attaches to the hinges. The hinges they sent me were cut out of very nice stainless steel.

I also took some time to cut out the trunk access hole fill plate and drilled it for rivets later after paint and body work is complete. I started with using painters tape over the opening, drew the shape onto the tape, then put the tape onto a piece of thin cardboard, cut it out, put it in place and made some final trim adjustments, then transferred the shape onto a piece of aluminum and cut it out. Did a little bending over my leg to get close to the curve of the trunk lid. Then, marked out some fairly evenly spaced rivet holes and drilled them. Then, I placed the plate in place, drilled one hole on bottom. Clekoed it in place and then went one at a time, drill, cleko, drill, cleko to hold the curve in shape as I went along. I also used 320 grit sandpaper to "brush" the aluminum and then used shark skin to finish it off. I'll have to store this away until the paining is completed, but at least it is all set and ready, I'll rivet it in place when all is said and done.

I do still need to run the license plate light wiring into the trunk lid.

Here are some photos of all of it together...



Too funny … I spent 20 minutes cursing this exact same thing today. My hands aren't as thick as those that use them on more than a keyboard for a living. ;) I eventually got it installed with the nut for the second time during my build. It's doable, but if you have big hands you may need to recruit the neighbor kid to thread the nut on and hold a wrench on it.

Dave

[Jeff Kleiner]

Carl,
You rendered the space for the latch rod nut unreachable when you did the drop trunk box. With a flat floor you install the nut by going through the center access hole and swearing alot ;) I often do the same thing for these that I do for the quick jack/bumper bolts and use a short screw and coupler nut; i.e., a miniature (10-24) "coupler mod"---but you still have to plan far enough in advance to install the screw from the backside.

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

Oh.... so it’s all my fault. I think I can put in a fix easy enough. That makes sense now that you say that about my drop trunk. Thanks Jeff.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Oh.... so it’s all my fault. I think I can put in a fix easy enough. That makes sense now that you say that about my drop trunk. Thanks Jeff.

Yeah, all your fault :p;):D

Easy fix; just take an inch or so hole saw and go through the drop box panel in line with the latch pin so that you have access to put a nut on the screw. How do I know it's an easy fix? Because I had to do the same with my own about a dozen years ago!

Jeff

[Cruzzz]

Does the pneumatic hinge come with the trunk has strut kit or is it something you have to ask for special?


Today was not as overall productive as I had hoped for, got a call into work for a few hours in the middle of the day...
I was able to get the trunk installed, the pneumatic hinges work great as does the latch. I have to say that whomever designed the latch bar concept has never actually installed it on a roadster that is in the build stage that it is required to be in to build it. The photos in the manual actually show it being installed through the body and into a bare frame. I guess I have to remove my fuel tank, to actually install it the way they are showing.... Not going to happen. Would love to hear how some of you may have installed the latch bar nut that goes between the lower trunk wall and the fuel tank... Either way, the latch bar is installed without the nut for now. It really can't move or go anywhere. I'm thinking I'm going to put in some kind of a nutcert to screw the latch bar into.

I placed the trunk lid in place and marked some areas to trim around the side. Not trimming to final gap measurements, just good enough to close and look half decent until it's time for paint/body work.

The pneumatic hinge kit is from FFR, you have to ask for it I guess, it is not listed anywhere I do not believe. The Pneumatic cylinder connects to the 3/4" bar that runs just under the seat belts, and just next to the seat belts. The other end attaches to the hinges. The hinges they sent me were cut out of very nice stainless steel.

I also took some time to cut out the trunk access hole fill plate and drilled it for rivets later after paint and body work is complete. I started with using painters tape over the opening, drew the shape onto the tape, then put the tape onto a piece of thin cardboard, cut it out, put it in place and made some final trim adjustments, then transferred the shape onto a piece of aluminum and cut it out. Did a little bending over my leg to get close to the curve of the trunk lid. Then, marked out some fairly evenly spaced rivet holes and drilled them. Then, I placed the plate in place, drilled one hole on bottom. Clekoed it in place and then went one at a time, drill, cleko, drill, cleko to hold the curve in shape as I went along. I also used 320 grit sandpaper to "brush" the aluminum and then used shark skin to finish it off. I'll have to store this away until the paining is completed, but at least it is all set and ready, I'll rivet it in place when all is said and done.

I do still need to run the license plate light wiring into the trunk lid.

Here are some photos of all of it together...

99102 99103 99104 99105 99106 99107 99108 99109 99110 99111

[BadAsp427]

Does the pneumatic hinge come with the trunk has strut kit or is it something you have to ask for special?

You have to ask for it as an option, otherwise you would use a prop rod of some sort. The hinges and the pneumatic cylinders and the mounting hardware all comes with the kit when you order that kit.

[Fixit]

you rendered the space for the latch rod nut unreachable when you did the drop trunk box. With a flat floor you install the nut by going through the center access hole and swearing alot ;)

Hmmm... NOW this little tidbit of reasonably important information comes out 99162

Ok, another access hole & grommet is in my future.

[BadAsp427]

Hmmm... NOW this little tidbit of reasonably important information comes out 99162

Ok, another access hole & grommet is in my future.

I really think it is a simple fix with a nutsert in there... The good thing is that all the "pressure" on this bar is upward/downward, not in and out so it should be just fine with the nutsert...

[Fixit]

Now that I've got my driveline angles sorted out my attention turned to the trans tunnel cover... and I'm gonna steal an idea from you!

I like the chrome edge on the tunnel... again, a neat transition from carpet to leather/nauga/whatever. 99237

[BadAsp427]

Now that I've got my driveline angles sorted out my attention turned to the trans tunnel cover... and I'm gonna steal an idea from you!

I like the chrome edge on the tunnel... again, a neat transition from carpet to leather/nauga/whatever. 99237

Used the same metal as we used on the rear panel... FYI, I had to trim the entire length of it in order to fit it as the edge of the tunnel cover is shorter than the edge of the strip we are using.

[BadAsp427]

Today I worked on two projects. First up, the Radiator Cowling / Shrouding.

To begin with, I had all ready installed my version of the breeze style lower mount with my radiator at a 51* angle. I did that a couple weeks ago. Today, I started with the aluminum side panels and the lower lip panel. The 20th Anniversary kit came with two set of these, one set powder coated white to match the rest of the engine compartment and a set of plain aluminum ones. I actually chose, at least for now, the plain aluminum look. I also wanted to put some kind of a protective screen on in front of the radiator itself to provide some protection from normal road debris.

So to start with, I found an all aluminum construction, screen door protector that as luck would have it was exactly 20" x 24", the same as the radiator. Since this came in a nice preformed frame, I only had to cut off the 4 tabs that were on each corner for mounting to a door. Cleaned them up with a file and put a couple rivets in to reinforce the current rivets for strength. Was able to lay it in place and used a clamp to hold it while I fit the three panels around the outside edges of the radiator.

First up was the lower lip. Because of the frame from the protector panel, I had to trim the lower lip piece by taking about 3/4 of an inch off the front edge, it is the edge that is up inside the body above the oil cooler opening. When it is all done, it will have three pieces of the bulb seal holding it tight into that area. The back edge was screwed with self taping screws through the lower lip, the frame of the protection screen and into the lower mounting edge of the radiator. I'll leave it like this until after I get the paint done and then replace the self tapping screws with some nice stainless steel screws and locking nuts.

Once that lower lip was installed, I started working on the side pieces. I only had to do a little trimming here and there to get them to slide into place. It's not a tight fit up against the body, but it most defiantly directs the air to the radiator where it will do the most good. I marked the 3/4" tube from the outside of each side and drilled 1/8" holes. On the DS I also had to cut out two 7/8" holes to allow for the panel to sit flush onto the 3/4" tube as I have nut/bolts holding my horns on on that 3/4" tube. Again, drilled the 1/8" holes. Then I marked the 3/4" tubes and drilled them to match.

I removed all of the panels and using 320 grit sandpaper, created a smooth finish with straight lines (brushed look) I then treated all of the panels with 3 coats of Shark Hide to protect them and make them really look nice. I then reinstalled them using 1/2" self tapping screws. Again, I'm using the self tapping screws so that they can be easily removed for paint/body next year.

Here are some photos of the entire process.

99404 99405 99407 99406 99408 99409 99410 99411

[BadAsp427]

The rear wheel splash guards went in with zero trimming needed. I followed the build manual instructions and fit everything in place as directed. Using some clekos and a 1/8" drill bit, drilled the splash guard and into the side panel and 3/4" & 2" frame tubes. Pretty straight forward.

Next I used 320 grit sandpaper to make the panel look nice with straight line brushed look passes with sandpaper. Next I used the Sharkhide to protect it and make it shine, 3 coats. This was only done on the side that will be towards the tires. This will make the entire wheel well bare aluminum.

Next I flipped the splash guards over and using 150 grit sandpaper really scuffed up the panel in preparation of putting some bed liner on them. I did this mostly to provide some sound deadening to the panel. I was out of the Lizard Skin sound coating or I would have used that and top coated it with the bed liner. Either way, the bed liner proved to do a very good job of deadening the sound as well as match everything behind the splash guards; the gas tank, the body interior, etc is all black. Cleaned the panels real good with acetone and started off with a fairly thin coat of bed liner and then after it dried, applied a nice, thick coat. It made for a nice clean installation.

Then, mounted the panels using #8-1/2" self tapping screws in the 1/8" holes I pre drilled. On the PS I had to include one large notch to fit over the bolt head that is holding the ground strap for the fuel fill nozzle. Installed the bulb seal all the way around and everything made for a very nice, tight fit.

Here are some photos of the total process.

99412 99413 99421 99414 99415 99416 99417 99418 99419 99420

[BadAsp427]

Just was thinking, I'm just 4 mo and 3 days into my build and I'm just about ready to call it done until Paint and Body work begins next fall. If you are new, and looking to build one of these beautiful cars, there are many different ideas and levels of builds to be found here. Over the top builds and very straight forward build it and drive it builds. When I started my build, I wanted something that was built primarily straight out of the box that Factory Five produced. I've stuck to that for the most part. I've added a couple nice little modifications, but I've used nearly every part that came in the boxes. Perhaps later on, I'll replace some of the parts with different, more advanced or improved parts. But to start with, if I paid for it with the kit, I wanted to use it. I'm enjoying the journey and am excited to know that in only a couple weeks, my journey will include some much anticipated drive/seat time behind my BadAsp steering wheel....

Merry Christmas Everyone!!!

====
99425
====

[PeteMeindl]

Merry Christmas to you, too, BadAsp! Thanks for all of your help!

[BadAsp427]

So today was windshield day... Actually it went pretty well. I actually followed a couple of other's threads and it really wasn't too bad. Below, I do not really repeat what is in those two threads so IMO it is must reading if you are getting ready to do your windshield. Espically the one from Gumball as he was very detailed in his post. I had a friend over to help me maneuver it around. So to start with, the two threads that I read, reread and then for giggles, read them again and pretty much followed to the letter.
First one is a post from Paul (EdwardB) on another thread and I quoted it below for quick reference: CLICK HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23963-Windshield-Fitting&p=273813&viewfull=1#post273813)


It's tight on the DS, but as long as you don't block the opening behind the dash, you can reach back in there. One tip that makes installing the windshield a whole bunch easier that I also mentioned in my last build thread. Probably one of the best tips I’ve tried in a long time. Saw it somewhere on one of the forums and tried it for the first time. Instead of just drilling out the 1/2-inch holes in the windshield side bars, drill them 27/64-inch and cut threads with a 1/2-inch x 13 tap. Easy to cut threads in the brass. That way you only have to put in a bolt from one side in each of the holes when mounting and aligning the windshield. Way easier than bolt + nut + wrench on each side while chasing around a moving windshield. When tightened, they're nice and strong. Put a nut and washer on each bolt during final assembly, but before then they hold the windshield solidly during the build.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/th_IMG_0489_zps6yzw6t6u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0489_zps6yzw6t6u.jpg.html)

Second one and the most informative is from (Gumball) CLICK HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11445-Windshield-reasemmbly-and-fitting-to-chassis-hoping-to-avoid-cracks&p=115761&viewfull=1#post115761)

The biggest thing and I have to tell you that I can not thank EdwardB enough for stressing this in his post, Tap threads into the support bars. It made the install absolutely a breeze and only took me about 30 minutes to drill and tap the 4 holes, worth EVERY MINUTE!!!!!!

So to start off with I completed all of the prep work that is discussed in the second thread listed above. Only thing I did not have to worry about was the edge of my windshield. I found it to be smooth all the way around and not the "chipped" up look as was evident on Gumball's. I did have a couple of the mounting screws that go through the mount frame into the windshield frame that were a tad too long so I adjusted them with the bench grinder. Nothing much, just a couple seconds on each one. Then with the help of a friend, we found that the pre-cut body holes from FF were not exactly correct. So we were able to mark the actual needed area to be cut out of the body and started with that. Once we were able to actually drop the frame bars into the body cutouts, things started to take shape. I found that on the drivers side, the support bar was perfectly flat against the chassis mount. I mean, no gap, no pressure, just sitting perfect. Then I started making measurements and comparing both sides. I found that from the rear door opening, the corner closest to the seat to the bottom of the frame where it dropped into the body was exactly 32" on both sides... perfect so far.... Then I measured from that exact same point up to the top frame screw, 27 1/2" on both sides. Next I marked the holes with a sharpy, of course the passenger side is pretty simple. The Drivers side was not hard, but took a bit of feeling around to find the mounting holes to mark... Done. Good marks, pulled the windshield out removed and center punched the bars and went to the drill press to begin cutting in the 27/64" hole to prepare to tap it to the 1/2" - 13 required... Like I said, DO THIS, You will thank yourself... Next, put the frames back on the windshield (taking note to install the two shorter screws back in their proper holes) and dropped it back onto the body.

As I said the drivers side was flat against the frame mount so it was as easy as putting a washer on the bolt and threading it in finger tight. Then on the PS I found that the bottom hole needed one thick washer and the top hole needed two thick washer to ensure there was no unneeded stress on the windshield. At least it sure seems that way. I tightened down the PS bolts finger tight and then again checked my measurements. I found I was off a bit and loosened up the bolts ever so slightly and found my centered point again with the 32" and 27 1/2" measurements. (FYI, these are my measurements, everyone's could be a bit different and if your planning to install a top, I believe the measurement is to be 27", follow the install manual for that information) Snugged down the bolts, remember, they are threaded into the support bars in the holes that I tapped out. They actually tightened up really nice. Then I was able to thread on some serrated based self locking nuts to lock everything in place. I have not yet put a lock nut on the PS Bottom bolt as the frame bar directly next to the hole is so close that I can not get a nut on the bolt.... Still trying to figure what I'm going to do there. Perhaps just some red Locktite. TBD. And there you have it, a windshield... and what a difference it makes in the look of the car...

Sure, there was a little extra time involved in prep work, but to keep as much stress off of the windshield frame up front I hope will be worth it and prevent my windshield from cracking. Time will tell. Whooo Hoooo!

Oh, Jeff Kleiner, you will have a little extra work to do to clean up the openings in the body where I had to open them up from the FF cutouts... Not too bad, but a little...

Here are some photos I took along the way.

All the parts laid out and ready. I actually was ready to use some of the spacer
shims from the brakes if needed, but ended up not needing them at all.
99466

And here are the rest of the photos that I took. Again, if you have not read the above two threads, I would highly recommend you do before you install your windshield.
99467 99468 99469 99470 99471 99472 99473 99474

[Jeff Kleiner]

.... Perhaps just some red Locktite...

NO! Please don't!


Oh, Jeff Kleiner, you will have a little extra work to do to clean up the openings in the body where I had to open them up from the FF cutouts... Not too bad, but a little...

No problem, and not the first ;)

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Hey B-B-Bad & J-J-Jeffski,

Thanks for posting because I'm exactly at this point and my windshield fits the same way.
I'm flush against the driver's side and a little off on the passenger's side which will require a couple of washers.
Again Gents, Thanks For Posting!

Steve

[BadAsp427]

NO! Please don't!

Jeff

Thought that would get your attention!

[BadAsp427]

Today, after I dealt with the broken windshield wiper motor, I turned my attention to getting the doors hung. It was actually pretty easy and I only did a very little bit of trimming just enough to get the doors to fit. I'll leave the gap setting to the professional... Jeff K.

I started with the PS and followed the build manual. Things went pretty smoothly. Had a little problem with the striker bolt length. It was too long due to the carpeting behind it. I easily cut it off with a hack saw after I determined the number of washers/spacers I needed. Once that was completed, the door latch was installed, again following the build manual's guide. The door is in pretty good alignment. The latch works great and latches easily with either a firm push or of course, a pull on the lever as you close it. Seems to be a nice solid close / latch.

The DS door was a bit more difficult but went on ok. My problem with the DS is that the Striker needs to come outboard about 1/8" -1/4" further than it can. So at the moment, when the door is closed and latched, the top rear of it is actually in about 1/8" too far. I the height of the door seems good on the front and rear. the bottom of the door lined right up on the front end and I had to pull the body out a bit in front of the rear tires. I screwed the body into place from the bottom with two self tapping screws. If the door is only latched into the secondary latch position, the alignment is good. Again, I'll leave it at this point and allow Jeff K to make the proper adjustments when that time comes.

Since I'm going to be driving in Gel Coat for awhile, I'm not extremely concerned if the fit and alignment is not perfect.

Some photos...
99694 99695 99696 99697 99698 99699 99700 99701 99702

[Jeff Kleiner]

Not bad for now Carl! Did you use the laser cut spacers between the door and latch on the driver's side? The driver's side often takes two spacers &/or elongating the striker slot in the chassis to help the top of the door to meet the body...but that's just rainy day work if you're so inclined ;)

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

Not bad for now Carl! Did you use the laser cut spacers between the door and latch on the driver's side? The driver's side often takes two spacers &/or elongating the striker slot in the chassis to help the top of the door to meet the body...but that's just rainy day work if you're so inclined ;)

Jeff

Thanks for the information Jeff. Yes, there is one spacer there. I also used one on the passenger side. I think I may have another spacer in a box of misc parts that I received with my kit from the original owner. I'll look at that when I get out to the garage today. I'll need to pick up some longer screws as well.

[Vspeeds]

Working on the interior the past few days. Carpet, Leather (vinyl fake Leather).... I asked around about ways to fill in and seal off the large hole in the side of the Trans Tunnel where the E-Brake Handle mounts. Pretty much the response was don't worry about it. Well I was just not happy with that answer as I can not believe the "stuff" would not be thrown around up under there and in time create a mess. So this is what I came up with to address the problem, at least 98% of the problem. In my next thread entry, I'm going to show my rear wall where I installed some Leather above the carpet. I state this because I have extra leather that I used for this little modification to the E-Brake opening.

Basically, I used the E-Brake boot as a template, cute my leather so that the leather side would be towards the elements inside the trans tunnel. I cut it about 1/2" larger all the way around and found that this worked perfect. Then, I held it up in place to be sure that it was going to cover all of the opening and then marked the arc that the handle would be making so that I could cut out the slot for the handle to move within. I also drew a dotted line to indicate where I need it to fold 90* onto the floor as the opening cuts into the floor also. Once I was happy with that, I used 3M 77 Glue, same as I'm using for the carpet, and attached it to the side of the tunnel with the handle coming through the arc slot that I cut. I pushed it into the tunnel just enough so that all of the handle mechanisms were clear and not rubbing. I really think that this is going to do a great job. For me it is a bit of insurance from general debris, and heaven forbid I'm caught out in the rain, water from getting to the back side of the carpet.

The fake leather is from JoAnne's Fabric and is the Artic Vinyl (https://www.joann.com/artic-vinyl-54in-black/3526274.html) and is designed for Snowmobile Seats, good down to negitive 30*, UV protected and flame retardant.

Here are some photos in chronological order:
98369 98370 98371 98372 98373 98374 98375

Great idea with the e brake cover. Mind if I copy?

[Vspeeds]

Carl
There is so much info on this forum thatt i can’t keep up. Im glad I just came across and read through your thread. Thanks for sharing

[BadAsp427]

Great idea with the e brake cover. Mind if I copy?

LOL... If I said yes, I mind and you did it anyway, would I ever know...... Sure, if this helps you, please by all means use it...