torque wrench recommendation

[PeteMeindl]

Hi guys,
Quick tool advice question: I'm building up the tool collection to get ready for arrival of our car in a couple weeks. On Harbor Freight, I see a Pittsburgh Torque Wrench is only $20 - less than 25% of what a Husky torque wrench costs. Are people happy with the quality of the pittsburgh torque wrenches? It almost seems like too good a deal to be true so i just wanted to check with you all. Also, from reading the build manual, it looks like we probably need two different torque wrenches, one for relatively low torque and one for high torque - do people generally get 2?
Thanks a lot for you advice!
Pete

[slpro1207]

I have bought a lot of tools from HF that has worked out just fine. I don’t know that I would trust anything that is calibrated though. I have 2 torque wrenchs. One that goes to 100lbs and a larger one for 250lbs. Both Craftmans.
Did not want to take chances of anything loosening at go fast time.

[NAZ]

If it doesn't come with a calibration cert showing the error over its range how do you know how accurate it is? All good quality torque wrenches can be had with calibration certs. And to maintain that accuracy it has to be calibrated on a reasonable frequency based on use.

Yes, top of the line precision tools cost more but this is one of those areas that you get what you pay for. With tools the rule is "buy cheap = buy twice" but with a precision measuring tool unless you have a calibration gauge how do you know the reading it gives you is accurate? And if it's not accurate then what purpose does it serve?

[Mark Eaton]

Pay the extra money for the Husky. I have two of them and they are high quality. And you will need a torque wrench in inch-lbs if you are using Wilwood brakes and I think for something else but I can't remember what. Also, your front spindle Hub Nuts need to be torqued to 250 ft-lbs. you might check your local Napa store because they might be able to loan you those tools.

[cv2065]

I've got a 3/8" drive Harbor Freight and a 1/2" drive Kobalt (Lowes brand of Husky). Can't afford a Snap On. Kobalt is a little better made (it seems) than the HF but the torque readings are harder to see as they are marked into the chrome. I've compared both to the same torque number and they are pretty much the same, so I'd have to give the HF a thumbs up for accuracy.

[Ray]

I have a 1/4" and 3/8" Harbor Freight and a 1/2" Snap-On. The HF units are certainly accurate enough for car building. The only reason I have the Snap-On unit was for the ball joints.

I think the HF ones will be fine.

Ray

[edwardb]

I have a couple of the H-F torque wrenches. I suspect they're OK. But to be honest I don't use them as often as the Brownline Metal Works digital one I bought several years ago. Around $100 as I recall. ACDelco makes a similar one for about the same price. Required? I don't know. But appreciate how the digital works with direct readout, light warnings, etc. A little better than the sometimes subtle "click" of the H-F wrenches. You'll need a wrench that goes as high as 250 ft-lbs for a couple things on the build. But many just use the rent a tool program at their local parts store since that high range is rarely needed.

Something else that's a little interesting. There are a number of companies offering a digital torque adapter, similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031QPJZG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Home Depot has one. H-F has one. Etc. Has the ability to use a standard ratchet or breaker bar and get a torque reading. But also has the ability to be a poor man's calibration tool. I checked the H-F clickers out using this tool and they were pretty close. FWIW. Yea, I know only as accurate as that device which also isn't calibrated. But digital stuff is surprisingly accurate.

[Clover]

I use some H-F tools but I tossed my 3/8th H-F torque wrench in the trash after I broke a bolt with it. It was a small aluminum bolt with a rating that was pretty low in the range of the torque wrench. I remember thinking that it seemed like I was putting on more pressure then I thought would be needed but it had not clicked. Then the bolt broke and the tool went in the trash. I felt that it was a bit inconsistent before. Maybe I just got a bad unit but on the lower end of the range, mine did not seem to work at all.

I got another off of Amazon that had good ratings. I think it was Mountain, but I don't remember and have tossed the case. It seems to work very well for me the past couple of years. What I really want is a Snap-On Digital torque wrench but even used they seem to be around $300. They can do angle and have lights on the side that light up as you get close to your angle or torque rating. Super nice but hard to justify that much for me. Maybe I should look up edwardb's recommendation. Digital is the way to go in my opinion but they used to be very expensive. It looks like now there are some more reasonably priced options available.

[wareaglescott]

I like tools that have lifetime exchange warranties.

Had a husky I used for the Cobra build. It ended up breaking. I probably owned it for 10 years and got plenty of use out of it. Went up to HD and traded it in for a new one no questions asked. That is always a nice option to have.

[FlyingCobra]

I've had a couple of H-F torque wrenches (3/8" and 1/2") that I've had for probably 5 years and have used on a number of automotive items. I've never had anything come loose or overtighten and break when using them.

I wouldn't overthink it.

[scottiec]

Keep in mind, you will be unable to get a torque wrench on a good amount of bolts. I use a HF, but would recommend buying a quality one

[Papa]

I have the AC Delco that Paul mentioned. It's great for the low torque bolts like on the Wilwoods. I also have a Craftsman and another off-brand for mid range stuff up to 150 pounds and finally, a Neiko monster 3/4" 39" long beast that can go up to 300 pounds. Believe it or not, the mid range no-name is the one that gets the most use (mostly lug nuts). I don't really like the Craftsman that I bought to replace the no-name piece. Oh, for what it's worth the conversion from ft pounds to inch pounds is simple; one ft pound = 12 inch pounds. So, to do the 150 inch pound Willwood hat bolts, you need 12.5 ft pounds.

[dhuff]

This one has a good range and is long enough to make 250 ft-lb possible.

TEKTON 24340 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb./33.9-338.9 Nm)

TEKTON 24340 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb./33.9-338.9 Nm)

[PeteMeindl]

Thanks a lot for all the good advice, guys! I really appreciate it.

Rear end arrived today so we now have the first actual part of the car!

[Gumball]

I prefer old tools and for torque wrenches I have a couple of older Snap-On ones that are awesome. Smaller 3/8 drive goes to 100 ft. lbs. and larger 1/2" drive to 250 ft. lbs. Nice thing about Snap-On is you can have them calibrated at anytime, as they still support their older stuff.

Look on-line (craigslist or e-bay are great sources) and find a decent one with a recent certification - you can save a ton of dough and get a really high-quality tool that will last forever.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Agree with NAZ have 4 Craftsmen. 3/8th in in lbs, 3/8 in ft lbs, 1/2 in ft lbs to 120 ft lbs & 1/2 to 300 ft lbs IIRC. Reason for the spread in torque wrenches is accuracy is rated as a % of the scale.

Mine are basic click on torque. Big thing to remember with these wrenches is to release the setting when you are done to keep calibration. Would not cheap out especially when connecting aluminum parts. Very easy to strip the threads with an over torque.

Compared to the money you will put into the build good tools are chump change & you will always have the tool afterwards.