Please Graduate FFR #8352

[DANW]

Huge shout out and thank you to my wife, Kay, who encouraged me to do this build (it was her idea to start with!) and supported me every step of the way. Also thanks to the forum vendors Breeze, Russ Thompson, Mike Everson, Mike Forte and Jeff Kleiner. Thanks to all the other forum members for sharing thoughts, ideas and photos - it was a HUGE help and greatly appreciated!

91578915799158091581915839158491585915869158791588
• MK4 Complete Kit shipped 9/15/12
• All from Forte: Coyote Engine, JMS Custom tune, QuickTime bell housing, TKO 500-IRS 3.55 gears Torsen, Midshfter, Hydraulic clutch, 255 Fuel Pump, Power steering with SS tube for plumbing
• 3/8 fuel lines 5/16 return SS tubing front to back, SS brake lines and clutch lines
• Gas-N SS side pipes, SS ceramic coated Headers
• E-Stop electric parking brake
• Upgraded Willwood brakes (6 piston front)
• Kumho Ecsta tires: 315x35r 17” back; 255x40r 17” front
• Breeze hood hinges and SS Roll Bars
• Chrome radiator, power steering, oil caps and gas cap
• Flaming river steering wheel
• Cobra Replica tail and parking lights from Shell Valley

Items that I customized and fabricated on my own
• Custom aluminum bent Firewall, foot box, dash, under dash, radiator cover, radiator snout, lowered trunk floor. Purchased 4X8 sheets of aluminum, with lots of trial and error!
• Completely finished and sealed front and rear wheel wells using ABS plastic and aluminum
• Front grill, brake ducts and hood scope vent made from 5/16 round bar and Chromed
• Steel side vents to match grill, and chromed; Very challenging to get it right, lots of trial and error here also
• Chrome accents on the top of the radiator cover, footwell in engine compartment to hide rivets and inside trunk. Made from 5/16 aluminum rod milled down to half thickness then chromed.
• Electric bear claw door openers with outside door touch pad and door side panel interior switch
• Electric trunk latch
• Milled license plate bracket and rear LED brake light
• 3 speed RV blower, vents going to front and bottom of the dash
• Modified FFR seats, back of seats extended 4 inches. Heated driver and passenger seats and driver side is adjustable
• Milled Seatbelt bezels, front, back and into trunk; all chromed
• Glove box and glove box door handle, ¼ inch steel tubing welded, tapped and chromed to match grill theme
• Front speaker boxes in foot wells and custom fit sub-woofer box in trunk.
• Trunk lid hinge pins to keep trunk open
• Hidden hood latches and hood popper
• Radiator and power steering fluid reservoir, all hose barbs eliminated and AN aluminum bung lugs fittings weld in place
• Milled chrome accent pieces on Coyote engine cover and valve covers
• Trunk mounted battery box.
• SS gas petal and foot rest petal to match brake and clutch petal
• Saab retractable cup holders in dash
• SS 3/8-inch valve cover vent tubing
• Head lights, blinkers and gas cap body opening have an ¼ inch aluminum ring bonded to the inside of fiberglass body so the lights can use machine thread screws to attach, no metal screws
• Custom fiberglass hood scoop attached on the back side of hood to make it look like a shaker hood scoop
• Front and back hidden body mounts, adjustable up, down in and out. Sorry Kleiner…
• Bent and welded aluminum lower radiator tube
• Brake and clutch reservoir mounted above cylinders. All plumbing uses SS tubing, flexible SS hose attached to brakes and clutch cylinder

Electrical
• InfinityBox Intelligent wiring. Can’t say how nice this was to use - Jay is a great guy to deal with
• Programmed Fob: Security lock, headlight, parking lights, horn, trunk pop, interior LED lights
• Engraved dash switches from AutoLoc
• 4 copper bus bars installed around the frame used for grounding all circuits so no grounds going direct to the steel frame, all copper buss bars and copper wire.
• Used ½ inch PVC electrical tubing, heated and bent going from the back of car to the dash along the transmission tunnel to protect all wiring
• Russ Thompson self-cancelling turn signals
• Alpine stereo system with the following from Focal: 4 speakers, sub wolfer and 500-watt amplifier. Yes, you can hear it!! Bluetooth to my wife’s iPhone or by USB to stream music

Paint & Interior
• Paint done by Jeff Kleiner - Thanks Jeff for your patience on color choice and all the modifications I did
• PPG custom paint color from Randy at the PaintHouse in Texas. We called this color Berry Blue.
• Interior was done my friend Dan Knish at Knish Kustomz. Dan did a great job covering the aluminum two-piece dash I fabricated and all the rest. Porsche carpeting throughout

[DANW]

A few additional photos... I think that about does it! Let me know if you have questions or want to see something differently. Thanks! 9159391594915959159691597

[Itchief]

Excellent job I love the color the dash and all of the attention to detail one of the best I have ever seen

Rick

[GoDadGo]

Unbelievable Job!

Congratulations!

[slpro1207]

Wow. Now that’s a show car. Beautiful.

[Boydster]

Excellent. Beautiful machine. Congrats.

[KDubU]

She’s a beauty, congrats!

[wareaglescott]

Great looking build! Wishing you many happy miles.

[cv2065]

Beautiful Dan! That’s a whole new level. One of the best I’ve ever seen. Congrats!

[Jeff Kleiner]

:cool:

Ah, good to finally see the official unveiling! When Dan and Kay first approached me about doing the car for them 2 years ago he told me that it wasn't going to be like I've seen before. He wasn't lying! It is exceptional. The mods he made are both well thought out and well executed (OK, admittedly they sometimes made me take a different approach and forced me to step back, scratch my head and think outside the box too!) and in fact more than a few of them should be adopted by FFR! It's one of those cars that the more you look the more you see.

We use the phrase "Over the top" a lot and this one truly defines it!

Enjoy it my friends!

Jeff

[Straversi]

Congratulations. That some impressive craftsmanship. Can you share a photo of the waterfall area between the seat backs?
-Steve

[mlewis]

Absolutely Gorgeous. The attention to detail and craftsmanship is exceptional.

Thanks for sharing.

Enjoy driving this beauty (and showing it off).

[riebelt]

Beautifully done! How about a shot of the seats?

[DANW]

Thanks all for the kind words, and thanks again Jeff for all your talent on these cars. I will post more pictures soon “ok when my wife shows me how to post pictures”. This was my first build, I have a lot of respect for the people in FFR and on this forum that have the talent to engineer something they have in there head and make it useable. I am glad Aluminum and card board can be recycled, trying to get all the room in the footwells and trunk I could and making the engine compartment look different was a head scratcher. Ask questions and I will do my best the answer with pictures. Still have a few more things to do, but Minnesota was long winters...
Thanks again
Dan

[CraigS]

A superb car and built w/ only 41 posts here. Wow.

[DANW]

9165291653
Here are pictures between the seats, I made the structure out of 1/2 inch MTF plywood then bonded 3/4 foam that was shaped to look like this. Sorry can’t find pictures showing the process.
Dan

[DANW]

9165491655916569165791658
Here is some pictures fabercating the chrome side vent, the first set I made the three 1/4 inch rods were welded in place, but found out after they came back from chrome they can’t get it to look good so back to the drawing board. I then made the rods removable from the back, they are held in with set screws now. Much easier for the chrome to be buffed out.

[DANW]

91659
The frame of the seats are FFR, if you take the padding off to show the frame there are five 3/4 inch tubes that make up the back of the seat. I cut them all about half way up, then used 1/2 inch solid rod that slips inside the 3/4 inch tubes I cutting and plugged welded in a section to raise the Bach 5 inches. I wanted a higher seat back so the seat belts could come through.

[DANW]

91660916619166291663
I wanted a simple way to keep the trunk lid open, here are the pictures. I fabricated this simple bracket that fastens to the back of the 3/4 inch square tubing just below the fiberglass body. The pin is just a 5/16 aluminum solid rod drilled at the end with a small cable attached to the screws that hold the bracket.

[Bob-STL]

Superb!

[riebelt]

Excellent!

[Joecobr]

Terrific build and brilliant trunk brackets. Will likely borrow the idea!

[2bking]

Beautiful job, well thought out, and lots of attention to detail. Hey, I don't need to say that, it obvious. That would have been a excellent build thread and you have some excellent ideas we all could have plagiarized.

[Jkviper]

Awesome build!! Love the color and high end custom work.

[DANW]

Thanks all, the wife is showing me how to post pictures. I will post more pictures of the build soon. Ask any questions and I will try to give you pictures and details.
Thanks Dan

[CVOBill]

What an amazing build!

[BrewCityCobra]

Wow, unbelievably clean. Amazing work. I love the engine compartment.

[TBull]

That is a truly beautiful build and inspiring for others.

[GT Trooper]

I love what you did with this build! It's incredible!

[Schauby_16]

Love the build. It looks amazing!!!!

[Cobradavid]

Congrats on a beautiful build. Your craftsmanship is outstanding! Love the color, too.

David

[wallace18]

Super Job!

[DANW]

Thanks everyone for the kind words, I will start posting pictures when I can or when my build partner “wife” helps.
Dan

[TBull]

Dan, i went ou and looked at some of your earlier posts. I saw where you had you E-brake originally mounted on the trans tunnel, but now it's obviously not there. Where did you move it to?

[frankb]

Beautiful! Nice work!

[wltrmtty]

Wow, just wow! Congratulations!

[DANW]

TBull, I ditched the parking brake lever and attached an E-Brake that mounts to the top of the transmission tunnel. It has push button switch on the cover plate below the dash on the drivers side. Google it to see how it works. I will try and post pictures if I can find them..

[DANW]

Here are some dash pictures, it is a two piece dash made out of .08 aluminum. The car shows I watch make all this look so easy.

91856 91858 91859 91860 91861 91863 91864 91865

[DANW]

918669186791868

[Vspeeds]

Congratulations. Your fabrication work is incredible.

[WIS89]

Dan-

The car looks incredible, and like many of the other posts here, I really admire your craftsmanship and attention to detail! The engine compartment is awesome! I love the clean look, the color matching, the way everything is tucked away, etc. I also like the interior. So many subtle, yet classic changes; it works perfectly!

You mentioned that you mounted the e-stopp on the trans tunnel. Do you have any pics of how you did that? I didn't think there would be enough room at the top of the tunnel to fit all that hardware. I would appreciate any pics, if you don't mind. I was also hoping you might show some more detail on your hood latching/popper set-up. If you don't mind, I would like to see some more detail on that as well.

Again, terrific job; I really like what you have done! Congratulations on a great build! Thanks in advance for your help with the pics as well.

Regards,

Steve

[DANW]

9190891909
Steve these are the only two pictures I could find on the E-Stop brake, I made a pulley system. I wish I had more pictures but the system works great..

[DANW]

9191091911
Couple more pictures, this was taken with engine and trans out. You can see the E-Brake system mounted to the top of the trans tunnel. You can also see the PVC pipe I painted black to run the wires in.

[DANW]

919149191591916919179191291913
Few more pictures..

[DANW]

919209192191922
Pictures of the power steering fluid plumbing. SS tubing everywhere I could.

[DANW]

9192391924
Coyote gas pedal made to match clutch and brake, or at least I tried to get close.

[DANW]

91925919269192791928
Here is a quick and cheap way to finish off the rear leg of the roll bars that you see when the trunk is open. I add some ABS plastic left after making the wheel well protector for all four wheels. I made a cardboard pattern that fit around the roll bar, transferred the pattern to a piece of ABS plastic, used a heat gun to soften up the plastic, put on a pair of welding cloves and formed it around a pipe the same diameter of the roll bar, let it cool. Cut away some of the back so you can stretch it around the roll bar, after some trimming wrapped it to match..

[Al_C]

Wow. Truly amazing build. Congratulations!

[WIS89]

Dan-

Thank you very much for all the detailed pictures! I didn't think the e-brake would fit there, but it looks like it had plenty of room!

I also like the pvc you used to cover the wiring. I will try and find some of that to protect my wiring as well. Nice idea!

Thank you again for the great pics!!

Regards,

Steve

[DANW]

9198791988
Few more pictures of the E-Brake pulls system, hope this helps

[Mick40]

Wow, the level of detail you're a true craftsman. Thanks for sharing!

Mick

[WIS89]

Dan-

Thanks for the additional pics! You engineered a great system there! I will see if I can copy it a bit for my car. I really appreciate your help with this!

Regards,

Steve

[DANW]

91989919909199191992
Here are a few pictures of the hood latches, if you look at the fipped over body by the hood opening you see two pads. I used 1/4 inch thick metal 3 inches square. Drill and tap two 1/4-20 all thread studs and bonded them to the body with 3M marine fiberglass bondo, this was used to attach the cables plungers mounts I made. Also of you look you see a 1/2 square metal tubing that runs between the two mounts, I used this to mount the popper.

[WIS89]

Thank you again Dan! Some great and useful pictures! You did a really terrific job, and the car looks wonderful.

Some really great ideas you came up with, and the little details make all the difference. Sincere thanks for sharing them!

Regards,

Steve

[DANW]

I keep calling the parking brake E-Brake, it is actually call E-Stopp..

[DANW]

920039200492007
I spent a lot of time making sure the rivet spacing was correct then cover them up with a 3/8 inch aluminum rod milled down and then milled a channel on the back side so the rivets could set inside the channel so it fit flush. After that sent to chromer and installed with 1/4 inch 3m molding tape.
Dan

[DANW]

920159201692017
My powder coated didn’t have a good way to powder coat the rivets. I didn’t want to give up so I made a wood box, made a sheet metal top with a tab hanging out so he good ground it. Drilled holes in the sheet metal for the rivet stems, after that installed DYNA Matt to the back side, that helped hold the rivets in place and the thin foil help ground the rivets when I pushed them from the top side..

[Jazzman]

I absolutely love your creation! Your dash is tasteful and very well executed. The nice touches are everywhere. The engine and engine bay are perfectly dressed. Jeff Kleiner clearly outdid himself on the paint. The entire car is stunning! You can be very proud!

[DANW]

920889208992090
Here are some pictures of the two ground terminals I welded to the frame, the one is just behind the starter the other is in the trunk area. You can see I placed a copper plate over the studs. From the ground terminals different size ground wires go to other smaller terminal blocks behind the radiator, seperate ground to the alternator and starter, a ground to the engine block and heads. I’m sure it is over kill but seems like most electrical problems are ground related..
Thanks Dan

[DANW]

921569215792158921599216092161
Here are some pictures of the brake and clutch reservoir.
Thank

[DANW]

92162921639216492165
Here are some coyote wiring pictures.

[Tarmac]

Super clean and wonderful build. A lot of nice touches through-out the build. Nice job!

Paul

[DANW]

Questions have been asked as to how I cut the holes in my custom dash. Plasma cutters are fairly inexpensive nowadays and it makes a nice cut. Here you go!

https://youtu.be/2d1LwuukgwU

[DANW]

9241792418924199242092421
I wanted to dress up and seal the front and rear fender wells. I used .08 aluminum to make the panels, and then purchased a 4x8 foot piece of ABS plastic that was cut to fit tight in the wells and secured lower front and back. Hope the pictures help explain. I didn’t take pictures of the rear fender wells during the process but will this winter.

[DANW]

9242292423924249242592426924279242892429

[John T]

There is a lot here to like. I like your interior and what you have done with the wheel wells. You've got a great build. Thanks for sharing.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Dan, look at you go... few days ago Kay was having to coach you on posting pictures and now you're putting up vodeos :) Really happy to see you showing all of these details and features so that others can see how outstanding this build truly is!

Jeff

[DANW]

Thanks Jeff, I wish I would have taken more pictures over the years including all the mistakes trying to get it right. My eyes could see what I wanted for changes or modifications but my skills had other ideas. I hope the pictures help explain some of the mods, over the years I sure appreciate all the info on this forum.

[Jetfuel]

I'll join the group and say it...totally amazing
Your eye for detail is just spectacular
Enjoy the miles...you deserve it

[DANW]

92524925259252692527925289252992530
Speakers installation, where the speakers stick out the back I took a dog water dish for a fiberglass mold and made a cover.

[DANW]

9258692587925889258992590
I had a few guys PM me about the dash, found a few more pictures. Made out of .08 Aluminum. Lots of template paper, used a laser level and made 1inch grid lines. Hope this helps..

[DANW]

9259192592
Couple pictures of the seats and center console. You can see how I extended the Factory seat backs and some pictures of the wood center console that I sent to the upholstery..
Dan

[DANW]

92695926969269792698
Few PM’s asking how the Headers can fit on the passenger side footwell since i moved the foot well in front of the 1.5 inch round tube. The notch worked for this..

[Mark Eaton]

I wish I was your neighbor

[mlewis]

Hey Dan,

I'm still reviewing you pic's (with envy).

I am starting the wiring for my Coyote. I really like how clean you set-up is under the hood. I am curious where you mounted the Ford Performance Power Distribution Box as I don't see it on the firewall (typical location).

Thanks in advance.

[cgundermann]

Dan, an absolutely stunning car and your attention to detail and thinking outside the box is surreal!

Congratulations on a unique and finely crafted killer snake.

Chris

[DANW]

Lewis
The power distribution box is mounted in the raised part of the passenger side foot box, it is directly behind the PCM. I don’t have a picture but I mounted it on rails so I could lower it into the passanger foot box if need for maintenance.
Dan

[DANW]

Thanks Chris I had a great time building this. All the members on this sight gave me a lot of inspiration. I had more pictures of the build but lost some of them in the Cloud. I’m trying to post all I come across.
Thanks again Dan

[shark92651]

What an amazing build. I am humbled by what you created under the hood and in the cockpit. You should be winning Best in Show for years to come with this car!

[mlewis]

Lewis
The power distribution box is mounted in the raised part of the passenger side foot box, it is directly behind the PCM. I don’t have a picture but I mounted it on rails so I could lower it into the passanger foot box if need for maintenance.
Dan

Neat idea. I was thinking about the same location but was scratching my head on how to access.

Just curious, where you located the terminal block/fuse ?

Mark

[roadscholar]

WOW, that is a beautiful car.

I am confused by something, I ordered my complete kit MK4 about a year and a half after you and I have #8286. Is that right?

John

[DANW]

93724
John, here is a picture of the build sheet. I am assuming 8352 is the number of the kit..
Dan

[DANW]

Thanks Shark, I follow your forum post, they helped me a bunch. Enjoy the experience..
Dan

[DANW]

Mark
I used the Infinety system to wire the car and engine, I didn’t use any of the wiring harness supplied buy FFR, I sold the Ron Francis wiring harness and started from scratch..
Dan

[Tony_G]

Fantastic job Dan! Can you tell me what hood scoop you used? I need a taller one and this looks like it would work.
Tony

[Boydster]

93724
John, here is a picture of the build sheet. I am assuming 8352 is the number of the kit..
Dan

The number most everyone uses is the last 4 of the FFR serial number... the one stamped on the chassis from the factory. This is not the same as the one on the ID sheet.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Fantastic job Dan! Can you tell me what hood scoop you used? I need a taller one and this looks like it would work.
Tony

Tony,
That is the scoop I mentioned that by all indications is the same one you sent me info on a while back.

Jeff

[Jeff Kleiner]

93724
John, here is a picture of the build sheet. I am assuming 8352 is the number of the kit..
Dan

Dan,
What you see there is the order number. The # everyone refers to is the last 4 digits of the chassis/kit number which will be "F5R100****RD" and found stamped on the chassis tube just above the driver's left knee, on the Factory Five etched number plate as well as on the MSO.

Are you getting in some driving time? Hope so :)

Jeff

[DANW]

Thanks Jeff I learned one more thing from you.:cool:

[DANW]

9386093861938629386393864938659386693867
Guys, while I was in the build process I had my wife do some renderings of my car on the computer for some different stripe ideas. She knows I am a visual guy and have to see it to make up my mind. Here are few pictures, it was fun to see how the stripes change the look of the car. Some of the ideas are a little out there...
Thanks Dan

[Tony_G]

Tony,
That is the scoop I mentioned that by all indications is the same one you sent me info on a while back.

Jeff

Unfortunately the one we talked about is not the right one. I bought it and the shape in the rear is all wrong. It's too rounded in the back. Dan's scoop look nice. 93974

[DANW]

939809398193982939829398393984
Sorry guys I didn’t see the question on the scoop earlier. Go to Shellvalley.com part number C7070HSS. The scoop come with angled front corners, I used weaves fiberglass and a tin form to fill in the corner.. hope this helps
Dan

[Tony_G]

939809398193982939829398393984
Sorry guys I didn’t see the question on the scoop earlier. Go to Shellvalley.com part number C7070HSS. The scoop come with angled front corners, I used weaves fiberglass and a tin form to fill in the corner.. hope this helps
Dan

Thanks Dan! I actually bought that scoop too. For some reason mine is white not black. I cut the angles at the front off. Kind of looks not long enough that way. May have to steal your Mod and do it over.

Thanks again!

[DANW]

I would agree, it would look a little stubby if you cut it back that far..
Dan

[DANW]

108448108447
Hello
It was a long winter in Minnesota, here are two pictures of some metal trim I made for the interior, trunk and body. One picture before chrome the next is after getting it back from chrome. I will post more pictures when I start putting it back together.
Dan

[DANW]

108451108452108453
I decided to color sand my Cobra, using the 3M Trizact system, start with 1500 grit then 2000, 3000 last 5000 grit with a 6 inch orbital sander. Then 3M Perfect-it 1,2,3 compound buffing and polish. It is now a flat blue, fun and scary at the same time:cool:

[DANW]

108493108494108495
Needed to finish covering my Amp in the trunk, made out of 1/2 inch MDF, To make it bend you use a table saw and cut almost all the way through, bend it to shape and fill with body filler. More pictures coming.
Dan

[DANW]

108496108497108498
To make the cooling mesh panel I made a male and female jig, sandwiched a piece of flat mesh between the jig jacked up my pickup tire placed the jig under the tire and let the jack down.

[DANW]

108499108500
Made some chrome accents, milled out a circle to show the name of the Amp and covered the Amp with left over seat material.
Dan

[SSNK4US]

Dan every time I turn around you do something that just makes my jaw drop.... your a true inspiration.....

Kurt

[Straversi]

Very cool.
-Steve

[Mark Eaton]

wow

[DANW]

108640108635108636108637108638108639

I wanted to come up with a different and cleaner look for the roll bar bezels. I used .20 aluminum to mill out the bezels, the four in the front were fairly ease the two in the back took some thought. I tapped the back of the bezels using an 8-32 tap, careful not to drill through the front. Mounted them with some nylon lock nuts.
Dan

[DANW]

108641108642108643108644108645108646108647108648
The center section between my seats seem to be missing something, I shaped a piece of aluminum, milled some brass rod in half “found out it is less expensive to use brass to be chromed than aluminum, the chromer said it is less steps” used my welders cylinder and bent then brass to match the shaped aluminum, used the perforated material left over from the seats and wrapped it.
Dan

[Jeff Kleiner]

You are just going farther and farther over the top Dan! I've been meaning to call the past couple of weeks and will try to do so today.

Jeff

[Boydster]

This car is beyond amazing. Feels inadequate to say so, but nice, very nice work.

[DANW]

108689108690

I wanted to change the square bezel trim ring around the windshield support leg and make the ends round to match the roll bar bezels, this is how it turned out..
Dan

[DANW]

108843108844108845108848108849108850108851108852
Wanted to finish of the trunk so this is what I did. The inside trunk liner is made from ABS plastic, same material I lined my wheel wells with. I cut out a cardboard pattern then cut the ABS to match the template. I used a heat gun to warm up the ABS to fit the trunk, covered it in 1/4 inch foam and wrapped it to match. I then wanted to dress up where the hinges meet the trunk lid. I used molding clay and sculptured the clay to how I wanted it to look. I then used fiberglass cloth and wrapped it around the clay to make a mold. Little body work and wrapped it to match the interior.
Thanks for looking
Dan

[DANW]

108906108907108908108909

Show and go removable mud flaps. After a 2,500 miles and seeing the road rash on the front of my side pipes and the paint chips in front of the rear wheel I decided to come up with a way to do a quick on quick off mud flap. I made a bracket behind the ABS wheel well protector and then installed 3 strong magnets. Looks fairly simple but it was the S**ts to get right.
Thanks Dan

[Ponymedic]

As many others have said amazing job. They say imitation is highest form of flattery. I have been looking for dash ideas and I love yours I would love to hear more about the dash build such as how did you attach? Do you have any templates ? And where did you find those cupholders anything you could share would be great

[DANW]

109437109438
Got the car door panels done the day before taking it to Ohio, it was a great time getting to know some of you on the forum.
Dan

[DANW]

109444
Dave Smith picking on Kleiner at the FF5 display in London..

[DANW]

109645109646109647
Last weekend wheel in Columbus Cobra show I had a friend set me up with a tuner, is company is called Crucial Performance Eric is the guys name. Here is the sheet for my gen one coyote. 400.32 HP and 379 Torque. I did have JMS send me a canned tune when I got it running a few years ago, Eric was very surprised how good the tune was without being on a Dyno, on the canned tune it made 378 HP and 363 torque.
Thanks Dan

[DANW]

109993109994
I add a few guys PM me for a better pictures of the panel under the dash and picture with the door open.. Hope this helps.
Dan

[DANW]

111840111841
At the Ohio show someone mentioned it would be a nice added touch to replace the plastic trim ring around the radio with one to match the vents and instruments. I carved out some 1/4 inch aluminum, sanded and buffed. I used magnets on each side to hold in place. Thanks for looking. Also thoughts and prayers go out to the families of the killed and injured in Ohio and Texas this weekend. GOD sped to all.
Dan

[Kmcallahan]

Awesome job, the results are inspirational.

[DANW]

140932 140935

Hello all, I hope you are all doing well in these crazy times. I had member ask about what I did under the floor boards of my car so i attached pictures. I used 1/8 inch aluminum cut and bent to go between the round frame and the outside square tubing, it goes from front to back. Also was a nice way to rivet the vertical front “Fire Wall” section to the floor. Gave more depth in the floor boards for my feet. All attached with 1/4 20 rivnuts. The first picture is looking from the back to the front, second picture is looking from behind the front tire to the rear of the car.
Thanks Dan

[Blitzboy54]

Stunning!

Incredible job making it so unique

[DANW]

I always wanted to try my hand at fabricating sheet metal, the TV shows make it look easy. I fabricated an engine cover and valve covers for my Coyote to change up the look. After making a few cardboard cut outs to get a design i made a wood buck and started bending 20 gauge cold rolled steel. My goal was to make it attached to the factory rubber mounts so it can be taken on and off with easy. I really enjoyed the stitch welding, controlling the heat so the metal didn’t warp takes patience. I will send pictures of the process. Thankfully Jeff Kleiner saved me some paint to match, I also wanted to try my hand at painting, I practiced on some left over metal first then the covers, painting is a talent, now i know the time and energy it takes to paint theses cars, I don’t think Jeff charges enough after the hours it took me to do this. I will be at the cobra show next week in Ohio, looking forward to see everyone there. The sad part is i think i ran out of new ideas for this build, I have enjoyed the build. I have been thinking about doing another build, seems like the build for me is as fun as driving these cool cars. My wife is concerned I have completed this dream car and I need to build another one, I must be easier to live with when i have a project. I am thinking hard about selling this build and starting a new one, not sure what the market is on these cars or the best way to sell it. Anyways i will down load pictures have the engine cover build.
Thanks Dan
149653149654

[DANW]

149655149656149657

[DANW]

149658149659149660

[DANW]

149661149662149663

[DANW]

149664149665149666

[DANW]

149667149668149669

[DANW]

149670149671149672

[DANW]

149673149674149675

[DANW]

149676149677149678

[DANW]

149679149680149681
I used 3/8 brass rod and had them chromed.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Turned out great Dan! Your creativity never fails to impress :cool:

See you in a few days!

Jeff

[Straversi]

Nice job. Thanks for showing all of the work that went into it. The TV shows make it look too easy. They get to edit a week long project into a 2 minute segment.
-Steve

[DANW]

Thanks Jeff and Steve, building these cars is as much fun as driving them maybe more? Keep pushing yourself to make your car different and learn something new along the way. The FFR built manual is there to make a nice safe car, use your imagination to make it different.
Dan