P100DHG Build Questions

[P100DHG]

Well I haven't made if far and I'm already stuck. Here is my configuration.

Daytona Coupe Kit $21,900.00
60362 Powder Coated Chassis $499.00
60359 Platnium Gauges $0.00
13083 Tansmission Mount Package 351W $0.00
16445 Ceramic Coated Headers $850.00
60175 driveshaft $0.00
12070 Body with cutouts $149.00
15478 Vintage Low Back Vinyl $0.00
16138 Manual Vs Power steering rack $199.00
12066 Tublar Front lower control arm $0.00
60737 IRS Kit $2,499.00
12126 Rear End $1,400.00
60377 A/C - Heater Defroster $1,550.00
60364 Interior precut carpet $275.00
60371 Side Windows $549.00
15368 Front Willwood Brakes $1,415.00
15986 Rear Wilwood Brakes $1,715.00
16320 Replica Wheels & Tires $2,327.00
60372 Aero Vents $125.00
16116 Front Sway bar $240.00
15998 rear sway bar $240.00


Okay so here is my sticking point

I want to put in a 351W 427 Roush SR with an EFI kit. Roush says it can all be done and Mark sent me my price sheet they will do it for me and drop ship me my fully custom engine turn key ready, with clutch mounted, bell housing and TKO 600 transmission. 510 hp of raw power. Mark from Roush who does this all day was really excited about the configuration. Anyway FFR is like eeeeeehhhhh.... Might not fit, make sure it has a dual plane intake. So Mark from Roush is like no problem, even better plus your EFI kit will lower the air cleaner and you'll be good to go. These pit in Superperformance cars all day lone. So.... I go to order my kit and FFR today says,"eeeeehhhhh might not fit". Everything mentioned above shipped is $22,000. My concern is if my $22,000 drive package doesn't fit I'm going to lose my mind... I asked FFR for dimensions they said they couldn't provide any... Any thoughts?

[Ray]

I see that you are up in the San Francisco Bay area. There is a great painter/body man in Yuba/Sutter---Ken Pike aka "StreetRod Painter. If your engine is too tall, he'd be able to put a bubble in the hood to accommodate the height. And, it would look KILLER!

Did FFR say the engine would be too tall, too wide or? There are ways to make things fit....

Ray

[P100DHG]

I'm actually down in the LA area, Burbank to be specific. I don't want to modify the body. I'd rather just get the engine right. A good paint recommendation would be valuable though. I do have a car trailer I could bring it up north if need be. Thanks!

[Ray]

Oh, in that case you’ll probably want Jeff “Batman” Miller in Temecula.

What’s the trouble with the engine? Tall/wide?

Ray

[Erik W. Treves]

If you are willing to spend the money on the engine I would get it...worst case you end up changing either the air leaner or the intake manifold...or like others said a "slight" mod to the hood while you are in body work...

[P100DHG]

It might be too tall. Does anyone have the dimensions from the mount to the top of the hood. The concern is will the air cleaner clear. Roush puts on a fairly low profile air cleaner.

[P100DHG]

Okay here is another question:

Where should I expect my shift to sit if I use a TKO600? Any pictures someone can post?

[stack]

switch to stack injection. If the coyote fits i think the 351 has to fit

stack

[turbonut48]

Mine has a 351 based 418. I also have Edelbrock Efi. It looks like a carb.
Its tall. My builder put a hood bump on mine with a rear facing opening. I like it.
Tom H

[P100DHG]

I’ve changed my build... I am going to a coyote. Here is my question. Will the stock oil pan work in a coupe build? I found a mustang donor engine gen 2. What needs to be changed if anything to make it work?

[Jazzman]

I’ve changed my build... I am going to a coyote. Here is my question. Will the stock oil pan work in a coupe build? I found a mustang donor engine gen 2. What needs to be changed if anything to make it work?

You will need a low profile oil pan. Moroso has a nice one #20570. You will also need the correct oil pickup for the Coyote, #24570. Summit, Jegs, occasionally even Amazon all carry them.

[P100DHG]

Hydronic clutch vs cable. What the difference? Looks like the kit comes with a cable but from my understanding cables stretch will need to be adjusted etc. someone help me out here.

[edwardb]

Hydronic clutch vs cable. What the difference? Looks like the kit comes with a cable but from my understanding cables stretch will need to be adjusted etc. someone help me out here.

The Wilwood pedal box is designed for a hydraulic clutch. The kit includes a Factory Five designed and fabricated modification that converts it to a cable drive setup. Initial design wasn't great, but this one now around for several years works fine. If you can get a smooth route to the clutch arm under the car and stay away from heat (#1 killer of clutch cables) the cable setup works fine. Some question about the quality of the kit provided clutch cable. A genuine Ford or Ford Performance replacement is recommended. With the right cable and setup, cable stretch isn't typically an issue. Clutches need to be adjusted occasionally as the clutch wears. But that's normal maintenance.

Going hydraulic is an easy change because of the already mentioned Wilwood pedal box. Many install a kit from Mike Forte that uses an external slave cylinder pushing on the stock clutch arm. I have a couple times. He has mounts for various transmissions. It works well and (obviously) deletes the clutch cable, cable routing, etc. I "think" it's a little smoother and perhaps less effort. But to be honest I haven't tried both on the same build to get a true before and after test. Pedal effort is also a function of which clutch you use, regardless of cable or hydraulic. Not to go too far off topic, but for my Coupe build I'm trying a Tilton HRB (Hydraulic Release Bearing). Still the same master cylinder in the footbox, but then directly to the release bearing against the clutch. Pretty common in DD's, including the current Mustang. Not as common in our builds. Some concerns about reliability and how much has to be torn down in case of an issue. But I'm going for it. With fewer parts, easier installation plus I'm hoping to see a real reduction in pedal effort. Plus it's a bit cheaper. We'll see.

[P100DHG]

okay here is another one.

One of the things I like the least about this car is the interior. I am going to put my own spin on it. At first I planned on doing the carpet kit but now I am thinking about no carpet.... YIKES! I am thinking button down/ snap down floor mats. I plan to powder coat all the panels silver, including the dash and doing a brown leather interior. Should compliment the blue car. One concern I am worried about is sound and heat insulation. Since I want raw, painted panels this means dynamat is out. I am looking at a product called Lizard Skin. It appears this is applied to the interior of the car. I need to apply it to the underside of each panel. The prep work is going to be daunting. Following their directions it looks like I put down the sound then the heat product. Any thoughts on that outside facing application?

Also would you powder coat before drilling holes for rivets or powder coating after all the holes are drilled (this is what I am thinking)?

[edwardb]

okay here is another one.

One of the things I like the least about this car is the interior. I am going to put my own spin on it. At first I planned on doing the carpet kit but now I am thinking about no carpet.... YIKES! I am thinking button down/ snap down floor mats. I plan to powder coat all the panels silver, including the dash and doing a brown leather interior. Should compliment the blue car. One concern I am worried about is sound and heat insulation. Since I want raw, painted panels this means dynamat is out. I am looking at a product called Lizard Skin. It appears this is applied to the interior of the car. I need to apply it to the underside of each panel. The prep work is going to be daunting. Following their directions it looks like I put down the sound then the heat product. Any thoughts on that outside facing application?

Also would you powder coat before drilling holes for rivets or powder coating after all the holes are drilled (this is what I am thinking)?

Easy one first. I think you'll find it mostly unanimous from all builders, including me, to drill the panels and chassis first. Then finish the panels using your intended method (powder coat or whatever), then bond and rivet in place.

Regarding Lizard Skin, I'm very familiar with it. I've used it on all my builds. Coincidentally, I've spent the last couple days off and on masking and prepping my Coupe build for Lizard Skin spray. Planning to do the sound spray tomorrow and the heat spray the next day. My opinion, and I'm certain you'll find others that don't agree including Lizard Skin's website, is that Lizard Skin is best applied on inside surfaces. And typically under interior materials like carpet. That's how I've always used it, and based on my experience and observation, is how it's best used. It's a water based product, and while surprisingly durable, it's not rock hard like a solvent or catalyzed type product. Plus it's a little rough and porous. IMO would be hard to keep clean and easy to damage. But that's just my opinion, so take it for that. They do sell a top coat (https://www.lizardskin.com/topcoat.html) that I've used. It's OK and certainly better than leaving the Lizard Skin unfinished. But it's basically a thin and shiny version of many spray-on undercoats.

[P100DHG]

Let’s talk tools.

Do I need a brake line bender? how about a double flare tool? Anyone recommend certain ones or have a list of tools that are must haves?

[edwardb]

Let’s talk tools.

Do I need a brake line bender? how about a double flare tool? Anyone recommend certain ones or have a list of tools that are must haves?

Since no one else responded (tried to give you a break...) I'll give my two cents worth. Brake lines depend on your build plan. The kit comes with multiple sections of steel brake lines and several unions. The brake lines bend easily by hand, curves can be bent around sockets, that sort of thing. It you're not super picky about routing, a little extra here and there, etc. you can do the whole job using the supplied tubing and without any new flares. At the other end of the spectrum would be rigid stainless, few/no unions, etc. Then you need bending tools, a decent flaring tool like this one https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html, etc. Lots of guys like NiCopp brake line if you want to make your own and don't want to deal with something like stainless. Easy to flare with less elaborate flaring tools. But I'm still a big fan of the Eastwood tool. Ditto the same discussion for fuel lines. Similar decisions to make there, once you settle on the right size for your build. The kit comes with 5/16-inch supply and 1/4-inch return (if needed).

There's a tool list in the build manual. How much more than that you might need again depends on you, e.g. what if any mods you do, your personal build choices, etc.

[slpro1207]

If you decide to go the Eastwood flaring tool, I have one you can borrow. We aren’t to far apart.

[P100DHG]

Thank you so much!!! We are pretty close and it would be great to meet, I’ll keep it in mind thank you! I could probably bring the lines cut to length and do the final flares at your place if needed. I appreciate it!

[slpro1207]

No worries. I would come your way. Would love to see your build. Thinking my next might be a 65 coupe.

[P100DHG]

Sounds good. Will send you a PM with my info

[Rick1916]

Gosh, sorry you decided to go the Coyote route. But I completely understand your decision. Guess I just love the old school looks of pushrod motors. However for what’s it worth my 427 Dart motor based on 351w architecture shipped from Fordstrokers today. I’ve got a Hilborn 8 stack efi system sitting on the bench that I’m mounting to it. I had the Hilborn system mounted on a 408 stroked 351w in my roadster and it looked and ran incredibly well. The new motor and Hilborn system is going one way or another into my Gen 3 Coupe which is moving along quite nicely. We test fit a 5.0 SBF awhile back in the coupe and there appeared to be lots of room for the 351w and Hilborn. I did encounter a minor problem in the roadster however. While lots of guys seem happy running velocity stacks only, or perhaps stacks with the little mesh screens, I just couldnt see taking the risk of sucking small rocks into my $20k motor. So I had custom K&N cone filters made. Doesn’t look quite as sexy but seemed like a good compromise.

So for anyone considering this combo, let me know if you want to see some photos. Should have something to report in a couple of weeks.

[P100DHG]

So I was well underway on my acquisition of seats until my brother through giant wrench into my plans. From Edwardb's thread I could tell that the Corbeau FX1 Pro seats would fit. I maybe answering my own question here and the answer maybe just to wait till I get my car but why not put it to the community. The Corbeau FX1 Pro seats are not FIA certified. One of the components behind FIA certification if that the fabric be fire retardant. Since I am reupholstering them that rating is lost however the other aspect is the crash testing those seats are put through. Now I would hate to crash my car but someone crashing into me is just something I can't avoid in many cases and my brothers point is that a car without modern safety systems like airbags should at minimum have an FIA rated seat for crash protection. This brings me to the Sparco EVO II or the Braum Falcon seat (I would prefer its cheaper but they have limited quantities). The price is so much higher for an FIA rated seat and really I don't want to spend that much but I also don't want to be a cripple. Does anyone have the ability to carefully measure out the seating area. Factory five said it has so many angles that I should wait till I get the car, order the seats and see if they fit... That seems logical but now instead of making steady progress toward acquiring the necessary items for my car before it gets here, I have to postpone this item which isn't the end of the world by any means. Anyway, thoughts anyone? Measurements maybe (I know this is a lot of ask)?

[edwardb]

I agree with the advice you received from Factory Five. There are multiple complex angles and measurements in the cockpit seating area including the roll bar cage which also comes into play. It would be nearly impossible to measure and reconstruct in a way that would help you decide about seat fitment. The Corbeau Sportline Evolution X seats I chose just barely fit. In fact they don't go all the way to the back of the cockpit wall like some others might. But for my height (5'-10") the space available is fine. You could use the dimensions Corbeau has on their website to compare to other seats. Maybe you've already done that. But you'll be able to check/measure the available space immediately upon receiving your kit. The body and sheet metal are already installed for shipping. You will have plenty of time to measure, decide, and order seats and not hold up your build.

[Straversi]

So for anyone considering this combo, let me know if you want to see some photos. Should have something to report in a couple of weeks.

Yes, please. Post away. Love to see photos of those stacks. Start a separate thread since the original poster has chosen the Coyote.
-Steve

[P100DHG]

I would like to see this combo as well! Sounds awesome. But here is the article I read about them

https://jalopnik.com/what-are-velocity-stacks-and-why-you-want-them-on-your-1792235442

Counter argument

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=400/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd400.htm

[P100DHG]

Race height or street height?

After inventory it’s pretth much the first decision to make.

I plan to track the car but I would like to drive over a speed bump without bottoming out

[P100DHG]

I spoke to Dan at factory five and asked him if thenkit came with clecos answer was no. Then I was looking at parts on breeze automotive. Does it come with rivets? What else do I need to get in preparation?

[edwardb]

No clecos, as Dan said. Yes, the kit comes with rivets. An assortment of 1/8 and 3/16 inch. Majority of the rivets in the build are 1/8 inch. They're all plain aluminum. Fine for general use. Some end up buying color rivets to match or contrast with the panels. If you don't have them already, you'll want to get some drill bits for riveting. #30 are slightly oversize for the 1/8 inch rivets, #10 for the 3/16 inch rivets. You'll likely break or dull some as you go. Experiences and opinions vary on how many to buy. I've gone through 5-6 of the smaller and maybe 1-2 of the larger for my builds.

[P100DHG]

Okay good to know because drill bits were on my amazon hit list. I was going to go straight 1/8 and 3/16 but slightly over sized is a good idea

Merry Christmas thanks as always Paul

[P100DHG]

With regard to installing and drilling the panels

Whats the trick to getting the holes drilled, centered and evenly spaced along the tubing? In my head I can only imagine buying a dozen yard sticks, cutting them to various sizes, using it as a straight edge and marking out the spaces or making a jig from them....

I am thinking about what would make this easiest. steady and accurate is the name of the game. I don't mind measuring it out but maybe someone has come up with a good trick or jig

[edwardb]

With regard to installing and drilling the panels

Whats the trick to getting the holes drilled, centered and evenly spaced along the tubing? In my head I can only imagine buying a dozen yard sticks, cutting them to various sizes, using it as a straight edge and marking out the spaces or making a jig from them....

I am thinking about what would make this easiest. steady and accurate is the name of the game. I don't mind measuring it out but maybe someone has come up with a good trick or jig

With the part in position, trace around the frame locations, overlaps, whatever on the back side of the piece. That gives you the possible locations for rivets. Then on a centerline between the lines, mark for the rivet locations. The kit comes with a spacing tool. Like a ruler with a bunch of holes. FF recommends 3-inch spacing when into frame members. 2-inch spacing for panel-to-panel. I follow those guidelines (mostly...) adjusting where needed. Pay close attention that locations will be accessible for drilling and riveting. Once the holes are drilled in the sheet metal, then put it back into position and drill through into the frame or overlapping piece. Adding clecos as you drill. A bunch of the rivets don't show once your done so it's not as critical (e.g. cockpit floor) but a bunch do. Like all the exposed sheet metal in the engine compartment. Here being neat, even, and straight pays off IMO. But it's not that hard.

There are other methods beyond the FF spacing tool. Calculator and ruler work when you want to do something different than 2 or 3 inch spacing. I do that occasionally. I personally haven't used it, but I've seen guys post about a tool like this one: https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/rivet-fan-spacing-tool/. I've also seen where guys have put marks on a piece of elastic and then use as a guide, stretching as needed to get the holes evenly spaced. Haven't tried that either.

[P100DHG]

With the part in position, trace around the frame locations, overlaps, whatever on the back side of the piece. That gives you the possible locations for rivets. Then on a centerline between the lines, mark for the rivet locations. The kit comes with a spacing tool. Like a ruler with a bunch of holes. FF recommends 3-inch spacing when into frame members. 2-inch spacing for panel-to-panel. I follow those guidelines (mostly...) adjusting where needed. Pay close attention that locations will be accessible for drilling and riveting. Once the holes are drilled in the sheet metal, then put it back into position and drill through into the frame or overlapping piece. Adding clecos as you drill. A bunch of the rivets don't show once your done so it's not as critical (e.g. cockpit floor) but a bunch do. Like all the exposed sheet metal in the engine compartment. Here being neat, even, and straight pays off IMO. But it's not that hard.

There are other methods beyond the FF spacing tool. Calculator and ruler work when you want to do something different than 2 or 3 inch spacing. I do that occasionally. I personally haven't used it, but I've seen guys post about a tool like this one: https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/rivet-fan-spacing-tool/. I've also seen where guys have put marks on a piece of elastic and then use as a guide, stretching as needed to get the holes evenly spaced. Haven't tried that either.

That rivet fan tool is just amazing. Great advice. I can visualize it. One less thing to think about! Thank you Paul!

[P100DHG]

I need to build something similar to Jeff's rolling car cart does anyone know what the dimensions are for the coupe's chassis?

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1857.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

I need to build something similar to Jeff's rolling car cart does anyone know what the dimensions are for the coupe's chassis?

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1857.jpg

I actually have a Gen3 Coupe chassis sitting on it right now. The dolly measures 60" long and 38" wide and needed no modifications to accommodate the Coupe chassis.

Jeff

[P100DHG]

I actually have a Gen3 Coupe chassis sitting on it right now. The dolly measures 60" long and 38" wide and needed no modifications to accommodate the Coupe chassis.

Jeff

what is the measurement from center to center of the two indentations where the frame sits?

Thanks Jeff for the help


Another question for the community.

The supplied brake reservoir I believe is a single reservoir and uses a T between the 2 master cylinders. Am I safer buying a dual reservoir such as this? Is my conclusion correct that this would make the front and rear brake systems truly independent of one another or am I missing something?

https://www.polyperformance.com/cnc-remote-reservior-kits-cnc-1482?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=CNC-1482&gclid=Cj0KCQiA05zhBRCMARIsACKDWjeYIfqqHjsZvtTjc9vA ecPUgKpX1ZpIwr8Yvb_bwnMMAul1AHKoWFIaAmRNEALw_wcB

[Jeff Kleiner]

what is the measurement from center to center of the two indentations where the frame sits?

Thanks Jeff for the help


Another question for the community.

The supplied brake reservoir I believe is a single reservoir and uses a T between the 2 master cylinders. Am I safer buying a dual reservoir such as this? Is my conclusion correct that this would make the front and rear brake systems truly independent of one another or am I missing something?

https://www.polyperformance.com/cnc-remote-reservior-kits-cnc-1482?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=CNC-1482&gclid=Cj0KCQiA05zhBRCMARIsACKDWjeYIfqqHjsZvtTjc9vA ecPUgKpX1ZpIwr8Yvb_bwnMMAul1AHKoWFIaAmRNEALw_wcB

The half round indentations in the chassis dolly are for the 4" round tubes used on the roadster and previous generation Coupes and don't come into play with the flat bottom Gen3. The chassis members simply sit on the rubber lined flat portions of the dolly and straddle the cutouts.

RE: Single vs. double brake reservoir. Jim Schenck says that the capacity of the single is sufficient to allow for multiple (3?, 4?, maybe more?) brake applications even if one end was completely blown out. Some guys feel better changing to true dual separate reservoirs like the CNC you linked.

Jeff

[P100DHG]

Do the hubs need to be greased before placing them on the spindles? I don't see anything about that in the directions I am referencing pages 75-80 in the manual for front spindle to hub attachment and 135 for rear hub

[Sigurd]

Do the hubs need to be greased before placing them on the spindles? I don't see anything about that in the directions I am referencing pages 75-80 in the manual for front spindle to hub attachment and 135 for rear hub

No. A light cover to prevent rust might be OK but not for lubrication.

[edwardb]

The bearings for both the front spindles hubs and the IRS hubs are lifetime factory lubed. All are installed as delivered out of the box.

[P100DHG]

Manual says torque the upper ball joint to 75lbs. Problem is I can’t get my torque wrench up in there. I’m using a 1/2” torque wrench from harbor freight any suggestions?

102260

I’ll cover it more in my build thread but you can see I torqued the bottom one to 95lbs and marked the nut so I know it’s been torqued and the spec.

[edwardb]

I wouldn't get too worried about it. Won't be the only nut you have to assemble with a torque rating and a torque wrench won't fit. Since you did the other one, you have a pretty good idea what 95 ft-lbs feels like. Back off a little, align the castle nut with the hole, and lock it down. An alternative would be to put a crows foot on the torque wrench. If put at 90 degrees (e.g. not adding length to the lever) it measures the same. There are formulas for other angles. But that's where I go back to my first suggestion. :rolleyes:

[Clover]

My torque wrench would not fit either. Like edwarb, I just snugged it up to my best guess at 75 and got the castle nut and hole aligned and called it good. With the cotter pin in there, it won't back off and I figured I would be fine. I'll probably check it after 500 miles or so to make sure it is still snug.

[P100DHG]

Got it thanks! Yeah 95lbs nearly broke my arm in that position holding the spindle with a wrench on one side and my foot on the other. I was contortionist!

[P100DHG]

Okay this upper ball joint is just screwing with me. The castle nut needs a spacer to line up with the cotter pin. What do we think about this? Right now i installed it without a spacer. I’d rather redo it than do it wrong. Manual says nothings about a spacer but then I’ve learned here that the manual isn’t always accurate.

102297

[Jeff Kleiner]

Use a hardened washer between the spindle and nut.

Jeff

[edwardb]

Use a hardened washer between the spindle and nut.

Jeff

Beat me to it. :p I've had to do the same thing.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/th_IMG_3385_zpsztw8rst5.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3385_zpsztw8rst5.jpg.html)

[P100DHG]

Okay this is good stuff. This is all going in my build thread hopefully this helps someone.

[P100DHG]

Well okay got all that other stuff sorted out. Driver side is on the way to complete but I hit a snag. Literally. The passenger side hub won’t go on the spindle. The driver side went on without an taps but the passenger side went about a 1/2” on and won’t go any further. A light tap does nothing. Miraculously after 30 min of coherencing I got it off looks unharmed and the spindle looks fine. Now what....

102438

102440

[edwardb]

Well okay got all that other stuff sorted out. Driver side is on the way to complete but I hit a snag. Literally. The passenger side hub won’t go on the spindle. The driver side went on without an taps but the passenger side went about a 1/2” on and won’t go any further. A light tap does nothing. Miraculously after 30 min of coherencing I got it off looks unharmed and the spindle looks fine. Now what....

Hasn't happened to me, but others have reported similar. Take a strip of emery cloth and polish all around the spindle. That should do it. It may slide on with some resistance. But in my experience shouldn't require extreme force.

[P100DHG]

Hasn't happened to me, but others have reported similar. Take a strip of emery cloth and polish all around the spindle. That should do it. It may slide on with some resistance. But in my experience shouldn't require extreme force.

Paul I know I’ve said it in the past but I’ll say it again. THANK YOU! You’re the best I appreciate your help. I’ll grab some tomorrow and give it a try in the evening

[P100DHG]

So I am mounting the IRS differential. I’ve got the two rear bolts in and the front passenger bolt in. The front driver side bolt is not lining up. It’s 1mm off to one side. Jacking it up gets me to that point but after that the whole car begins to rise up. I’m puzzled 1mm makes a whole lot of difference... now what? I tried removing the rear driver side bolt, so it would hinge on the passenger side and lining up the front bolt and it just placed both out of alignment. So I place the rear bolt back and I’m 75% complete and 25% stuck. I don’t want to make any holes bigger the other bolts went in very easily

BTW how can something be so frustrating and so fun at the same time? It’s nice to have some hurdles though cause otherwise it’s would just be too easy.

102693

[edwardb]

Installing that IRS diff has lots of interesting discussions and results. I had one of the very first of the new IRS design with my 20th Anniversary Roadster. I really fought with it but finally got it. My Coupe build was a little easier (maybe it was just the experience) but many have reported they go in with little/no issue. So whether the diff is changed from Ford, or Factory Five adjusted things a little, seems better than it was. Yours actually is pretty close and shouldn't be too hard to close out. I'll share what worked for me. First, get the two rear ones threaded in but not tight. Since the rear cover is threaded, you want those in place first. Then install the front bolts. I ended up making some tapered pins by grinding some bolts on my stationery disk sander. They helped to line things up and made the assembly go together pretty easily. I've recommended the same thing a number of times, and other builds have reported this did the trick. There are other methods, but this worked for me. Details and pictures in my build thread here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=209902&viewfull=1#post209902. Good luck.

[David Williamson]

Yea the IRS system took a little filing, grinding and messing around. Have you tried everything loose and putting the bolts in a different order yet? By loose I mean just through the first tab not threaded in yet.
You will likely have to open up some of the tabs to get the "A" arms in as well, I used threaded rod, washers and nuts to open them up.
David W

[P100DHG]

just hearing from you guys, "this is normal" or "other people have this issue" has been great because sometimes when your working on you own it's can feel like you've gotta be the first. I recruited my father-in-law and we used the roll bar and wrapped a strap around the ear and ratcheted it up and hammed it the bolt home. It was hard to be in two places at once so the extra set of hands was great!. Everything is in and torqued down. SUCCESS!

[David Williamson]

success always feels good.
David W

[Seanjet]

102911Hey, I saw your post for the first time today. I have a gen 1 type 65. I put a stroked 351W in mine too. (With a high rise) It was a pain to make it fit under the hood, but I did it. Did a lot of cutting on my air cleaner.

[P100DHG]

I guess 1 out of 6 is better than none but my drive shaft adapter is off... what’s the trick here? I tried installing it against the center section, I tried installing it at a screws length (can’t think of another way to say it...) doesn’t align.

103941

Any suggestions would be great

[edwardb]

I guess 1 out of 6 is better than none but my drive shaft adapter is off... what’s the trick here? I tried installing it against the center section, I tried installing it at a screws length (can’t think of another way to say it...) doesn’t align.

103941

Any suggestions would be great

Looks like you have the wrong adapter. There are differences depending on your particular center section. An unfortunately common problem. Call Factory Five. They should fix you up.

[David Williamson]

and also check the drive shaft is correct. There are several bolt patterns, lengths and splines for different combinations of drivetrain. Also the lengths of the bolts that attach the drive shaft to the adaptor plate depend on if you have a drive shaft with a steel or aluminum flange
I had 3 or 4 before I got the correct one, including one that had the wong part number on it.
David W

[P100DHG]

Okay I'm stumped. The two master cylinders are threaded equally into both clevis' after cutting 5/8" off each per the instructions. Here is where things sit.

NO PEDAL PRESSURE
104573

MODERATE PEDAL PRESSURE
104574


When I apply the brake the balance bar heavily favors the right master cylinder. It is only till the pedal is more than halfway depressed that it starts to depress the left master cylinder. My questions are:

1. By threading in one master cylinder to the clevis and by threading one out what does this do?
1a. I am having a hard time getting my fingers in to adjust it any special ideas?

2. The gold threaded rod/ balance bar whats the trick to adjusting that so the rods are perfectly aligned? Mine are really close but 1mm will get it dialed in perfectly

3. My over all question is how do I get the system to apply the correct amount of pressure to both master cylinders?

4. Is the factory five diagram correct showing, no pressure, moderate pressure and heavy pressure accurate?


Any pictures would be super helpful as I am a very visual person. Anyway thanks again guys!

[edwardb]

Assemble it like the instructions show, with the balance bar pivot centered, the pushrods at equal length, and the proper spacing on each side. Then wait until you have fluid in the system and bled. Without pressure in the system what you're seeing isn't very meaningful.

[P100DHG]

To grease the rear zerk fitting on the front lower control arm do you guys recommend a right angle adapter? I can’t get my grease gun in there?

[Tuftster]

I swapped the straight zerk fittings to 90 deg fittings.

[P100DHG]

I swapped the straight zerk fittings to 90 deg fittings.

I bought 1/4 28 zerk fitting from harbor freight. They seem too small. Do you know if it's metric?

[Tuftster]

Sorry, I can't remember. I bought an assortment from the local parts store as I didn't know either and just returned what I didn't use. I know I had bought both metric and standard, just not sure which I ended up using.

[P100DHG]

Storing the body....

The body seems ridged but I want to avoid any warping. My plan was to place it on the rockers on a wood dolly. Do I need to build an A frame and support it from the roof?

Need help

[edwardb]

Storing the body....

The body seems ridged but I want to avoid any warping. My plan was to place it on the rockers on a wood dolly. Do I need to build an A frame and support it from the roof?

Need help

I stored mine for about a year sitting only on the outer rockers plus some 2x4's under the rear to hold it flat. Was in my covered trailer outside most of the time, then inside the garage for a few weeks before installing. It's installed on the chassis now and seems fine. It had only marginally less support than it does once finished and installed. The roof just floats on the finished car, so seems it should handle being stored that way.

[P100DHG]

I am plumbing my fuel system and brake system. I am starting with my fuel system. My question is the lines that came with the kit at 5/16" supply and 1/4" return. Do I need a 3/8" supply for fuel injection and larger return 5/16" for return

[edwardb]

You'll get a bunch of opinions on this one. But there's a lot more to the question IMO. First, engine. You mentioned Roush 427, then Coyote, but your sig line still says Roush 427. Probably 100 HP difference if you're talking Gen 2 Coyote. Closer if a Gen 3. But my main advice is look at the entire fuel system, not just the supply and return lines. Everything should be compatible. Starting with the engine and what HP you are supporting, the intended use for the car (street vs. track), then what fuel pump requirements (typically stated as gallons or liters per hour at a specific PSI), then use lines and a fuel pump hanger (important) that matches. I will add that if you're installing a Gen 2 Coyote with a 190L/hr pump, the 5/16 supply and 1/4 quarter return will work. Many have used them. But IMO a little on the marginal side. I've chosen to go bigger on my builds. Properly installed larger lines (e.g. with matching/compatible parts) don't hurt anything and shouldn't ever be a limiter. Too small, on the other hand, is not easily overcome. Again, that's my take. There will be others.

[P100DHG]

You'll get a bunch of opinions on this one. But there's a lot more to the question IMO. First, engine. You mentioned Roush 427, then Coyote, but your sig line still says Roush 427. Probably 100 HP difference if you're talking Gen 2 Coyote. Closer if a Gen 3. But my main advice is look at the entire fuel system, not just the supply and return lines. Everything should be compatible. Starting with the engine and what HP you are supporting, the intended use for the car (street vs. track), then what fuel pump requirements (typically stated as gallons or liters per hour at a specific PSI), then use lines and a fuel pump hanger (important) that matches. I will add that if you're installing a Gen 2 Coyote with a 190L/hr pump, the 5/16 supply and 1/4 quarter return will work. Many have used them. But IMO a little on the marginal side. I've chosen to go bigger on my builds. Properly installed larger lines (e.g. with matching/compatible parts) don't hurt anything and shouldn't ever be a limiter. Too small, on the other hand, is not easily overcome. Again, that's my take. There will be others.

Your post tipped me over the edge from trying to make the supplied parts work to just doing it the “right” way. I put right in quotes because it’s just my idea of what is right but it should turn out pretty slick. Thanks for the help.

Side note I dumped the coyote because my brother ruined it for with one comment so I went with the Roush small block Ford engine which was what I wanted when I ordered the car but got scared by the task of configuring it but that issue got solved with hours and hour of research. (Hopefully it fits and clears the hood but I’m feeling positive about it)

[P100DHG]

Does the brake fluid reservoir need to be higher than the master cylinders?

[edwardb]

Does the brake fluid reservoir need to be higher than the master cylinders?

Interesting question especially based on the directions in the manual that say "Keep the reservoir high enough so that the lid is higher than master cylinder." I trust this would work, but I prefer to have the outlets of the reservoir(s) the same height or slightly above the inlets to the master cylinders. Plenty of room under the Coupe cowl to position the reservoir(s) that way.

[P100DHG]

"I trust this would work, but I prefer to have the outlets of the reservoir(s) the same height or slightly above the inlets to the master cylinders. Plenty of room under the Coupe cowl to position the reservoir(s) that way.

I interpreted the manual very literally and went just slightly above. What I meant to ask is any particular recommendation on height so thank you. Poorly worded question. Thanks for the advice.

[P100DHG]

Having a memory lapse. I can’t remember how I installed my master cylinders. How do I identify which is 3/4 and which is 5/8? Which of the two goes to the front brakes and which to the back.? This is what I get for starting and stopping (not exactly ideal but necessary in my case). Can’t remember... help! Thanks

[Tree]

You should be able to see the size marked in the side of the master cylinders. You may want to take a picture of the side of each in order to see the markings if you already have them mounted. If I remember right, you can't get a good look at the markings from above.

[edwardb]

You should see the markings cast on the side of the master cylinders. .75 on one and .625 on the other. But I've also heard Factory Five is using the same (.75) on the front and back on more recently shipped kits. Maybe yours aren't different. If they are, the smaller .625 is the rear one.

[P100DHG]

Thanks guys. The marking is in the casting on the passenger side. Impossible to see without a mirror. But I just pressed my finger into it and it embossed the digits into my finger. Success! Thank you!

[P100DHG]

I’ve got a couple nights of work to finish drilling my under-hood panels and make some new ones but I like to be forward thinking. My next options after my panels are finished and mounted are electrical or drop the engine in. I don’t know where the starter will land, how much cable length I’ll need for other stuff, so I’m not sure we’re to go with this. I also want to relocate my battery to the rear of the car. What do you guys think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[edwardb]

I also want to relocate my battery to the rear of the car. What do you guys think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Why? The factory front location is basically free space. From there the cable runs are short. Given the frame design, like the fuel and brake lines, if in the back the battery cable would have to come through the transmission tunnel which is already a bit congested. Not sure where you'd locate it in the back anyway. And FWIW, one of the very common mods for the Roadster is moving the battery to the front.

[P100DHG]

Why? The factory front location is basically free space. From there the cable runs are short. Given the frame design, like the fuel and brake lines, if in the back the battery cable would have to come through the transmission tunnel which is already a bit congested. Not sure where you'd locate it in the back anyway. And FWIW, one of the very common mods for the Roadster is moving the battery to the front.

I know what you mean by free space. There is quite a bit up there, I would like to keep that area free for a few reasons. First is looks, I want my engine compartment free of clutter. I say that now but pulling that off is going to be very difficult with power steering and AC. But so far I've got almost everything concealed behind my panels I am making That’s my plan. It should look like a show car when I pop the hood and perform like a race car. The SBF takes up considerably less space than a coyote so that area will be very easy to see. So visually moving it to the back is favorable. Second is I want that airflow from that area to be free. The panels I made are going to block airflow and circulation so, I need to improve it. Lastly, The more weight I get to the rear wheels the more chance I have a 50/50 weight distribution.

I am just wondering if it’s best to setup the electrical and leave my wires long or it’s best to set my engine in and wire everything up afterwards.

[David Williamson]

The front battery mount location is fairly hidden down low behind the rad aluminum back wall. The hood only opens to about 30 degrees so the sight line to the engine is from the back. With IRS not sure where you can put the battery in the back that it would be out of sight. I have not scaled the Coupe but my Mkll is 46/54% front to back with a full gas tank and I guess the Coupe is similar. I had the engine in when I did the wiring. Some guys have put hood vents in to reduce under hood temperature, so far I have not had any temperature issues.
David W

[P100DHG]

For the pipe thread fittings that go into the back of the wilwood calipers and bottom of the reservoirs, I did not put sealant on them but i am reconsidering that decision before bleeding my brakes. I am getting a lot of misinformation. Wilwood said use Teflon tape, uhh.... FFR said loctite 567... and FFCars people are saying use nothing... any advice?

I bought this to have in hand
117578

[edwardb]

For the pipe thread fittings that go into the back of the wilwood calipers and bottom of the reservoirs, I did not put sealant on them but i am reconsidering that decision before bleeding my brakes. I am getting a lot of misinformation. Wilwood said use Teflon tape, uhh.... FFR said loctite 567... and FFCars people are saying use nothing... any advice?

I bought this to have in hand
117578

Start by putting the Teflon tape back in your tool box and save for home plumbing. Many, including me, don't recommend it for anything on your car build. Most especially anything related to the brakes. Technically, pipe thread fittings don't need sealant. The tapered threads are intended to provide the seal when properly tightened. Personally, I've still always used some sealant. Lubes the thread to help them seat properly, gives a little extra insurance, and if applied properly doesn't hurt a thing. I've used the Loctite 567. What I happen to have on hand right now, and used on my Coupe build, is Permatex 59214. Same as you pictured. There are others that would also be suitable. Those just happen to be the ones I've used.

[P100DHG]

Start by putting the Teflon tape back in your tool box and save for home plumbing. Many, including me, don't recommend it for anything on your car build. Most especially anything related to the brakes. Technically, pipe thread fittings don't need sealant. The tapered threads are intended to provide the seal when properly tightened. Personally, I've still always used some sealant. Lubes the thread to help them seat properly, gives a little extra insurance, and if applied properly doesn't hurt a thing. I've used the Loctite 567. What I happen to have on hand right now, and used on my Coupe build, is Permatex 59214. Same as you pictured. There are others that would also be suitable. Those just happen to be the ones I've used.

Yeah when wilwood said Teflon tape I was like that can’t be. Okay glad I got the right stuff. Everyone did say no sealant needed so... I’ll find out my fittings are very tight so I’ll report back if I have leaks or not. If so I’ll use some sealant and get back at it.

[edwardb]

...I’ll find out my fittings are very tight so I’ll report back if I have leaks or not. If so I’ll use some sealant and get back at it.

Maybe I wasn't clear in my post. I said I use sealant. I don't wait to find out if they leak. I use it up front to make sure they're seated and give some insurance. Much easier when dry and before you start the bleeding process.

[P100DHG]

Maybe I wasn't clear in my post. I said I use sealant. I don't wait to find out if they leak. I use it up front to make sure they're seated and give some insurance. Much easier when dry and before you start the bleeding process.

Roger that I went back this morning before work and put sealant on all my pipe thread connections. And I would recommend it as well.

[P100DHG]

I put my engine hoist together today. Is the chain installed correctly the directions don’t show how it should be installed....?

117708 117709

[Jeff Kleiner]

I put my engine hoist together today. Is the chain installed correctly the directions don’t show how it should be installed....?



That'll do.

Jeff

[Logan]

That is the correct way to connect the chain to the end of the hoist arm. However, a tip.... get the hook as close as possible to the hoist arm by putting that bolt through a link that is closer to the hook itself. Let the excess chain links hang down next to the hook. I use the first or second link in the chain (from the hook end). This helps you achieve maximum height with the hydraulic ram of the hoist doing the heavy lifting. Also less moment for the engine to swing and/or twist like with the current config.

[P100DHG]

That is the correct way to connect the chain to the end of the hoist arm. However, a tip.... get the hook as close as possible to the hoist arm by putting that bolt through a link that is closer to the hook itself. Let the excess chain links hang down next to the hook. I use the first or second link in the chain (from the hook end). This helps you achieve maximum height with the hydraulic ram of the hoist doing the heavy lifting. Also less moment for the engine to swing and/or twist like with the current config.

Fantastic suggestion I’ll adjust it

[P100DHG]

117924

So pardon my confusion here cause I don’t have my driveshaft at my house. But imagine the drive shaft goes into this hole in the transmission. My hole is like 3/4” deep. I see a rubberized material with a spline pattern and a metal round plate... doesn’t look right to me... how is the driveshaft going to go into that.... I am seeing this all for the first time. Help!

[edwardb]

117924

So pardon my confusion here cause I don’t have my driveshaft at my house. But imagine the drive shaft goes into this hole in the transmission. My hole is like 3/4” deep. I see a rubberized material with a spline pattern and a metal round plate... doesn’t look right to me... how is the driveshaft going to go into that.... I am seeing this all for the first time. Help!

There's a rubber donut in there from the factory. Needs to come out. I've purchased several Tremecs but the dealer always took it out before delivery to me. So I don't have personal experience. But have seen others talk about it. Apparently reach in there with needle nose pliers or whatever and pull it out. I've also heard it can be left in and pushed forward with your driveshaft. But don't quote me on that. There is another seal, the one with the rubber seal that extends out the back and goes around the outside of the slip yoke, that does stay in place.

[P100DHG]

I’m working on plumber and right now I’m working toward getting my AC and heater hoses plumbed behind the dash. I have read that when I crimp them they will shrink or stretch I can’t remember. I don’t want to have issues with them being too short or long... I can see a little hole in the crimp fitting so I can tell it’s touching but I cut mine to the exact length, I can always recut them. I have not crimped them. My question is 3 part.

118608

1. does this look okay or should I cut my hoses longer in anticipation of shrinkage or shorter in anticipation of them stretching a little.

2. I bought the master cool AC hose crimped from Amazon. Has several different sizes. 8,10.... what size are the fittings here?

3. I have seen on TV that one should oil the O rings. What type of oil are they using?

Thanks

[edwardb]

I’m working on plumber and right now I’m working toward getting my AC and heater hoses plumbed behind the dash. I have read that when I crimp them they will shrink or stretch I can’t remember. I don’t want to have issues with them being too short or long... I can see a little hole in the crimp fitting so I can tell it’s touching but I cut mine to the exact length, I can always recut them. I have not crimped them. My question is 3 part.

118608

1. does this look okay or should I cut my hoses longer in anticipation of shrinkage or shorter in anticipation of them stretching a little.

2. I bought the master cool AC hose crimped from Amazon. Has several different sizes. 8,10.... what size are the fittings here?

3. I have seen on TV that one should oil the O rings. What type of oil are they using?

Thanks

1. Those two short hoses are probably the hardest part of the installation, to be honest. The length on each has to be just right or it will be difficult/impossible to get together. To be honest, I don't remember if the hoses got shorter or longer when crimped. But what I can confirm is they definitely change, and if you don't take that into account you'll have trouble. Also the larger hose changes length different than the smaller one. My A-C kit came with a whole bag of extra fittings, and plenty of hose. So I practiced with fittings I didn't need. Helped to get used to the Mastercool crimper (easy) and to measure before and after with a micrometer and then took that into account when cutting the hoses. I recall it was around 1/8-inch, but don't quote me on that and check each hose size.

2. You'll use the #6 and #8 dies. Again, suggest practice as mentioned in #1.

3. The Factory Five kit includes a small white tube of compressor oil, and the Factory Five instructions show using that to lube the o-rings during assembly.

[P100DHG]

Very helpful Thanks Paul. One day I hope to shake your hand in person and thank you personally for all your wisdom, help and patience. Invaluable thank you sir.

My little white bottle came completely empty that must have been my confusion... I'll have to call vintage air.

I searched around and found the answer. It gets longer. I Found it in Jdavis500’s thread. So I’ll crimp one side then check for fit before I crimp the other side. Also thanks to Jdavis500 for this post.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27264-Jdavis500-Gen-3-Coupe-Build-Thread&p=341829&viewfull=1#post341829

[P100DHG]

Is there a way to get a horn button to work? I am trying to think of how it could be wired without seeing wires tied to the steering wheel. I am using the Ross Thompson turn signal however I would like a traditional horn button.

[P100DHG]

I am mocking up the wiring harness in my car. I am trying to run all wires down low to avoid seeing them. The wire to my alternator isn't long enough to snake its way around the engine and up to the alternator (if I run it high it is long enough but looks unsightly. Is there a quick way to identify a wire's gauge so I can order more. The wires don't seem to be labeled with their sizes on the sheath. FFR is closed understandably so, so any help would be great.

[edwardb]

I am mocking up the wiring harness in my car. I am trying to run all wires down low to avoid seeing them. The wire to my alternator isn't long enough to snake its way around the engine and up to the alternator (if I run it high it is long enough but looks unsightly. Is there a quick way to identify a wire's gauge so I can order more. The wires don't seem to be labeled with their sizes on the sheath. FFR is closed understandably so, so any help would be great.

According to my records and previous measuring, the alternator wires in the Ron Francis harness are 8 gauge. I've seen some argue it's not heavy enough. But I've used it (as have many others) without issue. I don't know any easy ways to identify wire gauges, unless it's in a package and then I read the label (:p) but I've used this from DelCity.net website multiple times. You count the leads and measure one of them with a good micrometer.

Gauge = Conductor Stranding
20 Gauge = 7/0.0126
(7 strands that measure .0126 each)
18 Gauge = 16/0.010
16 Gauge = 19/0.0112
14 Gauge = 19/0.0140
12 Gauge = 19/0.0177
10 Gauge = 19/0.0223
8 Gauge = 19/0.0281

[P100DHG]

According to my records and previous measuring, the alternator wires in the Ron Francis harness are 8 gauge. I've seen some argue it's not heavy enough. But I've used it (as have many others) without issue. I don't know any easy ways to identify wire gauges, unless it's in a package and then I read the label (:p) but I've used this from DelCity.net website multiple times. You count the leads and measure one of them with a good micrometer.

Gauge = Conductor Stranding
20 Gauge = 7/0.0126
(7 strands that measure .0126 each)
18 Gauge = 16/0.010
16 Gauge = 19/0.0112
14 Gauge = 19/0.0140
12 Gauge = 19/0.0177
10 Gauge = 19/0.0223
8 Gauge = 19/0.0281

Wow that's an impressive and really important table! Always appreciated. Glad to see you are still watching over me despite being done with your build! Guardian angel 0:-)

Thank you!

[Automan]

Wow that's an impressive and really important table! Always appreciated. Glad to see you are still watching over me despite being done with your build! Guardian angel 0:-)

Thank you!

Very Well Said. He is watching over all of our builds. So much appreciated Paul

thankyou
Nelson

[edwardb]

Wow that's an impressive and really important table! Always appreciated. Glad to see you are still watching over me despite being done with your build! Guardian angel 0:-)

Thank you!


Very Well Said. He is watching over all of our builds. So much appreciated Paul

thankyou
Nelson

Thanks guys. I'm enjoying watching your builds and happy to share what I've learned during mine. If it helps. :o

[P100DHG]

What do you guys think of a belly pan. It would give a nice finished appearance from underneath. This is the last thing I’d do on my build and I’d need a lift to do it. Probably would require a transmission cooler? That might make it not worth the effort. Thoughts?

[q4stix]

I'm planning to do one on mine. I'll add a few NACA ducts to help with cooling and then have a way to vent near the rear.

[P100DHG]

I need help designing a full EVAP system. I just hate the smell of gasoline. My garage stinks. I bought a bronco charcoal canister and hooked it up to the vent and it helped for 10 days I didn’t smell gas at all. But now that the canister is saturated it’s smells again. Not as bad but it smells. I have absolutely no leaks. I duct taped the filler neck and I can smell it coming from there If I put my nose up to it so that could be it but I am thinking I want an EVAP system so it eliminates the smell completely. Because it was gone for 10 days when the charcoal filter was new. Can you guys help?

This is what I bought

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7ZA5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a smaller quarter-inch line plugged the vent plumbed into the 5/16 port on the canister which I think is really 3/8 but it fit over it barely and the two larger ports open to the outside air

Other fixes welcome to

[Erik W. Treves]

I am wondering if your tune is off? Have you checked to see how rich your idle is?

[P100DHG]

I am wondering if your tune is off? Have you checked to see how rich your idle is?

Well yes because I ran the car without the O2 sensor is this my problem? So it was rich for sure

[Erik W. Treves]

I am trying to remember your induction setup - If you are running EFI without the O2's then , yes this is a problem. If you are not running EFI and running carb and haven't tuned the IDLE and are rich or super lean you will get that fuel stink smell in the garage... sometimes it can be really bad. If you have extra fuel going into the manifold it can pool in the intake and/ exhaust... then when you shut the car off the car will continue to out gas hours later.... ever spill a little gas on the floor and have to open windows to get the stink out? The same thing can actually happen if you are too lean - you can get lean misfire causing unspent fuel in the exhaust... I have found, a really complete idle will have water vapor at times coming from the pipes.

[P100DHG]

Problem solved. I installed the filler neck and gas cap and the odor is gone. I guess putting duct tape over the filler neck just isn’t the same. I feel kind of dumb. So learn from my dumbness once again. Lol. As of posting this I don’t think a full EVAP system is necessary. Just a charcoal filter will do. But time will tell

[P100DHG]

2 questions

Before I cut anything I need some advice on my fuel filler neck....

132338

This doesn’t seem right. I could use some advise before I make a mistake cutting too much or the wrong side or something


2. Reverse light recommendations? FFR confirmed no matching reverse light but I need something for safety. I am opting out of a third brake light but I think it’s important people know what direction a car is going in a parking lot.

[edwardb]

1. I can't tell exactly what your picture is showing. I cut and installed mine exactly like the manual showed. Final looked like page 485 in my manual. The one minor issue I had with mine was the cutout in the hatch side aluminum contacted the bottom of the rubber tube attached to the cap. I extended the cutout down so they weren't touching. That was enough that the cover for the inside now also had to be lowered. So added some pieces around the top of the cover to it sealed against the inside of the body.

2. Your TKO has a reverse light switch. Normally open, but closed when in reverse. The T-56 in mine is exactly the same. I added a power wire to the rear harness for the backup lights. Used the radio circuit since I don't have a radio. It's an ignition circuit so only powered with the key on. Normal for backup lights. The added wiring goes through the switch in the trans and back to the positive side of the light(s). Wired the ground(s) to the chassis at the back. Reverse closes the circuit and lights the lights. Pretty simple.

[P100DHG]

1. I can't tell exactly what your picture is showing. I cut and installed mine exactly like the manual showed. Final looked like page 485 in my manual. The one minor issue I had with mine was the cutout in the hatch side aluminum contacted the bottom of the rubber tube attached to the cap. I extended the cutout down so they weren't touching. That was enough that the cover for the inside now also had to be lowered. So added some pieces around the top of the cover to it sealed against the inside of the body.

2. Your TKO has a reverse light switch. Normally open, but closed when in reverse. The T-56 in mine is exactly the same. I added a power wire to the rear harness for the backup lights. Used the radio circuit since I don't have a radio. It's an ignition circuit so only powered with the key on. Normal for backup lights. The added wiring goes through the switch in the trans and back to the positive side of the light(s). Wired the ground(s) to the chassis at the back. Reverse closes the circuit and lights the lights. Pretty simple.

1. Okay I looked for like an hour for that and somehow I miss it... so sad and embarrassing. Many thanks for pointing that out. Also just to add to my embarrassment it took me more time to look for, email FFR, post on the forum after not understanding the email then it did to do, which took 5 minutes... argh.

2. Sorry I wasn’t clear I was wondering if there was a particular part you guys like as a backup light/lamp

[edwardb]

1. Okay I looked for like an hour for that and somehow I miss it... so sad and embarrassing. Many thanks for pointing that out. Also just to add to my embarrassment it took me more time to look for, email FFR, post on the forum after not understanding the email then it did to do, which took 5 minutes... argh.

2. Sorry I wasn’t clear I was wondering if there was a particular part you guys like as a backup light/lamp

Yeah, the filler tube instructions are spread around in several places. Glad you got it worked out. For the backup lights, I used these: https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/6-led-interior-and-marker-lights/. They're Maxxima brand (decent) but don't know the part number. https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8?t=19. Lots of other choices. I don't know that there's any particular one. Just whatever the build chooses.

[P100DHG]

Yeah, the filler tube instructions are spread around in several places. Glad you got it worked out. For the backup lights, I used these: https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/6-led-interior-and-marker-lights/. They're Maxxima brand (decent) but don't know the part number. https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8?t=19. Lots of other choices. I don't know that there's any particular one. Just whatever the build chooses.

I am going to try these from eBay - click here for eBay listing (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-12V-White-24-LED-Round-Reverse-Backup-Tail-Trailer-Truck-Indicator-Light/184183809032?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.S EED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dc8208 d4049bd49afa7b6c28423ddc5d0%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D 2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D202881448318%26 itm%3D184183809032%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380 057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A9cfceaf6-ce39-11ea-9abe-74dbd1804fe5%7Cparentrq%3A847e65f41730ad4a6baf73f9 fff9c584%7Ciid%3A1)

It took me hours to find them I just got lucky I had given up and then just stumbled on them. I can’t replicate the search without the exact title in eBay (Google doesn’t bring them up) so my suggestion is just click the link above if you want to take the plunge. If they are good I’ll let people know. I don’t have the FFR lights at home but these are so cheap I thought I’d pull the trigger and assume the size was similar enough. I did measure off the template in the manual and they are close. The number of wires slightly concerns me that they will light up red... but it says back up light in the title so I’m hoping they are white. I’ll report back.

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[P100DHG]

Update FFR rear lights are 3” so these are slightly smaller but I think they might be passable and certainly safe at this price if it doesn’t work out

[P100DHG]

Seller got back to me the lenses are clear and the lights are white. I'll know in a month when they get here but, if you can't wait $10 is worth the risk I'd say. They could also look and work like trash so let's see.

[P100DHG]

Any good suggestions for a cup holder? I might be completely delirious thinking I’d be able to drink a latte and drive this car but I’m curious what people have used.

[P100DHG]

I have a question regarding the headliner. Can this be installed after the body is put on the car? My upholstery guy is telling me it can’t be done. Roll bar will prevent a well executed job. I just saw it done on Motortrend so I’m somewhat doubting him.

He proposes I take the painted body, load it into a uHaul, bring it to him, let him do it then bring it back to the painter to have it fitted on the car. I’m like are you kidding me what a massive pain in the *** and at the risk of screwing up the paint. I told him to go down to Jeff’s but he won’t drive 90 miles to the body.

I thought about calling a mobile headliner guy and send him to Jeff’s place and just order the matching leather and have it ready for him to install...

Need help with some advice on how to manage this situation. If it can be done after body is installed?

Just to say this situation with the headliner is making me a little nervous not having a clear direction.

[David Williamson]

I put my head liner in with the body off before paint but the taping for the paint did mess up some of the edges. I know some have put it in with the body on but it is not easy to do and get it smooth. My car was painted with the body on.
David W